Reddit reviews Tripp Lite Isobar 4 Outlet Surge Protector Power Strip, 6ft Cord, Right-Angle Plug, Metal, Lifetime Limited Warranty & Dollar 50,000 Insurance (ISOBAR4ULTRA)

I don't know about all that living as long as you but to lengthen the life of your CRT:

• Lower the contrast, if it's too high. That right there is tied to voltage and to how much phosphor activation you intend to "use".
  
  
• Keep it stored and also running in a nominal environment of room temperature 68-72ºF (20ºC) with the lowest humidity you can.
  
  
• Don't bring it in from the cold into a warm place or high humidity and then turn it on quickly. That accumulated moisture from either place will damage something or at least cause weird issues.
  
  
• Keep the screen face itself out of direct sunlight. Yes it does affect the phosphors.
  
  
• Keep the CRT itself out direct sunlight. Yes sunlight may get through vents and overtime can degrade things. Also unnecessary heat added if you have it running.
  
  
• I keep my CRT unplugged when I am done. Quality of power filtering, nature, and power companies sucking ass makes it a worthwhile thing to do.
  
  
• You still want to keep it plugged in huh? Get a Tripp-Lite Isobar or better. Don't daisy chain strips also be wary of cheap crap.
  
  
• If you are going to store it for a while, make sure to power it up every 2 months. Caps don't like sitting with stored energy as it shortens their life, especially the ones near the power section and the deflection circuit that get the most workout.
  
  
• Reminds me if your CRT is worth it, get the boards recapped and do a safe static-free dust removal a la can of compressed air. That will markedly extend the life of the whole CRT assembly.
  
  But really, otherwise, the less time a tube is on, the longer it will last.

> "clean up" the line and remove the noise. If you look around you also might be able to find a power strip that does this without the battery cost

Here are a couple of power line conditioners, without battery backup, that would help:

• APC ,
  
  
• Tripp Lite

When I was first trying to get it to work, Radioshack was trying to get me to pick up two battery packs which held 4 AA's each. I didn't want to deal with that so I found a charger online and hardwired it into the LEDs with a small switch.
Here's the charger I used

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KZ2ZQE8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1I mounted a

I also picked up a heavy duty mountable surge protector that I mounted on the back so I would have a convenient place to plug in the fan, freezer and LEDs. This is what I picked up for that one.

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000513O4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This BIGGEST thing to remember is to make sure the volts and amps are enough in the plug in you are using. My LEDS need 12v and 2 amps. As far as I know, it's ok to have more amps than you need, but don't go over on volts

For 300 bucks personally I would go with decent Powered speakers. Make sure you pick up a phono preamp as well if you go this route as opposed to using an amp+passive speakers (which is much more expensive, unless you go used). That's the setup I did, minimalist, clean, decent value, but still relatively cheap. Here's my setup for example...

https://www.amazon.com/rolls-VP29-Phono-Preamp/dp/B0002BG2R2 - Rolls VP29 Phono Preamp

https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-R1700BT-Bluetooth-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B016PATXSI - Edifier R1700BT Powered Speakers with Bluetooth - For the value these sound really awesome. Only downside is there are not great with lots of bass, they flubber. In retrospect I might have gotten something different, but most stuff I listen to isn't bass heavy so I'm not torn over it. I also wanted bluetooth in this room because it's a guest room.

https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Ject-Elemental-Gray-Turntable-Grey/dp/B01CZW826Y?th=1 - Pro-Ject Elemental Turntable - Great value turntable on the low-end if you buy new.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000513O4/ - Tripp Lite Isobar surge protector - Because I'm paranoid about this stuff and these are high end surge protectors that we use at work. They are bulletproof.

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So anyways... for 300 bucks you can pick up the same phono preamp and these...

https://www.amazon.com/Edifier-R2000DB-Bluetooth-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B01CDU3IAI

I hear the R2000's don't have the same bass issue that the r1700 does, but they cost a lot more. Edifier is kind of one of the best in value right now, it's "Chi-Fi" good. The hardcore audiophile kiddos are often brand-whores, so take their allegiance with a grain of salt and try to remain objective, read reviews, technical analysis, etc..

https://www.amazon.com/Audioengine-A2-Powered-Speaker-System/

The A2's always get good reviews in this price range, I have no personal experience, but there are recent reviews that show problems with quality control, maybe the company is getting worse?

https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-2017-R-14PM-Powered-Monitor/dp/B075JRF295

A lot of people swear by the Klipsch powered monitors once you get into this price range, but I don't have any personal experience, maybe someone else can chime in, just showing it here because you might want to consider it, read about them more.

https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-Signature-S20-Bookshelf/dp/B01LVWWXQG

These are just barely in the price range, definitely consider them, my friend has a Polk setup and he loves it. These seem to get good reviews from hip hop heads too, so the bass response must be good.

It really depend on your musical taste, the room, what kind of setup you are wanting to go with overall and for what purpose though. If you want to be able to handle everything, up the budget, or buy used honestly. If you stay on a small budget and buy new, you are going to have to have compromises. I was wiling to have that compromise, but others may not.

I actually had everything plugged into one of the Tripp-Lite Isobar Surge Suppressors, so perhaps I should take my claim up through them. I've read that those types of surge suppressors aren't really that effective, but it looks like they have a lifetime warranty, so it might be worth checking out.

I agree with your rational regarding upgrading my MB. I'll see if I can't find a test bench somewhere to swap in my hardware and make sure everything is working as expected.

Ferrite core is a good place to start. Also if you can find a decent price on a Tripp-Lite Isobar power strip, these have EMI filters in 'em. Put one between the router and the wall. Put another between the HMW and the wall. And of course, put the HMW and the router on separate outlets, separate circuits if possible.

However, it might not actually be the wireless suffering here. I mean, 20 feet is a pretty short hop, it should make that even with a ton of interference. It might be the cable or DSL that serves the modem -- that circuit runs miles back to the provider, and might have a narrower signal margin. In that case, an Isobar between the HMW and the wall will definitely help, and to go beyond that, you'll want to talk to someone who has a clue about radio and have 'em check out your cable or DSL line.

(What they're looking for in cable: Bad or broken shield, loose connectors, ground loop between modem and entry grounding/bonding point. What they're looking for in DSL: Pair untwist at the demarc or jack, untwisted "b-wire" serving the modem, untwisted satin cord between the jack and modem itself, no splitter/filter between the DSL leg and the POTS leg.)