Reddit reviews Yaatao 6 Pieces Mini Brass Wire Brush Set for Cleaning Welding Slag and Rust

I've discovered that for light smoothing and removing of strings, a small brass wire brush works amazingly -- those cheap disposable ones.

The brass is soft enough so that it doesn't scratch the surface, but will actually gently polish it smooth.

I use [these] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XWFM1HJ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_OYE.AbP0JQ8X9) brushes for cleaning filament off of the extruder because you will inevitably have prints that leave filament all over the hotend. [These] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00VB1U886/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1526590824&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=3d+print+removal+tool&dpPl=1&dpID=31vIt7tpDfL&ref=plSrch) are really cheap and good for removing prints from the bed. One of them should last you several months. You’ll also eventually need to clear out a clogged nozzle so some [nozzle cleaners] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B072JJ7H5P/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526590910&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=3d+printer+nozzle+cleaner) will come in handy.

Get a small brass brush, like this or this

A few thoughts:

• Calibration:
  
  • Recalibrate every time you move the printer.
    
  • Live adjust Z is the key for good first layers! Setting this right fixes most print problems.
    
  • There is no "correct" live adjust value since everybody's PINDA probe is mounted at a slightly different height.
    
  • Go higher (50-100um) for PETG.
    
• Adhesion:
  
  • The official guide is good, but tl;dr:
    
  • PEI is a great bed material but still use glue stick for general printing.
    
  • To clean the sheet of glue, soak it in plain water, then wipe with a paper towel, then wipe with isopropyl alcohol (91% or higher).
    
  • Acetone only occasionally. I've used it maybe twice in a year and think it's unnecessary.
    
  • Windex for PETG works great.
    
  • Let PETG prints cool before removing.
    
• Tools:
  
  • Check the edge of the scraper that comes with the printer: mine had a burr that scratched up my bed.
    
  • Tools you need that aren't included:
    
    • flush cutters
      
    • Zoo Med straight feeding tongs.
      
    • Brass wire brush for heater block cleaning.
      
• Octoprint:
  
  • It's awesome and SO EASY to setup and use.
    
  • A Pi Zero W works great mounted to the Einsy.
    
    • Long male header pins aren't hard to find.
      
    • Clip some vent dividers in the case.
      
    • You don't need to print any case: it's happy to hang off the pins in mid-air.
      
  • Cheap webcam with OTG adapter is easier to deal with than a Pi camera.
    
  • Set up Samba sharing.
    
  • Set up pause/resume code to change filament when printing.
    
• Also:
  
  • The filament sensor is nice but can give bad readings with some filaments, specifically dark PETG. I turn it off.
    
  • "Stealth" mode is funny to me because the motors are driven so quietly with it turned off. I don't see the point.
    
  • I put a sock on my heater block, saved me a lot of mess.
    
    Lastly: don't doubt the design! I got mine (assembled) mid-December last year and it has worked perfectly. Er... except for a replacement power supply and PINDA probe, but those were easy to diagnose, Prusa sent parts w/no fuss, and replacement was straightforward. You'll get a newer/better version, but it's a solid design to start: don't monkey with it and it will work like a champ.
    
    ​

The mk3 kit comes with all the allen keys necessary, philips and flat head screwdrivers, and needle nose pliers.

I'd suggest some cheap cutters, you'll want them during assembly for the zip ties and after for filament. Brass brushes are handy for cleaning the nozzle.

For cleaning the bed, alcohol and windex from your friendly neighborhood grocery, drug, or big box store. Or the unfriendly store, if you prefer. (Windex for prior to printing PETG; alcohol for PLA)

Eventually, you'll probably want 7mm and 17mm wrenches for changing the nozzle.