Best acoustic & classical guitar turning keys according to redditors

Do the locking tuners upgrade!

Fender Locking Tuners - Polished Chrome https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000L6GD04/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LWW8BbSV95P9V

Fender American Series String Guides https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002E2GMY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uXW8BbY5T66GG

First off, no need to apologize for inexperience. Asking good questions means you are gaining experience.

1. Now-a-days Squier makes a fine guitar, but just get it set up by someone who knows how if you haven't already! A good setup is so important to how any guitar plays. I would rather play your Squier with a good set up than an American fender with a shitty set up. As far as upgrades go I would think about some locking tuners. I think those are just drop in tuners with no drilling needed even for Squier, but I would make sure.
   
   
2. There are a ton of pickup makers out there but you can not go wrong with Seymour Duncan. Just browse around and take a look at their output and EQ charts that show how hot the pickup is and then listen listen listen to sound demos. Pickups are very subjective so youtube is a great tool.
   
   
3. Personally I love Elixir strings! They last a long time, especially if you have sweat like mine that kills strings very fast. That being said a lot of people don't like the feel of Elixir. They don't like the "slippery" feeling of the coating on the wound strings. If you want to stay with coated strings that feel more like traditional string you can check out D'addario EXP strings. Again it's subjective like anything else, so test drive and see what you like.
   
   
4. Oh boy pedals. Pedals can be a slippery slope financially haha. I also think /r/guitarpedals would be able to help you (better than I can at least) there but if you like distortion then I have heard a lot of good things about the Mesa Flux-Drive and the JHS Angry Charlie.
   
   As for your amp I do not have any personal experience with the Vypyr but if you like the sound and it is loud enough for your applications then go with it. Those are really the only things determining if you need a new amp. If you ever want to upgrade to a tube/valve amp I would suggest looking at the Marshall DSL line if you are into heavier tones and want to spend money.
   
   The pedals and amp are really based off what you like to play. If you are not satisfied with your current amp there are A LOT of good combos out there that are more affordable than tube amps. Andertons Music youtube channel just put out a great combo amp round up video you should check out if you want. I hope that all helps!

A solid set of brand-new Fender brand tuners is only going to cost you $15 more...

Even the really nice sets are only going to run you about $60.

It's worth it. Don't cheap out on a component as critical as your tuners.

Fender Locking Tuners. I believe they are Schaller, but made in Taiwan. Fender has some sort of arrangement with Schaller so they can make Schaller locking tuners and strap locks in Asia. The locking tuners for instance are made in Taiwan and they are amazing quality.

Just get new tuners. Cost you $20 at any decent guitar store for ones that look just like it.

Edit: I was wrong. $4.82 and free shipping for ones pretty much identical to what you've got. Just replace the entire thing. Literally ALL you do is take off the strings, remove the little screws that hold the tuner assembly in place (not the ones on the tuners themselves, the ones on the sides). The whole assembly pulls out, put the new one in, screw it in, new strings, bob's your uncle.

Do make sure to measure to get the right ones...but youre not talking more than a couple of dollars.

Wondering if anyone has any experience with this: I'm looking into getting locking tuners for my MiM Telecaster and Strat. I found these: Fender Locking Tuners Chrome https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000L6GD04/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Uwnpyb12ZVPH8

Fender Model#: 099-0818-100 it says "fits most MiM models" Most? How much variance is there? I don't want to shell out $100 per guitar and have them not fit. I mean a tuner is a tuner right? It's just where the holes are drilled. Such an odd wording, and yet it throws me.

https://www.amazon.com/Fender-0990846200-SEALED-MACHINES-BUTTONS/dp/B01M2CVW2E/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=pearl+guitar+tuner+for+strat&qid=1564183752&s=gateway&sr=8-6 here bro

I have not found one on the cheap. I am, however, getting ready to make one. I found some tuning pegs on Amazon and will be making the frame in a week or so.

I have the advantage of having been a carpenter. If I go all wood, It'll be a piece of cake. I also have access to welding equipment, so I can handle the fabrication of the frame if I choose metal.

They are often called "Trapezoid" tuning machines, and they are not well thought-of. I like the idea of hitting-up a local guitar tech who probably has a jar full of used Trapezoids, rather than paying for a new set:

https://www.amazon.com/Chrome-Tuning-Peg-Round220-3L3R-Pieces-Semiclosed-Guitar-Machine/dp/B009AQZM30/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_267_bs_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=AKJ2PDK7AS3TWRHYT0SK

https://www.amazon.com/Andoer-AO-020HV3P-Classical-Guitar-Machine/dp/B011DOUALU/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1504635348&sr=1-3&keywords=classical+guitar+tuning+gold

Those should work for ya. Super easy to install, too. Just remove old strings, unscrew the old ones, discard them, screw in the new ones, and install strings. Easy peasy.

I used the same ones I used with my Strats.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000L6GD04/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a slightly newer version of that same guitar (same color and everything) that I bought brand new as my first electric almost 20 years ago. I still have it and really like it. I wouldn't be in a rush to change anything. Just set it up the way you want, play it, and then figure out what needs to be changed. MIM Strats are nice guitars just the way they came and I kind of wish I left mine mostly stock. I even wish I kept the stock pickups as I now think they sound good; I swapped them out for Lace Sensors about 15 years ago and I was never a big fan of them. I wish I kept the originals. I'll probably eventually pick up a set on ebay.

I did, however, just put Fender locking tuners on mine yesterday. I'm really glad I did it because it makes string changes so much quicker and easier. I didn't have to drill any holes and they fit just fine. However, that's not always the case with those. Take one of your tuners off and look on the back of the headstock. If you have 2 little guide holes, in addition to the hole the actual tuner goes through, you should be fine.

The other little thing I did to mine a few months ago is put on a set of Dunlop strap locks. I used the original screws instead of the ones that came with them. I really like these things and put them on my other guitars as well.

See this video regarding pole piece heights on strat pickups. Darrell Braun's channel has a lot of really good stuff on it including a lot of videos comparing pickups and busting some common myths.

Can you take them off?

Try to put some 3-in-1 oil into them when they are off the guitar. If working that in does not help it might be time to replace them.

Tuning pegs are not that unreasonable. They are even on amazon. The hard part is to find the style you want. Here you want 3 left / 3 right.
Perhaps something like this Neewer 6 Pieces Sliver Acoustic Guitar Machine Heads Knobs Guitar String Tuning Peg Tuner(3 for Left + 3 for Right) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019RJJWI0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vre2CbKM31A9W

Typically, they'll be sold in sets of 6, but some vendors, like stewmac or warmoth do sell them individually. I would just replace the whole set and take the opportunity to upgrade to locking tuners, if I were you. I'm a big fan of this Fender staggered set.

Your main concern will be the ferrule diameter. You want it to match the holes in your headstock, or at least not be bigger than the hole, or else you'll need to drill them bigger. Slightly smaller is not a major issue, particularly with the set I linked to, because of the dual stabilizing pins on the back that make the machine sit quite stable, but do require drilling holes for them on the back of the headstock. Most other tuners have a single stabilizing screw, which may or may not line up with the drilled holes on the back of your headstock. If the tuner(s) you end up with do not line up with the pre-drilled holes for the stabilizing screws, just pre-drill some new ones. Do not screw into your headstock without a pre-drilled hole.

I think the only way to get out of drilling is to buy those graph tech tunersor a similar brand that doesn’t require drilling.

Or try to find F style fender tuners that fit the tuners holes on your guitar. Try eBay or reverb.

Strat all the way for the Chili Peppers.

I'd recommend Squier Classic Vibe since they come with proper AlNiCo Pickups, so it'll sound great, and the main problems are the input jack and gloss neck. The neck is completely subjective, so you might actually dig that, and a new input jack is like $15 max, and it's about as easy as it can get when it comes to soldering. Even if you pay someone to do it for you, you'll still save money over what you would pay for a MIM Strat.

The one that looks the most like John's main Strat is the '60s Classic Vibe

If you have the $600, I'd say put locking tuners on to make string changes eaiser, a new nut for tuning stability and tone on open strings, and a good input jack since Squier's are notorious for their loose input jacks.

Thanks a lot for the reply. In terms of the diameter and height, this is in reference to the holes? I was asking here for the reason. that I don't know of local shops near to me. and would rather just buy some of the internet. ( the last shop I knew of, before it closed seemed like it didn't care about it's customers and just threw any product at you)

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Mine look quite similar. to those. However it looks identical to these.https://www.amazon.com/Vangoa-Semi-closed-Machine-Acoustic-Electric/dp/B077VCQRCK

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the liitle box is shaped slightly difference. I don't know if that will make a difference though.

I can be a bit involved, depending on some details.

If I'm correct, your tuners are basically the same as these:

https://www.amazon.com/Semiclosed-Tuning-Machine-Acoustic-Guitar/dp/B018U24IHA/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_267_lp_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2HKH28GF3VB628PMRWWN&dpID=41bd-jCFNuL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail

The tuners pictured usually have a bushing diameter of 8mm (the bushing is that round piece that is pressed into the hole on the face of the headstock to support the tuner post and cover the hole in the headstock).

Most contemporary tuning-machines require a 9mm or 10mm hole in the headstock. You're probably going to have to be prepared to enlarge your present headstock holes. (and the tiny screw that anchors the tuner will not be in the same location as your originals).

I would suggest that if you want to have a go at enlarging the headstock holes, that you do some research. I'll steer you to this forum post where "Headless" gives one way to do it (note: that on the second page of the forum thread, another member does the procedure and documents it in pics):

http://www.harmonycentral.com/forum/forum/guitar/acapella-41/1275383-

http://www.harmonycentral.com/forum/forum/guitar/acapella-41/1275383-/page2

Pickup

Tuning Pegs

Total the non-printed parts ran about 50 or so, this included: pickup, tuning pegs, bow, rosin, nuts and bolts.

So I think I'm going make a Thinline Tele. Going to build the body and buy a prebuilt neck. What all hardware do I need? Right now I've found:

• Body blank
  
• Tele Bridge
  
• Thinline pickguard
  
• Vintage Reissue pickups
  
• 2 potentiometers
  
• 3 way switch (and tip)
  
• binding
  
• Switchcraft input jack and cup
  
• knobs
  
• neck plate and screws
  
• string ferrules
  
• Telecaster neck
  
• tuners
  
  I guess I should probably get extra wiring? Anything else?

>Unless you're seeing something in the pictures I'm not



Nope. I was just looking at the condition of those tuners and thinking "As cheap as tuners are, I would replace them all." Something like this:



https://www.amazon.com/Classical-Guitar-String-Machine-Quality/dp/B0092X7AOK/ref=sr_1_28?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1496734951&sr=1-28&keywords=guitar+tuning+machines



>This may be a really stupid question, but what would the best way be to clean and polish the metal bits?



I'm not sure what part of the world you're in, but I've found that just stopping in at my local hardware store and asking the guys that work there what products they have, usually gets me good results. Because, you'll want a product that you can dip some of those parts into to remove the corrosion, but for other parts, you'll want something that you can rub on/off with a soft cloth to polish the metal and make it shine again. And, some of those parts (like the socket-head cap screws in the tremelo) you can just buy new replacements for. As for the corrosion on the pickups, I would suggest taking a more cautious and controlled approach, and use a combination of a mild chemical cleaner (again, something from the hardware store) and some high grit sandpaper or scotch-brite pad to remove the corrosion without damaging the pickup.



>Thanks so much for the recommendations



You're very welcome. I'm always willing to help someone out.

This, exactly. I used to install them. They have two stop points, so that you can set two different open notes for each string. They are more commonly installed on banjos but you can also put them on guitars.

The giveaway is the tuners are sticking out of the back of the headstock of the guitar, rather than sideways.

https://www.amazon.com/Schaller-Sealed-Banjo-Tuner-Nickel/dp/B004MN7X2E/e

I just put these (amazon.com) in my American telecaster yesterday. It was a zero modification drop-in and took about 5 minutes. I've heard that mexi strats take the same tuners.

I can confirm that the nut is 10mm. This never happens, but I grabbed a 10mm wrench out of my toolbox randomly without knowing the nut size and it fit perfectly. It was like winning the lottery.

• [Wilkinson] (http://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and_Parts/All_Hardware_and_Parts_by_Instrument/Electric_Guitar_Parts/Electric_Guitar_Bridges_and_Tailpieces/Electric_Guitar_Tremolos/Wilkinson_Gotoh_VS-100N_Tremolo.html) trem. Drill press would be ideal for the post holes, but you could also just clamp a guide to the body.
  
• LSR nut. Unless you have access to a router jig, I would suggest a rectangular file matching the LSR's dimensions to clean up and deepen the slot you're going to start with a super fine cut saw.
  
• Locking Tuners. Staggered, so no more string trees. Super stable tuning when paired with the Wilkinson and LSR, even after divebombs. Those "F" tuners have a super accurate 18:1 gear ratio. I also like that particular design because they're stabilized with a pair of incorporated pegs that slip into pre-drilled holes, instead of relying on a tiny little screw.
  
  I can't comment on the Gen 4 Noiseless, as I've never used them. My wiring is more like a Les Paul, with dual HB, three way switch and push-pulls for coil splits. This is a pretty good resource for wiring ideas, if you're looking for inspiration. Generally speaking, you'll also want to replace the switches and pots with Switchcraft, CTS, etc. My guess is that the MIM's come with Alpha, but I could be wrong.
  
  EDIT: Keep in mind, when researching wiring diagrams, that "Noiseless" usually means humbucker. It might look like a single coil, but it will be two coils stacked one on top of the other. Check manufacturer specs to confirm whether you're dealing with four or two wires, then plan accordingly.

Don't know what guitar(s) you've got but the first thing I bought for both of my Strats was Fender Locking Tuners.

and if I buy any other guitars, the first thing I'm going to get is locking tuners if it doesn't already have it.

Assuming you don't have vintage style tuners then Fender has Schallers or their Deluxe.

I have the Deluxe version installed on my Tele and Strat and they work great. Either one would be a breeze to install since they both drop right into the existing holes and simply tighten on with a wrench. No screws needed since they have 2 little studs that prevent them from twisting.