Best cat hand-sided carriers according to redditors

• I would get an enzymatic cleaner (e.g. Nature's Miracle) in lieu of training pads. He may not know what the training pad is, and you really don't want to build that habit. Take him out every couple house for the first few days and praise/treat him for going outside.
  
• Consider a crate or exercise pen (or both). JRTs are very high energy dogs, and it's 1000000% easier to teach a dog appropriate house behavior if their access to inappropriate things is limited at first. Otherwise you'll spend the whole day pulling shoes and remote controls out of his mouth :) Dogs are also den animals, and having a portable "safe space" is so useful if you move or take him on a trip.
  
• Look into a group basic obedience class. Even if he doesn't have behavior problems, having a structured training curriculum is great for new owners to learn how to train their dog. JRTs are very smart so you'll need to do some training to keep his mind busy.
  
• As far as toys, grab a Kong for sure. You can stuff them with food and freeze them for a mentally stimulating quiet time activity. Get a tug toy as well...great relationship-building activity.

> 1- if he does something he knows is wrong

This is REALLY subjective. Dogs don't really 'know' what they are doing is 'wrong', they only know what behaviors are reinforcing and which ones aren't. What specific things are we talking about here?

Depending on how you handle the situation, you my actually be reinforcing the behavior. For example, if he steals a napkin are you chasing him down? Chasing can be a SUPER fun game, especially for a corgi. It is jumping on the furniture? This is a pretty self rewarding behavior and if they are not normally let up on the furniture it may reinforce guarding behavior.

Focus on specifics. If you just focus on the growling, you are only looking at the symptom, not the cause - and treating ONLY the symptom will not improve your situation. In fact, it only stands to make any anxiety or stress much worse. If he is having issues with guarding, check out this article.

Being an only dog for a period of time then getting a new dog can cause a LOT of anxiety. You may not recognize it immediately as dogs are pretty good at hiding their emotions and have a different way of communicating stress than we do, but the new dog is likely having an impact (even months later). You may need to revisit/retrain some behaviors with your corgi to help him feel confident and know what he SHOULD be doing.

> 2- When he's let out of his crate, he'll growl and jump all over her, barking and snapping.

99% of the time with corgis, this is more playful or 'herding' behavior than aggression. Corgis are extremely vocal dogs and use a fair amount of growling in addition to a variety of other noises. Our corgi can sound REALLY vicious when he is in play mode, but there is a very clear difference in pitch and posture between a serious growl and a play growl (but his play growl is WAAAY more exaggerated then his real one - again, if you were unfamiliar with him you would think he was a rabid beast dog, but he really just wants you to play tug with him). If it is first thing in the morning and he is jazzed, this can all contribute to his behavior.

First things first - don't let him out of his crate when he is barking/over excited. If you need to, let him out of his crate first. It may be helpful to get him into a down/wait position while he is in his crate before opening the door. Work on having him stay in that position until you cue otherwise. Open the door very slowly, if he gets up, close the door and walk away for 30-60 seconds and try again. If you can get the door 1/4 of the way open without him getting up, give him a treat and try to get it 1/2, 3/4, etc. It will take a few tries the first few times, but corgis are VERY quick learners and will pickup on what you expect.

Once he has a reliable wait with you at the door, you can start adding a bit of distance between you and him while he is still in the crate with the open door. Reward liberally and work in baby steps. Never put him in a situation where he is likely to fail or you will damage your training up to this point, you need to be consistent. If he gets up before he is cued to do so, the door needs to close and he needs to wait a period of time before you try again. You may also want to work on this behavior at other times, not JUST in the morning when he is really excited.

This will help reinforce calmness = getting out of the crate, not barking craziness. It is likely that he is just excited to get out and start the day - corgis are very zealous workers - it is likely he does it to your wife and not you because you have corrected him for jumping up on you in the past.

Check out these articles related to this behavior:

• Jumping up
  
• Free Shaping
  
• ABCs of Behavior Modification
  
  > 3 - It doesn't matter what we put in the bottom of it as far as a pan goes, she chews right through it.
  
  What kind of crate are you using? Wire crates should have a wire bottom with a plastic tray in them. If she is chewing through that plastic tray, have you tried [a travel crate](Link: http://amzn.com/B003E77OEG)? Or even a Metal or Wooden crate (although if she is chewing through plastic/carpet/etc - she will probably be able to get through a wood one, too)? They also have crate covers like this.
  
  More importantly than trying to find a reinforced crate, when is she exhibiting this behavior? This is inline with symptoms of separation anxiety or boredom/under exercised. Again, getting a reinforced crate may be good for the symptom, but if you do nothing to treat the cause you are still going to have problems.
  
  If she does it while you are at work (for example), get her a LOT more exercise before you leave in the morning and don't feed her breakfast until JUST before you head out the door. Stuff a kong or two with her breakfast and freeze them the night before so she will have something productive to work on rather than chew through her crate. You can also leave in large deer or moose antlers - they are very hardy chews for dogs that will last a VERY long time. You can practice reinforcing her choice to chew on the antlers while you are at home and then start to leave them with her in her crate (if she proves to be able to handle them without trying to eat them).
  
  GSDs are also prone to being escape artists. A bored shepherd in a crate is not going to have a happy ending. You may want to consider getting her (AND her corgi brother!) into day care a couple times a week or hiring a daily dog walker to help them get out all that extra energy. Both are RIDICULOUSLY high energy working breeds so they are going to need more then 2 or 3 walks a day - they are both going to need to RUN for a couple hours off leash or spend an hour or two each day working on high level obedience/sport training.
  
  Our corgi can run for 2 hours+ off leash without missing a beat. Just yesterday we took 4 laps around the outside edge of a 20 acre dog park and he was outrunning most of the larger dogs there. Those little legs can MOVE! Your GSD is going to be on par if not need MORE exercise then that to really be able to relax.
  
  ----------
  
  Overall, it sounds like you have a lot of focus on symptom behavior. "Leave it" is a good management cue, but "No" doesn't really hold much weight in the dog world. You are not really 'showing them who is in charge' by telling them no, you are just letting them know that they should probably wait until you are out of sight before doing that again (or, worst case, they get yelled at). Focus on managing the actual CAUSES of these symptoms and always look to reinforce behaviors you WANT and redirect/ignore/manage behaviors you do not want. It is easy to ignore a well behaved dog, but that is when you should be paying them the MOST attention. Shape behaviors by using things your dogs want (getting out of the crate, getting plays, getting attention, getting food, etc) as a reward. If your corgi lays down and waits in his crate with the door open, he gets to leave the crate. If your corgi chooses to do 'good' behaviors, he should get some attention, etc.
  
  Corgis are REALLY good at knowing how to push your buttons and will do those behaviors if they think you should be paying them more attention. GSDs can be the same way - you have two highly intelligent working dogs on your hands!
  
  Here are some additional resources that will likely prove helpful:
  
  
• Nothing in Life is Free
  
  
• DogTraining Wiki
  
  
• Kikopup Training Videos
  
  
• The Culture Clash (book)

These are approximations because I don’t remember entirely but:
Vet certificate: $80ish (all vets are different)

USDA: $38

Priority mail: $50??

Kennel: $150 (will add link below)

Check in at airport: $200CAD

Additional information:
Pet Carries must be IATA approved, here is a site that lists the requirements, however every airline has a special set of rules, but this list will get you started. http://www.pettravel.com/passports_container_requirements.cfm

Here is a document on preparing the pet and kennel for travel: http://www.pettravel.com/airline_pet_rules/preparing-your-pet-for-travel-as-checked-baggage-or-air-cargo.pdf

I purchased my carriers from Amazon. These ones: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003E6YYYK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Edit: tried to fix formatting, on mobile.

I am sorry your dog is being so naughty. I have 2 rescue dogs, my first i have had from a puppy ( his mom was rescued while pregnant) he is uber pampered and has no idea what a rough life is. My second i got when he was 9 mths he had been treated horribly and abandoned so much, he also was separated from his mom and brother and was just so scared of anyone leaving him. When we first brought him home i just thought we would just not be able to keep him because he was a lot like your dog, ripped the house apart if he could not see us, broke out his crates, ripped all the doggy beds, he even chewed a golf ball size hole into our wall etc. we did dog training classes but it somehow made him listen and he got 1st place for obedience when i took him in the class instead of my husband who was so much better than me. It also helped me bond with doggy #2. We are still unable to leave the house without crating him but we finally found a crate that works (Petmate Sky Kennel for Pets from 30 to 50-Pound, Light Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003E77OEG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-RuCxbB7NAST0) he bounces it around sometimes but can't get out, he cracked a hole in one after abt 2 yrs so recently got another but it works. We can not give him a bed or blanket either or he shreds it. At night he no longer gets into stuff as we leave him with access to our room and once he can find us he remains calm. I recently heard from the person who has his brother that they also dealt with a lot of the same issues and now have a well mannered dog but also need to crate if they leave the house.

I know the solution or safest option for you maybe to rehome but also wanted to give you a positive story of how mine changed.

Try a hard plastic travel crate, these are designed for transport. The door is metal, and so are the windows, but the rest is not. You can try covering the metal from the inside so he can’t see it.

Six seater with the rear seats folded down allows for this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003E77OEG
to be placed in the back for long distance.

Also by getting the 6 or 7 seats they install additional air vents so the rear is much better climate controlled.

Traveled hundreds of miles with a big pitbull safely secured along with the family. Pop open the rear hatch, set up the dog ramp https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07HH3XYF2/
at a supercharger and everyone gets a nice stretch.

hey! my sheeb came in a crate that is about this size and model. i changed the fasteners to stainless steel nuts and bolts, as those plastic things look flimsy. he used that crate for about 2 months, and then i got him a large cage, not unlike this one, but he never really uses it anymore. ever since he's been house trained, i leave him loose in the apartment, with all the doors to the bedrooms and bathroom closed.

i was worried that he'd chew up the furniture or something like that, but he plays with his toys, sleeps, and has access to food and water.

For driving, we use a homemade version of this: https://www.amazon.com/Barneys-World-Hammock-Cover-Trucks/dp/B010BVN30G

Basically a loose hammock you string up between the headrests that gives a dog a good spot in the back seat.

For sleeping when camping our dog usually sleeps in the back seat of our truck in the same place that she is while driving. If you want something a bit more contained grab a crate designed for air travel ( https://www.amazon.com/Petmate-Kennel-Portable-Travel-Included/dp/B00AAPGA2W ) and strap it down in the bed or the backseat, we've used these for air travel in cargo and they are durable and easy to clean. You could also use this during transit if you are worried about accidents or the dog jumping up into the front (ours is good about staying in the back).

​

btw super jealous of your camper, those look awesome, we usually just cowboy camp in the bed under the stars unless its going to rain then we pitch a tent.

Thank you very much. This website was very helpful, and after reading through it I bought a sky kennel from Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/Petmate-Kennel-Pets-90-Pound-Light/dp/B003E6YYYK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1406763303&sr=8-3&keywords=sky+kennel) because it was available with Prime.

No it's a collapsible one, both of my boys like them https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KAWUHQY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_gXY2CbADVZ3FT

I did a 13 hour drive with two cats.

I did two separate carriers, normal cat size ones where they can turn around and whatnot, but not move a ton. I'd recommend a hard sided carrier, they're safer. If you had a soft one, make sure there aren't any holes he can bite/claw to work his way through.

I used something similar to this that I picked up at petsmart for about $20.

I wanted them safe in case of an accident - the less room the had to fly forward in their crate, the less likely they were to get injured.

I stopped the normal amount of times I would, probably every 3 hours or so for gas, restroom, and food.

I would get the food, and eat in the car, and I let them out while the car was parked while I was eating.

I had a small covered litter box and water/food for them to have access to. They didn't use any of them, which is fine, it was only half a day. But he should have access to all of them, and at least a few 10-20 minutes breaks to give him the option to use the litter and drink.

They were pretty quiet, talked a bit at the start.

Never let the cat roam the car while it's in motion. Ever.

Yeah I use this cat carrier.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KAWUHQY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Both my cats pretty much sleep in it every night...

If your cats are anything like mine, they will refuse to use the bathroom during the travel period anyhow. :)

I think she would survive the 15 hours in the carrier with breaks -- though she probably won't be that happy. The rare times we've done long car rides with the cats we've used a soft-side kennel in the trunk to give them a little more breathing room.

I am in the process of looking for a cat carrier, and read this review on Amazon and I think it's a brilliant idea that you can utilize:

'We recently moved from California to Texas, and while we had our personal possessions shipped we took our cat, a spry 18 year-old kitty on our road trip with us. We ordered the carrier early, put a small blanket that smelled like her family in it, and placed it in the sunlight in one of her favorite spots to lay, in place of her bed. In under 3 days she was going in and out of the carrier like it was her bed. We made the trip across the western states from roadside attraction to roadside attraction, and she made the trip with ease, we are very happy with the purchase.'

that review was for this carrier: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KF6S1P5/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A20F67UEDX1TJT&th=1

But they also have 'extendable pet carriers' which I'm sure the cat would appreciate having more leg room:

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=extending+pet+carrier&i=pets&ref=nb_sb_noss_2

this one can hold a litter box and food

https://www.amazon.com/SportPet-Designs-Portable-Waterproof-Collection/dp/B076MD53NT/ref=sr_1_47?crid=XHXCHNHHCZ7&keywords=cat%2Bpet%2Bcarrier&qid=1574645232&s=pet-supplies&sprefix=cat%2Bpet%2Bca%2Cpets%2C202&sr=1-47&th=1

Go for this one. It's the same one in grey under another brand and only $43CD

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01KAWUHQY

I have two medium dog crates that I use to transport my MCs. Started with one, but as they grew (and they do grow fast) I bought the 2nd one as it's easier to put one in each, rather than trying to keep the first one in the crate when I try to put the second one in. I just use them to take them to the vet.

I learned with my last cats that it was a lot easier to put a cat into a big crate than a small one, especially if the cat is uncooperative. :)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AAPGA2W/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the one I have, though I bought it at the local pet store :)

Thanks! I did get that size for the wire one but for travel I'm leaning towards this, too small?:

Petmate Sky Kennel for Pets Up to 15-Pound, Light Gray https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003WQTT1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VlmHzbZMHMZP1

Seconding the Kong idea. This is my list, based on the Digital Dog Training Book linked to in the sidebar:

Puppy Immediate Needs

• puppy Kongs probably want 3–4 of these and maybe in different sizes
  
  
• metal crate (adjustable, buy for size of fully-grown dog)
  
  
• travel crate (not adjustable, buy for size of dog currently, if needed)
  
  
• fur remover x2—one for me and one for my partner
  
  
• dog appeasing pheromone plugin We use a similar one for our cats and will definitely be using it when the puppy arrives to appease the cats and also this one to make the transition from mommy's home to our home easier for the pup
  
  
• freeze-dried liver treats these tend to be "high value" treats for all dogs, so are a good place to start, but YMMV
  
  
• treat pouch
  
  Later Needs/Growing Puppy/Dog Needs
  
  
• portable water bowl
  
  
• portable water bowl
  
  
• poop bags
  
  
• adult kongs: Realtree football, Squirrel Dude, Kong biscuit ball 1, Kong biscuit ball 2, Kong genius 1, Kong genius 2, Updog Odin
  
  
• harness
  
  
• leash/collar light there's a million of these but this one doesn't need any batteries (!)
  
  
  I also have an extensive Etsy list with collars, leashes, running leashes, and tags.

I used the Petmate sky kennel XL.

https://www.amazon.com/Petmate-Kennel-Portable-Travel-Included/dp/B003E6YYYK

Is your final destination Honolulu or one of the other islands?