Best pet supplies according to redditors
We found 42,736 Reddit comments discussing the best pet supplies. We ranked the 13,159 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
1. API FRESHWATER MASTER TEST KIT 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water Master Test Kit
Contains one (1) API FRESHWATER MASTER TEST KIT 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water Master Test Kit, including 7 bottles of testing solutions, 1 color card and 4 glass tubes with capHelps monitor water quality and prevent invisible water problems that can be harmful to fish and cause fish lossAccurat...
2. PetSafe SSSCAT Spray Deterrent
Motion-activated unscented spray safely keeps pets away from off-limits areas such as counters and trash cansVersatile and easy to use Indoor training aid for cats and dogs of all sizes. Motion sensor detects pet movement and releases a quick burst of harmless yet annoying spray to create a pet-free...
3. Our Pets Smarter Toys IQ Treat Ball - Colors Mary Vary - 4" (2130010792)
MENTALLY STIMULATE YOUR DOG: This food-dispensing dog toy keeps dogs mentally and physically active while they play. Available in two sizes – 3 inches for smaller dogs and 4 inches for larger dogs.CUSTOMIZABLE IQ TREAT BALL: Your furry friend gets smarter as they play with this interactive dog toy...
4. 25 Foot - Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System
Will not disturb fish or decor during routine aquarium maintenance.Adapts easily to most faucets.Complete ready-to-use system.No buckets, no siphons, no mess, no tank tear downs ever again.
5. Aqua Clear, Fish Tank Filter, 5 to 20 Gallons, 110v, A595
Aquarium refiltration system that offers superior contact time with filter media and energy efficient pump lowers operating costsQuick and easy installation, we recommend that you clean aquarium filter every two weeks for maximum operation and efficiencyProvides optimal mechanical, chemical, and...
6. PetSafe Gentle Leader Head Collar with Training DVD, LARGE 60-130 LBS., BLACK
Vet recommended and trainer designed: This headcollar instinctively redirects your dog’s tendency to pull by placing gentle pressure on pain-free points and eliminating pressure on his throatTeaches better leash manners: Gently and safely helps you control unwanted leash behaviors like pulling, lu...
7. PetSafe SlimCat Meal-Dispensing Cat Toy, Great for Food or Treats
DISHWASHER SAFE: Top rack onlyEXPERIENCE: PetSafe brand has been an industry-leading U.S. manufacturer of pet behavior, containment and lifestyle products since 1991, helping millions of people and pets each yearDistributes an adjustable amount of food as your cat playsHelps your cat fight obesity a...
8. PetSafe Drinkwell Platinum Dog and Cat Water Fountain, Automatic Drinking Fountain for Pets, 168 Oz.
Large water capacity: 168 ounce water capacity is great for pets of all sizes or multiple petsEncourages drinking: Free-falling stream entices pets to drink more waterFiltered water: Includes replaceable carbon water filter that removes bad tastes and odors, keeping water freshLess refills: Built-in...
9. Tetra Whisper Easy to Use Air Pump for Aquariums (Non-UL), Up to 10-Gallons
For use in 10-Gallon aquariumsWhisper air pumps provide reliable service at an economical costEfficient and easy to use
10. Seachem Prime Fresh and Saltwater Conditioner - Chemical Remover and Detoxifier 500 ml
POWERFUL TREATMENT: Seachem Prime is a complete and concentrated conditioner for both freshwater and saltwater fish tanks, working hard to remove chlorine and chloramine.REMOVER: Seachem Prime immediately and permanently removes chlorine and chloramine, successfully allowing the bio filter to remove...
11. GoCat Da Bird Pull 2 Piece Pull Apart Rod & Bird, Handmade in The USA (1 Bird)
Realistic feather toy activates your cat's hunting instinctPull-a-part rod for easy storageCats love its flight-like motion and prey-like appearancePublic Alert: Hide toys when not in use and supervise your pet while playing at all timesHand crafted in the USA
12. XY-2831 Air Pump Sponge Filter for Aquarium, Tank Size 10-Gallon (1-Pack)
Sponge filters provide both mechanical and biological filtrationProvides the ideal location for bacterial colonization.Does not trap fish fry. Suitable filter when breeding and spawning Discus, Dwarf cichlids, guppies, and killifish.Dimension: 5"L x 1.8"W x 5.5" HMax Tank Size: 10 Gallon
13. PetSafe Easy Walk Dog Harness, No Pull Dog Harness, Black/Silver, Large (EWH-HC-L-BLK)
Vet and trainer recommended: Created by a veterinary behaviorist over 15 years ago, the easy walk harness stops light to moderate pullingSafe solution for pulling: Allows you to control light to moderate pulling and rests across your dog’s chest, instead of their throat, so there’s no choking or...
14. PetSafe Drinkwell Original Dog and Cat Water Fountain, Automatic Drinking Fountain for Pets, 50 oz.
WATER CAPACITY: 50 ounce. water capacity is great for cats and small dogsENCOURAGES DRINKING: Free-falling stream entices pets to drink more waterFILTERED WATER: Includes replaceable carbon water filter that removes bad tastes and odors, keeping water freshADJUSTABLE STREAM: The pumps adjustable flo...
15. CaribSea Eco-Complete 20-Pound Planted Aquarium, Black
Complete substrate for freshwater planted aquariumsContains major and minor trace elements to nourish aquarium plantsSubstrate encourages healthy plant root growth
16. Fluval Edge PreFilter Sponge_LQ
Traps small and fine debrisCovers intake stem of Fluval EDGE filter; Attaches easilyAids biological filtrationItem Package Weight: 0.026
17. Marineland Portrait Glass LED aquarium Kit, 5 Gallons, Hidden Filtration
SLEEK DESIGN: Rounded corners and clear glass canopy allow viewing from multiple angles.DAYLIGHT/MOONLIGHT LIGHTING: Bright white LEDs create a shimmering sunlight effect; blue LEDs produce a moonlit glow.EASY ACCESS: Hinged LED lighting and sliding glass canopy.SIZE: 5-gallon aquarium fits Marinela...
18. Prevue Pet Products Wrought Iron Flight Cage with Stand F040 Black Bird Cage, 31-Inch by 20-1/2-Inch by 53-Inch
Our flight cage makes the perfect home for multiple parakeets, canaries or finches4 Plastic double cups and 3 wood perches are includedBottom grille and drawer slide out for convenient cleaningDurable wrought iron construction is easy to assemble31-Inch long, 20-1/2-inch wide, 53-inch high with 1/2-...
19. Bergan Turboscratcher Cat Toy (Assorted)
Cat Toy and Scratcher Pad offers hours of fun and exercise for your cat while reducing potential furniture damage due to scratching.Catnip and ball included. Scratch pad is replaceable. 16i 1/2 Diameter x 1.88i 1/2Provide hours of playful activityProvide exercise and mental stimulationScratch pad is...
Another betta picture hits /r/all! And no one else has already said it, so I guess it's my turn.
get one of these.
they sell them at walmart and petco.
our cats always wanted us to turn on the faucet to drink from too but we decided to get one of these and they all love it. it's almost all dishwasher safe and if you have decent tap water you don't need to buy the filters for it.
So sorry to hear about your dad, I hope he's doing better!
I would not expect Oscar to grow out of this, but there are things you can do. I'd drop the retractable leash and start using a front-clip harness or a head halter to give your dad more control and to be used in conjunction with training. Here are some resources for training loose leash walking that might be helpful. It might also help to work directly with a trainer, here is some information on how to find a good one.
ETA: exercise outside of walks is also important. This thread provides a lot of great exercising ideas.
I also had to duct tape the bowl when we had that feeder. lol. Most cats are little shits that will figure out how to destroy anything you don't want them to mess with. Our cat is pretty well behaved but eventually she started messing with that feeder to the point where it had to go. There are zero issues with the new feeder due to the great design and quality of it.
That feeder I linked may be slightly cheaper somewhere else and it certainly costs way more than the other one but man, it has made all the difference. You have so much more control with the schedule and portions. I can feed her less food more frequently so her metabolism kicks into high gear. It's amazing what losing a pound does for a cat.
Also, since cats prefer running water to still water, she has been drinking tons of water since we got this- https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Drinkwell-Platinum-Pet-Fountain/dp/B000L3XYZ4/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1480447163&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=drinkwell+platinum
Works great but does need to be cleaned every week or two.
Your questions aren't silly! It's great that you're thinking about how you can make you both comfortable before you dive into a new situation. Always set yourself up for success! :)
> do I buy a litter box/food/scratch-post before I plan to bring a cat home?
That's generally a good idea, yes. Means less stress for both of you as you're scrambling to get everything ready for him. You might ask the shelter what food the cat has been eating, as cats can get an upset tummy when switching brands/types. Not a big deal, but he will have poops that are a bit stinkier/liquidier than normal poops. That should alleviate within the week. You can lessen the tummy troubles by doing a more gradual change, mixing the food he is currently on with the food he will be on more and more, until he is eating what you want him on. But you can honestly just do the change, too, and just deal with the sadpoops for a little while.
I suggest a couple of different scratching posts, if you have the space! Cats like having options, like a horizontal post and a vertical one. Cats also like being high up, so if you can swing a tall post with platforms, he will probably like that.
Get two litter boxes! A lot of people don't realize it, but the rule of thumb for number of litters you should have is NumberOfCats + 1. So, 1 cat + 1 = 2 boxes. Clean them often. Cats are very clean creatures (especially compared to dogs) and are MUCH more likely to have accidents when they feel they do not have a better option than peeing in your bed. That's not their fault. You wouldn't want to step on your own pee/poop either! If you have problems with litter getting kicked out of the box, a litter mat can be helpful.
> Do I need to buy a carrier for the cat?
Yep. You'll eventually need to take him to a vet in all likelihood, and a carrier will make that so much easier, as most cats despise the car. I recommend a hard carrier. The softer ones seem nicer in general, but the hard carriers are easier to clean out, and you never know how a cat will be in the car until... well. They're in it. One of our cats poops and pees every. single. time. So he always gets the hard carrier.
> Should I contact a vet before I get the cat?
The shelter might require you to have a vet already, so I'd probably at least pick one out from google search. They might require you to go get a checkup, but probably not. That's more of a rescue thing, I think. Most shelters have their own in-house vet, so it's not really necessary. Don't be afraid to contact the shelter if he seems to be coughing and wheezing. Upper respiratory infections are very common in shelter environments due to the crowded nature of them, but they are also very treatable, and the shelter will be able to give you medication for him.
> How do I train a cat?
Someone mentioned Jackson Galaxy, who I generally agree is pretty good for training if you have some problems. But most of the time, cats are pretty out-of-the-box ready pets. That is to say, if you have an environment that is good for cats (where you let them have some space, where you don't make a huge amount of loud noise, where they aren't prodded and poked at constantly), they generally don't need training. We've fostered tiny kittens that automatically knew how to use the litter box. We also have boy cats who were not fixed until well into adulthood and have never had problems spraying.
It's instinct to go in the box, especially once they're fixed and don't need to mark territory really.
> For those of you who own a cat/cats, any advice for this first-timer?
Give both of you time to get to know each other. Don't force it. He will come to you, given time and space, and you'll be able to cultivate a better relationship built on trust and mutual respect if he knows that you won't force him to do things that he doesn't want to do (especially at first--think about it like building a friendship with a person; you would trust your friends to do things that you would never trust a stranger to do, and it's the same for him).
Cooing and gentle words are generally pretty good for coaxing, as is letting him smell your hand/something that smells like you before you approach for pets. Think about it like introducing yourself. You wouldn't go up to someone you didn't know well and just touch them without at least saying hi.
Every cat I have ever known, male or female, fixed or not, will pee in a pile of anything if it is left long enough. They see it as 'trash,' and I think it just registers as litter. So, if you are the type to leave clothes on the floor... I would try to stop that.
Keep nails trimmed. Scratching posts are for sharpening nails, which is an instinct that they have to fulfill, and you're giving them an outlet for. Some people think it's for 'filing' the nails down, but it's not. It's for keeping them sharp enough to get prey. You'll have to trim them.
And this is just my own personal opinion, but... young--but not kitten--boy cats are best for first timers. I have one girl, and I absolutely adore her, but she is very high maintenance/prissy/touchy, whereas my three boys are all pretty chill. Each cat is different though, so obviously your mileage may vary! It's just something I've noticed in general in my time of owning and fostering cats, that boys are more laid back/forgiving than girls (and thus I think a little easier for a first timer). Young adults are also great for first timers because you have less accidents (though that's generally not a big concern anyway) and they're more able to be on their own for longer periods of time. Older adults/seniors are great too if you want a really, really chill, more stand-offish cat, or if you want a cat that you'll have for <10 years, but if you want a little more energy and time, a cat that's about 1-2 years old is a GREAT way to go.
Some toys that are great for cats include the classic laser pointer, the feather toy, catnip toys, and crinkle balls.
Cats prefer to drink away from where they eat, so place his food bowl and his water bowl apart from one another! Some cats also prefer running water to still water, so if you notice your cat likes drinking out of the faucet (or if you just want to spoil your cat like I spoil mine...) you can get a water fountain for him!
Finally, if it's not working out for some reason, like your personalities just don't mesh well... take him back. I know it sounds hard, but it's best for him if he is in an environment where he is understood and his needs are met. There's no sense in forcing both of you to be miserable. Some shelters let you do a foster-to-adopt sort of thing, where you sort of try each other out for a bit. I like this option, because you hope for the best, but it feels a little bit easier to tap out if you need to. Either way, there's no shame in tapping out. Sometimes things just don't work the way you thought they would.
Sorry for the novel, but I wanted to be as thorough as I could. My parents recently got their first cat, and it's been... an ordeal for them, getting used to it.
It's great that you have some experience with cats though, so I think you'll be fine! Seriously, cats are sort of the next level up from a goldfish as far as easiness. Should be fine.
I hope you and your new furbaby are super, super happy together! :)
I got my cats a water fountain like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00063446M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_natgzbB98KH3X
They drink a lot more water now than when I put water in a bowl.
I highly recommend getting a product called SSSCAT. It automatically sprays compressed air at whatever trips the motion detector. I've used it for a couple of months to keep my cats from getting behind the computer and on top of counters with great success.
Video of SSSCAT in action.
I rescued a german shepherd mix when he was about 2 months old and he just turned 2 years! He's awesome!
Join /r/dogs for great community, support, and advice.
Here are some of my dog's favorites if you're lost on what to Wishlist on Amazon:
Furminator GSD mixes don't need regular brushing, but this one works great for shedding season
Dremel for nail trimming GSD = black nails, a bit trickier to trim. I use this with lots of treats to put a nice round edge and take off a bit of length of my dog's nails. works good but get him accustomed to it slowly and with lots of treats. Pretty soon he won't mind.
*Zukes are great treats for training
Wow I kind of didn't realize I have so much shit for my dog. But he's family so...anyway. Also costco has great beds for $20ish (comparably $80+ from a petstore) They also carry Frontline, lots of treats (buscuits, duck breast jerkey - the best!) good food (Iams ProActive goes on sale once in a while, and they also carry Natures Domain salmon/sweet potato food that's really good).
I have one. Clean it every 2-4 weeks, refill it every few days and you're golden. My cats love it. Also healthier for them since they drink more water.
My cat does this too so we ended up getting him one of these which is essentially a food-dispensing pokeball
I love the last image Amazon has for that product.
I'm not sure how much support you're getting for raising a blind dog, but you might consider getting him some Doggles. Since he can't see where he's going, Doggles will protect his eyes from getting scratched by branches or sticks on walks. Another good idea is a fountain for him to drink from, since he'll be able to hear where the water is.
Do you mean she pulls/fights/struggles to go see them because she wants to see them (in an excited way) or in an aggressive fearful way? I didn't get a reactivity read from this post, but correct me if I'm wrong.
Your problem is three fold. 1.) your dog needs more exercise. It's a vicious cycle - you don't like walking your dog because it's a nut, but your dog is a nut because she doesn't get walked. Being a shepherd mix, she probably needs a lot more exercise than a walk anyway. Are there any fenced in dog parks you can go to? Maybe look into a flirt pole. Your dog would benefit from a lot more exercise than it's probably getting. I would guess she's probably strung up tight like a child's wind-up toy, and it's virtually impossible to get focus out of a dog that over-threshold.
2.) You need to get control of her before any sort of training can take place. I would get a gentle leader. It is harmless to the dog and very difficultly for a dog to pull through it, even a very strong dog. This should stop your dog from pulling you over. An no-pull harness might work, too, but the gentle leader is the most effective, imo.
3.) You have to train your dog to focus on you instead of on really excited stimuli. This is tough, and it's best to start with a well-exercised, tired dog. Start in the home, with minimal distractions. Reward and praise your dog for any attention your dog gives you. Have her sit by you and literally any eye contact gets a "yay!" and a treat. You need to slowly retrain your dog's brain to focus on you instead of other things. Once she's good at that, add distractions indoors (people moving around, toys on the floor, etc). Eventually, once you're getting steady focus indoors with distractions, move to a low distraction outdoor area. The backyard maybe. For some dogs this can be really, really hard. Use a high value reward (hot dogs, cheese, beef liver, etc) and reward and praise any time she chooses to give focus to you instead of the environment. If you keep at it, you can start to ask for focus in very stimulating environments, and then throw a treat and praise party when she gives it. It's not a fast process, but it works. I started my dog at 8 weeks, admittedly, but at 8 months, she can sit in the middle of a crazy busy Home Depot, with carts rattling around and lumber falling to the ground and people everywhere, sitting in heel position, looking up at my face. She can do this because I have paid her (in treats) for offering me focus so much the entire time I've had her. It's so worth it!
Cats aren't dogs, they don't react the same way. When a cat is trying to get your attention, any kind of attention is a reward. They don't understand "no" and will just come back once you shut the door again, because the sound makes you open the door.
Placing something like this outside the door is what they should do. It is a motion activated air canister that will spray air at the cat when it comes near the door, which will frighten it. It will learn to stay away from the door, and won't connect the discipline negatively with you.
Bettas really shouldn't be kept in bowls. There is no filtration so they are being poisoned by their poop. There isn't enough water so they cant swim and their waste is more toxic quicker. They are also tropical fish and should have a heater to keep the water around 78F.
I know you are on a budget but I STRONGLY recommend getting a much larger tank. Right now Petco is having a $ per gallon sale so you should pick up a 10 gallon tank (I don't think the 5 gallon qualifies) for $10. Get a good heater (The one thing you shouldn't skimp on...don't want any cooked fish) Also pick up a sponge filter like this and a cheap air pump. If you want some cheap lighting you could do desk lamps with normal light bulbs. This pretty much covers the essentials of what you need to buy. On a side note though if you buy any plants don't buy plastic as they will rip your bettas fins to shreds insted pick up some silk plants.
Also I would recommend reading up on some basic betta care and this quick overview Also read up on the nitrogen cycle and some general information
There is much more that others can add, I'm sure. Good luck! >'-'<
Cats like running oxygenated water, try buying a pet fountain for your cat.
My parent's cat used to drink from the tap and would only use her water bowl if it was fresh and had ice cubes in it. They bought a pet fountain and now the cat drinks a lot more and leaves the tap alone.
Edit: Here are some cheaper options.
Side note- you should look into getting your dad a Python aquarium water changer. Hooks up to your faucet and can both empty and fill the tank for you. I got my dad one because he’s got a slipped disk in his back and couldn’t carry his buckets anymore.
Guard your bedroom doors with these things
You posted a picture of your pet, so here's your standard "your pet is in dire medical straits" post :]
My cat used to drink out of my water cups all the time, even though I had a bowl out for her. She eventually got a urinary stone, which was the result of both feeding her too much meat (changes the pH of her urine) and not drinking enough water. I changed her diet, but also got her a waterfall bowl. Cat's really prefer running water, which from an evolutionary standpoint would be safer to drink than stagnant, still water. Once I put out the waterfall bowl she took to it instantly, and stopped drinking out of my cups. Even putting medical conditions aside, it's just a nice treat for your pet! Thought you might find this info useful.
You could get one of those water fountains for pets. Like this: http://www.amazon.com/Drinkwell-FWB-RE-Original-Pet-Fountain/dp/B00063446M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1369935306&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=pet+fountain
A lot of cats like to drink from running water.
Gentle leaders work better in my experience, it's basically impossible for the dog to pull.
okay person, here's how you do it with cats. If you value your cats, train them. I've trained my cat to Sit, Scratch, and Run on his exercise wheel on command. He is also trained "Gentle" to stop playing / drop claws, "git" to go to ground level if he's on something, and Come when called by name. Cats LOVE structure. Cats like rules and consistency. They don't like change (who does!?) and while it can be hard to see them struggle with adjustments, they will be okay, and it might end up being a lot happier long-term for everyone if you learn to teach them structure and rules in how they interact at home, starting with this.
Training that Meowing =/= attention (open door)
I would recommend in addition to this, you work on rewarding quiet behavior through the linked process of training to sit, then training to be quiet. It's a lot harder with two cats, but all cats can be trained. it's def a lot more work than dogs since cats only learn via rewarding positively, and not via punishment.
They sell motion activated cans of CO2 that Pssssst when anything comes near. Worth every penny.
My Mom's cat loves this thing.
Glad you seem so willing and ready to help your betta! Im gonna try to cover everything that you need to help your betta live a happy healthy life in one comment :)
Petsmart sells 5 gallon kits that come with filters and lids! A 25-50watt heater will work for a 5 gallon, preferably adjustable like the 50watt aqueon is common in pet stores and theres a preset heater that would also work the tetra 40 or something i think its 50watt as well
You will also need to cycle your tank! Ill explain that a bit more below and include links.
Fish-in cycling -
Basically the fish-in cycling process consists of 50% water changes daily using Seachem Prime (preferably). Do this until your tank is cycled, which I’ll explain how to know that below.
While cycling, add the beneficial bacteria directly into the filter daily.
A good filter set up is something with low flow, it can be baffled if needed. For filter media (or the guts of the filter) cermaic bio media, aquarium sponge, and filter floss would be great. Don’t replace any of this unless it starts breaking down, then you’ll need to seed new media, but you shouldn’t have to worry about that for a long time.
You’ll need an API Master Test kit, this is an accurate way to know your parameters (such as ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate). This is more accurate than strips, with test strips its super easy to get an inaccurate reading. The kit also lasts longer so you’ll get your money’s worth. I’ll include a link below to the kit.
When the tank is cycled, you’ll test and find 0 parts per million (ppm) ammonia, 0ppm nitrite, and ‘x’ amount ppm of nitrate. (Dont focus too hard on what parts per million means, its just how this stuff is measured. Nitrates should be kept under 20ppm, they arent as toxic as ammonia or nitrites but can be in large amounts.)
After your tank is cycled, you’ll need to do weekly water changes of 15-25% using a gravel vacuum preferably. Gravel vacuum/siphons allow you to get the dirt out of the gravel easily without needing to take it out. Highly recommend getting one of these! Its a necessity!
• Avoid large water changes, it could offset the balance of your tank. Never rinse the filter media in tap water, that can kill the beneficial bacteria (which I’ll send links to explain that more in a second). To clean the filter inserts aka media, just take them out and swish or squeeze in old tank water till the gunk is out. You’ll probably only need to do this once a month or so.
Nitrogen Cycle: https://fishlab.com/nitrogen-cycle/
Fish-In Cycling: https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/fishincycle?utm_source=share&amp;utm_medium=ios_app
My diagram/explanation on the cycle:https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/comments/c8evu4/nitrogen_cycle_art_by_me/?utm_source=share&amp;utm_medium=ios_app
API Freshwater Master Test Kit 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water master Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cEpvDb8R85Q1K
Seachem Prime Fresh and Saltwater Conditioner - Chemical Remover and Detoxifier 100 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255PFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_u-kKDbTMV2W8K
Northfin Food Betta Bits 1Mm... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M4Q5DQ4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
This is the best quality pellet I’ve found, here’s why:
• Nutritious, includes whole ingredients
• No fillers, hormones, or artificial pigments
• Packed with proteins, amino acids, vitamins, and minerals
• Floating pellets, roughly 1mm (they float for a bit then drop, my bettas chase them down)
• Easily digestible to promote optimal nutrient absorption
(This stuff is advertised by seller, but if you read the labels its all good)
Helpful other supplies:
Seachem Stability Fish Tank Stabilizer - For Freshwater and Marine Aquariums 500 ml https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002APIIW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_k.kKDbDZMVD4J
(Bacteria in a bottle, it’ll help speed up the cycling process but it is optional)
Gravel Vacuum/Siphon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q97ZPSF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LblKDbFT79MAB
(Of course you don’t need this specific one, I just chose the best seller off Amazon as an example of what to look for. The local pet store should have these for around $10)
How-To Gravel Vac: https://youtu.be/LYv5n0a85OY
UPDATE: March 6, 2016 Sunday
Today I went to the store and grabbed a Fiji bottle. (No I don't endorse it, and think it is a terrible idea to ship water across the world, but it was THE ONLY WATER WITH electrolytes analysts and a PH value, which I replicated in the test).
Okay here is my imgur album for anyone who wants to scrutinize color as I tried used flashlight at different angles to give most accurate light (warning lots of photos): https://imgur.com/a/JzdQ7/all
Ah, forgot to mention, I use API test kit: www.amazon.com/API-Freshwater-Master-Test-Kit/dp/B000255NCI
And here is the public report: www.dcwater.com/news/publications/DC_Water_Annual_WQReport_2015.pdf
EDIT - Thinking with all the Flint Michigan stuff fresh on everyone's mind: who else out there in DC independently from our utility tested the water we drink?
EDIT2 - a redditor suggested trying testing bottled water and posting the results. Some why the comment is now deleted, but I think this is a great idea and will come back with that tomorrow when I buy some bottled water.
If you're willing to spend like $60 or so, this might solve that problem.
Also quite convenient if you have to leave the house for a couple days, e.g. over the weekend. Just refill and clean it once a week and that's it.
Dog puzzle feeders.
My dog gets his dinner from toys everyday. I rotate between OurPets IQ Puzzle Ball, Kong Wobbler, Magic Mushroom, and Tug a Jug, since those are the slowest dispensing as well as easiest to fill. I also have a load of other ones but found them to be too easy for him (One minute to empty Buster Cube on "hardest" difficulty vs average 20 minutes from the toys I mentioned). I used them everyday for about 5 to 6 years and never had to replace them.( Then again, my dog is not much of a chewer of hard plastic.) My dog LOVES getting his food from toys to the point of actually almost refusing to eat while giving me a very sad disappointed face when I just put it in his bowl. He has fun and they tire him out (he is panting after every meal). Win for me.
are you using a normal collar/leash? my labradoodle pulled like he wanted to choke himself until I got a harness that attaches from the front. when he pulls it tightens on his front shoulders and pulls his legs together, preventing him from pulling. I also give him lots of small treats, keeping my arm tucked to my side so he has to be right beside me to get them and is rewarded for being close to and listening to me.
as far as comments goes, it sounds like a majority of the comments you are getting are somewhat sexist since your S/O isn't receiving those same remarks. I would just remind them he's still a puppy in training and focus on training your pup. that's definitely frustrating, having to listen to people make the same comments over and over again though.
Umm.. ok. Unfortunately, if that bowl is Liam’s permanent home, he won’t have the really great life that he deserves. No living fish should be forced to live in such a tiny bowl/tank permanently.
A 5gallon is the recommended minimum tank size to give your new pal the best possible quality of life... You can keep him TEMPORARILY in the bowl but you’ll need to change the water DAILY with fresh dechlorinated water (or pure spring water works too but is a bit more costly) since such a small container is going to foul up fast. Remove any leftover food/waste ASAP as soon as you see it.
A larger tank is going to be more stable and better for the betta in the long run. I really hope you’ll upgrade him sooner rather than later.
Some cheap ones can be had:
https://www.petsmart.com/fish/starter-kits/top-fin-essentials-aquarium-starter-kit-40713.html?cgid=300128 (manually click on and select the 5gal. It’s going for around $31.99 at the time of this comment)
https://www.petsmart.com/fish/starter-kits/top-fin-imagine-aquarium-kit-38988.html?cgid=300128 (be sure to get the 5gal. version currently priced at $25.99 at the time of this comment, DO NOT USE THE DIVIDER, I’m linking you this tank with the intent that you only put one betta in it, 5g for one single betta).
I recommend a sponge filter which isn’t included in those kits but would be gentler/more effective for a betta than those filters included in the tank kits. Also recommended a 25w heater (assuming you go for 5 g tank) with a manual temperature control knob since preset heaters are not accurate.
Once you have the 5g tank, sponge filter, and proper heater, you need to do Fish-in Nitrogen Cycle: https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/fishincycle
Must Have Items for your Nitrogen Cycling process + Additional Info:
https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116012300-Stability-500ml/dp/B0002APIIW <-- Beneficial Bacteria blend, add 2x-3x the recommended amount of this directly into the filter, filter media, & tank water, especially after a water change. Add the bene-bacteria on a DAILY basis, for up to a week or longer if you like. Don't worry about "overdosing" on Bene-bacteria, the more the better when trying to kickstart a nitrogen cycle.
https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116043304-Prime-500ml/dp/B00025694O/ <--Best water conditioner, also temporarily binds ammonia into less harmful form.
https://www.amazon.com/API-FRESHWATER-800-Test-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B000255NCI/ <--- ABSOLUTELY MUST HAVE, VERY IMPORTANT, liquid water parameters test kit. Three main things to check daily or every-other-day: Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate. Not cycled will read 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, 0 Nitrate. Cycling in progress will read some ammonia and/or some nitrite, but little or no nitrate. Fully Cycled will read 0 Ammonia, 0 Nitrite, and 5-10 ppm of Nitrate, then when nitrate reaches 15-20 ppm in a cycled tank a water change is necessary to reduce said nitrates.
Also... try getting NorthFin Betta Bits, they're one of the best pellets with high quality ingredients, little or no fillers, and absolutely no nasty toxic preservatives. My bettas love them so much that they inhale them like it's drugs for a drug addict or something LOL (or exactly like Kirby)! https://www.amazon.com/Northfin-Food-Betta-Pellet-Package/dp/B00M4Q5DQ4/
Beware of overfeeding, which is equally bad for bettas (they are gluttons and would eat till they burst if given the chance) https://i.imgur.com/4RR2LZ9.jpg. (save this pic for reference, feed betta as much as makes his belly match between 1st and 2nd photo, then let him digest back down to a normal belly before feed again.)
Filter - any as long as it have adjustable flow (or else you can make a baffle if the flow is too strong, google about that), or many here recommend a basic Sponge-Filter to have a gentle water output that won't be stressful and push the betta all around the tank (the ones with big fins have a hard time with strong currents in their tank).
Heater - Any heater, following the 5-watt-per-gallon power rating rule, with a manual knob for setting temperature (so for example 5g you want at least 25watt heater), don't go for preset heaters (they're not very accurate). Bettas like 78-80F (25-27C).
Plants - Bettas like to have a lot (like a jungle) of plants to hide in, swim through, explore, play, and rest on. Some beginner live plants that don't require special setups are Marimo Moss balls + Java moss, other live plants may have special requirements in order to thrive. Silk plants (cloth leaves) are fine too if you don't have a green thumb. I do a mixed hybrid tank; silk plants + lots of marimo moss balls + java moss. Make sure if using silk/fake plants that there's no sharp pokey bits, remove and sand them down if there are.
Decor - Bettas appreciate cave-like decor that they can hide in. Make sure there's nothing sharp on the inside of the cave, nor sharp edges or sharp parts outside. Avoid also any smallish openings that a betta can get their head stuck in if they get curious. Another nice decor is the ZooMed Floating Betta Log (for 5g or larger tanks), bettas like hanging out in there.
More info on Betta care & needs: https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/index
If after reading all this info it seems like more than you can handle, you should try to rehome him on r/aquaswap to a local aquarist with a big planted tank to give him the best life. He’s a living creature and you have to consider his needs as you are responsible for his quality of life. If you want to keep him, then you absolutely have to give him the best care and best environment possible so that he can live a long healthy life (bettas can live 3-5 years and sometimes more if you really treat them well). When there’s a will there’s a way! You can and should do it!
Have you tried this kind of toy? It may keep her further from your bodies when she plays and less like to redirect toward you.
I would recommend that when you play with her that at any sign of 'you' becoming the toy, play immediately stops and you either leave the room, or, if that makes her chase your feet, you stand still, arms folded, head up, until she calms down or leaves. Alternately, your fiance could remove her, calmly, from the room and shut her in a bedroom for 15 min or so.
Wear long pants, long sleeved shirts, and shoes to try to keep the damage to a minimum.
Don't act like prey. Don't scuff your feet, flap your hands, or make high pitched sounds - these may trigger her aggression. If you do and she reacts, stop. Of course if she's doing damage, do whatever you need to protect yourself.
Do look into the pheromones. I've heard from many people that they work, though I've never tried them myself.
You may want to try interacting with her by training her to do things... Like teaching her to sit on a chair or something. That could give you two a way to bond that isn't likely to lead to violence.
Try getting her a bunch of scratching posts and stop getting her nails trimmed. It's not worth it, since she can hurt you either way.
Oh, I hope you can work this out. :) And I don't blame you for freaking out when she attacked you, I would, too, if one of mine did that.
Shoots a little bit of air at them. Here's the product
I had a chunky foster who would scarf her food then cry for more. For hours.
I started feeding her out of this $8 tricky treat ball from Amazon & it worked so well. She enjoyed the play aspect (and it kept her moving!), and it slowed her down so much that she'd frequently feel full and come back to chill with me when there was still a little food left.
I mean, this is a pretty good deal imo. I don't think you should be dismissing and downvoting this post without doing the proper research. FYI did the math:
17lbs Seiryu rock - $32
Nano 511 Externa Canister Filter - $69
Jardli Glass Lily Pipe inflow and outflow - $49.90
JBJ Rimless 10 gallon - $159.99 cheapest I could find, it's 189.99 at petco
Glass lid - can't find one for 10g so I'd assume custom made $5+
GH & KH Test Kit & API Master Kit-$8.59 + $22.54 = $31.03
Tropica Aquarium Soil 3L - $49.60
5 Gallon Bucket w/ lid - probably like $3-5
Seachem Purigen - 2 packet is $19.49
Cleaning magnet - $5-20
Spider Wood - Depends like $10-25+
Siphon - depends probably $5-10
Test Strips - $5.22
By the way, these are all conservative numbers. The total comes to around $484.31, which is if everything is brand new. Even if some of the products are used, the cost is 52% off the conservative value of all the items in this package. So for the quality of the items here, I don't think it's a bad price at all. Now the question is, which items are new and which items are used?
Welcome to the sub and welcome to the fish-keeping hobby!
First off, I seriously can't thank you enough for being willing to learn and change to help out Draco and keep him healthy. I'm sorry the pet store gave you bad info, they really suck at that and that's why so many fish end up in this kind of situation. Unfortunately most of them don't get caring owners like you who are willing to get the adequate housing after finding out the pet store's recommendation was terrible.
Here's a link to the basic care sheet. Gives a good outline of what you need. Here's a link to the wiki as well. The basics you're going to need:
-A bigger tank (5 gallons is minimum, but 10+ is even better and tbh there isn't much of a price difference at all between a 5 gallon and a 10 gallon tank)
-Water conditioner (Tap water contained chlorine and/or chloramines, which are toxic to fish. New water needs to be treated before it's safe. I recommend Seachem Prime water conditioner, as it's very concentrated and also temporarily detoxifies ammonia which is useful during cycling)
-A lid (Bettas are naturally inclined to jump. Tank kits come with lids, or you can buy one separate like the versa tops, or if money is tight, you can get $2 plastic craft mesh and use that)
-A an adjustable heater (Bettas thrive at temperatures between 78-82 degrees F)
-A thermometer (gotta make sure the heater is doing it's job. Get a glass or digital thermometer, not those "stickers" they sell, as the stickers are super inaccurate)
-A gentle filter (Bettas don't like high current. If you get a hang-on-back style filter, you'll likely need to baffle it. Google "water bottle filter baffle" and you'll find really easy ways to do that. Otherwise sponge filters are a really great option, about as gentle as they come, and super cheap too)
-A water testing kit (You need to be able to test for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates. Safe values are 0ppm ammonia, 0ppm nitrite, and 20ppm or less nitrates. Get a liquid testing kit as paper strips are crap)
-Some decor so he doesn't feel too exposed (Avoid plastic plants as they can tear fins. Stick to live or silk. If you're on a budget, clean ceramic mugs make cute little hiding caves! Just make sure there's no soap residue)
After all that, you're also going to want to check out the fish-in cycling guide. Absolutely vital for fish health.
I'm pretty sure that covers everything, feel free to ask any questions you come up with! Good luck and I hope Draco lives a long, happy life with you :)
Also try getting one of the water fountains for him to drink out of, it encourages cats to drink more and urinate more, lowers the dangers of crystals in neutered male cats (that don't drink extra to mark territory).
If you still have trouble with pulling on walks, I highly highly recommend trying a gentle leader if you haven't already! It loops around the dog's snout (it doesn't hurt and isn't a muzzle, they can still open their mouths normally) so that if they pull on the leash, it redirects their head toward you. It's much easier to help your dog learn the limits of the leash if you're controlling their head rather than a harness that goes around the strongest part of their body! The gentle leader + treats method is how I finally got my stubborn pitbull to learn how to walk with a loose leash (thank god)
This is geared toward dog owners, but "Impulsive Rehoming Phase" can happen to any pet owner. (http://familypaws.com/2012/impulsive-rehoming-phase/) You're certainly not alone (even if you don't feel impulsive).
Can you pinpoint other specific behaviors that are annoying? Your example of meowing makes sense, because presumably you work very hard and are tired, so your son's nap is your only time to relax. Plus, cranky baby. Discrete behaviors can be modified (whereas general feelings of annoyance cannot).
First, is your cat healthy? Illness or stress can cause your cat to vocalize excessively. Adding a baby to the home is definitely stress (as can be moving furniture, etc). Is your cat using the litter box normally? Missing the box can be a sign that it is dirty or that your cat has a UTI. If the vet gives a clean bill of health, you can help stress by using a calming pheromone plug-in.
Make sure you are providing your cat with enough enrichment and opportunities to exercise. For example, interactive toys, a bird-watching window, scratching posts, vertical spaces, or even a catio.
Finally, schedule in some TLC. If you have a cat that enjoys grooming or petting, carve out 10 minutes to do that activity (or even 5 if it is a long day). You might find that not only does it meet your cat's needs, but it helps to redevelop the bond that you once had with your cat, but aren't really feeling lately.
I've gone off a bit on a tangent, but a behavior counselor can help you identify plans to solve specific behavioral issues (if you can identify them), if you can't solve them on your own. Hopefully that would result in a happier cat and a happier mom.
That's so awesome, I'm happy for you and Buttons! If I could suggest a cage, I just got this one in anticipation of my next baby. It seems like a great bang for your buck and the small flaws it has (mostly the spring loaded doors) are an easy fix. I put it together myself without much hassle in about 1-2 hours last night.
My cat did this all the time when we had the sink running. We finally broke down and bought him a fountain.
This is a readymade product
I say this with all the love in my heart - this situation is a hot mess. I am really sorry that this has exploded into such an unmanageable situation and I hope you can get in to see the behaviorist soon!
>She is destructive. She has hundreds of dollars in toys and a variety of them; however, she would rather chew the walls, the paint, the furniture, etc. or find something to get into (newspaper, trash, toilet paper, closets, shoes) than play with her toys.
>She barks, ALL THE TIME, for NO reason, whatsoever.
Is she barking at you? Out the window? AT something? Just walking around and making noise? Is she in heat? Has she always done this or is this a new behavior?
>She is cage fearful and CANNOT be crated or confined in a room.
If her reaction is that bad you may want to speak to the vet about getting her some medication to help her relax so you can train her - doesn't even have to be in a crate, it can be in a puppy safe room blocked by a high gate. Closed doors ARE really stressful for some dogs - you are basically locking them in a room where they cannot see or get out of it (so I get the anxiety). Crate usually work better as they can still SEE out of them. You need to work on getting her comfortable alone in a space - large or small - or you are going to have huge problems for an extended period of time.
If she never likes crates, that is fine, many dogs dont really like them, but if she can't be in a room by herself, even, that is an issue. Medication, thundershirts, very slow methodical introduction to these new situations can all help you get you where you need to be.
>Temper-tantrums- If she is not getting what she wants, she bites people, she scratches them, she barks at them, she jumps on them, etc.
Dogs don't really throw 'temper tantrums'? Unless it is effective in getting her what she wants.
If she is doing something you do not like, you need to be very calm, level headed and firm (but not forceful or intimidating). She does NOT get what she wants when she is acting inappropriately. Help guide her to more desirable behaviors to get what she wants (ask for a sit or down or settle before she gets anything). See Nothing in Life is Free.
>Tendency for food aggression- She has on four occasions gone after the other dog in our house during meal time; again, this is for no reason, the dog will not be anywhere near her and she will run across the house and attack the other dog.
If she cannot be crated for meals, crate the other dog. Physically separate them. If there is another dog in the house it may be contributing to her added anxiety (some dogs just DO NOT get along well with other dogs in the same space). If she is going out of her way to attack the other dog, I would start to suspect that this is more so the case than simple food guarding.
>She is not spayed, she has demodectic mange and cannot be spayed until this is treated. She came down with a fever on Saturday and threw up. She has had several bouts of conjunctivitis and my boss (a veterinarian) now believes she may be suffering from an auto-immune disorder. Bloodwork will give a more definitive answer tomorrow.
Has she been healthy with you for extended periods of time since you have had her? It is very possible some of this behavior is related to being in a new place and sick. It is a bit extreme to blame it all on that, but I would not be surprised if she calmed down to some extent once she was back up to 100% health and had some time to settle in more. (I see she has only been with you 2 months). Spaying may also help as, at 7 months, that is around the time she should be getting her first heat (which can have a significant impact on behavior).
You need to be doing a LOT more with this. Your dog sounds anxious and crazy and pent up. At 7 months old it is not unheard of for puppies to still not really be 'into' walks (partially because they don't 'get it' partially because they are going in and out of fear periods). Socializing and walks can be good - but there are a lot of other ways to get your dog exercise.
One of the big things is going to be training - especially considering how out of control she is. Do more training - 5-10 minute sessions 3-5 times a day (or more!) keep them sort and focused and start with things she already knows. Look into clicker training and have her earn her meals this way. Be sure to crate or remove any other dogs from the area before you start working. Alternate rewards between treats and play. If she knows a skill REALLY well, fade treats all together and focus on other rewards.
Play training games like hide and seek (have her sit/wait and move to another area - call her and reward for finding you. Start out really easy at first then increase the difficulty to where you are hiding behind doors or other objects) or 'find it' (hide treats under cups and have her find the cup with the treats - if she guesses wrong, shuffle and try again. If she guesses right, lift up the cup! There are lots of variations of this game out there, too, that uses toys or other objects).
Try doing some free shaping training and work on reinforcing 'going to bed' on a mat or pet bed if she is afraid of crates.
Play games in a safe area - like an empty baseball diamond or wide open area. Get a very long lead (30feet) so you can still control her if you need to. Play chase games, get a flirt pole, teach her how to fetch, work on obedience or just let her smell and explore. Going on 'hikes' on wooded or unpaved trails can also be very engaging and tiring for dogs.
>What I have tried (consistently, for 2 weeks consecutively)
This is not enough time. Pick ONE method and stick to it. If you are getting ZERO results after 1 month of consistent training (again, 5-10 minute sessions, 3-5 times a day) then you can make small modifications, but do not change the rules completely! Your dog is just going to get confused and frustrated if one day she is working to earn rewards and the next she is being rolled on her back for not recognizing that what you were saying to her was a cue.
>Give her a job, a project, a responsibility, a schedule: Not a thing.
You MUST be consistent with this and it should be a part of WHATEVER training method you go with - full stop. Again, Nothing in Life is Free is a really easy way to get your dog working to earn things (aka "a job") and a schedule is ideal for ANY dog (meal times, bathroom times, play times - most dogs thrive on routine).
>Positive reinforcement: Bribing her with food has somehow taught her to beg for food and harass people while they are eating.
This means you are doing it wrong. Positive reinforcement is not bribing - it is encouraging a dog to repeat behaviors by giving them things they want when they do specific tasks. Check out our training basics. If you are always using obvious food (e.g. "loaded lures") to get her to do things then she is going to become more focused on the food then learning actual behaviors.
>Negative Punishment/ "Alpha" Training/ Dominance rolling: Nope, doesn't give a sht
Avoid these things with a dog with behavioral issues to this extent - it can just prove to them that you are, in fact, dangerous and unpredictable and cannot be trusted. At this point, you REALLY need to foster trust with her! Check out What not to do to your best friend, Comments on "alpha" dominance theory, and The Culture Clash
-- to be continued --
A good local fish store, a place that specializes in aquariums, is a great ally to have. Related are local small pet stores (no dogs and cats) and local pet stores. The more specialized you go, generally the better you get. There are bad ones - the LSPS and LPS that are very accessible to me are awful. Sick fish in dirty water, dead fish drying up on the floor :'(
I mostly go to Petco because the good LFS is a one hour train ride for me. Mine is well managed: the fish are healthy, the plants are nice, and the department manager has a lot of experience. A chain store may be your best option, and if the fish seem healthy (the water is clean, minimal fin damage, no visible diseases) then go for it. Not all Petco are created the same.
Live plants: You can buy online (/r/aquaswap and /r/PlantedTank are two subreddits for this) or buy in-store. LFSs often have live plants. Petco sometimes has plants - buy the ones in the tanks, not the ones in the tubes. Petsmart only has tube plants, which have to go through an adaptation period after being submerged, and they may not survive that period. Awfully expensive on top of that! You can do a snail dip to clean up your plants before placing them in your tank.
As for tanks... whatever makes you happy. Betta prefer horizontal space to vertical space, but this seems to be a very popular tank on /r/bettafish. Buying tanks online can be a crapshoot; make sure that the price is competitive because often they'll jack it up to make up shipping costs for a large, heavy, fragile item. I suggest you look in person. I've been happy with this one but I would recommend going 5 or even 10 gallons if it's your first swing after you've been out for a while.
They have a betta care sheet at /r/bettafish, and if you search "tank recommendations" you'll turn up a whole slew of what's worked well for others :)
I haven't seen anyone give an extensive, quick, and friendly guide so here's a quick one!
You're going to need a 5.5 gallon in order for him to thrive, otherwise you're gonna have a very unhappy fish who might live but will not be doing good. An aquarium is a tiny ecosystem in an enclosed space, so a .5 gallon gets very toxic, very quickly. It'll hurt his gills, it'll hurt his fins, just everything. The ammonia will buildup quickly and reach very dangerous levels, and although 100% water changes will decrease that, an established bacteria colony (made up of harmless ones) needs to be there for the fish to really be healthy!
When you see a happy and healthy betta, you will never want to go back!
Cheap quick solution for now: Five gallon Rubbermaid from Walmart, this filter, paired with this air pump, and this connector tube. It will run you about $20, and can hold for a while!
Long Term: Buy a 5.5 standalone aquarium tank from Petsmart (only $14.99) and a little pack of gravel, and some live plants of your choice! Check our r/aquaswap for some cheap plants from other Reddit users. Just move over the filter and heater, and you have the perfect set up! There are also some cheap lighting solutions that you can buy to help your plants grow!
Everyone gets tricked in the beginning, but making steps towards helping your betta will enhance his life so much! The whole set up, the filter/air pump/tubing and tank from petsmart, will cost you $27.48 since you've already got the heater!
If your heater is too small, I've got the link to a $6 one (which is $10 less than the cheapest at any pet store I've been to) on amazon that works perfectly and is recommended all the time on this sub.
We have a care guide with all the basics, and a wiki with more detailed info.
Here, and here are a couple of guides on cycling. It's a process new fishtanks must go through to make them safe for fish.
For now, regular waterchanges and a heater are most important!
About 20% daily should be fine, make sure the new water is the same temperature as the old water, and to add the conditioner.
Seachem prime is a good conditioner, I'd stay away from the ones marketed towards bettas (they are not that good, and way more expensive).
other useful things you may need, but not asap:
If your tap is dripping, fix it and get one of these:
My cats absolutely love it and it keeps them from making a mess with in the water bowl.
PetSafe SSScat, has a motion sensor on the can that will shoot a puff of air to scare the cat. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RIA95G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mbOBybGWWMK8F
I've been there. Everything you don't want chewed needs to be kept it out of his reach. Hide EVERYTHING. The teething and chewing does eventually get better, but in the meantime, crates and puppy-proof rooms are VERY important. Baby gates and wire playpens are good for blocking off hazards in common areas. Keep a close eye on him for now, check his stool for potential problems (blood, irregular, or lack of elimination = drop what you're doing and go to the vet). If you see a string, don't pull it.
I know you didn't ask for advice, but here are some things that really helped with my dog:
Put one of these up there, cats don't fuck with these.
I've used a number of puzzle toys, usually for treat delivery. I've found these two to be the best:
One is a ball-style one, one is an "activity center".
I have a border collie, and I second this. One of the best things we ever did was get a Tricky Treat ball, which we feed her in every day. We don't even have a food bowl for her anymore, because she eats all of her meals out of this. We fill it twice a day and she does an amazing job self-pacing her eating, and it immediately calmed her down. She feels like she's working for her food, and she likes being independent, and she likes to feel useful. Every now and then if other dogs are over, we feed her normally, and she does not like it. She loves going for bike rides, but I've found that teaching a new trick does just as well at tiring her out, which is great in bad weather. She's like a person: she needs to feel like her life has purpose in a way that I haven't experienced with other, non-border collie dogs. Another easy thing to do in bad weather: play fetch up and down the stairs. Start with regular fetch, then start adding tricks to it. Make her sit and wait A LOT. My dog is two, and she's calmer than she was a year ago, in part because we moved a year ago to a house with stairs and windows that she can watch things from, and in part because we switched her to a grain-free kibble which solved her digestive issues, so be aware of that as an issue for lots of border collies!
Welcome to the sub! There is lots of misinformation out there about betta care and I'm going to help you set things straight.
Bettas are tropical fish and require three things:
Heater to keep the tank at 78-80 degrees
2.5 gallon (absolute minimum) or larger tank (5 gallon is strongly recommended)
Once you meet these requirements you have a better chance of saving your fishy friend.
If you haven't already take the time to read the care sheet. It's full of info to get you started on the right path. Also check out the nitrogen cycle. This will help you keep track of the health of your tank. You're going to need a water test kit to do this. Fish keeping is more about keeping water than fish.
I'd be delighted to answer any and all questions you have about anything.
For the moment you need to get him into a bigger container and do more frequent water changes. It's possible he's suffering from ammonia poising. He appears quite swollen, it could be that he is bloated. How often and what do you feed him?
I was in your shoes not too long ago, it's overwhelming! Here's a list of things that I bought, but I am not an expert so if others have better input go for that:
Shop for whatever is cheaper, I have a huge heater because I had an extra one from before. I've read that it's not necessary but also have read that if you want them to breed you need to stimulate warm water. For now, I keep the heater off and leave it at room temperature of 72F. They seem very happy! Most important in my opinion, add plenty of plants and a marimo ball or 2.
Lastly, I'm unsure of the siphon, I think it's good to have a bucket and siphon just in case your water parameters are looking bad so you are prepared to do a water change. From what I read, shrimp have a very low bio load and should be able to sustain themselves. Make sure to do tests regularly.
EDIT I just read that this is your first aquarium, so here is a detailed write up:
Setting up your tank
After your tank has cycled
Please don't skip the important step of acclimating your shrimp! They are very sensitive to water changes and this ensures that they will survive.
Here are my water parameters, people have all kinds of ranges but this is what works for me:
I hope this helps... again, I was in your shoes not too long ago, it was really overwhelming. But after a lot of research I think my tank is in a good place :). Other users, if there's anything in my list that seems incorrect please let me know!
I use the API Freshwater Master Test Kit (Amazon link).
My cat used to only drink from a running faucet, be it the sink or the bathtub. Researched it and found that a large percentage of cats will only drink running water. We got him a cat water fountain and now he doesn't beg at the sink anymore.
These work really well:
While I totally agree with everything this poster said and I think ultimately negative reinforcement should not be the primary method, I have found using this [motion sensor air sprayer] (http://www.amazon.com/Ssscat-PDT00-13914-SSSCAT-Cat-Training/dp/B000RIA95G) to be a great deterrent to leave in place when I am asleep/away from home. As it's a method that becomes part of the environment, it also avoids some of the problems with other negative reinforcement methods (spray bottle in particular) such as kitty thinking that he'll only get in trouble when you're around and/or associating you with punishment.
I would say a cage like [this] (https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00176F5L0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nlprDb4JXKD81) is strongly recommended for happy lovebirds, unless you’re letting them free roam your house a few hours a day and the cage is for sleeping only.
If your cat doesn't seem like he likes playing, try Da Bird as a cat toy. I've never seen a cat who doesn't become obsessed with playing with this thing. It's like crack.
It sounds like Swim Bladder Disorder, which, while alarming to see, is actually not life threatening in most cases. He will most likely heal on his own in time, if you give him a good suitable environment for him.
I recommend Seachem Prime as a water conditioner, it's the board favourite around here and the good thing about it is that it converts ammonia (produced from fish waste and anything else decomposing in the tank, is toxic to fish) into a harmless form for 24 hours. Since you do not have the Nitrogen cycle established in your tank, this property will be very useful in keeping your fish comfortable while the cycle gets started.
If you don't know what it is yet, please read this article about the Nitrogen Cycle and then this guide to Fish-in Cycling. This is not optional information in fishkeeping!
By the way, those fake plants you have--bettas have very delicate fins that are easily torn on the typical plastic aquarium plant; here we have something that's referred to as the "pantyhose test", which is basically what it sounds like--stretch a pair of pantyhose over your fingers, and run it over any tank decorations you have. If the decorations snag the pantyhose, they are rough/sharp enough to tear a betta's fins. For this reason, silk fabric plants are recommended for betta tanks over plastic plants. Make sure any hides you have for him don't have any holes small enough that he'd get stuck (I learned this one the hard way), bettas are curious fish and like to stick their heads in everything.
I posted this list of affordable but good tank supplies for someone else yesterday, so here you go:
Here is a list of affordable supplies:
Aqueon Quietflow Filter, $14. I replaced the filter cartridges inside this unit with ceramic filter media (gives nitrifying good bacteria a place to grow for biological filtration) and Seachem Purigen (absorbs organic waste) along with a good chunk of filter floss (way cheaper than buying filter pads) to make it more effective, but it's not strictly necessary if you're on a budget.
Hydor Theo Submersible Glass Heater, $20. This is my favourite heater, I've set up five tanks so far using this model. It heats up well, holds the temperature steady automatically, and it's adjustable, so if you ever need to turn up the temperature (sometimes needed to treat illness), you're all set.
Seachem Prime, $5
API Master Testing Kit, $19. This is extremely helpful to have when setting up your tank, so you can test the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels in your water. All three are toxic to fish in high quantities, in order of most to least bad.
If your betta is sulky or a picky eater, you can try tempting him with freeze-dried bloodworms (but feed very little, as they expand when they get wet and are super fattening) or soaking his pellets in garlic juice.
Edit: Also, yeah, do not feed him "generic" fish pellets. Bettas are carnivores and need to be fed as such. I suggest Hikari Bio-Gold betta pellets.
Play time helps. My cats go crazy for Da Bird
Breed: domestic short-hair, a.k.a. moggy.
She looks to be older the 6 weeks as her default blue eyes (almost all kittens, including those of the "big" cats are born with blue eyes) have already turned to green.
Looks like you are giving her Temptations treats; those are good for an occasional treat, but not for feeding real meals. Cats are obligate carnivores; they need meat--check labels on cat food and avoid anything that has fillers like corn.
Good wet food (esp for the price!): https://www.amazon.com/Purina-Fancy-Feast-Flaked-Shrimp/dp/B0012KB466/ref=pd_sim_199_3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B0012KB466&amp;pd_rd_r=B8MQ2M7BCPCJGWPBQD1N&amp;pd_rd_w=SpSRe&amp;pd_rd_wg=Cwzvx&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=B8MQ2M7BCPCJGWPBQD1N
Set up a feeding station somewhere quiet, where you have little foot traffic and no noise (like washing machine etc).
Make sure she drinks enough water. The watering station needs to be away from the food station (cats do not like to drink next to food; it's an evolutionary left-over -- in nature water next to killed prey might be contaminated).
Cats like running water (signals "fresh" to them); try leaving a faucet on a slow drip or get a water fountain.
Be sure to get her a break-away collar with contact info in case she gets out. Microchip her as well.
Take her to a vet soonish to check her over and get her spayed (no more kittens!). Do NOT get talked into declawing her.
Get a couple of GOOD scratching posts, one where she can do a full body stretch vertically without tipping over the thing (this one is good: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000634MH8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1)
Try cardboard scratchers, too. Cats love those!
Most cats love "da bird" to play with (https://www.amazon.com/GoCat-Cat-Feather-Assorted-Colors/dp/B000F9JJJE/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504644018&amp;sr=1-4&amp;keywords=da+bird)
Here's a great resource for any cat appreciator: http://www.wayofcats.com/blog/
That's all I can think of right now ... except this: have fun with her. Cats can enrich your life in immeasurable ways!
ask the roommate about opening the window for the cat during the day. Alternately, you could buy the cat something like this http://www.amazon.com/Bergan-Turbo-Scratcher-Cat-Toy/dp/B000IYSAIW
This is not a good method. Cats will identify you as the source of the threat, which isn't a problem for them but is a problem for you. A cat that fears you will exhibit behavior problems that will escalate the more "punishment" you give it. Also, they will simply wait until you're not around to continue their bad behavior. They are not like dogs and do not learn better behavior through punishment.
Here are two good methods:
Cats train you, not the other way around, so you have to be a deliberately "stupid" student in order to get the cat to try new ways of training you.
>Ours will howl and bash on the door when we kick them out, which presumably won't help a baby sleeping.
My cat does this also if she's kicked out of the bedroom. She usually sleeps with us from whenever I go to bed till around 5am when she goes into "play mode" and starts running around the room getting into everything being super noisy. So usually around 5am we'll put her outside the room and close the door so she can go play literally anywhere else in the house but she more often than not comes back to the door to bang on the door and yowl. The solution my husband and I have found is to place a Scccat cat sprayer by the door so when she comes to the door to bang on it the sprayer sprays her with a little puff of air that scares her away. It isn't like it's hurting her or anything but she's scared enough of it to leave the door alone which means we get to sleep in peace.
And for what it's worth the Ssscat is great for training cats to stay off kitchen counters and things like that also. We originally got it for our older cat (who is now an outdoor cat due to other issues) to keep him off the kitchen counters and it worked like a charm after about 2 weeks of kitty jumping on the counter, getting sprayed, and running away. Eventually he just stopped jumping up at all and we were able to put the Ssscat away.
Cats also love running water, they make drinking fountains for cats just for this reason.
PetSmart has a 5 gallon kit on sale right now. All you would need is a heater.
I also recommend getting the API test kit and Seachem Prime for dechlorinating the water. Some silk or live plants would be good too. Take a look around the subreddit over the next week or so to see what else you should get. But the tank, test kit, and prime are pretty essential imo!
Welcome to the wonderful world of Betta fishkeeping! 🐟
NO NO NO NO NO NO NO.
Okay, I'm going to save you from a dead fish here, alright?
Water contains a few chemicals for treatment to make it safe for us to drink, one of them is chlorine, in that same family...there is also chloramine.
These burn the hell out of fish's gills. Its dangerous.
Get yourself a bottle of seachem prime. Its a dechlorinator. This will make it safe your fish to even exist in the water.
Second, read about fishless cycling
Since it sounds like you're getting the betta soon. You can read about fish in cycling
You can use that handy dandy bottle of seachem prime dechlorinator to also detoxify ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate for about 48 hours per dose. ONLY PRIME DOES THIS, not any other dechlorinators.
You see, filters on fishtanks contain a happy little bacteria colony that takes fish waste (Ammonia) turns it into a harmful nitrite, then turns it into relatively harmless nitrate. It keeps your fish stress free and also, if those toxin levels get to high--it kills them/ or makes them susceptible to disease. You can check the levels with this test kit
Bettas enjoy low flow in their fishtanks because they aren't the strongest of swimmers. I recommend a sponge filter. They also like their tank between 78-80 degrees. So a good heater is a MUST.
A great air pump is $4.19 right now:
Thanks to /u/happuning for pointing that out to me!
You could try tossing treats towards her and eventually hand feeding her. Talk softly when you are around her and attempt to engage her from a distance with a toy on a stick. Maybe something like a da bird.
Are your females fixed? If not, that should be priority #1.
Any methods that would definitely keep him out or deter him (air sprays, scent repellents, etc) would work on your cats as well. The most obvious would be closing the window and just letting them in and out manually.
If your cats wear collars, you could get a special cat door installed that is activated by a fob on the collar. There is also this interesting one that is activated by your cat's microchip.
^or ^just ^keep ^them ^inside ^where ^they ^can't ^kill ^birds, ^crap ^in ^your ^neighbor's ^yards, ^and ^get ^into ^fights...
The two biggest challenges with all-in-one setups for shrimp is light (not enough) and waterflow (too much.) Shrimp really require live plants to thrive, and those plants need enough light to grow. It's hard to judge from pictures, but that tank's light seems like it MIGHT be adequate for low light plants. Shrimp also require very low waterflow. High waterflow will blow them around (they're tiny and light swimmers compared to fish) and they will easily get sucked onto the intakes of most filters. The tank you linked would need some modifications to be suitable for shrimp: at the very least it will need sponges or pantyhose covering the inlet and outlets, and the flow will need to be turned down to the lowest setting, probably.
So, it might work. But if you're interested in shrimp specifically, you might as well spend a small amount extra and build a custom setup that is tailored to them. You'd need:
I think all of that will run you roughly $75, give or take. Obviously, more expensive than the all-in-one, but it would result in a tank that would be easier for a beginner to succeed with.
You'll also need to get some non-equipment essentials, like subtrate for planting in, a test-kit for monitoring your water, and obviously food, and a petri dish for feeding is highly recommended.
Then you can get into plants and stuff. Whew! Sounds like a lot, I guess. It is, but it's worth it, and shrimp are definitely a good place to jump into aquariums.
Wow aha. This sounds like my corgi puppy (female) a few weeks ago to a tee. She is now 15 weeks old.
I know you already know what I am going to say, but the little habits will fall away pretty quickly as he gets used to his new surroundings! At least it happened that way for me!
For the zero chill, I started forced nap times every 2 hours. She mellowed out pretty hard after that. They don't know how to self-regulate their sleep and a lot of the bratty behaviour is because they're overtired and overstimulated!
The eating of everything seems to be a common tread as well.. unfortunately that one hasn't gone away for me yet - I hold her leash REALLY tight (or even her collar) while I pick up her poo to make sure she doesn't eat it - gross. Apparently they grow out of this .. still waiting. Also, snails have become the new best thing to eat.. ugh.
As for the nipping, I found that yelling "OW!" really shrill and sharp, then storming away and closing the door behind me was super effective (and honestly kind of fun). My corgi is an attention fiend, so she learned pretty quick that nipping results in a loss of attention and play time.
Lastly, my corgi pup did the EXACT same thing with her kibble.. I tried soaking it in broth, even that got boring. So, I got her a treat dispensing toy and I load up her entire meal into it, she now LOVES her kibble. Corgis love a challenge, they're smart dogs. Maybe give that a try? It's a $10 investment on Amazon (https://www.amazon.ca/Omega-Paw-Tricky-Treat-Orange/dp/B0002DK26M/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=omega%2Bpaw%2Bball&qid=1552483475&s=gateway&sr=8-1&th=1)
Best of luck! And don't hesitate to message me with any corgi puppy problems!
I'm sorry, this all sounds very stressful. :(
Just as a heads up, your tank is overstocked. Those inhabitants would be okay in a 10+ gallon tank, but it's a heavy bioload for a 5 gallon. Also keep an eye on the guppies with the betta. Sometimes they don't get along. 5g is generally too small for a betta and other fish, and apple (Inca) snails can get very large and produce a lot of waste. You should definitely consider upgrading your tank size. I would be concerned with the amount of ammonia/nitrite/nitrate in the water. Pick up a liquid (not paper) water testing kit when you get a new heater if you don't have one already.
Moving the heater next to their tank while you're gone and hoping for the best is all you can really do in this situation. Because it's so cold where you live, getting a higher wattage of adjustable heater might be okay for you. (100 watts is good for a 10 gallon tank.) Can your husband get a new aquarium heater for you? If he can't get to a store maybe you can order one online with express shipping and ask him to install it.
This test kit is pretty much a staple of the hobby.
If you can get it, seachem prime will help heaps because it will neutralise ammonia for 24 hours and its one of the best water conditioners out there, also a master test kit will help you know how much ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and ph. If you do get the master test kit try and keep ammonia under 0.25ppm (parts per million)
Without some frequent water changes, expect a lot of those fish to die. Get yourself a water testing kit ASAP (like this one) and monitor the heck out of those water parameters. Those that do a fish-in cycle usually only do so with 2 - 3 fish. It can take a month or more for a tank to fully cycle, and in that time you will have ammonia spikes, nitrate spikes, and nitrite spikes -- all of which are harmful to fish and must be managed apropriately (generally, with water changes). Having live plants will work in your favor, but it will not erase all the effects of cycling a tank. The shrimp may or may not survive.
You also seem to have some high-maintenance plants in your tank (such as the dwarf hairgrass). Unless you have high enough light, fertilizer, and possibly CO2 (it may grow without, but I doubt it will thrive), this plant will most likely die. You also may want to rethink your DIY filter -- Bubbling items are not usually recommended in an aquarium with live plants since it helps disperse CO2 instead of letting the plants use it.
Make sure you have a good water conditioner on hand, as well.
Before you continue any further with aquariums and fish-keeping as a hobby, I definitely recommend you visit the "Helpful Links" section of the sidebar and read most of the things there; the e-book, the guide to aquariums, fishless tank cycling (even though you're cycling with fish, it will educate you about what your tank is going through), lighting guide, and stocking levels are a good place to start.
Aww! What a little smarty pants.
If he eats too fast you should try a ball like this. He won't be able to break it open so he'll have to roll it around and can only eat the food as fast as it comes out (which is not very fast).
It's called a "gentle leader" harness. Contrary to what it looks like, it's not a muzzle. It's a harness meant to stop dogs who pull when leashed by tugging gently on their noses when they pull, thereby turning them around and confusing them so they stop. It's completely harmless and a much better solution to dogs who are large pullers than things like choke collars. Some dogs will pull so hard during walks that they'll constantly choke themselves, and these are a good solution to that.
I considered getting one for my dog but opted for a chest harness instead since he only weighs 30lbs.
If your beagle pulls a lot, I would recommend a front harness.
Best thing we ever got for our beagles.
Try an easy walk front clip harness. You will still have to do the whole stopping when she pulls and treating for good behavior, but it makes it harder for her to pull and will kind of make her twist when she pulls. You could also try a face lead harness, but if they are used incorrectly you can hurt your dog. They are fairly inexpensive and helped a lot with my terrier mix.
> Mine puke when I put more food in their bowl.
One of ours did this. He would gorge on the new food and vomit it up five minutes later, to the delight of our other one. This fixed that. Now he only vomits hairballs and people food, when he is able to sneak some.
>My gfs cat pisses high in the litter box
We had this problem too, and one of our cats rejects covered litterboxes (probably the same little shit who pisses too high). These fixed it.
I'd recommend you buy a Ssscat. I place mine right by the door facing perpendicular to the threshold so that if my cats want to come scratch the door/carpet right in front of the doorway, it triggers and scares them off. It's motion sensored to trigger a harmless blast of air. Should work perfectly. :)
In addition, it's great for keeping cats off counters or wherever else they shouldn't be. The downside is you do have to buy refills eventually, I feel like the fact that I can place it pretty much anywhere is worth it.
You're gonna likely want one of these, there are a few different kinds to choose from beyond this. Hell, you could even make your own. But it will make your life much easier.
Step one is to learn and understand the nitrogen cycle! Having its gills burned away by ammonia is a horrific and agonizing, torturous death for a fish. Processing the ammonia out of the water is a vital necessity, not an option.
Purchase a master test kit, and learn how to read and interpret the results. I have taught children how to do this, it should be a breeze for you. Don't be intimidated by the numbers, it is simply a matter of making the numbers from the test match what your fish need to thrive.
Plan ahead! The more planning you do while the tank is dry, the better. It is far easier to erase a line from your notepad than to rip out a substrate you hate and replace it. It's easy to let impatience get in the way and to charge forward, but that will lead to mistakes. Too many mistakes will discourage you and may push you out of the hobby, and I want you to be a lifelong fishkeeper.
YouTube, hobbyist websites, and /r/Aquariums of course, are all good sources of information. Use them. There are a lot of good people right here who will jump in to answer any question you have moving forward.
I envy you. Setting up my first tank was an amazing experience, and I wish I could feel it again. I wish you the best of luck, OP.
It would certainly be easier to answer "What did you already know" before you started this. Nothing.
This list will inevitably be incomplete but here goes:
And probably another 1000 things.
right here. Python No Spill Water Changer. attaches to your faucet. pulls the water out of the tank into the sink and then sends water back into the tank to refill what you've removed.
Okay, first of all, if you genuinely think she'll make you more miserable and stressed when baby arrives, you won't be a horrible person if you can find someone else to take her. Any pet is a lot of work... and an infant is even more.
That said, I want to offer my 2 cents because I feel really bad for you and I've worked with a lot of problem cats (both mine and others')!
I'd say priority one is discouraging the sleep attacks. Try keeping a can of compressed air by the bedside and spraying it when she attacks you. It's pretty effective with our cats as an immediate "no way" reaction for very bad behaviors.
You can also adopt some cat body language if you're not afraid of looking silly. Just like dogs, cats have communication behaviors that you can take advantage of with a little patience. Jackson Galaxy (the cat whisperer) has a ton of resources on this if you're interested; my husband and I have used a lot of his techniques with positive results! There are several, but one example is the "slow blink." Next time she's just staring at you, stare back and then slowly blink your eyes. This is a way of communicating you're not a threat and it tends to calm really wild/anxious felines.
It definitely sounds like she has some pent up energy, too. She's still pretty young and kittens can be pretty wild (all of my cats have mellowed out considerably as they've gotten older). Different cats like different toys, but some that I've noticed have been favorites of all have been those little fuzzy mice that come in multipacks, feather teasers, and this turbo scratcher cat toy. The last one is nice because they can play with it without any help from humans.
Finally, if there's ever a time and place where she's sweet (even if those moments are few and far between), keep a few treats handy around the house and try to just reward her occasionally when she's chill, nicely sitting in your lap, etc. Just like dogs (and people!), it's often more effective to train them by positively rewarding good behavior than just punishing bad behavior.
Sorry for writing a book! I really hope you can work things out with your psycho little fluffball.
He was in the shelter in a cage or a small enclosure, yes? And now he is in a BIG NEW WORLD and it is most likely scary and stressful to him, and he feels no sense of his own space and territory. Try moving him to a bathroom for a week or two. Put in a litter box and a small bed and some toys (interactive ones if you can, like the ball track). Try a bed that is enclosed, like a cube bed or similar. Then when you bring food and water in to him, or when you use the bathroom, spend some time talking to him and petting him. It seems weird and all, but cats usually have to acclimate to new spaces, and starting out small is best. Even a small bedroom might be too big for some cats. You'll know when the cat is ready to leave the bathroom, as he will start to be curious when you open the door and try to see what else is out there and try to get out. When that happens, leave all his things in the bathroom and just leave the door open for him to explore as he feels he can. He will go out for a bit and explore, probably mostly when you are asleep, and eventually he will start making the outside rooms his new home and feel safe.
You need to listen to my advice here. Seriously, you really need to listen to a random stranger on the internet and do exactly what they tell you without question:
Buy this: http://amzn.com/B000L3XYZ4
You can thank me in two months via message after you realize how wonderful it is and how much your cat appreciates it. I have four cats and can go two weeks without having to change their food or water and they are happier with that arrangement than ever before. It's a win/win.
My advice? Crate train from the very start. It'll give your dog his own space and give you relief from those tiny teeth when you need it. :)
Puppies bite. A lot. Don't be disheartened by it.
Dogs like rewards. Check out positive rewards training like the kikopup channel listed in the sidebar. It'll save you a lot of frustration. I personally find this list of kikopup videos easier to navigate.
Dogs don't know how to walk on a leash until you give them direction. Don't expect him to walk next to you and not sniff everything in front of him. They don't know not to pull and sniff constantly. Teaching heel indoors before you ever need it outside is a lifesaver.
No pushing your dog's nose into an accidental pee. That teaches nothing and makes your dog think you're an unpredictable whacko.
Exercise, exercise, exercise! No forced leash running until he's fully grown, but until then, keep him from getting bored by getting him lots of play time. Training exercises require a lot of focus on his part, so that'll tucker him out too. Treat balls for feeding are super fun and herders seem to love them.
Be his best friend. The quality of his life depends entirely on you. No tying him to a tree out back and going on with life as if he doesn't exist.
Good luck with him. Add a pic to this thread once you get him so I can aww over him. :)
She might like something like this
I'm a man and I've had other guys make comments like "who is training who?" at the dog park when my dog doesn't bring a ball back and I have to go get it. It's definitely annoying and I have to bite my tongue from making smart ass remarks.
I know you said you aren't looking for advice, but my dog is also crazy on walks and very reactive. We started using a gentle leader head collar and it made a night and day difference.
We still work on training the normal way during walks, but the gentle leader makes it way easier to pull him away from whatever he is lunging at on the occasion that the training fails and he reacts to something.
this may repeat what others have said but this is a fairly exhaustive list of things that have shown really good response from my cats:
that's about it as far as things that remain interesting... and that fit in nice categories
note the Go Cat toys will become destroyed if you leave them out unattended/after play so keep them somewhere out of reach when not in use
This has been my life since I got my own apartment 8 years ago. I am still battling my three cats to get them to pee in the litter box.
People are going to tell you to take him to the vet to get checked for UTI, urine crystals. That maybe the case. I have had major success in using SSScat as a behavioral tool to curve this behavior. We found that there were 'spots' my cats preferred over others. Most of them seemed territorial. We placed the SSScat there for a little under a month and they quit peeing there.
Also make sure your litter boxes are accessible, my cats prefer them without the lid, only tolerate a certain amount of refuse in their litter and are particular about the litter we use. All of these things contribute to getting them to cooperate with peeing in the box.
I suggest getting one or two [SSScats] (http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-KIT19001-SSScat/dp/B000RIA95G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1464720946&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=ssscat) and messing around with different litters, making sure the box is clean, and other variables. My parents have also have had success doing this but you know each cat is their own unique asshole.
Maybe try this? It's overpriced on amazon for some reason, you should be able to get it half the price if you shop around.
It will startle you and your SO just as much, but it's hilarious.
Use a motion activated air can to keep him away from the door and he will learn to leave it alone.
Motion-sensitive air cans - http://www.amazon.com/Ssscat-PDT00-13914-SSSCAT-Cat-Training/dp/B000RIA95G
We use these when training a cat to stay off the kitchen counter/desk/etc. Just don't forget they're there; always scares the shit out of me when I accidentally set one off.
Here you go, the large is a very good size and only $106, the xl would be even better
Prevue Pet Products Wrought Iron Flight Cage with Stand F040 Black Bird Cage, 31-Inch by 20-1/2-Inch by 53-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00176F5L0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nHf0CbYWXT00D
Buy a sponge filter for your tank when/if you get another betta.
I use this one with the tetra brand air pump in my ten gallon and I am very happy with the results.
Since space is a concern, I'd highly recommend starting with a fish who prefers to live alone. The humble betta fish is very hardy.
You could get away with a three gallon tank, but your fish would be much happier in something with 5 gallons. The 5 gallon cube tanks do not take up much space and would be perfect! There's actually some concern within the hobby that bowls may stress fish out because of the shape, so it's not just a size thing.
I would not count on an external radiator to keep your fish comfortable. a 25-50 watt heater isn't terribly expensive and would do a much better job of keeping it consistent. Fish are cold-blooded animals, and sudden swings in temperature that we might not even notice because our bodies regulate our temperature internally could be lethal to your finned friend.
So. I'd recommend starting with a 5 gallon aquarium This one is a little pricy but it comes with a light and a filter, so all you'd need is the heater and whatever you want to decorate the tank with. You will also need a good water conditioner. I like Seachem Prime.
Look up the nitrogen cycle. I would highly recommend cycling your tank before the fish goes in. If you do fish-out cycling, you could realistically get it done in about a month, especially if you use a substrate like Eco Earth.
Lastly, give your fish friend some places to hide. And plants! Easy live plants to keep are anubias and swords, and they will help keep your water tidy in between changes.
Their intelligence is what leads to lots of their behavior issues. You gotta exercise that brain too.
Have a look at these toys. They have been great for our cattle dogs over the years. They tend to eat too fast so these tend to be food/game focused.
I love the above one but one of our dogs is too smart for it. She picks up the covers with her mouth and sets them aside. when she eats all she can reach she tends to turn it over to dump it out.
I'm super impressed with the bell to go out. We haven't been able to get ours to do that.
I got a food ball for my cat. She has fun knocking it around, and it stretches her meals out for half an hour or so. She meows less at night ever since I got it for her.
Preface: I am not a vet! I'm just a pre-vet student who has successfully gotten her chubby kitty to lose weight, so take my advice with a grain of salt...
Do you free feed or do you only give the recommended amount per day?
If you free feed, kitty is probably still eating as much as he wants and the weight may never come off. I would recommend switching to a regulated amount per day (I quickly looked up the feeding directions and it looks like you should be aiming for about 2/3rds cup daily; however, you should confirm this with your vet) if you haven't already.
In regards to wet food, try out several brands and see if you can find one he likes. My kitties are mostly fed Weruva or Best Feline Friend, but I've recently had to switch back to Hill's Ideal Balance wet food for just my Siamese because she is super picky.
As for exercise, you should be playing with him several times a day to the point where he starts lightly panting or flops over and refuses to move. I enjoy using the laser to run my kitties up and down the stairs and around the house. My kitties also lose their little minds for Da Bird, so you may want to check out your local pet store for something like this to encourage your kitty to use all his energy going after a toy.
When I was having my kitty lose weight, I would use this to feed her her small daily ration of dry food, so she actually had to work a bit to get her food and couldn't just sit there and gobble it!
Hopefully some of my experiences will be of help for you guys! Chubby kitties are stubborn, but once you find the right balance of food and exercise, the pounds will start coming off! Good luck :)
It’s for cats and dogs but they love it!
A gentle leader might be your best option. When a dog pulls, it instead gently brings the snout down and stops the pulling motion. That being said, it takes a good bit of training for a dog to accept this (as taught by the helpful dvd they send with it). Best of luck in your search!
5.5 gallon tank from petco - 12 dollars (or if you can go today 10 gallon for 10 dollars plus tax)
Heater - 12 to 15 dollars (I like this one but there is also this one here)
Filter - 13 dollars to 25 dollars (It may need baffled or This one though it's a bit more expensive but I prefer it just remember a filter is just something to push water through it. Also can look into sponge filters)
Substrate - 0 for bare bottom or 10 dollars for some cheap sand at petco This sand to be exact.
Light - 42 dollars This is what I'd buy but you can find cheaper or just do grow lights in little plug ins
I'd keep at least 30 for plants but you can get some cheaper live plants or maybe find some cuttings for free.
Total is 47 dollars for a proper set up not including plants since I don't know what you can do in your area. With my over priced light for your set up it's 89
Alrighty, there seem to be some people here with the same questions so I will try my best to give a decent answer based my vast experience with cats and cat health care.
First the simple one. If your cat is peeing (not pooping) outside of the box then you need to rule out UTI first. There is no point in reading any further. UTI will make your cat pee outside the box because it starts to associate the pain from peeing with the box.
Now to continue, your cat is pooping outside of the box or all medical problems have been ruled out.
This happens when the cat is in mental distress. Cats can get depression and anxiety just like us human can and one way for them to express that is to take a big steamy smelly shit right in the middle of your sofa, bed, carpet.
If your cat does this, its trying to tell you something and that is that he or she is very unhappy. He/she might look her normal self but underneath that cute face is a ticking timebomb.
So your cat is unhappy, now what? It is still very important to have anything medical ruled out. Just take your cat to the vet for a general check up and mention that he poops outside of the box.
After he/she got a clean bill of health you can start to take action inside your home depending on the cause.
Just because you always had the same litter and box does not mean your cat didn't woke up one day and decided enough was enough and he/she isn't taking it anymore.
Cats are creatures of habit and like things just the way they are, if you mess with that they might surprise you with a steamy pile of crap.
Now of course I understand you can not simply return your baby to the baby store. So what to do now?
A Feliway plug really goes a long way and I would really recommend it to anyone who has cat troubles.
Unfortunately just plugging in some pheromones in a wall socket is not going to do the trick on its own. It will make things easier but you still have to do the hard work.
It is very important! that your cat has ways to get high up. Bookshelves, cat tree's, anything that is high so he can look down upon his/her kingdom and feel safe. This will go a very long way in giving back your little princes his or her self esteem back.
Also, and this really is the magic trick, you will have to play with your cat. Cat are hunters and even though they come in cute little packages now, deep inside of them hides a sadistic little killer. Letting this killer out and have its way with a feather or toy mouse goes a long way in making your tiger feel whole again. I suggest playing with your panther at least 20 minutes a day, active interacting play where you make him/her chase something on full speed and jumping over things. I suggest using something like this http://www.amazon.com/GoCat-Apart-Feather-Assorted-Colors/dp/B000F9JJJE have not met a cat yet that could resist Da Bird!
Step one and 2 are just the basic things to cover and usually when they are followed the problem will resolve itself.
If you have any specific question then just ask way, I am happy to answer them in any way i can.
Congratulations! Our siberian is about 1.5 years old now and has been an incredible cat and great experience for us. Here's a couple points from my perspective and experience:
strangers and introduce them to people. This worked well with our kitten to make him very social and unafraid of visitors at our home.
Those are my thoughts! Feel free to post any specific questions as they arise.
Lil Bub doesn't have teeth either! So she has a celebrity to look up to.
In every case I've experienced of transitioning a cat to indoor-only life after being allowed outdoors, there were verbal protests. They did subside. Cats don't naturally vocalize to communicate with one another after the mother-kitten rearing period (they rely more heavily on scent and body language) and tend to become vocal because humans react to it. Failing to react can discourage meowing, but that's not always true when the cat is really trying to say something and isn't getting what they want, so you'll probably have to suffer it out until she adjusts and the indoor atmosphere becomes habit/normal. I definitely sympathize with how taxing it can be when you're trying to sleep.
You might find some success with something like a Turbo scratcher for play, and if she doesn't find it engaging at least it can double as a bed and scratching board. My family's older female cats love those things, even the generally non-playful ones.
Also, when do we get adorable pictures?
My lil guy (Cheeto) had UTIs and the vet said he had to go on a specific diet and be forced pills to help and he would have to go on that diet for life. Well 3 weeks later and after all the pills and diet change he wasn't any better, but we noticed that he wasn't really drinking and he wasn't eating as much wet food, especially with the new diet which was all hard food. Got the following water fountains and all our cats love them (3 different cats, but only the one had UTI problems).
Take your pick on water fountain, one cat each has a favorite!
for an office aquarium i would suggest finding a 5 gallon tank of any shape you like. how about this one. then you can aquascape it in any manner you like. you can put killifish of your liking or a betta. or you can have a shrimp only aquarium with different colors of shrimp.
That is most likely a snowball pleco, which are nice little guys that are pretty hardy, good omnivores, and get to be about 4-6 inches. There are quite a few babies like this currently available in my LFSs, and I have a few that have done quite well in a community tank.
I agree with the other commenters that you are getting an ammonia/nitrite/nitrate spike from the addition of new fish. I recommend Seachem products to help (not affiliated, just long-time freshwater and saltwater tank hobbyist). First, use Seachem Prime as a water conditioner to help - after doing a water change. Your tank will need to do a mini-cycle to recalibrate the bacterial load for the addition of new fish. You will likely need to do frequent water changes until the cycle ends. Test with something like API master test kit to track the rise and fall of ammonia/nitrites/nitrates. Ammonia and nitrite spikes kill fish very quickly, while high nitrates shorten the lifespans of the fish by more slowly harming their organs (regular water changes help keep nitrates down long term). Add a bubbler to the tank to help with the stress by making sure there's not additional stress from low O2. For the fin rot, clean water can cure it. You likely will need to treat the fish as well with something stronger. Seachem makes paraguard, which I use all the time for quarantine and mildly ill fish. You can add an antibiotic like Seachem kanaplex to ParaGuard or treat separately with kanaplex to help with fin rot. Both medications work by being added to the water (rather than feeding to the fish). The best thing about Seachem products is that they affect the pH much less than any other products I have tried. Note the additional oxygen is usually necessary when treating with medications. Seachem Stress Guard can also help transition fish to a new tank. All these products are available on Amazon and usually are at Petco/Petsmart/LFS.
For future fish additions, I recommend 1) adding only 1-2 fish at a time to limit the cycling problem and 2) QUARANTINE your new fish, so you can treat any diseases they may have before adding them to your community tank. Even a small tank with just a bubbler can work as a quarantine for a small fish for a couple weeks, and can be a literal lifesaver for your other fish.
Also - there are a lot of great online communities for different types of fish that you can check out to learn more about these things. For plecos, start with this one. :) Good luck with your new guy!
Get one of these.
They lose all leverage against you. With an easy pull you can turn them around and thus control them much better on a walk.
But, the sniffing for some dogs is a difficult thing to break
Sssscat Cat Deterrent Spray. Motion sensing, squirts air.
The problem with the squirt gun is that the cat starts to associate that with you and not the action. Also... some cats think it's play.
Other than that, set expectations. A sharp "No!" - clap your hands, point to the floor and set her down. If that is not enough, the Ssscat definitely.
I actually bought a thing like this: SSSCAT
It's a motion activated spray can. Didn't work. Cat learned to ignore it.
This solved all of my cat on a surface I don't want problems.
The way that I understand it is that cats have a problem with associating punishment to the reasons for it. Since they only get yelled at from time to time for being on the table (when you see them), they never associate the root cause. To them, you are just blowing up randomly at them.
For proper training, you have to let the environment teach them that they don't want to be there. That's why there are many suggestions to use double sided tape or tin foil on counters to keep them off. They need consistent reinforcement of "I go here, things I don't like happen."
Cats want attention, whether it be positive or negative (they don't really know the difference). If they knock things off, they get attention. If you continually give them attention for these things, they'll keep on doing it. This is why you should ignore your cat at night if they are walking on you or messing with things; if he/she knows that doing this will get attention, they'll continue doing it. You're looking at a week or two of hell from them continuing to do it, but after they realize you won't engage they'll stop.
The best remedy is to use things like the SSSCAT, which has an infrared eye and will be triggered by the cat's presence on something they shouldn't be on. If you use a spray bottle, the cat will know it's you and will see that as "I did this and got attention from him." The SSSCAT, alternatively, will give make them think "table is super scary."
Source: I have a previously dickish cat who, as a result of a strategically placed SSSCATs, wouldn't dare go anywhere near my counter, dining room table, sink, desk, or bookcase.
This cage is great value for the price, if you can afford it. It has the added bonus of being eligible for Amazon Prime. Even if you don't have it, sign up for the 30-day free trial so you can get it in a couple of days.
Regarding food, Harrison's makes organic pellets. My board-certified avian vet strongly recommends Harrison's and my birds love it. There are guidelines regarding conversion on the package itself. My birds were never on a seed diet but I did have to convert them from ZuPreem's colored pellets (side note: don't give them that, the artificial coloring and added sugars are bad. I didn't know at the time.).
I switched them cold turkey after making them some Birdie Bread. Harrison's sells a mix online that you can prepare at home. They loved it and I think the pellets smell similar, so they had no issues converting.
For fruits/veggies/etc, I had to teach my sun conure to eat them. The method I found most effective = eating whatever I want her to eat and pretending it is the most delicious thing EVER. Take a bite out of that carrot stick and make the most overexaggerated ecstatic sounds/expressions you can. Don't offer them a piece til they come over to investigate, then let them have a bite or put it in a treat dish.
For toys: mysafebirdstore.com has great prices on toy parts. Drs. Foster and Smith are another online company that occasionally has good deals. I'm wary of buying toys at pet stores due to the risk of disease transmission. Petsmart had a huge issue with psittacosis, which is transmissible to humans as well as birds.
For taming, start by spending time near them. Carry on reading/working/watching TV/whatever in the same room with them. Leave the door open to see if they want to come hang out with you. Offer them sunflower seeds or millet from your hands. This process may take a while (weeks to months, maybe longer), especially since they are already bonded.
Congrats on your new feathered friends. It looks like they've found their way into a wonderful home.
Clicker training is supposed to be great though I'm too lazy to work on it. /u/cpxh would be a good resource for that.
It’s a api test kit I got it from amazon
I just bought a 17 gallon tank Fire Aqua and a Fluval Light. The fluval light is the new bluetooth one and looks amazing. You can choose the sunrise, and sunset with your phone which automates things for you.
Here's some advice. Rocks, substrate, tools, plants, and wood is expensive. So don't be surprised at a hefty bill when you get what you want. Do some research on how much substrate you can put in the tank. I wasn't sure how thick I was able to lay it at the bottom, and I don't think I did enough. Research how you can give the tank more depth by adding height in certain areas and proper ways to do that. (Maybe lay down big rocks firs then add substrate over top) to create a mound.
Get a complete testing kit. I forgot to get one and I'm waiting for it to come in the mail. Also some ammonia to start your tank cycle when it starts to get cloudy. Info here.
Depends really what your budget is. My light costed more than the tank itself, and all the other stuff doesn't come cheap. Especially plants and decor.
Let me know if you have more questions.
It's 19.99 on Amazon too!
Okay, well first of all you need this, not the strips. The strips can be very inaccurate, and a higher price is well worth months of use and actual correctness. Second of all, is your tank cycled? Your strips don't even have an ammonia reading, so he could have died from ammonia poisoning if your tank wasn't cycled. How long was he in there? If it was more than a few weeks, it very well could have been the ammonia. If it was a few days, then something was probably in the water that was toxic, like maybe cleaning chemicals (soap) or chlorine.
I have discovered a great little sponge filter which allows you to put in ceramic beads to host good bacteria. Currently I have one in my 10 gallon with a HOB that I occasionally turn off.
The biggest factor that made me buy it was that most of the reviews were from betta owners with plenty of photos to back it up. So if you get that you will also need an air pump and the tubing. I use the recommended Tetra air pumps for 10G.
You will also really want a heater, betta fish prefer roughly 78f degrees. You will also want a substrate, I have noticed my betta fish have preferred sand over gravel. If you put some driftwood in there, it will lower your PH. Certain rocks will increase you water hardness. Lastly, get an API water test kit;
Stay away from test strips.
api liquid test kit
airline tubing for sponge filter
air pump for sponge filter
fluval spec v kit. Comes with filter, decent light that can grow some lowlight plants, idk what else but I hear it's pretty good, I would look around on other sites to find it cheaper
dechlorinator if you don't already have it
heater, I happen to live somewhere where the temperature of my tank floats right in the bettas range, but if this isn't the case for you then you'll need a heater
You'll need something for a lid, can't find anything on amazon but you have a few options: going to a petstore and looking for a 5 gallon lid, going to other websites to look, or making a DIY lid, which can be done with greenhouse panels, or even wood if you don't mind cutting.
Substrate is optional, but if you want it you can either get pool filter sand, which you can find at your local Home Depot or lowes (assuming you're in the US), you'll have to rinse it first but it's really cheap, $8 for 50lb which is more than enough.
I would buy the tank in person at a store or on some site like Craigslist where you can find used tanks for cheap
Also, don't forget to cycle your tank, if you don't know what that is I would do some research on it, it's possibly the most important thing in keeping any aquatic creature
Off the top of my head, will continue to edit to add stuff
Both pop eye and fin rot are usually caused by the same thing; bad water conditions. High ammonia, high nitrites, high nitrates, high salinity.
What are the parameters of your tank? (API Master Test Kit can be found here: https://www.amazon.com/API-FRESHWATER-800-Test-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B000255NCI )
Hoooo boy. Okay so here's the deal. You have waaaaaaaaaaaaaay too much fish for your tank. The minimum recommended size for one goldfish is about 75 liters, and it increases as you add more goldfish. For two goldfish, you'd need 113-151 liters (depends who you ask). And your filter needs to be moving 10x the capacity of the tank per hour. So for example, if you had a 75 liter tank, you'd need a filter that's moving 750 liters per hour. Anything less than that is going to cause problems.
First things first, though. Your water quality is not good. I can almost 100% guarantee it. Your tank is not large enough for your fish, and you don't have a filter, so your water is going to quickly become lethal. This isn't a scare tactic. It's the truth. This is why your new fish died. It likely already had a weakened immune system from the stress of moving, and the poor water quality quickly overwhelmed it. Goldfish are some of the messiest fish out there, thus they need a lot of water and a lot of filtration, otherwise they will literally die from breathing their own toxic water.
Don't use chemicals to regulate your water quality. You need to get a water test kit and start learning how to keep track of your water parameters yourself. As of right now (is in like, today), you should be testing your water every day, and changing 50% of it every day, and make sure you're using a water conditioner like this one every time you change the water, since tap water isn't safe for goldfish.
So, to summarize, go get at least a 75 liter tank (but larger is always better with goldfish), get at a minimum a filter that moves 750 liters per hour, get a water test kit (drip test, strips are not reliable), and get a water conditioner. Do a 50% water change every day, adding water conditioner to the new water before adding it to the tank. This stuff is all going to be expensive. But once you have it, the cost of keeping the fish is quite low. It's a small price to pay for the health and wellbeing of living, feeling animals.
If you have more questions, be sure to ask.
You need to do a fish-in cycle. Here is a guide: https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/comments/3l48fz/tifu_by_impulse_buying_a_fish_fishin_cycling/
You want water that is not lacking in minerals. If your spring water does not have minerals it's not safe to put your fish in. Tap water after conditioned is fine.
I would separate the females. The idea that they can live together is a complete lie and in a 10 gallon 3 females will absolutely shred each other. They are just as aggressive as males. Petco's fish care is a complete joke.
You need to do daily 25-50% water changes daily until your tank is cycled. After the tank is cycled, you can cut down to 1 25% change a week. Do not use test strips, they are inaccurate. You want the liquid test: https://www.amazon.com/API-FRESHWATER-800-Test-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B000255NCI/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=api+test+kit&qid=1566328093&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Also side note as most people tend to forget, but Bettas live in heavily planted areas in the wild so some plants definitely wouldn't hurt. Silk is fine but live will make maintenance easier.
A 40 gallon will be much better than a 5 gallon. Be sure to put a good filter on it. (I would choose an Aquaclear 70 if your mom isn't bringing you a filter). It will give you a lot more wiggle room since they won't get to be 12 inches overnight! People do budget stands made from cinderblocks all the time, if you're not getting a stand. I'd stick to bare bottom if you are on the budget. It's cheaper, safer, and easier to clean than any substrate would be. You can buy some cheap peel-off paint and paint the outside of the tank black and do something like this and it will look pretty luxe for not a whole lot of cash. (I would skip the live plants and do driftwood myself, since my goldfish seriously chow down on any plant life in the tank.).
For now, I would do daily 50% water changes. Drain half the water with a gravel vac like this. Add your dechlorinator (again, SeaChem Prime is the best choice, especially in a too-small tank). Add in water that is the same temperature. If you absolutely can't do a thermometer, feel the water and make sure you cannot feel ANY difference. Not perfect, but it shouldn't kill your fish. I would still strongly encourage you to buy a water test kit, since you will be doing something called fish-in cycling. The toxic ammonia and nitrite are not immediately visible, but can cause serious damage to your fish. You want your parameters to be 0ppm ammonia, 0ppm nitrite, less than 20ppm nitrate. Yours are not going to be that, and testing your water is the only reliable way to know when to do a water change, and how serious things are. The best of the reasonably priced is API Freshwater Master, which is usually around $20 on Amazon.
Unfortunately, I wish that the practice of giving away goldfish (or any live animals) as prizes was illegal, since I agree that it is absolutely not fair to you to ask you to spend hundreds and hundreds of dollars on a hobby that you didn't intentionally choose and didn't know anything about until someone gave you a life to care for, and it's certainly not fair to the fish to send them home with people who are not prepared for them! I'm glad you are working on providing a better home for your fish.
P.S. I'm always happy to talk about goldfish, so you are welcome to PM me in the future if you have more questions!
Do you have a heater? They need water that is close to 80 degrees. They need a filter, either a sponge filter or something with a gentle flow that doesn't knock them around. Do you use Prime or another water conditioner to remove chlorine when you do water changes? You'd benefit from an API test kit to make sure that your water in the tank is healthy for him.
r/bettafish can give you a lot of help. Post pics and give details about him and they will be glad to help you sort him out.
This has worked WONDERS on our stubborn little jacka...er....our lovely little feline friend.
Your problem is... you have a kitten.
Honestly, all of this sounds like a normal young cat with a lot of energy who's bored out of her mind. Different cats have different energy levels, and your mom also had multiple cats together. Your kitten is alone, so all of her entertainment comes from you or from finding things to do herself, many of which won't please you. I would check out something like this book, which is a quick, easy read and covers strategies for all of the problems you're having. In brief, here are some things to try:
Edit: I fail at Reddit formatting, apparently. ;_;
No this cage is much too small, especially for two birds If you think about it, a tiel is 12-14 inches long. Its wingspan is 15-16 inches wide. So if the goal is to get a cage that your bird can open it's wing in and ideally flap between perches in, you want something that is around 3'x2'x4.
Luckily I have just the cage for you. It's inexpensive, lightweight, mobile, and sturdy enough for a couple tiels.
Ok so this is a huge cage. it's not horribly expensive and if you have the space you would have a very happy 'tiel. This is the smallest cage that, imho, would work for a 'tiel.
You could use the other one as a sleepy-time cage. My bird sleeps in our bedroom so we have a small cage for her to sleep in.
Have you considered a foraging toy with a few treats in it between meals? Something she can knock around to get treats out of? It might help distract her from the plastic. Something like this.
Your best bet is to feed him his meals in some sort of food puzzle.
I alternate my scarfing stray between these:
And then sometimes I feed him pellet by pellet by literally just throwing his food down the hall for him to chase. He loves this, it gets him some exercise, and it forces him to eat much more slowly.
Look into getting one of these:
My cat has lost a bunch of weight with it. She hears the food as it rolls around, so she doesn't whine for more :)
I run 4 aquariums in my house and have grown indoor for a couple of years. My tanks are 80,55,15,10 gallon. I use a lot of water for those and for my plants. I use this and this for dechlor my fish water. I also use the same treated tap water for my plants. I have noticed no difference in my plants.
My dog is obsessed with his Tricky Treat Ball. It is consistently difficult for him and he's constantly picking it up and running to different areas to try and get more food. I LOVE it.
I have also tried the tug-a-jug, but my dog doesn't care for it and it's REALLY loud on hard floors. REALLY LOUD.
You say she doesn't like toys. What about food? There are all sorts of puzzle toys now that dispense food, ranging from obvious ones like kongs to treat dispensing balls to more elaborate puzzles.
How about field trips? Getting out in public, seeing and smelling new things, will be mentally stimulating even if she can only walk slowly, even if she lays down to watch the action. For example, during nice weather, go grab coffee and set up a bed under the outdoor table for her to lay on. Even if she can't walk and run for an hour every day, she can still spend an hour outside with you sometimes.
Also, for the sake of walking on slippery floors, some people to use dog boots with rubber bottoms. They're generally sold for winter wear, but people use them for boating and older dogs to give traction. If your dog tolerates them, or if you're willing to spend some time counterconditioning to help your dog enjoy them, that could be an option sometimes.
This thing. I read that cats instinctually want to drink from flowing sources, (do yours ever want to drink from the tap when you have it on?) and don't like still water that might be more dangerous to drink in the wild. They've both started drinking a lot more water since we got it.
Cats generally don't like drinking water that's next to their food. If applicable, moving the water bowl might help.
You could also buy a water dish that has a little fountain in it (like this one). Supposedly cats really like them.
Perhaps something about the tap water is off-putting.
Have you considered a fountain type water bowl?
It has a charcoal filter to help eliminate funny smells and tastes from tap water, helps the water taste fresher by keeping it circulating, and sometimes they will be attracted by the sound of running water.
My last dog drank noticeably more water after I made the switch.
I have [Newfoundlands] (http://imgur.com/d9wVa2k) ... two of them to be exact... and they can be a real bear to walk. I have [gentle leaders] (http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Gentle-Leader-Headcollar-Large/dp/B00074L4W2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1398204696&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=gentle+leader), which are awesome at making them easy to handle for me. The two dogs outweigh me considerably, and they both have learned to mind very well while walking with these on. I take them off when we are at home and all is well. You should try them out, they work much better than the choke collar without the fear of hurting your dog.
A gentle leader is amazingly effective at reducing pulling. My dog went from pulling nonstop to walking with a loose leash. It does take some time for them to get used to it, though.
Is it perhaps a head collar and not a full blown muzzle? I use a head collar on my lab cause she pulls when she's excited; its just a strap over her nose and around the back of her head, leash hooks under the mouth. Mine would also never hurt someone but it does keep her from opening her mouth enough to bite.
Edit: I only ask because people often think she's wearing a muzzle or ask why my dog wearing a muzzle when she's really not.
If you get a second cat you've got to name it Tomato.
No advice on whether or not to get a second cat, but on entertaining your cat when they're home alone:
-Leave the TV on Animal Planet
-Get some treat balls or puzzles to hide in different places around the house every day
-Rotate which toys are out instead of having them all out at once. That way they stay new and exciting.
-Get your kitty some nice window perches so she can look out the window.
I don't know about the bowl, but this works pretty well for my cats. The chubby one has been losing weight, and the other one can't eat it all too fast now.
Find a good vet and positive reinforcement trainer or take classes still positive reinforcement. Makes sure to crate train. Be consistent with all training everyday. Give lots of mental mad physical stimulus during day. In morning before you leave house talk potty walk and play to use some energy up. Make training fun, exercise some before you start will help them pay attention to you. Which every way you go class or trainer you must still work with your dog daily between the sessions. Being consistent is the only way they will learn what is expected. Only working onece a week isn't going to help.
Understand dogs do not know what we expect of them and must be taught. Again be consistent use redirecting for bad behavior giving a positive experience.
Potty training again make it fun and make a solid routine. If caught in house simply sternly say "no out" and walk outside. I'd suggest bell training to ring every time you go out with out command also give dog a way to say I need out. When goes outside be excited with lots of love and treats. I'd buy a small carpet clean, use enxyme ceeaner with it, for messes they can happen when change causes stress.
They are perpetual toddlers who will always need us including entertainment. You've got this wihh everyone here to help when we can.
Also a week not hearing from a rescue is not ghosting you. They stay busy with many run by volunteers. Sometimes it takes a little bit for them to go over everything before making a choice and other people are also interested.
I am glad it worked out and you have you new family member.
A few toys ideas:
UOLIWO Dog Treat Dispensing Toy, Duck Dog Toy Squeak Dog Treat Puzzle Toy Durable Plush Chew Toys for Small Medium Large Dogs Training Playing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N2NLBQ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Xl7LDbJTMP3F3
AWOOF Dog Puzzle Toys, Pet Snuffle Mat for Dogs, Interactive Feed Game for Boredom, Encourages Natural Foraging Skills for Cats Dogs Bowl Travel Use, Dog Treat Dispenser Indoor Outdoor Stress Relief https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1JYYCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ym7LDb7DCBKCJ
Our Pets IQ Treat Ball Interactive Food Dispensing Dog Toy (ASSORTED COLOR) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003ARUKTG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_in7LDb9AX6C5Q
Trixie Dog Activity Flip Board Strategy Game (9.05 inch) (Multicolored) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076MGW9RM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Fn7LDbBAQ1KAK
The Trixie has tons of different ones.
We have 5:
Maze Treat Dispenser
IQ Treat Ball
Buster Food Cube
We use his kibble in these but will add treats cut up to pea-size or ham, chicken, etc also cut up along with the kibble.
Rambo eats both of his meals out of a puzzle toy.
We also have black Kongs that I put stuff in (kibble, rice, veggies, etc) , plug with some peanut butter or EZ cheese, pour some chicken broth into and then freeze
Im sure you already read all about them but Gentle Leaders are fantastic for leash training a dog. They don't act like a muzzle so the dog can still eat, drink, bark, ect while wearing them but they provide just enough pressure on the muzzle when they pull that the dog quickly learns not to pull while on a leash.
I adopted both of my dogs at the ages of 1 and 2, so they were full grown and already strong as hell (boxer/bullmastiff mixes are super strong for their size), and the gentle leader was a key tool I used to help them learn leash manners.
They hated them at first and spent the first 5 minutes trying to paw it off their muzzle but they quickly got used to wearing it and after 2 weeks completely stopped pulling while they were on a leash.
I no longer use the gentle leader and instead use this harness with the leash attached to both the harness and their collar. But I also keep 2 gentle leaders in our "emergency kit" along with an extra tandem leach attachment. The emergency kit is a kit I have put together in case something crazy like a fire or tornado happens and I need to be able to control them both at the same time when things are going crazy around us. It also includes extra meds for the one dog on a daily medication as well as enough food for 3 days.
My cat did this when he was a baby too. I put him in the bathroom at night after the first few days. He cried for a bit, but was fine and all happy in the clothes basket when I went in to shower in the morning . :)
Cats aren't supposed to like citrus, but nothing has really turned him away from me. Just be careful with Tea Tree oil, it is very toxic to cats! Enjoy your new baby(pictures please :3)! At that age, mine was jumping on me because he wanted to play and I toss and turn under the covers, which makes it like a game to get whats under the covers. My SO sleeps like a rock with the covers pulled up over him. What also might help is getting a toy and playing with him until he is SUPER tired. http://www.amazon.com/GoCat-Apart-Feather-Assorted-Colors/dp/B000F9JJJE this is the ONLY toy that our cats will freak out over(some stores sell it too!). Our fatty will not play unless it's this, he really likes the mouse attachment and will chase it up our hallways. I have never seen my cat jump so high! Wear him out until he won't get up again before bed, give him some food, then he should go to be for a bit and give you some time to sleep. Jackson Galaxy's show is interesting(he does the play/food/sleep thing and it's the only thing that stops our cats from crying at our door at night).
Sorry if this is all unsolicited XD I am a crazy cat lady and I went through some hell with mine for a bit. He is my best little friend through and I wouldn't trade him for the world. :)
Hey! I had this same issue! My cat took up chewing on cords in order to motivate me when I tried to ignore her... so I had to replace several computer mice and headphones :(
I've FINALLY found a solution that prevents them from waking me up at 5am every morning! PLAY!
Seriously, play with your cat (we have great success with this thing) until they're panting right before bed. Then play immediately when you get up at normal time and feed them then.
I usually feed my cats around 7:30 am when I get up for work and again around 6pm when I am home from work. I play with them vigorously before each feeding session, and they've even come to expect it and enjoy it (they bring me the toy, for example).
It took about 10 days for it to REALLY kick in but oh my god it totally worked. It went from being woken up constantly starting around 5am to them sleeping with us soundly until my alarm goes off. It's a miracle.
If your cat is into vertical scratching then I recommend the Smartcat Ultimate Scratching Post. I bought one 3 years ago when I adopted my cat and it still looks good. Yes, it is pricy but I looked at it as an investment. It's the only cat scratching post that I've bought in 3 years except for a toy, the Bergan Turbo Toy, that came with a cardboard scratch pad. The cardboard insert was long ago destroyed but I haven't bothered replacing it because my cat prefers the Smartcat post anyway. The post looks good and is really sturdy. My cat has only managed to tip it over once when she went crazy and performed a wall (post) jump off of it.
Same here, but I got mine (and her two other feline housemates) the Drinkwell Platinum because I thought it looked the most like a faucet, ha. She was scared of it for a few days because she's a weirdo but she loves it now :)
When I first adopted my cat, she got really sick, vomited foam, and started to act lethargic. I called the vet and he said that she was probably dehydrated - that she had probably learned to stay away from standing water during her days as a stray, and to turn the tap on and see if she'd drink.
I couldn't coax her out from under the table to bring her to the sink, so I crawled under there with her and slowly poured water from one bowl into another as she slowly lapped from the stream between them. After an hour of that, she stood up and crawled into my lap. Best buds ever since :)
I bought one of these the next day, and she loves it!
I have a puker. Things that really improved his pukeyness was a cat supplement that helps them with their gut. (Links below) Its advertised to help with poop issues, but will definitely help with puke issues as well.
You also need to make sure that there is NO grains in his/her food. Cats shouldn't have any grains in their food. Lots of cheap pet food use that as filler. Secondly, a lot of cheap food uses sub par ingredients. Check your cats food for chicken by product. It's bad for them. Its basically all the parts left over from taking the good stuff from the chicken. Wikipedia defines it as "It is made from grinding clean, rendered parts of poultry carcasses and can contain bones, offal and undeveloped eggs, but only contains feathers that are unavoidable in the processing of the poultry parts." Sounds pretty yucky, huh? You wouldn't eat it, so why should you feed it to your cat?
Crappy cat foods use a ton of fillers that are basically the equivalent to a bag of cheetos to humans.
Switch to a brand that is grain free and uses whole meats such as the wellness I linked below. Blue buffalo is also a good alternative. Do you feed your cat wet food? If not, try feeding a good wet food (Linked below). My cats love the core wellness wet food and really eating wet food is better than an all dry diet.
All this stuff is a little pricey, but its worth it in the long run. Taking him to the vet all the time is probably more expensive than switching to a better food. Do it slowly as well, like over a week or two.
Basically anything you can find in your grocery store's pet isle you shouldn't be feeding your pet. Its all junk. Even the "high end" purnia foods. Junk. I know purina makes a sensitive stomach formula for cats. I tried it and it didn't help my furry little puke machine at all. All these crappy foods don't really fill your cat up as much as a good food will so they will be hungrier more often because the quality of the food is just crap.
How I solved my cat puke problem was feeding them wet food in the morning and evening and leaving out a small bowl of dry food for them to snack on throughout the day. If your cat isn't really super hungry than they will eat a bit slower and that'll keep her from throwing up. Some cats don't handle the self regulating diet and instead just end up eating more food, so figure out if your cat(s) can handle grazing between wet food meals.
You can also try getting a cat water fountain and placing it somewhere separate from their water. Cats are weird and don't like their water near their food. Cats get most of their water from their food but having a flowing water source can really help them up their water intake. If cats don't get enough water they are prone to developing kidney and bladder problems. The Drinkwell Platinum Pet Fountain is really good. I have mine in my bathroom and my cats really enjoy playing with the water and getting their paws wet and licking them etc etc.
As for the stains, the stain remover I linked below is a god send. It's a good product that cleans up stains really well. It even does cat pee. I have light carpets and this stuff takes it right out and leaves no marks behind. It should even work on your old stains, you just have to leave it a little longer.
I know all this stuff adds up to a ton of money but its so worth it not to have to clean up cat puke all the time. I did a ton of research for my puke machine and he went from puking 3-4 times a week to puking maybe every 3 months and then its usually just a hairball. His coat also looked better and he was softer.
Let me know if you have any questions. I'd be happy to help you figure this out and field any more questions about how I solved my cats puke problems.
Core Wellness Wet Food
Cat Nutritional Supplements
This is the one I have. Cats don't like to drink still water, so a fountain encourages them to drink more. That helps prevent kidney failure, one of the most common causes of death for cats.
You can use regular compressed air cans instead of branded replacements to save money.
You can try a ssscat device, you can buy it online and possibly at a local pet store. It is motion sensored so when it cat comes near it will put out a puff of air and it won't go into your room. We use it to keep the cats away from our door at night or they will lick our faces when we sleep.
Here is a link to amazon and reviews https://www.amazon.com/HunterShop-KIT19001-PetSafe-SSScat/dp/B000RIA95G
I've used one before, 20 bucks well spent:
We had a thing called a Sssscat
Booby trap your windows with cans of SSSCAT. You'd just need to find a way to fix them in place.
Buy tank separately, filters, heaters, and lights that come with tanks tend to be low quality so buy separately. I'd say go with 10 gallon for two reasons.
I buy all my supplies on amazon cause i have prime and it's cheaper, i'm a college student so cheapness is everything. This is a good cheap filter and this is a good heater i also recommend a digital thermostat cause it's easier to read the temp rather than squinting your eyes to see the tab thermostats.
marineland portrait I got it on amazon for 50$ last year. It’s 77$ now, I believe petco has it on their website for cheaper
We recently got this 5 gallon tank for our betta. It’s portrait style so the footprint is smaller and doesn’t take up much space.
MarineLand 5 gallon aquarium
Too small for a bristlenose, and you want 6 neons (this tank is too small for them as well). I don't know much about kuhli loaches, but this is probably a tight fit for them too.
This is also a very, very heavy stocking for a 13.7 gallon aquarium. As this is your first tank, I highly suggest going for a small stock and getting a feel for it - solving problems with a low bioload is much easier, and will give you much needed practice for when things occur down the road.
I would recommend that you get solely a male betta for now. Your decor choice is good, and I applaud you for going with sand over gravel. It's much better, objectively.
If you can find them at your local fish store (LFS), pick up some Malaysian trumpet snails (MTS). They'll aerate the substrate and cycle waste into the sand, as well as eat uneaten food and decaying plant matter.
In terms of filtration, you could probably get away with an air pump and a sponge. If you have a fair chunk of money to dedicate to this aquarium, my filter of choice for tanks under 15 gallons is the ZooMed 501. If that is outside of your budget, an AquaClear 20 would be great. I would have the outflow disperse over your driftwood to avoid churning up your sand. If you need creative ideas, feel free to post here again and we can help you figure something out. The primary advantage of the canister is that it is dead silent, and comes with a spray bar which greatly helps to disperse the flow (bettas do not appreciate lots of flow in their environment).
I would do your damnedest to keep the tank out of sunlight, as this will contribute to rampant algae problems. It should have a dedicated light. You can purchase a clamp light and 6500K CFL bulb from home depot for about $15 total. Very wise investment, and this allows you to grow plants!
You need to keep the tank (for a Betta) at 78-80F. If your ambient temperature is not this, you will require a heater. My personal favourite heater for small aquariums are manufactured by Hydor. Aim for 50W for the set up. Here is a link to one.
There is a very good link regarding cycling in the sidebar. It can be found here.
While I do not know your water's composition, I would still recommend treating it with SeaChem Prime. This helps out with some heavy metals as well. While I am not sure if it will benefit you, it is fairly cheap and you'll get a ton of uses out of it for the cost. Hopefully someone with a similar water source to yours will chime in, as I myself am on municipal supply and must dechlorinate my water.
Earlier when I mentioned lighting, I mentioned plants. These are a great addition to your aquarium and your fish will appreciate them. For beginner plants, I would recommend looking into Anubias and Java Fern. They do not grow in substrate, but rather on decor and can be fastened to your driftwood with zip ties or string. They absorb nutrients from the water column, helping to clean your tank while providing refuge for your fish. I would also recommend a floating plant, as it will dim the lights and provide your betta with cover. Frogbit is great, and very cheap in my experience. It grows very well. None of these plants require you to do ANYTHING extra aside from get that light I mentioned. There are fancier alternatives, but they are not necessary for this set up with the above plants. I highly recommend setting your lights up on a timer and keeping them on for 8 hours a day. If you notice algae, reduce light.
I hope this helps. If you have anymore questions feel free to let me know. Really great of you to come and ask for advice BEFORE purchasing an animal, kudos to you.
Be sure to check out /r/bettafish and /r/plantedtank. Within you'll find lots of guides and extremely knowledgeable people. I would highly recommend reading the majority of links from the side bar in those two subreddits, as well as this one. There's a trove of information at your disposal. Here's a link to /r/Aquariums' wiki.
Finally, here's a care sheet specifically about Bettas!
Hopefully that wasn't too long winded for you. Best of luck in the hobby.
Craigslist is your friend.
So is making a lot of the things yourself. (diy!)
For a start, here's a good site for making your own stand.
Discus are not really a good starter aquarist fish..... They need pristine water conditions and a very exact pH. I don't entirely recommend that particular fish for you at this time. But if you do decide on them, good luck. They are a lot of hard work, but can be a very rewarding fish.
Seriously, if you have the skills, make your own filter. It's possible, and fucktons cheaper than anything you're going to get new. Your best bet for filters would be to make/buy a canister filter or to make a sump for your tank. Protip for sumps: Build your tank stand around the design of your sump. You'll save yourself a lot of heartache in the long run.
I can tell you, for buying a brand new 75 gallon tank and everything that I needed for it, was over 1200$. And that wasn't even with super awesome filters, which is what you're going to need. (Although I love the ones I have, they just wouldn't cut it for Discus.) So yes, you're going to want to seriously craigslist for the things you want, or make them yourself. You'll get the most bang for your buck that way, I promise. So yes, realistically and for what you want, you're going to need to buy used and make everything else yourself. Especially with your budget, and the fact that you just can't get the Discus fish themselves cheaply. If you make everything, they could potentially be the most expensive part of your setup.
Please switch to chemical testings for your water parameters. The test strips are not nearly as accurate, and you'll want to know exactly what's up with your water if you really want those Discus. For the most part, this is the best kit you can get. You'll thank me in the long run.
For 4 Discus and friends, you're going to need AT LEAST a 55 gallon aquarium, and even then, I think that's too small. I've never actually had them though, but be warned. It will be a large tank.
If you want to plant the tank (Do Discus tear up plants? That one I don't know.) you're going to want to go with the Walstad Method. You'll get the best plant growth, for the least amount of work. And the cheapest. AND you might even be able to skip out entirely on CO2 dosing. If you do want to CO2 dose, there are a billion ways to make a reactor thingy from scratch, and could potentially cost you less than 10$. The only problem with those though, is unless you built one into the system, you don't entirely have a way to perfectly and minutely adjust your control, and you don't want to blow out your tank. CO2 reactors are also not cheap, but if you want to buy one, this is apparently one of the best you can get.
You could always start collecting and building all the pieces your going to need, but since you're moving so soon (and because you're going to want to completely cycle your tank before fish, seriously, picky Discus) you most likely better off waiting until after you move to set it up. Like I said though, might as well start making and collecting the pieces for it now.
Hopefully, I think I've covered all your questions. If not, feel free to ask. :)
You mean pumps? Yes there are pumps that can lift water into your aquarium...
That being said, the Python water changer is a highly popular product for simplifying water changes.. Just run a mix of warm/cold water into the tank when you top up.
Doesn't have to be exactly the same temp, so long as the tank isn't swinging around wildly in temperature.. A few degrees either way is OK...
Well, then you'll love this even more.
Ever tried one of these out? They make water changes way easier
if you want to keep track of parameters get this. https://www.amazon.com/API-Freshwater-Master-Test-Kit/dp/B000255NCI as for filtration i would just get a super small sponge filter to use in place of your airstone like this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DT1XXJW/ref=sxbs_sxwds-stvp_3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_p=3171424582&amp;pd_rd_wg=YSSS6&amp;pf_rd_r=SP3Q161R7EV6JCMT1THS&amp;pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&amp;pf_rd_t=301&amp;pd_rd_i=B00DT1XXJW&amp;pd_rd_w=rOp3K&amp;pf_rd_i=mini+aquarium+sponge+filter&amp;pd_rd_r=68WZ029GH257ZD7YAPA0&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504099606&amp;sr=3 you can tuck it back on the corner and the shrimp will absolutely love to feed on it. just make sure your tank is cycled before adding any shrimp to it.
Just take your time. I always see people trying to rush this stage and end up failing miserably. Also the strips arent very accurate, try these instead. oh and keep soaking the driftwood its most likely leaching tannins.
You need at least a liquid test kit. This will have the ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, and ph tests you need. You can get a GH/KH test and TDS meter, but those aren't as essential as the aforementioned unless you're keeping higher-grade shrimp.
EDIT: I would not get the test strips... they are notorious for being inaccurate. I have tried using them before, so I am speaking from experience. The liquid test kits are much, much better and impossible to screw up if you follow the directions.
I hear test strips aren’t very accurate, I would recommend the API Master Test Kit
Also with the food freeze dried isn’t great, I would recommend frozen bloodworms or at least the Fluval Bug Bites
Also how often are you doing water changes?
I would say to fast him for a couple days and see if that helps.
You shouldn't add new fish without quarantining them - especially when you suspect there's an issue in the tank. Don't add any more right now.
When in doubt, water changes are a good idea so that was a good move.
Is the tank temperature okay and is it possible you forgot to use a dechlorinator to treat tap water? Could any chemicals have been introduced from your hands, aquarium equipment, room sprays, etc.? Are the filter and heater working, and is the filter media overdue for a cleaning?
You should really get a water testing kit. The $22 API test kit is better than strips and more cost-effective long term. A fish store can test your water for free too. Without testing you can only guess what's happening in the water, and something's clearly wrong. I'd bring in a sample ASAP and pick up a test kit.
Okay, you have my attention. Is this hose all I need? https://www.amazon.com/Python-Aquarium-Maintenance-System-50-Feet/dp/B000255NXC?th=1&amp;psc=1
Oh dear. Is this your first big fish tank? Or first fish tank?
I would highly recommend getting a Python Water changer. It is a little pricy but it is worth the cost.
Other things you will probably need with your python for doing water changes/filling the tank.
- Some 5 gallon buckets from home depot (Great for all sorts of things, they just come in handy in the hobby, a must-have) Very cheap
- A Digital thermometer for water to help temperature match to your tank before adding the water.
- A fish saver cover for your python water changer to help you save fish when you're doing a water change.
Sounds like the tank is not cycled. Do you have an established tank that you can take water from? If not, I'm not sure what you can do. I hear seachem prime is a great detoxifier.
Nothing fancy. A basic "hang-over-back" filter is all you need. Make sure to get one rated for your size tank! If you get one that's too big, you'll create way too much flow in the tank and it will tire out the fishies. This one on Amazon is rated for a 10-gallon tank.
Again, nothing fancy. You just need a basic heater for your size tank. Don't get an "adjustable" heater because those take time to calibrate. Just get a "pre-set" heater. Pre-set heaters always keep the tank at about 78-degrees, which is perfect for guppies. Again, don't get one that's too big or too small. Too big will heat the tank too quickly and too small means the heater will get over-worked and eventually wear out. This one on amazon is good for a 10-gal tank as well.
Tap water often contains chlorine to keep bacteria from growing in the pipes and making people sick. Its a safe level for humans, but it kills anything that lives in water (e.g., fish and plants). Water conditioner contains chemicals that neutralize the chlorine in tap water, making it safe for fishies again. Just follow the instructions on the bottle. Its OK to add the conditioner straight to the tank itself. As long as you have a filter circulating the water, it'll quickly make the water safe for fish and plants again. This is the water conditioner I use in my tanks.
Employees at these stores often give some really stupid advice for more complicated issues, like the best way to make your plants grow or how to breed fancy fish, but they usually do an OK job with recommending the most basic stuff like a heaters, filter, and water conditioner. Its really hard to fuck this up because all of these products say what size tank they're rated for right on the box. Just double-check to make sure you're buying a product made for your size tank.
Once you have these three things, just follow the instructions that came with each product. Its super straight-forward. When you finally have all of this set up, come back here and we can give you some more advice for the long-term care of your guppies.
EDIT: Just to add a few things. The most likely culprit at the moment is either the chlorine in the tap water or the water temperature. If you used tap water and you didn't treat it, the chlorine that's often in the water is probably burning the guppies gills and making it harder and harder for them to breathe.
If you did treat the water or if you're using filtered/well water, then the next most harmful condition is the cold temperature. Guppies are tropical fish and will die if left in cold water for too long. They can survive for a little while in cold water, but they'll eventually die if you don't get the water into the high-70s.
Finally, the least likely problem right now is the lack of a filter. Fish excrete their waste directly into the water and over the course of a few days the tank will gradually buildup a concentration of ammonia. This ammonia will poison the fishies when the concentration get's too high. Conveniently, there are bacteria all over the place that love to eat ammonia and turn it into a less toxic chemical called nitrate, which is very safe for fish even at high concentrations. The filter provides a medium for these bacteria to grow and constantly circulates the water through the bacteria colony so the bacteria can constantly turn ammonia into nitrate. Once the bacteria colony is established, they convert the ammonia into nitrate faster than the fish can excrete more ammonia, effectively keeping the concentration of ammonia at a constant zero. All you need to do to culture a colony of ammonia-eating bacteria is to set the filter up using the instructions that came with the filter. Nature will do the rest: The bacteria are everywhere, so once the filter is going those bacteria will move in to the filter and start growing all on their own. Another benefit of the filter is that it oxygenates the water column. This is important for tanks with lots of fish, but because you only have two guppies, lack of oxygen probably isn't an issue.
The rust from the clip could definitely be a factor, but I would bet that ammonia toxicity is the likely culprit.
Please take a moment to read these 2 links:
The main takeaway from this is cycling your tank. Your betta "exhales" ammonia through its gills and its decomposing waste gives off ammonia. Ammonia is EXTREMELY toxic to fish and can easily kill them. Some of the first symptoms are fin rot and lack of appetite. When a tank is cycled you have a colony of good bacteria growing in your filter. Your filter pumps water through these bacteria and they convert the ammonia to nitrite(less toxic, but still toxic), then they convert the nitrite to nitrate. Nitrate is pretty "non-toxic" compared to ammonia and nitrite, but if it builds up too much it can hurt your fish. Most people do a 25%-50% water change every week to keep the nitrate from building up too much.
A second take away is your tank needs to be heated, a betta needs to be in the range of 75-80F, with 78F being the agreed upon optimal temp. I don't think your tank includes a heater is why I mention this. I not sure the best way to get a heater into it, looks like that may be difficult. EDIT: Looks like this user was able to had a heater. (http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R25RHCBC3WB1Z2/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&amp;ASIN=B00CN52TRM)
Regardless of whats going on, you will need a product like get a product like (https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116043304-Prime-500ml/dp/B00025694O/ref=sr_1_1?rps=1&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468413904&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=prime+water+conditioner). It will detoxify ammonia for 24 hours after dosing, please will make "new" water safe for your first. It also removes harmful chlorine and chloramines found in tap water, and can also detoxify metals.
So now, what to do with this knowledge? You will need to do several water changes to correct the rusty water and potential ammonia toxicity. First thing is to verify that your water is high in ammonia. You can either by a test kit like (https://www.amazon.com/API-Freshwater-Master-Test-Kit/dp/B000255NCI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468413667&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=api+master+test+kit), or take a sample of your water to a local pet store and they will test it for free. You want to test this water before you do any water changes. The reason for this is sometime if the water is REALLY BAD and the ammonia is high and the PH is low, the ammonia can be less toxic. Then you do a 50% water change, half the ammonia is still there but BOOM the PH is back up in the normal range and this make the ammonia SUPER toxic again and could shock and kill your fish very quickly.
If you verify the ammonia is high, Do you could:
If your ammonia is NOT high, you can simply:
And as a final though, if the fin rot isn't associated with ammonia or the rust, one of the best treatments for it is super pristine water. So doing a 25-50% water change (with dechlorinated water) daily until it resolves would be a good course of action.
EDIT: I seem to have overlooked something. If your ammonia is high, that means your tank isn't cycled yet and that you don't have a good strong colony of beneficial bacteria. So after getting the ammonia and nitrite level down, you will need to test for ammonia and nitrite DAILY and be sure you are doing daily water changes of a size large enough to keep the ammonia/nitrite very near zero (less than 0.25PPM) and that the water is always treated with prime. Once the bacteria take over you will see the ammonia and nitrite will stay at dead zero and nitrates will rise. At that point you will only need to do water changes large enough to keep nitrates below 10PPM. This is usually 25%-50% weekly as stated above.
I know you are worried about your betta, but with a few steps, I think he may be able to recover. Best of luck!
He might stand a chance if he gets into a larger body of clean, conditioned water and you step up water changes.
If the fish is in a small vase, ammonia levels will build up very fast, which means he would need his water changed daily. I can see where you’re coming from but the acute stress of a new tank would be less damaging than the ongoing stress of living in dirty water. It has been slowly killing him and making him more weak. Imagine how you’d feel entering a warm, clean room after being in a freezing cold one with smoggy air. You’d instantly feel better even if it was unfamiliar.
They can survive in small water quantities but that doesn’t mean they will do well or live their proper life span. They are only meant to survive in puddles to get to bigger puddles, and make it to the next rain which brings fresh water.
I would say get him into a new, minimal 5 gallon container ASAP! Get a 5 gallon tote from a store if you can’t get a tank right away. It’s better than what he’s in. You can probably find a kit that comes with tank, and filter together.
Change out 20-50% of that water daily. Use a gravel vaccum to suck up the waste. Make sure you add enough conditioner for the whole tank, not just what you’re adding.
After that, read up on the nitrogen cycle, which should be enough to convince you to get a filter. A ~$5 sponge filter is fine and has a low current. You’d need an air pump and tubing for that. Or just get a canister filter. Like i said you can probably find a kit at a pet store that has light, filter etc for a good deal.
If you plan to fish-in cycle definitely make sure you have Prime, Stability and a liquid API test kit
Amazon has them, pet shops too.
Also a heater is important. High 70s-82 is the best for their little cold-blooded bodies.
Most importantly yes, your instinct is correct, get him into a bigger tank. Good luck!
I’ll edit and link some of the stuff I mentioned.
Your parameters are vital information, because unclean water could be causing this lethargy. What's your ammonia and nitrite level? If you don't have a test kit already, most local fish stores will test a sample for you.
How old is the tank, and how often do you perform water changes?
Meanwhile, north of the border, test kits are still $50. +15%
I love you Canada, but damn pet-keeping hurts :')
You really need to get a proper test kit. It is probably the most important tool in aquarium care. The API Master Kit is affordable, and will last a long, long time. I agree with above, it sounds like a swim bladder issue - but fish will also surface if they don't like the water quality. Are the other fish displaying any strange behavior?
First, welcome, I hope you enjoy this subreddit we have. The first thing to know is the nitrogen cycle. You MUST understand this like the back of your hand before getting a fish, otherwise the fish wont be happy, or it might die. Figure out what your tap water is, in terms of pH, and other things in the water. To test this water you will need a test kit. A really high quality and highly recommended one is this. You can also use test strips but I dont know any good ones. Secondly, the smaller aquarium you have, the harder it is to maintain stable parameters. Stable parameters means happy fish. A good small starter aquarium is a 10 gallon for $10 at petco. With a filter, light, HEATER <---(All of these are needed), it should be around $30-$40. Remember, this is a pet, take care of it. Yes, you can buy fish online, I would do some research and see if there are of good quality. Another thing to be aware of is maintenance. Maintenance includes water changes and overall health of the aquarium. Do some research to make sure you have a cycled aquarium (cycling refers to the nitrogen cycle, that needs to be monitored). Aquarium fish cannot live from just straight tap water, which means you need a water dechlorinator such as this. In summary, to keep a fish alive and healthy/happy you need: heater, proper size aquarium, filter, light,water dechlorinator, and basic knowledge of the nitrogen cycle.
The API Master Freshwater test kit is the go to for most aquarium-keepers here. They work better/more accurately than strip tests. Your list is pretty good in terms of what to measure.
Please be careful that you do this in a way that doesn't harm the fish.
For goldfish, you should ideally have a 20 gallon tank for just 1 fancy goldfish and a high flow filter because goldfish are messy. Instead, I'd recommend zebra danio. They're hardier, more active (which means more fun to watch), and you could have many in a 20 gallon tank, but you'd still need a filter, as well as a heater since danio are tropical.
How much time does she have before the project is due? People here tend to advocate for a "fishless cycle" since ammonia and nitrites are toxic to the fish and will stress them. If you have a couple months, I would do a fishless cycle where you add ammonia and you watch for the bacteria to develop to turn that ammonia into nitrites and nitrates. If you have less time but know someone with a tank or a local fish store, then you can ask for filter media from an established tank which will help jump start the cycle, then you might be looking at under a month (depending on how much filter media you get).
If you really want to do "fish-in cycling" the zebra Danio are pretty hardy and can probably handle it, but this subreddit doesn't tend to support fish-in cycling since the ammonia and nitrates can be bad for the fish, so again, try to ask for filter media from a friend/store.
If she wants some other stuff to talk about/try to create a plan to measure: plants use nitrates from the aquarium water. Maybe study aquaponic systems and compare a plant watered with plain water compared to a plant watered with nitrate-containing aquarium water. Still requires a cycled aquarium though :)
Feel free to ask any other/follow up questions and I'll do my best to help!
Sponge filters are the best for shrimp. It's only $2.81 cents shipped.
Here a amazon link where to buy it:
Here a youtube link about it:
But you do need an air pump for it.
The shrimp will glaze off the sponge and it will help encourage breeding.
I would not recommend no filter unless your tank is heavy planted but water movement is beneficial to spread out nutrients/co2 to plants.
It's not bad, but I would HIGHLY recommend that you get a larger aquarium, at least five gallons. For example. It is even on sale and comes with an overflow filter. A larger tank ensures that the betta will have enough space to swim and help you to maintain the tank as a larger volume of water is more forgiving in terms of water parameters. Also I would get different plants, this is because the ones that you listed are plastic and plastic plants will often have sharp edges that could damage the long fins of a betta. Instead get silk plants as they won't damage the fins. Also with the gravel you are getting, it is a very small amount, so either get more bags of it or go to your lfs, petco, petsmart or even walmart and see for yourself. Also the water conditioner you are planning to get is only 50mL which is really small, you might as well get a medium sized bottle instead of having to buy multiple small ones, save some $$. But otherwise everything is good.
Also, since this is your first aquarium, please do lots of research(if you already have then great). Especially look into "how to cycle your aquarium"
Sorry for writing so much lol.
We had a food problem at our house, too. I have 4 cats and one of them was my "gorger". Our vet recommended these to stop the scarfing. They work beautifully!!
That, and slo-bowls
And Puzzle Bowls
Keeps them all from scarfing it down so they eat slower, eat less, and don't "scarf & barf". It also reduced the desperation for food at meal time.
My big-fat-fatty cat went from a 16 lb black bowling ball to a 12.5 lb cuddle factory :)
As far as the scratching goes, if the stairs are carpeted, I recommend using "sticky paws". It's basically thick strips of double-sided tape. Cats HATE it and move on to scratch less annoying... like their designated scratching posts/pads. Eventually she'll just give up on the stairs altogether.
As for the meowing, I'm afraid I can't really help too much. There could be a whole bunch of reasons for that. What I can tell you is that adult cats typically only meow to communicate with humans. She definitely wants your attention, but I couldn't tell you why. Maybe she's still stressed trying to settle in; maybe she's stressed seeing you upset at her (trust me, they pick up on it), or maybe you've got a chatterbox who's comfortable enough in her new home to come out of her shell a bit more ( happened with my fat boy).
Either way, I hope peace can be returned to your home soon! Good luck!
Get a [sponge] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LL32RY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_zLL2wbKA1P1B7) like the kind they use for sponge filters or a pre-filter like the one I linked and put it on your filter intake and that'll keep it from being a problem.
EDIT: I was on mobile and my link was formatted incorrectly lol.
An intake guard is a necessity with shrimp.
The big ones may have a chance to escape, but any shrimplets are sure to get sucked in.
They come in stainless steel mess as well, which look nicer, but the sponge type give shrimp a nice biofilm grazing spot.
Sorry about your shrimp.
Fluval Spec 3
Best tank I've ever used. Built-in 3-stage filter concealed in the back, plus space for a 25w heater in the same compartment the pump is in.
If you get this tank I reccomend two things:
Get a Fluval Pre-filter sponge to place over the pump-output to diffuse the current
Set the pump to the lowest possible flow (It's still pretty strong so that's why you'll need the pre-filter sponge)
I would suggest using Fluval EDGE Pre-Filter Sponge. It slips over the nozzle creating all the turbulence in your tank. I use it on my spec v and have no problems.
Maybe a toy you put food in? Mine likes her food out all the time as well so she can pick at it, but if I put it in a toy she loves to knock it around and get little rewards. It's like a job, or a puzzle, it makes her feel accomplished and it's fun! I only mention it since she's making a lot of noise with one right now.
We have this and this and this and few ones with flippy little doors and whatnot that are good for holding a snack. It might be too stressful and frustrating for him at first, but if you stick with it and show him how it works he might take to it. Best wishes to your doggos!
Treat dispensing toys, puzzles, flirt pole (puppy can play with this some but no jumping or sharp turns), kongs, crate, training treats, blankets, enzymatic cleaner. And beanie babies for my dog that is obsessed with them :P
You can also get food/bully sticks/antlers on amazon but I usually order them from chewy.com
Here are some of our favorite training treat brands.
Treat dispensing toy examples
I literally just made a post last night about puzzle toys! I'll go ahead and paste it here:
>I'm just going to start listing off puzzle toys that I like since I don't know which ones you'd used before.Kong toys are excellent ways to stimulate using food. You can also try food puzzles, such as the IQ Ball or Trixie Pet products. Snuff mats can also be helpful, if your dog likes to "forage" for food.
>Licking and chewing can also relieve stress. There's a lick mat that I recently found that my pups really love. You can put something like peanut butter or yogurt on it, freeze it, and my dogs go at it for 30 minutes. For chewing, you can look at variety of different things, such a bully sticks, chew toys, Himalayan dog chews, etc. My dogs like all of the above, but the longest lasting chews for them are Benebones.
>Search high and low for these types of toys and puzzles. You can often find discounted pet toys at Marshalls or Ross, if you have these types of stores near you. I know they can be kind of expensive, but a good brand will last forever, and for my dogs, they've been great investments!
>You can also make your own games, if you'd rather not purchase toys. Hide treats under plastic cups and tell [your dog] to "go find!" You can play hide-and-go-seek around the home. For a DIY toy, put treats in a muffin tin and cover each tin with a tennis ball for him to remove. If he is comfortable with these in the house, you can take these types of games outside, too.
As for helping your dog figure them out, I think you just kind of go with the flow. Show your dog, if he's having trouble, and be patient -- if he's not accustomed to figuring out puzzles, he's going to have to learn. Use the most scrumptious treats to engage and incentivize him.
I know there's research out there that suggests that dogs don't learn well by watching, but my puppy was having trouble with one of those Trixie pet puzzles, at which point I brought in my older dog to show him. He caught on right away.
My Boxer is a connoisseur of puzzle toys. In Minnesota, it gets way too cold for us to go on long walks to curb his energy, so I engage his brain when it becomes a frozen wasteland outside.
I feed Keenan out of a large Kong Wobbler -- he gets at least one meal a day out of this. It takes him about 30 minutes to work out all the kibbles.
IQ Treat Ball is great for pets that work out puzzles super quickly. This is a fairly difficult toy. Be warned, if you have hard floors, this is loudest thing ever. It's also the perfect size to get stuck under sofas with legs.
Omega Paw Tricky Treat Ball is easier to roll around and get kibble sized treats out of. It's also a pain to fill and clean. We don't use this one much.
Everlasting Fun Ball is also hard to fill and difficult to clean, but it's tough. When Keenan is on my last nerve, he gets something super delicious in this and it keeps him occupied until he gets frustrated with it.
Monster Mouth is really tough to get things out of for pups. I'll stuff full sized milk bones in this and leave just a tip hanging out so he can try to pull it out. It keeps him pretty busy, but he gets frustrated by this one quickly.
Buster Food Cube is brilliant in design--you can make it easier and harder to get food out of by twisting the opening. This was Keenan's first puzzle toy and when he figured it out, he got a lot of enjoyment "hiking" it through his back legs at a hard surface to make it bounce off and spray kibbles around. It's loud on hard floors. So loud my ex SO threw it away.
I also pick up random puzzle toys at the store when I see them. I can't find accurate representations on Amazon. Most of them are soft/silicone that you can bend to open and put treats in. Keenan likes his big football one because he knows the yummy, big treats go in that one.
I bought this bird cage for my cockatiel a little while ago and it's been the best investment I've made for him. He has plenty of space to climb and flap around, though I usually let him out an about in my room.
For two budgies, this would easily be a paradise.
Your boy needs to RUN.
He's an adolescent (actual maturity is between 2-3 years) and has lots of energy. You're his only outlet, so it's up to you to give him appropriate ways to drain his energy.
Use a distance toy like this to run him until he's panting twice a day.
Then you get to work his brain.
If you're feeding him dry food from a bowl get one of these instead. Also, check his food for added sugar. I usually recommend grain free as well.
Look into clicker training for cats, catification for your home, and a bird feeder for outside a window.
Smart energetic kitties are fun, and he's trying to play with you because he likes you. Stop punishing him for trying to play, it won't work and it's not fair.
Take it from someone with 4 cats who fosters kittens, your boy will calm down some. But he needs to be burning more energy to be tolerable until then.
Try putting a portion of her food in a toy that requires activity to dispense such as this. It may help increase activity and reduce eating out of boredom.
Enrichment! That's the word!
Unfortunately her little kitty brain is too small to find treats that aren't shoved in her face. I've been toying around with the idea of a treat ball, though.
Equipment: IMO aquaclears are the best HOB filter. Canister filters are a little more expensive and can be a little more difficult than HOBs at first as far as cleaning and setting up. However, they are superior to HOBs in most ways. Eheim and fluval make great canisters, then sunsun have been hit or miss from what I've heard.
I suggest getting two heaters, one on each side of the tank. That way if one fails your fish won't be fried or frozen.
Substrate: pool filter sand is easy and cheap, it can grow plants fine if you use root tabs. You can try the walstad method, which involves putting down a layer of organic potting soil then capping it with sand. It is cheap and very effective for growing plants if done right. The downfall is that it can be messy and its very very hard to rescape. Other options are plant substrates. Eco complete and flourite are two decent substrates for growing plants, moderately priced too. If you have extra money to spend then you can use some type of aquasoil. ADA, Mr. Aqua, ST are all high quality plant substrates, but again pricey.
Lighting: Finnex makes great LEDs for growing plants, a little expensive, but they are very good. For 20" height, the planted+ or original Fugeray should be fine without CO2 and not promote too much algae.
Plants: For plants, you probably won't be able to carpet dwarf baby tears without a strong LED and pressurized CO2. You can do a dwarf hair grass carpet, but it might go slowly without investing in a good light. aquaswap is a great place to buy plants. Butteredscrimp puts out a monthly sale and can help you assemble a plant package. I can vouch for him as being reliable. Just have to give him a price range, some details about your tank such as lighting and size, and some plants you like!
Decorations: Driftwood is a great way to fill space and make your tank feel a little more natural. Spider wood and manzanita are my favorite. Check your LFS to see if they have any pieces you like first. If not, there are several good places you can get driftwood online. Driftwood will release tannins (won't harm fish) into your tank when placed in water and might take a while to sink depending on the piece. I suggest putting it in while your tank is cycling.
You can also go with rocks/stones. They should be scrubbed under hot water before going into the tank. Some rocks can break down and affect your water chemistry. To test if they will you can do the vinegar test. Take the rock and add a few drops of vinegar or a stronger acid. If it fizzles or bubbles then it should not be placed in the tank because it can raise the pH of the water.
Fish: For shrimp amano shrimp are great, they eat hair algae and scavenge leftovers. They won't breed in freshwater though. Red cherry shrimp come in different grades (all very attractive) and are a relatively easy shrimp to keep, they will breed like crazy if provided an adequate environment The babies will be small and can/will be eaten by most fish.
For snails, nerite snails are regarded as some of the best algae eaters, won't reproduce in freshwater, and they are very cool looking. But female snails will leave unattractive, hard to remove, white eggs everywhere. You need a metal blade to scrape them off. u/gastropoid is your go to for snail info.
For a schooling fish you can go big or small. some of my favorite bigger schooling fish include congo tetras and bosemani rainbowfish. There are lots of other good sized rainbowfish if you decide to go that direction. Some popular small schooling fish include harlequin rasboras, neon tetras, cardinal tetras, and rummy nose tetras. Other tetras and rasboras will work too! Some rasboras are tiny though, maxing out at about 1 inch so those are a little less compatible usually. Barbs are another good schooling fish, but they can be nippy and semi-aggressive. Otocinclus are a schooling fish, but they are algae eaters and can be a little sensitive when brought into a new tank.
Fish I would avoid are common plecos, they get massive. And chinese/siamese algae eaters. They are fantastic algae eaters as juveniles, but they become aggressive when they grow up.
final thoughts: if you're going planted, look into EI dosing and root tabs, it will help plants thrive. You said you have experience with freshwater tanks so I assume you know about the nitrogen cycle and fishless cycling. If you don't there is a site under the helpful links tab at the top of the page. Look through the other links there too! great information. Visit plantedtank for more plant info, inspiration, and guides.
This sounds a lot like boredom to me. Is it possible to get the dog out exercising more? Other things that may help are training classes to get him to think, or doggy daycare (nothing tires my guys out more than running with other dogs all day). Something that you can use indoors to help tire him out is a flirt pole. It will cost about $10 in supplies, and if you follow the "rules" that site lists then Pikachu is getting mental and physical stimulation, and you barely have to do anything.
Other than that, you might need to babygate off a section of the house - kitchen or bathroom, and get him used to being left in there. It's easier to keep one room spotless than it is to keep an entire house. Make sure to get a few puzzle toys this is a favourite of my dogs or a kong to freeze his lunch in to keep him occupied.
My cat did the same thing. we got her this and it seems to help.
Okay a few cat suggestions.
Hope that helps!
If you get one of these, it might save you from having to leave your water faucet on all the time! Cute cat, by the way.
Have you considered using a Gentle Leader harness? I had one for my rottie and it was absolutely amazing.
I was in your exact position. I used this to stop the pulling (or at least make it manageable) and this as a safety precaution for broken leashes, where you attach 1 end to their regular collar and the other end to the gentle leader harness (make the end attaching to the regular collar longer than the other so it only gets pulled on if the other attachment fails) and there ya go. An anti-pull harness with a fail safe!. (Also make sure not to cheap out on your primary leash)
I foster kittens and having a litter genie has made a big difference for me. Without it, I have a hard time motivating myself to scoop the litterbox (and find a bag to scoop into, and tie it up, and put shoes on, and take it to the outside garbage, etc.), but with the litter genie right there you can scoop it right in and have a clean litterbox and no stink.
The favorite toys of kittens I've had:
a feather on the end of a long, very flexible stick like this
The stupidly named Da Bird
*Laser pointers. I've found it's a better deal to get a high-quality $20 one than the $4 pet store kind because of battery life.
All of the cats I've ever had were like this, including the 3 we have now. I buy them so many toys, especially when I feel bad for buying the dog a new toy and not them (even though they won't play with it). They prefer playing with bottle caps, pens, the milk rings off of milk jugs, balls of aluminum foil (but not the premade crinkly balls you can buy), basically all of the non-toy things they can get their paws on. I can't even leave nail polish bottles on a table because they'll jump up, knock them off the table, and start batting them around on the floor.
The only actual cat toy they'll use are those round scratching pads that you put on the floor that have the ball that goes around the outside, or regular scratching posts.
2 months old? And you are wondering how to "tame" him?! I rescue cats, mostly kittens and there is only one way to "tame" a rambunctious kitten-PLAY WITH HIM! Wear him out. He is a little body with all of this energy that he needs to get out...he is doing what every kitten does if someone doesn't play with them...he knocks over plants, he tears stuff up, he is a terror. Find some toys that are interactive for when you are not there but play with him twice a day for 15-20 minutes or more. I recommend a laser pointer for playtime with him. That wears a kitten out more than anything.
Use a spray bottle, squirt him when he does something you don't want him to do-BE CONSISTENT and don't let him see it come from you. You want him to think...gee, everytime I step on this table, water comes from somewhere and I don't like it. If he knows it comes from you, when you aren't there he will do it.
Here are some toys I like to use for these little guys.
Only use this one under your supervision since he's so small...I have had a kitten get their head stuck and it took a vet to get her out after putting her under anesthetic and using a saw to cut her out.
Also, do you realize that he will be this way for a few more months? Don't play with him using your hands (he will think they are toys and might bite you) and get him a scratching post. He is at the point, if he is two months old, that he can be neutered as well.
One of my cats does this, the other doesn't. We kept the regular water bowl but got them a Drinkwell Platinum and they both love it and drink more. The vet encouraged us getting this anyway because the one who smacks at the water was having problems with not getting enough water in his diet and therefore was getting UTIs. This seems to be better overall for their health. My boyfriend's Mom also got her cats this one and they won't go near it. I guess it depends on your kitty.
Here's the link for the one we got:
I got this one.
One of them loves the water stream and bops at it and will drink straight from the stream. It beats the boring metal bowl. You can also wash it in the dishwasher. I highly recommend it.
Aside from thanking everyone who replied, I want to take the time to update on whats going on.
After I posted, I was leaning into purchasing a Fluval Spec V to house Fishy. 170). I started looking for other options such as buying another tank, buying at a LFS or commissioning a tank.
A reputable tank maker quoted me US$45.00 to make a 15 Gallon tank, with the following dimension 16.25''x16.25''x13.25'' (LxWxH) made with .88 mm glass or aprox 1/3''.
In turn, I would have to buy a filter, a heater and light (as well as substrate and plants). Here is what Im leaning towards, advice would be very much appreciated, as its my first tank in about 10 years:
Heater: Eheim 25 watt.
Filter: Aquaclear HOB Power Filter 20.
Light: Finnex Stingray 16'.
An acquaintance suggested I buy this filter instead:
Aquaclear Power Head + Aquaclear Powerhead Attachment.
Even suggested I fit my tank with two of those instead of the HOB filter.
Being a noob, I dont really know much about those types of filters.
For plants Im thinking something like this:
Fluval Anubias 12'.
Fluval Lizard Tail.
Substrate: Im looking forward to adding real plants in the future.
Soil - ADA Africana.
Sand - something along that color.
I already own an APC UPS, similar to this one or even the same one (i dont really remember).
Again, any tips or suggestions are welcome.
You could get some better substrate...
CaribSea Eco-Complete 20-Pound Planted Aquarium, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DH0QM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_k5mwDbRK9SQVR
Just curious why the pronged choker? Is he particularly aggressive?
My english is sweet enough that I've never needed anything other than a gentle leader during training.
The only noise from a DWC would be the air pump. If you look specifically for a pump that bills itself as silent you can keep the noise reduced to a very quiet hum which should be all but unnoticeable against outdoor background noise. I have a small DWC unit on my desk at work which uses this guy and my cubicle neighbors can't hear it.
Looks great, good work. If you want to speed up growth, buy a small aquarium air pump, and a cheap airstone. They have a lot of combo's on amazon for under $15.
I too started because of Jeb, humorously enough and now I have 5 foot tall plants in my man cave. Grow for the stars.
Here's the air pump that I bought
Tetra 77851 Whisper Air Pump, 10-Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lSQxybNT7AE1N
And the filter
Bio Fish Aquarium Mini Cylinder Soft Sponge Water Filter, Black by XINYOU https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009V3KUOS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tTQxybTDESDSD
I think I accidentally ordered the filter a size up. Mine takes up a bit of room but it should have the same effect as this one that won't take up as much. I think it's more about the air flow than the size of the sponge.
I also got some check valves to protect the pump in the case of a power outage. They're super cheap, and I got mine at a petco nearby. If you want a little bit more control over the air flow, I got an air control valve there too.
Plastic Aquarium 2 Way Air Line Tubing Flow Control Valve 3mm Dia 5pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WW6LSWY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_p5Qxyb33GC6V2
Uniclife Aquarium Air pump Accessories Set for Fish Tank, 2 Air Stones, 2 Check Valves, 4 Connectors and 6 Suction Cups https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K4AZKNW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_M7Qxyb9GZRACN
And some airline tubing.
Many of these things were actually cheaper at a petco than on Amazon besides the filter and air pump
This is the go-to for front harness. Which ones have you tried? Are you looking for things to stop her from pulling?
Here ya go. They rape you in prices at petsmart, good lord.
I don't know how big Potter is but Pepper is 37lbs now and the medium was almost too big for her. We tightened it up all the way and it fit, so she'll have plenty of room to grow.
This harness is awesome for pullers.
My brother has an 115lb Malamute that this harness makes him easy for me to walk and I'm 5"3 130lbs.
My father also uses this on his 80lb Malamute, he has two bad shoulders and while she will still freak out in excitement whenever she sees another dog, this harness helps her little tantrum stay in place, shes never pulled he or I down.
Also I saw that you weren’t sure what cycling is. A lot of people don’t realize what it is until after they get their fish, but cycling is important.
Basically the nitrogen cycle starts when there is waste. This can be in eaten food, waste given off plants, or fish poop. This very quickly turns into ammonia, which is toxic for fish.
Good bacteria then eat that ammonia, turning it into nitrite.
Nitrite is less toxic, but still very harmful.
Then another good/beneficial bacteria comes in and eats the nitrite, turning it into nitrate, which is not toxic in small amounts.
The nitrate comes out of the tank through water changes.
But in a newly established tank like yours, there is no beneficial bacteria yet, which is why it’s dangerous for the fish, because there is nothing breaking that ammonia down into less toxic chemicals. Many fish can get illnesses like fin rot, which is where the fins rot away from being in an uncycled tank. New tank syndrome is common, it’s when a fish dies from being in a new/uncycled tank.
Fortunately, you can cycle your tank, which is where you build up that beneficial bacteria. You will need a water test kit to test your water, and Seachem Prime water conditioner which conditions and detoxifies the water. You will also need to do some more research, here’s an article about how to fish-in cycle . Best of luck! I hope this made sense and helps. :)
this is what you want, and it's on sale! :P it's usually around 28-30ish.
Might wanna see if any fish stores or /r/AquaSwap in the area will rehome your fish instead of you trying to save them. I'd say your best bet is to rehome the non-betta fish and then keep your betta in the tank alone (like it should in that tank) and keep the water quality pristine with daily water changes and get yourself a freshwater testing kit https://www.amazon.com/API-FRESHWATER-800-Test-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B000255NCI/ref=asc_df_B000255NCI/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=198072615033&amp;hvpos=1o1&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=14506176137279092008&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=c&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9008162&amp;hvtargid=pla-348697791053&amp;psc=1
So today's important lesson is that fish stores, especially the larger chain stores, are notoriously awful at providing accurate information. They often either don't know, don't care or are just trying to make a sale.
Topfin filters are not the most popular, and you always want to lean toward over-filtration. This stuff about the filter is kind of an aside at this point, but as you increase stock in the future it's something to consider. This isn't an immediate issue.
I would recommend getting the API Freshwater Master Kit and taking control of your own testing. The paper strips are not very good at all. The nitrate test is often done incorrectly because people don't read and follow directions and assume it is done like the other tests.
Properly cycling your tank is going to be the most important step for the health of your fish.
The tldr of it is that you feed fish and they produce ammonia waste. You need to have enough media (gravel, hydroton, etc) to support enough bacteria to convert the ammonia before it kills your fish. Ammonia is extremely toxic to fish so any detectable level of ammonia will cause stress, disease, and eventually death.
The bacteria converts the ammonia to nitrIte and then eventually nitrAte. NitrIte is toxic to fish as well but not as toxic as ammonia. NitrAte is what the plants consume so this is where another aspect comes into play. Too much nitrAte is...you guessed it...also toxic to fish. This means you need to have enough plants to keep your nitrAte in check.
So it becomes kind of a dance to get the right balance in your system.
You absolutely will need this test kit and in the beginning you will need to be testing the water every day. You will eventually get extremely good at it.
My advice to you is to start small. By a 20 gallon fish tank and cycle it for 30 days. Add 1 fish and do a Styrofoam floating raft with plants on top. This will do a few things. First, it will make sure you actually want to get involved in aquaponics. Second, it will make sure you kill the least amount of fish. I haven't met a single person who hasn't killed fish in their system. It's going to happen. At least this way you get the hang of it and get a better understanding of how it all works on a smaller scale.
Before I answer your questions, I want you to know that getting more advanced meaning spending a lot more money and time. A lot us learn by making mistakes, and that's how I started, by making a lot of mistakes.
I don't know what level of planting you want to do. It can be as easy as adding a few amazon swords into your tank right now, or as difficult as buying new light, CO2 equipment, fertilizers, etc.
If you want to save a lot of money from mistakes then here is what you should do:
Yes! Prime. It is the hobby standard and is liked because it removes chlorine, chloramines, and detoxify's ammonia. It is the only water conditioner you should be using.
nah man youve got the wrong stuff trust me
this is the only conditioner youll ever need
Cloudiness (especially with a smell) typically means the tank is undergoing a cycle of bacteria. This means that the bioload the tank was presented with (whether the goldfish or mollies) was too high and the tank mini-cycled. You should see a spike in nitrites, followed by nitrates after this occurrence.
Try to buy a liquid test kit such as the master freshwater API test kit as they are way more accurate than strips.
Also, do not follow recommendations on that pamphlet. Nitrates should always be <20 ppm, ideally 0-10. You can accomplish this through periodic water changes with a water conditioner.
Nitritres and ammonia should always be 0 when tested, given the tank is properly cycled for its given bioload.
At this point you'll want to do daily water changes at the proper temperature and with water conditioner to keep nitrites and ammonia as close to 0 as possible for fish health. Cloudiness should dissipate typically in a week or less depending on the extent of the mini-cycle. DO NOT disturb filter media at this time, you'll only make the cycle take longer.
It's called the Easy Walk Harness. They're nice.
I have used a no-pull harness for dogs that have needed leash training.
Something like this.
Anything that attaches in front of their chest will work better than a regular choke collar because it redirects the dog rather than increasing their nervous energy. Also, waiting for the dog to be calm before moving forward is a good idea. You may start giving the dog a treat once they are sitting calmly so they realize that calm behavior is good. I usually wait until my dog is sitting and giving me his attention before giving a treat and starting to walk again.
The recommended amount is often too much. If that amount makes him chunky, feed him less. Also, you can get him active with toys like these: link link link
Window perches are great because then they can see outside and be entertained that way. Kind of like "cat tv". I would try to play with them for at least 20 min to a half hr every day. A variety of toys is always nice and its always good to have two or three sets of toys. Every week or so I gather all the current toys up and rotate them with toys that I keep in a plastic baggie with catnip.
This is, by far, my cats FAVORITE interactive toy. I actually have to put it out of sight when we're not playing because they'll seek it out and destroy the feathers.
You probably won't be able to stop the purring, so your best bet will be to keep the cats out of your room and try to train them not to make a fuss about it.
If the cats scratch at the closed door, you can try covering the door and area around it temporarily with aluminum foil, double-sided tape, or one of those plastic floor mats for rolling chairs (with the pointy nub side facing out).
You could also try placing an Ssscat or two by the doorway, facing out, at night to keep them from approaching the door.
I've also heard of people putting a vacuum right outside the door, with the cord coming into the room -- the idea is to leave the vacuum turned on but unplugged, and when the cats start being annoying outside you plug it in and it scares them away.
Ssscat. We used this to keep our cats out of a plant and off a dresser. It works because it's not you activating it. They just learn they're going to get a puff of loud air on them if they go where they're not supposed to.
Keep your door closed. He won't get in.
For counters if your roommates have a cat tower, keep it close to the counters. That's his space. Cats are curious (or hungry) and want to see what's up (or can they eat that). When he's got his own thing to hang out and observe what's going on on the counters, he won't be inclined to be on the counter tops. If he stays on the cat tree, he gets treats.
If you want to keep him off the counters even when you're not watching, then get one of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RIA95G or put double sided sticky tape on the counter tops.
I am sorry, I know that feeling. I have made the mistake of feeding my cats wet food first thing in the AM. This means starting at 5am I get my fat ass cat all up in my ear yowling at me. As soon as I move she scrams. If I have to get out of bed, they get chased down with a water bottle.
Maybe try some of this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RIA95G
so they get scared of your door?
Buy one of these, cats fuck right off when this goes off
[Sscat cat control system](PetSafe SSScat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RIA95G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XbUsybR7PWEWS)
video of it in action
I'm allergic, and it kept my roommates' cats out of my room and, by extension, off of my pillows.
The sensor isn't the most reliable thing in the world, but it works most of the time.
if you can't keep him out of the kitchen, I really recommend this:
It's just a can of compressed air with a motion detector on it. She can put it anywhere where she wants him not to be. I use this at my house to keep my cats off the table/counter.
I think that's a good plan. If you have access to Amazon, I can't recommend this birdcage enough. I have gotten one for all my birds and most recently my 2 English budgies upgraded and they think it's the best thing ever. The rolling ability rocks and this thing is HUGE for the price you are paying.
Don't get discouraged...the people on this subreddit and /r/parrots are really helpful and supportive. I'm really happy you are looking for advice and talking with people about what to do to make your bird happy and healthy. That shows you care.
I have this tank! If you think the current is too strong you can get a pre-filter sponge to slip on output nozzle thing (I totally forgot what it's called) to slow it down. I got mine at Petco for like 3 bucks.
Beautiful tank!! If you are going to put a betta there I hear that people say the current is to strong so they recommend this sponge so that your betta doesn't have a hard time swimming!
They make puzzle toys for dogs that force them to work out how to get the food- have you tried those? I've had to pick one up for a cat to put treats in, because if I do not stimulate him intellectually, he'll pull apart the cabinets.
these or these.
My chi’s LOVE food puzzle games. We got our teacup an IQ ball on amazon and she rolls that thing around - it gets her some activity, feeds her, and she uses her brain. My bigger chi likes this one
Maybe that will help?
how old is she?
our puppy was cleared to go home at 7.5 weeks and 9 pounds. we went to target and got a boots and barkley size XS collar. it was $4. we only spent $4 because within a month she was in a M collar. she's going to need a large collar in the next few months.
we had a lighter leash from our other dog (cocker spaniel) that we used until we switched collars, then we got a heavier duty 6' nylon leash off of amazon. 6' is a good length for training because you can do come and stay with 6'.
it's really tempting to spend a lot on cute collars and leashes when you get them, but they grow so quickly that it really is kind of a waste of money...
a puppy kong would be good (believe this is the baby blue one). she'll be learning to mouth. we also got some softer plush toys for her, smaller, because she can't get her mouth around the bigger ones. samus REALLY liked small flat toys and there isn't stuffing for them to rip out of with their razor sharp puppy teeth. the stuffing can make them sick if they ingest it. also, some of the flat ones have a crinkly paper sound and not a squeaker, which can also be better.
goldens are REALLY smart so you have to keep them busy. there are a lot of 'puzzle toys' out there but samus always figured them out within 10 minutes. even as a 2-3 month old puppy the ones that say 6 months + were way too easy (she is just turning 4.5 months).
my husband found this toy on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/OurPets-Smarter-Interactive-Treat-Colors/dp/B003ARUKTG
it is our LIFE SAVER. it is the ONLY toy that keeps samus interested for HOURS. it has to roll on carpet though, so if you dont have carpet it might not be a good choice. we tried other ball/puzzle toys and she would figure them out. we put a handful of her food or some treats and her food in the ball and she is so busy. the kicker with this toy is that the inner platform has an adjustable hole to make it more difficult for the food to fall out of, and then it falls into the ball and has to fall out of the second (outer) hole. so, out of everything we have ever purchased, this was the best $8 we have spent.
we used a small 2 cup pyrex like dish for the first couple of months and now she is in a Kong slow feed bowl from PetSmart.
we do natural balance limited ingredient lamb and brown rice puppy food. puppy food is important because they're growing. our vet told us large breed isn't necessary because large breed is more for your dane sized puppies. whatever you feed her, make sure you are starting with an 80% breeder provided food/20% your food, next day do 70/30, 60/40, etc...slow moving or it will upset their bellies and you'll be sad because they can't hold their liquid poops in since they are puppies. ask the breeder for a weeks worth of food for the transition.
if you have a petco near you, ask them for the puppy coupon book. it'll come with a lot of 50% off coupons for treats that you can use with price matching and manufacturer coupons.
I took these 50% one bag of 12oz tricky trainer treats, looked on their website, got a price match (it's usually a ton cheaper on their website) and then got the 50% off of that price match.
I ended up with 3 bags of treats for about $4
Yup it has an adjustable opening. It comes in different sizes too. The blue one pictured there is for smaller dogs (I use it for my 22 pound JRT) you can get 2/3 cup of food in it.
Slow feeder ball
I never imagined that I would be a fish owner, but I have found myself with one, and I have a huge soft spot for all animals, so I can't stand to see them neglected so I want to provide the best home the little guy I can! Here is the list of what I've gotten so far. Let me know what you think and if I have made any mistakes!
He already has ~5lbs so I figure 10 lbs should cover a 5 gallon tank pretty well.
Heater for 5 gallon tank
5 Gallon Tank
API Freshwater Test Kit
He already has a betta log, betta hammock, a small decorative plant, Tetra betta pellets, and some bloodworms for treats. Hopefully this covers all bases for little Zazoo! (Yes, my gf named him after the bird from the Lion King. Lol) If you have any other tips for a complete beginner, I'd love to hear them! Thank you for your suggestions!
Here's my list:
Kong - you can stuff it with peanut butter or canned dog food (and even freeze it!) to give to your pup. Super helpful for crate training and just for keeping the pup busy for a couple minutes.
Kibble ball like this one - keeps the pup from scarfing down it's whole meal in 20 seconds. Also - you can enjoy your coffee in the morning without worrying what the pup is getting up to.
Training treats (eg Zuke's) are great for clicker training - they're small so your pup doesn't get too many calories from training sessions
Harness and long lead (30 feet or so) - really handy for tiring the pup out. You can walk through a park/field or whatever, and the pup can zoom around and get some of their puppy fuss out.
Nature's Miracle for accidents - it's an enzymatic cleaner and works really well for getting the smell out of the carpet (and keeping them from viewing that spot as a bathroom next time!)
For the toys - it's really helpful to split them into 2-3 groups, and rotate which group is out every week or so. Otherwise they can get bored of all their toys
*This article is my go-to for crate training. It has lots of ideas for games to build up a positive association with the crate, and helps you work up to leaving the pup alone.
I have the Drinkwell Original I ordered from Amazon. Its only $30 and I'm happy with it. It took a couple days for our cat to get used to it but now he is fine with it.
Thanks :) Amazon! ww.amazon.com/gp/product/B00063446M/ should help fix someone's little bird-soup problem, haha.
I would suggest a Gentle Leader. It works the same way people control horses in that it controls the nose. We have been using it to teach our dog to stop pulling/jumping and it is really great.
From the description on Amazon "Designed so that owners can communicate with their pet in a way they instinctively understand, the Gentle Leader painlessly and effectively removes the dog’s natural tendency to pull by placing gentle pressure on calming points and eliminating uncomfortable pressure on the throat. In addition to reducing a dog’s desire to pull away, the Gentle Leader is also a very effective tool in combating lunging, jumping, excessive barking and helping to calm an aggressive and/or anxious animal."
You need this in your life:
Da Bird Interactive Feather Cat toy: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000F9JJJE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_bh8Jwb3CAJZF3
we've had cats before and nothing prepared us for our furry terrorist. Walls, sofas, curtains, carpets - all torn or damaged. Fingers and arms bleeding. Children running scared. she is tiny but she makes her presence known.
We give her a lot of love and she is much softer than when she was a kitten but she needs constant play with the feather cat toy and lots of high places to sleep/skulk/plot.
I don't think they can be indoor cats as someone would quickly end up murdered.
Might want to get one of these to try and wear him out:
Word of advice: Hide it when not in use; otherwise the kitty will eat it.
absolutely. However a cat needs more stimulation than once every couple of days. Get a wand toy (like Da' Bird https://amzn.com/B000F9JJJE ), get some treat balls (https://amzn.com/B0018CE8LG ) that you can put treats in for him to find. There is this butterfly toy that is very popular and pretty cheap (https://amzn.com/B01AJJOJGC $9.99 US) that most cats seems to love. Pet him, brush him, just talk to him (read him a book or reddit posts you think are funny or homework or whatever).
He probably don't want to go out but is bored. Cats can do fine inside and live long happy lives. Just find what he likes to do and make sure he gets his favorite activities.
This toy? My little guy looooves it. Best toy ever. I got the ball that lights up for it (mostly so I can see it in the dark). I now gift them to all of my friends with new kittens because they are amazing.
My guy loves catnip mice and leaves them everywhere; like the bathtub, my bed ala godfather style under the covers, in purses and shoes mine and visitors.
I've had great luck with this fountain. Well made, quiet, adjustable flow and the filters are inexpensive. http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Drinkwell-Platinum-Pet-Fountain/dp/B000L3XYZ4
It seems it might be this.
PetSafe Drinkwell Platinum Pet Fountain https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000L3XYZ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vo.Azb8ZB8HFJ
I have the Drinkwell Big Dog Fountain and the Drinkwell Platinum Pet Fountain. My cats love them! My father let the cats drink from the tap. They got spoiled and started turning their noses up at their water dish and begging for water at the sink. After nearly tripping over cats every time I had to pee, I bought the smaller of the two fountains. It was an immediate hit, not just with the cats, but with the dog, too. Between them all, they emptied the fountain very quickly. I had to upgrade to the big one just to keep up!
Just bought this one! https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000L3XYZ4/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1505072174&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=cat+fountain
J'utilisais ça pour empêcher mes chats de monter sur les meubles :
C'est un aérosol avec un petit capteur de proximité
They sell air canisters that shoot a beam of air when something walks in front of it
Idk if this will work or not but maybe it'll help
Lots of live plants are easy to do; my amazon swords, moss ball, and cryptocorynes are doing really well, and I suck at keeping anything alive.
Seachem Prime is the most comprehensive and money efficient water treatment I've found so far; you only need a few drops per gallon. I usually add 4 or 5 drops; easy to poke holes in the plastic lid for drops to come out in a controlled way instead of using an eye dropper.
You have to cycle the tank first. To start the cycle you need to add ammonia. Typically take around 6weeks for a full cycle.
Read this to learn how and why to cycle.
Here is ammonia drops
Here is API Master Test Kit which you will need to monitor water while cycling and afterwards.
Yes you will need a testing kit for ammonia (preferably the api master test kit) https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000255NCI/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539754070&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=api+test+kit+freshwater&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51FQhbpfB0L&amp;ref=plSrch wait until your ammonia and nitrites are zero and your nitrates are 10-20 and you’re goood to go
I'll list off the things you need in order of importance
First is bigger tank! Your bowl isn't cycled anyway so more water volume can only help. I have the same tank that you linked and I like it but I don't really like using filter cartridges so I just changed it out for this stuff
Next, heater. Warm water has been in my experience the biggest difference between a healthy and unhealthy betta. You want one that has an internal thermostat and you can manually set the temp to a number. You'll want a thermometer to go along with it
Filter is important but not as important as heater imo. You'll still need it if you don't want to be doing multiple weekly water changes to keep the quality perfect
Finally are the comfort items: plants, caves etc. If you want plants decide how into it you want to get. Regular gravel would be fine with some plants but if you really want to go for it get something like ecocomplete or fluorite that's designed for plants. I'd recommend at least a couple live plants (Anubias and crypts are easy) because they go crazy for them.
Everything else is mostly to make things easier for you or for decoration.
When you have it set up you'll want to do weekly 20% water changes. A test kit will help you make sure that you're on the right track. If you have any ammonia: water change. If you have any nitrite: water change. If nitrate gets to 20: water change.
I’m sorry to say the above comments are right. Common goldfish get over 1 foot in length and are incredibly messy fish. They really belong in a pond, but you could theoretically keep one in 75 gallon (but a 90 gallon is the same footprint with a little more height, offering more water and therefore easier to keep clean). Really, they should have a tank that is at least 6 foot long and 18 inches wide, but a 75 (4 feet and 18 inches wide) would be the bare minimum. Anything narrower and the fish will have trouble turning around as goldfish get over 12-14 inches long if they are healthy. They will stay smaller if their growth is stunted, but this is extremely unhealthy for them and results in a much shorter lifespan. With a 75 or 90 gallon, be prepared to do 30-50% waterchanges every week (which should be pretty easy with a system like the python. You won’t need a heater, but you will need a great filter. I recommend a canister filter, but if that is out of your price range two of these or better yet two of these will work well. Goldfish are plant eaters so you won’t have to worry about plants, so you can get whatever light you like/what’s cheapest. Big tanks are expensive, but you can often find them used along with the stands (which saves a ton of money). You can also get a 75 gallon half off from Petco during the dollar-per-gallon sale, and then build your own stand (tons of plans online). For substrate, I would buy pool filter sand (very cheap and great for goldfish, it can’t get stuck in their mouths like gravel and it looks awesome, it’s easy to keep clean too). There are a lot of ways to cut costs, especially with a goldfish tank that doesn’t need a filter or fancy light. Feel free to ask any questions, and please do some research on the nitrogen cycle (introduction ) it’s the most important thing you can possibly learn as a new fishkeeper! You will need a test kit too, to test your water. Don’t bother with test strips as they are very inaccurate, go ahead and get this. If you want to cycle the tank quickly and without a hassle, this is the only one that really works. Welcome to the wonderful world of fishkeeping! Best of luck with your pet! Goldfish are lots of fun.
Edit: petsmart has a 75 gallon tank with stand, lid, and light for half off today for Black Friday (at $249 a screaming deal for a brand new tank!!) if you are interested.
This is the best bang for your buck. It lets you test everything you want to. If you want to test just ammonia, or just nitrites you can buy the individual test kits, but API makes the most for the least amount of money as far as testing, that I have seen.
Hold off on the food. Adding food means adding poop and increasing potential for ammonia problems. These large fish should be fine for a week without food, and snails can hibernate for weeks without food. Don't feed too much of the food either, go slow so you can catch ammonia problems.
Buy a water test kit. It needs to test: Ammonia (NH4), Nitrite (NO2), and Nitrate (NO3). The API Master Test Kit is one of the best. Something like the API 5-in-1 test strip is not good because it does not test ammonia (NH4).
EDIT: Subreddit wiki is a good resource: https://www.reddit.com/r/Aquariums/wiki/index
I hear strips are not very acrurate, I use this guy instead.
I like your driftwood.
Fish in cycling is totally possible. Just buy some seachem prime (seriously, this stuff is the top of the top, get it), make sure you're doing regular (every other day is what I did) water changes of ~40-50% (side note, get one of these doesn't have to be the same one but something similar. This lets you do the water changes without taking the fish out of the tank which stresses the fish).
And most importantly, get a complete test kit one like this, not the strips they're inaccurate and make sure the ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite levels don't go too high. If they do, do a 60% water change and add some seachem prime and check back in a few hours.
You can also get something like this to jumpstart your bacteria growth. Putting filters from previously established tanks also works
He should be fine as long as you do all this! Love the setup btw!
Ah I see. I would really suggest you get a water test kit and see what the ammonia is and what not. He definitely would love more plants and less bubbles for sure! Do a water change too if you have done one.
API Freshwater Master Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_l8kNxb3XWRZBB
Go buy this. Do the test. Report back with your water quality parameters.
Okay, that changes a lot of things. I read some of your other comments too and I think we may have a couple problems.
Honestly, 3gal isn't exactly too small but it's also too small. We recommend no less than 5gal. I too bought my first tank under the rule of 1gal per 1 inch of fish and I noticed a huge difference in Finnegan's activity when I went from a 3.5 to 5gal years ago. Now. all of my fish are in at least 5gal and I'm actively upgrading those to 10gals too. The larger the tank, the more wiggle room you get on water quality because it takes longer for toxins to build up and cause major issues. So, if you can go bigger, you should.
When we say cycled, we mean the nitrogen cycle, not moving water (although that is important too). Since the odds aren't great that your tank is cycled knowing what we know now, we have a couple action items. We need to test your water parameters first and foremost. A liquid test kit is absolutely necessary here. If you don't have one, they're usually only $22 on Amazon or Petsmart.com. It'll cost a lot more at the store so load one of those links and have either Petco or Petsmart price match it for you so you can pick it up at the internet price today. Test strips are notorious for giving values lower than they really are. Plus, those liquid test kits give you far more tests than test strips will for that price.
It is very possible that you have some water quality issues that are making your little guy sick. The easiest way to fix this is to identify the exact issue and fix it. You're likely going to have to do a water change today. I'll be honest, the betta water conditioners are a scam at the least. They're just a watered down version of other water conditioners so they don't work nearly as well and cost much more. If you can, grab a bottle of something like Seachem Prime, it'll only take a few drops to get your water conditioned and it works instantly. Make an effort to get your new water for your tank around the same temperature as your tank currently is to reduce stress on your fish. Sometime like Seachem StressGuard will also be helpful here.
As a bigger picture fix, we have to get that tank cycled. Since you already have the little guy, we're going to be doing a "Fish-In Cycle" which is outlined here. Unfortunately, that's how I've had to cycle most of my tanks so if you need help, I can work with you through that too. I personally use Tetra SafeStart Plus to start the cycle although I use Seachem Stability regularly too. Neither of those products are guaranteed to start your cycle though.
Also, I personally strongly advise against plastic plants. Betta fins are delicate and plastic tends to rip them. I'd swap them out when you can for either live or silk plants. Live plants come with the benefit of helping control nitrates but they are a bit more work. Silk plants are the simplest to execute. I'd make a larger tank and different plants the next priority behind getting the water quality under control.
Edit: At this point, can you also include a picture of your betta? I want to make sure we aren't also developing some fin rot, if so, we want to make sure we take steps to treat that too.
you can try this not sure if it’ll test O2 levels, but the snails may just like the light
In order to have fish, you need to do a fishless nitrogen cycle. You need to get API test kit and liquid ammonia in order to make your tank hospitable to fish (add ammonia daily to about 3-4ppm). It will take several weeks to complete, it is done so you build up enough of beneficial bacteria which break down the waste produced by the fish. Only then get the fish. Otherwise they may die from ammonia/nitrite poisoning.
The recommended tank size for a betta is at least 5 gallons. They like to swim around a lot and like places to hide and explore.
A heater is important because bettas live in tropical areas. I believe the recommended temperature is around 80F but I have mine set to 78F because I have shrimp in my tank and I don’t want to cook them.
A super important thing with fish is cycling the tank, which means beneficial bacteria is grown in the filter to convert harmful chemicals from things like extra food rotting at the bottom or the fish’s poop. Those things create ammonia which is very toxic to fish. The bacteria convert ammonia to nitrate, which is still toxic to fish. Another type of bacteria converts nitrate to nitrite which is okay for fish at low levels. Completely changing the filter and water will disrupt the bacteria growth and start the cycle over. To test the chemical level, a great test kit is the API Master Kit which is about $18USD on amazon as opposed to $30USD at Petco.
For the filter, I use the one that came with my 10g tank I got at Petsmart for $30USD. I did have to put an aquarium sponge in the hole where the water comes out because the current was too strong and it can stress out the fish. I know Petco has dollar per gallon deals on tanks but they do not come with lids or filters.
For cleaning the tank, I use a gravel vacuum which helps pick up food and poop from the bottom as well as take out water. I generally do 25-30% water changes every week to week and a half.
With regards to the decorations, if it’s a silk plant made of cloth, it’s okay. Plastic plants can rip betta’s fins which are super delicate. A good test is to take a pair of pantyhose or tights and run them alon the decoration. If they snag, the plastic is too rough and could rip the fins. I have sanded down a couple decorations that were too rough.
I hope Beta-Ray Bill is happy and if you have any other questions, feel free to message me! I am putting some links to some of the things I talked about below.
Tank I have: https://www.petsmart.com/fish/starter-kits/grreat-choice-aquarium-starter-kit-37513.html?cgid=300128
Cycling info: https://www.fishkeeping.co.uk/articles_51/fishless-cycling-article.htm for fishless cycle
https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/fishincycle?st=JSMPRQXH&amp;sh=11bbe966 for a fish in cycle
Other information: https://www.reddit.com/r/bettafish/wiki/tank?st=JSMPSDAG&amp;sh=7e5a10b3
Edit: the API master kit is $21USD on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BwHDCb18WDCK4
This is the one most people recommend and the one I use =)
i have a 150w in my 46 gallon and it barley keeps up, have to have it cranked to max (86 i think) to keep the tank at 78) I'm going to move up to a 200 soon, or probably just adding a second heater.
price difference is negligible between 150 and 200 for the most part.
I use this instead of the python adapter, half cost, same thing, add a $1 hose clamp if you want but you may not need it, the pressure doesn't get to high out of inside faucets honestly. You don't need the hook in all likelihood, I do my changes solo without the hook just fine.
If you want to save even more money, you can DIY the whole thing for cheaper as well, just search around on the youtube channel of a guy called king of DIY
Don't spend $26 on test strips, strips suck, spend $22 on the api liquid test kit, it will last longer anyway
the bacteria quick start is real hit or miss, all brands, so don't put too much faith in it, you'll still spend weeks cycling probably. remember to get a source of ammonia ($3 for a bottle, get pure stuff, without anything added, if you shake it and there are lasting bubbles, its not what you need)
plants get expensive FAST, so 150 for plants, decorations, fish is gonna be tough. Pool filter sand is great easy substrate though, so is black diamond blasting media if you prefer black, both are probably in the $10 range for enough to cover your tank to the proper depth. driftwood and nice rocks can add up fast.
/r/PlantedTank has a weekly giveaway thread but its not too filled ever, r/aquaswap can get you some good deals on plants too. aquabid.com is aquarium ebay and can get you some good deals too.
I just looked back up and saw you didn't actually say plants, but plants are cool and help your tank stay stable and healthy, you'll probably want some eventually. But you will probably want a better light for live plants as well. That can be down the road I guess.
If you are buying from petsmart, know that they will pricematch their own website, the instore prices are outrageous. Online has to at least compete with other places though, so have the products pulled up online on your phone when you check out. petsmart also has an app, make an account and play their dumb little treat game. Right now if you beat it on hard its 20% off a single item, which is great for your tank stand combo. Easy and medium gives you a 10 and a 15% off as well. Its a simple enough concept, but beating it on hard can suck, I definitely get the feeling it just lets you win after a while though (10ish tries, quit for a day and try again and you'll get it quick)
For stocking it, a couple dwarf gouramis if some kind, honey or powder blue or whatever you like. maybe a schooling fish like cardinal or neon tetras. mollys or platys are colorful and will breed, corys for the bottom. a nerite snail, play around on aqadvisor.com and see what you can safely stock together and the basic requirements. Dont take it as gospel, just a good baseline and jumping off point for more research.
https://www.amazon.com/API-FRESHWATER-800-Test-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B000255NCI/ref=asc_df_B000255NCI/?tag=hyprod-20&amp;linkCode=df0&amp;hvadid=198072615033&amp;hvpos=1o1&amp;hvnetw=g&amp;hvrand=17415959114647206744&amp;hvpone=&amp;hvptwo=&amp;hvqmt=&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvdvcmdl=&amp;hvlocint=&amp;hvlocphy=9018948&amp;hvtargid=pla-348697791053&amp;psc=1 this is one of the best values out there
Can i offer some advice?
I'm not entirely sure what a snail cycle is, but let's go over a few things.
First, throw your test strips away and buy a liquid test kit. The most common one is the API Freshwater Master Test Kit. You can purchase from Amazon at the link provided. This is the most important part of what I'm going to tell you. Get it and test your water. You have no way of knowing what stage of the nitrogen cycle you're in (I'm guessing you're definitely not cycled) without knowing actual numbers. While the API kit has it's own shortcomings, it's so far ahead of your test strips that it's not even in the same class.
Second, filtration is a topic that can get very deep (no pun intended.) Suffice it to say, you absolutely do not need carbon in your filter. Marineland has a nice little moneymaking filter in their biowheel line. Carbon is meant to remove chemicals and smell in a tank. You really shouldn't have either. The only time I would ever recommend carbon is if you've been medicating your tank, and then only long enough to scrub the water of the chemicals. Besides, carbon becomes inert in a filter cartridge after a surprisingly short amount of time (less than a month.) Once that happens you have black powdered nothing in your tank - it serves no purpose other than to make Marineland more money.
Continuing on the Marineland topic...the biowheel does provide a nice surface for beneficial bacteria. The constant aeration makes it really good for growing and holding on to BB. There are two things to know about the biowheel, though - first, you need to establish the BB on the biowheel. Given the state of your tank I wouldn't be positive that there are any BB on your biowheel. Second, please don't rely on the biowheel to keep BB available for your tank...talk to any owner of them (myself included) and you'll find that after some time your biowheel will slow down and eventually stop spinning. This is for two reasons that I've found - the biowheel gets full of water, making it heavier to turn. Also, the spraybars providing the water to power the wheel get gunked up, which reduces water flow. That lack of water flow can't keep up with the biowheel in new condition, much less when it gets full of water. You have to clean the spraybars out frequently.
Now - on to the cartridge. The Marineland Rite-Size filter cartridges supposedly provide mechanical and chemical filtration. They do this by taking mechanical media and putting activated charcoal in it. It's like a pouch of sorts - you can rip it down the sides and the charcoal will pour out. You can put it back in sans charcoal and it's just a typical poly filter pad. Here's a hint - you can buy regular poly filter pads at a considerably lower price than Marineland sells their filter cartridges for and you'll have the option to pick what you put in. I don't think the 150 has the case that holds the cartridge like the larger ones do (I have a 400, it has room for 4 and they're all in a little cage/case thing.) But the filter pad media will just slide in there anyway...but what you should know is the you should very rarely change our your mechanical filter media - only until it just dissolves into nothing should it be replaced. When it gets dirty you should rinse it out in a bowl/bucket of tank water - washing it in anything else will kill the plentiful BB that are living in it.
The fact of the matter is, BB will build up on literally everything in your tank over time and this won't be quite as important. But with a new tank with a BB colony that is just being established, you don't want to kill/remove any of them if at all possible. When too much is removed it stops being self-supporting and will all die. At that point you have to begin the nitrogen cycle all over again. Side note - your filter doesn't "trap" ammonia - it grows BB that take that ammonia and convert it to nitrites and then to nitrates...the nitrogen cycle!
So - to answer your original question - your DG might be sick due to an uncycled tank or your DG might be sick because, well, that's kinda what DG do. They are one of the least healthy fish out there and are prone to disease. Even pristine water conditions can't save them sometimes - they are especially susceptible to dwarf gourami indovirus, which is 100% fatal. I don't know if your gourami are afflicted with it, just letting you know. At any rate, the only thing you can do at this point is to do a 50% water change, get a test kit as soon as possible, and test your water daily until you are sure it's cycled. It'll take a daily commitment, but it's worth it. Hopefully your gourami will make it.
Also - don't use melafix or primafix. You'll accomplish the same thing by putting a 5 dollar bill in your tank - you'll be rid of 5 bucks and your tank won't be any better than it was. Water changes are the best medicine.
/r/aquarium isnt even that good for really learning how to take care of fish. /r/PlantedTank is the best place. theyll tell you youre no good but then immediately list all the things you should do to become great!
also, you should really understand the nitrogen cycle in the tank. here is a simple overview that is worthwhile learning. and get real plants. they help with maintaining the water and by providing a natural and stress free environment for the fish which leads to happier and healthier inhabitants.
If it was me, I'd start by doing this:
I hope this helps! I know it can get a little pricey but it's more than worth it to ensure Flameo's healthy and happy.
Cycling the jar is the culprit, i have a 5.5 gallon tank with just RCS for breeding. there was a lot of initial curves I had to over come. they will jump to the top if the water is really bad, (no oxygen, high ammonia, Nitrites, Nitrates) It took my filter on that aquarium some time to cycle but one day i went to test the water and everything came out perfect so give it some time.
When it comes to the established aquarium, I would take some of the gravel, or a little of the ceramic media from the filter (if you have some) and put that in the jar to help cycle it. A large majority or the beneficial bacteria is in the filter and substrate, not the water column. taking some of the gravel or filtration media, will speed up the process. I have done this a couple times with success, and I have friends who beg me to crack open my Eheims and give them some of the ceramic media :p.
As for the RCS, they will die no matter how perfect your tank is. My parameters are all right, temp is stable, tank is parasite free, and its only RCS, and every once in a while i will see a pink body at the bottom. I fear that online breeders are not keeping their tanks genetically diverse enough, i feel that in time, we will see weaker and weaker cherry shrimp simply due to extensive inbreeding. Dont be afraid to buy shrimp from multiple people to help keep your future tank stable and happy.
If you don't have one already, i HIGHLY suggest you invest in an API Master Test Kit, Amazon has them the cheapest i believe. It will last you quite a while. I use mine several times a week to test my tanks and jars. it will really help you see whats happening during the cycling process.
No matter what don't give up. I know people like to throw an entire jar together and get the their Fauna in there in day one, but this can be disastrous unless you are able to watch the container extremely close for the first couple weeks. Dont be a afraid to start fresh, let it cycle for a couple weeks and then ad your RCS. good luck!
Hi there! I have some aquariums at home too, though I don't have any lotls. I find r/aquariums is pretty reliable for advice when it comes to tank care.
If you want to do some reading about the nitrogen cycle, check here and here.
These and other websites can be found by Googling "aquarium nitrogen cycle" or something similar.
If you have a local fish shop (LFS) nearby, I would suggest going there and talking to employees about getting a tank started, as well as any equipment you may need.
In terms of testing your water parameters, I and many others in the fishkeeping community recommend the API Freshwater Master Test Kit, which can be found here on Amazon or at your local Petsmart or Petco.
When I started keeping fish, I really didn't have anyone around me that could give me pointers. The internet is a great resource. I would definitely recommend joining a couple forums related to aquariums, as well as making good use of Google.
Hopefully this at least gives you somewhere to start!
Yes you need to separate them. Here is a conversation about why they can’t be housed together.
Here you can read about the care requirements of an angel fish. The only fish I’ve ever owned is a betta so I can’t do much more on that subject.
Your current tank is a perfect place to permanently keep your betta. They will love having all that swimming space to themselves. If you really want tankmates you can consider getting snails or shrimp. r/bettafish is a great spot to get the specifics of betta care.
Again you absolutely have to get a filter. I got this sponge filter for my 5.5 gallon betta tank. With this you also need a pump and tubing but you probably already have that with the air pump you have.
You will also need to cycle your tank(s). Basically your fish are producing waste, and the filter is home to bacteria that eats this waste; since you don’t have a filter you need to grow this bacteria from scratch. Get a filter and a liquid test kit like that one. Test your water daily and do daily water changes. You can read about how to fish-in cycle here.
It really depends what you are searching for in your water, but for a lot of things yes!
There are test kits available for aquariums that have reagents and instructions to determine levels of lots of important things in water, like ammonium, nitrite, nitrate and pH.
Complex kits like this
And simpler kits like this
Ammonium, Nitrite and Nitrate levels generally spike if things like Raw Sewage is dumped into the river, or fertilizer from fields has been washed off into the river due to heavy rain.
Understanding Nitrate levels in water is very important, due to it being toxic to human babies. It causes something nicknamed 'blue baby syndrome' by messing with haemoglobin. Nitrate in water is also toxic to animals such as horses and cattle, so keeping an eye on nitrate levels in their water and feed is important so they don't die from nitrate poisoning. Special care should be shown to pregnant animals with regards to nitrate exposure.
pH can also increase if rivers are being "limed" where their pH is being increased, in an effort to negate the acidity caused by growing crops.
For other more obscure ions and minerals you can get little handheld test kits from people like sigma, and Hannah instruments. These can range anywhere from €50 to a few thousand €.
Sorry for wall of text.
tl;dr; yes, aquarium kits on Amazon are useful if you are concerned about water quality.
This is the kit I use and I really like it: https://www.amazon.com/API-Freshwater-Master-Test-Kit/dp/B000255NCI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485890675&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=aquarium+test+kit
Plus, you get to feel all science-y using the vials!
Do you have a water test kit like one of these?
But, it kind of looks like fin rot. How frequently do you change the water and since it is a live planted tank, what/how frequently are you adding to aid in the growth?
If you go to a local pet store they might be able to give you some cycled water or some filter media that you can put in. Don't put a goldfish in there, it will just stress out your remaining fish even more. If you can, get some Prime and some Stress Coat and add them to your tank. You will also need to get a test kit so that you can check the water parameters in your tank. Once you know what the parameters are, get back to us and I can give you some more specific information on how to level it out. (If you can't find a water test kit like the one shown, test strips are better than nothing but I would order a kit ASAP.)
Would this testing kit be worth it? Or would you have any one day amazon recommendations? The ones at the store seemed overly priced.
Lots of opportunities here:
Finally, do you treat the fresh water you use for water changes with a dechlorinator? If not, you need to get your hands on some. The chlorine that is added to municipal water supplies can kill the beneficial bacteria in your tank and lead to dangerous ammonia and/or nitrite spikes.
As far as equipment goes, get an AquaClear 20 (or 30) filter, an Aqueon (or other reliable brand, I've used Hydor with good luck) ADJUSTABLE heater. A thermometer. The lights you get depends on what you plan on doing with your tank. You're also going to need a water testing kit, a dechlorinator (most people will recommend Seachem Prime).
Is this going to be your first aquarium?
The API freshwater test kit is probably your best bet. It will test ammonia, pH, nitrates and nitrites. The strips aren't nearly as accurate.
do you know what the water paramaters are things like the ph ammonia nitrite and nitrate? if not get a test kit like this https://www.amazon.com/API-Freshwater-Master-Test-Kit/dp/B000255NCI it would help us alot if we could know the ammonia nitrite and nitrate.
I'll just give you my generalize copy/pasta I usually hand out in situations like these so if you wanna read it when you got a chance, then you have it! Also has tips and purchase links for Amazon as well for different axolotl stuffs.
HOW TO CYCLE:
1.If your tank isn't cycled, you are going to chemical burn them with ammonia in the water. And they will suffer. Nitrate ( the final of the chemical process) can also burn the fish/axolotl. This is why we keep this number under 40ppm. If it is higher than 40ppm, change the water 75%.
*NOTE: Most bottles of beneficial bacteria say they cycle a tank in a day. Cycling can take up to a month in some cases but usually just two weeks if you keep on it. This requires constantly monitoring, testing and replacing most of the water in the tank when you get high ammonia/nitrite levels. You need ammonia/nitrite to be 0 and nitrate to be more than 0. Definitely less <40. If all your levels are higher than this, or if nitrate remains 0, your tank isn't cycled.***
So basically, cycling builds beneficial bacteria which makes these waste breakdown chemicals go through a cycle of breaking down into a less dangerous form which keeps fish/axolotl from getting sick/dying. ... Most new fish people don't do this. And fish store employees try & tell them just adding something like seachem stability fixes this. It doesn't. An uncycled tank is basically new tank syndrome and it kills animals.
You still are going to need to keep an eye on chemical levels after the cycle..Occasionally different things can cause the cycle to "crash", like changing the filters or a high tempeture, or the filters becoming dry..
Once your tank is cycled, and you have an axolotl, honestly it's not that much work. The cycles the worst part. I feed my adult axolotls once every other day, I change 75% of their water twice a month, and add water to top it off / spot clean occasionally two-three other times a month due to the water I lose due to evaporation.
Stuff you'll need:
Air pump + line + stone.
Ice cube trays for repashy( frozen is better. It's a jello. It will really trash your tank. So frozen is better):
Feeding tongs: They're actually tweezers for planting a planted fish tank. These can grip worms very well.. The Amazon ones that are silver suck and will make your life hell. Don't waste your money on ones on amazon unless you can find these on Amazon.
> How and when should I start up the system and then when after that should I add tilapia and plants?
You should add plants after you get the system into a starting location and have been running the system for a 3-4 weeks. while adding either raw urine or pure concentrations of ammonia daily to the running water. The ideal is to have the nitrite/nitrate cycle stable before adding fish.
> > I'm in USDA zone 7a. People are already planting soil gardens here but I'm guessing our night temperatures aren't quite warm enough for tilapia yet.
Depends upon the breed of tilapia. Blue tilapia can easily live in 40+ degree water. They won't grow very quickly but its surviavable.
> I've heard various recommendations to get the bacteria going: add chemical ammonia and let it run for a while, add disposable minnows or fish and let it cycle with them for a while, or add pond water which will already contain bacteria. I do have a large, healthy pond on my property with many fish so I have easy access to pond water, minnows, bluegill, crawfish, and tadpoles. I'm ok with losing pond fish as the system balances itself but I'll be buying the tilapia from a supplier so I'd rather have the system stable and safe before I add them.
What chemical levels will I need to monitor? What testing kit do I need and where should I get it? Is there a good one on Amazon?
Get the master aquarium testing kit. petco has them and amazon.http://www.amazon.com/API-Freshwater-Master-Test-Kit/dp/B000255NCI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458229467&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=master+aquarium. test for ammonia, nitrites, nitratesm and PH. If you have hundreds of dollars get the oxygen meter too. http://www.amazon.com/Hanna-Instruments-HI9147-04-Water-Resistant-Aquaculture/dp/B0085X2GZ6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458229571&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=dissolved+oxygen+meter
>What kind of fish food and where should I get it?
Feed your self real food from whole ingrediants and feed the scraps to the fish. NO HOTDOGS. course tilapia will eat almost anything. but the main thing to concentrate on is... are you wanting a heavy harvest of fish?
>How many tilapia for this system? I'm hoping to stock them small and then harvest them at the end of the growing season.
Well, thats a 300 gallon system tank. A realatively safe level would be if you stock for aprox 1 pound of fish per 5 gallons of water. 60 pounds of fish at the end of the season, depending on growth.
>What easy to grow, hard to kill plants would you recommend for a beginner in zone 7a? We like full-sized tomatoes, jalapeño peppers, poblano peppers, zucchini, strawberries, and squash if they're not to difficult. If they are I'll probably skip them for the first year. I'm open to suggestions on whatever's easy!
The fruiting stuff will need a couple ounces of phosphorus and potassium added to the media beds. you should consider dual-root zone aquaponics. It allows for amendments to be added to the root zone of the plant instead of indiscriminately to the system.
>The person I got the system from ran it without any aeration aside from the natural splashing as water runs into the growbeds, fish tanks, and sump tanks. Think I'll be ok with this or should I add an aerator?
You will be ok like this most likely... But growth of tilapia follows the 1-1-1 guideline. 1 pound of feed plus 1 pound of oxygen grown for 1 year equals 1 pound. More oxygen will allow the quick growth that your interested in.
Well I have this tank I didn’t pay that much but this is my tank tank tank cover and my rest of my set up that I recommend filter heater
And you need one of these no matter what tank you get api master kit
I'm a little new to the hobby, had my betta for 7 months, but I will answer as best I can.
> 1. Should I cycle my fish tank while my betta is in the bowl, or should I just put him in the tank already and get rid of the bowl right off the bat?
Put him in the tank. A cycling tank will be better for him than the bowl. You need a test kit, this is a good one. You will need to test the water daily, someitmes twice during cycling and hcange the water if you can detect ammonia or nitrite. After that once a week to keep nitrates below 40ppm should be fine.
>2 I've had a fish tank before, and I was wondering if I could put up a bubble wall in the background or if that would be disturbing to him.
Bubblers in a small tank are usually too much for a betta. Someone else chime in about a buble wall, though, I have no experience in that.
>3 Are there any plants that are really low maintenance that I can put in with him?
Java fern, amazon sword, crypts, I believe are all hardy low light plants. /r/PlantedTank will have better advice for plants, I'm still strugling to keep mine alive.
>4 Are there any algae eaters I can put in with him? Can I give him a plecostomus roomie, or would they fight?
Plecos get huge. They are sold as small algea eaters but this and this are not huge for a pleco, they need large tanks and have a large bioload(poop factory).
Mystery snails are good with betta, and nerite snails are algae eating machines. Shimp can be fine with betta, though some betta will just eat them, some leave them alone. Depending on the size of tank you are willing to get, a small school of cory cats or otos might be fine, but you'd need something like 10-20 gallons.
Please be sure to read the info in the side bar. You should really get at least 2.5 gallons, preferably 5 gallons, a filter and a heater, and a bottle of dechlorinator/water condition(seachem prime is good). Cover or hiding place that aren't jagged, these can be live plants, silk plants or caves that don't snag panty hoes when ran across it.
It's so great you want to give your new betta a better home, update us with pics soon!
pH is super important. Basically, if it gets too high plants can't uptake crucial nutrients even though they're present in the water. Most plants that you can grow aquaponically struggle to thrive at around 7.4 and higher. Some, like strawberries, won't grow much above 7.0. Goldfish and algae are much more forgiving about pH - they have no problem up to 8.0+.
The nitrification cycle will naturally lower the pH over time, but if the grow media you're using contains limestone, it will dissolve and raise the pH faster than nitrification can bring it down. Additionally, your city water may have a high pH that you need to balance when topping up water. I use hydrochloric acid from the local hardware store to pH balance my top up water. It's about $8 for 32 oz, and it goes a very long way.
Most people use the API test kits for pH (consensus seems to be that the strips aren't very accurate). There's a low range kit and a high range kit, you'll probably need both. You can also just go for the full test kit. Most fish stores will have these kits as well.
Unfortunately, as /u/vortex1324 said, there is just so many variables to consider at this point that it's really not meaningful without any direction.
Maybe buy/order a test kit: API Freshwater Master Test Kit.
This will make it easier to keep an eye on your water quality.
Get a [check valve](Marina Plastic Check Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002AQIAO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_.jceAbW5X9VMS) for the sponge filter/air pump tubing so the water doesn’t go back into the pump.
You need an [API freshwater master test kit](API FRESHWATER MASTER TEST KIT 800-Test Freshwater Aquarium Water Master Test Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5kceAb9WH26C1) to keep track of ammonia/nitrite/nitrate as you cycle your tank and throughout the life of your tank.
[Dr. Tim’s ammonium chloride](DrTim's Aquatics Ammonium chloride - 2 oz bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006MP4QG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9lceAbCE3EDN2) is optional because you can buy pure ammonia for cheaper at the grocery store, but I used it. It’s an easy way to start and maintain your fishless cycle. Just add 4 drops per gallon of water to bring the ammonia up to 2ppm.
You should probably upgrade your filter, its only rated for 20 gallons. The general rule for turtles is you want filters rated for 2-3 times the gallonage of the tank. The tank is also a bit small for a red eared slider generally adults need 120 gallons of water, or a 4'x2'x2' tank. The stuff on the shell seems to be a fungus or plant of some sort. I would also suggest picking up a water testing kit like this one https://www.amazon.com/API-FRESHWATER-800-Test-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B000255NCI. Since turtles live in water most of the time poor water quality can effect them quite severely.
When you expand, this might be a handy tool for you: AquaAdvisor
Right now, if I were you, I would purchase:
HOB Nano filter
Siphon Water changer/gravel vacuum - Carry your aquarium over to a drain. Keep an empty two liter handy to pour freshwater back in.
You cycled your tank, right? If not, you may want to pour some of this in there to help.
Water Test Kit Keep track 2x a week. Small tanks are more difficult since water conditions can go bad quite quickly. Keeping an aquarium is not about fish, it's about chemistry.
Spiral CFL bulb to replace the incandescent you probably have. Incandescents suck and heat your aquarium way too much.
Thermometer Glass, with suction cup.
Light timer Trust me, keeping that light on all day is only going to cause algae, and won't make your plants grow quicker. 6 hours in the beginning, 8 hours max.
Heater 25 watt, keep at 80 degrees. The gradient lines will NOT be accurate.
Low-tech tank care Study this, and pay attention to the dry fertilization part.
invest in a liquid test kit like this, it will open your eyes to the conditions inside your tank, and you might be surprised how fast ammonia builds up (particularly in a sub-10gallon tank). and yes, I think most here would agree that 4 gals is too small for anything but 1 Betta..
Yeah, hopefully it's not as bad as I'm imagining (I occasionally browse craigslist for aquarium stuff... which might warp my faith in humanity a little bit). It's all applicable to moving an aquarium generally though. The idea being to go with as little change as possible during a stressful event like moving.
My approach would be to simply drain off all the water into buckets (a handy tip for the budget fishkeeper is to hit up your local ice cream shop for some of their empty tubs) with the fish and filter media. I don't usually bother with substrate for a smallish tank (which is light enough for two people to move without any difficulty even with substrate). At the other end, simply fill up the tank from the buckets (gently pouring the fish bucket in last), plug in the equipment and you're done. You can sell it as the easiest, most stress free way to move a fish tank (coming highly recommended from some random guy on the internet). Tell her you don't mind it being a bit dirty; as it'll be less stressful for the fish that way.
API is the usual go-to for test kits. Their master test kit covers all the basics.
So the filter wasn't cycled? That would be a problem.
While adding the 50% cycled water was definitely a good idea, it wouldn't be enough to avoid recycling.
Do you have a test kit? If not, purchase one. (Don't get the strips, they are useless). You will have to monitor your tank every day, to make sure that the ammonia/nitrite/nitrate levels don't exceed what the fish can handle. (see the links to the nitrogen cycle on the side bar)
It will be some work, but you can cycle your tank with the fish in it, and keep him healthy, if you are diligent.
Then once the tank is cycled you can stick to water changes every week, and testing it before you change the water to make sure everything is good.
My male cat needs exercise, and actually requests it every night. As I'm brushing my teeth and whatnot, he'll go and sit on my weight bench in the exercise room. I then go in and fetch his Da Bird from the closet and make him do jumps and flips until he flops on the floor and loses interest. Then he'll sleep from ~11PM til 7AM in one shot, most of the time.
Not only your cat but you too will be fascinated watching the birds. You might need one-way mirror film on the window behind the feeder so the birds won't see your cat.
For you to play with your cat when you are home, nothing tops Da Bird.
If he's slowly warming up to you and improving as time passes, he will hopefully continue this trend. It's only been three weeks. If he starts biting you just say "no" and stop petting him or walk away. Maybe try just sitting next to him for a while without petting him and see if he will come to you. I know you said you play with him, but make sure you are tiring him out during each play session. Wand toys are great for this because your hand is nowhere near the toy part so he will eventually associate the toy with biting and not your hand. This is the absolute best wand toy in my experience.
Dear cat owners:
Before feeding, require that they catch this twice.
1/4 cup dry food morning & evening goes in here.
1/2 small can of wet food before bed.
This will create a svelte, but not too skinny, very happy cat who will love you for longer, be able to lick its ass and clean itself, and not require insulin shots or crazy shit like that later in life.
My big Bengal boy loves his scratching post and playing fetch. My girl loves her Da Bird toy, although I wouldn't get one until they are older due to development and such. I think my breeder recommended not encouraging excessive leaping until they are more developed, similar to not running a puppy under a year of age.
My kitty loves this thing. I got her the "starchaser" one, which basically means that the ball lights up when it's moving.
She's suuuuuper playful for a 7 year old cat. She's got her claws and previously had a regular cardboard scratcher that she loved. This thing takes the cake, though. She plays with it at night when I'm sleeping (and leaves me be!) and I can play with her with it too, by cover it with things (tissue paper is a favorite) or spinning the ball. She tears up the cardboard and loves the ball. It's like kitty crack.
Luna with her toy after about 2 months of play.
It's called a Turbo Scratcher! Amazon link (no referral code): http://www.amazon.com/Bergan-Turbo-Scratcher-Colors-Vary/dp/B000IYSAIW
Just wanna add: it's a great trap AND a great toy! We've fostered hundreds of kittens through the years and that toy Bergen Turbo Track with Scratcher has consistently been the most popular toy in the house and it cannot be broken. It's solid and well made and the kittens go crazy for it. Only about $10-12 and you can buy replacement scratcher pads too. Pro tip: buy an extra couple of twinkly ballsat the same time. They light up and twinkle when in motion so pop one into the track and now it went from a good toy to a great toy. They're cheap (<$3) but are only sold as "add on" items.
That (or variants) is the best cat toy I've found.
I second a more elaborate tower or tree!
I replied to a post similar to this so I'm just gonna yank that answer because these products might be handy for you to consider too, especially if you don't have the time, space, or funds to get a second cat (it's also not a guarantee they'll get along):
What about toys you can hang off door knobs or the tops of doors that mimic you on the other end?
Then there are some good play toys that can be enjoyed solo or with you. Our cats love these Sproket straws because they're woven and bouncy, so the weave can catch in their claws as they bat at it, which lets them toss it around in the air and chase after it on their own, which is like a step up from normal straws (which can also be a good time):
Tracks like these can be a lot of fun for cats even on their own:
If weight/diet isn't an issue and he is food motivated, you can get a treat ball:
We got the purple Kong one with one hole from Petsmart for $6. I "reinforced" mine with tape so it takes longer and more rolling to get the kibble out, but a palm full (0.5 oz) of kibble keeps my younger cat busy for half an hour, and then she stops and goes back to it occasionally throughout the night for short bursts. Definitely keeps her busy.
Our cats really like hanging out and chasing toys in and out of this too: http://www.petsmart.com/cat/toys/toys-r-us-tunnel-pop-up-cat-toy-zid36-11815/cat-36-catid-200099
You're not a bad pet owner; as the former director of the world's largest cat-only adoption organization and sanctury, I hereby absolve you of your concerns about being a bad pet guardian.
If you need some alone time and he's driving you nuts temporarily, puting him in his own little playroom (your bathrooom) is totally appropriate; especially if you leave a few fun things in there for him to play with.
Toys like this:
are great options to keep him entertained.
As they get older, cats tend to spend the vast majority of their time sleeping; he'll get there. Enjoy him as much as you can; and when you need a break, let him have a few hours recess in his playroom.
It's all good...
Oh man...! Interactive toys? Until she got older and lazy, my cat loved her [scratcher ] (https://www.amazon.com/Bergan-Turbo-Scratcher-Cat-Toy/dp/B000IYSAIW/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481180797&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=cat+scratcher). And those little plastic [jingle balls] (https://www.amazon.com/Hartz-Play-Midnight-Crazies-Toys/dp/B000BO96K0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481180915&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=cat+jingle+balls). She likes those hartz ones, I guess because they are easier for her to pick up and carry. We used to find them in bed with us all the time!
Anyway, those two things really helped us get through those kitten crazies. Now we just have to deal with her stealing our pillows and kicking us in the head while we try to sleep!
I've had many cats over the years. Before I knew better I would get them declawed, but haven't done that in well over 15 years. Once you know better, you do better.
We have three clawed kitties and we had trouble getting them to scratch at cat scratchers until we got this one. It even comes with catnip that you can sprinkle in and the cardboard insert is replaceable. Plus the cats love the toy.
Bergan Turbo Scratcher Cat Toy, Colors may vary https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IYSAIW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nsrXzb4EG3KFN
I bought one for my cat. She did not play with it. But she prefers to play with leaves and dryer sheets. She liked the box it came in though
First of all, let me say that you're doing a good thing. So many people abandon pets when they just don't fit into their ideal lifestyle anymore. It's easy to get jaded when you constantly see that. (So ignore downvotes- What's important is that you recognize the issue and are working to resolve it.) You're clarification does help.
Trying a different type of scratching post may work. For example, my current cat adores one made by Kong that has little rubber bristles like this, but he doesn't care for any other scratcher.
Another thought would be a cardboard ball chaser like this. Every cat (other than my current one) always loved to scratch these... plus, ball to chase. And, quite frankly, I've found babies/toddlers to be fascinated by the balls, too.
Plus, as you know, once they find a place they like to scratch- it can be very hard to break that habit. You can also try putting a sheet of tinfoil over the couch (where she likes to sharpen her claws) when you can't be there to monitor it.
The cat quiet space is a great idea! I'm sure she'll appreciate places that she can go to be alone with her kitty thoughts. (I've even used an upper cabinet above the refrigerator to give my cat a break from the children. He could reach it and survey the land, but the kids' couldn't touch him.) High spots are always good. Cats feel safe there and can see (and enjoy being with the family) without having to endure unwanted attention.
The first thing to resolve is playtime. It's possible she just loves plastic, but the fact that she doesn't want to play with you at all suggests either a picky cat, or one that doesn't yet trust you. You're the food provider, but playtime is also quality bonding time for a cat. She's already fully grown, so maybe it's a learned thing, but it's something that you should be able to correct to some extent.
There are some motion cat toys that you could try using to get her playing more on her own.
It's also possible that you aren't playing with her the way she wants to be played with, cats can be very fickle about this. My own cat is very picky about how my SO and I play with her, and she picks one of us based on how she wants to play. She'll pick me when she wants to chase a stick toy, and my SO when she wants to wrestle, that kind of thing.
Have you tried using the straws to play with her? Maybe try hiding a straw under a blanket where she can see it move from wiggling it. You could also try new tactics with the stick toys like this, hide them under things and move them. My cat only likes the stick toys if I alternate between moving them very slowly while in her line of sight, slowly moving out of her line of sight, and then moving it quickly to get her to chase it when she tries to pounce it.
I'd also suggest looking up different playtime techniques for cats online, like on YouTube or what have you, especially related to more wild/feral cats, as they also don't really like playing with humans. I'm not saying she's wild of course, but because she's more standoffish from you it may be along the same lines.
If you can get her to play with you consistently, then you can very easily tire her out and get her on the schedule YOU want her on. The idea is that cats hunt/play and then eat the reward of the hunt, and then sleep.
My own cat used to be very similar with waking us up very early for food, usually by making lots of noise and biting if that didn't work. Once we were able to get her on the hunt/eat/sleep schedule with her timed meals, we basically stopped the bad morning behavior entirely.
Sorry for the long post, hope this helps!
For the litter tracking problem I'd recommend a top-loading litter box or just buy a large plastic bin and carve a hole out of the top if you're handy with tools. This almost completely eliminated the litter tracking problem in my house with two cats.
As for spilling water, I would suggest getting a heavier ceramic water bowl with non-slip feet and placing it on a feeding mat. You could even invest a pet water fountain like this one (which are large and virtually impossible to knock down) if you find that your cats enjoy running water more than standing water.
We have something kind of like this for the water. Then no screaming for food or water. You don't have to reward his screaming with pets, either, if you just ignore it and then only pet him when he's not screaming.
I understand how annoying it is. We ran out of dry food recently and had to feed him wet food a few times. It's taken weeks to get the screaming to stop. I hate our cat so much. This thread gives me hope because our first is due in August and I want nothing more than for my husband to start feeling the same way so we can put him down. (He's old. And hardly potty trained, so we can't just give him away.)
You guys are fabulous. I see both of you around here a lot and it amazes me how generous you both are.
Gift One: I would really love this. I want my cat to be as healthy as she can be and if this can help her to stay more hydrated, that would be fantastic!
Gift Two: I want dis! C'mon...gimme.
Thank you so much for the opportunity!
Seconding the water fountain. Running water is infinitely more attractive to cats. One with a charcoal filter is even better. This is what we have. If you live in a place with horrible water, use filtered stuff from a Brita pitcher or bottled.
Mine loves the taste of ice, as well (yes, it has a taste). I plunk ice cubes in his bowl on hot days. He runs right over and slurps away.
Don't keep the water next to the food bowl. For some reason, cats don't like that! As /u/libcrypto says, several bowls out at strategic locations will help with this.
have you tried one of these My cat is a total jerk and will tip over her water bowls, but these fountains are suppose to entice them to drink more with the fresh running water.
Exactly. Our cat was always licking the faucet to signal us to turn it on. We bought one of these and he loves it, and has also stopped licking the faucet.
Congrats on the MC!
I have two MCs....
Also, cats don't like their food and water in the same spot . I found my cats tend to drink way more water and it stays cleaner when they are in different areas. Previously i was cleaning their water daily because my silly cats were dropping their kibbles into the water, or their food was getting sugar ants.
Everyone has given u a lot of wonderful advice here! Some of which i actually wish I knew when i was getting my babies! Good luck and enjoy your new kitten :)
I got my cats one of these a couple years ago. It's awesome. There's a little filter in in (since city water is kinda gross, at least in my building), and it holds a lot of water, which means during times like the hot summer we just had, I can go to work or away for a day or two without being worried about my cats water supply.
I have the PetSafe Drinkwell Platinum Pet Fountain. its quiet, my guys love it and it goes a couple of days without a refill.
They deserve to be spoiled :)
This is the fountain I'm using, been working great so far.
Sorry, here it is: PetSafe SSScat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RIA95G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1rNJyb07Z370K
This is what we used, not the exact brand but this looks like it works even better! It is scentless to us, so it wont bother you at all.
SSSCAT is a pretty awesome product. We used it on our counters and a deterrent from the christmas tree. We got this product in our first apartment with our kitty and it worked well. What is nice is its sensored. So we can have it on at night when we can't see her and scold her.
May I suggest this?
This is the one we use. He's had it for a couple of months and it's still in good shape considering he abuses it and sends it flying across the room constantly, and it was like 8$. Plus it has adjustable holes so you can make it easier while they learn to use it then harder after and it works with different kibble sizes.
Food puzzles ! I give our girl a treat dispensing ball with treats in it to keep her occupied - keeps them mentally stimulated and gets a bit of exercise in too. We have one that you can change the difficulty level in, and I also put a small weight in it to throw the balance off and keep it unpredictable for her.
We started her on easy puzzles like a toilet roll with the ends covered and a hole in it to get her used to having to fossick / problem solve. Then you can move onto more advanced puzzles !
There are a whole bunch of websites if u want to make your own out of boxes etc, otherwise there are some very cheap ones on amazon.
This I the one we have and mishka loves it
First, I would remove the male, leaving only the gravid female. Assuming the eggs are fertile, you'll slowly see them develop over the next few weeks until you can begin to see little crayfish inside each one. I don't think you need to swap out your filter; I prefer covering the intake with a sponge pre-filter (e.g.). I say this because you're going to want to keep your tank clean while minimizing water changes which could lead to you sucking up tiny crayfish.
Once you get to the point where eye spots develop in the eggs (two little black dots), you'll know the eggs are close to hatching. Monitor them closely as you'll want to remove the female shortly after the babies hatch and begin to move around freely. If you don't remove the female, she'll eventually eat the babies.
Once the babies are on their own, it's pretty easy. I feed them like I do adult crayfish, except that I grind the food up a little bit. For example, ground up algae wafers are always welcome. Make sure you provide plenty of hiding places for them to seek shelter when they molt, which they will do very frequently at first.
Good luck and keep us posted!
I'm not 100% sure this will fit, but I've used the fluval edge pre filter sponge on the an Aqueon Quietflow filter for my 10 gallon.
Fluval Edge PreFilter Sponge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LL32RY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RzHvDbTQG9SRH
One of these bad boys.
I use this, which is a just a discounted version of this.
Visually it's cumbersome, but it works like a charm. If my tank were facing the other direction (I have it so the return nozzle is at the "front") it would be a lot less noticeable.
Despite the space it takes, I feel like Touch has regained part of the tank that he wasn't really enjoying, because the return current was so strong that he was getting a little blown around in there.
He's lovely! His colors are so vibrant. Just a word of warning, you might wanna pick up a prefilter sponge to stick over your filter intake like these.
Bettas are curious little guys and are notorious for tearing their fins on that kind of stuff. Just figured I'd let you know, he's a gorgeous fish!
The tank looks like a fluval spec, right? Get yourself one of these, cut it to size, and stick it over the filter outflow nozzle. It will keep the flow gentle while still allowing your filter to work. You do need the filter on.
I would also suggest increasing the temp. He will get stressed out at lower temperatures, which will lower his immune system. You can also stick an indian almond leaf in there, which releases tannins that are beneficial to healing.
I use one of these! I just popped it on the filter output. I later poked bigger holes in it and trimmed the end with the hole a bit shorter. I'm still feeling like my filter is too still, but my betta adores it. The tank gets grimy though so I might find a different solution.
When I visit my mom, I feed the dog through this toy. I set up an exercise pen (so the ball doesn't get lost under furniture and the food stays contained), put the kibble in the ball, set the ball to the hardest setting, and then put the ball + dog in the pen together. The dog ends up pushing the ball around and around the pen. He eats and gets a mini work out. Even though I still have to walk him, it does burn a bit of energy. For my large dog at least, I end up refilling the ball about 4 times to feed him his meal. (He eats 3 small meals instead of 2 meals a day.) The point here is that the dog will be too tired to cause trouble. This is one idea for you.
You can also try using bitter spray on your belongings so that your dog doesn't try to bite things she shouldn't be biting.
However, my best idea for you is that you consider crate training the dog. It is safe for your home, but more importantly, it is safe for your dog so that she doesn't ingest anything potentially dangerous. It keeps her protected and in a safe place where you don't have to worry about her. You can give her a bigger crate if you're concerned she needs space. There are lots of resources out there that talk about it (r/puppy101 & r/Dogtraining) and while it may take time until your dog is fully crate trained, it 1) deals with the separation anxiety, 2) protects the furniture from being destroyed, 3) protects the dog from getting hurt while alone.
ACDs are quite the toy destroyers aren't they? Although my guy isn't quite as esteemed in the destruction field as an ACD, he is pretty bad. Here's what has survived him:
Reading my list, god damn my dog is spoiled. Keep in mind, these are just the toys that have made it. I'm not even counting the ones he's destroyed!
Let me know if you have any questions!
Lastly, I don't own a husky, but man do I respect the destruction a husky can wreck. I would recommend going to a husky group on facebook or a subreddit to see what toys they would recommend. If it's husky approved... it should last.
I got a 6 year old dog about 4 years ago. He spent the first 2+ years of his life in a cage alone, then a few years living with a family. He also didn't care for toys or playing with other dogs. He's started playing well with my puppy over the last few months, but before that he didn't play with anyone for more than maybe a 10 second game of chase in the yard.
For toys, I taught him "take it" to get him to pick up a toy. He'll humor me and take what I offer him, but very rarely does he actually play with a toy. He sometimes squeaks a toy a bit if he doesn't think I'm paying attention, but as soon as I notice he drops it and expects pets. He really only cares about bones and kongs.
His life isn't any less fun for him because he's not keen on toys. He's smart enough to know what toys are for, just not interested in spending his time squeaking something when he could be sleeping on the couch!
For yours, if he likes food and sometimes chases the ball, I'd probably try a puzzle toy that involves pushing the ball around to dispense treats. This particular one is big enough not to roll under my couch. He may get the idea to chase it if the treats are coming from the ball and not you. You can also throw out some kibbles into the yard and let him hunt them out.
Also, keep in mind that it could take weeks or even months for a new rescue to adjust to you and your home, especially if he's used to living on the streets or in a kennel at the shelter. I'm not sure how new he is to you, but you may find he comes out of his shell as time goes on and he sees you playing fetch with your other dogs.
Everyone so far has already recommended exercise, which I also recommend. Some people said mental exercise as well, which can wear her out and keep her busy. So, I'm throwing in food toys that make her work for her food (which I'm assuming you probably just pour kibble in a bowl) which can add some more exercise, both physical and mental. Kongs (which are actually not a personal favorite of mine) for when you leave are great. Freeze them and they are harder to get food from. I personally love IQ balls which are perfect spheres and make dogs more or less run around the house after the toy (my guys normally are panting after working to get all the food out). Here are some others since it is a good thing to switch it up and keep her thinking, not just use the same toy over and over (because that would be boring):
PetSafe Egg thing
PetSafe Mushroom thing
And in the event you are like "I'M POOR, I CANNOT AFFORD ALL OF THOSE." You can also get a 2 liter bottle and cut holes in it big enough for her to get food out of but not too easily. Also, the mushroom toy has pretty small holes so it isn't easy for bigger kibble (or dog treats), so you might forgo that one. Those are just the ones I own.
ALSO ALSO. PSA FOR EVERYONE. If you shop Amazon Smile (which is where those links take you) you can donate %.05 of all purchases to a charity of your choice. So you should definitely sign up, choose a charity and donate while you shop instead of just shopping. Nothing changes except you shop from Amazon Smile instead of Amazon.
Here's an example of a slow eat dog bowl that /u/ZorglubDK mentioned.
When they work the dog is forced to take much longer to eat their food instead of inhaling it all in big gulps. It also doubles as a sort of play time and brain game since the dog has to work to get the food.
Sometimes the dog is too smart for the bowl though. When that happens... I guess you could somehow secure the bowl to the floor.
The feeder balls mentioned work in much the same way. Put the food in the ball and the dog has to roll it around to get the food out.
Kongs are the simplest and its really easy to "level up". Start by just putting in dry kibble, then wet kibble, then freeze the wet kibble and seal up the big hole with yogurt or peanut butter. Then you can layer it so its frozen wet kibble, cheese, kibble, yogurt, kibble, peanut butter etc. It'll start taking longer and longer to get everything out. My pup loves the Kong Wobbler too! Not only does it tire him out, but it spreads out his meal so he doesn't eat it as fast. Same with the IQ ball. The puzzle board was great for awhile but then got too easy for him. Snuffle mats are pretty easy to DIY too if you don't want to fork over the money to buy a real one.
Sometimes Badger gets part of his food for the day in a treat ball (this one). It's great for his kibble, though noisy on the non-carpeted floor, and he loses it under furniture all the time so he doesn't have it unattended.
It's pretty feasible for him to eat a good portion of his food this way because he's only 12 lbs. and he eats about 3/4 cup of kibble a day. Most of the time we feed him at least one meal in his bowl. It takes two kibble balls to be about equivalent to one meal.
Yeah, most of those would get destroyed in minutes in our house.
Firstly, as I'm sure you know, plan to take her on a decent walk first. It's not always possible, but it helps with the process. Then there's a little wind-down time when we get back to the house.
Anyway, as for toys, your real question, I suggest one of these two:
We get some tiny little treats to pop in there and it has good success. Noodle still tries to play with it at my feet, but at least it keeps him occupied. But, as Aussies are velcro pups, he only plays with it in the same room that we're in.
The other thing that could help (if what you want to get done is in the same general area) is to keep treats in your pocket and continuing to reward for staying on her bed. So as you're working, toss a treat back. Maybe every 30 seconds at first and then lengthen the time. Our "Go to your bed" command is pretty rock solid at this point...but the staying part is certainly something that can be continuously worked on.
Good luck! And seriously, that Weazeball will die a horrible death in minutes. Don't waste your money.
My partner built him something like this.
I also got him these two puzzles that I only give him when I'm home, just for safety reasons: this "level 2" one that he solved in 30 seconds and this "level 3" one that he hasn't quite gotten the opening drawer part down yet.
He also has this treat ball that he LOVES, but I don't recommend if you live in an apartment/condo with hard floors.
His favorite that he carries around and chucks down our stairs to open is this mushroom.
He also gets kongs with peanut butter in them.
Amazon gets a lot of my money. Lol.
I had a fatty that looked just like this. May I recommend one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ARUKTG
It worked wonders to get his weight down and teach him not to hork his meals down super fast.
Edit: actually, this is the one I used https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0018CE8LQ
Feed him with this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003ARUKTG/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_8?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;psc=1
Anyone have a dog you can borrow to come over and play with him while you work? Other dog friends are great for exhausting pups. Plus it's very good for socializing.
Just like with children, the excess of energy could be due to something more than lack of exercise. His little puppy brain might not be getting enough stimulation. He also may be wanting to chew/gnaw something. Give him the food ball, and a healthy dog bone chew.
Also, quick tip: make sure he has a dedicated space that is his own. A place like a den that is for happy feelings (give him treats in said place) and sleep; like a crate with a comfy bed. And NEVER feed your dog a meal and then overwork/ run him, it may cause BLOAT.
tl; dr : food ball, dog friend, dog chew.
> I swear he is nocturnal.
That's because he is, heh. Cats are partially to fully nocturnal. That's why they seem so lazy and uncaring during the day, only to become giant pains in the butt at bedtime. (Or 2am, or 3am...)
Firstly, don't feed him too much too late in the evening. If he's a natural grazer, put food out in the morning only. If he wolfs everything down at once, feed him a larger meal in the morning right before you leave, then a smaller meal as soon as you get in. This can help keep his energy levels in check.
If you really need him to stay away from the blinds or off a desk, try the Ssscat. It's pressurized air with a motion sensor. While the air doesn't hurt the cat, it helps to scare kitty away. Also, try draping a blanket over your chair to muffle the sounds and prevent scratching.
But they sell this.
The landlords in my cattery require [these] (http://www.amazon.com/Ssscat-KIT19001-SSSCAT-Cat-Training/dp/B000RIA95G) on all raised surfaces prevent an uprising from US catties.
Get a couple of these. You put it on the counter when you leave and if the cat decides to jump up there the can senses it and sprays the lil fucker. You won't need to buy replacements when they're out either. The cat will get the picture!
I noticed that my HT sets off the motion-activated cat destroyer when I have a tiger tail added and transmit on 70cm. Interestingly, it doesn't do it without the tiger tail.
When it didn't do it before, was the antenna in a different place? Perhaps not on top of the metal cabinet?
My wife and I have two cats and we've been thinking about that. Part of it is confidence that your cat has their own space to run, hide, or perch so that they don't even really think of messing with the kid.
But we've also had luck in keeping the cats out of our room at night with Ssscat. They learn pretty quick, when that can is out it's a no-go area.
I recently purchased a Ssscat (https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-PDT00-13914-SSSCAT-Spray-Deterrent/dp/B000RIA95G) to keep them away from certain areas and it seems to be working so far.
motion sensor stuff.
i know some folks do a motion sensor sprinkler.
if you're not in a particularly rainy area or keep good tabs on the weather, you could try Ssscat or something similar.
I haven't used it outside but I've used it indoors with great effect on the kitties.
There are a number of motion-activated or remote-activated sprinkers you could get, I believe they were made with your specific problem in mind. Here are some examples from a Google search:
Set something like this up near your birdfeeder and after a few soakings the cat will probably leave your yard alone.
This will spray him with a gas and he'll learn pretty quick.
You need to get ssscat spray.
This is worth every penny, and we have two! One is currently under the Christmas tree, and one is outside our bedroom door. We don't even leave them on anymore because the cats are afraid that they'll be sprayed and don't go near them.
I bought two of these. No risk of getting other things wet, and it's hilarious every time it goes off! http://www.amazon.com/Ssscat-PDT00-13914-SSSCAT-Cat-Training/dp/B000RIA95G
Scat mat: https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-ScatMat-Indoor-Training-Electronic/dp/B0007NTBJ6/ref=br_lf_m_obag9nqtcktf8rm_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;s=pet-supplies
Motion detector spray: https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-PDT00-13914-SSSCAT-Spray-Deterrent/dp/B000RIA95G/ref=br_lf_m_obag9nqtcktf8rm_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;s=pet-supplies
HAVE YOU TRIED SSSCAT?!?! Our kitten is very frisky at night, so we bought this product off Amazon called Ssscat—essentially a canister of compressed air that has a motion detector on it and releases a puff of air if kitty walks by. Not enough to really scare him, but enough to deter the behavior! We use it outside our bedroom and it has HONESTLY been a lifesaver because kitty doesn’t bug us every night!!! He doesn’t even really try to get inside anymore. Just bought one for the guest room for when people sleep over. Can’t recommend highly enough! You’re $30 away from better sleep.
Buy Ssscat on Amazon
I put this under my tree: http://www.amazon.com/Ssscat-PDT00-13914-SSSCAT-Cat-Training/dp/B000RIA95G
None of my cats touch the tree anymore :)
No :) the point of this is that it has sensors so the cat doesn’t associate you with anything negative!
So there are these things called Soft Claws. They are little nail caps that you glue on your cat's nails to prevent them from damaging things when scratching. They work great!
If they are worried about him jumping on counters, there is this motion detect compressed air thing called SSSCat training aid. These are really great for keeping cats away from things you really don't want them to stay away from. I always use one for the Christmas tree. No kind of training will keep my cats away from the temptation of a Christmas tree! So these would really be useful for things that your cat is absolutely forbidden to jump on.
A good cat climber near a window in the common areas will reduce his interest to scratch up stuff as well.
This cage is very nice and probably the best option https://www.amazon.com/Prevue-Products-Wrought-F040-31-Inch/dp/B00176F5L0
And this is another cage that could work I think https://www.amazon.com/Prevue-Products-Flight-Cage-White/dp/B001NPX5BC/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?keywords=prevue+bird+cage&amp;qid=1562041913&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=prevue+&amp;sr=8-17
Hullo. I actually do have the same cage though it is to house a single conure. For two diamond dove, I would recommend a bigger cage. I am a big fan of this cage from the same company.
It was a pretty good cage for my Green Cheek, but I ended up upgrading him to a bigger one. This is the one I ended up buying. The bars are little for flimsy, but not enough to effect anything. I would consider some flight space for your budgies!
This is just my two cents, but for a brand new GCC, this cage looks great. Especially if he gets lots of out of cage time. If he's going to be in there more often than not, then I'd suggest an upgrade when you can. This is the cage I have my GCC Bob in, and he loves it. He is out of his cage pretty much all day right now, but last semester that wasn't the case, and it won't be the case next semester, so it's good to have extra space for them. Here is another example of a good sized cage that he would love. For the record, I don't think Bob will be getting another cage for any reason other than if his current one breaks, so no worry about getting a new cage every year. I had him in a cage about the same size as yours when I first got him at 8 weeks old, and he did fine in it. It just became apparent that he would probably like some more room, so when I had some spare cash, I upgraded it for him.
As for your cuddle tent thingy, when I first got Bob, he LOVED it. Every night when I would put him in to bed, he would jump right in his tent and make all sorts of cute little chirpy noises. We've had him for about 8 months, and he's pretty much indifferent to it now and sleeps on a perch, though I've not noticed a safety issue with it thus far. Your bird may differ, but that's what mine did.
Edit: I forgot to link the other cage. Fixed now.
You should go for something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Prevue-Products-Wrought-F040-31-Inch/dp/B00176F5L0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1426634433&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=large+bird+cage
With a little perch rearrangement and other stuff, something like that should be fine. However, if you can find or build something bigger, better yet!
If you go for a cage, though, be sure to tame them so they can have some time outside (in a closed, safe room) to fly around.
This is the cage I use.
I actually have 2 of them, one for both my tiel and GCC, and they both love them.
It's a pain in the ass to put together, and the spring doors on the side can be a problem (zip tied them shut), but it's overall pretty good for it's price.
I got my two budgies this cage!
It may seem like overkill, but I will never have budgies in a cage smaller than this ever again. It's decked out with tons of enrichment toys (shredding, foraging, ect). They absolutely love it.
Theres a ton of room for different sized perches, and lots of space. But of course since it's mating season, my budgies still get occasionally annoyed at each other over toys and such. It happens.
But for real, I would 100% recommend upgrading to something this size. And this is probably the best price for a cage this size. Trust me, you won't regret it once you see how much fun it is for them!!
this is the cage I have for my 2 budgies. It has plenty of space for the two of them, plenty of perches and toys, and it’s big enough to where if they’re feeling more independent they have plenty of individual space too. I see a lot of other people with this cage as well. I honestly wouldn’t buy any other cage than this because it just works so perfectly.
Get yourself one of these: https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-SlimCat-Meal-Dispensing-Blue/dp/B0018CG40O.
Makes your cat work for his food and does not allow for over eating. Your cat will thank you.
If he eats dry food, maybe look into something like this : https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-SlimCat-Meal-Dispensing-Blue/dp/B0018CG40O
Also, quality of food may be a factor, wet food is better than dry food. If you need to stick to dry food, grain-free is better than regular (cats can't digest carbohydrates in grain and it just turns them fat).
We have the ball, but we block a couple of the holes with tape.
This one is our favorite and it is funny to watch
And we originally got this one, made them super angry but now they like it
We switch up what one we feed them in to keep it interesting. They are much happier now, less destructive, and are kept entertained
I might be able to help you here. Having a husky cross, she would pull like CRAZY on the lease. It's bred into her, and I reinforce it when I hook her up to a harness and pull me on skis/rollerblades. So I've tried a bunch of things. It became especially important since I've moved from the great wide open of New Hampshire, to the cramped crappiness of Boston... I highly recommend the Gentle Leader here ... I used it for a couple years (I bet your dog will get the point in a couple weeks), and now I don't need to use it anymore. Sometimes if she is in desperate need of a walk and starts pulling, I will hold her lease right by where it connects to her collar and keep her walking right by my side, calmly, and focused on me rather than everything else around her.
I also heard the stopping when she pulls trick, and I know it works for some dogs, but it absolutely didn't work for mine even after a ton of persistence.
Hey thanks for that dog cake recipe btw! I am definitely going to try that!
It's a gentle leader! It isn't a muzzle, he has full movement of his mouth. When he pulls, it gently pulls his head to the side, preventing him from pulling harder. Here: http://www.amazon.com/Premier-Pet-Products-Gentle-Leader-Headcollar-Large/dp/B00074L4W2
Have you tried using a gentle leader? Makes walking my beag so much easier. She hates it, but it taught her to walk nicely on the leash and now I just use a regular harness.
She's only 8 months old and you are definitely right about several things - she destroys stuff (shoes, couch, anything she can find on the floor) on a regular basis and it can be very frustrating. But she's also sweet, loving, friendly with people and other dogs, and amusingly derpy. Overall, I don't think she is THAT much worse than other puppies. Exercise helps a ton.
please tell me you arnt using one of those retractable leashes. Get a no pull head harness like either of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00074L4W2
I assume the old collar broke because he/she always pulls on walks? Try getting a gentle leader leash. It takes away their leverage, doesn't result in them choking themselves and ultimately keeps them from always being at the end of the leash. I have them for my two pits and they work wonders.
I have two active dogs. Without their gentle leaders they are the worst. As soon as you put them on. They are fantastic dogs on walks/runs.
I've kept Bettas on a budget before- there are some things that you really do need, and some things you can do ugly and cheap. The trouble is that you're starting with two and have limited space, a bad combination. I'd suggest you really try hard to rehome at least one, but proceeding on the idea that you're absolutely determined to keep both, I'll lay out the least expensive way to get things done in my experience.
To pick up now:
-Dechlorinater/water conditioner: In your grandma's days, there were fewer additives in water than they are now, and not all of them gas off when left to sit out. If you absolutely can't afford even a tiny container of prime, which can really help in small tank situations because it temporarily neutralizes ammonia- then pick up a cheaper water treatment. Most pet stores carry generic ones, or API is $4 and change on amazon. Can't emphasize enough how much better prime would be though. The smallest bottle should last you for a couple months, so don't worry too much about volume.
-If you can do it, Petco's dollar/gallon sale is the best value you're likely to get on a 10G, as mentioned. Failing that, check your local thrift stores. I think a 10G would be ideal for you if you can make it work- it'll be cheapest and the least amount of maintenance, if you use dividers. Here's a way to make mesh dividers for it yourself from things you can pick up at any craft store, for a couple bucks total (you can also make lids out of the same material). I've made these before and as long as you measure them right, they work fine. If you absolutely can't get or fit a 10g, you bare minimum need about 3g per betta in separate containers or you'll be courting ammonia burns and finrot super quickly. Bowls aren't ideal, but if you're doing a temporary setup they may be easier to find. Be creative if you have to- you want something with horizontal swimming space, rather than vertical (avoid anything taller than it is long), but there are all kinds of odd glass vessels at your average salvation army. A ~3.5 gallon spherical bowl is going to be 12" in diameter. Anything with flat sides, measure and calculate the rough volume in cubic inches, then convert to gallons. Whatever you get, clean it thoroughly. If you use bleach, let it sit out in the sun for a few hours before filling it with water.
-Hides: Cheapest part. In college I had a Betta setup with a half-buried coffee mug and some silk plants from Michaels in it. Grab a couple mugs at the thrift store or throw in your least favorites. You want ceramic not plastic or metal, minimal or no paint if possible. Bury them halfway in the substrate. Craft store silk plants are inexpensive and are fine in a pinch, just boil them first. You want at least some that reach up to the top of the tank, to give them cover at all levels.
-Substrate: Whatever's cheapest is fine. A 5lb bag of imaginarium sand will run you $5 or so at petsmart. If you have a local fish store, they may sell gravel or sand in bulk for cents to the pound, so you could call around and ask. Whatever you use give it a quick rinse before adding it.
-Here's a $10 adjustable amazon heater. If you're doing two 5 gallons, get two 25 watts. A 10 gallon divided, get the 50 watt. A heater goes a long long way to keeping your fish healthy- once you need to start buying medicine your budget is blown. You won't see many non-adjustable ones for much less than this, and they're less reliable since they heat at a constant rate regardless of water temp. Get a cheap glass thermometer with it, they're in any big-box pet store.
To pick up soon:
-Filters and pumps: Sponge filters are the way to go in small betta setups for sure, and they are extremely cheap online. Here's one for $2 for a 10G; here's the one I use in my 7G for $4. Make sure to carefully read the guide on cycling before you put a filter in, because things will get less stable before they get more stable, which is why in your situation I'd be vigilant about water changes (see the caresheet for frequency) and put off the filter til you can afford an API test kit. Because things can spike so so fast, it's really not advisable to run through a fish-in cycle blind in any small tank. You'll pair it with an air pump, this one's $7.
-API master test kit: This is the most expensive thing on the list, which is the only reason it's under later. API also makes test strips, but they're $10 for a pack of 25, wheras the master test kit has far far more uses in it for $20 and is much more accurate. Knowing your water parameters is good any day, but essential once you introduce any kind of filter.
Altogether I think you could get this kind of absolute barebones setup done for around $30 up front and $30 later if you play your cards right, less if you find a home for one fish. It'll still require elbow grease to put together, though.
something like this:
Bubbles are great for both playing and helping a little bit with oxygenation in your tank (but not a whole lot). My oranda loves to play in them. You really can't go wrong by adding one I don't think, unless you find down the line your fish likes to eat bubbles.
I use Tetra Whispers. I have a 10g one and the 40g one - what you're seeing in the pictures is the 40g on a split air line, full blast. They're not that noisy - not that much if at all noiser than the filter you use at least. I have one on a non-slip pad and the other on a hand towel and they're quiet. The air stone is just a generic one I got offline, it's circular.
Hmm odd that the water fizzed up. Did you rinse out the tank and rinse off the carbon and decorations before putting them in? The fact that you can smell chlorine is probably a good indicator you are best of to switch to a different water conditioner. (I like Seachem Prime.) Betta's like a low flow filter so just keep an eye on the filter or even switch to a sponge filter, or filter with a sponge over the intake, etc. Remeber to test your tap water too! I will link some products I have used or similar to those I have used in the past and had success with. (It may be a good idea to compare prices at your LFS store to Amazon, as I know my local Petsmart/Petco charges a fortune for a lot of aquarium items without much selection.)
API Freshwater Test Kit (Amazon wow $19.99 right now!) or at your LFS -Don't buy the test strips.
SeaChem Prime ($4-$13 depending on size from Amazon or at your LFS. I swear by Prime.)
A thermometer is a good idea to make sure your heater does not create a major issue. I do not use this exact one but figured I would add it to the list with a link ($2)
Here I will just attach a link for a sponge filter I use in a 10 gallon (~$12). You will need some airline hosing and an air pump (tetra air pump works) if you get it, though I think it may be a little big for a 4 gallon. Also, an aquaclear is by far my favorite HOB filter if you go that route. Hopefully, your filter will workout!
Tetra Air pump (~$7)
Aquaclear 20 (110V ~$25): This may be a little big for your 4 gallon, not sure as I have the Aquaclear 50 on my 30 gallon but I will add it along just in case.
Airline Tubing (a few dollars, great to have)
Household Ammonia without surfactant (to do your fishless cycle) see link http://www.fishkeeping.co.uk/articles_51/fishless-cycling-article.htm
If you decide to go with silk aquarium plants, they have few fun options online. I would also suggest really plants as they will help reduce nitrates in the future. Some good low-tech plants would be anubias, or java fern (and some others). These can be tied to a rock or driftwood as don't need to be placed in the gravel/sand/soil itself. (A small clip-on LED for an aquarium should work
if you go this route.)
I would provide food options, but r/bettafish has done a great job!
Here are a few they have mentioned:
Ocean Nutrition Atison's Betta Food (~12)
New Life Spectrum Betta Formula (~$10)
Hikari Betta Bio-Gold (~$13)
You should be able to find frozen daphnia, and frozen brine shrimp at Petco/Petsmart, and live brine shrimp at your LFS.
Will add on later! Happy cycling and keep us posted!
Also I recommend getting a 10g since they are probably cheaper and more stable since you have a larger volume of water. And stable water means a higher survival rate of your shrimp.
For example here:
10 Gallon tank for 14,99 http://www.petsmart.com/fish/supplies/aquariums-and-stands/aquariums/grreat-choice-10-gallon-glass-aquarium-2831264.html
A double sponge filter which is good for twice the aquarium volume (cleaner water double sponge is double bacteria). for 3,99
An air pump for 5,59
25 feet tubing 3.23
14,49 for a heater
That's twice the size for 42,40. You will only need to buy a light and those can be as cheap or expensive as you want but this not required and purely aesthetic again.
We used a method called "Make Like A Tree" when training my GSD to walk nicely on a leash. Your dog is definitely not too old for it.
Start at your door like you're about to go for a walk. Hold the leash low enough so that it gets taut as soon as her shoulder passes your thigh. She should not have very much room to go in front of you at all before she is pulling. As soon as you open the door, she's probably going to try to walk out in front of you, right? So stand your ground, hold her leash in that position and don't move. Let her pull and tug and lunge out the door and completely ignore her. Have a treat on hand so that as soon as she realizes her efforts are futile and turns her attention back to you, you can reward her. Lure her back to your side with a treat (this may need to be a really high-value treat if she's a serious puller). As soon as she's sitting by your side in a heel position take one step out the door. If she immediately lunges ahead of you, just freeze and wait until she turns her attention towards you again. If it's taking her a long time to focus on you, you can try making funny noises, whistling, and saying her name to try and shorten the time that she isn't listening. Repeat the same thing as before, luring her back to your side and take another step. Keep doing this, just in your front yard. I've found that it helps to set a timer on my phone and keep it in my back pocket. I tend to get frustrated with my pup when he doesn't listen (don't we all?) so I set a timer for 15 minutes. After that, we go inside for a little while and try again later. You being frustrated is going to cause you to expect more of the dog and be rougher on the leash, both of which will just cause her training to go slower. This is a pretty lengthy process that requires a lot of patience, but it's so worth it in the end.
Once she understands the concept of staying by your side in front of your house, start going around the neighborhood or down the street. When she's by your side continually praise her in a happy, cheery voice. I've found it helpful to teach my boy "Watch me!" so that whenever I give him the command, he will look up at me. This is great for when I see another person or dog approaching him and know he is going to want to pull. I say watch me ahead of time and continually feed him treats until we are past the distraction. If your dog does pull, just do the same thing as the beginning- freeze and hold your ground until she's back in the heel position.
I would recommend getting a martingale collar for your pup, or a front-latching harness. The martingale collar will tighten a little when the dog pulls, which I have found to help them understand why you are stopping. It's also better for their neck, as it distributes the weight of their pulling across the entire circumference of the neck, instead of right on their trachea. The added bonus is that it self-tightens, so she can't slip out of it if she starts throwing her head around in frustration. Don't confuse this with a choke chain or prong collar or anything. The martingale can only tighten a little bit, and it's usually made out of heavier fabric, so it will loosen as soon as your pup stops pulling. The front-latching harness is really helpful because it will turn your dog to face you whenever he pulls, but cinching across his shoulders and not letting him walk any further. This is great, because you'll want to lure him into a heel position every time he gets ahead of you on the leash and what better way to do that then have him already face you! It's also useful if your pup is an especially strong puller. The harness will stop her motion as soon as the leash is taut, so it's much easier for you to control her if she's really strong. I had a ton of success with the front-latching harness and my pup. Hope this helps!
We love our Easy Walk harness. It really helped our pitty stop pulling on walks, since the D ring clip is in the front and not between the shoulders. Its tough and adjustable.
I've never used OPs harness. Our problem pooch uses the Gentle Leader which works wonders since it controls her head (and is thus uncomfortable to pull). The Easy Walk worked for her until she learned to manipulate it, but is still a great tool for our non-problem pooches, and is probably less easily manipulated when walking one.
My trainer recommends the easy walk harness. I used it for my dog. Works great to prevent pulling. https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Harness-Large-BLACK-SILVER/dp/B0009ZBKG4
I think OP is talking about the Easy Walk Harness.
It sounds to me like you're talking about a retractable leash. In that case, I totally agree with you. I just don't think that was what this post was about.
I had the same issue with my lab retriever. I tried using the Halti collar and harness and we couldn't walk more than 5 feet without Chester trying to pull it off his face. I know you said you tried harnesses and so did I and I found this one works best for us. As soon as I put it on he stopped pulling.
Try an easy lead! They're the kind where the leash attached in the front (but still a harness, not a collar). It makes walking stubborn shibes so much easier
PetSafe Easy Walk Harness, Large, BLACK/SILVER for Dogs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009ZBKG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_c3SBzb7TC7FWY
Sure! It's made by ruffwear and it has a locking carabiner on the end. Our girly learned how to unclip her normal leash with her mouth and would take off running. The metal bit twists up so that the latch can't open anymore, unless of course it's twisted back down.
Ruffwear - Knot-a-Leash, Reflective Dog Leash with Secure Locking Carabiner, Blue Spring, Large https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00R1UZLBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DNw7yb2CZ0HWP
The harness she's wearing is an easy walker, which her leash clips to in the front of her chest, so it keeps her from pulling on the leash too much.
PetSafe Easy Walk Harness, Large, BLACK/SILVER for Dogs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009ZBKG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nTw7yb261F6HY
Hope this helps!
I think I can help you with that. I have a big obstinate doggo too, and he's stronger than I am. He was a real pain in the butt on leash until only recently (he calmed down a bit when he turned two). I tried a bunch of leash/harness combinations and finally had success with the Rok strap and Easy Walk. What I like about the Rok leash is that it has two handles, one at the end and another right by where it clips to the dog.
This is useful for three reasons: (1) if doggo isn't cooperating, you can use the closer handle and have a lot more control over him. He will naturally need to stay right by your side, because he doesn't have room to roam. If he's behaving himself, you can let the leash out to give him more freedom. (2) He can't get enough momentum to hurt you. On a traditional leash, the dog will run and YANK on you when he reaches the end of the leash. If you're using the closer handle, he can't run as far. Less momentum = less force on you. (3) The leash is made with rubber, which means he will have to work a LOT harder to pull on the leash. More work = less reward.
Here's a photo of my dog on this harness + leash combo.
I hope that helps!
Looks like it might be the Easy Walk harness. It's designed to be clipped in front of the legs, so when they pull, it tightens around their front legs and turns them towards you.
Used to have the same harness for my Hound/Bully mix and it worked well for him. It had no effect on our female, who pulls like a damn truck (we switched to using the gentle leader for her).
Get an easy walk harness by premier. It will resolve that. My wife who barely tops 5' can walk ours with out problem.
I used to get so mad about friends and guests using their hands to play with my kitten. Luckily, when the people she saw most often stopped using their hands entirely, she learned to play with toys that were meant for her instead.
Try big soft toys stuffed with catnip, or this thing. Those are basically the greatest hits among my six cats. Some of my cats like toys that twirl in the air, while others like it when they're dragged along the ground, so try lots of different ways to play. Cardboard scratchers with catnip rubbed in are another much-beloved toy.
As for training the people around you? Remind them that claws won't be cute when your cat is big and strong, and put a toy into their hands. Kittens who are trained to attack people are the same cats who end up in shelters as adults, because their owners are too scared of them! I'm sure your cat will be fine since he has you to look out for him, but things like this do happen.
You are simply showing him some poop (yup, that's poop), and then forcing him into an enclosed space against his will. i.e., he will learn to dislike being picked up, and he will associate the litter box with an unpleasant experience.
Put the litter box where he's peeing now and get him used to using it every time. Then move it and him to an enclosed room for a day. Once he's using it regularly, he should remember this new location.
To clean up urine odor: http://about.pricegrabber.com/search_attrib.php/topcat_id=30/form_keyword=Natures%20Miracle
All in all - think like a cat. Don't try and apply human characteristics or logic to him, he's a cat. Make him want to do the things you want him to do through steady, regular and patient rewards.
Had someone ask for an inventory list and thought I'd post it up here for visibility.
Coralife Biocube 14 - $199
Lighting System - $141
Filtration System - $122
Arline System - $32
Decor - $140
Flora - $114
Fauna - $46
Tools - $12
I guess I'm a little late on this, but I use Eco-Complete in most of my planted tanks and I wouldn't use anything else.
If a fish is inactive, it usually means they don't have enough room to swim around and explore. 5 gallons is beautiful for a betta, you should do a 5 gallon with live plants, it's beautiful to look at! If you're concerned about price as well, here are some good options:
All in all, you're looking at ~$107 for a better tank for your fish, or ~$53 for just the basic set up (minus the live plants/plant supporting substrate). If you want lighting, I've heard that basic desk lamps like this one work great in lieu of expensive LED setups.
You can buy a Fluval Spec V, they're on sale for $59.99 and come with a filter, lighting, lid, etc. All you would need is substrate and a heater.
Let me know if you have any questions!
Most of what you list can be purchased second hand in Craigslist. For instance, I live in Houston and Craigslist has this available right now. That would drop almost the entire cost to $400.
I have a medium/heavily planted tank depending on who you ask. Here is a picture. This was done without any CO2. I use Eco-Complete as the substrate. I add one package of root tabs every 3 months. I spent a total of $109 for the mega-pack at liveaquaria.com.
If you were to purchase your tank and supplies second-hand, you could have a tank almost identical to mine for $500 or less.
My girl absolutely loves her treat ball. Keeps her busy for hours as she chases it. She loves to try and stick her big snoot in the hole to get the treats out (she never can get them out that way, but that doesn't stop her from trying lol). I'd say it's probably a really good toy for a dog not too interested in toys because you get the added bonus of treats and it keeps their mind busy. Here is the link to where I bought mine.
I got a feeder ball and it was cheap and has held up amazingly. My dog LOVES it and I'm ordering more.
Amazon link $10
Just a light cotton sheet or tablecloth will do for covering. If you can find it in a dark color, that would be great, but just not being able to see around her will help.
Sitting before you open the door is totally fine. Creating a routine is a great way to get her to love the crate, the more treats involved the better!
This is the treat ball I use which works great as long as your dog isn't much of a destroyer. Holds a fair amount of food. If you're not sure about the food bowl just putting in a large object or smaller upside down bowl inside the food dish can help in the meanwhile.
Outside as a family is great, I was just thinking of those time when you're worried about her peeing but would like to give her some time outside her crate unsupervised. I'm not too familiar with heat+breathing issues so you might consult your vet just to see what they recommend based on your climate and your pup.
I'm glad I could help! I just totally know how it is to feel frustrated with your dog. I'm glad she's peeing indoors less! May also just be her getting used to her new home :)
Best of luck!
Edit! Oh I forgot about the ear cleaning. Cheese whiz! Or similar consistency stuff, peanut butter works too but isn't as convenient. Smear a long thin line of it on the floor (or other easily wipeable surface). Like, a foot of it. You can even space it out a bit. While she's busy licking, you can mess with her ears. Picked this trick up from my vet and it works awesomely.
My dog (also big, about 110lbs) also sometimes eats REALLY fast... I know about bloat (I used to have greyhounds and according to my vet at the time the breed is particularly susceptible to it) so I'm pretty careful about feeding him. No exercise immediately before or after feeding. I very unthinkingly took my dog for a run once immediately after feeding him a big raw meal, and the poor guy threw up everything he'd eaten halfway through the run and was just miserable all the way home. (He'd also managed to drink some pretty foul ditchwater before I dragged him away, and something in the raw meal might've disagreed with him... I'm back to high-quality kibble because raw feeding was just way too involved for me.) That put the fear of the baby Jesus into me and I've been REALLY careful about his feeding ever since.
One thing I like to do when my dog is REALLY excited about dinner and I can tell he's about to wolf it down is put his food in a treat ball. I'm not really a fan of the traditional buster cube but I got one of these Omega balls and it's worked out great. Might not so much if your dog is a chewer; mine isn't, so he hasn't destroyed any of these, but just in case I do make sure he only has the ball when I'm there to supervise him. The last thing I need is surgery to remove pieces of a treat ball from his gut. :D But my dog LOVES that thing. It ensures that he only gets his kibble a few pieces at a time, and he has a grand old time pushing the thing around with his nose, then spends hours back-tracking and sniffing all over the room to make sure he didn't miss any bits of kibble. It's totally awesome.
I have this treat ball as well as a similar one that is weighted at the bottom. They're good because my dog has to interact with them to get the treats, and it's completely random, so she can't figure out the puzzle and do it the same way every time. I have a Kong and similar toys that can be filled with food as well. I like to freeze peanut butter or pumpkin in them so they take a little more work. I'll usually rotate out the toys through the week so they don't get bored.
My dog has good luck with this treat ball:
However, when she used this one, she got similarly frustrated, and would even angrily pounce at it.
The second ball had these little rubber pegs that stopped the treats from easily falling out, so I cut one of the pegs off, and now her kibble falls out more easily. She likes it more and doesn't get mad at it. =)
I showed my dog how they fell out, pointing to the hole and then holding it upside down. I did that enough that now I see Luna trying to hold hers different angles with her head so the hole points down. She's a smart pup!
We used this:
Really helps slow her down... Although now every orange ball she nudges with her nose hoping kibble will fall out.
You guys look super nice today ;)
I would like this cat water fountain as gift one because my new kitten should be just about ready to move in about a week or maybe less!
For gift two, this strange plunger-looking washing device should come in handy in my new apartment as it doesn't have a washer/dryer. C'mon...gimme.
Thanks for the contest guys!
The cat might appreciate a water fountain; it's a lot more appealing to many cats than drinking out of a bowl. Considering how many cats get kidney failure, anything that will help them drink more water is a good thing!
I don't know a single cat who doesn't prefer to drink moving water.
FYI, you can get something that keeps it naturally moving and thus not so contaminated
I prefer the halter style collars for dogs that like to pull. It goes around their neck and nose and makes it very easy to control their heads.
The only downside is that to some people they look like muzzles and that can scare some people at the park.
I think I have a Gentle Leader at home. Initially my dog hated it and tried to paw it off. Eventually she associated it with going for walks and now she gets very excited when I pull it out. Also note that a halter will still allow your dog to eat/drink/bark/etc while they are wearing it.
Tons of trainers I speak to recommend the harness. It's a great product! My dog has a barking problem along with a pulling problem (although she isn't nearly as rambunctious as your pup on the leash!) so I got the Premier Gentle Leader (http://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Gentle-Leader-Headcollar-Large/dp/B00074L4W2). Like a harness, it doesn't hurt my dog and what it does is it closes my dog's mouth when I give a gentle tug and the metal ring is located on the side, so it pulls my dog's head towards me, stopping her from pulling with no force necessary. Figured I'd share for those whose dogs don't receive harnesses well and may also have barking problems!
Ours is a Gentle Leader Head Collar/Halter.
Thanks for the kind words! Super happy with the results so far, turned an absolute wiggleworm of a puppy into a beast that is much, much, more manageable.
Has no one ever heard of a head collar? Best $20 you can spend if you have medium to large dog that pulls on a leash.
On sale for $10 on Amazon right now.
My dog doesn't love his harness (but isn't as scared as your guy) and our trainer suggested we teach him the "Get dressed" command. I see you are essentially doing this, but maybe upgrade what kind of treats you are using? Also try to work on this when you don't have to leave the house, like in the middle of the day. This will mean you can practice when you're less rushed. I just searched for it and this looks like an OK video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aOsv5xE0KUM
Have you thought about using a Gentle Leader instead? You'll have to be very careful about how you expose your dog to it, but maybe the lack of pressure on his sides will help. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00074L4W2
I haven't used that sort of collar previously. I will say I tried a Gentle Leader with my 90lb pit/rottie mix and it was amazing. She pulled pretty bad, and I was having a lot of difficulty training her. With the Gentle Leader it was like night and day. As soon as it went on, she stopped pulling. It is definitely worth the $15.
Here's my dog: http://imgur.com/a/6AowK
Here's the Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Gentle-Leader-Collar-Training/dp/B00074L4W2/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501972494&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=gentle+leader
like this? - https://www.amazon.com/XY-2831-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium-10-gallon/dp/B0056XVF82
do you think i'll have any luck finding something like that in the retail pet stores or should i just get it off of amazon?
I would suggest a couple of things. I'm a cheapskate at heart, so take what I say with a grain of salt. A 10G tank is a perfect starting volume, but I think you can do it with way less up front cost.
First, I'd hold off on the CO2 kit until your tank gets established and you determine that CO2 is needed. For a 10G tank, you may find that a DIY kit is fine. I personally got a CO2 setup, but only because I found this one on clearance for $5 (http://www.amazon.com/Nutrafin-Natural-System-Activator-Stabilizer/dp/B00026058Y). It's essentially a commercial version of the standard DIY kit, and it bubbles for 2-3 months per charge.
Second, you may want to stay away from the HOB filter. I've got about a half-dozen of them around the house, but I have found that I really like the sponge filters way better, especially if you want to keep your cherry shrimp babies from getting sucked up. They do an excellent job with biological filtration, and if you just squeeze/rinse one of them out each time you do a water change, it will do a decent job at mechanical filtration as well. Can't beat the price either. http://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Biochemical-Sponge-Filter-Fish/dp/B0056XVF82
I think your fish selection is great, but just wanted to note to you that Glowlight tetras are "moderately difficult to breed", so if you'd like a nice sustainable colony it may be worth checking out some of the livebearers. Nothing like buying 5 fish and then having 30 in a few months... I'm currently raising Endler's guppies. The males really make the tank pop, and they stay small so having 20-30 in the tank isn't too much bioload.
For plants, I think you've got the right idea with starting with some HC and then add more later. I'd also search around a bit and see if there is a local aquarium group. Trading is way better than buying... after going to my local Aquatic Plant Club monthly meeting I always walk away with 5-7 plants that I didn't have before. Your job will then be to grow like crazy to bring more back to the group for the ever-present "new guy" to get started.
For 3D supports, you may want to check out using "egg-crate", or lighting diffuser. It's dirt cheap from Home Depot and will hopefully keep the water/sediment from stagnating underneath your mountains.
Hope this helps, I'd try to spend as little as possible until you identify areas that need improvement.
Can't say for certain if that will be good. It might create too much current. I've had good luck with https://www.amazon.com/XY-2831-Sponge-Filter-Aquarium-10-gallon/dp/B0056XVF82
If you go filterless try using a wood diffuser, they put out finer bubbles than the regular kind, which should cut down on the flow. Also go for the smallest air pump you can find, this will probably make the biggest difference.
I have this bubble filter, and if you put the spout above the water the bubbles pretty much pop on impact with the water.
I don't think it's the size of the bubbles that really matters, I would be more worried about making a choke point, if the bubbles start to build up, you're not going to be moving any water. But i've never tried putting something on the outflow of mine.
You could get something like this, or even something half that size, and then a super cheap air pump. Sponge filters are air driven. But yeah, for ten or fifteen bucks you could easily have a good sponge filter set up. They are great for shrimp and most serious shrimp breeders use them.
Good on you for taking the poor guy!
First, the spots don't really look like ich. Ich is more like the fish has salt grains sprinkled on them. The spots on the this guy look like either fungus or bacteria. Also, from the picture, it looks like he has some pretty bad fin rot and he's very pale.
I see an air pump, is it hooked up to anything in the tank? I don't see a filter, but you can use that air pump to set up a sponge filter.
The tank itself looks to be ok, although a very odd shape... I'm thinking it's probably 2.5-3 gallons which is alright for a betta (though 5 gallons is ideal)
Honestly, if there's no filter or bubble stone, I'd do a 100% water change, rinse the gravel really well to get any detritus out (judging by the state of the tank, I'm sure there's a lot...). Until you get a filter, you should do 50-75% changes every day. Look up fish-in cycling as well. I'm sure we have a link in our wiki. Scoop the little guy into a holding cup while you change the water, then slowly acclimate to the cleaner water. With his compromised immune system, too much stress may be a death sentence.
Like I said about the spots, it looks like a fungus or bacterial infection. Bacterial is more common and would fit with the MO of fin rot, so I'd start with that for treating. Any antibacterial would be good, but get him in clean water first.
Can you take a pic of the heater?
As far as buddies go, a single snail or a few shrimp would be fine with him. Nerite snails are one of my favorites. They eat all kinds of algae, lay eggs that don't hatch in freshwater, come in lots of colors, and stay relatively small. DO NOT do a mystery snail, they get huge and produce a lot of waste. Ghost or amano shrimp are good choices. Shrimp are much more sensitive to water quality though, so make sure you get the tank fixed before adding anything.
Finally, definitely get this test kit. You'll need it for cycling and is much more accurate and cost effective than strips.
UNS now has lids
These TopFin 5 gallon kits include a lid.
Petco's Imagitarium rimless kits have lids.
Marineland Contour and Portrait kits come with lids.
5G Mainland Portrait... I really like it! And so does Bunty... https://www.amazon.com/Marineland-ML90609-Portrait-Aquarium-5-Gallon/dp/B00O8SZTKQ/ref=sr_1_7?s=pet-supplies&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1499707516&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=marineland
Marineland ML90609 Portrait Aquarium Kit, 5-Gallon w/ Hidden Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O8SZTKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Ej7vCbQKYF9MF
My boyfriend and I have two of these, and they seem like the perfect tank for betta fish.
Marineland ML90609 Portrait Aquarium Kit, 5-Gallon w/ Hidden Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O8SZTKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_833DCbZGDSNEM says it’s 5 gallons but i think it’s closer to 3. comes with a light and filter, it’s really nice
Some people keep shrimp in small couple gallon bowls with success, judging by stuff I see on jarrarriums? The smaller the tank though the faster the water can go toxic. This portrait 5 gallon has been on sale for a while, it's what I'm using to make a shrimp tank. I haven't had success yet but that's another story... Cycling is hard x_x
As for plants, I've heard they love plants like Java moss, hornwort, and elodea, because the amount of surface area encourages the growth of biofilm and other things they eat especially as babies.
There are some commercial pellets out there, they can also eat some veggies. I hear that rotating different foods is best for them.
For water parameters, you just need to make sure there's enough calcium/minerals for them to molt properly.
This is all hearsay since I haven't had success yet but good luck!