(Part 2) Best fashion craft books according to redditors

Helpful article, especially for suit jackets and dress shoes. However they didn't talk too too much about cotton dress shirts. The tip about stitches per inch on the side-seams is good, but there's a lot more you can look for too (these are my notes from David Coffin's Shirtmaking "bible"):

• the best cottons are Pima (good), Egyptian (better), and Sea Island (best). they all have individual fibers (called staples) that are much longer compared to other cottons, which allows them to be spun into finer, smoother yarns.
  
• fold the fabric over itself, and hold it up to the light. the less fuzziness you can see at the edge of the fold, the better. it indicates smoother and longer-stapled yarns.
  
• fine shirting cotton often has a subtle gloss, or sheen, which rivals silk. not all high-end fabrics have it, but if present, it's usually an indicator of quality.
  
• the best cotton shirting fabrics are imported from Switzerland, England, Italy, and Japan. this is because most mills in other countries were not designed to work with ultra-fine threads (note: the book's copyright is 1993, so it's possible this is outdated info)
  
  Elements of the "classic" dress shirt:
  
  
• 100% cotton, 2- or 3-ply thread (for example, a "2x2 120" fabric means the warp and weft are both 2-ply 120-size threads, where thread sizes range from about 20 (coarse) to 200 (ultra-fine))
  
• a one-piece back with a narrow one- or two-piece double yoke (about 2.5" to 3" wide at the shoulders). often there will be knife pleats over the shoulder blades, or especially common on American shirts, a centered box pleat in the small of the back.
  
• a 1.5" wide front-facing, a separate piece of fabric from the shirt-front, top-stitched at 1/4" along each side. edge-stitching or no stitching on this instead of at 1/4" is a big tell of cheapness. (this is the piece with the button holes)
  
• a rolled-hem along the bottom
  
• flat-felled armscye and side seams
  
• one-piece sleeves, with plackets and barrel cuffs or french cuffs (the placket and cuffs are a good place to look for indicators of shady quality; they're tough to sew). barrel cuffs with square or 45 degree corners are often an indicator of lesser-quality (because tight rounded curves are really difficult to sew evenly - but sometimes unrounded is just the style the designer chose).
  
• a collar on a separate stand (also a good place to look for indicators of shady quality; the collar is probably the hardest part of a shirt to sew)
  
  Good shirts can deviate from these rules, but those are the key elements that go into what makes up a "classic" dress shirt.
  

Check out your local community college for makerspaces, sewing classes, and other similar things. Some cafes, especially anticafes, will have sewing classes to help people learn how to tailor or repair their clothing. Check your community for similar things!

There's also a few books you can buy/borrow:

How Patterns Work is a pattern drafting book, not tailoring, but it has a lot of good information on how clothing fits together and how to modify patterns to fit well that can be adapted to clothing.

The Sewing Bible might also have what you are looking for. I don't own that book, although I have had it recommended to me several times for alteration how-to.

Practice on some low-cost clothes. You can even spend five or ten dollars at Goodwill, grab a bunch of clothes to practice on, and not worry about ruining clothing you're more attached to. The basics of tailoring-darts, taking in seams, etc--are pretty easy to pick up.

Edit: also check for a local quilter's group! They usually let people bring in non-quilt items, and the sewing knowledge in a group of quilters is simply astounding.

Good luck!

I could write a fat page, but I am lazy.

this dude is fucking awesome

and I am still waiting for pt. 2 mofucka

I enjoyed the hell out of these posts. Made me feel good about what I was doing. Patternmaking is great and frustrating and challenging and rewarding as heck.

I started back in the day with a shitty free sewing machine, sewing by hand, and some shitty Fiskars. I have now invested in nicer equipment. Began by altering my own clothes, chopping them up and making new crappy pieces. Then I found some shirts and trousers that I liked at garage sales/thrift stores/flea markets and reverse engineered with cheap fabric from the same g.sales/thrift/flea markets. Rebuilt a cashmere topcoat, peacoat, tweed blazer and did my best to make patterns out of butcher paper and roll-ends from the newspaper factory in town. At the start, nothing ever fit me that looked good; everything that fit looked like crap. (probably a self esteem issue) I buy lots of patterns from thrift stores for mega cheap also.

I built my own dress form out of a thick hanger and a tshirt to destroy, wrapping myself with wet packing tape. Pass out from overheating and have your mom freak out, cut you out of it. Then patch it up with more tape until you have a mass that somewhat resembles an upper torso of yours.

Fixed that to a coat rack and started working on building from my patterns, tweaking it after being able to see it hung up. It's difficult to work only on the table, pinning parts to my shirt to try and get a feel for it in the mirror. Found some dress forms at an auction for cheap, so I snagged the fuckers up and oh lordy what a change from the welfare handmade version.

A great resource for me was youtube, cutter and tailor forum and the book by Dave Coffin

How I live my life is I will go forward with an idea and just go for it, rather than researching before. I'll usually result in a bloodbath mongoloid of something, then see how others do it and reattempt, which yields different results. This is probably why I haven't had a solid relationship with a girl.

I am sick as hell right now, so this might not be very good, but it's something.

For young people, certain things just look like you’re trying too damn hard: bowties, pocket squares, French cuffs, white collars on a colored shirt, suspenders, wide-spread collars, vested suit (sometimes), etc.

It’s easy to blame other people, but your clothes are prompting their reaction. I don’t know you and I don’t know the way you dress. But perhaps you should think about trying to be more subtle: buying nice clothes that aren’t at all ostentatious. Don’t wear bowties if, when you wear one, people make comments.

In my opinion, the majority of advice on MFA will make a high school or college students look good for other high school or college students. If I wore my pants below my natural waste or if I wore wingtips or a bow tie, the men at my work would think I was an immature, insecure, hipster douche bag. There is nothing wrong with those things, but dress to your audience. Being stylish, being able to express your own, personal style, within the bounds of what’s acceptable to your peers is a true and worthy challenge. An artist is limited by the artistic media he chooses to work with. So to, you are limited by your lifestyle, income, peer group, profession, region, etc. Strive to be stylish and express yourself within you lifestyle’s bounds. Then you will look good without looking like you’re wearing a costume to try to look good.

If following the advice on this forum is getting criticism, I’d like to suggest some alternative sources for advice:

http://www.amazon.com/Dressing-Man-Mastering-Permanent-Fashion/dp/0060191449/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1344004043&sr=8-1&keywords=allan+flusser

http://www.amazon.com/Clothes-Man-Principles-Fine-Dress/dp/0394546237/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1344004043&sr=8-2&keywords=allan+flusser

http://www.amazon.com/GENTLEMAN-TIMELESS-GUIDE-FASHION-Ullmann/dp/3833152702/ref=pd_bxgy_b_img_b

http://www.amazon.com/The-Suit-Machiavellian-Approach-Style/dp/0060891866/ref=pd_sim_b_7 (especially the chapter for “young” persons)

http://www.amazon.com/Elegance-Menswear-G-Bruce-Boyer/dp/0393304388/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1344004086&sr=1-1&keywords=bruce+boyer

http://www.amazon.com/Eminently-Suitable-G-Bruce-Boyer/dp/0393028771/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1344004086&sr=1-3&keywords=bruce+boyer

Your library should have these, as they are menswear “classics.” The books are well-written and, though older than something like “Esquire The Handbook of Style,” the advice is better. How to dress well is a timeless art.

Knitter's Handy Book of Top-Down Sweaters! Love that book.

Well, you could always sign up for sewing classes in your area. But I can offer you some advice from my own experience:

Whatever you do, have patience. Enjoy the process. Sewing is not hard, and can seem tedious when you just want to see the final product. I can't tell you how many projects I rushed only to find out I'd done something irreparable and had to start over.

Save your scraps! Scraps are useful. Measure twice, cut once. Or if you're really confident in you're measuring, measure once. But I always measure a few times, just to make sure. Don't skimp on the supplies. Sewing does tend to have a lot of supplies, but they all have a purpose.

If you're interested in making your own clothes, there are tons of great communities for DIY fashion. You could even just googe "diy fashion", I found a lot of inspiration when I was just starting out (making clothes, I mean. I've been sewing since I was a little kid) by looking at things other people made.

Study your clothes! Clothing construction is fairly simple and very redundant, but just looking at how professional seams look and come together can be helpful. There are also lots of books full of easy projects for you to look into. My favorites are Generation T and Beyond Fashion. All of the projects are constructed out of tee shirts and really simple.

I think that's all I got. Hope some of this was helpful!

This is the one I have, I guess its ~designer~ one skein wonders. But I make that hat on the cover all the time, minus the I-cord bit. Easy as pie and quick too.

This is gorgeous!

I grabbed links a couple of books you might be interested in, if you haven't found them already.

adapting/altering sewing patterns and couture finishing techniques

I found them when I decided to challenge my sewing skills. I really enjoy them both.

I own the following books and classes (maybe more):

Vintage Couture Tailoring

Singer Tailoring

Alison Smith Essential Guide to Tailoring

Pam Howard Modern Jacket Techniques

Suzy Furrer Drafting the Tailored Jacket or Coat

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That said, haven't sewn a jacket...yet! But I think I'm ready, LOL!

Not a video, but I learned it from this book on toe-up two at a time.

Say you start with Amazon's #1 seller the Brother CS-6000i - comes with the basic feet and features and even a seam ripper.

I'd recommend Guttermen Sew-All for thread - black and white/neutral should cover most basic projects.

This is my favorite thread cutter - http://www.amazon.com/Clover-Kuroha-Inch-Thread-Clipper/dp/B0019KFR5I/ref=sr_1_3?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1453931142&sr=1-3&keywords=clover+thread+cutter

You might want a pin set

These are the best fabric shears (don't use them on anything but fabric!) - http://www.amazon.com/Gingher-8-Inch-Knife-Dressmakers-Shears/dp/B000UU6SR4/ref=sr_1_1?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1453931252&sr=1-1&keywords=fabric+shears


Edit: For books, I really don't know. We started sewing without books but for more advance techniques and patterns we picked up a bunch. Here are few we have (note - these are all japanese authored books so the patterns can be a bit small or meant for less curvy people:

http://www.amazon.com/Draping-Complete-Course-Karolyn-Kiisel/dp/1780670931/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453931653&sr=8-1&keywords=draping+the+complete+course

http://www.amazon.com/Drape-Hisako-Sato/dp/1856698416/ref=pd_sim_14_8?ie=UTF8&dpID=41uA6owXofL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR120%2C160_&refRID=0D1XNBB3SPYRR8JA23DZ

http://www.amazon.com/Shape-Sewing-Clothing-Patterns-Multiple/dp/1596683554/ref=pd_sim_14_8?ie=UTF8&dpID=416R%2BlL1cpL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR124%2C160_&refRID=0QVYFTFXGCFFN2PXEQJJ

http://www.amazon.com/Interweave-Press-Simple-Modern-Sewing/dp/159668352X/ref=pd_sim_14_8?ie=UTF8&dpID=411UEqxuuRL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR120%2C160_&refRID=15HXCGBQFSSDWWB3YNA2

​

Couture Sewing by Claire Shaeffer. She also has more specialized books on the parts of Chanel-style suit, such as The Couture Cardigan Jacket and The Couture Skirt. Here's her Amazon page.

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Thomas Von Nordheim's Vintage Couture Tailoring is excellent. He did the structured costumes for The Phantom Thread.

I've only looked through it, but Zoya Nudelman's The Art of Couture Sewing had beautiful photos.

Roberta Carr's Couture: The Art of Fine Sewing has hideous examples but good information.

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For pattern making, Helen Joseph Armstrong's book is very popular. Books by Ernestine Kopp and Natalie Bray are others.

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Any books on this topic?
Would love to have something like this.

Most of the information you'll find about historical fashions online are meant to help to recreate the garments. The most popular periods to recreate tend to be those that are tied to re-enactment groups. For the 1650s, you won't find much; however, just a decade earlier was the English Civil War for which there are a lot of re-enactment groups like this one. Since it's only a decade off, members of the group may have some stuff online that may help you. Here is a good blog to get you started.

In the meantime; here are some books that will help:

17th C Women's Dress Patterns: part 1

17th C Women's Dress Patterns: part 2

17th & 18th C Fashion in Detail

Glasgow Museums 17th C Costume

Just to get started. I personally own pretty much all of these. You notice a fashion shift in the 17th C starting around the mid 1620s and continuing well until 1680s. That isn't to say you could wear the same style garment throughout that time period - just that what is worn from that point couldn't be mistaken for the century before or after. Similar to in the 20th C, no one would blink about a just below the knee skirt from the 1920s on.

Also, the Knitter's Handy Book of Top-Down Sweaters. Great resource. Has info on how to do different types of sleeves like Raglan, Set-in, Saddle, Yoke, and drop shoulders.

This woman has a half dozen books on making things with just one skein of yarn. I don't know what your local library is like but mine has almost all of them, spread across the branches.

I personally don't think you are too old.

I used to sew for fun when I was 16, stopped after leaving school and began again at the age of 23/24. I have been steadily re-learning all of the techniques I was taught at school, and have been attending college courses on sewing and dressmaking too. I am now at the stage where I am working on my own project portfolio, but will happily admit that I am still learning lots of new things.

I will agree with /u/heliotropedit though. you do have to be completely 100% dedicated to learning everything you can.

You will end up spending hours and hours practicing the same techniques over and over again. You will want to quit at times and need to motivate yourself to carry on and push through to the end. You'll want to cry on occasions at how tired you are and how you feel that your work simply isn't good enough and how it never will be. You will see other people wearing beautifully crafted garments and feel angry at your own lack of skills. but when you finally break through and create a perfectly drafted and constructed garment, you will realise all of that time, pain, upset and sheer panic will have been 100% worth it.

But before you ever reach this point, you need to be completely certain that it is what you want to do, the tailoring profession is very difficult to break into and it takes true dedication and sacrifice and time (years) to make it.

NB a few good books to help:- (the first three books are good for beginners, the last 4 books are aimed at the more intermediate level sewers)

Easy Does It Dressmaking

The Sewing Book

The Dressmakers Handbook

Couture Sewing Techniques as recommended to me by /u/heliotropedit.

Couture Sewing: Tailoring Techniques

Classic Tailoring Techniques: Menswear

Classic Tailoring Techniques: Womenswear

You're welcome. You might also enjoy Claire Shaeffer's The Couture Cardigan Jacket (along with the rest of her couture sewing series -- it's amazing). She also drafted a pattern for that jacket; all of her patterns for Vogue have amazingly detailed instructions for getting a beautiful fit and finish.

I have the same problem. This is my new bible: http://www.amazon.com/Toe-Up-2-at-Time-Melissa-Morgan-Oakes/dp/1603425330

I can't do socks 1-at-a-time any more, even if I'm loom knitting. I buy two looms and knit them both matching row by row. Otherwise I would be surrounded by single, pair-less socks.

I think there’s something like that in The Tunic Bible: https://www.amazon.com/Tunic-Bible-Interchangeable-Ready-Wear/dp/1617453560/ref=asc_df_1617453560/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312132076760&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14536314096349558770&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9061285&hvtargid=pla-479198296964&psc=1.
(Sorry for the long link—I’m on a phone.)

You don't need a dressform for alterations. I suggest Judith Turner's book on Alterations. book Just because you can look up everything in one place. There are also all kinds of tutorials online, some better then others.

I posted this in a separate comment, but this book has some great info for drafting skirt patterns.

Yeah, I don't like manufactured patterns. I use this book: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1580176259/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1467001592&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=how+to+make+skirts


Technically you could find all the info online but I find the book a lot more portable, plus I can scribble notes and measurements in it.

Check Craftster.com Such a GREAT website! I frequently just go to look at stuff people have made, and always find new and motivating things there. The people there are really nice!

A good sewing machine is always appreciated, and a serger is expensive and has a steep learning curve, but is a really great tool for anyone who sews a LOT.

Check with local sewing machine repair shops. They usually have good older machines for fairly little. Also check yard sales and Craigslist, etc. A lot of machines are sold with VERY low mileage, I got a NICE Singer 99K for about $75. It only goes forward and backward, but it sews through multiple layers of heavy fabrics without a stutter, which is useful for my needs. I also have a newer Singer that does zigzag stitch. Most people who do "standard" sewing or very little don't usually need the fancy expensive machines with programs and embroidery.

Sewing machines are pretty easy to use, once you know how to run the thread on and load and insert the bobbin. Then you set the stitch size and make sure the tension is ok, and then press the accelerator! I started using a machine when I was 12, it's fairly easy! I rarely change the settings for what I do on my machine, mostly hemming pants...

Gift cards to fabric stores, or maybe a class in pattern reading and drafting, tailoring, basic clothes making are great ways to help her. I know Joanne's (a major chain store for crafts and sewing) give lessons for ALL levels of sewing.

Wearing what she makes you and being willing to stand while she pins you up are both GREAT ways to show appreciation and support for ANY seamstress, as well as being truthful and supportive of clothes she makes for herself!

Some good books are http://www.amazon.com/Generation-Beyond-Fashion-Transform-T-shirt/dp/0761154108/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1260261792&sr=8-1

http://www.amazon.com/Sew-Subversive-Dirty-Fabulous-Fashionista/dp/1561588091/ref=pd_sim_b_6

http://www.amazon.com/Rip-Deconstruct-Reconstruct-Clothes-Dreams/dp/B00150GHRY/ref=pd_sim_b_7

http://www.amazon.com/Design-Yourself-Clothes-Patternmaking-Simplified/dp/0307451399/ref=pd_sim_b_14

Books in a similar vein are of course listed on those pages, you might find more titles that appeal to her. AlterNation books are good, as well as a basic sewing book like these.

An adjustable sewing dummy is VERY helpful. I found one for plus sizes (14 and up) as well as ones for "regular sized" gals.

If she lives with you, or has/wants a craft room, making her a storage area or buying shelves or cabinets for the supplies she'll need is a gift that will pay off for a LONG time!

Once she's up and running, you might offer her a trip to the closest garment district to where you live. New York and Los Angeles both have great garment districts, where fabric and supplies can be purchased for cheap cheap!

This one is good. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1565235118/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1468690432&sr=8-14&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

I also found this useful: http://www.thesewingguru.com

This book has done wonders for me. (http://www.amazon.com/How-Adapt-Design-Sewing-Patterns/dp/0764144251) and this company is curvy girl friendly (http://www.colettepatterns.com)

That's the only one that ever jumps to mind when I'm looking for a neatly packaged example of why books are good -- you can school yourself on stuff like names for different kinds of collars for better keyword use. Just put something like this next to your toilet, force yourself to look at it regularly. ("Ask Andy About Clothes" is a good on-line resource. /r/malefashionadvice is a useful thing to browse to find out what's in current demand.)

This is an incredibly broad question since fashion is changing notable every decade during that time period. If you are looking for a general costume history overview of the pre-modern era I'd start by looking for some books in your local library. They're generally vague and sometimes use outdated ideas, but it's always a good base to start with. Sometimes even Barnes & Noble carries "Fashion", a book covering some of the Kyoto Costume Institutes collection from 18th-20th c. From there, researching original garments on museum collection websites or portraiture and fashion plates can give you a more detailed idea of the styles once you know the garment names and basic shapes. The Met Museum and the V&A have two of the largest online collections. Pinterest is also very helpful for this kind of search, though things are not always well documented and modern reproductions slip in occasionally. There are also many in-depth books on these eras, though none that covers the whole of it in great detail.

The Tudor Tailor, Seventeenth-century Women's Dress Patterns Book One and Book Two, and What Clothes Reveal are some of my often referenced books. There are many more depending on whether you are more interested in the clothing construction side, the high fashion, textiles, or trade and everyday wear.

This book is what I use. You can even see on the last page of the preview of the book part of a chart. I've found it helpful for various sizes and I'm able to adjust for length if necessary.

You could do some sort of sock knitting kit? You can buy sock weight yarn at JoAnn Fabrics or even at a Local Yarn Store if you have one nearby. I'd do at least two balls of the yarn from Joann's, if that's the route you want to go. You could also include an easy beginner sock pattern like this one. She'll also need small double pointed needles, a US 1 or US 2. Like these. You could also get her this book! I just recently got the book, and it has a ton of tips and tricks that will help anyone interested in knitting socks! If you have any other questions, let me know and I'll try to answer them!

I'm on the same quest. I've started doing some research on how a full canvased jacket is assembled. This guy has a 20+ part video on how he puts together a suit. It's not comprehensive but a good companion if you need to visually see the steps.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y6tlEoqDKT0&list=PL6wdXAvg4DOEngOR93SkkVK8Tb0AvmwJv

I have heard Roberto Cabrera's book is excellent but haven't spent the $80+ dollars to acquire it. I did buy this book:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0865732418

Singer's guide to tailoring, you can buy it used for like $8 with shipping. It shows you the three major types of tailoring of a suit, interfaced, machine, and hand worked. I think it's a good start, there's quite a lot of photos and step by step instructions. How to shape collars, how to do different types of inset pockets.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/0963947419/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_OldGybBK2KFE9

When we bought our press, my dad bought me this book. I read it front to back. Then just started messing around. Might be a good gift idea? I still refer to it every now and then.

Here's a good thread that takes the shotgun approach. This book is recommended quite a bit, and here's another I've personally enjoyed.
Not sure how super it is to post from one's own website, but we put out a fairly comprehensive tutorial a couple of weeks ago, linked here. It's not down to the last detail, but it does stretch across most of the process. Youtube is probably another great resource, but I'd say just dive in and get dirty. You'll have more specific questions that way. Hope this helps!

Not drafting, but tailoring techniques: https://www.amazon.com/Couture-Sewing-Techniques-Claire-Shaeffer/dp/1600855040

There are professional ways and means to copy garments. Claire Sheaffer's book "High Fashion Sewing Secrets From the World's Best Designers" has a chapter on how this is done. It's an oldie (and a goodie!) and should be available on Amazon. Yes , it is! https://www.amazon.ca/Fashion-Sewing-Secrets-Worlds-Designers/dp/1579544150/ref=pd_sbs_14_10?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=1579544150&pd_rd_r=35a7ff71-7152-11e9-88ae-891106fe0638&pd_rd_w=5ZWsG&pd_rd_wg=DvgdJ&pf_rd_p=5dcda75b-8643-4da3-9bb1-5c0233790500&pf_rd_r=3XCBGDYGENZN5DBSWS7G&psc=1&refRID=3XCBGDYGENZN5DBSWS7G

If you are trying to be frugal about it, sewing your clothes isn't the way to go. It may be good to learn a lot of mending techniques and how to alter clothing.

Answering the actual question:

I second Craftster.org, but also Burdastyle has a ton of free patterns that you can cut out. The two books I refer to most for information are teh vogue guide to sewing (which as an almost encyclopedic how to on every basic thing you would need to know) and the High fashion sewing, which helps you refine your skills by teaching how to correctly do different seams (also explains when and why you would use them.)

Vogue book:http://www.amazon.com/Sewing-Revised-Updated-Knitting-Magazine/dp/1933027002/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1269758900&sr=8-1

High fashion:http://www.amazon.com/Fashion-Sewing-Secrets-Worlds-Designers/dp/1579544150/ref=pd_sim_b_28

You can definitely get teh vogue one at teh library.

Another thing I would highly recommend is to purchase a serger. It cuts down on time and finishes all of your seams to keep things from raveling. It can cost a decent chunk up front, but if you are planning to make clothes, I've found that it keeps them neat on the inside and makes them last longer to fave nicely finished seams.

You should get this book knits men want. My boyfriend actually bought it for me. So far I'm in the process of making him a cardigan and I just finished one of three scarves I'm working on for him yesterday.