(Part 3) Best faucet parts according to redditors

What do you want to know?

I will give you 3 pointers if you buy this particular unit, though. I only bought this because it's the cheapest 4 stage you can get, and I know I don't need all the bells and whistles (in-line TDS, etc -except one that I will mention in part 2 below) that come with the ones that cost way more.

1. If you want to make serious quantities of water, and you don't have the patience of a saint, get THIS MEMBRANE and just keep the included 50gpd membrane as a spare. The dow filmtec membranes are the best you can get. They're the only ones that really produce anywhere close to their stated GPD rating. The 75GPD membrane is great too. Honestly it's just a more convenient, and longer lasting membrane either way. I've gone through a shitload of RO membranes. Whenever I need a replacement, the filmtec 75 is what I buy.
   
   
2. If you're installing it on a bathroom sink that has easily accessible male threading (after you remove the aerator), then get one of THESE. It's much easier to just divert the faucet water to your 1/4" tubing than having to detach and reattach the included plastic faucet adapter every time you want to make water. If you want to cut the faucet out of the picture altogether (my preferred method) then install a SADDLE VALVE straight to your 1/2" copper pipe (cold water pipe ONLY - never connect an RO/DI to hot water) and a SHUTOFF VALVE in-line between the pipe and your RO/DI's supply port. That's what I did today. Tapped into the copper pipe behind my bathroom sink; drilled a hole in the wall just above the sink and ran the tubing into the bathroom; installed shutoff valve there; drilled holes in undersink cabinet to accommodate supply, waste, and clean tubes; mounted the filter unit inside the undersink cabinet. Now I have a convenient on/off switch just above my bathroom sink. The tubing for waste and clean are coiled up between the cabinet and my tub. When I want to make water I just snake the waste line down my bathtub drain, pop my water sprayer in the tub and fill her up. No worries of spills/overflow. No hassle of connecting/disconnecting plastic fittings that are prone to thread strip.
   
   
3. Doesn't hurt to install a BACKFLUSH. This is the one 'bell and whistle' that I think is actually really useful. Especially if you have really hard water, It's good to flush heavy solids out of your membrane occasionally.

I know this is going to sound crazy, but you need a whole house water filter. The small shower filters don't have enough contact time with the water to do anything.

First thing is to find out if your city uses chlorine or chloramines.

Then, if you have the space in your shower get this beast:

Housing

Filter: Chloramine / Chlorine

Not enough space and want to mount on the wall:

Housing

Filter: Chloramine / Chlorine

--

Shower hose

Wand

Fittings: Reducers x2 / 1/2" Nipple

It will look a little hood rat and ridiculous but it actually works.

It also seems expensive, but these filters will last a longgg time.

Edit: it will look something like this

While REALLY not made for this, I would put one of these on as a half-joke.

as others have said, do let management know.

if they don't fix it, or give you an unreasonable timeline, you can fix it yourself

https://www.amazon.com/Sloan-3326009-MIX-60-Mechanical-Lavatory/dp/B001BO8TWA/

this lets you bleed cold water into the hot leg of the faucet. it attaches with a few more of the flexible hoses.

this type of mixer is required for anti-scald code requirements in day cares.

-

this one has a check valve, which is a better thing to have, but the price is ridiculously low

https://www.amazon.com/Mixing-Temperature-Control-Thermostatic-Automatic/dp/B07CF7JRLQ/

so it may be garbage.

Mixing Valve, 3 Way DN20 Thermostatic Mixing Valve Male Thread Brass Mixing Valve for Domestic Hot Water,Small Floor Heating Circuit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VQZXX8Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FP.IDb9SEWAQ7

Aight, fair warning though, some of this stuff is currently out of stock and I don't know when they'll be restocked and it's been a while since I ordered some of these parts, but I'm pretty sure they're all sitting in my gun at the moment.

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Also, if you need help installing anything or have any questions, feel free to hit me up.

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Let's preface this with some general stuff that you should have on you:

A set of O-rings won't hurt to have, even if you only need the smallest ones

Superglue also doesn't hurt to have, I had to use some

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Starting from the Magazine:

Extended mags are always nice to have

Nine Ball high flow valves

\^ For these, you're gonna want to replace the O-ring on the moving piston of these with smaller ones from that box, then glue it in place. I had an issue where the standard sized one would shift on me when I fired, which really hampered the amount of gas released then kept the valve from closing all the way, leading to the magazine leaking out after one anemic shot. Replacing the O-ring and gluing it in place fixes that

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Going to the actual gun:

Poseidon ICE Breaker Piston Head

\^ Installation's a bit funky, you're gonna want to take the screw from your factory piston head and use that with this piston head without the factory cup looking thing that comes with it

DP Enhanced Rocket Valve

\^ This one's pretty simple, just a drop-in piece

Action 150% Enhanced Hammer Spring

\^ I Think this is what I ordered, it looks pretty similar and if memory serves you should install it with the tapered end down

A+ 6.01 Precision Inner Barrel & Rubber Set

\^ Really just a simple drop-in, don't lose your gun's hop-up bead!

RA-Tech Steel threaded outer barrel

\^ This one is kind of weird, and will need three O-rings to get working to its greatest potential. When I first dropped this part in, my gun was literally chewing up BBs and spitting plastic chunks out. To remedy this, use two more O-rings from that box and put them around the inner barrel, this fixed the problem for me. The last O-ring is a real steel part and goes into the groove on the outside of the barrel and is there mainly to improve accuracy. Plus, the barrel doesn't come with a thread protector so you'll want to pick one up separately, the barrel uses 16mm CW threading

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Bonuses; stuff that you could pick up and use, but I haven't for whatever reason:

Sights: I use the standard sights because pretty early on I poked out the little white plastic dots and replaced them with glow paint, as well as custom mounting a fiber optic holder for the front sight (PM me and I'll send you the STL) but you could give the tactical sights a try

USP Tactical Front Sight

USP Tactical Adjustable Rear Sights

USP Comp-Tac Front Sight

USP Comp-Tac Rear Sights

\^ The compact tactical sights look like they'll fit on the standard slide, but I don't know. Front sights are held in by friction and should be glued down, Read sights are held in by a hex screw that goes in through the BBU

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Recoil Springs; I bought these, then realized that since I live in Massachusetts, it's too cold most of the year to actually use them to their greatest potential

Enhanced Recoil Springs

\^ Only the big one on the outside actually does anything, so you only need to worry about installing that one

A water main z-wave shutoff and some z-wave leak detectors could save the day. Pricey, but so are candy cabs.

https://www.amazon.com/WaterCop-Z-Wave-Shut-Off-Actuator-Prevention/dp/B07G7FLMCD/

RP46463 Cartridge Assembly Replacement For Delta MultiChoice 17 Series (2006-Present) Shower Faucet RP46073 Seat and Spring Adapter included https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G2TCSKF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_U1msDb6XC1N13

You need the one with the white cap. Before 2006.

The rubber goes against the seat. Some are/were replaceable or could be reground.
tool

how to

sourcingmap® 15mmx6mmx26mm Metall Taper konische Kompression Feder Silber 30 Stück DE de https://www.amazon.de/dp/B071LMPWHT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.YxZCbETSFP09

But - they are to long, you have to cut them on the top with pliers and bend it. I think i have cut them at the fourth and a half row, the half row bend to the middle.

Just try it to get the best results for you, the pack contains enough springs ;) I have also modified one pair for my son's touch controllers, works also flawlessly.

It might be a handle from an old sink/faucet. The one in this link obviously isn't the same, but the threaded bit is similar.

Shower Cartridge puller

And this too?

Delta Faucet RP3614 Repair Kit Single Handle Knob Or Lever
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQW9RK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_S6H9BbNX1K0AA

https://www.amazon.com/Moen-97466-Replacement-Part/dp/B000UNTOTA/ref=sr_1_4?

This one is pretty close.

I imagine you could just get a pretty cheap pair at your local big box hardware store.

Yea usually Chicago faucet and a lot of vessel faucets use a m10x3/8 compression line.

https://www.amazon.com/Homevacious-Connector-Compression-Stainless-Connection/dp/B07DFYBKCW

Eek you aren't going to be able to retrofit something in there. You MIGHT be able to get away with something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/WaterCop-Z-Wave-Shut-Off-Actuator-Prevention/dp/B07FX46DCT/

If it's not leaking around the stem, you can also just replace the rubber washer. Take the valve apart like handymanct said, and remove the screw on the back of the stem to get the old washer off. The washers come in different sizes and are either flat or cone shaped.
If there's anything left of the old washer, you might be able to read the size stamped into one side, it should look something like "00" or "1/4M"

You can get a washer assortment from places like Lowe's (here's one example) or a hardware store.

You might also want to grind the valve seat while it's apart. Look inside the valve where the washer presses against the opening and see if it's corroded or pitted. If it is, the valve won't seal well even with a new washer. You can use a faucet seat grinder like this (possibly available at a hardware store) to smooth the surface.

BUY THE FUCKING CARTRIDGE PULLER! Danco 86712A Cartridge Puller for Moen https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000DZH9I8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_y2WMAb7FF3GMB

Lowes carries a flange with a rubber donut that slides into the cast iron pipe and expands similar to this. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H8M9ZBP/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07H8M9ZBP&pd_rd_w=2YpIE&pf_rd_p=80559f3c-f83b-49c1-8a72-40f936e9df7a&pd_rd_wg=lNJnH&pf_rd_r=KJWAYVFCZH9T3RBN9XV5&pd_rd_r=ac305afa-5f85-11e9-a6d1-89beb44619b8 I used one several years ago. Works well.

I had to buy a cartridge puller from my local big box store for a stuck Moen on one of my faucets.
Fairly cheap and easy to use.
This one actually

Thanks I shouldn’t just grab one of these is what I’m hearing

Moen T2901BN Gibson Posi-Temp Shower Valve Trim Kit Brushed Nickel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1JMXZ1

Moen T2471BN Genta Posi-Temp Pressure-Balancing Modern Trim Without Valve, Brushed Nickel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N1J35PB

https://www.amazon.com/Danco-Outdoor-Garden-Spigot-Extender/dp/B07NJ551Y7/ref=pd_cp_86_3?pd_rd_w=wTteE&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=SDZ5FRBVSSFCZ82JJ060&pd_rd_r=4bc96f92-ec66-4006-b865-dc4d7bc393bd&pd_rd_wg=H4dHA&pd_rd_i=B07NJ551Y7&psc=1&refRID=SDZ5FRBVSSFCZ82JJ060

screw it onto the wall higher up or a 2x4 in the garden itself.

It looks like a [moen] ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000XHHYUO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479632311&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=moen+chateau+lavatory+faucet&dpPl=1&dpID=417Pdjj%2BoBL&ref=plSrch) but not sure a out it. If you take the handle off (hex key in the front) and send pic I can tell for sure. Moen will give you a new [cartridge] ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0006290R6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479632591&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=1225b&dpPl=1&dpID=31QEcM0Ab7L&ref=plSrc) for free if you bring the old one in. [Delta repair kits] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BQW9RK/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1479632446&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=delta+repair+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=41kTyvFeigL&ref=plSrch) almost as cheap.