(Part 2) Best faucet valves according to redditors
We found 65 Reddit comments discussing the best faucet valves. We ranked the 40 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
This is the one we got: https://www.amazon.com/Grohflex-Cosmopolitan-Function-Thermostatic-Trimwith/dp/B006K8HUF4
I also had to buy this to install it: https://www.amazon.com/GROHE-35026000-Grohflex-Universal-Rough/dp/B006K8HXNI
There are probably less expensive ones but we're happy with this one. Note that some valves which cost less and look similar are "pressure balancing" valves. They're definitely an improvement but not as good as temperature regulating valves.
So, not cheap. But the 50-year-old shower valves in my bathroom were beyond repairing and I would have had to replace them anyway.
I would keep away from tankless, given your location in the US north-east. The flow rate depends on the inlet temperature, so if you are trying to raise the temperature from 50F to 120F, your flow rate would be somewhere in the 5GPM range. If your inlet temperature is significantly lower, your flow rate with drop accordingly.
See: http://energy.gov/energysaver/sizing-new-water-heater
You can run your laundry room sink for a few minutes in the winter, and measure the temperature at the fixture. That will give you a rough idea.
The other issue is that some water heaters are actually set too low. 158F will kill Legionella bacteria almost instantly. 140F is a good compromise. You will of course need a tempering valve to bring the temperature back down to 120F at the fixtures. It may not be code in your area, but I prefer a tempering valve as opposed to an anti-scald valve. This is so you can adjust the temperature at the closest fixture to be 120F.
Typically the anti-scald valves reduces the temperature to no more than 120F at the water heater outlet. By the time this reaches the fixtures, the temperature might be down to 115F, which most people find too cool for showers.
The mixing valve I like is:
http://www.amazon.com/AM101-US-1-HONEYWELL-THERMOSTATIC-UNION-SWEAT-100-145F/dp/B002DGEOJC
You might be able to get away with a 40 gallon tank with the combination of a higher temp setting and a thermostatic mixing valve.
This seems to be the best compromise from a safety/cost point of view. Ideally you would have the water heater set to a minimum of 140F and then have anti-scald valves installed at each fixture, but for most consumers that is not practical due to the costs involved. (Sinks are easy, but showers and baths involve pulling out tile)
Hope this helps!
I put together this infographic to show my not-yet-finalized plumbing set-up. I'd love to hear any layout feedback/advice or things I may be missing...
A couple specific questions:
Here are the parts (*purchased):
(A) Camco TastePURE (B) *Valterra Water Inlet Hatch (C) Shurflo 4008 Revolution Pump (D/S) *Class A Customs 30 gal (E/H/M) Sharkbite Ball Valve (F/G) Sharkbite Check Valve (I) *Eccotemp i12-LP (J) Sharkbite Mixing Valve (K) Suggestions? (L) Suggestions? (N) Suggestions? (O/P/R) HepVo Trap (Pipes) 1/2-inch Pex
You need a very specific vac breaker.
That plastic one is a typical ght x ght vac breaker that comes with irrigation kits.
Just google hose bibb vacuum breaker fine thread and buy one.
Everyone else in this thread has no idea what they are talking about.
Arrowhead PK1360 Vacuum Breaker FINE Thread Inlet Brass Finish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007VQDJXG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rtZjDb53PYFW3
Nope. You linked the hi flow. This is the proper kit https://www.amazon.com/Kohler-GP76851-Single-Handle-Pressure-Balance/dp/B001GZU9FY
Here is what you are looking for, it is a frost free spigot
You are missing a cap on top and the handle in the front.
https://www.amazon.com/KOHLER-K-302-K-NA-Ceramic-Wall-Mount-Two-Handle/dp/B000ND2IJ0
Admittedly, I was having issues getting leverage based on how this was mounted in my shower. After thinking about it (and examining the threads on the fitting), I could have simply lost torque by not having a solid surface to wrench against.
If you want to split off to an ice maker, I would get these two fittings, plus a short section of 1/2” copper or PEX to connect between them.
SharkBite U4008LFA Conversion Coupling, 1/2-Inch by 1/2-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005QBCEE8
SharkBite 25558LFA Dual Compression Outlet Angle Stop Valve, 1/2 inch x 3/8 inch x 3/8 inch
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0764DV9ZS
Another option if you want separate valve control for each of the faucet and ice maker is to add a Sharkbite tee after the coupling and attach 2 stop valves (one to each outlet):
SharkBite U362LFA Tee Plumbing Fitting Pipe Connector, 1/2 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002STXNZU
SharkBite 23037-0000LFA Straight Stop Valve 1/2 inch x 3/8 inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XM6J1A
Start at or very near the water meter. Generally for reasons having to do with maximizing available flow, a well built system will have a point of connection to the potable water service line as close to the water meter as possible. In most jurisdiction in the United States lateral line from the water main in the street leading to the water meter, the water meter itself, and up to a fitting just after the water meter called a "curb stop" will belong to and should only be messed with by the water purveyor. Somewhere usually just after that "curb stop" or "curb fitting", where the water service line to your house that you own and that is your responsibility is where the point of connection is typically made. And that is also the most logical location for a manual shutoff valve to permit servicing of the system without interrupting the potable supply to the home. Incidentally, in most jurisdictions this is also where an approved backflow prevention device is installed which prevents contaminated water from the irrigation system from flowing backward into the potable water supplying the home. These are typically in the form of either an above ground device such as a pressure vacuum breaker, or a reduced pressure backflow assembly, or a device below grade protected in an in-ground valve assembly box such as a double check valve assembly. They are normally very easy to spot and can also act as a service shut off.
Might be able to replace it, try it and see. Look for identifying information on the valve, Watts for example. It comes apart with those two big screws. Not a hard repair if you can find the body. Might have to pick out some plaster to give yourself some space.
https://smile.amazon.com/Watts-Tubular-2T-M2-Washing-Machine/dp/B0039MCBR6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=single+handle+washing+machine+valve&qid=1573898403&sr=8-3
Everything is Moen, so the showers are 1222 Positemp cartridges, and the faucets are 1255 duralast cartridges. I don't remember the exact model of the sink faucet. (Quick searching on amazon, the Moen 6190 is very close to the sink faucet,) The shower valve body is the Moen 8371HD I'm pretty sure.
Where would the mop sink faucet's check valves be? On the spout? If that was the case the check valve wouldn't be able to stop the cross siphon condition wouldn't it? This is similar to the mop faucet. I assume the vacuum breaker is the center piece.
Hard to tell from the picture but I think your water line is actually 1/4" compression, not 3/8". If I zoom in on the label I think I see a "4 c". The refridgerator lines I've seen are usually 1/4".
This valve will do it.
www.amazon.com/dp/B005QC1FC4
Make sure the water's off, cut the blue pipe nice and straight, then literally push the valve on. Unscrew the little nut off, and put your line on.
Only about 90% certain this is the exact one I have in my 3-compartment (would also like in my pre-rinse machine sink), but a Chicago Faucet pre-rinse sprayer. It seems very water-conservative with a jet nozzle end that tapers to a slower end - not like a shower head. Think of a single wave of spray with the top end stronger than the bottom end. Very useful, IMO. Easy to clean, too.
We are trying to replace our shower trim kit and we cannot for the life of us ID this thing. I do fear it may be a transfer shower valve...
Screws holes across are ~1 1/8 inch, ~1.5 inch across.
number 12008 or 12009 in side
A shutoff valve like this wouldn't be hard to fit and it's unlikely the landlord would notice until you're long gone. Which you shouldn't do of course.
Would something like this be a drop-in replacement?
https://www.amazon.ca/Grohe-35015000-Grohsafe-Universal-Pressure/dp/B002ERRGT0
Maybe something like this. Plug any unused openings.
https://www.amazon.com/Watts-0388002-Pressure-Vacuum-Breaker/dp/B001QYBNX2
You'll either need a plumber to put one of these on the side of the house, at least one foot higher than the highest head in the system, or, barring that, a slightly different and more expensive version known as an RPZ in the basement or the side of the house. It's required by code and will also give much better results than hooking on to a faucet.
The plumbers mean "stops". They're just extra shutoff valves on the inlets to the mixing valve.
You don't need extra stops. You can buy the Delta Universal Mixing Valve with Stops here, if you want. The one you linked is SHOWER ONLY, no tub spout.
If you have a week, it doesn't matter. I've been renovating for months and the lack of stops is not a problem, the front of that valve is water tight for testing purposes.
Yes, you need the faucet with valve. You can probably buy just the valve assembly at a plumbing supply store. https://www.amazon.com/Moen-T6620-Brantford-Two-Handle-Widespread/dp/B000XVRYSW
https://www.amazon.com/Moen-9000-Widespread-Featuring-Technology/dp/B000T7Q6OI