Best glass thermometers according to redditors

You don't actually need a dark room, it's a common misconception. You only need that if you plan to use an enlarger and make your own prints. I don't, but only due to lack of space in my apartment - I scan them in and order prints at Costco or Bartells like any normal digital scan.

If you get one of the Paterson Reel tanks like I have in that photo, you just need a changing bag. Put your 1-2 rolls of film, a bottle opener, a pair of scissors, and all the tank pieces in the bag. Seal it up, pop open the film canister with the bottle opener, then spool the film onto the reels. Put both reels back in the tank and seal it up. Everything else can be done in daylight. (you can skip the bag and do this in a pitch black room like your bathroom or a closet if you want. I prefer the bag- I can sit on the couch and watch TV while I spool rolls).

Then you're just dumping in chemicals on a timed schedule and then unspooling and hanging them to dry when complete. B&W is roughly 13 minutes a batch at diluted 1+1, or 6 minutes at stock (full strength) solution. Stock just uses it up twice as fast, but saves time.

B&W = developer (12-15 minutes for most films at 1+1 - check the massive dev chart -> stop bath (1 minute) -> fixer (1 minute) -> rinse (2-3 minutes) -> hang to dry (2ish hours or until totally dry).

Color = developer (6ish minutes) -> blix (2-3 minutes) -> rinse (2-3 minutes) -> stabilizer (1 minute) -> hang to dry (2ish hours).

I'm pulling those numbers from memory, but the unicolor kit has a good guide with it.

Stuff you need

• D-76 developer (black and white)
  
• Stop bath (black and white)
  
• Fixer (black and white)
  
• C-41 developer kit (color)
  
• Changing bag
  
• 500ml beaker (at least 1, up to 3 for convenience)
  
• 1L beaker (at least 1, up to 3 for convenience)
  
• .5L plastic bottles (At least 6)
  
• Scissors
  
• Bottle opener
  
• Funnel (optional, if you have steady pouring hands)
  
• Paterson Reel tank
  
• Glass thermometer (optional for B&W, necessary for color)
  
• Clothespins/some string or paracord to hang film to dry
  
• A bucket (5G or so- small cleaning bucket - Color only)
  
  For B&W film - you use the 1+1 developer one time (150ml per roll of film) and dump it when you finish. Which means that 1L D-76 pouch gives you 6 rolls of film. I buy mine in the 1G bags to mix up as they're cheaper, but you need a 1G plastic bottle to store it. For color film that kit does 8-9 rolls of film. The bigger 1G kits are more expensive and you can also buy the chemicals separately. Color is picky because you need to keep it at a constant 103F the whole time or risk ruining them, hence the bucket (or a bathtub). Color developer and all other chemicals you dump back into bottles and re-use until it's used up.
  
  The color film process is actually really well documented in the booklet that comes with the unicolor kit.
  
  If you ever want a hands on trial, I can do a video of the process or a demo at my apartment (my fiance thinks it looks like I'm doing crazy mad science stuff every time)
  
  Check out /r/analog for weekly advice threads or some of these helpful links:
  
  
• Color development
  
• B&W development
  
• Massive Dev chart for B&W

you can order the metal gallium online, melts at 86F/30C, but that's kind of expensive just for one data point

I think I would calibrate it against a glass thermometer I had checked at 0C and 100C. Heat a water bath from 0C to 50C, compare glass thermometer and voltage readings.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LQ2I2M

However, I doubt you'll gain much more accuracy than the two point method.

1. What you want to do is heat it up high enough to decarboxylate but below the vaporization point of THC (150 degrees may be a good number, for maybe 15-20 minutes in the oven). Then simmer it in melted butter for as long as you feel necessary at around the same temperature.
   
   EDIT: You can go higher than 150. Keep in mind that the vaporization points of the active cannabinoids in cannabis are mostly above 260 degrees, so keep it 30-50 degrees or so below that point.
   
   
2. It's not all that smelly. Definitely not as smelly as smoking it. The idea is to heat it up below the vaporization point so there shouldn't be [too] many stray odors.
   
   
3. Depends on the strength of the bud and the user's tolerance level. I've had very mixed results using low quality bud, so I'd recommend a lot. Maybe an ounce? Note that I have a pretty high tolerance.
   
   >After decarboxylation, I plan on boiling some water, throwing some butter in there
   
   Mixing butter with water? Doesn't seem conducive to the final goal. Just simmer it in pure melted butter. THC likes fat, a lot. You want to bind all the THC to the fat in the butter. Adding water to the mix seems like it will just muddy up the process. If you're worried about burning it, just make sure to keep the burner on a low setting, and keep an eye on the temperature with a thermometer. EDIT: Amazon link for a sweet laboratory thermometer. They usually range around 10-15 bucks.
   
   Good luck fellow ent!

Try Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/SEOH-Thermometer-Spirit-Partial-Immersion/dp/B004LQ2I2M/ref=zg_bs_393283011_14?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=46XJGS5GFYEXYB9H23EN

https://www.amazon.com/Thermometer-Spirit-Total-Immersion-Scale/dp/B004LPZ42Y/ref=zg_bs_393283011_33?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GB83DP7GAGSWKTP5AW7V

https://www.amazon.com/SEOH-Thermometer-Spirit-Partial-Immersion/dp/B004LQ2I2M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494692273&sr=8-1&keywords=chemistry+thermometer

This one would work. Have to pay shipping if you don't have Amazon Prime though.


If you don't want to deal with shipping, and you don't have a local homebrew supply shop, a larger supermarket should have a suitable metal dial-type thermometer for $10 or so.


There are several others on Amazon too. That one I linked may or may not have a Fahrenheit scale printed on it; I couldn't really tell from the description. But there are others. You just need a range of around 32F to 212F / 0C to 100C.

ordered this one today: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00551N8Q2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WtnIAb2PJBB0T arrives tomorrow. I'll start a new post with the temperature, stay tuned!

edit: here's the post.

So the melting point of adex is between 81-82 degrees C. being as water boils at 100C you'll be fine using this method.
You'll first need some capillary tubes and a decent immersion thermoter

This is where it gets a bit tricky. I would probably use a glass beaker to boil the water so you're able to see clearly when the sample begins to melt. be sure to calibrate thermo and account for any discrepancy in the range.

anyway, this is how I've done it in the past. if anyone else has a more reliable or easier method im all ears.

I think a hot plate and a thermo gun would work well too..

Can't help you on the stove case but a friend of mine has been using a good old fashioned spirit thermometer for years now. He just hangs it from a bush or tree in the campsite and then it's pretty simple to "operate".

/edit-a lot of watches have built in thermometers, but you have to take it off and let it stabilize to get an accurate reading. The old fashioned thermometer works better...

Here is the mobile version of your link