Best orchestral instrument strings according to redditors

It is a Kaplan Ball End Adapter for use on single hook style fine tuners. That's what it says on the product page here, anyway.

User /u/bazzage gave more input over at /r/violinist :
>With many ball-end strings, it is possible to pop out the ball, or crack it in pieces which may be picked out of the loop without |damaging it. That may not be possible with the special construction of the Kaplan wound E, so the adaptor becomes necessary.

Maybe mark this as solved /u/BestN00b

I completely disagree. I have a surprisingly well made cheap violin (~200 $) that sounded pretty shit with some random cheap strings. I switched to dominant strings and Pirastro gold label E and it completely changed the tone and playability of my violin. The difference between good and bad strings is clear on any violin regardless of its quality.

PICKING OUT A VIOLIN?

• Avoid your local music store if possible. Instead, you want to find a luthier - someone who specialises in string instruments like the violin. Such a store is known as a luthiery, but it's not a common term, so just look for your local violin shop. If there isn't one, your local music store may have an in-house string expert on their staff who will be able to provide assistance. Ordering online can be a crapshoot, and in general should be your last resort. Once you have more experience, you'll find that being able to play on the instrument in question before buying it is the ideal test for finding the right violin.
  
  
• If you've got a teacher, they can be of great help in selecting a violin. Often an experienced teacher will have a particular model, brand, or even luthier that they can recommend to you. They may have extra violins of their own that they're willing to lend, or have other students looking to sell their current outfits for cheap. On top of that, once you've got your violin, a teacher will be able to help ensure that your violin is set up right.
  
  
• If you're not 100% sure of your commitment, renting is definitely the best way to go. Once you're decided you're sticking to it and want something better, some stores may offer rent-to-own or financing plans that can put some of the pricier intermediate-level instruments into your price range. But remember - expensive does not mean better! Once again, the best indicator is to try it before you buy it, and you may find that you prefer the tone of a particular cheaper violin to that of the pricier ones.
  
  
• As a general rule of thumb - if it's hot pink, electric blue, or some other colour that isn't, well, wood - it's crap. As far as I know, the sole exception to this rule is Luis and Clark's line of carbon fibre instruments, but if you're ready to drop five grand on a violin, then you probably don't need any of this advice.
  
  
• Once you've got your violin, changing the strings is highly recommended unless you bought it from a store that already set it up for you. Changing strings isn't rocket science, but you may want to let your teacher or luthier walk you through it the first time. Some strings are quite expensive which will make you think they're good (they are), but remember - in the end, the tone of your instrument is primarily determined by, well, your instrument. If you've only got a $200 Chinese factory violin, save the evahs for when you upgrade, and go for the tonicas instead. However, if you've been playing for a while on a cheap, but decent violin and you find yourself wanting a better sound without the associated price tag, a new set of strings just might breathe new life into your instrument.
  
  
• What strings are good? Honestly, this isn't a question that can be answered easily, because the same set of strings will sound different on two different violins. In fact, some violinists may even have strings from four different sets on their violin! Once you're good enough, you'll be able to experiment with different sets and combinations on your own instrument to find what works best for it. However, if you're just looking to upgrade from your super-sensitive reds, most would agree that this set, the Thomastik Dominant A, D, G + the Pirastro Gold Label E, is the standard to which all other strings are measured.
  
  
• Not sure what a ball end or a loop end is? Generally, you'll want ball end strings, except when it comes to your E string, where you'll need to check your fine tuner. Does it look like a mini tuning fork? Get a ball end E. If it looks like a little hook instead, you'll need the loop end.

this is like asking if a good set of wheels will improve a cheap car. a good set of strings will probably make it sound a little better, but no matter how much you polish a turd, it's still shit at the end of the day.

but like what many other posters have said, it really depends. i've had good experiences with the Helicore strings in the past and they are relatively cheap compared to many other popular string combinations.

I've always had problems with whistling E strings, especially on certain passages where I wasn't able to change my bowing technique to prevent it. Last year there was a song I was playing regularly with a certain note that would *always* whistle when I crossed over from the A string, so I vowed to go on a hunt for an E string that prevented whistling.

​

I can thankfully say that I found it in this string, which has some sort of special connector which reduces whistling. It's been working flawlessly so far. :-)
https://www.amazon.com/DAddario-Kaplan-Non-Whistling-Violin-Aluminum/dp/B000P61P30

I have a few questions for you here if you don't mind. I'm a (very) beginner cellist and I'm playing one of these cheap-ass amazon cellos. I immediately replaced the tailpiece, the bow, the strings, and the rosin. I'd say the tailpiece and bow replacements really dramatically increased playability for me, though the base instrument is still obviously kind of shit.

What I want to know is, what kind of a difference would I see in being on an actual better Cello? Given the nature of the beast, it seems like i'm not running into the playability issues that you do on terrible guitars (bad frets, buzzing), and I'm not going to. I understand tone won't be the best, but I'm not certain I'm a good enough player for that to matter yet anyway. The whole friction peg situation is a pain, but the better tailpiece means I rarely have to re-tune at the head, I just get them stuck in the general area and i'm good for like a month.

Also, you mentioned putting better strings on, can you comment a little more on the difference between a $20 set, and say, this set of jargars? Edit: I guess you already did, What I mean is, can you describe the specific way cheap strings sound bad that better ones don't? I want to see if that's a part of my experience.

Also also, the rosin i'm using is still pretty damn cheap, and I feel like i'm leaving alot of rosin on the strings (a white cake buildup), but it takes really alot of rosin for the bow to feel sticky. Is better rosin better in that way? Do you have a recommendation on brand? How do you de-rosin a bow to get the chance to switch brands?

Thanks!

Spend some money on strings and one of these

Peter Infeld strings are the most vibrant strings I’ve ever played on. First time I put them on my violin I was just stunned at how easily it was to project sound.
https://www.amazon.com/Thomastik-Infeld-Violin-Strings-Platinum/dp/B003JEAHES/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=peter+infeld+violin+strings&qid=1564407077&s=gateway&sprefix=peter+infeld+vi&sr=8-1

The set of Dominants with Pirastro E is standard, but you want to pay careful attention. You want one of these two:

https://www.amazon.com/JSI-Special-Violin-String-Set/dp/B000V6E01I/ref=sr_1_7?crid=ZT52RD2Z3UFF&keywords=dominant+violin+strings+4+4+set&qid=1564428453&s=gateway&sprefix=dominant%2Caps%2C131&sr=8-7

https://www.amazon.com/JSI-Special-Violin-String-Set/dp/B000V6FY8Q/ref=sr_1_3?crid=ZT52RD2Z3UFF&keywords=dominant+violin+strings+4+4+set&qid=1564428453&s=gateway&sprefix=dominant%2Caps%2C131&sr=8-3

But which one you pick is going to depend on whether your E-string is a ball end or loop end. You should be able to easily tell by looking at how the E-string hooks into the fine tuner. Like people are saying, by the time an A-string breaks, it's long past time to change strings anyway.

Be careful taking the advice of people who like more premium strings. That's a question only you can answer after trying many different setups (some of which can cost up to double the ones linked above).

Your a and d strings are helicore strings. In my experience with the a string I thought it was too bright and had an issue with it being squeaky past the first octave harmonic. I've been using the [pirastro passione a string] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049BN2OW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fvrGzb2M6YSGV) for a few months ,which is a much warmer sounding string (in my opinion) and isn't squeaky at all for me.

I have this set. They sound pretty good for 120$

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EENKMC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qceHDbQQG1RXZ

Alright, I found my D (huehuehue).

strings!

Unfortunately, the cost is still higher than purchasing a perfectly capable cheap student violin off of Amazon. Regardless, I used Inland PLA, which is $14.99 for a 2.2lb spool. Here's the total breakdown:

• Inland PLA - 1kg @ $14.99 (http://www.microcenter.com/product/434392/175mm_Blue_PLA_3D_Printer_Filament_-_1kg_Spool_(22_lbs)) = $7.20
  
• Carbon fiber truss rods (https://goodwinds.com/20143.html) = $15.99
  
• D'Addario Prelude Violin String Set, 4/4 Scale, Medium Tension (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002Y6BJI) = $15.49
  
• 1set 3L3R grover - style tunning pegs Tuners Machine Heads Gold High Quality (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0092M2EZQ) = $9.99
  
• ADM 4/4 Full Size Well Balanced Brazilwood Violin Bow with Wood Stick, Horsehair, Ebony Frog with Pearl Eye and Pearl Slide, Nickel Silver Mounted (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DW12HR8) = $22.59
  
• Vio Music Full Size 4/4 Violin Chinrest - Ebony with Standard Bracket (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BDON64Y) = $11.99
  
• Everest EZ Series Shoulder Rest for 4/4 - 3/4 Violin (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002QJVTNA) = $12.99
  
• 
  ADM® 4/4 Full Size Basic Professional Triangular Shape Super Light Suspension Violin Case (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00J1UXIPY) = $36.99
  
• D'Addario Natural Rosin, Light (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002OP0WC) = $3.59
  
  Total Cost = $136.82
  
  I used a MendelMax 1.0 with an E3D V6 hot end and Bowden extruder setup.

For sake of simplicity, buy them a set of Dominants (yeah there are other great strings out there, but you can't go wrong with Dominants) https://www.amazon.com/Thomastik-Dominant-Violin-String-Set/dp/B000E1TJDE and head to any of the shops people have listed below--my recommendation would be Bischofberger.

https://www.amazon.co.jp/THOMASTIK-135-Dominant-%E3%83%89%E3%83%9F%E3%83%8A%E3%83%B3%E3%83%88-4%E3%83%90%E3%82%A4%E3%82%AA%E3%83%AA%E3%83%B3%E5%BC%A6%E3%82%BB%E3%83%83%E3%83%88/dp/B001LRMQH6/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1481359379&sr=1-1&keywords=violin+dominant

Thats pretty awful link, but what ever. Are those the strings you mean? What is the numer (130/129) you can select at that product?

Pretty standard strings. Must be the angle or something.

Thank you for the info.

My teacher specifically advised against Dominants, saying they're overpriced for the quality and don't last very long. Also, on Amazon I found these Fiddlerman strings which people claim are comparable to Dominants but cost half as much. Have you, or do you know anyone, who has tried these out?

This is the set that i have on my cello, they sound amazing.

/u/pramit57, I read your responses and it seems clear to me that the strings are causing the problem. Entirely. Without question. This problem will not go away until you take those strings off. Possibly until they're out of the house, in the dump, far far away from your violin. Maybe perform a cleansing ritual over your instrument before putting the next set on.

I mean, I looked them up to get an idea of price range you were looking at, and how far off you really were from Dominants. Turns out, these things are about $3 a set. I mean. I'm shocked you got anything more sophisticated than different thicknesses of wire, honestly.

So, yes, it seems that Dominants are out of the question. (Also, WOW Dominants are marked up in India. 8800??? That's about $130, for my US peeps. That's approximately what I pay for Evah Gold viola strings.) But in this case, you really should look into some of those brands in the $ price range on that string chart. This might even be a situation where Red Labels are an improvement. I have no idea how many of those options are available in India, but I would bet some are. For instance, there's a set of D'Addario Pro Arte strings for 4099, which, I know, is a lot more, but at least they're synthetic core and from a reputable company. There's also D'Addario Preludes, which looks like a comparable level to Red Labels, for 2250. They're still steel core, but at least they're wound, not plated like yours. Just a disclaimer, I've never tried either of these, but D'Addario is legit and they've got to be better than what you have.

They do sell NS Design strings specifically for their cello. I was looking at them. They are ~$110. I have seen various sets of cello strings online for $10 and I've seen some sets for $200+. I'm not sure what is a good price for strings for a non-professional, amateur 'just for fun' cellist. And are there better options?

Playing closer to the bridge is certainly something I noticed after watching my video (which is why I video myself!). I think it's the way I'm sitting with the electric cello. Sometimes it's difficult to get a feel for where to position the NS Design cello since there aren't any touch points (and I'm playing this cello after having had a 10 year break).

Edit: grammar

I -need- these violin strings: http://www.amazon.com/DAddario-Prelude-Violin-String-Tension/dp/B0002Y6BJI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=2JESGT0ISX3UR&coliid=I1ZB0OKBC4VINK

I'm trying to practice something violin-related every day. And sadly my a-string broke, so I can't practice the actual violin until I get a new one. But I'm on an extremely limited budget right now (husband has been out of work due to an injury), so I don't know when I'll be able to.


Thank you for such a kind contest! :)

Dominant + Pirastro Gold Label E combo

Pirastro Tonica (cheaper but still great)

I would recommend synthetic core, but if you are an absolute beginner, the cheapest probably would do. The choices on that page specifically are steel only; this one is 133 for the G string.

I am somewhat confused as to how you could already be a college sophomore and have never bought new strings -- idk, maybe your teacher always bought them? It's just a bit unusual -- but that's a question for some other time :)

For my entire life I've been using Dominants for G, D, and A, with a Pirastro Gold E.

Most violins' tailpieces, including mine, are set up to take ball-end E strings: https://www.amazon.com/JSI-Special-Violin-String-Set/dp/B000V6E01I/

But if yours is set up for a loop-end E string, they also make those: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000V6FY8Q

The G, D, and A strings are always ball-end so you don't have to worry about those, if for whatever reason you move to buying strings separately rather than as a set. The Dominants+Gold E set is sold that way because many professionals use that combination, but many others have their own individual taste, sometimes even by mixing and matching strings form different makers.

To know which type of E string your tailpiece is set up to accept, this article could help: http://blog.sharmusic.com/blog/bid/81287/Do-You-Need-a-Loop-or-a-Ball-End-for-Your-E-string

Yup Helicore is a pretty common string for student instruments.

Larsen (A String) AMAZON

A G string costs less than $20 shipped.

amazon