Best pipe supports according to redditors

I think it's a type of water hammer arrestor. It's a device that makes it so your pipes don't bang.

https://www.amazon.ca/Zurn-Wilkins-Z1700-100-Shoktrol-Arrestors/dp/B00GG1T95O

https://www.amazon.com/Halex-26161-Count-2-Inch-Steel/dp/B002TIFVWI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1501855185&sr=8-3&keywords=pipe+bracket

would this work?

Foot

2ea Strut nut

Strut clamp for 3/4" copper tubing

And a couple 3/8x1" bolts and whatever lags or Anchorage your using for the floor

I honestly don't have any resources, mostly because PEX is so damn simple that there's really nothing to it. You just need a PEX tubing cutter (for making perfect cuts and not having to clean them up) and a PEX ring tool - I prefer the "cinch" (aka "pinch clamp") style, because the rings can be removed easily if you mess up and need to re-do a connection, and because you don't need to mess with checking each of your connections with a gauge to make sure it was clamped tight enough - you just squeeze the tool together until it unlatches and you're done. Here is a kit with both the tools you need and a handful of the rings.

Then, you'll just need a ton more rings (I use these 3/4" and these 1/2" ones, get WAY more than you think you'll need just in case); you'll need the PEX tubing, get that at the hardware store because it costs a little less than Amazon and they sell the straight pieces which are easier to work with if you are doing short runs (under 5 to 10 feet); and you'll need the appropriate fittings. The fittings are super simple to understand, just grab what you think you'll need and then grab a few more extras (remember you can just remove the cinch clamp and re-use the fittings as much as you want); I recommend getting the plastic fittings when you are getting started because they are much cheaper and they have a built-in "spacer" that helps you position the cinch ring exactly where it goes. Honestly I don't re-use the plastic ones - I just toss them as they are so cheap - but the brass fittings are easy to reuse (but they do cost more). Get some PEX hangers to hold the tubing up securely, I use these ones (just pick the size you need).

To make a PEX connection, you just use your cutting tool (which cuts like butter, it's shockingly easy to cut) to make a straight cut; put a ring over the tube, then push the fitting into the tube as far as it will go. Slide the ring so it's 1/8 to 1/4" from the end of the tube (or, right up to the "spacer" on plastic fitting), then open your cinch tool, put the jaws over the "ear" that sticks out of the ring, and squeeze together until the ratcheting mechanism unlocks, which means the ring is done. It helps to have someone hold the fitting for you while you position the ring and squeeze the tool, especially on 3/4", until you get the hang of it.

If you have any questions you can DM me. Here is a picture of my completed Viega Manabloc setup, which has 3/4" PEX coming in the top from the cold water supply and hot water heater, and then has individual valves for 1/2" PEX runs that go directly to each of the fixtures in the house. By doing it this way, I used a LOT more PEX tubing, but have far LESS fittings so it went quick and gives me a lot of flexibility - now, I can turn individual fixtures off and on from the manifold. Very happy with the setup.

Update: So I've been extensively testing my DIY Balsa wood MFLB- and below listed are my observations

1. While using freshly charged 2800 mAh Nimh rechargeable batteries, the mesh gets hot quite quick. If i look closely at the herb under the plexiglass- I can see vapor form within 10-15 seconds of engaging the battery.
   
   
2. If i use the Advanced method outlined in the MFLB flight guide, which is- Sip- sip-sip-sip and then a longish slow drag (in native mode- without any sort of stem)- My lips really do feel the heat- and I have burnt my lips (in a minor way though) quite a few times. - With this method I have been able to achieve some visible vapor on exhale and the hit feels real good and extremely flavorfull. A successful hit like this needs the battery to be engaged for at least 50+ seconds (almost a minute)- The battery get quite hot to the touch
   
   
3. Soon the battery looses power and I typically need two batteries to bring about 0.2 grams of herb to an even brown with a toasted smell.
   
   My conclusion so far:
   
   I think the mechanical bond between the mesh and the copper wires isn't ideal- as a result there's a lot of wasted power as the battery heats up- making this whole setup quite inefficient
   
   Which leads me to the following questions:
   
   
4. Should I be using Copper clad Steel rods instead of solid copper rods
   I saw someone suggest these
   https://www.amazon.com/Sioux-Chief-506-26CPK2-Pipe-Hanger/dp/B000H5YCMK/ref=sr_1_25?ie=UTF8&qid=1478582466&sr=8-25&keywords=copper+pipe+hook
   Will this make a significant difference?
   
   
5. I've seen people suggest Lead free Silver Solder to bond the conducting rods and the SS mesh- Will this make a significant difference? If yes- will this solder do?
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HA7XLP6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AG2F6V09PFCTQ
   
   
6. While soldering the conducting rods with the SS mesh- will i need to use Flux? If yes- what kind of flux will I need to use - (I'd much appreciate it if someone could link me up to an amazon.com product here)
   
   Thanks in advance fellow ents! :)

Now carefully remove it all and send it off to a plating shop to be plated with a brushed nickle finish.

I've done that a few times. Except with bell hangers instead of unistrut and cushion clamps.