Best pipe fittings & pipes according to redditors

We found 487 Reddit comments discussing the best pipe fittings & pipes. We ranked the 323 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

Next page


Pipe fittings
Pipe insulation products
Pipe heat cables
Pipe supports
Pipe clamps

Top Reddit comments about Pipe Fittings & Pipes:

u/wwabc · 60 pointsr/HomeImprovement

they make a tool just for that

faucet / basin / sink wrench:

u/Fake_account27 · 40 pointsr/HomeImprovement

A ceiling fan? They do not require any attic space and wires can be run along the stud cavity. If you plan to diy make sure you get the fan electical box that mounts directly to the stud. Example

u/DesperatePleasure · 17 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Getting a timer, might work. This is what I use for my water solution for plants.


Mini Resistor:


Works perfectly and I never have to adjust it unless a week long rain is in the forecast.

u/DazarGaidin · 14 pointsr/vandwellers

The only gadget like thing i have that people might not know about, and im sure some people here would, is a water bandit.

u/coolhandluke45 · 10 pointsr/Plumbing

This would work. It drills the PVC pipe out of the fitting so you can glue a longer piece in.

u/my_cat_joe · 9 pointsr/HomeImprovement

That soil pipe is lead. It's pretty common that they aren't attached to anything, but it's not going to go anywhere either. You need one of these. They come in 4 inch, and (for really old houses) 3 inch sizes. You set that in your soil pipe, expand it to fit snug, attach that to the floor (which is the tricky bit because you may need drill through the tile with a diamond bit), then attach the toilet to the new flange with a pair of hand-tightened toilet bolts. A wax ring goes between the new flange and the toilet. I hope this helps!

Also, if the lead soil pipe is not perfectly round or flush, you can gently hammer it into shape. It's pretty malleable once you start working it.

u/TheNomadicHermit · 8 pointsr/Autoflowers

What do you want to know?

I will give you 3 pointers if you buy this particular unit, though. I only bought this because it's the cheapest 4 stage you can get, and I know I don't need all the bells and whistles (in-line TDS, etc -except one that I will mention in part 2 below) that come with the ones that cost way more.

  1. If you want to make serious quantities of water, and you don't have the patience of a saint, get THIS MEMBRANE and just keep the included 50gpd membrane as a spare. The dow filmtec membranes are the best you can get. They're the only ones that really produce anywhere close to their stated GPD rating. The 75GPD membrane is great too. Honestly it's just a more convenient, and longer lasting membrane either way. I've gone through a shitload of RO membranes. Whenever I need a replacement, the filmtec 75 is what I buy.

  2. If you're installing it on a bathroom sink that has easily accessible male threading (after you remove the aerator), then get one of THESE. It's much easier to just divert the faucet water to your 1/4" tubing than having to detach and reattach the included plastic faucet adapter every time you want to make water. If you want to cut the faucet out of the picture altogether (my preferred method) then install a SADDLE VALVE straight to your 1/2" copper pipe (cold water pipe ONLY - never connect an RO/DI to hot water) and a SHUTOFF VALVE in-line between the pipe and your RO/DI's supply port. That's what I did today. Tapped into the copper pipe behind my bathroom sink; drilled a hole in the wall just above the sink and ran the tubing into the bathroom; installed shutoff valve there; drilled holes in undersink cabinet to accommodate supply, waste, and clean tubes; mounted the filter unit inside the undersink cabinet. Now I have a convenient on/off switch just above my bathroom sink. The tubing for waste and clean are coiled up between the cabinet and my tub. When I want to make water I just snake the waste line down my bathtub drain, pop my water sprayer in the tub and fill her up. No worries of spills/overflow. No hassle of connecting/disconnecting plastic fittings that are prone to thread strip.

  3. Doesn't hurt to install a BACKFLUSH. This is the one 'bell and whistle' that I think is actually really useful. Especially if you have really hard water, It's good to flush heavy solids out of your membrane occasionally.
u/strifejester · 8 pointsr/MPSelectMiniOwners

Depending if there is enough left you can pull out the remaining, cut it clean and reinsert it. Otherwise you will need a new tube.


u/DV8_2XL · 7 pointsr/Plumbing

Or you can buy arrestors already made for this situation that look like this

u/VanLifeCrisis · 7 pointsr/vandwellers

Now its up to you to figure out your ethical ground, but you can buy the tool you need to use those faucets.

You can also buy a thing called a water bandit that lets you hook up a length of hose to any faucet, even unthreaded. I will use it in gas station bathrooms to fill an aquatainer (with permission).

u/Cane_Skretteburg · 7 pointsr/Plumbing
u/Domooo · 6 pointsr/MonsterHunter

I bought some black rubber sheets from Amazon, something like this

Cut the sheets down via exacto knife or box cutter. Two strips of 5mm x ~8.0 or ~8.5cm(this part can be adjusted).

I used Gorilla glue to glue them down, specifically the gel kind. I started near the top and then worked my down towards the curved edges on the bottom.

The end result looks like this:

I loved the grip prior to doing this but the wobble drove me crazy, hope this helps. You can find the sheets in stores like Home Depot as well in the plumbing section but may not be black or as cheap.

u/yummybluewaffle_NA · 5 pointsr/Homebrewing

That gave me a great idea! What if I bought all 5 of these items and rigged them up in order onto a 12 oz soda bottle:

u/kruler2113 · 5 pointsr/PipeTobacco

Rubber softy bits are your friend 99 cents on amazon

u/JoannaBe · 5 pointsr/Aquariums

Or this:

Also depending on what the faucet actually is like the may be a part of it that can be temporarily detached to reveal a part that is threaded after all.

u/Neurorational · 4 pointsr/HomeImprovement

You'd need something like this:

And one of these:

But it looks like a tight fit; you may have to tighten the 'hot' valve to make some clearance, and you might also need a little extension or an RV elbow to get it all to fit.

If you can plumb, or afford a plumber, the best way would be to cut the wall open and add a new stop to the cold water line.

u/nickolove11xk · 4 pointsr/electricians

What is wrong with this

u/laserdemon1 · 3 pointsr/3Dprinting

I built a dry box that I keep my PLA in and feed directly to the printer using PTFE tubing.
I used the threaded rod holders from this

And the Filament feeders from here

I also keep one of these in there as well to keep it dry.

Also, I used this PTFE tubing for the runs from the box.

u/azbrum75 · 3 pointsr/Plumbing
u/BabyCowboyAkir · 3 pointsr/Aquariums

i have a 150w in my 46 gallon and it barley keeps up, have to have it cranked to max (86 i think) to keep the tank at 78) I'm going to move up to a 200 soon, or probably just adding a second heater.

price difference is negligible between 150 and 200 for the most part.

I use this instead of the python adapter, half cost, same thing, add a $1 hose clamp if you want but you may not need it, the pressure doesn't get to high out of inside faucets honestly. You don't need the hook in all likelihood, I do my changes solo without the hook just fine.

If you want to save even more money, you can DIY the whole thing for cheaper as well, just search around on the youtube channel of a guy called king of DIY

Don't spend $26 on test strips, strips suck, spend $22 on the api liquid test kit, it will last longer anyway

the bacteria quick start is real hit or miss, all brands, so don't put too much faith in it, you'll still spend weeks cycling probably. remember to get a source of ammonia ($3 for a bottle, get pure stuff, without anything added, if you shake it and there are lasting bubbles, its not what you need)

plants get expensive FAST, so 150 for plants, decorations, fish is gonna be tough. Pool filter sand is great easy substrate though, so is black diamond blasting media if you prefer black, both are probably in the $10 range for enough to cover your tank to the proper depth. driftwood and nice rocks can add up fast.

/r/PlantedTank has a weekly giveaway thread but its not too filled ever, r/aquaswap can get you some good deals on plants too. is aquarium ebay and can get you some good deals too.

I just looked back up and saw you didn't actually say plants, but plants are cool and help your tank stay stable and healthy, you'll probably want some eventually. But you will probably want a better light for live plants as well. That can be down the road I guess.

If you are buying from petsmart, know that they will pricematch their own website, the instore prices are outrageous. Online has to at least compete with other places though, so have the products pulled up online on your phone when you check out. petsmart also has an app, make an account and play their dumb little treat game. Right now if you beat it on hard its 20% off a single item, which is great for your tank stand combo. Easy and medium gives you a 10 and a 15% off as well. Its a simple enough concept, but beating it on hard can suck, I definitely get the feeling it just lets you win after a while though (10ish tries, quit for a day and try again and you'll get it quick)

For stocking it, a couple dwarf gouramis if some kind, honey or powder blue or whatever you like. maybe a schooling fish like cardinal or neon tetras. mollys or platys are colorful and will breed, corys for the bottom. a nerite snail, play around on and see what you can safely stock together and the basic requirements. Dont take it as gospel, just a good baseline and jumping off point for more research.

u/Sniddlers · 3 pointsr/GoRVing

A bit of advice my friend:

It's isn't empty until it runs clear. Keep the chute closed until she's full, then open. Close again, fill with water, then flush one more time.

u/theslutbaby · 3 pointsr/espresso

Personally, OP, I wouldn’t use a garden hose from outside. It would require you to leave it on all the time, and I don’t trust garden hoses to be on all day, let alone 24/7. Also, I don’t know about this particular maker, but a lot of higher end machines have liquid level boards and sensors so they know when and how much to refill automatically.

I would plumb from a sink indoors, so you don’t have to worry about freezing/bursting hoses and tubing during the cold months if you’re in certain climates. Tap into a sink with the following, if you plan to do it yourself (I usually urge people to hire professionals though):

(This hooks onto the shut-off for your sink—the compression nut goes onto the tube first, then the delrin sleeve [linked examples of all of those below] goes on the outside of your 1/4” JG tubing. The brass insert goes inside, then you screw it onto the tee. I would also add one of the plastic shut-off valves to your line under the sink before you run the rest of the line)

I would connect one of these under the sink and behind your espresso maker, but I’m overly cautious. I would also add a second shut-off for your water line right before the machine.

John Guest PPSV040808WP Single Straight Shut-Off Valve, 1/4" Tube OD x 1/4"

As a safety measure, I also like to use these, they clip behind the little protruding plastic pieces that go over the hose.

As for that white fitting at the end of the blue line, I’m assuming that you’re supposed to put that on the machine, yes? Plastic fittings are fine, but these are an option if it ever strips, starts leaking, etc.:

John Guest NC2098LF Female Garden Hose Connector, 1/4" OD x 3/4 (Pack of 10)

As for any tips on John guest, I try not to bend in too many harsh angles—if you need are short on space, use an adapter with an elbow on it so the tubing doesn’t bend going into the machine. Bends and warps mean leak if you have to forcefully bend it to make the connection.

Again, worth it to see what a plumber costs and if they can do it, but I hope this helps!

u/Chagrinnish · 2 pointsr/DIY

If you do not have a water hammer arrestor plumbed in near the washing machine you'll get more frequent failures like these. During normal operation of the machine, at the time when the machine is shutting off the water intake, that thumping noise you hear is an increase of water pressure that likes to blow out hoses or washers.

For around $20 you can get a small arrestor that would be plumbed in between the hose and your water line. If you keep getting problems... well, that's the fix.

u/2voc · 2 pointsr/GoRVing

Gotcha. A couple of "pointers" for you to consider: If you're 6'1" and your son is growing, make sure to check the bed size. Many trailer's beds aren't designed for taller folks and end up having to sleep diagonally. Silly as it sounds, buy a clear sewer hose fitting. (something like this, When you clear out your tanks, you can make sure it is flowing clear water out of your black tank. Budget for "other" camping items that you didn't use when you were car camping. Everything from 5 gallon water jugs, chocks, gas tanks, levelers are a start. Jumping to an RV involves more purchases than you will think of at first. If you're buying a used camper, make sure you have it professionally inspected. You'd be surprised what you can find out with an inspection. I'm at work so I'll try and add more if I can think of other tips for you!

u/KLIK0K0 · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

I had the same thing with my airbrush
I had to buy a thing that goes between your brush and compressor, I forgot what it's called tho lol
I'll try to look it up and I'll get back to you

Edit: I had to buy this thing Viair 90001 1/8" Female BSP - 1/4" Male NPT Adaptor - 2 Piece

But double check what size you need for your set up, because it might be different. There are also sets with like 8 different ones, so you can get one of those if you really want to.

u/ZombieGrot · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

AFAIK, the distinguishing characteristics of a current Mk10 nozzle are a 7x1mm thread and a 4mm bore. Performance 3D makes excellent nozzles and pretty much any generic brass Mk10 should work okay. There was an earlier rev nozzle that was for a 3mm OD x 2mm ID tubing and which had M6 threads. Only way to be sure is to measure but unless you have a fairly old FFC (e.g., laser cut case) it's probably the M7 & 4mm style.

For the PTFE tube, recommend buying a length of 4mm OD x 2mm ID PTFE tubing and cutting your own. Cheaper in the long run and you can cut it to the right length. When the PTFE tube is inserted inside the thermal barrier tube and nozzle there should be a narrow gap, about a fingernail's thickness, between the nozzle and tube. That ensures that the PTFE tube will fully seat once it's all assembled. One example of many.

u/Ruckusnusts · 2 pointsr/boats

Antifreeze in non potable lines/pipes. If you are docked and have AC electric service use heat tape. Also an incandescent light bulb of a decent wattage in the compartments where the lines are will most likely work. Heating a water tank is pretty easy. Remember you need to keep it a few degrees above freezing and it doesn't need to be hot. I've thought about using a few scraps of heat mat that is used under tile floors and throwing it on a tank.

u/visionque · 2 pointsr/vagabond

Here are some Reddits that may provide you with additional information.











Equip yourself with items that will keep you dry and warm in all kinds of weather.

You need water and a means to carry it, sterilize it and acquire it.

Be able to cook food and make hot drinks. You need to be able to acquire food using multiple options.

Free first aid training.

Free map and compass course.

Get in good physical condition.

u/Zooshooter · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

It's a hose bibb. You might try this bibb key

u/Legion1107 · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Add water hammer arresters on at your washer. Both hot and cold sides

u/calvarez · 2 pointsr/GoRVing

If it's not marked non-potable and doesn't have signs saying not to do that (some places have limited water), then yes. Just remember that other people may have done unsanitary things to the spigot, and recently I heard about a guy that found worms in one. I always run it first, look into it, then connect. A fill tube with a screen is a good idea also. I use this, and added a screen to it:


A water bandit will help you connect to arbitrary water sources that don't have a normal screw connection, such as faucets at fish cleaning stations:


u/that_software_dev · 2 pointsr/mazda3

Here's my best suggestion: Take your passenger seat out, run it in through the trunk tail first. A 3 definitely has the interior length to do it, and since you're going alone you don't need the passengers seat.

As for scratching it with straps: Buy some pipe insulation. It's closed-cell foam tubing that can wrap around the straps and deform around the car. Use it under the board and on the straps where they contact the body panels. This will work great if you're only doing a week, but is in no way a long term solution. Amazon:

u/zombieRide210 · 2 pointsr/PlumbingRepair

Are you putting the nut on followed by the Ferrell ring ( gold color ) then placing the stop valve all the way on before sliding the nut up to it and screwing on ?
If all else fails buy a shark bite push on stop and be done with it . ( I know this isn’t the plumbers way ... It works and is legal by code and would save op from a service call ) SharkBite 23036-0000LFA Angle Stop 1/4 Turn Valve, 1/2 inch x 3/8 inch, Compression Fitting, Water Valve Shut Off, Push-to-Connect, PEX, Copper, CPVC, PE-RT

u/usernametiger · 2 pointsr/Plumbing
u/andpassword · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

If you can verify that there's pressure behind those caps, i.e. that they're plumbed into the main system but sealed, then it will be very easy to finish. Any plumber could do it in 45 minutes max.

The drain too, just requires a fitting glued on to accept the chrome or plastic P-trap from the sink. That's even 10 minutes.

If you're wanting to get into this a little, go ahead and do this:

Buy a drain trap, and a suitable adapter for your drain pipe (probably 1.5" PVC, but possibly 2". Can't tell from the photo. Measure the outside, and tell the home labyrinth attendant, he'll get you the right one.). That'll get your drain attached, as long as there's one in the sink. If not, you need a sink drain to attach to as well.

Then get yourself this sink kit. This is what lets you connect your hot and cold supply lines to the faucet. No soldering required, just a clean end, push on, and you're done.

If you want to be sure this is hooked up right: turn off the water to the whole house and relieve pressure by turning on a faucet that runs. Make sure no other faucets run at all. Take a hacksaw and cut off the cap, staying as square as you can. Have a bucket ready, and have someone else SLOWLY turn on the water. If you get water out of both pipes, you're golden, and you're ready to proceed with the sink kit above. If not, slap a couple of these end caps back on the pipes and call a needs more work.

u/sticky-bit · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

Can you give us a scenario of when you would use this? I didn't think finding a faucet outside with threads was particularly hard. Finding one without threads seems hard, but I know of one.

Probably right up your alley but please ask permission from someone first, (except in an emergency.) No one cares if you fill a water jug, they require a key for the outside outlets because they don't want some jerk to come along and just leave the water running.

u/Devchonachko · 2 pointsr/preppers

Sorry the terminology is mixed up on my end. I had been on a motorcycle board and was thinking about something else. I meant a sillcock key. I was in a fog of antibiotics and codeine when I replied. :)

Check out this video on why it's helpful. It's a great addition to your filter, especially if you're in any kind of urban area. Once you start looking for these kind of water sources, they are all over

u/skwolf522 · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Go buy sharkbite caps. After demo you can slap those on the pipe and turn the water back on the rest of the house.

SharkBite 1/2-Inch End Cap, Push-to-Connect, PEX, Copper, CPVC

u/Tacsweb · 2 pointsr/DIY

A search on Amazon turned up one result

This should do the job for you easily.

u/rb405 · 2 pointsr/DIY

Obviously it is a little late now, but with these backflow preventers, you will want to "winterize" them in the fall/winter. Each model is different, but with mine, I remove all the internals and drain what water I can in there. After that, I use heat tape ( and wrap the pipes with it. The manufacturer suggests blowing all the water out of the lines with an air compressor, but I have never done it. I keep it covered with an trash can (it's in the side yard not visible to anyone who isn't going over to that side for a reason), but you can also use one of those fake rocks (

Anyways, for your current issue, I would google the model # and look for repair kits. For my model, you can buy that plastic cap and the internals. Replacing it was a breeze, but it may be different for your model.

I know many lawn / sprinkler service companies would love to have the privilege to come winterize your system and then prepare it in the spring, but it isn't an awful task at all.

Good luck..

u/distantreplay · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement
u/kaukev · 2 pointsr/Construction

Sounds like hammering. It's not usually a big deal - just a nuisance. But, obviously, if the hammering is violent enough, it can break the pipe at the solder or even split the pipe.

The first bang and the lower bangs sounds exactly like hammering though. The first bang is the initial "heave" caused by the sudden stop of water and the other smaller ones are just the pipe continuing to oscillate for a few seconds.

Like I said before, have someone flush a toilet from your side and see if that does it on their side. If that's the case, you can buy one of these:

Really easy to install and should help. can manually lower the water pressure in your house by turning down the valve just after the water meter (not recommended as a long term solution).

u/sillycyco · 2 pointsr/firewater

> Ahh okay yes that makes sense, what do you usually use for insulation?

Foam pipe insulation works well, or a few wraps with Reflectix works well. Reflectix also looks really nice, taped up with foil HVAC tape.

u/samsqanch5 · 2 pointsr/preppers

Jones Stephens J40-005 Four Way Key

He's referring to these. The hose bib valves outside commercial buildings don't have handles to keep people from stealing water. You'll need one to get water to your filter.

u/NPC3 · 2 pointsr/Plumbing
u/nothingoldcnstay · 2 pointsr/DIY

Find a pvc flange, cut it as needed to fit, seal with epoxy. Couldn't be any worse than before.

Oatey 43539 PVC Cast Iron Flange Replacement, 4-Inch

u/n0esc · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Other answers are correct. Cheaper options on Amazon esp if you have prime

u/andrewse · 2 pointsr/GoRVing

Around here the spigots are mostly threaded though I did buy one of these just in case.

u/skeight · 2 pointsr/Winnipeg

I had to do this to all the lines in my house when I bought it. Replaced everything with pex lines with a snazzy manifold to equalize pressure. Did it myself and spent about $600-700.

This is the manifold I bought.

Your intake line problem sounds kinda different but thought I would share anyway. Good luck!

u/Osiris62 · 1 pointr/Cello

How about one of these? Recommended by one of my teachers, and other teachers who have seen it have not objected.

When I use one, it allows me to have a firm hold on the bow without having to grip hard. You can also buy plain rubber tubing that is sold as a cello grip, but I like that this is contoured.

u/Yarrvee · 1 pointr/GoRVing

When I was in Colorado last winter (where we had a storm that brought some days with a HIGH of 15, and a low of -25) I used:

Fresh water line

Heat tape

Self-adhesive water pipe insulation

40* Auto-on electric doodad with three outlets.

  • Plug the Heat Tape into the outlet inside the wet bay - run an extension to the wet bay if you don't already have power there.
  • Put the heat tape inside the foam insulation with the fresh water hose with the heat tape away from the split as much as possible. Optionally, you can wrap the hose and tape with aluminum foil as a heat conductor. Seal with the split with duct tape. I found the factory stick on the insulation to be not enough to reliably hold.
  • Wrap the excess heat tape around the pedestal to keep it from freezing.
  • Cover with a bucket, weigh with a brick.

    Water Bay

    Inexpensive Hanging Trouble Light

    Generous supply of lightbulbs.

  • Put a 75-100 watt bulb in the light.
  • Plug the light into the thermocouple outlet.
  • Turn the light on and hang it someplace.
  • Check it periodically to make sure the bulb still works. I went through 4 bulbs in a month.

    This is harder. They do make heated tank pads, but unless you're invested long-term in your current RV, AND in staying in colder climates? Enh.
    The best inexpensive solution I've seen is one that you can take advantage of right now, if you can find them in the store still - probably on clearance.

    See if you can find a couple long strings of incandescent C7 or C9-style christmas lights. Plug 'em in on a timer or another thermocouple outlet and arrange them on the ground underneath where your tanks are. Once you put up the foam board, the heat from the lights should keep the underbelly above freezing...
u/NoradZero · 1 pointr/minipainting

Yeah i have heard of this. I am from Canada so i don't think i can order it. I tried to get everything i needed this week since i have the whole week free. Would the badger one do the job like this one ?

Yeah this would probably require an adapter like this one basically.. it look like a lots like the badger spray gun.

u/CatsAreTasty · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

You can pull that flange off and replace it with one of these. When you remove the old flange, patch the hole by inserting two pieces of 2x4 through the hole, deck screw them from above and then screw a piece of plywood to the 2x4s. Push the new flange into the pipe and secure it with screws to the plywood patch.

u/thirstyross · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

$150 bux on amazon, I used a Manabloc, the only thing I didn't like was that I had to use crimp connections instead of ProPEX like the rest of my plumbing, but that's a minor complaint I guess.

u/SufficientEngineer · 1 pointr/CR10

Well depends I found this one fairly cheap on amazon and you can cut to length.
Amazon Link
I never really had to buy one but I’ve done research seeing if there were better alternatives but they all seem the same to me.

About your clog problem though instead of seeing if it’s a physical issue see if your retraction settings are maybe either too slow, too fast, or the distances are skewed and the optimal retraction is not happening.

u/Anyeurysm · 1 pointr/Plumbing

I'm gonna cut the 90 at the wall, then ream out (using bit in link below) the cut off that's inside the rear 90 and put a new trap in.

u/TypedSlowly5 · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I put these on the back of my washer. No more banging when the water valves close.

u/grue19 · 1 pointr/CR10

boy that's really something. these are the same type of "kits" you'd find at a local hardware store. i just ordered a kit with m3-m4-m5 nuts bolts and washers, then another kit with m3-m4-m5 hammer nuts! plus, i got some rubber sheets in case i want to use them to cut to size for things like the stock part cooling fan, the y-axis brace where it touches the frame, and even the new squash ball feet i just mounted this morning! i'm not sure if the lengths all match up to what i want, but i suppose i could just find some longer/shorter if need be.

u/ORlarpandnerf · 1 pointr/Nerf
u/i_make_song · 1 pointr/synthesizers

It's literally raw balsa wood.

That's the rubber sheets I use. I cut it into little pads that rest along the lid. It's really nothing fancy and looks pretty ratchet. I would post pics but I am out of the country for a few months.

The reason I use balsa wood is it's light and cheap. I used to use sheets but I didn't like the weight they put on knobs, sliders, etc.

u/zapfastnet · 1 pointr/canoeing

I made my canoe roof ready ( and much quieter in the water when I rest my kayak paddle) by gluing Pipe foam insulation from the hardware store onto the length of the canoes rim. It usually needs replacement once a year.

Another thing i did to facilitate tying the canoe to the car was to install small wire loops on the structural beams of the underside of my Hyundai front and back. I had fixed length ropes on the rear of the canoe with large clips on them that would clip to those loops, leaving only two tie downs with truckers knots on the front. I also usually used two ratchet straps through the open rear doors at the mdsection of the canoe also. ( don't cinch them too tight!)

u/GutchSeeker · 1 pointr/GoRVing

> I used mine last weekend, since it was the first time I've been to a place that had a dump station that still had the end on the hose.

The spigot where the water comes out hook up to? This gizmo is awesome for those situations.

u/EskimoTho · 1 pointr/modelmakers

Yup, I had to buy that coupling for the compressor

u/ricardo_feynman · 1 pointr/Plumbing

It appears they make all kinds of adapters. You'll need to check to make sure you're meeting connection requirements for whatever fluid/gas is traveling in those lines though.

u/thax · 1 pointr/videos

Pretty stupid of the show as homeowners do employ surge protectors for water to protect possessions. I have personally purchased and installed a few of these on my old house which is on a well with waterhammer, and most home have them on the washing machine outlets.

u/DiazDragCostuming · 1 pointr/DIY

Compression stops are only for copper pipe, I've seen them done of CPVC pipe but it's not advised.

What is the type pipe coming out the wall? It looks black, but black iron pipe is for gas lines, not water service.

Edit: looks like it could be a sweat on stop onto copper pipe, you can cut it off and sand the fresh cut end smooth and pop on a Sharkbite stop- they attach onto PEX, CPVC, or Copper with ease:

u/shortyjacobs · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

There are a ton of ways to do this. I just bought a system off of amazon, (ispring water RCC7). Super easy install. Comes with a valve that goes in between the faucet and the shutoff valve under the sink. No permenant modification needed. SHut off the water to the faucet, unscrew the tube going to the faucet, install the diverter valve, turn water back on.

Don't want a RO faucet on the counter? Get a 1/4" shutoff valve, 5 bucks on amazon. Don't wan to drill into the drain? Run the drain line up and just fix it to the edge of the sink with tape or putty or hot glue or something. It won't be super pretty, but it'll work great, and be completely removable and movable in about 20 min.

RO Unit: ~$190 USD

shutoff valve (in lieu of a counter-mounted faucet)

u/boyrahett · 1 pointr/Plumbing

That is a coupling glued to a piece of pipe that is glued into a fitting.

Buy inside pipe cutter like this.

Take your time with this tool in a cordless drill, clean the chips out frequently to prevent them from falling down inside the pipe. Once you get the socket of the fitting ready to receive pipe glue in a new piece of pipe and trap adapter.

u/apleima2 · 1 pointr/watercooling

You can try to cut some rubber pieces to place between the bracket and case to provide vibration isolation. Pretty cheap to get a small sheet on amazon and give a try.

u/millerz1897 · 1 pointr/Plumbing

Thanks for the reply. The reason for my question was the first user amd multiple other comments [here.] ( Does it make sense?

"When you mount this device, mount it directly on the back of the washing machine. This way the cylinder is aligned with the momentum of the water column that needs to be slowed. If you mount it instead at the other end of the washing machine hoses, this is not aligned and the performance will be significantly less effective. When properly mounted, these are GREAT!!!"

u/trekkerscout · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Entering two cables into a pancake box will violate box fill. However, if the light fixture canopy has a box fill rating, the canopy can be used for box fill calculations. An alternative would be to use a saddle box like this:

u/Drakonsword · 1 pointr/CrappyDesign
u/Adrianthefailure · 1 pointr/Wishlist

5.55 Free shipping in my Misc Wishlist its a Jones Stephens J40-005 Four Way Key

u/pittsburghtech · 1 pointr/IAmA

I have a pittsburgh toilet in the basement. The cast iron flange cracked (may or may not have been my fault). I chipped out the old flange and got a Repair Flange and a 4" no hub. The no hub was needed because a cast iron 90 comes directly to the floor line, so there is a hub there. Now I ordered two different no hubs, and they both fit, however, there is absolutely NO way the PVC pipe was going to fit in the no hub inside that 90 hub. So, I ended up just using the Repair Flange and expanding the rubber to meet the no hub, without the PVC pipe. Do you find any issues with this?


u/Robertusa123 · 0 pointsr/Plumbing

That a real cheep all in one valve and supply house. I would cut it off and replace with a shark bite push-on valve. Don't forget to turn off the water to the house.

u/JackDark · 0 pointsr/FlashForge

No problem! A clarification to what u/Seppi449 said; I'm assuming they're actually talking about a hardened steel nozzle. This will allow the students to print with exotic filaments (wood fill, metal fill, glow in the dark, etc) without it damaging the soft brass nozzle. This upgrade is pretty cheap, and it will prevent constant replacements.

I personally would not recommend upgrading to an all metal hotend assembly. The uses for that are pretty small and they can cause a lot more issues for novice users, which I'm guessing many of the students are. When you get a new nozzle, make sure it doesn't specify it's for an all metal hotend. They are different and are not compatible.

You probably ought to also grab a bit of 2mm ID x 4mm OD teflon tubing. You need to replace the little bit of teflon tubing inside the hot end assembly periodically to help prevent jams and keep your printing smooth. The replacement piece is only about 1" long, so a roll like that will last forever. When you replace the existing tube, you want to make sure to keep the length as close to the original as possible, and keep your cuts 90º.

I hope this helps!