Best rv water heaters & parts according to redditors

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FYI - cheap water heater elements make great high-power load resistors.

Though these things aren't "lab" parts, they can be useful, and cheap for hobbyist use. They are fairly easy to find locally, and obviously easy to find on the internet.

• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006IX89Q/
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006IX89G/
  
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The temperature probe is in the main column inserted down from the end cap. It sits directly in the vapor path at the 90 degree turn.

The PID controller has an auto-learn feature; after one setup session (where it bounced the temperature all over the place and recorded data) it can hold the steam temperature incredibly steady at just about any temperature.

Parts:

• PID Controller
  
• Solid-state relay
  
• Heat element (220v AC)
  
• PT100 Temperature sensor
  
• Power cord
  
• "Over temperature warning" buzzer (not hooked up yet)
  

I've got a compact RIMS machine that I built into a 19" toolbox. It's roughly the same idea as the one you linked, but all packaged up a bit tidier. I wrote a post about it a while back. Lemme find it.

Found it. Not everything necessarily relevant, but it's got a few details that helped some other folks.

> For something like a RIMS where you mostly just need to hold temperature, 110v is plenty. It's actually useful. The element is just a big resistor it doesn't really know or care what voltage runs through it. When you step down voltage by half, you actually quarter the power output (through the combination of Joule's and Ohm's laws, P=V^2 / R ). That means you can use low density elements intended for 220v operation and run them at quarter power on 110v and get super low watt densities.
>
> It's the wattage and how you distribute that through your wort that are the important parts. You want low density because you want to spread the heat out in your wort as much as possible. Higher wattage and higher density can lead to boiling and/or scorching in your tube. /u/GrizzlyBearKolsch had this problem with his setup. Luckily, his PID controller allowed him to adjust the timing enough to overcome it. I use a 220v, low-density, 4500W element, but I run it at 110v for about 1100W. It takes about half an hour to heat my strike and it fires for about half a second once every few seconds to maintain temperature. It's powerful enough to do the job, but gentle enough that it doesn't burn anything when running flat out.
>
> There are a couple of regular recommendations for PID controllers. Auber makes a well-built, well-documented model that basically the go-to for this kind of thing. If you want to spend a bit less and you're willing to put up with some really badly translated Chinese instructions, the Mypin TA4 also gets a decent amount of use.
>
> I'd recommend silicone tube for just about anything. Either three-eighths or half-inch depending on your preference. It's highly heat resistant, maintains its shape, and it's clear enough to see wort in it.
>
> Chugger or March are the perennial recommendations for pumps, but kind of overkill. I use a 12v DC solar pump for my setup. I've used this style for other builds and it has also worked pretty well. These lower power pumps are a decent fit for this kind of setup because they're compact and they're adequate flow but not so high that you need to bother throttling them.
>
> I use a separate heat stick for my boil kettle because my apartment stove can't quite boil 6+ gallons comfortably. It's a dead simple 1400W element hooked up through some drainage pipe. Just plug it in and it gets hot. Same as any other build you see on the Internet.

you want an ultra low watt density element [https://www.amazon.ca/Camco-02963-Screw-Ripple-Element/dp/B000BPG4LI], not a high density one. that's why you're getting all that scorch on there.

Look into updating the plumbing to PEX (white /red) if possible. It's a nightmare to go behind all the fixtures, but PVC (grey pipes) gets old and if it cracks it's a major problem.

Also roof and window seals, another bane of the old RVs. Make sure they're all good, or redo them. Leaks like that, aside from mold, tend to swell anything water comes in contact with.

Fridge, furnace and water heater - clean everything as best as you can. Burners especially. For the water heater - flush it good a couple times and replace the drain plug with a zinc anode to extend its life. Upgrade them all as soon as you have the means to.

Amazon also has propane and CO detectors. Make sure they're up to date, and put at least a 50w solar trickle charge panel on the roof for your house battery, as the propane detector has the nasty habit of draining it.

Finally, I'd look into upgrading whatever furniture you can. Mostly the folding couch if there is one. Motorhomes like this are / were designed for seasonal living in, and everything inside isn't designed for full time occupancy. Add the fact that it's a moving vehicle and thus subjected to vibrations and flexing. Last thing you want is your stuff to come apart while you expect it less.

Source: I'm on my 4th RV and been through all the crap I'm telling you about 😁

You'll need one or more Heating Elements inside your keg. The one I linked to is for water heaters. You need a 240V hookup, too. If you don't have one, these elements will work on 120V, but you're going to need more of them unless you want to wait an hour to get 5 gallons of water to boil.

You'll control these elements with a PID controller and one relay per heating element. The PID controller I linked comes with one good solid state relay that's capable of switching 240v. The PID controller also supplies you with the temp probe you need to put into the kettle somehow.

In addition to this, you'll need some various connectors, and probably an electrical box. I'd say budget a couple hundred bucks for odds and ends.

Finally, when messing with 240v... or even 120v, you really should get a real electrician to look over your connections before you apply power to it. A: to keep you safer, and B: to keep your investment safer.

These work very well wired to use the original switch connection. Toggle switches and full time cobbled up bullshit is always a bad idea.

You might just need a real radiator if yours is plastic.

Some models wire differently than others, knowing your year would help.

If you do end up tankless and I would only ever recommend a gas fired one, because houses are rarely wired to handle the additional load. Be sure to get some sort of drain pan like this: https://www.amazon.com/Camco-11470-Tankless-Heater-Fitting/dp/B0060HOUJO

Unless its in a garage and it just doesn't matter if it leaks (and it will)

30 Gallons is going to take a crap ton of power/time... 15 gallons may even be pushing it.

This is the popular element used in e-brewing setups, but for 15+ gallons you would probably need more than one.

I'm BIAB, so that helps cut down on the space and equipment, but I'm looking at adding [240V Heating Element] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPG4LI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1), Inkbird Controller, and [a basket to make raising the grains a bit easier to manage] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VXKJJI/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER). Which doesn't seem like too much of an investment to make my brewday a LOT shorter, and a bit easier.


edit: [alternative inkbird controller] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KJZMWSI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1RUFFFCQ74BCW&psc=1). This is the one i am currently considering, but i don't know the real differences.

Or mount of one of these in the vessel:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000701HEQ/

Here you go. You'll find tons of similar stuff on this page. Not sure of the material of that specific one though, stainless would be best.

I recently installed an element in my kettle. I ordered the following element, locknut, and o-ring from Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003GXF5EO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWPNI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPG4LI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My heating elements are camco: https://www.amazon.com/Camco-02963-Screw-Ripple-Element/dp/B000BPG4LI

If you can follow directions, you can build a very simple control box by yourself.

Herm coils are easy to make, too, in case you change your mind.

On top of the boiloff rate you will probably scorch the hell out of the wort with that element. The 6500 watts look to be spread over too little surface area. I've used a 4500w element that looks to be of similar size and my beer tasted like burnt porridge.

May I recommend the tried and tested 5500w camco ripple element?

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-02963-14-Inch-Ripple-Element/dp/B000BPG4LI

You're gonna need some sort of controller to tune it down when you're boiling. I Use 60% to maintain a good boil in 50l boils. Here's my system: http://brew.is/blog/2011/10/20-gallon-boil-kettle-electric-biab-kettle/ . I haven't written up something about the controller, but I'm using an auber instruments 2362 PID controller. It's used to control the mash temperature and the boil.

I should clarify because I seemed to have misunderstood what a sanke is. I don't want to use a keg for a few reasons and I can't easily get one so I doubt I will. I want to use a large stockpot, 5-7 gallons, but am new to this hobby so still concerned about safety.

Is the process of installing an electric heating element as simple as soldering a flange with interior threads that a heating element like this can screw into? Would a soldered seal be enough for the pressure of a boiling liquid overtop of the seal? What safety risks do I then run? Should I unscrew the heating element after each run to clean?

Neat idea. Would you perhaps be looking at something like this?

Facon 3" x 8" Elbow Pipe Heater Pad, Work for 1-1/2" Elbow Pipe on RV, Camper, Travel Trailer, 13.5V DC(Pack of 3) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUC7XI5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_V88RDbGFHW55X

Not sure if the voltage is picky or not with this item, but I've used a buck converter for a project to dial in voltage.

Sure, it's pretty much the standard these days:

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-02963-Screw-In-Ripple-Element/dp/B000BPG4LI

The electric heating elements are Ultra low power density (50W per sq. inch), so no single point on the heating element will get hot enough to carmelize the wort.

I had the same question when we were debating whether to go electric or not, but after some research I found that electric brewers don't ever seem to run into that issue. It is more Internet folklore than anything.

These are the elements we will be using: http://www.amazon.com/Camco-02963-14-Inch-Ripple-Element/dp/B000BPG4LI

I don't think it is a good idea for the element to touch the glass-covered steel on the opposite side. I've used fold-back incoloy ULWD elements in narrow tallboy 50 gallon water heaters. They work great and have lasted a long time.

I recently started looking at what I'd need to convert to electric and it looks very doable for around $100. You can get one of these and a heating element like this. Since you already have the 240V hookup for your dryer, it should be pretty easy to set up.

I haven't actually done this yet, but a coworker uses this setup and he likes it a lot.

sure. which parts do you need more detail on?

so take an SCR controller. this one is nice as it has the digital display. that saves you with the bother of an ammeter or voltmeter. this will leave you with a dial control for increasing or decreasing power to your unit.

220 from your wall goes into the SCR. if you want it cheap get the power cord off of a craigslist (etc) free stove or dryer.

power out goes to your hot water tank element. they say that ultra low watt density is best. but low watt fold back ones are usually fine too.

your element screws into one of these . they are available from a number of suppliers.

to prepare the keggle, simply remove the spear, and then cut what is normally the bottom of the keg off (its quietest if you do this with the keg full. you might be able to find a disk to seal the ferrule up with, or even fill with water and then reinstall the spear, and do it upside down) now the sanke flange can be used as a 2" tri clamp ferrule. buy yourself a 2" TC clamp and gaskets

you'll need legs or a stand for the keggle. I'm sure you can figure that out.

now as that is you'll see that your hwt element sticks up the center of the keg from the bottom to about the middle of the keg. so. if you got yourself some 2" copper pipe - the same length as your element and hammer on an easy flange. for that basically you take a ballpeen hammer and work the ends down so that they are flat and 90° to the rest of the pipe. if that's a little thin for the TC clamp to attach to, you can put a hose clamp on it, and melt some solder in to beef it up. file it to shape and for smoothness. even better is if you can add a tee with at least a 1/2" but maybe as much as a 1" connection and then you get a bottom drain as well.

If you remove them and try to clean them you might not need to replace them. But if they're too far gone or you don't want to mess with them and just replace instead. This http://www.amazon.com/Camco-02923-Heater-Element-Foldback/dp/B0002YUDSI This should fit your heater. You will have to check for compatibility. I would go to a plumbing supply house with the model info of the heater and purchase them off the shelf. They'll take them back if they don't fit.

HD is ok too but it's more of a hassle if they don't have the right part. You'd have to go to a plumbing supply anyway.

I know a lot of people prefer ones that have more surface area so there is no scorching. look at

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-02963-Screw-In-Ripple-Element/dp/B000BPG4LI/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_y