Best sewing machine parts according to redditors

Thanks. I knew those clamps were used for a non-kinky purpose, but didn't know what it was. In fact, every type of nipple clamp I've ever seen was originally used for non-kinky purposes. Such as:

Clover Clamp - Used for sewing.

Tweezer Clamp - Used to pull draw strings and elastic through hems.

Screw Compressor Clamp - Used to pinch tubing in lab equipment to control fluid flow.

All of the above clamps have been re-purposed by kinky people for kinky activities.

I think the belts are just plain leather strips that you cut to the correct size, I've come across these while searching for regular belts on amazon. If you try and get it going be sure to oil it, all the oil will have evaporated over the years.

Similar to this? LNKA 5pieces Brand New Sewing Machine Screwdriver Home Sewing Machine Repairing Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K7QMQ7T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_27P6Cb11GTZ1M

Worth anything? Does it work? Try Google or Amazon for cables/pedal .. https://www.amazon.com/Controller-Power-Singer-Sewing-Machine/dp/B002L2Z73A/ref=asc_df_B002L2Z73A/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198082367034&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7144151286316011257&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9026326&hvtargid=aud-829758849484:pla-348845413899&psc=1

Yep they're pretty [cheap] (https://www.amazon.com/Singer-R-Ruffler-Foot/dp/B002XNLL32), just be sure to get the correct shank to fit your machine.

I think this is it.

The machine will function without the slide plate, but it'll be pretty inconvenient. You should be able to get a new one at almost any sewing machine repair shop, or even check ebay. In fact, here's one from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Sewing-Machine-Slide-Plate-163477/dp/B0044XYQ7C

Totally! I’ll never go back to clutch motors, I loathe them.

https://www.amazon.com/INDUSTRIAL-SEWING-MACHINE-SERVO-MOTOR/dp/B001VK9YH8

Be aware that if you try to reduce the speed of a 14500 rpm motor by just the voltage, but have a high torque load, you could burn it out. DC motors don't love rotating very slow as each of the commutator bars has time to heat up excessively when it's conducting.

I guess I don't understand whether you mean a drill that is capable of turning screws etc, or whether you mean something more like a Dremel tool. Using a motor for a Dremel tool application without gears is fine. Using a motor for a real drill without gearing just won't work.

Anyway, if you were confident in your hardware hacking abilities, what I would suggest is that you make the power supply adjustable. I've done this with exactly that type of supply to run LED lamps by hacking the supply to a 6-12V adjustment range.

This does require some skill. Basically what you do is you find the resistor pair in the supply that sets the output voltage and you wire a potentiometer across the resistor that is connected to the positive supply output.

I could try to walk you through if you had pictures of the PCB. But it's actually a bit difficult to get those supplies open in the first place, without breaking them. You do need to have some confidence in your soldering abilities.

I think you should buy a PWM controller.

However there are a couple of other fun ways to approach this (fun, not necessarily practical). Note that I have not done all of these, these are just suggestions that you could experiment with.

The first idea is inspired by these sewing machine speed control pedals. They use an amazingly primitive method of regulating the current to the motor. Basically there is a stack of carbon "pencils" (really disks of graphite) that are compressed between two electrodes when you press the pedal. This site explains pretty well in the second section of the article.

You can see that if you could find a block of ceramic with a hole in it, and get some carbon rods from carbon zinc batteries, you could make something like this yourself (FYI you need to heat the carbon rods up to several hundred C to burn off the crap from the batteries). It's basically just a super simple (and not very precise) rheostat. You would use about 1/6th the number of disks, because your voltage is about 6x lower than these are meant for. Obviously this will get really hot in operation, that's why it's normally made of ceramic.

Heck if you can obtain one of these sewing machine control pedals, you could simply remove most of the disks and replace them with a metal cylinder of the same length. I think that would work. I believe these pedals are pretty universally available. But be careful to look inside and buy the one with the ceramic block, since more modern ones use AC dimmer controls and won't work. Presumably that old-school stamped steel construction is a good indicator of the guts. Mine looks exactly like the picture in the first link. Heck and the second link looks exactly like the first link too.

The second idea is to actually make a voltage divider, but using incandescent lamps. The thing is, normally a voltage divider is completely impractical for high powers. But incandescent lamps are capable of dissipating very large power without a whole lot of hassle. They also have some other properties that make them useful for regulating current but which aren't very useful for you (positive temperature coefficient of resistance (PTC), if you are interested). I've used lamps for high power resistors extensively. For your application it's desirable to use a higher voltage lamp, because this will behave as a more ideal resistor. Below about 1/5th of their rated voltage they are quite normal as resistors, only above that does the PTC property kick in significantly. So for instance you could use a pair of 100W/120V (or 200W/240V) incandescent lamps as resistors. They have about 10 ohms or so (20 ohms for the 240V ones) of resistance when cold (remember, PTC effect: so ohms law doesn't really tell the whole story since R changes). So a divider made of two of them will supply 10V with 5 ohms or so of output resistance, which is a 2A short circuit current and 10V nominal output. Of course you can play around with different number or wattages of lamps on the top and bottom of the divider to get the effect you want. It's going to be bulky, but it will work.

Edit: I should say that 120V lamps are really quite a lot better for this than 240V lamps. 240V lamps just have quite high resistance unless you go to really high wattages.

I was wrong, it's part of the "needle plate". You replace the whole plate (amazon link) but I'm not sure on just that piece of it.

Speaking from experience I'd look into a used industrial walking foot machine. It will handle everything you want to sew and then some and you can usually get them for $500-800. It will last your entire life if you keep it oiled and clean.

You can try a lesser machine but you'll be disappointed in any home machine if you want to sew lots of thick stuff. I do highly recommend a vintage European machine, or vintage singer as a suplimentary machine and for general use on other fabrics tho. You can usually find them for less than $100.


Source: I sew a lot of really heavy raw denim...with thick leather patches. I've made 32oz jeans on my walking foot machine, I've done 2 leather motorcycle seats with it...it will sew thru anything. It's my main machine for my denim

Edit: you can even find new walking foot machines for less than $1000.

If you want to stay even cheaper take a look at the rex zigzag walking foot machine

...it's like $350. I've taken a look in person and this machine is a mini industrial, all metal workhorse. These are designed for sailmakers and boat upholsterers so it is a portable industrial they can take to the boat and use. It only has a smaller motor, but you could upgrade that later for $100 if you want. You may have to tune it out if the box tho, the price you pay for low price. Once tuned(if needed) it should do very nicely. If I didn't already have a walking foot machine I'd probably take a chance on this one...especially with Amazon primes return policy.

Here’s a link to the item.

Sewing machine bobbin winder wheel https://www.amazon.com/SINGER-B-W-W-R-NEW-BOBBIN-WINDER-RUBBER/dp/B077BP37BG

Maybe the other thing is to help you replace it?

I'm so sorry! I love my juki. I wonder if this might help? Juki Reverse Pedal Stopper for TL, HZL-F and DX Series Machines https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B06ZZNGRYW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7fhBDbWWDM45M

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008MNY7M4?pc_redir=1405235170&robot_redir=1


Sorry for the link. On mobile. There are YouTube videos showing how to use it.

I replaced many controllers. Even today I wired new to the 401. Literally everything will work, any brands, including the new electronics controllers (preferable). The only difference is the connectors. I usually use these, or one like these with singers:

https://www.amazon.ca/Singer-Sewing-Machine-Pedal-979314-031/dp/B008MM5CG0

Those are generic electronic chinese ones. If you can wire the cable and don't care for connectors then it can literally be used in any machine. But on ebay or aliexpress you can find these with the connector already in place for your exact model.

Sometimes (actually more often than not) the connectors are fully sealed and can't be rewired so it is usually the cheapest to get whole new modern controller with the cable for the exact model. In worse case you can cut the wire close to the old sealed connector and use soldering and proper heat shrink tubing to attach new wire to the old wire - but it require a bit of professionalism to do it safely. I did it like that today for the 401 because I had one electronic controller on hand and the old wire was decent, but it isn't something I personally like to do very much. The old cables are better in garbage than on machine. The isolation has microfractures ... an unlucky coffee spill over old the cable may cause a shock. And the copper wire inside is oxidized and may cause the cable to overheat if the joint is not right or has some resistance due to oxidization....

I sometimes use the new-ish (1970 onwards) controllers from other broken machines if they are in good shape. They are often bit more substantial than the modern electronic replacements. The electronic are quite light and travel around under the table, but otherwise offer better speed control than the carbon disk mechanical ones.

Never use metal ones. In fact for singer the metal are pre-1950 and generally considered be gone by now. Not a good idea to wire one. Old controllers are a fire hazard and with metal ones a shock hazard. Especially if you are in Europe on 220V.

I put servo motors on both my industrial machines, the work takes only an hour and is well worth it. One can dial in a very precise speed on the motor and then lock it down-so if you want to sew at say 300 spm you can do it. The other thing (and it's a big one in my opinion) is that the servo motors are much quieter than a clutch motor. Clutch motors are noisy as hell, and I already have a significant hearing loss.

/edit-used these if you're interested. They work fine.

I highly recommend installing a servo motor. https://www.amazon.com/INDUSTRIAL-SEWING-MACHINE-SERVO-MOTOR/dp/B001VK9YH8

You can dial down the speed and make it easier to use. Careful adjustment of the pedal on the industrial machines are one of the advantages. You can change the pedal action based on what the machine is used for. For example, my binder is set up as mostly an on/off, because all the positioning is done before I start and I run long lines. My 20U and straight stitch is set up for fine work with long engagement.

Of course, the servo motor fixes all that-just change the speed. No vibration, no power use when not sewing, and it's quiet.