(Part 2) Best steering & suspension tools according to redditors

I am amazed you can get such a tool anywhere near $200.

This is what my local shop has.

Assuming you're talking about square taper, my favourite way is to use what I call the pickle fork. Remove the crank bolts first! Slide it behind the crank arm and smack it with a 4lb sledge hammer. I wouldn't use this method on a crankarm I wanted to save but it doesn't always damage the crankarm. I find it best to the bike upside down on the ground, keeps the hammer away from the rest of the frame.

I use this tool

https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W83022-Joint-Separator/dp/B002KS17N4#

https://www.amazon.com/Mayhew-29910-Speedy-Universal-Inner/dp/B005I5GLCS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=mayhew+tie+rod+tool&qid=1563643337&s=gateway&sprefix=mayhew+ti&sr=8-3

For anyone that works at a shop and will use it for commercial use.

i replaced mine at 170k miles after a money shift. saw no signs of wear, but it made me sleep better at night knowing they were replaced. i used one of these tools to make the job easy.

https://www.amazon.com/Honda-S2000-Spring-Compressor-engines/dp/B00J144A66

It's pretty much a c-clamp with additional parts for proper clearances of everything. Like this. There are different kits of varying quality and number of parts to fit different vehicles.

*linked tool is for reference and not necessarily exactly what you need.

Having had a VW of that vintage, straight cash is best.

In all seriousness, this is useful in a couple of ways, other wise a gift card or something from the VW (Jbugs and the like) catalogs would be awesome, since it's unclear what the van will need.

[Ebay - Sunex 2 - 9/64 ball joint socket - $16.97 +$4.95 shipping]
(http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sunex-10214-3-4-Dr-2-9-64-Ball-Joint-Impact-Socket-/390904357769?hash=item5b03b72389&item=390904357769&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&vxp=mtr)

[Amazon - $21.68 + possible free shipping if you don't like Ebay] (http://www.amazon.com/Sunex-10214-64-Inch-Joint-Socket/dp/B003EZZUNU/)

It took me longer to type this than it did to find them. Google is your friend.

Thanks for the quick reply, I have no problem removing the knuckle as I've done it before on a previous accord of mine. As far as labor goes, that's pretty damn cheap. The lowest I found was 270 at pep boys (ugh). I'll have to call the local Honda dealer, somehow I haven't done that yet. A few shops refuse customer brought parts as well.

If I'm unable to find an affordable place to have it done, do you think this kit would work? It says up to 2008, but looking at the knuckle diagram and mine, I'm not sure what's changed between then and 2010.

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6529-5-Ball-Joint-Adapter/dp/B003E0RJBQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1421108120&sr=1-1&keywords=otc+honda+adapter&pebp=1421108127398&peasin=B003E0RJBQ#productDetails

If your worried about how beat they are I would check fo physical damage on the shock body and threads, then make sure the rod is straight and doesn't have any nicks in the metal. Nicks in the rod will tear seals that hold the oil in. check for oil leaks. The fluid in the shock should be good for years. But new oil does bring back a little bit of plushness. If they are leaking I would obviously change oil. If there not leaking I would run then. Lastly you can check for spring sag by finding out the original spring height and measuring. If all of those things are fine I'd just run them the way that they are until you have a failure. I've seen some abused Tein's hold up very well on Drift Missiles for a long time.

If you want them to last longer don't run them lowered all the way. They take way more of a beating that way.

Also You can get Tein Spanners on amazon for $30. https://www.amazon.com/Tein-Adjustable-Wrench-Coilover-Systems/dp/B002ZP0QFM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526927163&sr=8-1&keywords=tein+spanner+wrench

That way you don't have to worry if they are a different size or not.

Last question so whats the Year Make and Model of this new ride? :)

I don't know for sure if these will fit DIN fittings, but this is like the one I mentioned for Motorcycle springs:

https://www.amazon.com/1320-Performance-Coilover-Adjustment-Spanner/dp/B01CWIDTEG/ref=sr_1_6

You could probably cut one of those down. They're much thinner than a standard spanner, because there are two lock nuts, which these are intended for.

Here are some in aluminum:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PC7PIVC/ref=psdc_15709001_t2_B01CWIDTEG

https://www.amazon.com/Inner-Wrench-Remover-Removal-Tool/dp/B00PB7V1DM/ref=sr_1_29?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1520636944&sr=1-29&keywords=inner+tie+rod+tool

Don't cheap out on the spring compressors. That, or get someone else to do it and pay the cost of not putting yourself in harm's way.

Maybe something like this (or similar for your make/model):

https://www.amazon.com/MacPherson-Interchangeable-Spring-Compressor-Mercedes/dp/B00G1RXH38

> The safety clips didn't fit around my gauge springs but I used it anyway

This feeds into my point: when you use them EXACTLY AS DESIGNED, they are not dangerous at all.

I would suggest using a one-piece spring compressor if you have this issue.

http://www.tooltopia.com/mayhew-tools-29910.aspx

http://www.tooltopia.com/otc-tools-6295.aspx

Both of those are a little cheaper on tooltopia and you don't have to pay tax (or at least, I don't, idk what the rules are for who does and doesn't) or shipping on orders over $75.

For long term use, I'd probably trust Astro Pneumatic's brand name over Ztech. I've always had great luck from AP tools, and they have an identical looking kit for $9 more on Amazon. Many years ago, I bought a cheap (holy crap, just looked it up and I paid almost $50 for that shipped) piston kit from ebay, it lasted about a year. The pin on the main plate sheared off. But that was a long time ago, maybe they're cheaper and better now?

Something to keep in mind with that inner tie rod tool, it doesn't have a lifetime warranty, and the mechanism will break at some point, and it's $52 for the replacement part. I have one, but I rarely use it. It's usually easier to just turn the wheel all the way and use some Knipex Cobra pliers.

I do most of my tool shopping between Amazon, Tooltopia, and eBay anymore. Between the three, you can usually find a pretty good deal.

I certainly trust OTC tools, I've never really had any problems and have a lot of them (and a lot of them that are rebranded as Mac/Matco/Cornwell).

These are the spring compressors I have, only problem I've had is that the little nub on the pin that prevents flying parts if it slips? That thing sometimes is too large to fit over the spring.

I have a Mac EM710 multimeter, and a Fluke 77 IV also. I like the Fluke better because the Mac turns on in AC for whatever freaking reason (srsly, it's a multimeter primarily marketed at auto techs working exclusively with DC, made by a company that almost exclusively sells to auto techs, but the damn thing turns on in AC every single time. wtf.), but I like the Mac better because the body is more square so it'll sit on it's side easier.

Power Probe's are also super duper handy, you can quickly check if something has power and ground without having to change the other end of your test light, and you can quickly apply power to check if a component is functioning. And they're super cheap on Amazon these days. That makes me sad, I paid like $200 for my PP3!

This video helps. But I'd consider, at least getting these adapters, which you may be able to rent.

You are going to need the hub seal tool. Depending on year you'll need this. That hub seal you need, and your 4x4 wont work right if its not on there. Needs to be airtight fit.

2005+

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6698-Knuckle-Installer-Current/dp/B004FZCH70/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=6.0+hub+seal+installer&qid=1570149049&sr=8-2


99-2004

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6695-Shaft-Installer-1998-2004/dp/B0015PKC5W/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=6.0+hub+seal+installer&qid=1570149049&sr=8-1