(Part 3) Top products from r/Aquariums

Check out some pictures in my profile of the 10 gallon I have set up. Here's what I would do if I were you. Can you start fresh? Here's what to do:

Buy one 15 pound bag of Seachem Flourite substrate. It comes in many colors, I prefer black. It comes in gravel type and sand type. I personally started w/ gravel type but the sand type is more fun, in my opinion. I added sand on top of my gravel afterwards and it will stay only because I already have plants established. But when I move everyone to a 20long or 29 in the near future, I would just use the sand. Just REMEMBER TO WASH IT THOROUGHLY! It is VERY dusty. But this stuff is worth it, I promise. Your plants will grow 10x better than if you used regular gravel or regular sand. This is the only stuff I'll use for planted tanks. It holds onto some nutrients and helps bring it to plant roots. It's inert, so it won't change your ph. And it NEVER breaks down, unlike most of the other good plant substrates, which have to be replaced every 1-3 years. So it's the best choice imo. It is economical, compared to other plant substrates. It will help you achieve success with your plants.

For plants, I recommend a few basic ones to start out with, bulletproof. You should buy as many plants as you can physically fit in your tank, they will do better that way. You can get the following at most pet stores too. Anubias and java fern have what's called a rhizome and you should superglue it to driftwood, rocks, or decorations. Lots of Youtube vids of this for inspiration. And Amazon sword (echinodorus) a root feeder which won't do as good in gravel, but does awesome in Flourite and looks beautiful when it's grown in. Jungle Val (vallisneria) is a long, grassy looking plant which is a great filler plant. Cryptocorne (wendtii and parva are a couple I love) give some nice variation in heigh and texture. And red dwarf lily, which comes as a bulb, is a beautiful red plant with big drapey leaves and it sends lily pads to the surface. All of these are easy growers. Throw a root tab deep under the substrate every few months (i use 2 broken in half, four pieces, as a 10 gallon isn't very big. Api brand or Flourish tabs are p good)

And the other part of the equation for plants to thrive is light. You can go basic for this or fancy, it doesn't really matter. Just find an LED light between $15-50 that has good reviews and fits your tank, it will probably have enough light for the plants I recommended above. Please get a timer to set your light to be consistent. You can set the timer for 5-8 hours at first so algae doesn't have as much a chance to grow, but if you stuff your aquarium with plants, you will have easier time with that. They will outcompete most algae in the right cases.

You will have to cycle the tank, I hope you know about this but if not please research the nitrogen cycle as it is crucial to the health of your tank. Get an API freshwater master test kit and do frequent water changes if you do fish-in cycle.

For fish, a few you can get at pet stores are:

For a centerpiece fish, imo a betta is the best easy and fun option. Only 1 to a tank. My heart belongs to my female betta Serafina, she is amazing, the queen of her 10 gallon. I would get one with short fins, a king betta, or a female, please, because they do better with the bigger space, the ones with long flowing fins are fighting against the weight of them and can have a hard time in a 10. But a plakat or female will be sharky and awesome to watch. Sometimes they are aggressive to tankmates, but if you set the tank up as thickly planted as i suggest, they usually do quite well with the right tank mates. Usually, this means bottom feeders. You have a few options.

Pygmy corydoras, you can start with 4 and have up to 6 or 7 maximum, start with a lower number and add a few more after a couple weeks if you do the fish-in cycle. They are really fun little fish who are quite active when they are in a proper group, easy to keep, and really fun.

You can do otocinclus instead of corydoras. I would suggest not, because they need a well seasoned tank with a good amount of algae and biofilm and can be challenging to keep. Nevertheless, I have 5 of these in my 10gal and they do awesome. 3 females, 2 males. They are fat, peaceful, happy, and mine have some iridescence to them since they grew up nice and healthy. I love them!

With either betta and corydoras or otocinclus, doesnt matter, you can also have up to 3 mystery snails in your tank if your filtration is really really really good. These guys are a little messy and can get big but they are amazing! Only pick really active ones, if they are all lazy at the store get different ones or wait for another shipment. They have so much character and can get as big as like, a lemon! I have 3 beautiful grey ones in my 10gal, and in my 5.5 gallon amano shrimp and wild female betta tank I have 1 ivory colored and 1 golden colored mysteries. In my Fluval Spec V, I have 1 black mystery snail. They are really really cool and I would be sad to have a tank without them.

And that is a good complete stocking for your tank. I also have red cherry shrimp in my 10, but those can be hard to find. If you want, you can add some of those or amano shrimp.

My 10 gallon is a blast to watch and it's because I set myself up for success from the beginning. I never get bored, it's like a whole ecosystem and there's always something cute or funny going on! My tankmates get along really well, and often hang out together, it is really fascinating.

I’m sorry to say the above comments are right. Common goldfish get over 1 foot in length and are incredibly messy fish. They really belong in a pond, but you could theoretically keep one in 75 gallon (but a 90 gallon is the same footprint with a little more height, offering more water and therefore easier to keep clean). Really, they should have a tank that is at least 6 foot long and 18 inches wide, but a 75 (4 feet and 18 inches wide) would be the bare minimum. Anything narrower and the fish will have trouble turning around as goldfish get over 12-14 inches long if they are healthy. They will stay smaller if their growth is stunted, but this is extremely unhealthy for them and results in a much shorter lifespan. With a 75 or 90 gallon, be prepared to do 30-50% waterchanges every week (which should be pretty easy with a system like the python. You won’t need a heater, but you will need a great filter. I recommend a canister filter, but if that is out of your price range two of these or better yet two of these will work well. Goldfish are plant eaters so you won’t have to worry about plants, so you can get whatever light you like/what’s cheapest. Big tanks are expensive, but you can often find them used along with the stands (which saves a ton of money). You can also get a 75 gallon half off from Petco during the dollar-per-gallon sale, and then build your own stand (tons of plans online). For substrate, I would buy pool filter sand (very cheap and great for goldfish, it can’t get stuck in their mouths like gravel and it looks awesome, it’s easy to keep clean too). There are a lot of ways to cut costs, especially with a goldfish tank that doesn’t need a filter or fancy light. Feel free to ask any questions, and please do some research on the nitrogen cycle (introduction ) it’s the most important thing you can possibly learn as a new fishkeeper! You will need a test kit too, to test your water. Don’t bother with test strips as they are very inaccurate, go ahead and get this. If you want to cycle the tank quickly and without a hassle, this is the only one that really works. Welcome to the wonderful world of fishkeeping! Best of luck with your pet! Goldfish are lots of fun.


Edit: petsmart has a 75 gallon tank with stand, lid, and light for half off today for Black Friday (at $249 a screaming deal for a brand new tank!!) if you are interested.

I recommend checking out Craigslist if you are interested in a bigger tank and are only put off by the price. Lots of people sell second hand stuff for cheap. I was looking earlier today and saw seventy gallon set up with a stand, filter, and lighting for under a hundred in the Inland Empire.

If you are going small with first use equipment, a 3g is suitable for a single Betta and a non fish companion such as a larger snail or a couple of smaller shrimp (Ghost Shrimp are common and work well, but Cherry Shrimp are prettier if you can find them). I use this tank for a Betta, a large snail, and half a dozen ghost shrimp. The design is quite nice and the included air pump, filter, and lighting is sufficient for a small Betta tank, though you still need to buy gravel and decorations.

You mentioned frogs in your initial post -- African Dwarf Frogs are compatible with a Betta tank, but it can be a pain to feed them because their vision is terrible and a Betta is likely to try eat their food before they find it. If you don't mind that, they are pretty neat.

Bettas are aggressive to their own so you can only keep one per community except for female sorority tanks with 4 or more females. Unfortunately the females have the shorter fins and are less attractive generally. Also you have to avoid placing any fish that a Betta can mistake for a rival in the tank (i.e. fish with bright colors or flowing fins). So it's usually best to stay with non dangerous invertebrate like shrimp and snails in small Betta tanks. If you go for a larger set-up where there is more room, you can get fish like Neon Tetras who may provoke a Betta but can easily run away with enough room (a properly equipped 10g can hold a Betta and a small school of six Neons if you are diligent with weekly maintenance). Proving ample cover in the tank is also useful.

If you stay with going small, a Betta is likely hardy enough to deal with the initial cycle of your tank if want to start right away, just make sure you are diligent with partial water changes every three days while you do the first cycle (I stress it would be safer to do a fishless cycle). These fish are able to put up with being trapped in the small cups at Petco and Petsmart after all, not that they should have to. I would recommend you leave it at just the Betta at first to keep the cycle easier - the toxins from cycling will affect small shrimp and snails faster than it will affect the Betta.

I live in SoCal and my water stays at 74 to 76 without heating (windows closed at night) which is fine for a Betta, so I don't think you need a heater unless it gets very cold in your area at night.

Fake plants are fine, but go for silk versus plastic if you can. It's usually not an issue but plastic can tear up a Betta's fins because they are so ornate. Real plants help with water quality though and usually look prettier. Simple plants like Anarcharis or Amazon Swords should be under $5 at Petco or Petsmart.

Creating bubbles requires an air pump at the very least. You can get one sufficient for up to a 10g for only $7-$10 at Petsmart or Amazon. Creating multiple smaller (prettier) bubbles will require fitting the end of the tubing with an air stone or other bubble accessory (a bubble wand creates a backdrop curtain of bubbles against a wall of the tank for instance). However, Bettas flowing fins make it hard for them to deal with lots of current in the water so if you get a smaller tank you will want to have the bubble output isolated to one area so there's room for the Betta to get away. The same problem exists with filters; in smaller tanks the output can be too strong for a Betta and you may have to construct a "baffle" to break the impact of the filter's current.

One option that works well for small Betta tanks is to use a sponge filter. Sponge filters are powered by the movement of water from your air pump; rising bubbles force water to move and that draws surrounding water through the sponge to replace the rising water. The sponge will mechanically filter your water, and the bacteria for the nitrogen cycle will colonize the sponge to do the biological filtration. Cheap sponge filters go for under five dollars on Amazon, like this one, and they can fulfill your bubbling and filtration at the same time.

You can also get that Tetra kit on Amazon, if you want, OP (same price, but maybe more convenient): http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-29095-Cube-Aquarium-3-Gallon/dp/B008CA7W7E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412106897&sr=8-1&keywords=tetra+3+gallon

And, I hate to be a total downer, but a heater and a thermometer are also really needed. Bettas like water between 78 and 82 degrees F. You can buy a cheapo heater, though, at least for now. I have these thermometers and they are good and cheap and work: http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Digital-Fish-Aquarium-Thermometer/dp/B00GR0LKN8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412106999&sr=8-1&keywords=digital+aquarium+thermometer

Also, I would super, super advise switching out that plastic plant with a silk one. Your betta wants somewhere to rest, but plastic plants can snag betta fins. And you do need a dechlorinator if you don't have one. (If you don't have one, I recommend SeaChem Prime, but if you do have one, use whatever you are using.)

So that's more than $30. BUT: it will take you less than an hour a week to take care of the little dude once your cycle finishes, so hopefully that balances out. Please read about cycling in the sidebar if you have not already. You are doing fish-in cycling. Understand what that means and what you need to do to keep your fish safe. I would normally advise buying a test kit, but that will bring you even further over budget and you can bring samples to a pet store and they should test your water for you if you ask. The nitrogen cycle is a great little science lesson if your kid isn't too young, also!

Once your tank is cycled, you will just need to do water changes once a week (drain a percentage of your tank, with 3 gallons you'll probably do something like 50%, honestly, since it is so small and changes are so easy). Temperature match new water using the thermometer, add dechlorinator, and pour the water in. Once a month or so, rinse out your filter media in some tank water (NOT tap water). And obviously feed your fish small amounts every day-ish, keep an eye on the temperature, and try to notice any potential disease issues.

If you do the things I listed above, that's basically the bare bones of betta keeping right there. Everything else is extra. You may want to creep over on /r/plantedtank one day in the future, and you may want to visit /r/bettafish as well, but this should be sufficient to keep your betta healthy.

If you have any questions, let me know.

Unfortunately a huge part of success in this hobby is patience, so there's going to be a bit of waiting before you can get fish in there. But it's definitely worth it!

Before you do anything, you'll need to test your tank for leaks, as someone has already mentioned. Then you'll need to decide where the tank is going in your home. Is it close enough to a faucet for water changes? Does it receive any direct sunlight from nearby windows? (This could cause algae issues later on.) You'll need a stand made specifically for an aquarium (craigslist is good for this, occasionally pet stores will have decent online sales as well). A gallon of water weighs ~8 lbs, so once your tank is full it will weigh about 500 lbs with substrate, most furniture can't handle that much weight unless it's solid wood.

It's been mentioned a few times on here, but make sure you have a great understanding of the nitrogen cycle before bringing any fish home. I've heard some pet store employees refer to "cycling" as "letting the dust settle from the gravel and the filter/heater run for a few days" but that is NOT cycling and will end up killing your fish from ammonia poisoning. As far as fish go, my only other advice would be never bring anything home without researching thoroughly (temperature, tank size requirements, full adult size, etc) Seriously Fish is a great resource for reading up on different species, it's usually my go-to.

For plants you can go as cheap/simple as pool filter sand with some root tabs or as fancy as plant-specific substrate (ada aquasoil, flourite, eco complete) with pressurized CO2. It really boils down to personal preference and how much money you want to spend. Plant species I've found especially difficult/impossible to kill are Amazon Swords, Anubias, and various Crypts. There are many more "beginner" plants, but those have all worked/looked best for me personally. Petsmart will occasionally have some really good markdowns on their tissue cultured plants (the ones in the packaging on the shelf) and I've had a lot of success with those, even when they're half-dead.

Sorry for the wall of text, I hope it was of at least a little help! This subreddit has also helped me tremendously, especially the links in the sidebar like this one. Good luck, and make sure to show us a picture once you get it up and running!

First, welcome, I hope you enjoy this subreddit we have. The first thing to know is the nitrogen cycle. You MUST understand this like the back of your hand before getting a fish, otherwise the fish wont be happy, or it might die. Figure out what your tap water is, in terms of pH, and other things in the water. To test this water you will need a test kit. A really high quality and highly recommended one is this. You can also use test strips but I dont know any good ones. Secondly, the smaller aquarium you have, the harder it is to maintain stable parameters. Stable parameters means happy fish. A good small starter aquarium is a 10 gallon for $10 at petco. With a filter, light, HEATER <---(All of these are needed), it should be around $30-$40. Remember, this is a pet, take care of it. Yes, you can buy fish online, I would do some research and see if there are of good quality. Another thing to be aware of is maintenance. Maintenance includes water changes and overall health of the aquarium. Do some research to make sure you have a cycled aquarium (cycling refers to the nitrogen cycle, that needs to be monitored). Aquarium fish cannot live from just straight tap water, which means you need a water dechlorinator such as this. In summary, to keep a fish alive and healthy/happy you need: heater, proper size aquarium, filter, light,water dechlorinator, and basic knowledge of the nitrogen cycle.

Re your questions:

• I noticed that one side is bubbling furiously and the other side bubbles every 30 seconds or so in a burst. If the side bubbling furiously is nearer to the air pump then it might not be strong enough to push air to the end, especially if it's far away from the filter. Check for airline kinks or blockages in the filter too.
  
• Do I really need to remove all my decorations every time I do water changes/clean the gravel? No.
  
• What size siphon/gravel cleaner should I use and do you have any recommendations? I have three of these and have no complaints. I use them with squeeze siphon starters as I have floating plants I don't want to disturb by using gravity to start the flow.
  
• When I reach in to my aquarium, do I need to wear gloves? Wash or rinse my hands? The proper answer is that you should wear gloves as fish TB and other diseases are communicable to humans. That said, most folks just rinse their hands and arms well before and after reaching into the tank unless they know there's illness in the tank. Use soap and rinse it off well if you have perfume, lotion, or any chemicals on your skin.
  
• When preparing water to refill after cleaning, do I need to use a thermometer to ensure the temperature is equal or will a finger test suffice? An extra thermometer is $2 so I'd get one. Better safe than sorry. I keep one by the sink for water changes and it's made me correct the temp more than once.
  
• Is this appropriate given my tank size/filtration? If you just had the biowheel I'd say your filtration might be on the light side depending upon how you stock (8x-10x tank turnover per hour is suggested with HOBs) but paired with a UGF I expect it'll be fine. You can play with stocking calcs on AQAdvisor.com. (The "one inch per gallon" rule is bunk, FYI.)
  
  A few other things I wish I'd considered before starting:
  
  
• Filled tanks are seriously heavy. A 20g will weigh at least 225 pounds. Think long and hard where you want it and make sure your floor can support the weight.
  
• If the tank's going on furniture (as opposed to a tank stand) get Plexiglass cut to size to cover and protect its surface. Water will splash and drip during maintenance.
  
• Be proactive in having common medicines on hand to avoid frantic searches for them when they're needed. I always keep things like Kanaplex, Furan-2, PraziPro, Paraguard, methylene blue, and clove oil on hand. (I prophylactically use Prazi and Paraguard during QT.)
  
• Dip and QT plants to mitigate the risk of bringing snails and illness into the tank.
  
  Good luck and have fun!

I'm going to make this list assuming that you have Amazon in your area and that either you or someone you know has Amazon Prime. If not, then think of this as more of a template that you can tweak using what you have available to you:

• Tank: Finnex Rimless - This isn't a prefab as much as it is just a blank slate. 7.5 gallons is ample room for a nice little shrimp colony, the tank itself is quite attractive and Finnex is one of my more favored brands for LEDs.
  
  
• Filtration: Depending on your personal preference, I tried/like both the Tom Mini Filter and Deep Blue Biomaxx Nano. They're both quiet, gentle and have few moving parts for easy maintenance and cleaning. It just depends on whether you like submersible or HOB style filters, though if using the Biomaxx I'd suggest wrapping the intake with coarse filter pads or a sponge.
  
  
• Substrate: Eco-Complete - You'll probably be able to grow just about any plant you desire in this stuff, it's dirt cheap compared to other brands and is just as easy to use as plain old normal gravel. One bag should be all you need.
  
  Hopefully you have Amazon Prime available to you where you are, and if so none of this requires any shipping charge. If you do at most this will cost you $115.79, leaving you lots of money to spend on shrimp and plants! Hope this was helpful to you, best of luck!

Just an fyi, I have sand in most of my tanks and I have plants in all of them. And most fish are fine with sand. The bigger concern with a 10 gallon is finding fish that work in it. Schooling fish need a group of 6 and many are too big. I have a couple 10s. You can do:

• 12 Chili Rasboras and 6 Corydoras habrosus. They need sand anyway. These 2 together have a very low bioload. They are not beginner fish, BUT if you are keeping up with weekly water changes and testing and cleaning substrate. You must keep this moderately planted.
  
• 8 Rosy loaches and 8 Chili Rasboras if you over filter with the equivalent of an Aqueon 20 quietflow filter. Not necessarily beginner fish either, need very clean water so the above note applies here too. But, if kept moderately planted this can be a fun tank.
  
• If you want bombproof easy beginner fish, get 8 male only Endlers, a couple of Amano shrimp, a bunch of live plants, and then after several months, you could even get a Nerite.
  
  If your plants need a boost in sand, you dose with Seachem Excel (liquid Co2) and Seachem Flourish. And if you had heavy root feeders, you could use root tabs. I find the narrow tubed python works reallly reallly well to clean sand because the fat ones just suck up the sand, and you still need to clean the substrate. so this is important to keep your fish healthy. Hope this helps!

The cheapest regular tanks with black plastic trim are in BigAl's, in store, not online. After Christmas but before New Year they have sometimes good sales. Next, AngelFins (ON) seems to be offering them online. 20 gal long is better than regular shorter shape, more swimming and aquascaping space.

But the main problem is the source of RO water. The cheapest, RO Buddie has no solid carbon block for chloramine, and without it you will have to change cartridges frequently, each of them $17+ and membrane around $50. After figuring out the source of problem, I switched to the cheapest RO filter from Home Depot: with solid carbon core block, large cartridges last for long, easily available, cheap, last close to half of year. This will not fit your budget. Tap water is also possible, but you could get nuisance algae growth r deaths if they release something in water main for maintenance.

Everything below is necessary and at lowest price, without tax and shipping. Check by yourself if it fits your budget.

Salt mix could be any, the cheapest is Instant Ocean or other on sale. ReefSupplies.ca, PetsAndPonds, AngelFins, BigAlsPets. If you are on the West coast, J&L Aquatics. Add ~$20 shipping. If you have any reef supplies nearby, buying in person could save money on shipping. Refractometer, at Amazon should be ~$18, make sure that scale is in 1.024 on the left, 35 ppt on the right, not 0/00. TDS meter to control quality of RO water (when change cartridges) also on amazon, HM digital, mine is blue at $25, with calibration solution for it, 342 ppm.

Filter:

• if canister filter, min $100 (ReefSupplies or PetsAndPonds),
  
  
• if HOB, power filter, large AquaClear is $90 at P&P,
  
  
• DIY filter could cost more than ready made.
  
  Powerhead, 1-2, for a flow. Koralia, $35, at ReefSupplies or Fluval Sea at P&P. MaxiJet is a bit cheaper but large.
  
  Water pump for mixing salt, MaxiJet, ~$30 . Heater for mixing salt, WalMart Tetra 200W, ~$16.
  
  Heater, choose by yourself. Tetra is the cheapest, but looks not nice and has preset 78F, on the lower side. 79F would be better. Adjustable heaters are more expensive and could not hold temperature at required range, then you might need external temperature controller like InkBird. Jager, Aqueon, Marina Precision, starting from $32 on Amazon.
  
  Reef rock you have to compare prices by yourself, too many of them and most of them are out of your price range. ReefSupplies seems to be the best, $74 plus heavy shipping. Live rock at Big Als is ~$8/lb. You could try local classifieds, if someone is going out of hobby. Last resort: gardening centres and landscaping companies, see if they have porous alkaline rock. Or DIY reef rock, not for doing this in apartment.
  
  Substrate: sugar sized aragonite is most common, but you can get by without substrate, bare bottom.
  
  Test kits: API is bottom line, $11-13 each, ammonia, nitrite, for cycling; nitrate, phosphate for controlling nutrient export, calcium, KH and high range pH for monitoring stability of water parameters and Salifert magnesium, $25. At AF, P&P, RS.
  
  Lights also could be out of budget, ask advice for this tank size for the low cost lights. Nicrew from Amazon might work. 165W could be too hot, read reviews for this tank size. PAR38 LED create cone of light, 1 sq ft. Even daylight shoplight from Canadian Tire, wrong spectrum for marine tank, could be comparable in price.
  
  Additives: Ca, alk, Mg, only when necessary. ESV B-Ionic in gallon size is economical at P&P. Or dry additives.
  
  Seachem Prime as water conditioner, dechlorinator and your safety net in case of ammonia spike. $10-20, depends on bottle size.
  
  Thermometer, as low as $2 in AF, micro size.
  
  Fish, invertebrates, coral frags, their food, variety of it. DIY recipes are online. I'm getting mine from local reef stores. $20 common small fish, $13 small frag, $4-8 snail, $4 hermit crab.
  
  Hope that I didn't miss anything.
  
  What will fit your budget, but not your requirements: fishless pico on bottled distilled water from grocery store or pharmacy, simplest 1, 2, or simpler in hardware, but more work with trimming and corals placement: Reef Vase and ReefBowl. Vases of this size are not available in Canada, at lest where I am, available are way too small to fit heater and coral frag.

Ahhh... that makes sense. You did come off as weirdly competent for a newbie. Threw me off for a bit.

> it freaked me out that i shouldnt be monitoring nitro/ph/ on a weekly basis

You definitely can, if you want to. pH is actually something I spend a lot of time looking at in my planted tanks (it's a good way of keeping track of the CO2... tracking trends over the day is useful; since ideally you'd be going for stability). It's not a bad idea to check the nitrate levels once every so often too (although our version of acceptable is quite a bit higher than in saltwater).

> I am only using distilled water to fill/top off

Remineralized, presumably?

> im hoping the tank will be properly cycled before fish are added.

Have you dosed with any ammonia?

> i am looking into this before i overplant my mini-tank too hard

That one kinda sucks a little bit. You don't really have a whole lot of control with that style (the idea on that is you fill the underwater bell with gas and let it diffuse out. It's entirely passive). I had the 88g version of that kit; which has a regulator and is intended to run continuously. It gives you a little bit more control; but what I found with my setup is the needle valve wasn't precise enough to control the small amounts of gas required for a weeny little tank like that. I wound up gassing my shrimp on a couple occasions.

There are better ones out there; I'm not that familiar with them though. My style tends towards dirt tanks (you put potting soil under a sand cap; the idea being that it works as a plant substrate and releases CO2 slowly as it decays).

> What would you do regarding the lighting situation? I am willing to invest a little into a custom fixture that would expand the possibilities of what i create. sitting across the room and looking at my tank i am very excited about my little underwater forest.

I'm probably not the best person to ask that (I'm basically the planted tank version of the Amish). However, I've seen lots of people use these. There's also a fairly nifty LED, also from fluval.

When I had my spec set up as a high tech tank I went with a fairly hideous CFL setup that was meant for a refugium. Now I've got one of these; which works well for a low tech setup.

If you're looking for ideas on what's possible, check out this thread. It's been active for years; there are some pretty cool setups in there.

The conditioner is good for treating tap water. I have never used the stress zyme, but it seems alright for establishing some good bacteria. For fertilizers you can just buy some seachem flourish :https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116051309-Flourish-500ml/dp/B00025696M/ref=sr_1_7?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1504143906&sr=1-7&keywords=seachem and excel https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-67104530-Flourish-Excel-500ml/dp/B000256962/ref=pd_bxgy_199_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3PGHZXBQPXTZWQEWQY7G . Also be prepared to buy some root tabs if you are getting heavy root feeding plants like amazon swords and jungle val, they will appreciate the extra nutrients https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-Flourish-Tabs-40-Count/dp/B001NTE30A/ref=pd_sim_199_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3PGHZXBQPXTZWQEWQY7G . Another option for fertilizers is to make your own with dry fertilizers. This method is much cheaper than buying the expensive commercial ones, so you can look that up and try it out if you want.

For the water testing kit, it is purely optional IMO but highly recommended. They are useful during cycling to check water parameters so you can confirm your tank is indeed 100% cycled. They are also useful for weekly/monthly tank check ups to see if anything is fouling your water (which can potentially kill your plants and fish!). You can either buy the testing strips or the liquid test kit. Both are pretty expensive, but you'll get the most bang for your buck with the liquid test kit- https://www.amazon.com/API-FRESHWATER-800-Test-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B000255NCI/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1504144626&sr=1-4&keywords=test+kit

Congrats on the new fish! Bettas are my favorite fish, they're active and have a lot of personality, and they're very curious. I know you're starting off, but here's some info I hope will help :)

Bettas do best with a heater, between 75-79F / 23-26C, it helps them prevent illness and it keeps them active. I might consider upgrading him to a small tank you can put a heater and maybe a filter in, he'll be very active and fun to watch. I use this little filter for healing tanks if you're looking for a simple little filter.

Also, if you've heard or read anything along the lines of "bettas can live in vases by eating the plant roots" this is a lie - bettas are obligate carnivores, they only eat plants out of desperation when they're starving, and it can't sustain them. Make sure you have betta pellets, or freeze dried brine shrimp or blood worms :)

Make sure he always has access to the surface - bettas are anabantoids, or labyrinth fish, which means they need to breathe air from the surface. They can actually drown if they can't access the air, I've heard of this happening in vases where the plant blocked surface air access.

No no no, don't add a pleco. They are bad for goldfish as they find their slime coat quite tasty. Plus, goldies are cold water and basically every other fish type is warm water. With the shrimp and crayfish you are just going to be throwing your money away, they will die pretty quickly in a goldfish tank. It's a common misconception that fish like Cory's or Pleco's eat poop, but Cory's eat what the other fish miss that floats to the bottom and Pleco's eat algae and plants. You WILL get an algae bloom eventually, don't go buy a pleco, just work on scrubbing it off and taking care with water changes because pleco's are hard to take care of properly and don't belong with goldfish.

Add your second filter right now, and if you can, get some cycled filter media out of your current one to put into the new one, to help get the bacteria growing properly. That EX70 is definitely not big enough. You are going to need to be cycling 300+ gallons an hour, so you are probably going to need to get a third one or just invest in something in the 110 size or larger. Seriously, goldfish are a mess in small tanks. You might get something like the Quick Vac to help get the poop out in between water changes. I love my cleaner, it really helps (I do have a pleco, he's such a poop machine, I have to clean out his home a few times a week.)

2.5 is going to be a pain down the road honestly... advise going 3-5, some would even say 10.. less water = far faster water parameter swings. My wife and i have over 18 betta now, and we've learned a bunch... so here's my 2 cents. Key items are in bold

going down your list:

• heater: you: hydor slim -
  me:ditch preset heaters like this, you at the VERY least want one that will auto shut off (stick heaters like this stay on at a 'set' temp). Hydor theo and some of the tetras are okay... prefer the theo or cobalt neo therm for them so i can adjust
  
  
• diver dan - just make sure to run fingers and stockings along all the surfaces to see if anything can snag the fish's fins... they're very delicate
  
• betta hammock - love these things, as do the fish... make sure to wash well before popping into the tank with hot water
  
• cichlid stone - be VERY careful to check this for sharp/rough edges, kept looking at these and another variant. they felt like concrete inside and would have mangled the fins
  *light - no experience with these things, a low powered desk lamp could even work, this should be fine
  
• marimo - these don't really do anything other than provide decoration, burp them if they float (gently squeeze), make sure to rotate once in a while to keep the round shape... sometimes carry pest snails
  
• food new life spectrum or omega one betta pellets, avoid flake foods. I feed all of ours the Omega one due to being able to find it easier.
  
• filtration you could do a small bubble filter, for a tank this small... https://www.amazon.com/Aquarium-Biochemical-Small-Sized-Filtrator-Percolator/dp/B01GWMD1XM/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1473967624&sr=1-2&keywords=small+sponge+filter+aquarium
  
  or
  If you end up going to a larger tank - encouraged, look into the deep blue nano https://www.amazon.com/Deep-Blue-Professional-ADB88700-Aquarium/dp/B00BUFTI6Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473967813&sr=8-1&keywords=deep+blue+nano+filter
  
  the aquaclear 20 is a bit too strong for a betta, and it's not worth modding it when you can just get this guy.
  
  walmart and them should have nets so don't bother ordering online, shipping usually makes them cost more than it's worth.
  might also want a bucket for water changing so you're not moving the tank.
  
  ----
  
  suggestions for starting up...
  
  while a betta CAN survive a cycle, it's not nice.
  
  Suggest getting something like poland spring water to fill the tank, and putting in a few drops of prime and stability. popping the live plants in there will also kick start the cycle as well.

We ran our 5.5 gal beautifully with one of these but you need an air pump to run it

Aquaneat Air Driven Bio Corner Filter Sponge Fry Shrimp Nano Fish Tank Aquarium 20 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078WP442W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZHnhDbKSFVG4D

This is a GREAT option though and id do this if i did it over again. But one thing is i would remove the filter things inside and replace with a piece of filter foam or just poly floss and some ceramic rings or similar media inside. Floss or foam against the intake grates and the rings behind it. I love these cause theyre super strong little guys and are completely silent

Aqueon Quietflow Internal Power Filter, 10 Gallon, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWV4R8I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mKnhDbT1RMMTG

If you don't want to go the canister filter method (which I highly recommend) I would go with an aquaclear. They're much better than these, and you can put whatever media you want in there so it's much more versatile than these. I had the penguin 350 and it's ok, but an aquaclear 110 would be your best bet. It's more expensive than these but far far far far better.

http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-110-Aquarium-Power-Filter/dp/B000260FV6

However, like I said, canister is the way to go. I use one of these on my tank and it's amazing. I used to use ehiems, but these are much cheaper and work just as well http://www.amazon.com/SunSun-HW-302-3-Stage-External-Canister/dp/B00892EN22/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1426534978&sr=1-3&keywords=sunsun+canister+filter

AquaClear 110 Hang on back filter issue: Water outlet pressure continually decreases

I've noticed a recent issue with my Fluval HOB filter I've had running for a little over a year. The water outlet pressure is good for a couple days then slows down to a trickle. I have a prefilter that I clean every time I notice it slow down but the frequency I have to clean it is abnormal. I've taken the filter apart, made sure the impeller is clean (it was slick with algae), and double checked the well cover is set properly - the flow rate is still decreasing. This is a sanity check - help.

LINK for filter

LINK for help forum I read

Thank you

Thank you so much! Was looking at African but I've now shifted to wanting an Amazon biotope :P.

Already have a list of fish/driftwood/etc, now it's just a matter of slowly buying things in order of importance - although I still need to learn more about 'cycling,' ph, different foods, how much I need to feed them, how/when to do water changes, all that.

The two filter thing is a really good idea. I'll probably go with two of the 50 gal aquaclears. On sale for 30 bucks with free shipping http://www.amazon.com/AquaClear-110-Aquarium-Power-Filter/dp/B000260FV6

>I love having redundancy in case something terrible happens

Considering how much of my teenager part-time-job paycheck this whole thing is looking to eat up I don't blame you for the thought.

edit: hoping this is reliable for lighting: http://www.hallman.org/plant/lights.html

we have a 24 hour timer somewhere in the house that I've used before to culture algae

This is the sponge filter I currently have - SPonge

This is what I was looking to get (not at all sure) - FIlter

I forgot the exact name of the catfish but I believe they are Panda Catfish - or look very similar. This is 1 https://imgur.com/OkgmIJj the other one look exactly the same but about half again as big.

​

I hve 2 air pumps. 1 came with the 3 gallon tank set up I got on Amazon - see Here (just realized its a 3 gallon not a 5)

And then I purchased an air pump - Pump

And maybe I got the name wrong for the glofish, the pet store I could swore said neon tetra on the tank but I have those and definitely not that - https://imgur.com/8xNmjPi .EDIT- You can see them better in the OP picture if you click on it. Reason I ask is because my Betta was going after them the first day and they seemed SUPER chill. I haven't seen them try to nip at anything so far. Although its been 3 days. Also the catfish was in the tank w them so I figured they would get a long.

​

OK so the guy in the petstore told me i can have up to 20 fish in the 10 gallon. It's a private store not petco or petsmart/petland etc. Is that not the case then? I don't want to crowd my tank I was just planning on getting 2 more colors of the "Glofish" and that was probably going to be it.

​

Thanks!!

You already have a lot of good info so I'll keep it short.

20G long, I have one and it's plenty big and perfect for beginners.

A good LED strip (Current USA Satellite Freshwater LED Plus Light for Aquarium, 48 to 60-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7OTF9E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_suf4wbZEY2P0K)

Hook it up with one of those sun-sun canister filters off amazon (I have one and I love it). The more filtration and circulation , the better.

For fish I recommend Clown Killifish, they are small, you can have a lot of them (3 females to every male), and they are hardy! I also recommend Galaxy rasboras (aka celestial pearl danios) they are lovely, fun to watch, and hardy.

Definitely get some red cherry shrimp but make sure they have moss. If you ever want some I sell them on r/aquaswap I'll also directed you to r/plantedtank and r/jarrariums

In a 55 gallon its best to go with 3 species at 1m/4f ratios. If you're a novice you should go with the beginner Mbunas (yellow labs, rusties, etc). Definitely do your research first and hopefully you have knowledgeable staff at your LFS to help you with your purchases. Pound for pound Mbuna are the most aggressive cichlids and its an absolute must to keep them in groups. For, a fully stocked 55 gallon Mbuna tank, I would recommend an Aquaclear 110 and a medium sized canister filter (Penn-Plax Cascade is a good economical choice http://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-Cascade-Canister-Filter/dp/B0002DJ9NY ) ...and rocks, lots and lots of rocks.

Good luck!

I got a 3.5 gallon tank for my daughter's Betta. I have been dealing with fin rot, but it looks like he's getting better. I am trying to find a better filter than the one I have now. I'm using the one that came with the top fin aquascene tank. I don't think he like it because it disturbs the water too much. I was looking into the quietflow at10. I think this will work great for my tank. The one question I had about it is the filter.
First off they are expensive and it has carbon filled in it. I have seen people say you can fill it with your own media to create your own filter. I have seen sponges and ceramic rings? I just wondering what I should look for and how to go about it. I accidentally killed my cycle anyways so don't worry about that. That happened before I even knew what a cycle was. I want to start fresh and have something I know my fish will like and will help create and sustain my cycle.

Sunlight will lead to algae. I would try to get something like this as having a light over your tank will bring out their best colors.

Also, try your hand at some very hardy plants, like a cryptocoryne or a marino moss ball. Gives tanks a more natural feel.

Definitely be looking in to canister filters. You would probably do best with having two large-ish canister filters, sorry I don't have any brand recommendations.

Substrate: Since you're planning to do a planted tank I would definitely recommend this one. It is really good for plants and super good quality, not to mention I personally think it looks really amazing (depends what kind of look you want for your tank)

Plants: Again these really depend on what kind of look you're going for but I'll just give you some of the common low tech ones that always look killer in a tank

- Back of tank: Vallisineria, Amazon sword, Java fern, water wisteria and Ludwigia Repens

- Middle-ish of tank: Pygmy Chain Sword, anubia and anubia nana (keep in mind anubia needs to
be attached to an ornament/stone/driftwood not planted in gravel)

-Front of tank, completely optional but some small patched of carpeting plants often look nice:
Dwarf baby tears, java moss and dwarf hairgrass

Fish: Look everybody has different taste in fish, for me I really like Australian rainbows, tiger barbs,
golden blue rams, koi angelfish, fantail goldfish. If you reply back with some fish you personally like
the look of I might be able to help you come up with a stocking list

First-timer in over his head here. Could use an assist with setup. The ultimate goal is setting up something my (soon-to-be) 2 year old daughter will enjoy watching.

Planning on purchasing:

Tank & Stand: Aqueon 45G tank ensemble - $250

Light: LED - Included with tank

Filter: MarineLand Penguin 200 Power Wheel - $21

Heater: Orlushy Submersible Aquarium Heater 150W - $18

Python: Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System - $40, 24 inch adapter - $10, [hook] (https://smile.amazon.com/Python-Spill-Aquarium-Gravel-24-Inch/dp/B004PBHX4G/ref=pd_bxgy_199_img_2/146-3053739-1242457?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004PBHX4G&pd_rd_r=42a7c2bc-877d-414d-b0c9-2960fa629e40&pd_rd_w=q7tkK&pd_rd_wg=fjx36&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=ZE4SB0SAMR7BKXT7Z4QW&psc=1&refRID=ZE4SB0SAMR7BKXT7Z4QW) - $20, and this adapter for my non-threaded faucet - $12

Conditioner: [API Water Conditioner] (https://smile.amazon.com/API-CONDITIONER-Aquarium-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2SD31AR7OVW3V&keywords=water+conditioner+aquarium&qid=1567987105&s=gateway&sprefix=water+condition%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-3) - $7

Bacteria: [API Quick Start] (https://smile.amazon.com/API-CONDITIONER-Aquarium-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2SD31AR7OVW3V&keywords=water+conditioner+aquarium&qid=1567987105&s=gateway&sprefix=water+condition%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-3) - $4

Test Kits: [API 5-in-1 Test Strips] (https://smile.amazon.com/5-IN-1-AQ-Test-Strips-100CT/dp/B077YS7Y4Y/ref=sr_1_3?crid=VPPBFJ1NJSMG&keywords=api%2Btest%2Bkit&qid=1567987538&s=gateway&sprefix=api%2Btest%2Caps%2C210&sr=8-3&th=1) - $26

That takes me up to $408. That leaves me about $100-150 in the budget my wife gave me to get decorations and the fish themselves. (It was supposed to be $500, but we always go slightly over budget)

Any recommendations on large and colorful fish that could attract and keep a toddler's attention? Preferably peaceful.

Any other recommended tweaks to the build? I haven't purchased anything yet, so I'm willing to completely scrap this and start over if somebody has a better idea of how to use the money.

Nice work. Anubias is perfect - I keep it in my betta tank and he loves it. A few suggestions, though, to make it easier. Take some of the filter material from your current tank and put it in the new filter. If you do that, you have an instant cycle. One suggestion with the live plants is to pick up "Root Tabs." They will provide nutrients to the plants to promote strong root growth. I'd also suggest a liquid fertilizer like Seachem Flourish if you want optimal growth (nice looking plants!).

Also, driftwood is absolutely great. You will have "tannins" leaching into the water from the wood for awhile (essentially brown proteins without getting too much into the biology of it). They aren't harmful to the fish, but can make the water a dark, almost tea color. To deal with this, just change the carbon in your filter more frequently and do more frequent water changes.

I'm a little late but I'm a huge fan of this filter. It's tiny yet powerful with a controllable flow. I have mine on a custom tank that's really small(maybe 2 gallons, more like 1.5) and the water is crystal clear, though I did add my own media.

I would recommend this ,Its a bit more than $10 but honestly its cheap in terms of nice filters. I would recommend taking out the cartridge and adding your own biomedia. Its very cheap at pet stores, like $2-3 and then get a little bag to put it in which will be 99¢ or less.

If you can get her to upgrade to even a 2.5G, then you can use this little internal with relative ease. You can probably get a 2.5G that has a similar footprint to a 1G, just more height, and would allow a bit more space for the linked filter and a heater (examples: my favourite, a 3G or something like this or this).

If you can't, you might be able to fit the above filter into a 1G with the alternate outflow attachment (it comes with a spraybar and just a little nozzle). I've set up that filter and a heater in a 1G cube as a temporary QT before and didn't even leave it as a 1 week QT because it left too little room for anything else/stable parameters.

I have a Penguin 350 filling in on a 55 gallon tank with a Red-ear slider in it, since my canister bit the dust about a week ago. It's pretty old, but it's a workhorse. It really moves a considerable amount of water, and keeps the turtle tank pretty clean which is impressive because even one turtle generates substantially more waste than a whole aquarium of fish.

I was actually considering buying another Penguin 350 filter just to have on hand since Amazon dropped the price down this week...

So just to make sure I am getting this. You are saying that fishless cycling should be keeping the tank at 2-4 ppm (what is ppm?) ammonia for 24 hours. So basically I'll add 2-4 ppm(s) of 10% ammonia (which I find by doing the shake test, if it bubbles it's good if it doesn't bubble it's not, correct?) and after 24 hours if the tank doesn't read 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, and 0 nitrates I should put another 2-4 ppm(s) in? Also, I purchased [this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SP65N8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) filter and I now see that it has carbon in it. Should I send it back and get a new one? If yes what do you suggest? Also, when buying pebbles from a bag, should I soak those like people soak drift wood to clean them or are they good to go right into the tank? Sorry for all the questions I just keep thinking of them :P.

Do you think you could sneak in a 3 gallon?

I kept a betta in this tank with some success. The filter it comes with unfortunately has a high failure rate, but it worked well while it worked, and you can always upgrade to a better one.

Alternatively, if you can get a filter to fit the 2.5 gallon, it would make a huge difference for a fish in terms of water quality. It's just that most filters are probably going to be too bulky for that small a tank and too quick of a flow for betta or other small fish. Maybe a sponge filter? I've never used one before but I've heard them recommended a lot for smaller betta tanks.

I use this. It's a very nice color and my guppies have been loving it, it is for planted tanks though. My plants have been loving it aswell. If you'd like me to send you pictures of my setup I can.

Sounds good, thanks for the advice! Yeah, my betta has been a total stud through the Ick infection, the drastic increase in temperature and now the ammonia. I removed just the carbon and left the other filter media- it was a big sac of carbon. It is an Azoo Mignon Palm filter. I will keep up with water changes until the beneficial bacteria build up and reduce feeding in the mean time.

I love it, but I will caution you with the decorations. I had a similar one to the ball one (only in pink), and I took it out because I was worried it would tear mine's fins. It's really rough, and those flow-y fins are super fragile. I stuck to silk or natural plants. I don't think it'll go with your decor, but I got mine a floating betta log and it's his favorite thing ever.

>So as far as I know about cycling you fill the tank with water and wait for ammonia to turn into nitrites and nitrites to turn in to nitrates then from there 25-30% water changes. Is this all good?

Yep, and you'll want to be adding ammonia daily through all that up until you get fish. The tank'll be cycled when you add ammonia and it's converted to nitrates in 24 hours (so ammonia and nitrites are 0, and you have a decent amount of nitrates). Regular water changes during cycling will help to speed it up.

>Should there be only water in the tank during cycling or can I start to add substrate and plants and what not?

Feel free to add everything but the livestock.

>Should I have a filter installed when cycling?

Yes, the vast majority of the bacteria responsible for cycling live in the filter, so you'd have trouble getting anywhere without one. :P

I've got this filter in my 5.5 gallon (don't have a 10), but it looks like there's plenty of reviews of people who use it in their 10g and like it. If I were you though I'd take out the cartridge and replace it with some foam.

Well, they’re root feeder plants, so you will either need a plant specific substrate, or root tabs Seachem Flourish Tabs 10 Count https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255QLG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dQ-ZAbXG42HWD

I personally have one with just sand substrate with root tabs and it’s doing amazing https://imgur.com/gallery/49pX9

I just have an led light that came with a shitty like starter pack aquarium thing and all my plants are doing great. Here are some plants I recommend;

Amazon sword
Anubias
Java fern
Java moss
Hornwort

These are all low light plants and only the amazon sword feeds from the roots, so all the others you could either plant them in regular substrate (gravel or sand) or attach them to something or let them float. Btw tho anubias is a great plant but it has like a kind of bar/divider thing in between the roots and the stems that’s called a rhyzome. If you plant anubias, you have to keep the rhyzome above the substrate.

Your betta would love some floaters. Bettas really like floating hollow logs as well.

Like this one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0027ITKBS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524986297&sr=8-1&keywords=floating+betta+log&dpPl=1&dpID=51JUtrggGCL&ref=plSrch

heater

Light

Test kit Don't get strips, they're inaccurate.


Dechlorinator seems they have the wrong title up but that's what you want. There are other brands as well.

Gravel vac


For substrate, you can just get some play sand since it's really cheap, just have to rinse a few times until the water runs clear.


For plants, aquabid.com has cheap packages and you can check out r/aquaswap.


Read this to learn how to cycle.

Here is the easiest way to cycle.

Cool. Maybe getting a sponge filter is good since it's good to learn other filtering options. It seems like sponge filters need some air pump and airline (please correct me if I am mistaken).

Would the following, airline and pump, be the only additional things I need?
https://www.amazon.com/Penn-Plax-Aquariums-Flexible-Standard/dp/B0002563MW/ref=pd_bxgy_199_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0V8RYSC7JNHZTRN6D913

https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-77851-Whisper-Pump-10-Gallon/dp/B0009YJ4N6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1511318178&sr=8-3&keywords=air+pump+fish

Make sure you're dosing CO2 and nutrients (Flourish contains copper, if you have crustaceans then try this one ).

You can also use a CO2 gas diffuser rather than a carbon-containing liquid. Those setups are more expensive; I don't use one so maybe someone who does could explain how they work, but I hear they're very effective for larger tanks. My tanks are 5.5 G and 20 G and the liquid works fine for me.

You could also try adding inverts that eat decaying plant matter, such as snails and shrimp, if they're compatible with your setup. Also check your water parameters and make sure nothing crazy is going on, though since I assume your fish are fine then that would be my last guess.

Get her going then! LOL

There are cheaper RO units out there but they aren't as efficient or cheap to maintain as the more expensive units. But a cheap RO unit is still better than tap.

$60 RO Buddy

You won't regret the sump, its worth every penny. Allows for stability and places to hide all your equipment. I've ran sumps on all my reefs. Here are some motivation pics and vids.

Old 125 vid

125

Sump

K man, I got the Marineland penguin 350. I'm about as frugal as they come. I got 5 cories, a bristlenose pleco, 8 cherry barbs, 8 cardinal tetras, 8 Rummy nose tetras, and an apisto, and it's been great.

Marineland Penguin Power Filter, 50 to 70-Gallon, 350 GPH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IMDQM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_g3k6Cb1M3QRTZ

Just gotta make sure your water is filled up pretty high. Then it's quiet.

Thank you for the very detailed response!

So far I have only bought a Fluval 25W heater. I am planning to put this in the pump compartment. I hope it will be sufficient. Otherwise I will upgrade to a 50W compact heater. The ambient temperature in my basement can drop to 60F when we are at work on a cold day. 25W might end up being insufficient.

I am waiting for the Spec V to go on sale here in Canada.

You are right about modding the tank. That is a big part of the experience. I would like to buy the upgraded 3rd party media basket but it runs close to $50. I think I will run it with the stock filter except I will swap out the charcoal media out for ceramic on day 1.

My biggest question right now is about lighting. I have been looking at purchasing two Fluval PCL13s. Do you have any experience with that light by any chance? Or should I get the LED light by Fluval? I am not looking forward to cutting pieces out of the lid to make the light fit. But I don't believe there is any way around that...

I got RO Buddie on Amazon. I hook it up in the shower and use 5 gallon water bottles I found at Walmart. It's really amazing how clean the water is! As I have mostly bettas and tetras I remineralize by mixing with my tap water.
https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Reverse-Osmosis-50-Gallon/dp/B00DOG63OY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519119901&sr=8-1&keywords=ro+buddie

Several questions about my 55(ish) gallon freshwater tank:

1. I have a marineland filter ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IMDQM). Right now, it is just using the intake it came with. I am considering getting an under-gravel filter (I was thinking this one? https://www.amazon.com/Undergravel-Filteration-Bottom-Circular-Aquarium/dp/B00ZUIRGOU ) Would it be possible to connect that setup to my current filter? How would I do that?
   
2. So when I replace the filter, I would probably completely overhaul the tank. I currently only have 2 5 gallon buckets; I was thinking that I'd fill those from the existing water and put the fish (I have about 20 guppies, tetras, and other small community fish) into one of the buckets. Would it be safe to have those fish in that bucket for 2-3 days while I let the temperature adjust with the new water? And would adding the 10 gallons of old water to 45 gallons of new (RO filtered) water with some bacteria starter and conditioner be OK?
   
3. I plan to wash the gravel and decorations, clean the tank, rearrange the plants, put in the under-gravel filter, and better position the air stone (a 12 inch bar). Is there anything else I should consider doing at this time?
   
   Note: my biggest problems right now are filthy gravel and a high alkaline and PH that I can't lower.

Lol where are you finding that price? I have a couple of friends that use the RO Buddie and really like it.

I have a 10 gallon tank that is about to be fishless (moving the only inhabitant to a different tank, a small Panda Garra that was in a transitional period to change its diet) and I want to try Shrimp.

• I seem to have a decent grasp on whats required except in regards to filtration. I currently own an Aqueon Quiet Flow 10 and a Topfin Internal Filter 10. If I added a sponge around the intake of the Aqueon, would that work for a shrimp tank or would that be too strong? The Topfin looks nice, but it also takes up space in the tank.
  
  
• I use the tank as a "hospital tank" for plants. I've got some clippings of Anubias, Amazon Sword, Hygrophila, and some Vallisneria. I could easily add some moss to the tank as I heard shrimp like moss.
  
  
• Substrated would probably be EcoComplete as that is what is in the tank right now.
  
  Would this work for some Cherry or Ghost Shrimp?

Current USA Satellite Freshwater LED +
And Timer (sold separately)

http://www.amazon.com/Current-USA-Satellite-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B00C7OTF9E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418682203&sr=8-1&keywords=current+usa&pebp=1418682189836

http://www.amazon.com/Current-USA-Single-Timer-Aquarium/dp/B00FDV1AFA/ref=pd_bxgy_petsupplies_img_y

This is the set up I use for my tank, it still comes on even at the lower light fairly suddenly, but not matter what you do from no light to light will be sudden. If you have the spending money, I'd do the Satellite Freshwater LED + Pro (new model) It has some cool new features the Plus doesn't have. It includes the timer, and auto switches to a moonlight mode after sunset.

Here's a video, if the link doesn't work right, start at just around 1 minute in.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kmhv8mtcz98

Good luck!

I have the stock light that came with the tank and this. That is dwarf hair grass, and the fluval light seems to be strong enough to grow it. Also, thank you. :)

What are you doing to cycle your tank? If you don't know the answer to this question, take a look at the Fishless Cycling Guide to understand the nitrogen cycle and how to properly prepare your tank for animals.

If you don't have a filter in your tank yet, you haven't really begun to prepare the tank for inhabitants until you do. For a sponge filter, you will need a sponge filter, airline tubing, and air pump. I also strongly recommend you purchase check valves and control valves to prevent the airline from becoming a siphon and draining your tank in the event of a power outage or air pump failure, and to control the airflow to your filter, respectively.

The ideal water quality results are 0ppm Ammonia, 0ppm Nitrites, 20ppm or lower Nitrates. Your pH is fine for ADFs. A fully cycled tank should be able to convert 4ppm of added Ammonia to the tank completely to Nitrates within 24hrs. Once you test your water within 24hrs and find this result, it is ready for animals.

ADF names: Frogsby, Frogbert, and Fred.

I used only ZooMed's, it is not marked as betta safe, and even if it was, it should be true: it will not kill betta... See reviews on Amazon for both: logs and betta hammocks.

Interesting. Right now my Betta tank is a pure substrate of black Flourite which the LFS told me was the best for planted tanks.

That tank's about a year old and I've since learned that you're better off mixing the substrate, so my 25g is a mix of black flourite and then some regular stone substrate, I'm not sure if it has a special name.

Am I SOL with that kind of setup unless I resort to CO2 or fertilizers? A total substrate change would be a pretty big job at this point, but if that's what it takes maybe an experiment in the 6g would be a place to start.

Here's a pic of my substrate in the 25g: http://imgur.com/BolXo6o

I have owned 2 SunSun 70x filters over the last few years. While they work great at first eventually they both developed leaks around the top. Both times the leaks started right after a filter cleaning, which I only did maybe every 3-4 months. I spent a lot of time trying to diagnose the leaks but never got anywhere. I wouldn't recommend them unless you're OK with it happening eventually.

After my second one started leaking after a filter cleaning I purchased this one as a replacement. It has been going solid so far and seems to be a higher quality design.

The filter's good! It'd be too stressful to forgo the filter and have to do 100% water changes to keep up.

Awww, pretty! :] Look here or here for the betta log. There are tons of places to find them, though.

FIRST OF ALL: Good on you getting a proper tank for your betta!

Here's what I would do with this tank. Take what you want from it.

Lighting: Finnex Stingray Aquarium LED Light, 20-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NAFQ6FK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_QuphybE4CPE6A

I'd get a timer for the light and set it for 8 hours a day.

Substrate: Flourite Black, 7 kg / 15.4 lbs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0019J0ISU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_nxphybZM3Y2ZD

And add plants. I think moss would be a nice plant to add with that light as well. Maybe every now and then dose some ferts. I think I see a box to which is a filter. So I'll leave out my filter of choice.

If this were my tank for a betta I'd do this (:

http://www.amazon.com/Current-USA-Satellite-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B00C7OTF9E you can probably go with the smallest one.. It only like 77 dollars.. And it's awesome!

Craigslist probably has a good amount of tank options especially in the bay area. San Francisco water should be fairly clean, test it to find out what it is out of tap most people will just use a de-chlorinator water conditioner
or you can get a reverse osmosis machine (RO/DO)

I have found that petco and petsmart actually have decent tank stands and some tanks but just google search aquarium stores in your area here is one but its concord I do not know where in the bay area you are so that may be a long drive.

You may find bowfronts are what you would like if you want depth, otherwise I would just call up places in the area for square acrylic tanks.

I've stopped using aquarium gravel because of this. It may be they are eating the paint off or the paint may be just flaking off.

Before you just "get sand" make sure you know what type it is, some can affect your PH. Natural small stones are a favorite by me. If you want to stay with black, this is an option, and works well with planted tanks.

http://www.amazon.com/Seachem-Flourish-Tabs-10-Count/dp/B000255QLG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1345646737&sr=8-1&keywords=seachem+root+tabs


Basically they are fertilizer for your plants that get nutrients from their root systems. If you use substrates like pool filter sand, plain aquarium gravel, you can use these to help your plant get more nutrients easier and survive. But with you having flourite I don't think you need to spend the extra money on them.

I've got this one in my 5.5g and I've been happy with it. The adjustable aspect is really nice for bettas.

No problem! I'm sure your betta will make it fine through the cycle with some of the old substrate. Betta are pretty tough. Just make sure to do small water changes everyday to keep ammonia and nitrite down.

I got the log off Amazon. My betta uses it often so it was certainly money well spent. If you decide to get it, consider adding this to the cart as well. It is what most people use to test their water and is much more reliable than strips. You can find both the log and the kit at Petsmart but I find that it's cheaper to buy on Amazon.

Do people refer to a specific python product model when they talk about how amazing they are? I have this one and it just seems like a normal old siphon to me

Right now the ammonia is down to 1 ppm- maybe a little over 1 but not as high as 2. That's a great sign.

Maybe I do need a second filter. I'm using this one:

MarineLand Penguin Power Filter, 50 to 70-Gallon, 350 GPH https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009IMDQM/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_PizLBb1DFEXS2

I'm extremely happy with my Current USA LED+ fixture. Seems to be doing OK for my anubias, not sure about other plants.

That filter is rated for aquariums up to 25 gallons.


You said "4ft" tank, so I assume it's a 55g?

You typically want to OVER filter a goldfish tank. They are dirty fish. I don't think adding a sponge filter will be enough to give you Adequate filtration for them.

You would be better off saving up and getting a HOB filter. Maybe check out some of the cyber Monday sales. This one here would work and is pretty cheap right now, there are tons if other good deals going on as well.

In the mean time, just up the frequency of water changes to keep them healthy. If it's just the 2 goldfish, a 30 - 40%
partial once a week should be do it , but you can just test your water to figure out exactly how much/often it's needed.

This is azoo filter. It's very good for small tanks and creates little to no current. I don't want my shrimpies to be pushed around. :)

You could do this filter. I haven't used it myself, but many people use it on the smaller tanks. It should be perfect for a 3 gallon.

Petco currently has a $1 per gallon sale up to 29 gallons, I believe. If you wanted a bigger aquarium now'd be a good time to get a bigger aquarium. Your choice of fish is very limited with a 5 gallon. You can either get a betta or some shrimps.

Take your time and do research. No need to rush. It's always better to do your research and go to a pet store knowing what you want rather than impulsively buying anything. Most pet store staff also generally don't know much more than the average person about fish so take anything they say with a grain of salt.

EDIT: You need an airpump, not an air stone for the sponge filter! That's a really big mistake I made.

These are what I ordered for my 20 gallon aquarium, the size of the air pump is what matters so get a 10 gallon air pump for your 5 gallon aquarium unless you decide to upgrade. I'm also on a budget so these seem to be the best items for those on a budget

Sponge filter:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0051XIN78/ref=psdcmw_2975472011_t2_B005VAFGKI

Air pump:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009YJ4N6/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I35X82DPLWBEQ2&colid=74EPT83Y85GU&th=1&psc=1

Air tubing:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002563MW/ref=pd_aw_fbt_199_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=C7MX7DQQ39GFPW8XDMM3

Hmm, quite the predicament. Here is a solution that might work for you (this is for the goldfish)- go to a local hardware store or tractor supply or landscape store and try to find an all purpose tub, storage tote, or practically any large container, somewhere around 30-50 gallons. Most of these tubs are fish safe, and are very cheap. For filtration use a large sponge filter and pump which are a very cheap and a effective alternative to normal filters. I wouldn’t worry about heat at the moment as this is meant to be temporary, and goldfish can handle it briefly. I wouldn’t but any decorations or substrate in the tub, just leave it bare. This setup is actually widely used in the goldfish hobby, so it’s a great choice.
Here’s the supplies list on amazon for your convenience, but keep in mind you could also go and look for these products cheaper elsewhere and don’t have to be the exact ones

Sponge filter-
Bacto-Surge High Density Foam Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GOFPX9I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_D0G6AbC8B1HRS

Pump-
VicTsing 80 GPH (300L/H, 4W) Submersible Water Pump For Pond, Aquarium, Fish Tank Fountain Water Pump Hydroponics with 5.9ft (1.8M) Power Cord https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EWENKXO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_J2G6Ab01249QW

Air tube-
Penn Plax Airline Tubing for Aquariums –Clear and Flexible Resists Kinking, 25 Feet Standard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002563MW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l3G6AbXFY7BEV

Plastic Tub-
Rubbermaid Commercial FG424300BLA Structural Foam Stock Tank, 50 Gallon Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPBLAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_U5G6Ab4CHSP90

Cycling biology-
Fluval Biological Enhancer for Aquarium, 8.4-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPIZ8Y0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_26G6AbAR5QBRK

IF you plan on getting root tabs I'd recommend finding someone on a forum selling osmocote root pellets, they're a lot cheaper and a lot less mess than say flourish root tabs. If you have shrimp and you are dosing nutrients, be it EI or other ferts like the picture you posted be careful with how much iron you dose because it can kill shrimp, same with copper.

I used this light on my 2.5 gallon and it worked pretty well, it should work fine for a 5 gallon as well.

If I may make a recommendation; buy some of that stuff from amazon. You'll save some money. These are Amazon's prices:

• Aquaclear 50 - $29.60
  
  
• API master test kit - $23.99
  
• Tetra whisper (20gal) - $10.99
  
• 25 feet airline tubing - $5.24
  
  etc
  

You might want to look into buying less dilute conditioner – Aquasafe uses 50ml to treat 100l, API uses 5ml to treat 114l.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/API-Tap-Water-Conditioner-473ml/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1463399045&sr=1-1&keywords=api+tap+water+conditioner

not sure where you're getting your prices. I got two decently reviewed powerheads for $14, a skimmer for $100, $40 for 10lbs of live rock and another $60 for 20lbs of non-live rock.
And then i got your basic run of the mill filter for $30

Got pretty much all of this on amazon. I'm sure the local fish shops would charge up the a$$ for this stuff... Do you think I need any other filtering other than what i'm linking to below?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IMDQM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Coralife-05271-Super-Skimmer-65-Gallon/dp/B000BJNL6A/ref=sr_1_22?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1480323303&sr=1-22&keywords=saltwater+sump

You have bare bottom. That's easier than having a substrate. Use a turkey baster or one of those small siphon. Aqueon Mini Siphon Vacuum Aquarium Gravel Cleaner, 5-Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004RK40VY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IqYPAbFJZ4MEW. Like this one.

Until all that came out was clear water at least 3 times? Because It took me way more than 3 to get clear water .


EDIT. How I did it was.

5g bucket, about 1/6 full of gravel, add water as I stir, pour water out. repeat until water comes out clear a minimum of 3 times. Repeat until it's all done. This is my gravel not sure if it makes a difference.

Okay, so Amazon has this Aquaclear 110. From reading the description, do I really need to replace all 3 media that often? (Carbon every month, foam filter every 2 months, biomax every 3 months) Or like /u/CFHQYH says and I can get away with just rinsing them?

And is there a specific sponge that fits over the intake?

Air pump Air line Filter

Sponge filters really are the best when it comes to shrimp tanks. I would only do a betta if you added a fish, but you also run the risk of the betta eating the shrimp. Ghost shrimp or neocaridina would be great.

To be honest I'm not a big fan of their lights, they are ok. It may be cheaper to get a different clip-on LED or CFL light for such a small system, at low cost.

I use this on Spec V with great success, but there are also much cheaper options available if need be.

That filter is listed as up to 55 gallons. So if you're putting it on a 60 gallon its a bit underpowered.

Looks like even the 55 gallon one only has two media baskets which seems pretty low for a filter for a tank that large. For a similar price you can get a filter rated higher, with higher flow, and more media baskets HERE

The Marineland magniflow in a 55 gallon capacity is also a similar price.

​

As for priming. Do you mean cycling or just getting water into it?

I use these. If you got two, you could have a ton of fish and still maitina great water quality. http://www.amazon.com/Marineland-Penguin-Power-Filter-70-Gallon/dp/B0009IMDQM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418408571&sr=8-1&keywords=350+penguin

Definitely! I don't do co2. I'm pretty low tech. Seachem Flourish Tabs 10 Count

What kind of filter is it? You could buy a smaller one, or buy/make a sponge filter, or make a baffle, there are lots of easy DIY tutorials like this one. You really need a filter though for the good bacteria to colonize. Read up on the nitrogen cycle, it's pretty much the most important part of keeping fish. To make this so much easier a test kit like this one is great. Liquid is best, strip are not very accurate. You can take water samples to fish stores and they will test it for you, but ask if it is liquid or strips and get exact numbers for ammonia, nitrites and nitrates. A Good reading is 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites and more than 0 but less than 20 nitrates.

As for the gravel, get a gravel vacuum. Because you are so over stocked, and are not likely to have completed a cycle, you should be doing lots of partial water changes. Press the vacuum into the gravel to disturb it and suck up the gunk when you do a water change. In a cycled tank that is not over stocked you would only need to do a partial water change one a week or once every 2 weeks.

Another note about the filter, the manufacturer directions will tell you to change the filter pad/media once a month. This is just throwing away all the good bacteria and will reset the cycle. If the filter pad gets really really dirty or is falling apart see if you can't put a second pad in with the first for 2 weeks to let the bacteria colonize the new pad before throwing away the old.

Mine loves this

You could put low light plants

You can take plants out for a couple hours, just put them in a moist bag. I usually buy a large ziplock bag and fill it with a bit of water. They'll last a few days, just make sure they dont dry out.

Honestly I'd just skip the plants and add some decorations for them to hide in or the fake plants. The PAR (photosynthetic active radiation) on that light is so low that your plants will look unhealthy. The hood is just designed to light the tank.

This would work with low light and a micro fert bottle would last you 2-3 years on a 10 gal. Then you could have healthy low light plants that look good.

I'd also throw in a few ghost shrimp (like 4) just to keep things clean. Or 1 Otocinculus,They'll clean your substrate from fish poop and algae. It'll cut your maintenance down a lot which is helpful in dorms lol

Here's the cheapest RO unit I could find. Reviews all seem to be positive too.

Here are some things that may or may not help you grow Wysteria:

• I feed Seachem Flourish liquid ferts once per week (after the weekly water change).
  
  
• I use Seachem Prime to condition new water.
  
  
• I use Fluval Aqualife & Plant LEDs to light my tank. I have them on a 7 hours/day light timer.
  
  Other than that, I don't do anything particularly special. I don't aerate or CO^2 inject. I used Excel once for algae, and it totally melted most of my plants, so I don't recommend it to anyone.
  
  I should note that my tank is a 29 gal.

I always recommend this filter, especially for bettas, since it has a nice, low flow. I use this filter on an aquarium in my bedroom, it's very quiet.

Save yourself the money and buy two of these.

http://www.amazon.com/Current-USA-Satellite-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B00C7OTF9E

Alright that makes a bit more sense, I have an Aqueon Quiet Flow 10 found here http://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-06080-QuietFlow-Filter-100GPH/dp/B000SP65N8
I replaced the blue biological insert at the end with a peice of filter sponge to diffuse the current into the tank and create more biological filtratiion

I can't answer questions on sand maintenance, since I dont have sand in any of my tanks yet. However, I normally get all of my substrates (and the vast majority of everything else) through Amazon.

This is one of the highest rated sands I've seen/heard of. I'm using their gravel in a tank I'm currently cycling, and I would recommend it, so I don't see why their sand would be any different.

It normally takes a day or two longer to ship substrate than normal, even with prime, but the three or four times I've ordered substrate, it's usually ended well.

Edit: Also, only slightly related, I'm not sure how big your tank is, or what your stocking levels are, or your budget, but if you're looking for an affordable canister, the Penn-Plax Cascade 1000 is rated for tanks up to 100 gal, and it's only $70. I have their 500 (up to 30 gallons) for a 20 gallon tank, and it's incredible.

I hear bettas are a good fish for fish bowl, dosent even have to be a fish bowl get one of those small aquarium at wal-mart or so like these, these still give the ecosystem as a big fish tank compressed 10x small and tidy.

The type/wattage of the light depends entirely on what you plan on using the tank for. If it's just a couple fish and low light plants, a simple inexpensive clip on from amazon would work fine.

Something like this would be fine.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004QSV8XK/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1396561296&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40

Or any fluorescent desk lamp should be fine as long as you have fairly low light plants. :)

I used the finnex stingray clip on light and the Azoo palm filter, if you're interested.

Honestly, those internal filters are a PITA, and take up a lot of space in an already small tank.

Look at HOB filters. I prefer canister filters, but for a ten, Go with something like this.

Keep in mind that 15W CFL will produce much more light than a 15W incandescent.

My 5gal has a Fluval PCL13 that works like a charm. It's not a full hood, but it looks rather stylish.

I don't care for Marinelands and would suggest Aquaclears instead. All five of our tanks (plus our quarantine) have Aquaclears and all have been going strong for at least 3 years (a couple are going on five years). Our 125 gallon was purchased from Craigslist and came with Marineland Penguins like those above. IMO, the little biowheel isn't really big enough to make a difference, they're noisier than our Aquaclears and our Aquaclear 110 seemed to move a lot more water than the Penguin. Just my experience but I'd skip it and go for this (check out the gallon per hour rating to find the appropriate size for your tank).

Ah just airline tubing, like this

Just little tabs (think like mentos size) of fertilizer you place in substrate once of month that contains most nutrients plants need!

https://www.amazon.com/API-Root-Tabs-Count-Ounces/dp/B003OYMOWQ

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255QLG/ref=psdc_2975478011_t1_B003OYMOWQ

Ugg yeah I know! I remembered that after set up and I just didn't have it in me to do anything about it. Survival of the fittest this winter - I'll correct it for next time.

I do have the plants planted in this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0019J0ISU?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

One of the first results when using Amazon is this.

Personally I use and can recommend the Dennerle RO system, but I don‘t think they‘re available outside germany.

Depends on the kit. This one is 48 inches that has arms that extend to 60 inches. The standard Current USA Satellite Freshwater LED Light for Aquarium for $59 on Amazon. Or the one I got for by Display tank. $137 https://www.amazon.com/Current-USA-Satellite-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B00C7OTF9E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1493156077&sr=8-2&keywords=satellite+led+aquarium+lighting

this just to make sure nothing is there that shouldn’t be.

Flourish Tabs are the common one but you are just looking for a root feeder tab.

The moss balls will be fine next to the sand.

I say just get a canister, they're pretty simple and do a better job in my experience. I've been using mine for 6 months and no problems

Cascade CCF3UL Canister Filter, 100 Gallon, 265gph https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DJ9NY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bJYpybKQSQWYH

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0027ITKBS/ref=pd_aw_sim_199_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BZB4SV63TNRGAHYRCDMD


Yep.

> Flourish comprehensive is a fertilizer

Exactly this.

/u/battletatics - I thought you were talking about this product: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00025696M

Thanks for the advice. Actually, the tank has been up for 6 months now so it's well cycled. It just need some nitrogen intake, which is quite low since we don't really put any food in. Would this be the flourish fertilizer in question?

I'm sure you heard of this, but just in case you hasn't: http://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-Siphon-Vacuum-Aquarium-Cleaner/dp/B004RK40VY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1450737645&sr=8-5&keywords=aquarium+siphon

Just bought [this one](Python 12PC Small Pro-Clean Gravel Washer and Siphon Kit https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0002APRVK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uEM-ybE1C9B71) and it works well with my sand substrate.

These fake ones are fantastic

The smaller Tetra filters tend to be on the louder side.

You can use this nano HOB on your 3 gallon, and it will also work when you upgrade to the 5 gallon.

You can read the top review for baffling the output for a 3 gallon betta tank, but the short of it is to change the adjustable flow to it's minimum and baffle with extra sponge.

Root tabs.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000255QLG/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1383061838&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

Ferts that I use.
http://greenleafaquariums.com/aquarium-fertilizers-supplements/pps-pro-fertilizer-package.html

You'll need the sponge some airline tubing and an air pump.
Then just hook it up. Different sponge being used by same concept

If you go H.O.B. I'd go for an aquaclear 110.

Here is the desktop version of your link

Definitletly cascade filters, you could get 2 of them with 530 GPH and still be under $150. from what I hear, they are VERY cheap, reliable, and silent once you get the air bubbles out

100 gallon filter, 265 GPH for $67.95

What are your thoughts on this one?

http://www.amazon.com/Cascade®-Canister-Filter-Gallon-Aquariums/dp/B0002DJ9NY

I'll keep an eye on my parameters (as always), but I also have a Penguin 350 that I got with my tank that hasn't been used yet.


Though, I have been thinking of upgrading to a canister.

If I were putting together a 10g this is how I would do it.

Tank will be 15 almost anywhere

http://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-06080-QuietFlow-Filter-100GPH/dp/B000SP65N8

http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=3790

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00343BF9K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1418842474&sr=1-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40&dpPl=1&dpID=41MX4DlHT%2BL&ref=plSrch

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002DVYCJO/ref=s9_simh_hm_b3FMiYF_d0_g199_i18

Beta log: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027ITKBS/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_HzTVAbSXTKKHK

They will need a 60-75 gallon tank asap i will include a link below on how to cycle a aquarium. All water for fish must be treated to remove chlorine you can get a bottle of liquid to do this online or at a local pet store.



https://www.amazon.com/API-CONDITIONER-Aquarium-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B004LO9KSY web link for stuff to remove chlorine

https://fishlab.com/how-to-cycle-aquarium/ how to cycle a aquarium

Here is the mobile version of your link

Azoo Mignon 60

yea divide it, keep in mind bettas do jump, or buy a really cheep 2.5 gallon tank. http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-29095-Cube-Aquarium-3-Gallon/dp/B008CA7W7E/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1426133030&sr=1-1&keywords=aquariums

http://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-17771-Desktop-Aquarium-Black/dp/B00404FLME/ref=sr_1_23?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1426133030&sr=1-23&keywords=aquariums

This is the one I use:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00AWV4R8I/ref=sxts_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499894440&sr=1&th=1&psc=1

This is the sponge I put over the return:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01CDFU9SW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499894519&sr=8-3&keywords=fluval+sponge

I got this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AWV4R8I
I adjusted the flow down to about 25% of full power but I think I'll bring it up a little bit.

Deep Blue Professional ADB88700 Biomaxx Nano Filter for Aquarium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BUFTI6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_TRvavb1BCPAVP

There are a couple companies selling essentially the same little filter. They all come out to about this price once you include shipping.

Way too much. Use a deep blue nano filter. More than enough for a shrimp tank. I have 2 zoomed nano canisters and the flow is too much. I use one on my 13 gallon guppy tank and it blows my fry around.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BUFTI6Q?pc_redir=1409141855&robot_redir=1

https://www.amazon.com/Current-USA-Satellite-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B00C7OTF9E

Current USA satellite Pro Plus or Current USA's ELOOP systems.


https://www.amazon.com/Current-USA-Satellite-Plus-Light/dp/B00QVHJQD8

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7OTF9E/

https://www.amazon.com/Current-USA-4107-60-Orbit/dp/B01M5E1MS0/

If you're wanting to go LED, Finnex and Current USA have some reasonably priced options for planted tanks.

Finnex Planted+ 24/7

https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-Planted-Automated-Aquarium-Controller/dp/B00U0HMX1C/ref=pd_lpo_199_bs_t_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GM7WVDS69NC1XTGSX537

Current USA Satellite LED+

https://www.amazon.com/Current-USA-Satellite-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B00C7OTF9E

This one?

Finnex StingRAY LED Clip Light for Aquarium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LMH10HC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aCs8Ab0HYKVSW

> clip light

https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-StingRAY-Clip-Light-Aquarium/dp/B00LMH10HC

This one?

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/Finnex-FugeRay-Aquarium-Moonlights-Cliplight/dp/B00LIL7YPE/ref=pd_sim_199_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=31ctlpwpY4L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&psc=1&refRID=G7H0VG12VZNM01QP4M2J

Is this better?

Finnex Clip Light

Additives need to go in BEFORE. If you read about cycling you know these beneficial bacteria everywhere in the gravel. The chlorine in tap will kill the bacteria and you will have to restart the cycle. I usually test water before I would do a water change to make sure it's needed and im on track.

You need to replace the water because if you cycled correctly there will be nitrate in the water. Nitrate although less harmful than ammonia and nitrite is still bad for your fish. Nitrate is the final step and need to be taken out. That way when you take 25% of the water out, you take 25% of the toxins out. It is absolutely necessary to dechlorinate and do water changes. Heres one of the best dechlorinator on the market http://www.amazon.com/API-Tap-Water-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1458091429&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=aqueon+dechlorinator

ONCE AGAIN Dechlorinator and water changes every weeks are absolutely necessary...

Plant fertilizer in tablet/tab form. Pop them near the root base into the gravel. It feeds the plant. Lasts 3-4 months before you need to pop a new one in.

https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-Flourish-Tabs-10-Count/dp/B000255QLG/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480301975&sr=sr-1&keywords=flourish+tabs

Im going to guess no, that doesn't mean 40gal, because they don't have a 40gal option I can find and why would they include 0?

Amazon has a comparison chart with dimensions, perhaps that will get you in the right direction.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000SP65N8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BnGxDbHK4ESVA

If you're looking for that exact one it comes with aqueon water siphons. The sell the whole siphon and clip (which looks to be updated and new) on amazon as an add on item. It looks to be an add on item. No clue where you can buy the clip on it's own.

Siphon and clip

I still have a bucket of gravel that was in with them but it's also got a ton of feces and gunk mixed in it. I was just going to throw it away because I got some sand to replace it but I guess I could rinse it off? I have their bigger rocks sitting in some bleach water with the air pumps because they are covered in algae.


https://www.amazon.com/Aqueon-06080-QuietFlow-Filter-100GPH/dp/B000SP65N8/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1487887023&sr=1-4&keywords=AQUArium+filter this is the filter

I have two Cascade 1000 canister filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DJ9NY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_B-mYDbXM8GERE

It states it cycles 265 GPH but I believe it depends on the amount of media you run inside the canister and overtime the flow decreases.

They have other models the 1200 and 1500 which state it cycles up to 350 GPH but those don't fit in my cabinet.

I've read that cutting back to 8 hours is great for hurting algae growth.
http://www.amazon.com/Seachem-116051309-Flourish-500ml/dp/B00025696M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404761803&sr=8-1&keywords=seachem+flourish

I've also read dosing that will just kill off most algae within a week or two.

Hey I'm looking to get started. I came across two Betta fish from a friend. Awful condition. Tiny tank, no filter, no heat, no light. I'm planning to give one away and buy a tank on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008CA7W7E/ref=s9_simh_gw_d0_g199_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-1&pf_rd_r=1S17GHMD53Z8M6HXA2Z6&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=2068141862&pf_rd_i=mobile

Sorry in advance. I'm on my phone. I'm a teenager so money isn't exactly infinite. I was wondering if this was a good deal of not. Tips and advice would be nice too.

If you don't add potassium your plants will be yellowing and have pin holes in them fertilizer is important and fish waste doesn't provide every thing plants need. I'd advise dosing seachem flourish and seachem potassium

if you decide to get plants other than anubias then you should dose seachem excel

P.S. you don't have to use seahem brand ferts

Like this? http://www.amazon.com/Python-Pro-Clean-Aquarium-Gravel-Washer/dp/B0002APRVK/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1425940229&sr=1-4&keywords=python+siphon#Ask

I didn't know you could add dechloronator after the fact, I've been doing it beforehands. Should I be concerned about my fish getting sucked up! They're quite small.

I have crushed black gravel and I could see it being something I'd enjoy to an extent.