(Part 3) Top products from r/Archery

Your main question:

You are off to a fantastic start, but I would like to make a small suggestions. The Sf Axiom are nice and all, but I would HEAVILY recommend spending a couple more dollars to get the Sf Premium plus. The quality jump is absolutely fantastic, and the preform much better per dollar spent. In terms of riser the Sf Archery Axiom Plus Lite is probably the best pick for a beginner, which.. you.. already.. picked.. out... ok that works.. Anyways 30# Sf Premium limbs medium + 25" light would be your 68" bow you wanted. Together they cost about 339.98, which is a bit over your price point you mentioned.

Other Stuff:

In terms of maintence pick up some string wax, I prefer this stuff on my competition bow. (You can find it here also). I would also recommend having a couple spare rest, on that note the hoyt super rest is all I use. Nothing sucks more than not having a back-up rest so you can shoot your bow. The hoyt super rest will be your friend from quite some time, and their performance is legendary.

Edit: if you have to pick between getting the "better riser" or the "better limb", I would pick the limb. In a perfect world a sf premium limb + the axiom lite riser is a fantastic combination, but we both know that it does not always work like that. Mind you the Sf Axiom riser is not bad, but the quality jump in limbs I think would be very important to you. I think there is a 25" version of the sf axiom riser, but I do not know where to find it. If you do get the 23" get a set of 30# long sf preimium limbs. The only difference you will see, with the long limbs, is that the draw feels smoother, but the arrow flies slightly slower.

His form isn't terrible, it's different-- it's an old school style developed more for a hunting situation where you likely had to take a shot from uneven ground, or from behind a bush, or from a tree, or prone, or on your back. Longbow hunting forms focus mostly on versatility and being just accurate enough to put an arrow in the kill zone

When it comes to longbow shooting, there are certain things that translate from Target shooting:

1. Solid footwork-- as Byron Fergison says, every good shot is built from the ground up. The longbow stance is a little wider than a target stance but you still need to be in line, at least for standing shots
   
   
2. Consistent draw-- hunting longbow stances have a different full-draw-form, but their draw needs to be consistent every time
   
   
3. The follow through-- hold the bow steady until the arrow hits the target. No flinching, no plucking, hand locked against the face (his anchor might be a little different. I'll get more into that later)
   
   
4. Consistency in grouping/shooting
   
   
5. ENCOURAGEMENT-- a positive attitude is a must for anyone who is learning instinctive shooting
   
   
   These are things that will not translate from target shooting:
   
   
6. The swing draw-- longbow shooters with heavier bows will have a different "closed" form than a target/recurve archer (think: upright olympic rifle stance vs. military combat stances).
   
   
7. You don't need to hold the bow at draw for as long (because the swing draw, done correctly, will put you in the correct form)
   
   
8. bow canting: It's personal preference. More cant = better field of view = more focus on the target. However much he cants the bow, make sure that his eye is in line with the arrow shaft. Each longbow shooter has their own optimal angle for bow canting, he'll discover it on his own after a while
   
   
9. The anchor point: I'm not sure what you use as an anchor point, but most hunting longbow forms anchor above the chin, usually pressed against the face. This gets the arrow closer to the eye and allows the archer to either consciously or subliminally sight down the arrow. The anchor point needs to be fixed for hunting forms-- no string walking or anchor point raising/lowering, just a consistent draw and anchor each time
   
   Archers you'll want to refer him to:
   -Howard Hill
   -Fred Bear
   -Will Young and Saxon Pope
   -Byron Ferguson
   
   Books:
   Hunting the Hard Way (Howard Hill):
   http://www.amazon.com/Hunting-Hard-Way-Howard-Hill/dp/1568331460/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412751131&sr=8-1&keywords=hunting+the+hard+way+howard+hill
   
   Become the Arrow (Byron Ferguson):
   http://www.amazon.com/Become-Arrow-On-Target-Series/dp/091330509X/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412751154&sr=8-1&keywords=Become+the+Arrow
   
   Hunting with the Bow and Arrow (Saxton Pope):
   http://www.amazon.com/Hunting-Bow-Arrow-Saxton-Pope/dp/1497520010/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412751194&sr=8-1&keywords=Saxton+Pope
   
   The Witchery of Archery (Maurice Thomspon):
   http://www.amazon.com/The-Witchery-Archery-Maurice-Thompson/dp/1446528197/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412751234&sr=8-1&keywords=witchery+of+archery
   
   There are many videos on Youtube of Howard Hill, like this one:
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zo8UZneuggE
   
   and some very good instructional videos:
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=98fuYYD5LOM
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nJKOZ6KfRRs
   
   and some very bad ones too... Stick with the videos of people who were famous archers. Howard Hill is my favorite for reasons you'll see in the Cavalcade of Archery film, but anyone who's an established trick shooter or a renown hunter can also be trusted sources of knowledge
   
   The key to longbow shooting is that there is no one right way, there's only what works for the archer. It's a lot of experimentation, a lot of failing, but eventually he will learn what will work out best mechanically for him. He will need to take note of the different forms (including target style shooting) and take pieces of what works well for him-- just don't be offended if he doesn't do exactly what you want him to do because the longbow and the recurve are very different beasts.
   
   But above all, encouragement and always having a positive attitude is going to be the best thing. If he's self taught, it's likely he already knows how to take pieces of different forms and adapt it to his own needs (so yes, yo should definitely be teaching him Target shooting form stuff), but having someone to bounce ideas off of or even note when their elbow is low or they're shaking is a huge help, but above all encouragement is going to be the best thing you can do

So same situation as you. Wanted a good hobby that I could learn, and get better with as a skill, but kind of tight on cash.

I picked up this bow. You can't use it for hunting as the draw weight is only 25lbs at its highest. But if you just want to do some target practice for fun. Great bow.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001M4C2O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_YTkoybV9YTA9T

Before I bought a bow I went to a local range and tried archery to know for sure if I actually liked it and also got a little beginners class on form and practice.

I got some arrows, a field target bag for my back yard, and a metal drop away arrow rest (the plastic ones break like right away).

I probably spent about $275 but haven't spent a dime since.

I love to go out back and relax and shoot. I listen to a podcast, play some music. Love that I can do something outdoors that is relaxing.

Highly recommend.

Depending on where you are located, I would personally recommend scouting around for a local archery shop to frequent. It may be a little more expensive to buy from the local shop as opposed to Cabelas, but you'll benefit in the long run.

I'd also check to see if there are any local archery clubs on your area as well. You can be a member of 4-H Shooting Sports up until the age of 21. Otherwise, you might want to ask the local archery shop what options are available in your area.

I'd highly recommend getting a copy of "The Bowhunter's Guide to Accurate Shooting" by Lon E. Lauber. It's a couple of years old, but has a wealth of information in it. I found a copy at the local library if you don't want to buy your own copy.

Mapping Trophy Bucks is one of my favorites. Despite the title, it applies equally to hunting does or bucks. It's really a manual for learning how to hunt the landscape, and thinking in terms of landscape/terrain influencing deer behavior. This concept plays a big role in the way I hunt and can really help you consistently get on deer.

Same authors so similar ideas, but either/both of these books: Bowhunting Whitetails, or Precision Bowhunting. The second in particular gives you a year-round approach to hunting, which is really what distinguishes good hunters from the rest. The best hunters I know are already thinking and planning for next year as soon as this year's season ends.

I second the butt out tool. Surprised that it isn't mentioned here more. Now I can't imagine gutting without one. Keep it in your bag in a big ziploc bag. Then it's the first thing you do. It's easy to do. Basically you're just pulling the entire rectum out of the animal so you don't have to worry about it when you're dressing. It's great. It's going to get a little nasty, so you just put it back in the bag.

Also - no one has really talked about full length field dressing gloves. They make HUGE difference. You're covered all the way up to your shoulder. They make it a lot easier to focus on what you actually need to be doing instead of focusing on how you don't like how it feels. The Vicks Vapor rub is a great tip too. I don't use it anymore but it was a life saver when my Dad said, "Ok, it's time for you to start doing this yourself." I actually had Vicks in a contact case in my pack ready to go because I knew that one year soon he'd say that.

Happy to see how supportive this discussion is. Hunters don't talk about it much and you get a lot of man up nonsense when the topic comes up. The truth is that we all went through it and most of us were surprised at how nasty it was when we actually had to get in there vs. watching our fathers or mothers do it. Every meat eater should have to dress an animal at least once in their life in my opinion.

No worries man, again sorry if I came off like an ass.

I'm looking at this sight

http://www.amazon.com/Trophy-Ridge-Sharp-Shooter-Sight/dp/B003C7WQ2S/

It seems to be pretty nice and it's a 3 pin.

There's a 5 pin with a light that's the same price and I've seen others use it on a martin recurve but that seems like a LOT of tech to deal with and tune

http://www.amazon.com/TRUGLO-Brite-Site-Xtreme-Sight-Light/dp/B000H4RP5W

As for the rest, I've got a center cut riser so I think this would work

http://www.amazon.com/New-Archery-Quiktune-Arrow-Righthand/dp/B0000AVDC8/

But I see what you're saying about the stick on rest with a button or something maybe.

I didn't even know about the clicker, so that will definitely help with keeping a routine draw. Thanks for that.

You're going to have to decide if you want to approach it from a modern or traditional standpoint. I shoot recurve competitively, so the links I'll provide will be focused on modern recurve bows.

Archerytalk, a popular forum

FITA's youtube channel. They upload VODs from every major event they can

Technical resources:

The Easton tuning guide

Texas archery keeps a list of useful links and documents. It's a mashup of things, but sometimes the tuning and instructionals are useful. [In particular, the recurve reference guide.]
(http://www.texasarchery.org/Documents/ArchersReference/archref_05.pdf)


Form and technique:

The basics. This is what we teach absolute beginners at my club.

Total Archery. A very advanced and very significant book. Countries have created entire coaching programs based around the teachings of the book's author.

Precision Archery

Zen in the Art of Archery

Do not listen to ApertureLabs. Besides the fact that he so easily insults the most popular type of archery in the modern world, he's also plain wrong. You don't need textbook form, but it is important that beginners understand the basic reasoning behind using proper muscle groups, stance, grip, balance, and joint orientation. Developing your own technique without guidance will always lead to bad habits because a lot of the above does not come naturally to someone who picks up a bow for the first time. Shrugged shoulders, puffed chests, and floating anchors are all common ailments of beginners who come to my club with no coaching, all of which are difficult habits to shake and impede your ability to improve.

Here are some links
They should give you some guide to what you are looking for. The fletching kit is rather nice and cheap. (i have one) it works great!

The arrows there are carbon and aluminium variants. I own the aluminium variant and they work fabulously.

The tab is another must have or get yourself a shooting glove


http://www.amazon.com/Bohning-Class-Fletching-Straight-Clamp/dp/B0000AVE3W/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407609711&sr=8-2&keywords=fletch+jig


http://www.amazon.com/NuoYa001-Aluminum-feather-40-55lb-Compound/dp/B00K4MNMX6/ref=sr_1_68?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1407609797&sr=1-68

http://www.amazon.com/NuoYa001-Carbon-Streamlined-Feathers-Longbow/dp/B00H8KX32C/ref=sr_1_133?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1407609832&sr=1-133

http://www.amazon.com/Archery-Cowskin-Finger-Shooting-Protector/dp/B00LBU0YKE/ref=sr_1_30?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1407609886&sr=1-30&keywords=archery+tab

Have her try a release aid such as http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Company-Caliper-Release-T-Strap/dp/B000265SMW/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1373762329&sr=1-5 I'm not sure if it would be better or worse, but its worth a try. I believe you will need a D loop on your bow string. I am pretty knew to archery as well, so I'm just doing my own research.

Oooh oooh ooh, [Byron Ferguson's Become the Arrow] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Become-Arrow-On-Target-Series/dp/091330509X/ref=pd_sim_b_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0TCA8CRDMQBYP95760YE) is great!

Aswell as the Beginner's Guide to Traditional Archery :)

I would highly recommend this book for anyone looking to study Kyudo. It was the book I was given by my instructor and it really helped me improve my technique.

Hey just to make sure im getting the right stuff, is this the NAP rest youre talking about?

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0000AVDCH/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1

How can I know for sure that this will screw in properly in the Satori?

I am not a pro.

For 3 you could do dowel rods, just pick the ones that are straightest.

To make arrows I use:

$5 hacksaw to cut length
$2 4-in-1 file to smooth edges
$8 utility knife for tapering
Gorilla crazy glue or http://amzn.com/B0009TUDRW

Then you're looking at arrow materials:
Few cents for a dowel rod, make sure they are straight by either eyeballing it or rolling them on a flat surface.

You could go and make your own arrow heads, fletching, and nocks
Some sheet metal, feathers, and creativity.
But it's a little easier to order from a cheap website.

To add to that list:

For something philosophical/religious:

• Zen in the Art of Archery
  
  If they're fascinated by the construction of traditional bows and arrows:
  
  
• The Traditional Bowyer's Bible, Vol. 1
  
• The Traditional Bowyer's Bible, Vol. 2
  
• The Traditional Bowyer's Bible, Vol. 3
  
• The Traditional Bowyer's Bible, Vol. 4

Don’t laugh, but this one has been a fantastic hunting sight for me. It’s inexpensive and built like a freaking tank. I don’t think you’ll be able to find another sight at the price that has micro click adjustment.

https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Compound-Tool-Less-Detachable-Bracket/dp/B07V2Y4SNX/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?keywords=Archery+5+pin+sight&qid=1564353126&s=gateway&sr=8-14

Edit: I’m a moron. Forgot to add the link.

I didn't read it, but I saw a [video] ( http://youtu.be/_V7GwuwiTV8) where this guy made arrows based off the instructions in the [book] (http://www.amazon.com/Hunting-Bow-Arrow-Saxton-Pope/dp/0554318415) Hunting With the Bow and Arrow