(Part 3) Top products from r/Cartalk

If you get 2 to 3 full turns (360 degrees * 2 to 3) before you hit resistance, you probably didn't crossthread them, you probably hit some crud in the threads.

http://amzn.com/B0009OMYCO is a handy tool to clean up the spark plug threads before you thread the plug in, but you have to be very careful not to cross thread that tool. Also, have the end covered in grease when you use it, to capture all the crud that you get out of the threads. The best way to use it is to turn it backwards (lefty loosey) until it clicks straight, then start turning it in. That works for both the spark plugs and the thread chaser.

(OP's post is going to get removed whenever one of the mods shows up, since /r/CarTalk is not Car Talk, but just for specific repair questions. Before that happens, does anyone know of a subreddit with an attitude more in keeping with the Car Talk namesake?)

OP: Some folks have suggested tire inflating foam. I carry a plug kit and a cheap battery-driven compressor like this. You can find a cheaper alternative pretty easily online. Keeping the compressor around reminds me to top off my wheels regularly, whereas foam can only be used in emergencies.

I also keep a couple of water bottles, a sleeping bag, and a pair of those "hot hands" things in my trunk in case of getting stranded, although that's probably not very necessary in your area.

Have you removed the intake manifold yet?

If so, is there any bolt left sticking up? If that's the case step 1 is vise grips (which will work unless the bold has corroded into the block/lower intake manifold/whatever it's bolted to) and step two would be a multi-spline extractor like these.

That's pretty much the way to do it. Trying to drill and not screw up threads is going to be pretty dicey.

Ok in your case go buy this.
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2

Put a dab of it in each spark plug wire side. Or where the coil boot goes onto the spark plug if you have coil on plug instead of a coil and spark plug wires.

While each plug is exposed, pull it and check the spark plug gap. I don't know your vehicle but you can guickly Google what the gap should be. Adjust to that if it's way larger. If it's smaller like ". 035 like how most are sent from the factory. Don't worry and reinstall them.

This is all step one before you move on to vacuum leaks.

Six to ten months isn't a terribly long time.

Top off the fuel tank. Make sure the tires are inflated well (to near the maximum specified on the sidewalls). No need to worry about flat spots on modern tires in a year's storage.. Then your best bet is to put the battery on a battery tender:

https://smile.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-lightweight-automatic/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500037320&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+tender+jr

If you don't have access to power where it's parked and have someone that can look after it, you could do a solar float charger (someone will have to keep the snow off of it if it is going to work).

You can also take the battery out and put it on a float charger inside, but that's the least convenient option if there's a chance anybody might need the car.

Make sure you do not store it with the parking brake on. The rear pads will rust/fuse to the rotors and it can be a huge pain to free them up.

Check to make sure you have the spare tire, and that it's inflated properly, there should be a jack and a tire iron(wrench?) as well.

I also suggest the following:

If you have a smartphone: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004B7YXOM/ (Lets you read codes off any OBDII car. Fun for friends and family too.) Keep in glovebox.

A cigarette outlet powered tire inflator: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ENQRD2/ or http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002ZBWKAU/ (I have the first one and it works as advertised). Keep in trunk.

Also I don't know how the 2012 system works for music and navigation, but integration with your smartphone is very nice for music and nav.

(purely cosmetic and expensive.) Also look up vinyl wrapping if you're bored. Protects your paint job while you're at it :P

Take a good long highway cruise to burn off moisture build up in oils.

Pro Tip: a battery maintainer is better for your vehicle (especially the engine) than starting and idling to charge the battery.

That sounds like rod knock to me because it's consistent with engine RPM. Do not go on a road trip with the engine like that. The chances of being stranded are high.

If you're looking to more precisely locate the noise, you can purchase a stethoscope . You leave the engine running and probe around. It will be obvious which area is making the noise once as you place the probe in the right area. If it's loudest on the oil pan under the car then it's likely the rod bearings. At that point you'll be scraping the car or getting a reman engine.

https://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-640582-Mechanics-Stethoscope/dp/B004KEHGZY/

Dont buy a harbor freight torque wrench. I bet your hand is more accurate. Seriously, HF stuff is just a waste of money.

If you want to own one, spend a little bit more and have some patience. This one will do and its only $40.

If you dont want to spend $40, go to Autozone and rent one for free. You pay them the price of the wrench and then bring it back in 48 hours for a full refund. It a program they started to stop people from buying and returning tools all the time and its great. I think O'Riley has something similar too.

Do you mean a set like this?

Is a caliper set like this decent? Spending 4x on the jack quickly pushed me towards the upper end of my budget. If it's not an okay replacement I can just spring an extra $20 for the Harbor Freight one.

I use the following with Torque Pro (android) via bluetooth. Works great.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KLZCVGU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just pick up a gator grip socket.. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000065CJ8

That's what I use for scenarios like yours. They have them at Sears and places like that that sell tools.

I recently purchased one of these handy little gadgets that help me determine intermittent no start issues. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVWDU0/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You plug it in before starting to get an idea of the level your battery is at, while starting and cranking. Also, you can get a GENERAL idea of battery drain by checking level when you turn car off and checking next morning before starting. Best way is for a shop to hook a test light in the circuit to represent battery draw. However, a minute draw is normal as well. Have you installed anything aftermarket like alarms, amplifiers, or have anything hooked to your cigarette lighter? Anything weird youve noticed with lighting? Also, if you do not connect a boost box, charger, or anything and let it sit, will it start back up later? Also, when the problem occurs and the engine "gives up" do the lights dim down and it starts doing multiple clicks?

Amazon and eBay are full of knockoff ELM327 ones that work about the same. I've got this one, and it works fine but I don't like how far it sticks out from the ODB2 port. So this one might be better?

Try Aero Kroil instead of PB Blaster, or try a 50/50 mixture of acetone and transmission fluid. A long, six-point box end wrench will work well to unscrew the sensor. Then use one of these to clean up the threads in the HO2S bung.

Leave the positive alone and disconnect the ground. Also if your are going to leave the vehicle sitting for extended periods you should get a quick disconnect. Something like this http://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0122Q83T4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is the kit I use every single day. Has every single adapter and both forward and reverse thread inserts. $20 to never have this problem again. Sold my Bluepoint kit for this because this one was better.

At 21 seconds, middle of the frame just above the tire, see that part moving? Hit it with something like this. https://www.amazon.com/3M-08897-Silicone-Lubricant-Type/dp/B000PJED72 I would even try wd40, or even plain water. Apply lubrication and listen for a change in the sound.

That sound is rubber squeaking. Any place that moves and has rubber is a canditate for that noise. Spray all the things.

This will find your problem and solve it short term. Maybe once every few months lube it again. Replace the part once you find it is the long term solution.

Something like these will probably work. If not, you may need to weld a nut to it and turn it with a wrench.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL0RU/

I like this one, as you end up with more stuff in the 10-150lb range than you do the 25-225 lb range.

You can try a lugnut removal tool like this:

http://amazon.com/Performance-Tool-M980-Emergency-Removal/dp/B000FTN3KK?sa-no-redirect=1

Literally just did this right before I saw your post. I have access to it now! Now I just need to find the part somewhere in Canada and we should be golden :)

As posted above by another redditor, would this be correct? http://www.amazon.com/Tridon-EP27-Flasher/dp/B000JZ33H8

If I use the amazon tool it says it doesn't fit, but I read others have had that same issue.

PICTURES OF THE OEM FLASHER IN MY SUNFIRE: http://imgur.com/vb3izXW,Uid6dnF

This one. been working fine for the last 2 years or so.

I'd just get it on amazon, http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/

I have a couple mechanic stethoscopes out in my garage if you wanna come borrow one.

You can get an ODBII scanner for less than $20 that works on Android btw. [OBDii Bluetooth Car Diagnostic Scan Tool] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T5G53ZM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AR6Zzb4ZQAC1V)

Headlight Sealer

In my experience, it lasts at least a year.
This sealer made it last an additional year, but it still yellowed again.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0051PJWQW/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_.wCDDb9E95EAM

There are multiple sizes available on Amazon, here's one example . Just stick on the oil pan, and maybe one under your battery.

Ya. For instance here is a power non heated mirror for your car.

Here. Note that this is power, but not heated. You could also check a junkyard.

You mean one of these?
http://www.amazon.com/Post-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N729FS

Ask your dealer if that $150 includes KY or whether that costs extra, too. If you can open a can by yourself, you can install one in about 5 minutes. You just need a wrench (or socket) that fits the nut on your car's battery terminal (the black wire that attaches to the battery).

That's close, that's actually a relay which is just a little different. This should be the flasher that fits your car.

These might work for you. They basically have threads which cut into the outside of the nut to remove it.

If they don't work, you can always drill out the stud. It sucks, and takes forever, but it works without damaging your wheel.

I suggest a block heater like this.

Kat's 24150 150 Watt 4"x 5" Universal Hot Pad Heater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I8TQD6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VPSyCb9VMC6PP

I had a similar problem and this saved the day for me: http://www.amazon.com/Pops-dent-Dent-Repair-Popper/dp/B0015D88U0

It is cheap and easy to try, so you don't have much to loose.

First thing I would try is getting one of these universal socket dealies and seeing if it will remove that broken socket piece.

http://www.amazon.com/Gator-Grip-ETC-200MO-Universal-Socket/dp/B000065CJ8

Eh, actually that's not that deep, but it is where I thought it would be. The poppers work on a flat surface here's one of the kits. You're headed to a body shop. Sorry, man/ma'am.

Or just live with it. That's not something I would change, but then I live in a congested urban area where everyone parks on the street and every car has dings much worse than that.

Some of the things like the CEL/VSC are just from disconnecting the battery.

In general I would look VERY closely at the battery and alternator whether the BATT light was on or not. If possible get a cigarette-lighter voltage monitor. In some cases an intermittent battery short or bad voltage regulator in the alternator can cause gremlins like this.

https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3721-Battery-Charging-Monitor/dp/B000EVWDU0

I assume when it 'doesn't start' it's cranking but not starting?

First thing to try is feed some starter fluid through the brake booster line. If it runs briefly on starter fluid, then you have spark but potentially no injector pulse or fuel pressure.

If it does run on starter fluid, then I would monitor for injector pulse with a noid light. If no injector pulse, then crank sensor would be the first stop.

If the tach stays pinned at zero when cranking, that's a sign you have no crank signal.