(Part 2) Top products from r/Ceramics

Jump to the top 20

We found 20 product mentions on r/Ceramics. We ranked the 38 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.

Next page

Top comments that mention products on r/Ceramics:

u/Kclawes · 2 pointsr/Ceramics

My suggestion, pick up one of the books by John Britt based on how you fire:

Mid-Range Glazes : https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide-Mid-Range-Glazes-Ceramics/dp/1454707771

High-Fire Glazes: https://www.amazon.com/Complete-Guide-High-Fire-Glazes-Ceramics/dp/1600592163

These books are GREAT beginners bibles. He describes all of the equipment you need, what all of the various glaze components actually do, how to do various tests, and a HUGE collection of great glazes with photos.

I'm pretty good at reading articles and putting things together, but his books really opened my eyes, and for the low cost of the books, I think anyone who wants to learn about glazes is foolish to not buy them.

When I do tests, I do 100g batches. I make my test tiles on the wheel, about 3 inches high. Then, I'll apply it to my tile in various thicknesses. Lastly, I'll do a bunch of other tests where I see what it is like when it's layered with other glazes that I have. So one new glaze usually results in about 12 test tiles. I try to do at least one set of tiles every time I do a glaze firing.

I also stamp a serial number into each tile and keep notes in a log book - this is very important! Then, I put all the "ugly" ones into a box for future review, in case my aesthetics change. All of the nice ones, I hang from a small rack on my wall.

u/allthegoo · 5 pointsr/Ceramics

Sell the wheel and clay. You aren't going to use them in your apartment and they'll just sit around and take up space, are a pain to move around and every time you see them you'll feel like you abandoned your hobby. Sell them and take the money and enroll in a class or get access to a proper studio you can use. You can always buy another wheel and clay in the future when things settle down.

Btw, there is no harm in not touching clay for a while. It's like when you learned to ride a bike, you'll always remember how to throw. Yeah, you will be a bit wobbly for a bit but you'll pick it up.

To keep your creative juices flowing, I suggest that in lieu of clay you consider picking up a pencil and learn to draw. Go buy the workbook for Drawing on the Right Side of your Brain (https://www.amazon.com/Drawing-Right-Side-Brain-Workbook/dp/1585429228) and give it a try. Not only will it improve your drawing skills for pottery ideas but it will teach you how to see as an artist, an extremely valuable skill.

u/AuntChilada · 2 pointsr/Ceramics

I think that sculpting portraits in low relief (bas relief) is actually harder than doing a bust. Here is a short tutorial giving the basics on bas relief and there's a bunch on sculpting a face There's a book out there that's pretty good about sculpting the face in clay

u/_douglas · 1 pointr/Ceramics

Nothing works real well long term that I have found. If you hand wash and are careful this product might help you get some more use out of your mug.

https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-E1012-China-Cement-1-Ounce/product-reviews/B000MVTINW

u/[deleted] · 2 pointsr/Ceramics

If you google sculpting the human figure in clay you will get quite a few hits.

My personal favorite is anything by Bruno Lucchesi. You can find a few of his videos on YouTube. His book "Modeling the Figure in Clay", while a bit sparse on details, served me very well in college.

For anatomy, a copy of "Grays Anatomy" would not be remiss, however, I prefer Stephen Rogers Peck's "Atlas of Human Anatomy for the Artist"

u/theotherghostgirl · 1 pointr/Ceramics

You need to buy glazes, which depending on how much variation you want is probably going to cost you anywhere from 10-20 dollars a per color if you want the expensive stuff, however you can probably buy a set of 12 underglazes for about 47 dollars and a pint of clear glaze for about 10.

If you go this way, it's pretty similar to painting regularly, all you have to do is slap a few coats of clear glaze on it after you have the design on it and find a ceramics studio that will fire it, the place where I live charges about 2 dollars a pound for each peice or about 60 dollars to rent an entire kiln.

Here's some underglaze sets and a clear glaZe you could use, but you should check the nearest studio to see if they have any discount glazes
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0044SATSM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1415905256&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003IGIDR0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1415905406&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0044S97QW/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?qid=1415905420&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

u/hotHSmathteacher · 1 pointr/Ceramics

I got a book a few semesters into taking and found it helpful for a lot of what I did in class. It has instructions for skills of all levels and each skill had an accompanying project to practice with. It has handbuilding and throwing projects.

http://www.amazon.com/Potters-Complete-Studio-Handbook--Finish/dp/1592537464/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452727515&sr=8-1&keywords=potters+complete+studio+handbook

u/Vanderwoolf · 1 pointr/Ceramics

I've used Critter sprayers for over a decade. Hard to beat those things for reliability and ease of use.

u/RedneckPaycheck · 1 pointr/Ceramics

powdered plaster will not work. it will bond with whatever you pour into the mold and ruin the ceramic material.

the reason slipcasting works is because the cured plaster absorbs the water and deflocculant out of the ceramic material.

if you're really interested in learning about slipcasting and dont want to take another class on it from someone who knows a lot, I would recommend Andrew Martin's book -
https://www.amazon.com/Essential-Guide-Making-Casting-Ceramics/dp/1600590772

nobody here is going to go in depth enough to teach you how to do it

u/drawerdrawer · 2 pointsr/Ceramics

Not even close!

N100 or P100 RESPIRATOR is what you need, a paper mask or n95 will not protect you.
This is the studio standard: 3M Half Facepiece Reusable Respirator Assembly 6391/07003(AAD), Large, P100 Respiratory Protection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NDN29O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Fw3nDb3BJ2ST0