(Part 2) Top products from r/Fixxit

Where to begin.

First off, never again put a meter lead on a spark plug wire. I have no idea why that meter didn't stop working forever. You are hitting the meter with 30,000 volts when it's probably not designed to measure over 1000 volts. You check for spark using a spark plug, or one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-20610-Inline-Spark-Tester/dp/B0002STSC6 and a video how to use it is here: https://youtu.be/eQBtzk-dGYM

Second, Your starter clutch is fine. It's allowing the starter to turn the engine over. That's the first function. The second function comes into play when the engine starts, and you haven't gotten there yet. IT allows the engine to run without the engine driving the starter motor. The thing you see moving in that window is the flywheel, and it's connected to the crankshaft, so it's going to spin whenever the engine is turning over to start or when it's running. Cover that hole up. your problem isn't there.

Third, the little philips head screw on your carburetor is a drain to empty your carburetor float bowls for winter storage, or to set the float height. It's not going to help you start the engine, although the fact gas is coming out of it is a good sign that that carb, at least, is getting fuel. But, tighten it down and leave it.

Fourth, and this part scares me, is how do you know the left carb needs a vacuum diaphragm (as they're more commonly called)? Good on your for being able to repair your starter motor and get it back together so it turns the engine over, but it's very easy to screw up a carburetor without even knowing it if you don't know what you're doing.

You need to get a socket for your spark plug, they need to come out to see if they're wet, or fouled, or even have a proper gap.

I could go on forever, but go HERE and start reading. You could go straight to chapter 13, "Trouble Shooting a Bike that Will Not Start," but you'd be doing yourself a favor by starting at the beginning and reading everything.

Good luck, man. I know you're trying and I commend you for that, but I saw so many things in just that short video that made me cringe. I don't know where you live, but if you live anywhere near Syracuse, NY, I could probably help you get that running in short order. I've repaired bikes professionally (and in fact am a very busy industrial electrician/mechanic,) and was a service manager at a Kawasaki dealer for a while. I've been repairing motorcycles on and off for over 45 years, since I was 13, and fixing mowers and chains saw even before that. I know what I'm doing and if I come across something I don't know, I'll find out and won't bullshit you in the meantime. For example, the guy who asked about valve adjustment is not wrong, he's just jumped too far ahead. The fundamentals of a viable engine are fuel, compression, and spark. It seems like you have all 3, so it's probably something relatively minor preventing you from getting started.

The trickery in those systems is not in their electrical wiring, but in that they're increasingly computerized. ABS and EFI in particular. With increasing model-specific complexity also comes increasing variety, so you're going to need a model-specific service manual.

If you're unfamiliar with 12V electrical systems in general, I'd probably start by reading the generic automotive electrical books. Haynes would probably suffice to get you up to speed, so that terminology used in the service manual makes more sense.

The main differences you'll find will be in charging systems and accessory wiring (both covered in a model-specific service manual), but pretty much everything else follows a similar (+)->Distribution/Fuse->Device->Ground circuit.

Where it gets complex is the ECU. I know a few bikes use a variation of OBD-II (Triumph comes to mind), but the rest are completely proprietary, requiring their own set of scantools and protocols. Pretty much all EFI and ABS diagnostic procedures will be done with one of these scantools (or at least pricey cable and software) if you want live or freeze frame data where supported.

The same trend continues in the automotive world as well. ABS and electronically-controlled transmissions were a big deal when they first hit the market (pre OBD-II), and now they're adding drive-by-wire and hybrid technologies to the mix. The only thing standard between manufacturers and even model years is engine management data (emissions). Airbags, ABS, SRS, and body electrical control data still require dealer scantools to access. They don't make their PIDs public knowledge, so these scantools are often priced out of reach of all but the big shops.

Finally, not that you're gonna botch anything, but electrical is only worth doing if it's done right, so take pride in your work! No half-ass duct tape and twist splice crap. I've had tons of vehicles come to me in sorry shape after being "fixed" with electrical tape and prayers, many of which have required a new harness ($$$, time, patience, sanity). Doing it right takes skill and patience, but it's worth the reward when your car/house/bike doesn't burn down in the course of normal operation :)

Sorry, that was long.

TL;DR: It's not much different from cars; computers are weird

remove the whole seat so you can get at what's left of the bolt. Hit it with some WD40 , PB Blaster or whatever your favorite penetrating oil is. Now let it soak in there for a good long time. Then hit it again with the WD40 and let it soak again for a good long time...like an hour or so. After it has been lubed and penetrated get some vice grips and clamp those fucker on there as tight as you can perpendicular to the direction of the bolt. Make sure they are on there real good and then slowly try to back the bolt out. It looks like there is enough left of the bolt for this method to work. If it doesn't you can always try one of these , but I have had mixed success with them and always try the TONS OF PENETRATING OIL and vice grips method first. Also , make sure you let the penetrating oil soak in there real good.

You didn’t mention what bike you had, but if you have carburetors be sure to drain all the fuel lines and the carb float bowls also. Treat your first tank of gas with something like seafoam and hopefully you’ll be OK.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002JN2EU/ref=cm_sw_r_em_api_c_6NKYAbKYPQ8AH

A helicoil is a coil of "wire" that can get threaded into a larger diameter hole, which will then become the threads for a smaller diameter bolt or stud. Here's a kit so you can get an idea of what you'll need:
Amazon Helicoil

That would definitely be your best route, especially since you have all the tools you'll need. Keep in mind that link was just an example. You will need to find the correct size and thread count for your application.

Obviously the safest answer is to replace your tire. With that said, some have managed to go many thousands of miles using plugs on rear tires (specifically the temporary mushroom type plugs). Below is a link of a highly regarded temporary tire plug kit. THE NAIL MUST BE IN THE CENTER OF THE TIRE NOT ON THE SIDEWALL for this to work.

https://www.amazon.com/Stop-Go-1000-Pocket-Plugger/dp/B0006NE3KE/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1521179487&sr=1-4&keywords=stop+%26+go+tire+plugger

-Ideally if you can call around and find a mechanic to take off the tire and plug the inside of the puncture that would be a theoretically permanent and much more affordable fix than buying a new tire.

Take out one of the other fittings.

Use a thread gauge and something like http://www.amazon.co.uk/Precision-Reference-Drawing-Toolroom-Workshop/dp/B0000CLZUO - There will be something on the web I suspect, to find out what thread it is.

Congrats on someone actually doing preventative maintenance, and noticing something not right!

If that blade fuse is blown, I'd suggest replacing it with a newer fuse holder with some ring connectors crimped on. Way easier and cheaper than finding a new blade fuse.

Fuse Holder

Ring Connectors

if you do accidentally poke a hole, you can repair the pokie-pokie by brazing. I did it recently after a rock hit my radiator - incredibly surprised how easy it was. All you need is some Bernzomatic AL3 Aluminum Brazing/Welding Rods and a small propane torch. youtube for instructions

black rtv like [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-82180-Maximum-Resistance-Silicone/dp/B0002UEN1U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453094641&sr=8-1&keywords=rtv+silicone)?

You don't need jeweller's rouge at all. Very fine wet & dry paper, and/or polishing blocks. There used to be a product in the UK called Loyblox: grit impregnated rubber blocks, in different grades.

They're long gone (I still have mine, though!) and the modsern equivalent seems to be this:-

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Garryson-Garryflex-Abrasive-Block-240grit/dp/B0001P08UG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Then finish off with metal polish like Solvol Autosol or any decent proprietary polish.

Don't bother trying to re-lacquer, either. If you ride the bike, the lacquer is going to come off anyway, sooner or later. Just keep the naked alloy polished.

You can use paint stripper to remove old lacquer, by the way.

If the threads are just a little wonky and not completely destroyed, you could try chasing them with an M6 tap.

But, that kit should work if chasing doesn't. Make sure the hole is deep enough for the tap to fully cut threads deep enough for the insert, though. The 'bullet' type taps usually have a ~1/4" (~6mm) taper at the tip, so the threads will not be cut the full depth of the hole. Also be careful that the tap does not bottom out in the hole. You will also need a t-handle (not included in the kit) to hold the tap along with some cutting oil (3-in-1 works well). Both can likely be had at your local hardware store, including the Helicoil kit. Go slow, follow the directions, and you will be fine.

Use blue loctite on the insert when installing, and switch to a stainless bolt (no loctite on bolt) to prevent dissimilar metal corrosion. Helicoils are not as strong, and not as deep as the original threads, so don't torque on it too much.

If the Helicoils fail, you can always step up to solid bushing inserts like BigSert from TimeSert, but this is a pretty low-torque application so the coil should be fine.

Home mechanics have used Indian Head gasket shellac on air-cooled cylinder heads which get up to around 450 degrees, but your cylinder base gasket will only see about 250 degrees at most.

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-20539-Indian-Shellac-Compound/product-reviews/B0008KLOG6

Most people don't like the round applicator that looks like it belongs in a bottle of liquid shoe polish.

Hmmm. Who polishes shoes anymore?

Here's the one I use:

"Fully Charge and Maintain a Battery at Proper Storage Voltage without the Damaging Effects Caused by Trickle Chargers"

https://www.amazon.ca/Battery-Tender-021-0128-Maintain-Damaging/dp/B00068XCQU

It's not cheap, but this permatex stuff worked on a buddy's Mazda gas tank.

I'm not too sure about that auger. I used something akin to this. This was back in 2006, though, so I don't recall the actual bit size at this point.

Yeah that wasn't too clear, huh. Here's the bend where it's more mild where it goes behind the right headlight mount and working apparently, and here's where it's sharp and not working. It could also be the angle of the fitting on the handlebar - where it's not working the fitting is angled in, and where it is working the fitting is angled out.

This is the only pic I have, sorry for potato quality. I'd take one now but it's all wrapped in plastic since I'm preparing to make a fiberglass seat pan for it! Since that picture I've cut the back off and welded a tail hoop on. It is really obscure, I had no idea until I started buying parts for it. Apparently it's a GS750E and GS750L combined, though there seem to be parts unique to the T like the brake master cylinder. Here's the resources I've been using:

• Schematics
  
  
• Service manual that mostly applies to engine and carb stuff, probably other bits. You can find the Clymer manual on Amazon.
  
  A note, in case you haven't run into it yet: You'll see in the schematics there's different versions for Z and D - that's the year code, Z is for 1982 and D is for 83.

I don't carry a tool kit but that's mainly because I commute. I don't think you'll have to worry about adjustments as much as having something fail.

In either case, you'd probably be better with something new. I think that OEM parts/equipment are many times inferior because theres a focus on keeping costs down, etc. Nevertheless, if I were to get some sort of toolkit it'd be something like this. I was actually planning on buying that kit a while ago but didn't because I don't need it.

You can't drill an extractor or tap. I have gotten them out of the way by making many tiny holes all around one with very small drill bits so that I could remove it and go back to work on one.

This is a tap extractor. You will find several bad reviews because they were unfortunately used and assessed by people who didn't know how to use extractors in the first place.

Pro tips:

1.) extractors are rarely the solution and frequently compound the problem. They are not for stuck bolts ever. As you have learned, they are far too brittle to put any real force on.

2.) penetrating oil sometimes takes up to a day to get where its going. spray, tap with mallet, spray, leave, spray, wait, etc.
These are tiny channel locks. The pair I have is actually smaller and a couple of versions older. You can grab tiny screws with these and break them loose without issue.

These work really well too. Take an impact driver and get a receiver that takes general screw driver bits. These have that same hex shape. Put one on slightly smaller than the screw head on there and pop it. It'll bite in the screw head and pop it loose almost every time.