(Part 3) Top products from r/GoRVing

I'm sorry if this is long, but

Tarps! If you're going to be in a hot area, you'll quickly find which areas of your RV will heat up the most. If you put tarps in strategic places around the outside of your RV, you can create shade and prevent it from heating up, which means not having to run the AC all the time.

If you can afford it, get a dehumidifier machine and put it in a dedicated spot! I live in a stationary 5th wheel and it gets super humid in here sometimes. If not, they sell these damp rid buckets that you can use for a while before you need to replace 'em--they work pretty well for the most part, but I think a dehumidifier would work best.

You may want to replace the locks on all your storage bay thingies (the ones that open from the outside), those use a stock key most people who own rvs have. To save on propane, you can get a little toaster oven with two burners! or just some standalone hotplates!

Make sure your toilet paper is septic safe (doesn't have to be RV specific! I use Charmin or the walmart version) and that you keep your black water tank

• Partially full of water all the time (like 1/4 the way full) so stuff breaks down properly and you don't get TP clogs
  
• The draining valve never gets left open even if you're permanently hosed into a sewer connection! This causes baaad clogs that are gross and hard to get rid of.
  
• You should use the sewage tank treatment stuff so it doesn't get stinky and everything breaks down properly so you can dump the tank with ease! Definitely get these or something similar in large amounts and probably when you buy your toilet paper. They sell this stuff at Walmart!
  
  Optionaly:
  
• You can replace your bathroom vent so sewage gas doesn't get blown back into your RV in windy conditions. That is not fun!
  
  These kind of tension rods can be used for anything from storing pot and pan lids, to making a little makeshift towel rod in the bathroom or shower.
  
  I recommend finding a good but decently large dish rack to dry dishes on that fits near your sink. I had a hard time finding one that fit so I got two small ones instead! They both sit in both/either sides of my kitchen sink so when I'm done with dishes, they actually don't take up counter space.
  
  Good luck! It's interesting to live in a 5th wheel for sure!

First of, excellent choice of RV and truck.

I love my Andersen Magnetic Jack Blocks. You have the 6 point auto-leveling system from Lippert (Ground Control 3.0 I reckon) so you just attach these jack blocks to the round feet magnetically so you never have to 'center' the blocks when leveling.

LevelMate Pro is another item I have that I love. You can check if your level, side to side before even detaching. It's a must have as I shave a good 5-10 mins each time I setup and I'm always 100% perfectly level.

Purchase a Kingpin Lock for when your RV isn't hooked up to the truck so no one can steal it.

Purchase a regular lock to replace the lock pin on your 5th wheel hitch to prevent people from unhooking your RV when you're stopped. Yes, it's happened.

Consider getting the Furrion observation camera. Your RV is already pre-wired for it so it's crazy easy to install.

Which surge protector did you get? Progressive Industries makes really good units and they're quite popular.

Enjoy!

I highly suggest a hand packer. You'll need a jack capable of lifting your trailer (I highly suggest a bottle jack), and stands to support it while your wheels are off. You'll need a 1-1/2 socket (I won't use a wrench on the castle nut), cotter pins if that's what your axle uses. You won't know until you take it apart so just buy a kit since they're cheap and you can use them if/when you need to work on your awning anyway. I use water pump pliers to remove the dust cap without damaging it. You'll need a seal puller. Breaker bar, torque wrench, and sockets to fit your lug nuts. Brake clean, I use varsol to clean everything but the drum. Varsol and cast iron don't mix. I'll clean everything after the varsol with brake clean because it evaporates. You'll need high temperature high pressure grease and new seals (if you bring your make and rating of axle to a dealer they can hook you up).

Jack up the trailer, take off the wheels, pop off the dust cap, take off the cotter pin or other retainer, remove the nut, washer, outer bearing, remove the drum, remove the seal, remove the inner bearing. Clean the bearings with varsol, clean everything with brake clean, blow everything with compressed air to evaporate the brake clean, pack new grease into the bearings, coat the axle spindle with grease, coat the bearing races with grease, reassemble.

The correct torque on the axle nut is 50ft/lbs while spinning the wheel to set the bearings, then loosen and retighten to finger tight.

If you want a single battery, get a 100ah lithium iron phosphate... its gonna cost you though...

AGM batteries are only useful for 50% of their advertised AH rating vs like 80%+ for Lifepo, also lifepo are lighter weight, and have more recharge cycles.

I run 2 of these right now to get 100 useful AH, and I am hopeful that in ~3 years when its time to get new batteries the cost of LifePo will have come down b/c they really are vastly superior in every way.

Most trailers only have stabilizing jacks. They just prevent movement while you are walking around the trailer. We bought these levelers. They are super easy to use.

Youtube video

No, I don't think it would hurt at all, but why would you want to fill up your grey tank that much faster? Personally, I don't have that much issues with dumping and flushing my black water tank, but I can understand why some would rather not use it for solids. If that's the way you choose to use it, you can still use the back water tank for urine. You'll still want to put the chemicals down there to help dissolve the TP for the women who use it, and prior to dumping, just fill it with fresh water to help push everything out. I also use the flush king to back flush to make sure I got most of it - http://www.amazon.com/Valterra-F02-4350-Black-Flush-Reverse/dp/B008O9DV78/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397824185&sr=8-1&keywords=flush+king

Get a hitch tightener. It will alleviate much of the "normal" noises a hitch can make. But yes, like everyone else says, make sure your hitch etc is correct.

https://www.amazon.com/StowAway-Cargo-Carriers-20-6-Tightener/dp/B0001CMUV4

I've done a few things. My most recent mod was adding USB plugs all over the place wired directly to the 12v system. I used these: http://amzn.com/B00MNGCDVS
That helps when we're dry camping and keeps our 120v outlets open for other things when we're not.

The best mod I've done is adding a battery voltage and current display: http://amzn.com/B013PKYILS

That shows how many amps you're using and gives a very accurate display of your voltage. SUPER handy while dry camping.

Dicor self leveling for roof. Proflex for everything else. Expensive, but both specifically designed for RV applications.

Many people say never use anything with silicone. It work well at first but fails after a while and nothing (even more silicone) will stick to it. Have to scape all the old off first. I don’t have first hand experience as I’ve avoided it due to those reports.

Dicor 501LSW-1 Self-Leveling Lap Sealant, 4 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G6KGPFM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pQeUCbFX9R1FT

Geocel 18-9803 GC28100 Pro Flex Rv Flexible Clear https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FC98X2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XLeUCb6GEJD6J

Mr. Heater F232000 MH9BX Buddy 4,000-9,000-BTU Indoor-Safe Portable Radiant Heater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nvL-zbF85BZ12

For when/ if electricity fails you. Whether it's a problem with your internal wiring, or an external lack of power. I keep this inside my rig all winter incase of emergency. One of those green propane bottles last 4-5 hours, so keep a couple bottles inside. It's safe to run in the trailer.

I bought my rig last November and went straight to Denver for all of December and January. I stayed totally dry for most of that until I got a heated hose and figured out a couple more tricks.

Keep a clean 5 gallon bucket inside, sometimes motivation or the time isn't there to make it to the gym for a shower. You can boil a kettle of water and use it to wash up.

You can also buy a hand pump for those primo water jugs which are quick, easy, and cheap to fill. Those make it easy to keep water in the place.

You can either wash dishes in a bucket and dump it outside, or you'll need to figure out grey water from the sink. It shouldn't be a problem to run a line out and dump it on the ground, you'd just want to watch the line to make sure you don't get an ice block in there.

If the outhouse gets old, you can look into a composting toilet if you have somewhere to keep it. Or a toilet with a "cassette" which you can dump in the outhouse when it's not -10 out.

Sometimes it's nice to have an option for anything you might need inside the trailer to get though cold days and nights.

Two options are:

1. Valterra RV Stabilizer
   
2. Camco Aluminum Stabilizer
   
   Tuck either one up under the frame of the camper. You might try different spots to see where they work best. Usually the corners are what get stablized in travel trailers.

Most likely this. If the pump is still good, install a stand alone check valve, or repair the pump. edit, found an easy check valve to install. https://www.amazon.com/SHURFLO-340-001-In-Line-Check-Valve/dp/B000BGJWF2/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1537399640&sr=8-7&keywords=rv+water+check+valve

Yep! It worked flawlessly over the weekend: LevelMatePro

Used in tandem with these leveling blocks (I think the most common supplier is Anderson) meant I could watch the trailer become level as the wheels rolled over the blocks.

I also got to try my TPMS setup to all 8 wheels, tow vehicle and trailer. Nice peace of mind knowing temp and pressure (my truck has it but I wanted to see data all from the same system).

I bought this one that goes around the spare tire. Just took my 1st trip, and it's perfect. only holds 2 though
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000SKZDCC/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If they're handy, give them a couple of [these.] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MNGCDVS/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1) Very easy to install, just need access to 12v line. I have a couple in mine and it's very convenient.

Something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00260GLR8/ref=pd_aw_fbt_60_img_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3PPR4ZXE1VNG845TGFHR

Or the heavier platform that you could stand on...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00064C4V8/ref=pd_aw_fbt_60_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=X3QYQ9K2K1FJEHSGD05E

Or even a paint tray that sits on a ladder rung.

Using a generator for a space heater is inefficient. It's also expensive.

If all you need is heat, go for a catalytic propane space heater. Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Heater-F232000-Indoor-Safe-Portable/dp/B002G51BZU

That one is expensive at $70, you can get decent models as cheap as $20 that screw onto the top of a Coleman propane cylinder.

Would a sway bar work to compensate? I ordered this one from Amazon as recommended on etrailer.com.

I have two of these i installed to prevent bouncing and such. One on the car bike rack and one on the hitch on the rv the car is attatched to. Not sure about the one on the rv doing much but i am sure the one the car for the bike rack reduced the amount of moving around the bike rack does. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001CMUV4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If it were me, and I'd been having these issues, I'd replace both batteries just in case. They aren't expensive enough for it to be worth the risk in my opinion. Can't speak to your size constraints, but AGMs are nice because you don't need to top them off or worry as much about fumes. I got these ones for under $200 apiece and they've worked well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00S1RT58C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Most trailers have rear stabilizers, did you use them? Larger trailers have them in the front as well. You can also buy separate stabilizers. They make small ones to place under the step. I bought a larger one to add to the stability under the side bed in mine.
Here

Valterra F02-4100 45 Degree Hydroflush With Removable Anti-siphon Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UHVAA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_74T6xb2TG3EVX

Can you track down an owners manual? Somebody correct me if I'm wrong, but I think this is the stuff typically used: https://smile.amazon.com/Dicor-501LSW-1-Self-Leveling-Sealant-Pack/dp/B00G6KGPFM

Sounds a lot like your start capacitor has gone bad.

Here is how to check it.

http://www.wikihow.com/Check-a-Start-Capacitor

If its bad, replace it with the Supco SPP6 Hard Start Capacitor. Installed in my camper and it works fantastic.

https://www.amazon.com/SPP6-Capacitor-Increase-Starting-Torque/dp/B0002YTLFE

Mine did the same thing. I just put a valtera twist on waste valve on the end to solve this problem.

Valterra Black T58 Twist-On Waste Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BGHYJS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wfbEDb0YH8FXT

I haven't used that yet, but have had the same thought for when we run out of water while dry camping. Emergency type application just to get us through a day or so. We only have the city connection in our 5th wheel, which requires pressure. We plan to use a 5 gallon container to carry water from the city water) and a drill pump. Should work... Why not?

Unless something that is not biodegradable was added to the tank (toy as you stated) everything will eventually breakdown. The question is do you have solid buildup in the tank? One way that can happen is the lack of water use, the black tank needs plenty of water all the time. Is it possible while dry camping your family conserved water while flushing?

If you are at a park, I would recommend you fill the tank fairly full with water. Let that sit 24 hours to hydrate any solids, then dump. It helps if you have a clear sewer attachment so you can see what runs out, and back flush with the one I linked to above.

If you still have a problem, add a cup of kitchen detergent (such as Dawn). Fill your tank just slightly. Then drive around in your RV, too much water you won’t get the agitation on the bottom of the tank. You want just enough water so when you slow down or accelerate you slosh. If the buildup is higher on the walls, you can increase the water volume and repeat. This won’t clean so much the lower section of the tank but will start to work the higher tank sides.

This should only be done after keeping the tank full to hydrate for 24 hours or the solids will be still firmly stuck to the walls. Some will say ice cubes but from my own experience and others testing it, the ice cubes do no better then pure water.

When driving I don’t have to go far. It’s more quick starts and stop, possibly some turning. You don’t need to do it at high speed, the key is agitation so abrupt changes will keep the water moving.

I like the Geo Method for maintenance. The basic idea is a water softener to keep things from sticking and soap for grime and smell. Start by adding two cap fulls of Calgon and 1/2 calgon cap of Dawn with water. Borax can be substituted for Calgon, it can be less effective and Borax should be dissolved in hot water before adding to the tank.

The way we do it is, dump leaving a park. Put the chemical in the tank with a bit of water before our next stop. When we arrive we fill the blank tank 1/3 or so and repeat.

I've been considering some tank heater pads but it'll be a bit of a pain in the ass to wire it with a switch, given the layout of the trailer.