(Part 2) Top products from r/Honda

WD-40 is not really made for anything but loosening stuck things, once it evaporates it no longer lubricates very well.

Try a lock deicer if its is for sure frozen or use a dry graphite spray in the lock after the WD-40 to keep it nice and free.

WD-40 loosens really well but isn't a lasting effect. Spray graphite doesn't loosen well but lasts. They are a perfect compliment to each other.

Hey, no problems. Those are what I purchased, yes. Along with this wiring adapter (which is easier than easy to install and should be included with the purchase on Crutchfield).

Speakers from Amazon

Wiring adapter from Amazon

It all comes out to about the same price (about $5 cheaper on Amazon), but Amazon's got Prime shipping, so that's why I'd recommend going there.

Also it's worth noting that I had to send them back in because one of the speakers started to crackle, so watch out for that within the first couple weeks. I'll be buying them again though soon, since they sounded pretty good for the price.

Hope this helps.

First off, if there are any mods, I would not buy it. HOWEVER, if the mods are basic, cold air intake, headers, exhaust, then thats pretty easy stuff. Step by step though I would do this.

1. Make sure the car is cold, meaning that it hasn't been warmed up before you arrived.
   
   
2. Check the oil.
   
   
3. Check the trans fluid.
   
   
4. If is it warm, then look under the car for any fresh oil or anything else that might have leaked out.
   
   
5. Check under the hood (and I DO mean under the hood. Open it up and make sure the insulation is free of oil or any other liquids that have been splattered on the underside of the hood) and anywhere else. Oil leaves a pretty dark stain where ever it hits.
   
   
6. Do a compression test (http://www.amazon.com/Actron-CP7828-Professional-Compression-Storage/dp/B00020BM28) something like this. This will tell you a lot about the engine.
   
   
7. If they won't allow you to do this test, then walk away.
   
   
8. If the compression is good, then take it for a test drive. low speed, around town, test the brakes (not too hard) and basically go through every gear.
   
   
9. MOST IMPORTANT dont listen to what they have to say about the way it drives, take your own notes. This way you can lower the price based on what you just drove.
   
   
10. Feel the tires, and by this I mean run you hand lightly over the treads. If it feels wavy, then the tire is out of balance. If you feel bald spots here and there it means the shocks are not working as they should. If it feels worn on either the inside or outside of the tire then the alignment is off. All of these things will effect how the car drove when you tested it. Again, these are thing that the seller might not have known about and it only works in your favor.
    
    
11. And this is a tough one. Look for where the paint isn't all the same around the car. Cheap paint jobs usually cover up accidents. I would suggest looking up a youtube video on how to spot the differences, but its better then me trying to describe it.
    
    
12. Look for how the panels line up. For example, if you are in front of the car, and the gap between the hood and the headlight on the left compared to the one on the right is off, then that says either the hood has been off for some reason, or this car rear ended someone on a certain side. Again, youtube it to see.
    
    
13. Anything that you aren't sure of, electrical, engine noise, does the engine shake at idle, exhaust leaks, do some research online. heres a great link for future mods/projects http://honda-tech.com/
    
    
14. If the seller seems eager to sell you the car, watch out!
    
    Hopefully you do read these steps, and again they are 14 simple steps that NO mechanic will argue with. If a seller isn't willing to let you do any of these tests, then you do no want to buy that car.

special stuff. here is the kit
http://www.amazon.com/99-5000-Aerosol-Recharger-Filter-Service/dp/B00029WYEY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1333468088&sr=8-1
that one looks like it has the spray oil, which is better than my pour on oil (much faster and harder to over do). just follow the instructions shouldnt be a problem.
the MAF is easy to locate, do a little reading on cleaning it first, and proceed with caution if you do. they're usually pretty expensive to replace.

I second the 40PSI tires, new plugs, wires, rotor, air filter, and maybe a few tanks of injector cleaner. Most is snake oil but this brand has some science and mechanic support http://www.amazon.com/Chevron-65740-Techron-Concentrate-Cleaner/dp/B00092893E

Edit: Oh - and play with lighter weight oils like 0w-30. Just watch to be sure it's not burning it too fast.

It's a parasitic power loss. I cut the belt on my '01 Accord about 4 years ago.

You should go ahead and replace the input shaft bearing on the transmission. If that's the original 277k transmission, then you're going to have to rebuild it at some point. It sounds more difficult than it is. Here's a list of all the unique parts/tools. You'll know your ISB (input shaft bearing) has failed when you hear a gross/grinding noise that disappears when you're stopped, engine is running, but have the clutch pedal pressed to the floor.


http://www.harborfreight.com/3-jaw-pilot-bearing-puller-4876.html
http://www.ebay.com/itm/151645763545
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NY8O6K
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HBGI8K
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000N37CUK

Honda OEM replacement parts for the bearing and seal.
91216-PL3-005
91002-PS0-013

Or something like this might be ideal for you. Not for me though. I'm cheap :)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/301677670901

really? I don't need to have it repainted or anything? You're 100% sure clay bar will work? I need to find out what that is. And are you talking about something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-07240-California-Gold-System/dp/B0002U2V1Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478497153&sr=8-1&keywords=clay+bar+car

You just need to clean the filter once a year unless you live in extremely dusty conditions like the desert. Cleaning the filter is just using a solvent, drying it, and then applying filter oil. Example of what you need.

Or you could get a dry air filter that doesn't require any oil but you still need to clean it every year with solvent.

Not sure what kind of filter is on there but you'll need a kit provided by the filter's manufacturer.

What do you mean by scoop? I have a short ram air intake yes, this one to be exact.

Thank you a lot for the tip. How do I remove the previous adhesive?

And is this the stuff you're talking about?

https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8276-KwikWeld-Reinforced/dp/B0006O1ICY

My suggestion is this, since you have no idea how well the car was taken care of or if it was changed at all, change it one time and drive it for a week. Then change it again and see if it helps. From there you can try 3rd party alernative if you want but these transmissions prefer OEM fluid. Not sure on this year but you typically remove the fill bolt first, then the drain bolt. Be sure to get new crush washers and clean off the debris from the drain plug. I use this pump to make it a breeze to get the fluid in with no mess. When the fluid starts to drip out you are done.

https://www.amazon.com/Plews-55001-Lubrimatic-Standard-Bottles/dp/B000BQW5LK/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1505605976&sr=8-3&keywords=Fluid+pump

You need something like this. They're a bit of a puzzle because they come with a lot of extra parts so they can work with different cars and radios. You might not need that metal frame that's currently around the radio.

Dynamatt doesn't weigh that much at all. I've got it on all 4 doors and the tailgate which took like 4 rolls. 9 rolls of it weighs 20 pounds. So, even using 18 rolls of isn't going to make a noticeable difference to MPGs.

Amazon.

Bar

CRV specific mounts

When I was daily driving my Civic and going to community college I had a 2 way alarm, a steering wheel club, and a clutch lock. Car security is like dressing for cold weather, it's all about layers.

But like it was said before, the 01-05 Civic isn't heavily targeted by thieves.

You might be able to use "fish tape" to help route the new speaker wire with out having to cut into the rubber 'tube or remove the plugs'. (http://www.amazon.com/Gardner-Bender-EFT-21PN-25-Foot-Cable/dp/B000BP7WBO/ref=sr_sp-atf_title_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1370922238&sr=8-2&keywords=fish+tape)

Here's what you need...just gotta know the terminology sometimes...I just replaced the ones on my mom's RX300.

http://www.amazon.com/StrongArm-4869L-Accord-Tailgate-1994-97/dp/B000ALBSXM/ref=sr_1_9?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1377114617&sr=1-9&keywords=stabilus+accord

Yea I'll get you links to everything. It was under that price for everything I bought. Just give me a few minutes to look it all up.
[Bluetooth receiver] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008AGQMQC/ref=mh_s9_acsd_top_bwq8_c_x_2_w?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-5&pf_rd_r=6QBRES82RMG68N7ARNJA&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=cb8ba3ed-c555-5ae7-994c-0c95004dcc84&pf_rd_i=226184)


[cd player] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0091V0A9U/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1483408419&sr=1-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Car+cd+player&dpPl=1&dpID=41lZUWt96qL&ref=plSrch)


[install kit] (https://www.amazon.com/Stereo-Install-Accord-wiring-installation/dp/B000KL113O)

If you end up installing this stuff, I recommend buying one of these It sorta covers up the stock radio. Mpow CD Slot Car Mount, Universal Cell Phone Holder with Three Side Grips for iPhone 7/6s/6 plus, Android Smartphones, etc https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PC29ETE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-tWAybPGDNZKQ