(Part 2) Top products from r/LandCruisers

Sounds like my fan bearing did when it was failing on my 2000 lx, almost had an exhaust-y sound from the drivers seat. The bearing is built into the fan bracket. Not too expensive of a part($100ish on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0031GCUEY), but a pain to remove. For the fan bracket to clear when pulling it out, you have to rotate the a/c compressor out of the way just a bit which requires loosening a bolt you can’t see under the manifold. Additionally, the nuts holding the fan onto the pulley/bracket are pretty soft. I rounded one off and replaced them with stainless when I put it back together. Here’s a pretty good video on the timing belt maintenance that shows the fan bracket removal: https://youtube.com/watch?v=4dO8KW1-NQs&t=11m55s

Edit: bolts to nuts

Here is the list of all the stuff i got:

1. 1/0 welding wire - 50 ft (used ~44ft) from https://weldingsupply.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?Next::1:UNDEF:OR:terms::PA2
   
2. Swedge on tool for crimping the lugs on the wire from https://weldingsupply.com/cgi-bin/einstein.pl?PNUM::1:UNDEF6657706:OR:04040
   
3. 1 OT coppers lugs - 10 pc from http://www.connectorsupply.com/catalog/copper-lug-ot-38-stud-tin-plated-p-197.html
   
4. Clamps - 6pc from http://www.connectorsupply.com/catalog/rubber-coated-clamp-34-inch-p-643.html
   
5. Wire loom - 20 ft from http://www.connectorsupply.com/catalog/wire-loom-black-nylon-12-inch-p-240.html
   
6. Heatshrink - 1 black from http://www.connectorsupply.com/catalog/3m-shrink-tube-black-34-inch-p-216.html
   
7. Heatshrink - 2 red from http://www.connectorsupply.com/catalog/3m-shrink-tube-red-34-inch-p-223.html
   
8. Cord grips - 3/4" trade size mcmaster.com part number 69915K56
   
9. Longer j-hooks for the house (2nd battery), the ones that came with slee were a bit short for my batter - mcmaster.com part number 98760A111
   
10. Mil spec battery terminal - 2 pc Positive - mcmaster.com part number 7738K1
    
11. Mil spec battery terminal - 1 pc Negative - mcmaster.com part number 7738K2
    
12. Blue seas ML ACR 7622
    
13. Blue seas circuit breaker - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007P5UNNW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    I think thats pretty much it, i will edit anything else if remember it.
    
    This all could be done in one day and you dont need a garage to do it.
    Good luck!
    

I've had success UV dye:

https://smile.amazon.com/Interdynamics-Certified-Fuel-Systems-ounce/dp/B002M4G24U/

Here's some cheap blacklights:

https://smile.amazon.com/Interdynamics-Certified-Detection-Glasses-438/dp/B003JOB594/

https://smile.amazon.com/POCKETMAN-UV-Ultraviolet-Blacklights-Flashlight-Detecting/dp/B01FS64GNC/

That being said, ih8mud is a much better place for these questions. It's much more active.

I love seeing the GXs out there.

Pick up a set of these to make leveling SO much easier. Most smartphones have a level on them too...

https://www.amazon.com/Tri-Lynx-00015-Lynx-Levelers-Pack/dp/B0028PJ10K/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1537759070&sr=1-4&keywords=rv+leveling+blocks&dpID=51jMjecwppL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I think you're definitely on the right track here!

To really verify your theory, you would need to check the pressure on the output end of the fuel filter when it's cold. Long term, you will need to drain and refill the tank.

Have you tried starting up in those temps when you have a full tank of gas? Depending on how much water there is, dilution might be enough to get you going.

When was the last time you replaced your fuel filter? There might be debris caught in the filter that is making the problem worse. You might also consider lightly smacking the filter with a hammer just in case the Arthur Fonzarelli approach will be effective.

Something else to consider is adding a fuel de-icer product. I don't have any personal experience with Heet, but it sounds like it's a common additive for 60 series rigs in the winter.

I got a ball mount from amazon, and two sided taped it to my ashtray (94 FZJ80). Very solid and the ball is fairly universal.

Ball - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002T0EK64/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (cheaper available, bought in 2011)

Cell holder - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00X1E5GS8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (again YMMV purchased in 2015)

they both still work

My rack came off fine but my rig was garaged kept before me and completely rust free. Some people run into problems. There weren't any nuts below.

Heres exactly what I used based off this thread:https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/factory-rack-removal-options.609224/


Bolts (8x):https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=6677

Washers (8x):https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=2938

Thread Sealant:https://www.amazon.com/Loctite-37396-Thread-Sealant-50-Mililiter/dp/B0002KKTGS

It just rained and so far so good. I'm gonna paint over the oval area where the rack sat with something here soon.

I sell booze, life (1 day) has been amazing. I sell booze and transferred within my company. Cost of living is high, but if you live simply, you can make it work.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CUFR7EK

Thank you. That is a Dashmat from amazon. The paint is a Lexus color 1C6 Graphite Grey Metallic. It's just the paint, no waxing. It still has a few rough spots.

What size were the mounts you bought? I found them on amazon but there is a choice between 1- 2 inch and 2-3 inch sizing here.

Sorry it was Denso, this is from my Amazon history

Denso 221-3152 Radiator https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004J378CM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_XapiDbEHBVG1Z

Diff drop lowers the front diff which makes the CV axle angle better. If you don’t do the drop you will go through CV axles.

I use one of these in each Cruiser to hold my phone. Just bolt it to your seat using the bolt that’s already there. RAM POD I Universal No-Drill(TM) Vehicle Laptop Mount with 18"" Rigid Aluminum Rod & Single Socket Arm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006ZOW1U2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_F4JXBbW8QAD90

Spare tire mod raises the winch that lifts the spare to allow for more clearance in the rear.

AHC usually takes up space under the hood where the 2nd battery would go. SLEE can help you find something that works, some 100 owners just run 1 really big battery.

Remote starter was on it when we bought it, it’s a drone system that you can activate with your smartphone. Only downside of it is it has a cell phone receiver running all the time which will drain the battery in about a week. If I were buying another system I would not do the cel option.

I just drilled holes onto the OEM roof rack and install these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CQPANY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yea, I'm probably going to replace them just because.

Quick question, will this Denso 02 Sensor work as replacements for both of the sensors on my truck?

https://www.amazon.com/Apex-RB-7206-Low-Profile-Camping-Basket/dp/B002M4GMI6

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Again, not that good but it suffices for my small things.

Just did the whole engine bay a few months ago. Use simple green extreme aircraft cleaner. It is the fucking tits and doesn't hurt aluminum like other cleaners. Spray it all over the engine bay, let it sit for about 5-10 minutes (the longer the better). I took it to a non-busy self-serve car wash, took the battery out, covered the distributor cap with a plastic bag and had at it with the pressure rinse. Be careful of spraying directly into electrical connectors, as they are 20-25+ years old, however, they are engineered to be around water.