(Part 2) Top products from r/Mustang

Pretty much yes. I used this paint
I first just used my jack and did my right tire but if you can put your car on stands, it will save you lots of time! I first did my front right side. Lift the car, took the tire out, cleaned the caliper extra well with a rag and alcohol (to really get rid of any dirt and oils). Then started masking all round with newspaper and masking tape (including the ground.. I used paper and garbage bags). I Used an exacto blade to cut around the areas I didnt want to get paint on (really not as hard as it sounds just be careful). Then I primed it with regular primer spray paint. Waited for it to dry, and went at it with the yellow paint. Here is a link of a few pics i took between layers, imgur.com/a/h8kPg You wanna Do 2 or 3 layers which i highly recommend putting the car on stands. That way you can mask and paint and switch sides as you go instead of just using the jack for one caliper and having to wait 15-30min between layers. Hope that helps. Feel free to PM me if you still have some trouble

Edit: Sorry, the second link isnt showing up but just copy and paste and it should work

I pretty sure they are aluminum maybe billet but that is a stretch. I would use Eagle One Never Dull. That shit works on everything like a charm!

Best price EVER:
http://www.amazon.com/Astra-Hammond-10612-Louvers-Mustang/dp/B000CFS8CA

I have these on my 2006 v6 Legend Lime. They stay on very, very well and look amazing.

it looks like the filter is the washable type, i've always used this kit on my k&n filters
http://www.amazon.com/99-5000-Aerosol-Recharger-Filter-Service/dp/B00029WYEY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407174122&sr=8-1&keywords=k%26n+recharge

pretty simple, but allow a good amount of time for the filter to dry after washing it.
basically, you spray the filter with some soap, let it soak in, then wash off in a sink, let dry, then spray some oil on it. you'll be amazed at the crap that comes out of the filter.

When I had a 2005, I bought some CAN bus aux input adapter and drilled a hole in the console so I could feed an audio cable through. It plugged into the back of the head unit. Something like this (sorry I can't seem to find any still sold):

http://www.amazon.com/PIE-FRD04-AUX-Adjustable-Auxiliary-Vehicles/dp/B000CK9S7O/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Worked pretty much like the OEM one in 2007 did, just not as clean of an install.

http://www.amazon.com/HELLA-002395991-Type-Single-Headlamp/dp/B0002M9QJM/ref=sr_1_1/185-4734006-4416318?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1411964168&sr=1-1&keywords=hella+e+code+h4

These look stock but are a bit brighter than stock. If you want, you can swap the bulbs out for these and have a whiter light.

http://www.amazon.com/HELLA-H83140272-Performance-Xenon-Halogen/dp/B000H0RD7Q/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1411964292&sr=8-5&keywords=hella+h4+bulbs

The upper scoops drag air out of the car using venturi effect. That and they look cool. They were designed by Charlie McHose, and he tested the functionality of the "air extractor scoops" by sitting in the back seat with a lit cigarette while another guy drove it down the road, and someone else watched it go past and confirmed cigarette smoke was being vented out the back of the scoops. More fun than CAD testing eh :)
The lower scoops were functional for cooling the brakes on early 67's I believe.. after that I think they were decorative only unless the owner went ahead and made them functional.
As far as I know it was only the "Mustang 1 Concept" that was mid engined. This bodystyle was never intended to be a mid-engined car.

Edit - I am a horrible nerd and I need to get a life.
Edit 2 - Here's my source. Brilliant book. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/1934709972/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=126NM7QD8J54V&coliid=I6MKAC5UD66GK

I recently was in the market for one of these as well to combat a slow leak. There are two types - ones that only hook up to the cigarette lighter socket in your car, or ones that run on both AC and DC power (home or car). I ended up going with this AC/DC Tire Inflator but they also have a less expensive DC only Tire Inflator as well. Highly recommended!

It will likely have the Mach 460 or Mach 1000 sound stuff in it -- I put a Pioneer double-din head unit in a similar car (2004) and used this:
http://www.amazon.com/Metra-95-5026-Installation-2001-up-Vehicles/dp/B000K52CX8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1375172629&sr=8-1&keywords=Scosche+Ford+01-05+Ford+Installation+Kit+Car+Stereo


and this:
http://www.amazon.com/Metra-70-5519-Wiring-Harness-Mustang/dp/B0002BETKY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1375172690&sr=8-4&keywords=metra+2001+mustang+stereo+kit

I'd say use ebay to find a decent used head unit with bluetooth and the above to install your unit and you should be good.

If you want to retain stock & just install a sub and amp it's a simple job.

You just need to purchase a 2 channel line converter.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001EAWS3W/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_3YN5tb0KVS0G4

After that just split that converter into one of your rear speakers. Use the RCA's and plug it into your mono amp and your all good.

I'm assuming you know how to power your amp & hook up your sub to your amp.

You can change the fuel filter extremely easy. If you are skinny and the car isn't dropped, you can change it without jacking the car up. You will need these:

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-37000-Conditioning-Fuel-Disconnect/dp/B0002SRCK6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1413940398&sr=8-3&keywords=fuel+disconnect+tool

and of course a new filter, which is cheap.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-39008-Headlight-Restoration-System/dp/B001AIZ5HY

There's a $5 rebate on it too. You need a drill to attach the pads to, some painters tape, a microfiber towel, and a spray bottle. But it worked flawlessly.

ive heard people mention this one in the past
http://www.amazon.com/Mustang-Cougar-1965-73-Chiltons-Tune-Up/dp/0801974054

no idea of how good it is

Meguire's Hot Shine sprayed on a round applicator pad (I would suggest using gloves).

I'm not sure why it says on the Amazon page to only spray it on directly, I have only ever used a pad to apply it and it works great. On some tires (such as the tires on my dad's 89) if you apply it in direct sunlight it fades and looks bad, but I've never had that issue with mine.

make sure your filter has enough oil on it. the roush ones are a oil based filters, the k&n filter oil plus cleaner what I use, and I have had no issues unless I'm cleaning my engine bay and spray hard near it.


or invest In this: hydro sheild

I live in a pretty strict emisions state and I just had them cut my pipes at the Y and run straight duals out the back. Never had a problem with emissions here. Just keep the cats and have some Flowmaster 40's hooked up. An X or H pipe WILL cut down on noise if you're planning further mods. I didn't really notice until I got my 4.10's but my sixxer howls on the highway now.

Also, I had some horrible touch-up done to my car's hood when I got it and this took care of it. Just rub that across the touch-up and it'll get rid of most of the uneven surface, or at least give you something to start at the base with. If it's not into the base-coat with the scratches I'd try rubbing it out with some Meguiar's scratch-fix 2.0. Stuff works wonders if you're patient enough.

for the rear, lift under the differential (use a hockey puck between the jack and diff cover if your jack doesn't have a pad) and put a jack stand on each side of the car on the frame just in front of where the LCA meets the chassis.

Then lower the jack under the axle which will let you push down the axle so that the springs just fall out.

don't lift the car at the LCA's. They don't seem like they are designed to bear that much pressure on that chassis joint but I could be wrong.

Camber plates are not really needed until you hit about a 2" front drop.

Here's a short list of the most common tools I carry when working on someone's car

Torque wrench

Deep sockets that can take a beating from an impact gun

Extensions (pro tip: if you ever have to change your starter, you will need about 15+ inches of extensions)

And this is the spring compressors I use

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CMDPLM/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also have a 90 something piece craftsman set with most of the 1/4" and 3/8" drive bits and swivels/boxx wrenches, etc but usually use the 1/2 stanley sockets get grabbed first.

These are also super handy if you have a power drill (better yet, a power drill with impact setting)


Mustangs don't really have a whole lot of random tools needed to work on them so unless you have a foreign car, your tool set shouldn't ever really get too complicated.

It's typically when you get blindsided by some small little issue like a rusted or rounded off bolt that can turn a 2 hour job into a 2 day job. I worked on a guy's old fox body to help him replace a clutch and he had 2 stripped transmission bolts. I had these handy which were more or less the only way we could have gotten that done (besides calling a tow truck to take it to a transmission shop)

http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-Tools-394001-Bolt-Grip/dp/B0000CCXVZ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1406576108&sr=8-2&keywords=stripped+bolt+remover