(Part 2) Top products from r/Plumbing

EDIT: OK, I went back and looked at the torch I bought, it says Propane only. I returned it and and got a Berzomatic TS8000

Ok, thanks for the replies!

I picked up this flux: Harris SSWF1 Stay Silv Brazing Flux, 1 lb. Jar, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002075B0U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_790RCb2K2T97F

^(And this torch head: BernzOmatic Basic Use UL2317 Brass Pencil Flame Propane Torch Head) ^(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00008ZA0C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_N.0RCbY4860NK)

^(And did buy propane, but it was only like $6 for 2 camping cans so no big loss.)

I'll grab a can of MAPP.

I assume that because it's only 12 gauge wire and a 20 gauge "solder" it won't take long at all to heat up. As I understand it:

• Clean everything thoroughly. I'll use sandpaper and fine stainless steel brushes.
  
• Apply flux to wires Heat wire until red hot.
  
• Heat "solder" a bit and dip in flux
  
• Heat wires a bit more and touch solder to area.
  
  I've also seen people cut little bits of the soldering wire and place it on the target, then heat the wires until it flows. Is that incorrect?
  
  Thanks again!

Thanks for the follow up, I'm most likely going to pull it out and just replace that last section.

I hadn't bought anything yet, I was basically looking to find a flange that might fit. I think one of the clamp on cast iron flanges might work but after pricing out a full replacement again (with PVC not ABS this time) the price difference isn't really worth the time I'm putting into trying to get around the replacement.

What I was looking at though were the PVC push in designs, had the ID fit. Or this style https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001REGQXI

But I have help coming to help pull out that heavy cast iron tomorrow to get started on this. Also planning on starting drywall this week as well if time allows, can't wait to at least have walls back up

I recently put in a waste king, and I love it. Super quite, and all of them are pretty highly reviewed on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Waste-King-L-2600-Continuous-Operation/dp/B0014X7B54/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397234017&sr=8-1&keywords=garbage+disposal

http://www.amazon.com/Waste-King-L-3300-Continuous-Operation/dp/B0014X7B5E/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1397234023&sr=8-4&keywords=waste+king


Edit: I have the 1/2 hp model, and its never had any issue, and my wife throws EVERYTHING down it.

> https://www.amazon.com/Sloan-3326009-MIX-60-Mechanical-Lavatory/dp/B001BO8TWA/

Honestly I can swing $34 just fine if it saves me a week of landlord phone calls and maintenance appointments. Does this attach directly to the sink somehow? I'm super game to resolve this myself.

Good hardware store might have one, any pluming supply store, online .

http://www.supplyhouse.com/Taco-334-3-Taco-Cast-Iron-Pressure-Reducing-Valve-Dual-Control-Sweat

learn how to solder pipe. lots of Utubes out there, you don't need a fancy rig for homeowner stuff, this is good enough for homeowners.

https://www.amazon.com/BernzOmatic-Basic-UL2317-Pencil-Propane/dp/B00008ZA0C/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1481992375&sr=8-6&keywords=propane+flame+torch

Basically clean the fitting with a fitting cleaning brush, clean the pipe with plumber sandcloth, flux the inside of the fitting, the outside of the pipe, assemble, apply heat , when the flux stops boiling apply the solder to the opposite side of the heat and let it run around.

Don't over heat the fitting if the flux turns black you got it to hot, I usually move the flame around a little when heating the fitting.

If making up adapters solder them to the pipe ( short piece ) before screwing them to the valve.

Buy some extra pipe and fittings and practice, ells are pretty inexpensive, practice on them.

Yeah, I would pull the toilet. I am betting its beyond the toilet though. If it is, you can try one of these once you have the toilet pulled. They work like a champ and are cheaper than renting a snake.

Look at it this way, its an opportunity to replace the wax ring, re-caulk and replace the rusty nuts and bolts on the mounting flange.

Howdy, quick question for you. Do you have a 1/4 turn stop valve that you recommend? I was looking at this Brasscraft one, but was slightly worried by some of the comments talking about how it's pretty good for a "metal / plastic" stop valve (as opposed to an all metal stop valve). Thanks for any input!

these are old leaded flanges, my experience with cast iron and leaded flanges is rather limited due to my age and region. but the best way would be to replace the lead with newer cast iron if that's possible, or buy new flange plates that bolt to the existing floor.
this is a cast iron toilet flange that are much newer and the standard for cast iron applications :http://amzn.com/B001REGQXI
and this is more of a temporary flange you can use to repair what you have that will bolt to the floor: http://amzn.com/B000FHBGEC

Hope you are in a frost free area with that setup? There are dozens of options for hot/cold faucet options: Woodford 22CP-12-MH 12" Hot/Cold Frostfree Horizontal-Mount Faucet - 1/2" MIP or Female Sweat Connection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001R2CXLY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GJVAyb5HTA5A3

I can probably fit a hose to that, but I don't know about the other end. would this hose fit to this faucet? if not, how do I adapt it?

I've never seen the part you're describing all in one piece.

But you might be able to go from this to this to this, to accomplish what I think you are trying to accomplish.

I don't have any personal experience with the Drain King, but it is well reviewed on Amazon. What drain is clogged?

Pencil, marker, clean rag. Kneepads, don't fuck around without knee pads you will regret it.

These in 7,10,12"
These are for when you have smooth surfaces/ new fixtures and you need them looking good. Crescent wrenches are fine but don't open up a damn.
http://www.amazon.com/Knipex-8603250-10-Inch-Pliers-Wrench/dp/B000X4OG94#


Same 7,10,12"
These are 100xs better than channel locks or any other plier on the market, look up reviews, spend the money you will be rewarded.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000X4J2H0/ref=pd_aw_sim_469_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=31LOSVBfTAL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL130_SR130%2C130_&refRID=1H2GD45SXC4HQERP5X1W#

Impact driver, drill, flashlight, sawzall (Milwaukee)

Stanley tape measure or just not a piece of shit, always have a backup.

6 in 1 screwdriver
You will lose the bits so but a decent/ inexpensive one
Torpedo level/ Plumbers grade level
It'll do both

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BYFN4RG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1462941320&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=milwaukee+level&dpPl=1&dpID=41Ip481jzUL&ref=plSrch#

Angle stop wrench/ dumbbell http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002XFW328/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1462941252&sr=8-3&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=angle+stop+wrench&dpPl=1&dpID=31z9chR-rrL&ref=plSrch#

Mapp gas turbotorch/ goss
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D2ZW0SA/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1462941416&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=goss+mapp&dpPl=1&dpID=51Ynt7Fg1OL&ref=plSrch#


That's my quick recommendation, those will be enough to get you into trouble.

https://www.amazon.com/Sloan-3326009-MIX-60-Mechanical-Lavatory/dp/B001BO8TWA/

lets you set the max temp by bleeding cold water into the hot.

these cheap ones don't have a back flow preventer, but you can do all the installation yourself using pre-made flex hoses.

-

i got a nicer one for my sink : https://www.supplyhouse.com/Honeywell-Sparco-AM100-US-1LF-1-2-Lead-Free-Union-Sweat-Mixing-Valves-70-145F

includes back flow prevention, which can help avoid accidentally soaking yourself if you ever need to do maintenance and forget that your hot and cold water lines are now connected. the nicer ones generally use 1/2" FTP connections.

Delta 1600 series shower valve.

https://www.amazon.com/Danco-10004-Delta-Brushed-Nickel/dp/B0040MPK6S

This may fit

I would start with pumice, like this: http://www.amazon.com/Pumie-Toilet-Bowl-Remover-TBR-6/dp/B000BPRDCW

https://www.amazon.com/Pfister-9742910-974291-Replacement-Part-x/dp/B0029PK3QA
Unless you local plumbing supply has it Price Pfister's part number 974-291

Moen 118305 installation tool
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/reviews/B002PB1JJS/ref=cm_cr_dp_mb_see_rcnt?ie=UTF8&s=sd

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Link: http://www.amazon.com/Waste-King-L-2600-Continuous-Operation/dp/B0014X7B54/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397234017&sr=8-1&keywords=garbage+disposalhttp://www.amazon.com/Waste-King-L-3300-Continuous-Operation/dp/B0014X7B5E/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1397234023&sr=8-4&keywords=waste+king


|Country|Link|
|:-----------|:------------|
|Japan|amazon.co.jp|
|Canada|amazon.ca|



This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting).

just buy a new faucet

https://www.amazon.com/Pfister-9742910-974291-Replacement-Part-x/dp/B0029PK3QA

This is the part

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003M8GMUY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JVvCCb7FJ9W07

I bought this for my girlfriends hair. Sits on top. No need to unscrew

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-RP54870-Renovation-Kit-Shower/dp/B003NLHR40/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537796596&sr=8-3&keywords=delta+replacement+shower+handle

Would this work as well? I am missing the handle too so I need it all.

http://www.amazon.com/Ridgid-88387-Power-Drain-Cleaner/dp/B00203U69K

Those have worked for me many times. If it's a long clog, it'll merely drill through it. If it's grease in your lines, it won't clean it off.

Get the Ridgid K-6 toilet auger, or if you're really adventurous, a Korean push bomb plunger.

No idea where you live but if it needs to be a frost proof than woodford is the only way to go


https://www.amazon.com/Woodford-22CP-12-MH-Frostfree-Horizontal-Mount-Faucet/dp/B001R2CXLY

Naa I got a converter kit and a diverter plug. Works perfectly. Cutting into the wall and buying/replacing the valve would have taken many more hours of work and actually would have costed a lot more. No regrets ;D

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NLHR40/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That looks like a lead drain, dont mess with it at all, otherwise you are in for a really really bad expensive time.
Instead buy a repair flange. Bolt it through the existing flange to the floor. Maybe put a bead of silicone between the two. Job done.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FHBGEC?pc_redir=1412261783&robot_redir=1

You just need the right tool for the job is all. Also, don't pour scalding water in there anymore. You're ASKING for bigger problems. Toilets are ceramic... and constantly filled with COLD water. The heat stress can break it. Ever take a glass fresh out of the dishwasher and put cold water in it? POP! It's the same concept, but going from cold to hot instead of hot to cold.

https://www.amazon.com/RIDGID-59797-Toilet-Clogged-Toilets/dp/B000H5XRM6

Available at Home Depot

These seem to be becoming the new standard.
http://www.amazon.com/Knipex-8603250-10-Inch-Pliers-Wrench/dp/B000X4OG94/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1453173766&sr=1-3&keywords=pliers+knipex

I still use regular style channel locks, when lose or break the sets I have I'll probably upgrade.

Paying stupid tax in this one 😞
Wishing I hadn't misplaced the original. So, I'm hearing I should have left a bigger hole around the faucet and that this should fit: Danco 10004 Trim Kit, for Use with Delta Tub and Shower Faucets, Plastic, Brushed Nickel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040MPK6S

No. Even if you do need to shut off the hot, the cold will not need shutting plus DO NOT DRAIN THE TANK. Shut off the supply to tank and open a few hot taps. But.... Check local codes tho I haven't see any against [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003B6JC4A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479603482&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=Add+an+tee&dpPl=1&dpID=41NYFZBMQoL&ref=plSrch) . Assuming it's a 3/8 compression stop, this goes onto the hot valve for the kitchen faucet then the new line for the d/w comes off the side. Also don't forget that any solenoid (electric) valve must have a [water hammer arrester] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D73MFCI/ref=pd_aw_fbt_60_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2DQC7YW7K7DW2D8P069E), in my area anyway. That's dishwasher, washing machine, fridge icemaker / filters.

No worries. Those are precisely the style of angle stop that would create the issue I described.

A good way to test this theory would be to shut the stop off, disconnect the supply line, attach a new supply line, open the stop slowly and run it into a 5 gallon bucket. If the hammering persists then you've found your problem.

If that does turn out to be the problem I would advise replacing both angle stops with Brasscraft 1/4 turn angle stops.