(Part 2) Top products from r/WranglerTJ
We found 12 product mentions on r/WranglerTJ. We ranked the 31 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
21. Crown Automotive 5014148AA Repair Kit
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Package Dimensions: 3.302 H x 8.636 L x 8.382 W (centimetres)Country of Origin : United StatesPackage Weight: 0.15 poundsTransfer Case Shift Linkage Repair Kit
22. Dorman CC649041 Clutch Combination Master Slave Cylinder Assembly
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Pre-filled and pre-bled assemblyFor applications that are difficult to bleed
23. Milwaukee 2625-20 M18 18-Volt Lithium-Ion Cordless Hackzall Reciprocating Saw, Bare Tool
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
One handed design gives you superior control to standard reciprocating saws, especially when you’re working in tight conditionsAnti-vibration handle: the handle is specially designed to reduce user fatigue when ripping through heavier pieces of lumberQuick lok blade Clamp: you need only to tighten...
24. Serfas Cork Bar Tape
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Thin, lightweight, stretchableAdhesive backing for easy installationShock absorbant and washable
25. VHT SP229 Rust Convertor Can - 10.25 oz.
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Rust convertor is a unique product designed to spray directly on rusted areasSprays on clear and turns to a black metalPrevent future rust from formingRust convertor sands to a smooth, even finishThis item is not for sale in Catalina Island
26. SEM 39143 Trim Black Aerosol - 15 oz.
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Sold Individually
27. Red Line (50304) MT-90 75W-90 GL-4 Manual Transmission and Transaxle Lubricant - 1 Quart
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Less slippery low sulfur formula compatible with brass synchronizersStable at high temperatures in performance applicationsAlso available as lighter viscosity like MTL and MT-85Satisfies gear oil viscosity requirements of 75W; 80W; SAE 40 10W40 and 15W40 motor oilPopular in VW Audi; Nissan; Toyota a...
28. Reese 80305 Tow Ready Receiver Extension - 14"
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Ideal for slide-out campers with extended overhangsDesigned to extend the receiver opening 14"Fits a 2" square receiverBlack powder coat finishFeatures E-coated black powder finishAdaptor for 2" receiver that stays a 2" receiver and extends to 14"Have 3500 pounds gross trailer weight ratingThe adapt...
29. LuK 05-065 Clutch Kit
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Each component is engineered and manufactured for flawless performanceEvery LuK product is 100 percent functionally tested to meet OEM performance specificationsAs an original-equipment supplier LuK develops the performance specifications for individual vehicle applicationsPart number: 05-065
30. Bondo Fiberglass Resin Repair Kit, 00420, 0.45 Pint
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Easy Do-it-yourself kit to repair holes and scratches on automobiles, boats and more.Provides 100% waterproof seal for long-lasting, durable repairs.Strong and versatile formula for multiple surfaces including concrete, wood, fiberglass, and metalSandable in under 2 hoursIncludes everything that is ...
I got the Milwaukee 2767-20 specifically because that model sports moderately higher torque than other apparently similar Milwaukee impacts (as of several years ago - maybe new models are even more powerful). I also got the 2719-20 Hackzall which has a brushless motor (apparently what "Fuel" means). However, my dad has the standard-motor 2625-20 Hackzall which is significantly cheaper and works just as well - so I think I'd recommend that one instead.
You might consider picking up replacement bolts before you attack the originals. Even if you do get them out, I think there's a good chance they'll be unusable after you're done. Not sure if they're M12, 1/2", or something else, but any hardware or big-box home store will have something you can use to replace them. Grade 5 (standard) or 8.8 (metric) would almost certainly be fine, but I suppose grade 8 or 12.9 couldn't hurt.
Last but not least, some folks go bonkers over the thought of driving a TJ on the road with disconnected sway bar(s). I DD'd my TJ for 3 months on Atlanta interstates with both sway bars disconnected. It handled like a big ol' town car. I do recommend sway bars for highway driving, but my TJ did not spontaneously flip, wobble, skid, oversteer, understeer, or combust.
Wow that sucks my man
Its just fiberglass. You could have it done by any auto or boat repair place, or just get yourself a little glass mat, resin and hardner, and patch it up yourself. Its surprisingly easy. link for material
Prep is everything with fiberglass, sand and clean the area with acetone or tackcloth. Follow the directions on the fiberglass application. Have some acetone on hand to clean up anything before the resin sets. Touch it up with a little paint after it cures.
Might not turn out beautiful but it'll do the job and be a great intro to fiberglass!
It's likely this. I have the same problem. There's an easy way to know for sure. If you hear the noise, press down or pull up on the 4WD shift selector and it should go away temporarily. Usually it comes from a worn bushing and won't effect anything other than banging around and making noise. I bought this kit to repair it but I never got around to actually installing it. I've kind of gotten used to it. I just push in of pull out the selector a little bit when it gets on my nerves.
However, I have read from some people that sometimes they will slip out of 4WD from this problem. Drive around somewhere safe in 4WD a bit to see if there's some slippage. If that's your case, then you should definitely repair it.
Speaking to the AX15, mine refuses to engage properly, especially in the Colorado winters, without be filled with MT-90. I thought I was going to have to do full rebuild, but just that MT-90 made it good enough. 190,000 miles and only other maintenance has been clutch, flywheel, throwout bearing and slave cylinder (all done together).
This is the one I got. A little overkill, but I wanted the extra support. I drilled extra holes to get it adjusted just right. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CO8RVS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZR61BbAPDV32Q
The bulky spot on the bottom left is where I had excess. I could've avoided it with better planning but I wanted the tape on the bottom. It took 1x 2 pack of wraps to get it done with about 8-10" of excess which I just double wrapped. The wraps cost me $14, I like the look of the cork. Got them on amazon here. Looking for brown/tan electrical tape to put over the black.
I cut the existing cover off. I had to custom cut some pieces for where the outside connects to the inside. I recommend starting on the passenger side below the cruise and working counter clockwise. You'll have to sister the pieces together at the same place on the other side and then your taped end will be on the inside of the vehicle. Or you could get one double length piece if that's possible. I have never used handlebar tape before this.
Just from lots of reading, use a wire brush or wheel to get rid of as much as you can, then use something like this:
VHT SP229 Rust Convertor Can - 10.25 oz. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NUABUO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_tOk3Bb27VP13R