(Part 2) Top products from r/aquarium

I guess for first tanks, start kits seems like the easiest way to go. From my experience to save some money are (although with this hobby, you can't save that much money, haha) to buy the tank during the Petco sale, and buy all the equipment online (Amazon is a good place).

So if you buy each part separately:

$29 = 29G tank -Petco

$10 = Heater -Amazon

$15 = Whisper 30 -Amazon

$15 = [DIY Sliding Aquarium Top] (http://www.amazon.com/Tetra-26447-Submersible-50-Watt-Heater/dp/B000OQO69Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1396577787&sr=8-2&keywords=tetra+heater)


$69 = Total

Not much more expensive than the kit. The 29G comes with a mail in rebate that I'm don't know if it works with your purchases online or not. If it works, you'll get back $10 for the filter and $4 for the heater. Bringing your total to $55.

I would actually buy a more powerful filter than the one included. Probably one rated for two times stronger. A lot of people like aquaclear filters - I don't have personal experience with it but I will buy one next time I need a filter.

You're going to need stronger lights anyways, so I didn't include the light costs.

This is just my opinion! You can do what you'd like for your tank :)

I use a syphon hose. Right here on amazon

I would like to add that I live in Spokane,WA. And use tap water every time.

After every water change I treat my water with Stress Coat

I own 1 Oscar, 1 Red Jewel Cichlid, 1 Convict and 1 Pleco in my 75g.

As far as moving the fish, nothing changes when you go bigger. The steps listed above are perfect. My best advice is, if the fish store can hold the fish for you until you set up your tank at home, do that. Other than that you're just at a race against time from the moment the fish go into the bags. You benefit from being close to your LFS, so don't worry! And post pics when its done!

I know it depends on the type of fish you have, but a slow increase won't be a problem. My temp is that high in the winter and in summer down to something like 7.4. Be careful with pH down as that can create wide swings. I used it many many years ago, but now wouldn't. If you can, this product works great for me. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00025642Q/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Don't know what size tank you have. But, I think I've used about a golf ball sized amount in a mesh bag or pantyhose for maybe a 10 gallon tank. To have a quicker effect, I've added two, but be careful, it may drop too quickly.

Relax, I think you're ok. The "chemical" look on the water surface is probably just bio-film. See this thread for suggestions: https://www.fishlore.com/aquariumfishforum/threads/film-on-water-surface-help.156602/

Have you tested your water's pH, ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates? If not, get a test kit like this: https://www.amazon.com/API-FRESHWATER-800-Test-Freshwater-Aquarium/dp/B000255NCI. Post your results here for advice. But I'm guessing that two 50% water changes every week is more than you need. You can probably cut that back to once a week or once every two weeks. That's assuming your levels are ok and your filter is working as it should.

Based on your photos, I'm guessing your tank is pretty new? The spots of algae on the rocks look like the beginning algae I've seen in newer aquariums. Same for the brown spots on the anubias. Treating your tank with Flourish Excel might help with the algae: https://www.amazon.com/Seachem-67104530-Flourish-Excel-500ml/dp/B000256962/. Or, if your water chemistry tests come back ok, you can get a small shrimp or two to help clean up the algae. You want to make sure your water chemistry is ok for shrimp. Do a little research before you buy any. You don't say how big your tank is, but it can probably take a small shrimp or two.

I've been in the turtle game for about a year now, recently I've upgraded my 55 gallon canister filter to 150 gallon one called Sunsun HW-304B and wow has it been an improvement. Turtles need 3x the filter so if you have 55 gallon tank you're going to need one rated for 150-200 gallons which canister filters are preferred since they can last a long time without cleaning and provide better suction.

If you do go the canister filter route I would get this media kit that has everything you need to started.

As far as chemicals go I would stick with TetraFauna Aquasafe and API Sludge Destroyer, use only a little bit since that will make your water cloudy if you use too much.

To pick up food waste and whatever else get this long pole fishnet instead of those short ones that they sell at pet stores so you can get in there really deep without shoving your arm in.

Turtles also need 2 types of light UVB and heat, I found that this combo lamp works fine.

I wouldn't recommend anything smaller than 10 gallons, personally. I have a really hard time keeping the water parameters where I like them on my 10 gallon.

10 gallons is nice because you aren't limited to just one fish, which is what you would be limited to with anything smaller.

I would recommend a 10 gallon and letting your son pick out the decorations, and put in a few anubias or easy-care plants into the gravel.

As far as your heater goes, I would recommend an adjustable one rather than a single-temp. Additionally, for ease of accurate readings I would buy a digital thermometer.

For filtration, I really like the Marineland hang on the back filters, such as this one.

http://www.amazon.com/Marineland-Penguin-Power-Filter-70-Gallon/dp/B0009IMDQM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1414876612&sr=8-2&keywords=marineland+filter

And for lighting, it all depends on if you decide you want real plants or fake plants - fake plants, any old lighting will work. If you want real plants, I'd recommend the Finnex planted+. I bought a Finnex RayII for my 37gallon and it's too much light, so I'm not getting the growth I'd like since I don't have a CO2 system.

So, so each of those sleeves is something different. Chemical, biological and mechanical filtration. I'll go over each quickly (apologies, this is more than you asked :P)

1. Mechanical. This is normally a sponge/mesh or something similar. It catches things like leaves, bits of food, etc.
   
   
2. Chemical. This is Activated Charcoal. It's an agent that binds to just about anything and is used to remove any impurities from the water. Most aquarists do not use charcoal past the cycling phase of their tank. The reason is because it's not necessary (see below) and because because it binds with EVERYTHING, it will actually remove some good stuff from your tank along with the bad. If you keep replacing it, your tank will be crystal clear, but you have to keep up with it and it's not "stable" in the sense that biological filtering is.
   
   
3. Biological. This is the bacteria that lives in your tank. This is "the cycle" that processes the nitrogen cycle in your tank. This is what is necessary to preserve.
   
   So what I've done with most of my tanks is take those pre-fab things out and just put these in the main compartment. The whole point is just to have a base for the bacteria to grow on so they can do the job of filtering your tank. This is all I run in my tanks, from my 20 up to my 165.
   
   Now, you can do what you've been doing, that's fine and that'll work. But this way is cheaper and more effective, imo. If you DO go this route, you need to get those things get established before you swap them out. Get a media sock and just let them sit on the bottom of your tank for a month or so. Then, you can take out those sleeves and just drop as many of the ceramic things in as will fit.
   
   If you go this route, when you clean the filter, take the rings out and set them aside. Rinse out the main body and put the rings back. If they are REALLY dirty, you can rinse them too, but they don't tend to accumulate much.

There is not enough oxygen in the water. Get a bubbler or another filter that can add more oxygen to the water. thats why theyre jumping out.

remember that water temp changes (by a few degrees) is alot for fish. when im changing the temperature from 80 to 76 it takes me about 2 weeks. Its a very slow process. I would recommend getting this, and this . It makes water changes a breeze. The first is a must if you're lugging water. The second is amazing. I use it because i have extremely mineral heavy water and it really works, I've been doing water changes with these for over two years and I haven't had any issues. The advantage of the tap adapter is that you can add hot water until the water temperature reads the same as the water in the tank.

The filter eliminates 99% chlorine. There are other filters that are cheaper but i haven't found another that eliminates chlorine as well. For good measure you can still add half a dose of stress coat +.

I actually never do that, I always think it just makes the fish stressed out. Here's my routine:

1. I use a mini siphon to take out 25% of the water
   
   
2. Dump out the bucket I put the dirty water in, and rinse it out, then put new, clean water in with some dechlorinator. I use Prime. I always just use my hand to feel that the water is close to the same temperature as what's already in my aquarium.
   
   
3. Very slowly pour the new, clean, dechlorinated water into the tank.
   
   
4. That's it! I always double check my filter to make sure it's not too gunked up, and clean that as necessary, but that's usually like once a month or less.
   

As far as equipment goes, get an AquaClear 20 (or 30) filter, an Aqueon (or other reliable brand, I've used Hydor with good luck) ADJUSTABLE heater. A thermometer. The lights you get depends on what you plan on doing with your tank. You're also going to need a water testing kit, a dechlorinator (most people will recommend Seachem Prime).

Is this going to be your first aquarium?

I honestly am unsure but from personal experience, I recently got these (2 needed) for my 55 and used the bulbs it came with. My plants are flourishing but it has also caused a free floating algae bloom.

hob - aquaclear 20 is really quiet

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hybrid: KollerCraft TOM Rapids Mini Canister Filter

link:

http://www.amazon.com/KollerCraft-Rapids-Mini-Canister-Filter/dp/B000YJ0M1E/ref=sr_1_50?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1463721894&sr=1-50&keywords=sunsun+canister+filter

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Canister: Eheim: http://www.amazon.com/EHEIM-Classic-External-Canister-Filter/dp/B0002AQXTA/ref=sr_1_14?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1463722046&sr=1-14&keywords=canister+filter


or if you need to save a few bucks:
SUNSUN HW-602B

suggest putting foam around the pump portion of this one, as it is known to vibrate a little...

According to AqAdvisor, your stocking level would be at 102% with 6 Neon Tetras, 6 Harlequin Rasbora and 1 Platy (not 2): See Here

Also-- you'll need a better filter as this filter is not enough. I would recommend an Aquaclear 30.

Eheim Jagar, readily available on Amazon.

EHEIM Jager Aquarium Thermostat Heater

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003M7P9YU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_jKgGwb0RM4XKN

Probably select the 200 watt model for a 55 gallon.

If you can't find one pre-made for your tank size then you can go to a local glass shop and they can make you one. Shouldn't cost too much.

Lid handle here: https://www.amazon.com/Marineland-Perfecto-Glass-Canopy-Handle/dp/B00025YRXO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1549525710&sr=8-1&keywords=aquarium+glass+lid+handle

i found all the parts on amazon, they’re just separate

Python No Spill Fish Tank Flow Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NV4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KAb0CbX622T12
Python Aquarium Pump Female Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NW8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fBb0CbRVXE5ZA
Python Aquarium Pump Male Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NWI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ABb0CbSE8N6CY