(Part 3) Top products from r/bikewrench

The cheapest option to get the shifters up to the bars is to use old-school stem shifters. There are plenty of idiots that think they're amateur and will tell you silly things like they impale people in crashes or whatever but it's just more cycling-culture snobbery. Bar-end mounted shifters are nice but if you don't ride on the drops they can still be a reach... and it would cost anywhere from 30-100$ to get them. Brake-shifters are at least 100$ and you'd need to convert to 7 speed at least to use them. Personally I love DT shifters and would encourage you to try and use 'em, it'll become second-nature before long.

I've worked on heaps of bikes just like this at our local co-op and they do indeed last a long time with minimal work. Learn to measure your chain for wear (check the Sheldon Brown link or Park tools) you only need a ruler to do it. Plain old 5/6/7 speed chain is around 10$ for a new one, same with freewheels.

I would buy stainless cables and new housing for the brakes, as well as new pads. The brakes themselves look decent and can provide more than adequate stopping power, the only downside is that they sometimes tend to end up out of centre after a while.

I'll also agree with all the other postsers that Paselas are probably the nicest tire in 27", I have two bikes them and they are pretty good all-around. Continental Gatorskins used to be easy to find in 27" but I haven't looked in a while, they are more flat-resistant but offer a harsher ride because of it.

Take a look at Pedro's tools. They are a little cheaper than Park, but are excellent tools. As /u/singlejeff said, get some basic stuff, but hit up your local co-op for the more expensive tools.

Here is a solid start:

Park Tool ST-3 I use this thing constantly, and Pedro's doesn't have a similar tool.

Pedro's Y Wrench Go ahead and get both the 4,5,6 and 2,2.5,3.

These three tools live in my apron. Absolute go-to tools.

Additionally, get an adjustable wrench(I love my Klein Tools wrench) a set of JIS Screwdrivers so you don't strip out your screw heads,

A good cable cutter

Some important chain tools are the Park CT-3.2 and also pick up the Park MLP 1.2 and CC-3.2(which imo is the absolute easies chain wear checker).

I would also suggest a L Hex wrench set you can pick em up cheaper at Lowes or whatever, but critical for getting stuck pedals off, speaking of which, a Pedal Wrench.

Finally a crank puller you really don't have to go expensive on this thing. I see em as disposable, because as soon as I see thread wear, I shit can em. I stripped out a vintage Stronglight crank and a C Record crankset using a worn out crank puller. No bueno.

All this shit will be expensive, but if bought over time, you will have a solid set of tools eventually. These are my favorite tools, I am sure others have their opinions.

Yes, you can use either one of these, but it looks like you'll also need to lengthen the brake cable. If you get the adjustable one I'm posting, it'll pull the bars back to the rider, giving the same effect, and you might not have to lengthen the cable. all these types of products come in different lengths too. Make sure to measure the stem width, usually 1 1/8th across.

https://www.amazon.com/Suncentech-Adjustable-Mountain-Handlebar-Components/dp/B077JXCKB3/ref=sr_1_7?crid=12BFTSCP9YPP1&keywords=bicycle+handlebar+adjustable+stem+riser&qid=1562554708&s=gateway&sprefix=bicycle+handlebar+adjustable+stem+riser%2Caps%2C230&sr=8-7


https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Bicycle-Extender-Handlebar/dp/B000FGYKWS/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=bicycle+stem+riser&qid=1562555126&s=gateway&sr=8-11

Buy tools as needed, no need to stock up with everything right away. Most park tools I buy on Amazon and get them within two days. Tools I would get right away though would be

• 1" Crescent Wrench
  
• Park Tool Cassette Remover
  
• Chain Whip, for removal of a cassette
  
• Park Tool 3-Way (in 4, 5 & 6mm)
  
• A chain tool of some sorts
  
  As for cabling
  
  Universal Brake Cables on Amazon, just make sure you cut of the correct end.
  
  Here is a shift cable set.
  
  As for cutting the cables and housing, do NOT use standard wire cutters. You need a parrot style nosed set of cutters, like this Pedros set. I bought a cheap set of cutters on eBay that work great. When I cut housing I use a little sand paper to flush up the ends.
  
  The 4th hand is not really needed, I get by fine without it.

https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Tourney-8-Speed-Mountain-Derailleur/dp/B00O7XMG1C

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Like that one?

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There are a couple of others that want me to chose between 'direct attachment' and 'with riveted adapter' like this one:

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https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-RD-A070-Road-Rear-Derailleur/dp/B007Q4PBNO/ref=asc_df_B007Q4PBNO

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Thanks.

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Watching youtube videos about how to replace and adjust a derailleur right now...

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(edit: also https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-RD-TY300-Derailleur-Compatible-Upgraded/dp/B01GO02W5K/ )

No problem! If you broke your last stem over- torquing it, I would actually recommend you get your fork checked out. Lots of times voids/cracks can propogate without you seeing anything. This is a company that is highly regarded for their non-destructive testing methods- expensive, but a fork snap can end your life (someone just died in the US a few weeks ago from fork steerer failure). Or buy a replacement fork if that's cheaper.

As far as fitting the stem, I would suggest to the mechanic that he measure the internal diameter of the stem with digital calipers, and then measure the outside diameter of the steerer tube. The fork may say 1.25 on it, which he might interpret the wrong way and could be what is causing confusion. That measurement only refers to the bottom OD of the fork at the crown race, NOT the top of the fork where the stem mounts.

I'm going to say this again though- if he can't figure out how to put a stem on a bike, it is probably better to find someone else or do it yourself. Please use a torque wrench though this time and follow all the manufacturer's instructions. You can get torque keys with preset torque values very inexpensively and they will save you so much trouble.

Good luck!

I'm seeing the Park PCS 9 on Amazon for about $120.
http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-PCS-9-Mechanic-Repair/dp/B000OZFJTI

I have the PCS 10, but I think the PCS 9 is pretty good too.

I got some downtube shifters from amazon pretty cheap, and they've been working great for me so far.

They look cheap, because they are cheap, but I liked them more than my stem shifters. I didn't want to disassemble my stem shifters to put on this bracket, but you probably could if you wanted.

http://www.amazon.com/Sunrace-SLR03-Friction-Stem-Shifter/dp/B0084UHAJM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449807462&sr=8-2&keywords=Downtube+shifters

EDIT: they even came with cables

These Weras are, by far, the best hexes I have ever used:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ODV0OE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Edited to add: Are you on a carbon or aluminum frame? Sounds like you need fiber grip or something in there.

1. Pedro's has a torque wrench for $150. I like their other tools, but I haven't used this because I don't use torque wrenches. Park Tool has a cheaper one (http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Ratcheting-Torque-Wrench/dp/B0042F8BG4/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=0WB6GBF046GHCXJ6EEH3) but you don't hear good things about cheap torque wrenches.
   
   
2. Brakleen is what you want to use for brake rotors.
   
   
3. Park Tool has some relatively inexpensive folding stands. such as http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-PCS-9-Mechanic-Repair/dp/B000OZFJTI/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1405950778&sr=1-1&keywords=pcs-9
   
   Rear derailleur: Loosen the cable. Make sure your H screw is set so the upper pulley is in line with the smallest cog. Tighten the cable. Shift once. If it doesn't make it to the next gear, tighten the cable by turning the barrel adjuster counter-clockwise. If it shifts too far, loosen the cable by turning the barrel adjuster clockwise. Continue in this fashion all the way through the gears, making small adjustments if needed as you go along. When you reach the lowest gear, push on the derailleur gently while pedaling to make sure the L screw is set properly. If it hits the spokes, tighten it a quarter-turn at a time until it doesn't. Shift all the way back down to high gear again. If the shifts are slow, loosen the cable. If the shifts jump down 2 cogs, tighten the cable.
   
   That should do it. If this doesn't fix the problem, you likely need a new cable.

Hmmm, I know those bolts. So the wrench I linked to isn't going to work. This one will, but doesn't have the pedal wrench (but is overall a slightly nicer tool.

Did you try using a cheater bar slipped on the end of the wrench? Did you try all this with two people--one holding the bike secure and upright, one wrenching on the wrench?

You are wrenching in the right direction, correct?

Sorry its giving you so much trouble.

As a side note, I was taught to never grease the BB shafts. This is because the spindle is hardened steel and the crank arms are (99.9 percent of the time) aluminum, and the grease combined with the torque of the bolt will actually allow you to bring the crank arm too high on the ramped spindle, leading to just this issue--as well as disfiguring the crank arm (all this assumes you have square tapered crank arms and bb).

Okay, so with $200, assuming I was doing the work:

Wrap handlebars - $11.53 (sweet dark red, cause the red on there looks awesome already)
Cheap 700c wheels from co-op - $20? (Talk with them about the gearing to see if the range is the same, or if you want tighter range or whatever, they probably have a few sets there with somewhat different gear ranges on the rear)
Saddle from co-op - $5-10
Tubes/tires - $45 (tires, tubes)
Derailleur cables - $7 (Shimano, here)
Brake cables - $10.39 (Shimano, here)
Brake levers - $22.53 (Tektro RL340)
Brakes - $62 - (Tektro 539 rear, front)
5-speed chain - 7.98 (here)

Then I'd try to get pedals and a cheap but aluminum quill stem, handlebars, and seatpost from the co-op. Depending on where you are, you may be able to get all for $20 or less. Functional new parts suggestions: (not guaranteed to fit. These have all sorts of different diameters over the years/models, so you need to know what you have/need. Handlebars, Seatpost, stem.)

ok last thing http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Q4PBNO/ or http://www.amazon.com//dp/B007Q4PGPM/

whats the dif with Smart Direct Mount or Smart Mount with Bracket

You're not building a rocket. The torque specs on cockpit components are not about achieving a specific clamping force, they're about not crushing the CF tubes. Extreme accuracy is really not important -- the specs have tons of margin. I really like something like the Ritchey Torque Key (https://www.amazon.com/Ritchey-TorqKey-5Nm-bits-T-15/dp/B009F93S9C) for this. No settings, no readings, almost impossible to screw up, accurate enough for what you're trying to do.

For things where torque specs are actually related to mechanical function (cassette lock ring, external BB cups, SRAM GXP cranks, etc.) any inexpensive 1/2" beam-type wrench will be good enough.

areas of concern:

• tires, especially older tires with gum-colored sidewalls, tend to dry rot to the point of needing replacement
  
  
  
• rubber brake pads will release their plasticizers with age and begin to dry, crack, harden, and sometimes glaze, requiring replacement
  
  
  
• cables may be corroded inside the housing, making it difficult to shift/brake properly (this stuff is amazing, many graphite-based lubricants are suitable substitues, the idea is to free up crusty or rusted cables with something that won't gum up over time)
  
  
  the chain may still be good to go. i argue with coworkers who insist that any visible rust means the chain has to be replaced. my philosophy is as long as stiff links can be worked out and you're dealing with a reasonable amount of surface rust, corrosion isn't a big deal.

No problem, in no particular order of relevance, a few other great ones to consider are:

Knipex Pliers Wrench - My single favorite tool ever

Felco C7 Cable Cutters - You can usually find these used and sharpened for $20 on eBay

Dualco Grease Gun - Your bike needs grease, this makes it easy

Motorex 2000 Waterproof Grease - Can grease be beautiful? I think so. Exactly like the Dura Ace grease

Wera Hex+ Keys - I know you have some already, but the slightly scalloped faces of these "hex plus" keys really do allow you to remove very stuck fasteners without stripping, and I have even removed bolts stripped with standard keys

You'll want something like this Wheelmaster

You can get the front and rear together for about $90, and they generally get good reviews.

Also note, if the bike has friction shifters you could step up to a 7 speed cassette from the 6.

Sorry to hear about you getting hurt.

I'm not familiar with the assembly paste Shimano ships with their carbon fiber parts, but here's what I use: Finish Line Fiber Grip

With barely any torque it locks my bars in place better than full torque spec did without it, and it gets a lot better with additional torque. I also carry this tiny torque wrench on longer rides so I have no excuse for my bars coming loose.

>Would something like this work?

>http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-BR-5700-L-RC55C3-Cartridge-Brake/dp/B004JKJKWG/[2]

Yes.
(Source: Have the same calipers on one of my bikes)

If you've got a few buck left over after replacing the chain and such, buy one of these. Its a chain gauge, and is essentially a little ruler that indicates how much your chain has stretched. It can identify when your chain should be replaced long before it gets this stretched. You'll end up replacing your chain more often, but you'll limit the wear on your gears so they'll last longer.

You stick the curved bit into a link on the chain and the pokey bit on the other end may or may not fit into another chain link. There are 2 sides, one indicates your chain has reached 50% wear, another for 75%. If that side falls into a gap in the chain, it is at least hat far into its life. If it hits a pin and can't be pushed through, it's newer than that indicator. So you can make a good guess at how far into its usable lifespan the chain is.

Surly is one of the retro touring brands that still uses 25.4 stems on some of the bikes. Bars made of chromoly steel there's less/no advantage to larger 31.8 clamp

Just had a thought though, you can buy a shim for it so it will work with your current stem like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Wheels-Manufacturing-25-4-31-8-Handlebar-Shim/dp/B000AO5FME

> Just to be sure, I looked at the freewheel hubs and wheelsets in local e-shops, they're all 130

Huh


http://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/wheel-master-alloy-sf-rear-hub-36h-126mm-sealed-bearing-qr-black?gclid=CjwKEAjwya-6BRDR3p6FuY2-u3MSJAD1paxT8wBnwk9VQ6Em86ERmXGa3vQFOqaKxwUuIesXLAC71BoCfvTw_wcB

http://www.modernbike.com/product-2126187580?gclid=CjwKEAjwya-6BRDR3p6FuY2-u3MSJAD1paxTN44_FNkVm61aQiu5UYy17jHIK-csziK5q_R7K16E4BoCo-Tw_wcB

http://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Master-Bicycle-Freewheel-Silver/dp/B000AO5FAQ?ie=UTF8&keywords=freewheel%20bicycle%20wheel&qid=1464631004&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

I would expect all MTB freewheel hubs to be 135 today, all road 126.

Just Riding Along.

chain checker will check for pin wear (sometimes called chain stretch. It's one dynamic of wear that can be measure. Lateral slop can't be measured as it were but can affect shifting and performance.

You can spin chain rings and cogs to see if they're straight.

You can use them together with a shim: https://www.amazon.com/Wheels-Manufacturing-25-4-31-8-Handlebar-Shim/dp/B000AO5FME

You could make such a shim yourself if you have the raw materials around. Brass or soft aluminum would be easy.

That's a long cage, which you probably won't need looking at your bike.

See this link for more information on cage length.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Q4PBNO/ might be better. Read the above link though and work out what cage length you need.

thanks for the advice. Ordered these form Amazon.ca which I think are the same as the linked nashbar ones. http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B004JKJKWG/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This (brakes) plus this (shifts) comes out under $20.

I find it hard to imagine them any cheaper. A complete set of the black-coated inners costs pretty close to that at most LBSs.

Hmm you are right, that picture does show a 1 piece crankset, though this one on the Fuji site shows a 3 piece: http://www.fujibikes.com/usa/bikes/cruiser-comfort/beach-cruiser/cape-may

If you have a one piece, you can use this adapter to convert to three piece https://www.amazon.com/Truvativ-00-6415-027-000-American-To-Euro-Bmx-Adapter/dp/B000VT550K

Most chain tensioners are not designed for wide ranging chain slack, but a rear derailleur is designed for that. I would recommend using one even if you don't run gears on the back

if the chain is getting slack every two weeks then maybe the wheel is moving in the dropout? it shouldn't stretch that much that fast

Definitely sand the braking surface down. You want rubber on aluminum for stopping power, not rubber on paint. Grab these pads. In the future, you can keep the cartridge and just replace the pad... it'll be even cheaper.

Frame Saver is fine, but sort of a waste of money. Boesheild T-9 works better, comes in larger bottles, and is cheaper by volume. It also has more applications than Frame Saver, so there's added value there, too.

you need something like this http://www.amazon.com/Bike-Bicycle-Cycle-Crank-Puller/dp/B006UMFUES/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1411831580&sr=8-3&keywords=crank+tool which is a combination of a socket/wrench (one end) that removes the screw and a puller (the other end) that removes the crank.

here's a video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kQoGS3YjBXk (doesn't matter whether it's a mountain bike or not - i am pretty sure what you have is a square taper crank).

http://sheldonbrown.com/upgrade.html

Has some advice for respacing and getting new wheels to fit.

You can get some new 27 wheels

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AO5FAQ

but they're going to be cheep machine built single walled rims and I can't recommend them.

Until recently I thought Velocity still made the Dyad (good solid touring quality rim) in 27", but I can't find any in-stock.

They do have

synergy and aero rims in 27" which are double walled and availble in 36 spoke count

They also have a fully built wheel, handbuilt 36 spokes would come out to about $100. Would still use a freewheel so you're existing drivetrain should be compatible, but frame spacing is 130mm which is probably wider than what you have (120 or 126). Take a look at sheldon brown's frame-spacing or you're LBS 'might' do it (don't be surprised if the don't though because of liability issues)

You also have the option of using a seat post clamp with eyelets, for example;

M-Wave Seat Post Clamp with Rack Mounts, 31.8mm, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001V537I0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iahxDbZMT1YBS

Unless your frame has an integrated clamp, of course.

Ten bucks, if you've got Prime (and why wouldn't you?).

While you have the cable off, squirt some of this into the housing:

https://www.amazon.com/Bike-Aid-Dri-Slide-4oz-Needle-Nozzle/dp/B001F2Y25G/ref=mp_s_a_1_8?keywords=motorcycle+cable+lube&qid=1565823340&s=gateway&sprefix=motorcycle+cable+lube&sr=8-8#aw-udpv3-customer-reviews_feature_div

You don't need much; I've had the same bottle for 5+ years and it's really helped me get a lot of life out of my cables.

All of that will likely make it more slippery. Just use friction paste!

https://www.amazon.com/Finish-Line-Bicycle-Assembly-1-75-Ounce/dp/B0012RIEM6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502601421&sr=8-1&keywords=finish+line+fiber+grip

I use this on all compression joint faces: seat tube, saddle rails, stem/steerer/bars, and not just on carbon.

There are different diameters. Most cartridge BBs are 68mm, with some 73mm.

I think this is your only option.

I use this - Park Tool CCW-5 Crank Bolt Wrench https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0012Q5XAS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VTUlzbT7RY36V

If it's the 28 TPI American size one piece, this is the adapter you're talking about. Going to need to remove the pressed in cups and then press in the adapter. After that OP can put any standard 68mm BSA BB in as far as I know.

These bars should work with your old components. It's much cheaper to buy new bars than it it is to buy a new brake levers and shifters.

Edit: saw the stem has a 31.8 clamp diamater. Get a shim to.

Park Tool makes a specific fixed wrench just for this application, the CCW-5. Not that it's necessary for it to be bike specific or anything. Only $12 on amazon

I wanted to also mention that it may be the shifters themselves, depending on age and storage conditions. I see a lot of shifters with dried up grease that freezes the small moving parts in them, but that usually takes years of non-use.

If you just need to lube your cables and derailleur pivots, use Dri-Slide. Apply it sparingly, wipe off the excess, and do not get any in your eyes.

To make this fit on your bike, you’re gonna need a few different parts.

First something to fix the rack towards where the seatstay eyelets would be. Something like this;
seatstay rack adapter


Then something to set the rack where the dropouts eyelets would be;
dropout rack adapter

This will work but it is defenitly not the most optimal setting since you bike is not built to carry a pannier rack.

Those cogs look fine man, if you suspect chain wear theres a tool for that

Park Tool CC-3.2 Chain Checker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BR3LHQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_BMtSCbQXRJKF6

don't get the seatpost rack, not nearly strong enough. Try this instead

I made a mistake and typed 8 instead of 7; Sorry about that.
I found this, but it only goes to 7 gears.

that link also indicates this derailleur is a copy of an older version of the Shimano Tourney derailleur. the modern replacement Tourney doesn't look exactly the same but it will do the same job for cheap. make sure to match the style of derailleur hanger to the broken one, notice in the first link the topmost part of the der. has a little slot for the axle to slide into, whereas the second link has a simple bolt. this is what you are matching.

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Tourney-TX35-Derailleur-Speed/dp/B003ZMH69S/ref=pd_sim_sg_1

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Tourney-TX75-Speed-Derailleur/dp/B003ZM9REA

Best way to check it is to just spin the cassette with your hand. Does anything feel crunchy? Is it smooth? Is there any (significant) play or looseness?

Unless you notice anything wrong you're pretty much good to go. If you thinking the bearings need some lube you could spray a bit of T-9 in the hub-no disassembly required.

Tbh shimano hubs are pretty bad imo and if the freehub (or any other part of the hub) is starting to fail on you it would be prudent to just go ahead and replace the whole hub. Possibly the whole wheel as that would likely be cheaper, especially if you go used. Deore hubs are very low end and they have terrible terrible loose ball bearings. Not even worth fixing most of the time.

you've got the wrong fork extender

https://smile.amazon.com/Delta-Cycle-Bicycle-Extender-Handlebar/dp/B000FGYKWS/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=stem+riser&qid=1557329666&s=gateway&sr=8-9

I've extended steerer tubes on several bikes. The I've owned this bike for many years (it has an old style headset).

http://i.imgur.com/Zef8Dlp.jpg

The parts are readily avalable at Amazon or eBay...

http://www.amazon.com/Delta-Alloy-Bicycle-Raiser-8-Inch/dp/B000FGYKWS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415419343&sr=8-1&keywords=steering+tube+extender

The above comes in a short or long version. I've had these on my bikes for quite some time, and no problems.

There are some awful reviews. This is something you should only need to buy once in your lifetime.
Check out Feedback or Park brands. Check Craigslist, as I have seen them for sale there. There may be some options on eBay, though I have never checked.
Here's a nice one: http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-PCS-9-Mechanic-Repair/dp/B000OZFJTI/ref=sr_1_23?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1395455365&sr=1-23&keywords=feedback+sports