(Part 3) Top products from r/cars

All I could find is this: http://powerhouse411.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1_5

There are much cheaper eBay kits, but I think it goes without saying that if you know anything about turbocharging a vehicle you don't want to get an entire kit off of eBay.

You can do it for cheaper if you're handy and want to DIY, I recommend reading both http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1932494294?pc_redir=1410935474&robot_redir=1

And: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/0837601606?pc_redir=1410868060&robot_redir=1


The first deals heavily into understanding how it all works and makes you more comfortable with the process. The second will teach you everything you need to know about adding a turbo to a (your) vehicle.

Reading these will save you a lot of money if you end up deciding not to turbo your car, or they will build your confidence in it. I think a turbo V6 would be unique instead of the "V8 cop out".

After that do as much research as you can into your vehicle and read up on some v6 turbo builds, I'm sure it's been done. A turbo v6 can end up putting down some serious power (Note: GNX). Reading other builds will give you an idea of the overall cost. If you can part together a decent kit for pretty cheap, you still have to see if the trans and supporting parts can handle it.

http://www.mustangevolution.com/forum/f133/t10565/


If you're still interested after all of that, don't rule out superchargers! Larger engines tend to accept them better and you won't experience any lag.

Keep your car clean. Turtle actually has a really nice interior cleaner which smells like Meguiar's leather conditioner, except, you can use it on everything. I use a combination of those two and it gives a hint of leather scent with a nice sweet berry type of smell.

As far as best car fresheners, most spray ones only last a week or so. If you want one of those that you stick to your dash or you hide in your map pocket's cup holder, japanese ones are the best bet. This one for example is a huge favorite of mine, it's what my dad always got and it looks sick. The japanese squash smell is really clean smelling and its sweet, kinda smells like the taste of soda candy. This brand is great too and one I have personal experience with, lasts a long time, a few months I'd say.

Here's a long thing I wrote for a friend just getting started. It was an email and i don't feel like fixing links.

1. Menzerna (Now called Jescar) Power lock Sealant:
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050IQH9K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
2. Optimum Spray Wax (this is a topper wax to go on top the sealant, or touch up areas any time):
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GG9FI8I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
3. Meguiar's Drying Towels (I HIGHLY recommend these, super effective) I got 2:
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009IQZFM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
4. Mother's detailer kit (gives you detail spray, clay bars, and micro fiber towel as a bonus)
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Mothers-07240-California-Gold-System/dp/B0002U2V1Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1476666101&sr=8-3&keywords=mother%27s+detail+kit
   
   
5. Applicator pads
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Viking-862400-Blue-Microfiber-Applicator/dp/B0051MYL8E/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1476666178&sr=8-3&keywords=wax+applicator
   
   
6. Buffing towels (for buffing in the wax or sealant)
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Detailing-Multi-Use-Microfiber-Professional-Dual-Pile/dp/B01L4L4L26/ref=sr_1_17?ie=UTF8&qid=1476666651&sr=8-17&keywords=microfiber+buffing+towel
   
   
   
7. Proper wash mitt (just a microfiber towel won't cut it) - there's also a 2 pack with prime.
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Meguiars-X3002-Microfiber-Wash-Mitt/dp/B000RXKR6M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476667551&sr=8-1&keywords=meguiars+wash+mitt
   
   
8. Car wash (this can be found at any autozone like store as well, this is a big bottle)
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05664-California-Gold-Wash/dp/B0009H51B2/ref=sr_1_9?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1476668207&sr=8-9&keywords=car+wash&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
   
   
   
   
   Do you have 2 buckets to use? Always set one bucket up with the soap water, and the other with just water. Soak up your mitt, wash the car, rinse the mitt, then soak again in the soap water. This helps reduce contaminants. If you want to go the extra mile, get these for the buckets to prevent dirt from swashing around the bucket:
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Grit-Guard-Insert-Red-Diameter/dp/B000N3W8J0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1476667750&sr=8-2&keywords=grit+guard
   
   It fits in a home depot bucket.
   
   If you have particularly pesky tar or bugs on the car, you'll need this that you can get from any autozone type store:
   
   https://smile.amazon.com/Stoner-Car-Care-Tarminator-Remover/dp/B0002LBGWI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1476667917&sr=8-1&keywords=tarminator
   
   WARNING **
   
   When using the power lock (or any sealant / non-liquid wax), DO NOT let it touch any black plastic or rubber parts of the car!!!!! If it does, just wipe it off with a wet micro fiber cloth. Failure to follow this will result in a white hue on the black piece. You could always painter's tape off those areas that are hard to avoid.
   
   Steps for this process:
   
   
9. wash the car, two bucket method with wash mitt.
   
   1b) Bring the car to an area with as little sun light as possible for the next steps!
   
   
10. Leave car wet. Use detail spray to keep all surfaces lubricated. Rub all surfaces down with a flat piece of the clay bar (flatten in your hand). About 2" diameter or so. Every panel or when the clay bar looks dirty, just kneed it a few times, folding it and re-flattening it. Every so often, throw out the clay and get some more. If you drop the clay on the ground, it's garbage throw it out. Each clay bar should last you multiple details of your whole car, just tear pieces off.
    
    
11. Dry the car down with the MF drying towels. Buff in any water spots, streaks, etc from the detail spray. If an area needs a little extra love, spray some detail spray on it and rub her in.
    
    
12. Use applicator pad. Apply a bit of sealant on the pad, even it out in the pad, and apply a thin layer of wax across the paint surface (NOT BLACK TRIM). You can use sealant on windows if you desire. Re-apply sealant to the applicator pad whenever you need more.
    
    
13. let the sealant dry (20-30 minutes, depending on conditions). It will haze when dry.
    
    
14. Use buffing cloths to wipe the haze out. You may need to do some hand "buffing", use different angles of sight to make sure the paint is now completely smooth and clean.
    
    
15. Let dry a bit, 20 minutes?
    
    
16. Spray VERY LIGHTLY with the optimum spray wax on paint surfaces. There are 2 settings on the bottle, make sure it is on the setting that spreads out the wax not a stream.
    
    
17. Buff in the spray wax with buffing towels.
    
    
18. ENJOY protection. Watch the beads of water fly off the car for the entire season.

Congrats on a huge gift at a young age. You've gotten great advice form others on this thread so I'll keep most of my comments to what you asked:

The first "mod" I purchased and installed was a 2-channel Dashcam, wired to the fusebox to allow for recording when the vehicle is parked for hours while at work/school. While it won't prevent someone from messing with your car; it will at least capture what happened to help in identifying the perps and for insurance purposes. It will give you a lot of peace of mind.

You can also get the car wrapped.

Finally; just please don't be a mustang-douche. We get a bad rep on the road, some of which is earned, but just don't be that guy. It does seem like you understand how fortunate you are so as long as you keep that humble attitude then just have fun with the 'Stang. Welcome to the club.

You can't clear up a solid 2-4 hours to clean your car?

Honestly, some good car soap/shampoo, a bucket/grit gaurd, some good wax, and few cans of engine degreaser should be all you need to look pretty good.

I'd recommend this, this, and these to get started.

After you get the engine clean, and the outside cleaned and waxed, just vacuum out the inside and clean up any dust, grit, or dirt you might see. This should all take about 4 hours if you take your time.

I tend to think the same way you do. Don't know where to start, just wish I could have someone explain everything and let me ask questions. While I'm sure that exists in the sense that there might be some expert out there willing to sit down and teach it, but what you're asking for is a course and instruction. Again, I'm sure that exists and it will cost money, I don't know where to start with that.

Otherwise it is completely up to you. Start scouring the internet, look through build threads and tuning forums, and read books on the subject. I just finished this one and I think it is a pretty good place to start if you need the basics on turbos. After that I'm moving on to this one to learn more about tuning. Just like most things in life, there is no easy button. If you want to learn it you have to do it yourself.

Wow. I should get into paint correction. <$250 for all the tools and polish and waxes. As a car guy, I don't mind waxing my car every 6 months (or 4 months if you're in the frigid north or are anal). I also feel it's foolish to drop $2k-4k on these nano-quartz-bullshit schemes that a lot of car guys swear by nowadays. If you want to drop $4k on paint protection, go for it, but I can get a full window-out repaint for the same price!

Here's what I learned:

Buy the equipment:

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46

https://www.amazon.com/Dual-Action-Hook-Flexible-Backing-Plate/dp/B0008G1RDK

https://www.costco.com/Kirkland-Signature-Microfiber-Towel-Case%2C-324-count.product.100341124.html

https://www.amazon.com/Collinite-Liquid-Insulator-Wax-845/dp/B000JK2D06

http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country-beveled-pad-kit.html (MIN: 2 orange, 2 white, 1 black, 1 blue -- I prefer doubling this order; Autogeek almost always has 10-25% off coupons on their mailing list)

You will also need an extension wire with the appropriate gauge (too thin/cheap cables might cause you to burn your Porter Cable motor!)


Buy the compounds (start with UC; if swirls aren't getting cut, move up to 50%/50% UC and 105 on the pads; finish with 205 regardless):

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G17216-Ultimate-Compound-15-2/dp/B001O7PNNM (medium aggressive)

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Ultra-Cut-Compound/dp/B003LMGDHI (most aggressive)

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-Mirror-Glaze-Finishing-Polish/dp/B001O7PNXC

Wash your car with this, and the two-bucket method:

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G7164-Class-Shampoo-Conditioner/dp/B0009IQXFO

https://www.amazon.com/Zwipes-Chenille-Microfiber-Premium-Scratch-Free/dp/B002J7KCOG

Claybar the car:

https://www.amazon.com/YGDZ-Quality-Detailing-Claybar-Shipping/dp/B01MF4BVVS

It took me about 5-6 relaxed hours on a Sunday with a few beers for the full correction. Now I simply top up the wax every few months (and that only takes 30 min).

The thing is, once you do the full correction and get rid of all your swirls and scuffs and whatever clearcoat damage (wash + claybar + M105/UC + M205 + wax), then you don't have to do the FULL correction ever again.

Ever again meaning, if you wash the car properly thereafter with the two-bucket method. You'll simply need to top up the wax once it stops beading -- the wax will protect the clearcoat from damage and swirls.

My wax lasted 6+ months being daily driven in the California sun with three coats of Collinite 845 -- I assume if yours will see more snow and ice and rain, perhaps it'll only last 3-4 months. But since a bottle costs <$20 and you'll get at least 36+ layers out of it, I always recommend this versus the "nano coatings" that people are shelling out $2-4k for.

Here's the Collinite fanboy thread:

https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-articles/40243-collinite-845-definitive-how-guide-legendary-wax.html

Any other questions, feel free to ask. Good luck!

Walkie talkies and their chargers are always nice. Good to always have an inverter too so you can actually charge things with normal plugs.

Bring water and juice, snacks etc. But all in a cooler that you can actually open while driving. Hopefully your passengers can reach it in the trunk if need be or have it so it won't obstruct leg room. For a long road trip, I usually leave the entire back seat for 1 person. That way they can stretch out or sleep while the front passenger and driver have all the leg room if they choose to scoot the seat back.

As for cars - oil change, check your belts, check the condition of your tires and make sure they are filled to spec (no over, even if you want that extra 2 mpg fuel economy). Bring an electric tire pump with you too. If your car has a spare tire, make sure your tire is in decent condition, and make sure your jack is functioning. No point in a spare tire if you can't get the car lifted.

If you don't have a spare tire, or just want options, get a tire filling/repair kit. It will at least get you to the next town.

As for drivers. Some may have an ego and want to show other how long they can drive for. Make sure everyone understands, if you are in any bit tired - pass the wheel to someone else. If you don't have enough drivers, then pull over and get rest. Even a 15 to 30 minute nap can save lives.

I've done some pretty grueling road trips and I always enjoy bringing my laptop (here is where the power converter comes in handy), some speakers if you can't hook into your car's speakers, and my harddrive full of movies and tv shows. Don't rely on netflix through your phone as you won't get good service on half the drive (and because data use can get pretty high pretty quickly).

Source: for 2 years in college, i did 6 total road trips. Some were as short as 1000 miles, some were as long as 2500 spanning from Maryland to the north western tip of Washington which also had to be completed in about 3 days. That trip only had 2 drivers per vehicle with 2 vehicles to move. A terrible box truck limited to 70mph and a rental camry. The Rockies and national parks were amazing. We camped out at a state park one night and woke up about 15 yards from a moose (not a good thing). Once you get into the mid-west, it's all downhill from there. The middle of the continent is nothing but flat ground and farms. Ohio is a terrible state to drive in, Pennsylvania gets really hairy with their downhill mountains in a semi-poorly loaded box truck, and the entire east coast has shitty traffic.



Edit: reading through the responses here, I should state the radios I had for the trip cost several hundred dollars and had a range of about 1/2 mile. If you're using cheapo 20$ units from radio shack, probably best to not even bother purchasing them. Phones may be better.

No touching the drain plug or having to crawl under the car. Can use this to change all your fluids, without getting your "hands dirty". Can become best friends to all your friends/family when you loan it to them for easy oil changes lol.

I bought this one but used off kijiji. It was a great deal. Highly recommend the 7201 model, as it's container size will be big enough to extract all the motor oil.

https://www.amazon.ca/Mityvac-7201-Fluid-Evacuator-Plus/dp/B0002SR7TC

If you'd like to learn to be a better driver and gain some knowledge about the fastest way to get around a track, I recommend reading something like this book, it made me aware of mistakes I was making and is very easy to read. it shows diagrams of lines to take into corners etc. It doesn't have to be that one, there are many like it, that's just the one I personally used.

Blackvue DR650S-2CH as some have already recommended, but I would order it with the Power Magic Pro, which is basically an add-a-fuse kit so that the camera has power when parked but won't drain the battery below a set voltage level.

It also records if there's any motion or g-sensor activated while in parking mode. This is pretty high-end as far as dashcams go (and priced accordingly) but it fulfills all your criteria and is certainly better quality controlled than any of the no-branded dashcams.

Definitely check out r/AutoDetailing,

But some quick tips, make sure you get a dual action orbital polisher, not a normal rotary polisher. It's pretty easy to mess up your paint with a normal one if you're not well practiced, but DA polishers are pretty easy to use as long as you pay attention to what you're doing. There's also random orbit polishers, but those don't generally provide enough power to do any serious paint correction...

​

Examples:

Rotary polisher (hard to use): https://www.amazon.com/POLISHFLEX-Compact-Variable-Rotary-Polisher/dp/B004XAN4M4/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=rotary+polisher&qid=1551213120&s=gateway&sr=8-12

​

Random orbit polisher (no power):

https://www.amazon.com/DECKER-WP900-6-Inch-Random-Polisher/dp/B000077CPT/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=rotary+polisher&qid=1551213120&s=gateway&sr=8-10

​

Dual Action polisher (what you probably want...):

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-7424XP-6-Inch-Variable-Speed-Polisher/dp/B002654I46/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=rotary+polisher&qid=1551213120&s=gateway&sr=8-7

There's a smaller sized blue OBD2 plug in on Amazon it goes along the lines of "panlong" or something, it's only like $10-15, works fine in my Lexus and Mercedes, it's able to clear errors and stuff, real-time info works well. And it's really low profile unlike those other adapters so if it sticks straight into the foot well it won't bother you



Edit: it's $11

Works fantastic with torque pro
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PJPHEBO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_o..cBbK4QXZ3R

wow. OBD2 adapter sounds amazing.

Are you talking about something like this?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PJPHEBO/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=1944687682&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B005M1AVFQ&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1Y5W4CZTQWWW2PE8AAC3

http://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Scanner-Adapter-Diagnostic-Trouble/dp/B00WPW6BAE/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1464114967&sr=1-1&keywords=OBD2+iphone


I only have an iPhone.

Bob Lutz, who was President of Chrysler during the Neon years, wrote a book called Car Guys vs. Bean Counters: The Battle for the Soul of American Business. If there was a car that represented this battle better than the Neon, I couldn't think of it.

For the most part, the Neon was fun to drive. The engineers made sure of that, especially if you got the five speed. It was lightweight, tossable, and had razor sharp cornering.

Then why was it such a piece of junk? The accountants decided that this car would be less expensive than the Japanese cars. Why? I'm not sure. The reason the Japanese cars were cheaper were due to a weak yen / strong dollar in the mid-90s as well as lower wages. But most importantly, the reason why the Japanese could sell the exact same car for less was due to lean manufacturing and good supplier relations.

Chrysler did not have lean manufacturing, good supplier relations, or a weak yen. Thus, to compete on price, they had to make the car a piece of junk. And they succeeded at this. Cut a dollar here by making the head gaskets as cheap as possibly. Cut a dollar there by making sure the weather stripping is ineffective. Cut multiple dollars by putting in a three speed automatic. Basically, Chrysler took a car that could have been a game changer and turned it into a low-price abomination that helped ruin Chrysler's reputation for the next two decades.

I can't help but wonder how different Chrysler's destiny would have been if management focused on their engineering strength instead of trying to compete on price. I always wondered if Bob Lutz was named CEO instead of President, what would have been different...

There are excellent books on this. If you have a kindle, one book worth getting is Ultimate Speed Secrets by Ross Bentley. He knows his shit, and this book will give you a boatload of information. Best $12 I ever spent. The general knowledge stuff will help you be a much better driver on the street as well, especially in adverse conditions.

https://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Speed-Secrets-Complete-High-Performance/dp/0760340501

If you enjoy reading about what it takes to build / engineer cars, I highly reccomed this book:

https://www.amazon.com/Car-American-Workplace-Mary-Walton/dp/0393318613

This book is also pretty good.

https://www.amazon.com/Critical-Path-Automobile-Reinventing-Corporation/dp/0316967084

Find the organizations that hold track days at your local tracks and sign up as a beginner with an instructor.

https://www.reddit.com/r/CarTrackDays/

Some reading: https://www.amazon.com/Going-Faster-Mastering-Race-Driving/dp/0837602262

Don't get too caught up in the didactics, as there is no replacement for seat time. But it's a good introduction so you have the right frame of mind and get the most out of your instructors.

There are no winners at track days, but there can definitely be losers.

Be safe, and have fun.

What has happened is that the minerals from the water have etched their way into the paint. The best way to remove that is with a very light polish that will clean the paint and completely even out the surface using a very light abraisive compound. Using a machine polisher is the most effective way of doing the job.

Here's the recommended tools, they aren't too expensive:

Porter Cable 7424xp polishing kit: https://www.autogeek.net/porter-cable-buffer-value-kit.html

Meguiar's m205 (their lightest polish): https://www.autogeek.net/meguiars-205-polish-8oz.html

Clay bar kit: https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G1016-Smooth-Surface-Clay/dp/B00063X7KG

Wax, Meguiar's Ultimate Wax, or other kind of sealant (perhaps Chemical Guy's Jet Seal). And a decent set of microfiber towels.

Wash the car, then use the clay bar to pick up the rest of the contaminants sticking to the paint. Then use the Porter Cable DA polisher. Depending on what condition the paint is determines which pad you need. The finishing pad might be enough to handle light contaminants, but if you need to step up to the cutting pad it is safe to do so. Same for the polishing compound, if m205 isn't enough, then step up the aggressiveness to Meguiar's Ultimate Compound, which is more abraisive. Be aware, after the pad is wet and saturated with polish it won't do any more work, and you'll have to take time to clean the pad with a detergent and water, so its advisable to get a stack of Lake Country green pads for doing a large job.

Here's the polishing tutorial by Mike Phillips: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zUHRnHsSXZU

why do you need them all in one?

There's a Stanley jumpstarter/compressor, and here's an off brand (I think) fast charger.

Together they're $107, with free shipping if you have prime (it may also be free economy shipping too).

I have a large portable pack that charges pretty well but its pretty big

https://www.amazon.com/STANLEY-J5C09-Jump-Starter-Compressor/dp/B002X6VXL4/ref=zg_bs_318336011_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=E15ZRP18HQF033EHAJNX

I'd recommend Gummi Pflege Stift instead. There is no better rubber care product:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004B8GTQG/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Excellent book. I also recommend this one by Bob Lutz

Do a top-side oil change.

All you need is this $80 manual pump from Amazon, a new oil filter for you car, and the tool to open the oil filter housing (which depends on your car).

This is safer and much easier than going under the car. Plus you don't risk stripping your oil pan.

This won't work if your car doesn't have a dipstick (like some BMWs)

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-J5C09-Starter-Built-Compressor/dp/B002X6VXL4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416412116&sr=8-1&keywords=air+pump+jump+box

I have it, I love it, it works solid.

I bought this for my Honda Accord:

http://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS32-Universal-Integration-Smartphones/dp/B004613FCE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426779745&sr=8-1&keywords=isimple+tranzit

It works very well, in my opinion. It's an FM modulated aux input, but it's all hardwired so even though it's technically using radio and transmit it doesn't sound like it. Plus you have multiple mounting options. You can either use their bracket/enclosure, or you can drill holes and mount them wherever you want to make a custom look. Install was very easy, the hardest part I had was trying to figure out which wire to use as a power source. It also gives you a USB plug to plug your device into for charging.

Black Box B40 A118 Stealth Dashboard Dash Cam - Covert Versatile Mini Video Camera - 170° Super Wide Angle 6G Lens - 140°F Heat Resistant - Full HD 1080P Car DVR with G-Sensor WDR Night Vision Motion Detection - NT96650 + AR0330 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NG84AT0/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_OLsHwbDVYGH7K

I installed one of these and it works great for me. It basically plugs inline into the antenna and broadcasts directly to the antenna. Then you tube your radio to that station. I've never had a problem with it. Plus it adds a charging port in the car.

A local Asian auto accessory store. It's available online as well

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00150T13G/ref=twister_B01EZ7BS0Y?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Right now, I'm using a white musk scented air freshener. https://amzn.com/B0047Z9FWI

Any brand/shape will smell pretty much the same.

I got this one and it works perfectly with torque pro

Topsider is made in USA I think. I have one, works great:

https://www.amazon.com/America-5060-Topsider-Multi-Purpose-Removing/dp/B001445IZ8/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

I wired this into my last Crown Vic. It worked well and it allowed me to replace the "Airbag off" light in front of the passenger into a USB port for charging. I didn't end up using their mounting plate, instead opting to dremel a small hole for the switch and another for the port into the trim surrounding my trunk release button. It takes over a radio station, you flip the switch to block out other radio signal and it's nice and clear.

rhino ramps go on sale pretty often if you look out for them, edit cheapest right now is $39 for 12,000 lbs https://www.walmart.com/ip/RhinoGear-11909ABMI-RhinoRamps-Vehicle-Ramp-Pair-12-000lb-GVW-Capacity/19526658 or https://www.amazon.com/RhinoGear-11909ABMI-RhinoRamps-Vehicle-Ramp/dp/B0117EETEK/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=race+ramps&qid=1570553293&sr=8-6

https://www.amazon.com/Discount-Ramps-6009-V2-Profile-Plastic/dp/B00UHLPES0/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=race+ramps&qid=1570553293&sr=8-11 only 4,400 lbs low profile

Besides my Valentine 1 radar detector, the Scosche MagicMount for my phone is up there to be my favorite.

If you want to bring any electronics, get a reasonable inverter. Something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/outlets-inverter-adapter-notebook-MRI3011BU/dp/B004MDXS0U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406487845&sr=8-1&keywords=inverter

Lets you charge your laptop while your car's on. Also, it has usb charging ports so you don't need need other adapters.

I'm currently debating between an iOttie and this magnetic mount: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I608BJ8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

I've heard iOttie's suction is really dang good and hard to pull off even if you wanted to take it off. But magnets are cool..

Magnetic phone mount like this or something similar based on the dash design.

Try something that's made to be used on paint, like Stoner Tarminator, or a clay bar kit before you go to gasoline. Start gentle, use the harsh stuff only as a last resort.

Read Ultimate Speed Secrets

https://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Speed-Secrets-Complete-High-Performance/dp/0760340501

Understand the concept of the traction circle.
Learn how your vehicle behaves, as another poster suggested, utilize an empty parking lot in the rain or the snow.
Smooth is fast, don't be a ham fisted dolt.
Driving is like a dance, use your current maneuver to set up your next.

Never push your car on public roads. Keep it on the track, or where you can't hurt someone else.

This is the one I have, Bestek 300W Power Inverter, handles a MacBook Pro and charging a phone and Ipad just fine.

You want more? You want Going Faster. I've spent a few weekends at the track, but this book still taught me a lot. Going Faster! Mastering the Art of Race Driving https://www.amazon.com/dp/0837602262/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_cV2AwbH2J2389

I am very OCD about my car and its paint. I also live in an apartment complex with no hose, no covered parking and lots of shitty parkers. I recommend hitting up r/autodetailing and checking out their wiki.

​

As for my own cirumstances, I don't have a clear bra or ceramic coats as I prioritize paying my student loans to hundred to thousands of dollards of paint protection. However, I clean my car using AMMO Frothe, and do paint correction every so often as needed with a DA, Maguiars 205 and 105, and some Chemical Guys orange and white pads. I used Wolfgang Gloss 3.0 sealant on my car before winter and every month during the warmer months. If the car needs it, I'll do a gentle clay application before sealing.

​

Edit: This is the DA I use, but I recommend getting a separate velcro backing plate to mount reusable pads. Full disclosure, my gf works for the corporate parent company of Porter-Cable, and I got the thing dirt cheap.

These ones get under my corvette without even touching the front spoiler. They are lower profile than they look and unless you are sitting on bumpstops you these should work. If you are dropped super low I don't have a solution.

http://www.amazon.com/Pair-Plastic-400lb-capacity-Ramps/dp/B00UHLPES0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453793811&sr=8-1&keywords=low+profile+ramps

Hee you go: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004B8GTQG/

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G1016-Smooth-Surface-Clay/dp/B00063X7KG?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

Car: A Drama of the American Workplace

http://www.amazon.com/Car-American-Workplace-Mary-Walton/dp/0393318613/ref=sr_1_2?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1406060725&sr=1-2&keywords=car+taurus

Shift: Inside Nissan's Historic Revival

http://www.amazon.com/Shift-Inside-Nissans-Historic-Revival/dp/0385512910/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1406060790&sr=1-1&keywords=shift+carlos+ghosn

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-A118-Stealth-Dashboard/dp/B00NG84AT0/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1466137423&sr=8-11&keywords=black+box+dash+cam

Video of a bucket hitting my car

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sMoVEAAJslI

http://www.amazon.com/Car-Guys-vs-Bean-Counters/dp/1591846226

one word:
Topsider

two bucket method and grit guard. Dont apply wax in direct sunlight

http://www.amazon.com/Grit-Guard-Insert-Red-Diameter/dp/B000N3W8J0/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1426439413&sr=1-1&keywords=grit+guard

Car: A Drama of the American Workplace

here are acouple ones to consider

Dual cameras

single camera

Not Cheap

http://www.amazon.com/America-5060-Topsider-Multi-Purpose-Removing/dp/B001445IZ8

I don't know why a shop with a pit would use one as it's slower than draining the oil and some factory manuals say not to do it (since it doesn't drain / alert you to anything sitting in the bottom of the pan, for one), but it is a real thing.

That's nothing more than an oil extractor. The VW TDI guys have been doing this for years-I use a Mityvac 7201. This figures, since Audi's are really just overpriced VW's anyway, but still there's nothing special about this. All you're doing is just sucking the oil out throught the dipstick-takes a little longer but you don't have to crawl underneath the car to drain it.

Apply Gymi Pfledge to the seals on the roof every 6 months to a year. There should also be drain holes in the A piller. Check that those are clear as well. There should also be a set in the roof compartment but I doubt those would clog easily.

For the roof it, since it is halting outright and not struggling, symptom of hydraulic issues ask me how I know, It almost certainly is a sensor that is failing. You may be able to get a special code reader (at least on the E46, the convertible module is not readable by standard OBDII readers) for the module to read which sensor is bad or you have to test each sensor on the car.

Low profile jack and these ramps.

You want this book. Be aware that the concepts are math heavy.

This book may also be helpful, I've never read that one so I can't say.

The guy who wrote the first book - Greg Banish - was a tuner for several manufacturers and taught a tuning class/seminar for a while.

Good reading: http://www.amazon.com/Going-Faster-Mastering-Race-Driving/dp/0837602262

My first was a lot of fun, but I took it very easy since I had OEM summer only tires and it was in the low 40's max in October... Keep an eye out for stupid or faster drivers and just let them pass in the passing zones. Not everyone on track actually belongs there...

Here is some advice, especially for an older car:
Brakes are the MOST important thing to check and there are plenty of incidents where people crash due to inadequate maintenance. fresh brake pads, inspect rotors for thickness, stress cracks if drilled. Inspect brake lines for nicks/age cracking, check brake fluid condition, reservoir leaks. Some places will turn you around right away if they see a wet reservoir. Flush and replace if it is bad or only DOT3. GOOD fresh oil and filter change, check wheel bearings for play (that will get you kicked out). Check tire condition, no dry rot. Clean and check alloy wheels for stress cracks. Remove all loose items you don't need at the track. Bring water, hat, long pants, long cotton shirt, helmet (SA2010+ probably), and of course a camera!

Well, your first mistake was waiting a full day to vacuum it... You honestly couldn't have made a bigger mistake then that. At least it was soup and not coffee. Did it spill on the actual carpet or on the floor mat and some on the carpet? I would try one of these, they can over power anything from marijuana smoke to dead bodies to soup baking in the hot sun:

http://www.amazon.com/Air-Spencer-CS-X3-Freshener-Squash/dp/B00150T13G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1342564029&sr=8-2&keywords=air+spencer

Otherwise, continue trying some carpet cleaners or perhaps buy some odor eliminator at a department store.