(Part 3) Top products from r/cosplayprops

Great start man!

Symmetry: Make patterns. Go grab some cardstock to do it with, it will hold up better than regular printer paper. Assuming you cut these out of craft foam, just draw a pattern that looks good, cut it out, and see how it fits. Once you have something you like, you can take that newly cut out piece of foam and lay it BACK onto cardstock and redraw it to get it just perfect. Then, when transferring it to another side, just flip it upside down. Also, make sure all your edges are glued down nicely.

Painting: Something that a lot of people don't take into account is priming their props before painting. A primer is something that allows paint to bind to the object a bit better, and gives a nice layer that wont have things showing through. I like to use Bullseye 1-2-3 and just brush it on, but it does have a spraycan option. Prime, Sand with 200~ grit, prime again, sand with 350~ grit, wipe with a damp paper towel, let dry for maybe an hour or so, then paint for best results. Also, 3-5 light layers > 1-2 heavy layers of paint. Also, if you want very customized colors and are willing to brush it on/airbrush, then you can go to the Paint section at Home Depot, find a color you want, and ask for a sample can of paint in that exact color. It's wonderful for small projects!

Here's some examples of my processes for crafting/painting
https://imgur.com/a/XkQBp

https://imgur.com/a/xcZEU

https://imgur.com/a/VCmsQ

If you have any questions, feel free to ask!

Liquitex makes a great starter pack that will allow you to experiment on your first small projects.
Liquitex BASICS Acrylic Paint Tube 48-Piece Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00251I66C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Dvw.Bb1B64GMK

I always try to have matte black, matte white, clear matte and clear gloss rattle cans on hand as well.

Thanks! Yes, I have already purchased and used these boots. I recently used them for my Star Wars Jedi Knight costume, they work and fit great! (They were cheaper when I bought them, like 60 bucks not 90!)

Paper mache definitely won't be heavy. You can buy/make paper mache clay that is probably perfect for making bones out of.

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Here's how you make it: https://www.ultimatepapermache.com/paper-mache-clay
Here's how you buy it: https://www.amazon.com/ACTIVA-CelluClay-Instant-Papier-Mache/dp/B001144SDE
I haven't used the clay before but I would if I was going to make some fake bones. I'd probably add some wires or fibre on the inside to give it some tensile strength.


In the past I've also made bones out of Sculpy with pretty good results.

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I also have 3d-printed a bird-skull before and it looked good after I did some heat-treatments to remove the ridges from 3d-printing.

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Another option is to just buy a bag-o-fake bones https://www.amazon.com/Fun-Express-Bag-Skeleton-Bones/dp/B000VGOB8A

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One thing I would say is - you should make all your bones out of the same thing. Don't mix real bones with fake bones - the fake bones might look passable by themselves but they'll look like shit next to real bones - you'll clearly be able to tell the difference

If you're not looking to build your own hat, you could look at Smiffy's Wandering Gunman hat.

I've used that hat for costumes before, and I have a 61cm / 24" (ish) noggin. It's probably going to be a little tight, but the interior of the hat has an elastic band all the way around that I thought made it more comfortable to wear.

Get yourself some glazing and spot putty to fill any small to medium glue lines. A tube of the stuff will last a good long while, it’s cheap and fills small imperfections quickly, sands really easily and you can find it just about anywhere. I typically get mine from Walmart in the auto section near the bondo or at just about any auto parts store for around $10 US.


https://www.amazon.com/Bondo-801-Professional-Glazing-Putty/dp/B004BYKICG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=glazing+putty&qid=1573106939&sprefix=glaz&sr=8-3

To add to the iron powder idea, there are actually metalized paints that are basically iron powder in an acrylic binder that you can brush onto parts and then weather with actual rusting solutions. Might consider spraying the piece first with a clear adhesion promoter. One thing to be aware of is that the rust can continue for aaaages, so once you've got it it to a point where you're happy with the look you may want to put some kind of sealer over the thing to lock it in.

Amazon?
Something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/CAP-Barbell-Puzzle-Mat-piece/dp/B0041FQZMW/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_bs_img_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZW8R2Y7QHZMZ39GS5Y45

Or

https://www.amazon.ca/Cap-Barbell-Equipment-12-Piece-Puzzle/dp/B004X165F6/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_lp_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZW8R2Y7QHZMZ39GS5Y45

There's these two on Amazon; they probably can't do video but perhaps a fast enough photo sequence would do?

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https://www.amazon.com/Sunpak-Pocket-Digital-Photo-Frame/dp/B001FJQM9S

https://www.amazon.com/Brookstone-Life-Digital-Picture-Frame/dp/B00M52NSFK

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There are some seven inch ones that do video.

Or something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Cywulin-Handheld-Supports-Multiple-Birthday/dp/B07MKGZQ7H

https://www.amazon.com/MonkeyJack-Screen-Digital-Music-Player/dp/B077Q5CLBS

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> How did you attach the straps to the arms and legs pieces?

I used Nylon 3/4" Straps Hot glued with Contoured plastic buckles

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001QVVZM4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003R2BDY0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They are great if you are just wearing it for show.. However they are a bit problematic when there is stage combat as the hot glue has come undone twice and had to be reglued.. Still trying to figure out if I just need more glue or what lol

They look like this

I got mine at home depot for 2.50 each. They have a magnet inside the metal so one side is magnetic but the other isn't. I'm gluing one inside a button cover for the shoulder clasps for my cape. The 2 clasps should hold the cape on by themselves actually.

Here's an amazon link

https://www.amazon.com/CMS-Magnetics-Pulling-RB50-Magnets/dp/B000WMQFQE/ref=sr_1_26?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540851817&sr=1-26&keywords=magnet

I would think that unless you're talking about a very small (like jewelry sized) piece, nail polish would be more expensive than something like this, since it would require more than one bottle.

HeatnBond UltraHold Iron-On Adhesive, 17 Inches x 1 Yard https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Y0083K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6vHYDbVRC12HC

Here is the link for the type I prefer. You can buy a roll if the dimensions need to be larger as well.

http://www.amazon.com/Builder-Liquid-Latex-Rubber-473ml/dp/B001E1XBLO lots of people use this product as one of the cheaper mold making. are you casting in resin?

i'm using a sponge and mask

https://www.amazon.ca/3M-Pro-Grade-Precision-2-5-Inchx4-5-Inchx1-Inch/dp/B00OB250I0/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=sanding+sponge&qid=1566286096&s=gateway&sr=8-17

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000UM13RW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Sorry https://www.amazon.com/Xacto-X75300-Precision-Razor-Saw/dp/B00004Z2U4

Dremel is just a brand name that became so common that it's synonymous with the generic term "rotary tool." If someone says "Dremel" they may or may not actually mean a Dremel brand rotary tool. Like Q-tips or Frisbees or Zeppelins.

Dremel makes very good tools, but my rotary tool is a Black & Decker. The B&D is ridiculously over-powered and can be used as a drill and even a jigsaw at need, but it's also heavy and cumbersome. Some people even use dog nail grinders if they don't need a lot of power, say if you're only cutting and filing foam.