(Part 2) Top products from r/crtgaming

Congrats! You're gonna find the built in speaker is horrendous (mono only). I just used some 'Airmiles' and ordered the Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 speakers. They are hooked up now and the sound coupled with the image on the L5 is glorious!

As for consoles/games, a new world has just opened up now with my PVM! The SNES is definitely one of my favs so with a monitor like this I HAD to find a '1CHIP' version and finally scored one locally on Kijiji just last week. 1CHIPS are now getting pricey on eBay but the seller didn't know what they had so I got my 1CHIP Snes for $40CAD! Either a 1CHIP or a Snes Mini is a must have on this kind of PVM.

I'm also really enjoying the Sega Saturn and the PS1 all over again. I'm all setup with RGB SCART. I've been getting my cables from both 'retrogamingcables' in the UK and a polish modder with a good rep on eBay. The guys in the UK are really great to deal with but I gotta say, I've been finding the quality of the cables from the polish eBayer to be of better quality and less audio 'noise'.

As for my SCART switcher I went with one of these (https://www.amazon.ca/Hama-Scart-Video-Selector-Console/dp/B00006JAUZ/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1498984493&sr=8-4-fkmr0&keywords=hama+scart+switch)

The audio break out on it is great for sending your Stereo sound from the console to whatever you end up hooking up to your setup (computer speakers like me, or a receiver). It's pretty limited for amount of connections and I've already exceeded it so I might be in the market for one of these now: http://lotharek.pl/product.php?pid=197

My next goal now is to find an NES Top loader version and get it RGB modded. As for my N64, not even sure I want to go there as it's probably one of the worst looking consoles for image quality.

One last thing, check out the YouTube vids by the guys in 'mylifeingaming'. A bit dorky but super useful information about getting the best out of your old consoles. Six months ago I didn't even know what RGB was. Now i've been severely bitten by the Retro Gaming movement and can't stop. I'm in my mid 30's and video games were huge in my younger life. I've always been a 'techy' so it's that side of me that garnishes satisfaction from the hunt of getting the absolute most out of these old machines with RGB, SCART, PVM's etc etc. But it's the games that I played 20+ years ago that I am enjoying so much again. Brings back so so many fond memories (going to our friends house over lunch for 4 vs action of 'Goldeneye' on his big screen, or just the long hours of solo play logged on memorable games like Zelda, Dragon Warrior and Xcom). Simply put, it's just so much fun again!

http://imgur.com/a/Ck9wp

there are about 5-6 other components that I could still replace in the horizontal linearity circuit and I will probably do this. I do think it will solve the issue but I will likely try because of how much effort and money I have invested into this set. I love the set other than the geometry problems and the geometry issue isn't really that noticeable in 3D games. I don't notice it at all when playing Super Mario 64 and N64 looks great on the JVC D201 set. Also, keep in mind that when you are dealing with geometry issues, you only need to focus on the horizontal and vertical linearity circuits which contain 20-30 aluminum electrolytic capacitors combined. Replacing capacitors isn't hard at all with the right tools. I did make sure to watch a ton of videos on how to solder and desolder and I bought my tools based on recommendations in Youtube videos and on several electronics forums.
 
I use this soldering iron and it works great, https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=hakko+soldering+iron&qid=1556333443&s=gateway&sr=8-3
 
I use this solder sucker and it is also great. You just have to make sure to push out the old solder with the pump after every 1-2 connections, https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-SS-02-Solder-Sucker/dp/B002MJMXD4/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=engineer+solder+sucker&qid=1556333566&s=gateway&sr=8-3
 
I recommend have a desoldering wick as backup as well. Use a no-clean solder wick of 2.0mm for general desoldering. As far as flux, flux paste is easier to use as it doesn't drip. The AMTECH NC-559-V2-TF no-clean tacky solder flux is good. Any no clean liquid flux from Kester or MG Chemicals will work fine as well. Definitely get some wire cutters for cutting solder and cutting component leads.
 
I use this solder (I recommend lead solder with a rosin core and also no clean) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJOU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
Any time you work on a CRT, you need to discharge the anode cap. This is very easy to do with the proper tools. For example, you could use a flat head screwdriver and an alligator clip wire to do this. You connect one end to the screw driver, the other end to a ground point on the CRT chassis (i.e. the metal frame around the CRT), slide the screwdriver under the rubber anode cap with the CRT unplugged until you hit the metal connector in the metal. Rub the screwdriver on this metal connector for about 5 seconds and it will be discharged. Retrotech on Youtube has a video on how to do this. I wouldn't say you need $80 electrical gloves to do this but at least wear a rubber or leather glove or both and only use one hand. Retrotech actually has quite a few videos on how to work on CRTs.
 
Overall, doing basic things like replacing capacitors in CRTs isn't that hard, you just have to spend the time to educate yourself, be patient and it will click. If you have any questions, just ask me or anyone else on here. If you ever work on any power circuit capacitors, make sure to discharge them with a high wattage and ohm rated resistor but using insulated pliers to hold the resistor legs to the capacitor legs for about 5 seconds to discharge the cap before you remove it.

Just like with TV's, there are higher grades of computer monitors as well. Look for "graphics design" monitors. Some of these monitors will actually have BNC inputs as they are designed for industry use but do not be fooled, These monitors do NOT accept 15khz rgb ( aka 240p)

I have an "NEC MultiSync FP2141sb" which I love. It has dual inputs, full geometry controls, a "super bright" function I really enjoy and a built in usb hub that I use to power my component - vga adapter.

I belive this Sony FW900 is the holy grail of vga crt monitors.

edit: I grabbed a this Wii VGA cable and gutted the chip. I made my own little box with component inputs and VGA out. The chip they used is highly regarded and does a straight 1:1 conversion of component-VGA @ 480p and 720p.

https://www.amazon.ca/Hyperkin-813048010715-PS3-Wii-Cable/dp/B003YDJ0F6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486320180&sr=8-1&keywords=wii+vga+cable

There's a S-Video input right on the back of that monitor. One side plugs directly into your console, the other into the monitor itself - super simple:

PS1/PS2/PS3 (official Sony brand and excellent quality, FYI)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N5JS5A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

SNES:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LE3EAIK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For NES, you'll also want to get a pack of these BNC to RCA connectors to use a regular RCA Composite cable off your NES: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005B4O4GG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I should add that I forgot to mention that Sega Genesis needs to be modded for S-Video - if your friend can help you mod the monitor for RGB it'll be a breeze for him (it's soldering like 5 single wires and a couple resistors - pretty darn easy). ---OR at that point, if you are actually modding the monitor for RGB, you'll probably forget about the S-Video and just use a regular SCART RGB cable or whatnot.

Also, if it makes your choice easier, S-Video really is excellent quality. You really have to see both side-by-side to notice any difference compared to RGB (especially if you're still new to all this - it's really just the finer smaller differences you can notice between the two connection types).

Head here: http://geedorah.com/eiusdemmodi/forum/viewtopic.php?id=295
and get an AMD card that's in the supported cards list. Obviously the newer ones will have more power, but I've read roughly HD 5000 series and up is generally good. Also use this link to grab crt emudriver.

Make sure you have a DVI-I to VGA adapter, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-DVI-Cable-Adapter-DVIVGAMF/dp/B000067SOH

Next, get a VGA to 5BNC connector. Something like this, although https://www.amazon.com/Coax-HD15-RGBHV-Monitor-Cable/dp/B0033AF5Y0, although shop around if you want one with higher user reviews, that one has about 3 stars for some reason.

You can roughly follow this guide: http://geedorah.com/eiusdemmodi/forum/viewtopic.php?pid=1052#p1052

Although note that you won't have to disconnect your LCD display/main display while you install CRT emudriver. That's how I did it. I still have my main monitor connected and the crt emudriver monitor is a second monitor.

I have a Toshiba MD20F52 that I picked up at Goodwill a while back. Need to do a few color adjustments before choosing to go further, but had a question for the future of the set. Currently, I only really use my SNES (and very rarely N64 and GC), with S-Video going into a splitter (https://www.amazon.com/RadioShack-4-Output-Component-Distribution-Amplifier/dp/B010EIK6K6), with composite out to the TV and S-Video out going to a video capture device (this looks better than just composite from the console to the TV). Would it be worth trying to add S-Video to the set, and if so, what would that process look like? I haven't found a lot of information on this set online. Thanks!

E: Fixed link

I have 2 of the Nintendo to scart cables off amazon for like 6/7 dollars and they're shielded well. No buzz on the audio, and I'm still amazed everytime I see the rgb out of a snes mini. my model 1 died so I upgraded and the image is substantially sharper and more vibrant with the mini. Also if you know how to solder you can find the rgb amp and board for like 5 dollars. Seriously it cost me 10 bucks to rgb mod my n64 and snes mini. Knowing how to solder is awesome mannn

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KZLEJEW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1474256838&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=snes+scart&dpPl=1&dpID=41d51fqdcOL&ref=plSrch

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5pcs-SOIC-8-to-DIP-8-Narrow-PCB-SMD-Adapter-to-DIP-/201415142959?hash=item2ee5472e2f:g:iTIAAOSw7PBToQmp

http://www.ebay.com/sch/items/?_nkw=THS7314DR&_sacat=&_ex_kw=&_mPrRngCbx=1&_udlo=&_udhi=&_sop=12&_fpos=&_fspt=1&_sadis=&LH_CAds=&rmvSB=true

or this, a slightly easier install

http://store.retrofixes.com/collections/upgrade-diy-kits/products/snes-jr-n64-rgb-upgrade-kit?rfsn=255623.6664d&variant=10333182215

Well, if it already has an HD-SDI input (which I believe it does), then you should get this converter! It works wonders. Just make sure to get an SDI cable that supports HD-SDI as well.

Also, if that JVC needs an analog input card, go to linuxbot3000's eBay store! He makes input cards for these and they work great.

Yeah for sure! for RGB via SCART connections, I'm using a Hydra 2 that goes to the 1st input on the PVM. For component I'm using x2 CE Labs SW204HD component switches, one chained into the other, the 2nd one outputs to a component to VGA box (Monoprice 107113 Component YpbPr to VGA Converter), which runs into an Extron Emotia, which goes to the 2nd RGB input on the pvm. the monoprice box also has a 2nd VGA input, which I run my HP win 98 PC into, has a button that changes inputs which sends a 480 signal to the emotia which makes it compatible with the PVM. if anyone has any tiny bit of desire to do something stupid like I've done, im glad to go into detail with you any time.

These are the sort of cables I was talking about it:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015MISAG

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003YDJ0F6/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JOBW12K

Just direct from the console to the monitor, nothing between.

They aren't of the highest quality, but are dead simple and cheap.

A dedicated transcoder as described by /u/syboxez would be better solution, especially if you think you'll want to possibly use other 480p+ Component sources on the monitor, but if you're just looking to use the Wii on it, the cable -should- be good enough for your purposes.

Not capable of hitting quite as high of resolution as the Garo, but I can personally recommend the Key Digital transcoders as being quality: For your situation specifically, the KD-CTCA line, for Component to RGB:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/282489751132

http://www.ebay.com/itm/142394232769

No TV is going to have more than one RF port. You can either daisy-chain the RF adapters for the consoles (I'd try this, and stick with it as long as the image doesn't look any worse), or you can get an RF switch. I've only ever seen 2-port RF switches. https://www.amazon.com/RCA-VH71-B-Slide-Switch/dp/B00009W3F2/

For composite, some TVs will have more than one, but an easier solution is to just get a composite switch box. These are incredibly common, and can probably be found at a local store. You can get them in anywhere from 2-5 inputs pretty cheap. Here's a 3-input one: https://www.amazon.com/Fosmon-Technology-Selector-Splitter-Connecting/dp/B00HNCPR92/

As for PVMs, they do not have TV tuners in them, and therefore do not take an RF input. You can connect any standard VCR, however, and this will enable you to input RF into the VCR and output this signal to the PVM as composite video.

If you're only looking for 3 switches this is your go to: Hama Scart Video Selector Console with 3 Scart In 1 Scart Out Black [42945] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006JAUZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_x.JYBbC6Y7DR0

Like someone said you'll get voltage bleed otherwise.
If that had two outputs I'd already own it, it is very popular and a great get for the money if you don't have that many inputs.

For 480i there are lots of downscalers you could use, old pro stuff like the Extron VSC series, most of which can do RGB formats, can also use cheapo HDMI to component up/downscaler boxes like https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Premium-Quality-Component-Converter/dp/B017LVMAWG

For 240p things get a lot trickier. Can sort of fake it by 480i -> 240p through some Extron RGB interface boxes, there are some fancy pro downscalers like a Corio2 that can do it directly with some programming, those are pretty expensive though.


Ideal MAME machine would be a PC that you can run CRT Emudriver on to get perfect resolution / refresh rates for any emulated system, arcade stuff often uses weird stuff that's not the usual 240p/288p.

I got these from Amazon and they seem to work great. I have them hooked up to a CRT but they should be great for an HD tv

These are the cables in use, and yes, there are probably a couple of weak links in here:

Xbox 360: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-6FT-Component-Cable-Xbox-360/dp/B004C4U1VI/

Wii: Not this exact cable but something similar, 3rd party cable purchased at GameStop long ago - https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Component-Wii-Playstation-3-2/dp/B003SVVHIW/

Wii U: https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-6-Feet-Audio-Video-Component/dp/B003L14Y9I/

PS3: https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Gold-Plated-Component-HD-AV-Cable-for-Sony-PS2-or-PS3-Retail-Pack/191850627294

Gamecube: Offical Nintendo GC cable

Daisy chain link: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Component-Video-Cable-Audio/dp/B01D5H8C4K/

gcompsw to BVM: unknown 3rd party component cable, have had a long time

The "noise" is visible regardless of which source is in use.
Having now typed all that out - would it be logical to first try replacing that unknown component cable feeding to the BVM with another Amazon Basics component cable (I have a spare)? Or are those trash?

There is a s video cable for the ps1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000N5JS5A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487642704&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ps3+s+video&dpPl=1&dpID=413hPW-NdeL&ref=plSrch heres a link to a good high quality one it fits the ps1 ps2 and ps3 and here is a good quality snes n64 and gamecube s video cable https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LE3EAIK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487642829&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=snes+s+video&dpPl=1&dpID=41r4XvjGatL&ref=plSrch hope this helps

Well I use this converter (linked below). After a short review/study of that converter do you still think it’d be worth doing? If so I might give it a try. Also I can set the games resolution to divide evenly into 1080i. Wouldn’t that be easier?

Universal Premium Quality HDMI to Component Video Converter with RCA L/R & Optical Audio Outputs | Support 480i, 720P, 1080i & 1080P Video Output PAL & NTSC | Model: H2CS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LVMAWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qhAgDb0YBN1Z7

Yeah monoprice makes one, they’re a great company. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L16ZBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_

I don’t think there’s a console that does component natively that won’t also do s-video. Definitely do the upgrade though, there’s no reason to use composite on any common console except genesis and NES

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0026K2JM4/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1 this is the cable I ordered for mine. Works great!

I’ve had no issues with my BlackMagic HDMI to SDI converter. I’m currently running my PS3, Wii U, and Chromecast into an HDMI switcher with its output going into an HDMI splitter (also strips HDCP for the PS3). Then one of those HDMI outs into the SDI converter. That way I can have those consoles output to my main TV and my BVM through an SDI expansion card just fine! It seriously works perfectly.

Only around $60 on Amazon right now.


Blackmagic Design Micro Converter HDMI to SDI (with Power Supply) BMD-CONVCMIC/HS/WPSU https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EIOP0QC/

I use a Prepac Sonoma stand, it's built for a heavy CRT and is the perfect size for a 20" PVM: [Link](
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Prepac-Sonoma-Black-Storage-Entertainment-Center-BTV-3232/203055160?cm_mmc=Shopping|THD|DigitalDecor|google|D59+Furniture|_pkw__pmt__product_203055160&mid=sbZNWaojR|dc_mtid_8903yuu57254_pcrid_50929783182_pkw__pmt__product_203055160_slid_&gclid=CjwKCAjw9O3NBRB3EiwAK6wPT301j5c-O3gzMlCPuaxMVvB1JFbmxJRqUcsb81sD6osXfxeIGgvBhxoCvukQAvD_BwE)
 
Here's a similar, cheaper one without doors: Link

I’m using this one.

Universal Premium Quality HDMI to Component Video Converter with RCA L/R & Optical Audio Outputs | Support 480i, 720P, 1080i & 1080P Video Output PAL & NTSC | Model: H2CS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LVMAWG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_sczRDb8ZPRXFZ

I’ve only tested it with 16x9 with 1080p and 720p input and 1080i and 480i output. All at 60hz. It seems to work ok and I’ve only had it for a couple of weeks. I have had to power cycle it here and there because it doesn’t always work right. And I get a flicker super rare but no telling if it’s this thing or my tv.

Sorry, new to this but hope that helps.

Thanks for the reply!

Would this be the right cable for Wii S-Video? And this for Component?

If I go with component, I would also have to convert from BNC then I assume?

My 32" Sony is about 160 and this has been holding it just fine. I'm about 170lbs so I sat all my weight on it to test it out. The top is a solid piece of wood and not press-board.

https://www.amazon.com/Prepac-BTV-3224-Black-Corner-Stand/dp/B0018SOB6C/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=crt+tv+stand&qid=1571159705&sr=8-4

Yes those will work fine, but you can use a much cheaper tool for the screwdriver, they make little plastic ones called tweakers designed just for rotating small pots.

Something similar to this:
https://www.amazon.com/Potentiometer-Tools-Hardware-ADJUST-piece/dp/B00DWI1LUA/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1494247175&sr=8-3-fkmr0&keywords=plastic+potentiometer+screwdriver

I'd remove that stupid metal clip on it before use, but anything similar to that will be perfect.

Kinda expensive. But it could be good for a 27" setup with consoles below. Black Corner TV Stand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018SOB6C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5fIEDbDFE8NRK

There's two types of DVI connectors: DVI-D and DVI-I. Only DVI-I is capable of an analog signal, but it looks like your card has that connector (double check me on that). If so you just need a simple DVI-I to VGA adapter like this https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-DVI-Cable-Adapter-DVIVGAMF/dp/B000067SOH

Make sure it's DVI-I instead of DVI-D by looking at pics of the connectors online, they are slightly different. If its DVI-i there's no conversion necessary and no input lag introduced.

I've got 3 PVM and it's just a passthrough, the SCART cables for the consoles will have all the capacitors and resisters needed. none of mine need the sync cleaner when i connect them all to a Bandridge SCART switch. I only paid about $20 with another $15 to ship it from the UK.

the price is all wrong on this link, but that is the one.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bandridge-Performance-Automatic-Selector-Switching-x/dp/B0015YYN2Q

if you use a switch you'll only need the 1 SCART BNC breakout cable. the sync cleaner/stripper is not going to hurt it, so if you only need one get the sync stripper. or if you want to do a little DIY, get the one with out and you can always add it later.


http://www.mmmonkey.co.uk/composite-sync-stripper-lm1881/

Do you have that Wii hooked up via S-Video? If not, it would definitely be worth it.
https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Composite-Yellow-S-Video-Stereo/dp/B003L16ZBI/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=wii+s-video&qid=1570741633&sr=8-2

anything anti static should be good

https://www.amazon.com/Potentiometer-Tools-Hardware-ADJUST-piece/dp/B00DWI1LUA/

https://www.amazon.com/VISHAY-SPECTROL-008T000-ADJUSTMENT-TRIMMERS/dp/B00HKJ90V4/

https://www.amazon.com/Aven-13016-Piece-Anti-Static-Alignment/dp/B001Q4YGQS/

Yes.


Radioshack Distributor box


I do have a solution as I made in another comment but if I could get this working properly I'd just utilize it. I believe my PS2 slim (even though it's broke from the laser, it still outputs a signal) was working fine with the same s-video cable through the box, so maybe the PSOne is just producing an odd signal through the box? Either way, it's more of a technical mystery to me rather than a practical solution that I want to know.

I'm using this thing from Amazon. It feels exactly as cheap as it costs, but it does the job!

Bandridge might have you covered?

Blackmagic Micro Converter HDMI to SDI (with power supply) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EIOP0QC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rDuYDb07CD0KF

I am using an amplified splitter. Specifically, I am using this amp splitter:

RadioShack 1500320 1-Input/4-Output A/V Component Video Sound S-Video Distribution Amplifier Splitter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010EIK6K6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Y3XZDb1HMYPB4

Using solder wick on through-holes is terrible. I use this solder sucker. It's a bit on the pricey side, but the silicone rubber tip gives it surprising suction despite being small enough to operate one-handed. I used to use this, which is cheap but... cheap. It broke after a while. Worked well enough before then, though.

Would this cable do the trick?

https://www.amazon.com/Your-Cable-Store-DB9-Serial/dp/B0026K2JM4/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=9%2Bpin%2Bdsub%2Bcable&qid=1564063430&s=gateway&sr=8-4&th=1

I have some sort of serial port but I don't know if it's 9 pin. I need to check that.

i try record it but it does not show well on the camera but these are the cable i got for it :

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B0A3A0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

A switch should yield better picture quality than a simple parallel adaptor like that. When using such an adaptor all of the consoles have their AV output lines connected together so it relies on each console not interfering with the others when switched off, and even with that being the case it adds extra capacitance and inductance to each AV line just from the extra cable length which can also harm the picture and sound quality. Years ago I had a similar unit with only two connectors on it and was pretty disappointed then, I dread to think what it would look like with five devices connected!

I currently use one of these devices, which as far as I can tell is a cheap clone/knock-off of the well-regarded Hama AV-100S. I cannot fault the picture or sound quality and could not personally detect any signal degradation when compared to plugging a device in directly, and this extends to using it with a SCART to HDMI convertor box (which tends to make noise or other interference much more visible than a CRT). My only real complaint is that the RGB switch is labelled "OFF" for some reason. :)

No, unless you want to screw with adapters This is the correct cable.

Jeez I thought component was component. Maybe I have the wrong adaptor then, this is what I got.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00213KFHW/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_nH6LDbYTR9T66

I don´t know what hdmi to component converter you tried to use but most models wont do 240p, the one in the link below has been used succesfully by several people (the one with the legend "hd video converter", all the others using the same case are the same thing with different branding most likely) (https://www.amazon.com/-/es/Convertidor-Wenter-Componente-Soporta-Proyector/dp/B07RFFWJWL/ref=sr_1_6?__mk_es_US=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=17XTSOFJE42PC&keywords=hdmi+to+component+converter&qid=1574177868&sprefix=hdmi+to+compon%2Caps%2C184&sr=8-6). The typical vga-svideo/composite converter (https://www.amazon.com/-/es/Fosmon-Technology-Adaptador-hd1882-PC-Converter/dp/B009OMYHJU/ref=sr_1_3?__mk_es_US=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=vga+to+svideo&qid=1574178163&sr=8-3) uses software to detect and process image (stretching, flicker filter, position, color, etc), so it has noticeable lag, and it just doesn´t know what to do with 240p (it will show a ver small portion of the picture extremely zoomed in and the software controls don´t have enough capacity to fix it -it´s useless for other than taking 480p and 800x600, and 1024x768. Also, 240p games don´t work that great on 480i, they suffer flickering, the flickering filter of the unit can fix it, but then it will look blurry-).