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i've heard that coaching really helps you improve, but it sounds kind of like a book would be sufficient for your needs.

I have made great improvements using http://www.amazon.com/The-Time-Crunched-Cyclist-2nd-Ed/dp/193403083X

perfect for me because i don't have lots of time, and that book aims for about 7 hours a week max except for the endurance mtb program. and, this book has a cyclocross specific workout plan. i have gone from finishing bottom 25% of 4/5 to being competitive 3/4. i have also learned what my strengths and weaknesses are and am focusing on those before getting back into mtb season.

Copy pasta of a comment from another thread about intervals:

> If you're really interested in doing intervals check out the Time Crunched Cyclist. It's meant to get you race ready only using different types of intervals three times a week. There are plans for newbies and advanced riders, as well as for specific types of riding like long distance or for cross.

> I've been riding for three years and just did the beginner block over the winter and spring. I definitely got faster from it...which is expected as I've never followed a strict plan before.

I'd really recommend starting with the beginner plan and swap in at least 30 mins of dedicated skills work on the Sunday easy miles ride. Most peoplebeginners don't/haven't put a lot of time in practicing barriers, dismounts, and run ups and you can really put the hurt on them if you're even halfway decent.

As I said above, I started with the beginner block and I felt like I started noticing results at about 7 to 8 weeks in to the plan...which fits with the planned 'peak' the training block is supposed to provide. So figure out what your important races might be and plan to start training 8 weeks out.

Races count as workouts, just make sure you're getting enough saddle time though. Eg, if your race is 30 mins and the day calls for 90 mins total, make sure you're getting that extra 60 between warmups, pre-riding, etc...go for a short ride when you get home if you have to.

What age are you? Officially masters start at 30 or 31, I forget. If you're going to a bigger race with a masters category you're going to get destroyed. You'll find lots of racers that used to be hard core Cat1s in there who are just looking for a win, along with a few people in the same situation you're in. I'd really recommend staying in the beginner category this season. If you haven't made the podium in the beginner category you're in no way ready for the masters. (Even if you had, I still wouldn't suggest it)

I second the suggestion for cr-720s. decent stopping power for the price, great mud clearance, easy set up. I've had them on the nature boy i've raced for the past 3 years. And yes, change the pads. I use the Salmon Kool Stop pads and they work very well.

Nice find! I even raced one of these for a bit. It seems like it's been sitting for a while. I would replace:

• Tires: Get the biggest tire that'll fit.
  
• Brake Pads: This bike looks like it's been sitting. The rubber in the pads is toast. Get some Kool Stops
  
• Chain: Never trust an old one. KMC makes solid stuff.
  

>Brakes didn't do anything in the rain...

Get used to it haha. But seriously, cantilever's are known to be bad and worse when wet. I would recommend salmon kool-stop pads but that will only get you a bit better stopping. Look into mini v brakes for more stopping power.

The tire's look like tufo brand? The color shouldn't mean anything if that's the case. If you're commuting/pleasure riding/training you should be on clinchers (standard tires/not tubulars as it sounds like that's what you have) and have a tube/patch/tire lever/frame pump. I rode with just tubulars for a year or so, but I'm wiser now.

Just returned from morning ride and noted a few more things...

I did add also a mirror to handle bars. This one to be exact.

This head light lasts over 12 hours:

The tail light it came with -- blah -- have a more robust one.

Also it took a while to find the right spot for air pump. I am considering a bag eventually but for now this is the location that works best. Other locations obstructed loading it on the carrier. Or it simply falls off the clip it came with, so I use one of the removable zip ties to wrap around the pump itself for now. If it stays in this location, I will trim the zip-ties shorter.

These are the pedals the store (REI) had on this one. I wanted to invest more time on the bike before considering switching to clipless -- to sort of "earn" 'em.

This post morning run bike picture.

+1 to everything everyone else has been saying, and also something which I haven't seen mentioned yet:

Some people prefer gel pads in their gloves, other prefer the gel on the handlebars under the wraps, for example this.

Personally I have a JakeTheSnake which I ride with gel gloves, and a pure road bike (custom build) with gel on the bars. For long rides (100km+) I find the bar gel to be more comfortable and provide better numbness relief. I've done similar distances on the Jake, but my posture is a bit different on that and bar gel there does nothing for me.

So anyhoo just be aware of that option, some people find it helpful.

Hope you bought this bike! I got mine a few weeks ago and it's fantastic. Full 105 drivetrain/shifters for this price is a steal.

The carbon fork is full carbon, it doesn't stop at the steer tube. The bike is weight and feel competitive with my roommates Kona Jake the Snake (though does lack the internal cable routing and a few other fancy features there).

If you haven't bought yet, consider this http://www.amazon.com/Tektro-Front-Cable-Hanger-Black/dp/B006GHDRYC/ref=sr_1_4? brake hanger. You can get a bolt/washer @ Home Depot, I recommend a 1/2" by either 2.5 or 3.0 inches (just grab both, they're like $1). The one it comes with won't do well with mud.

i've shared this link a couple times. never used them myself but the reviews are positive drop bar ends

I'm about 190 lbs and keep my clinchers at 40 in the rear and 35 in the front for whatever I'm doing unless I'm hauling something heavy on my back. When I first started out, though, I would keep them around 55/45 and would still manage to pinch flat because bike handling. Carry a couple extra tubes and a pump with you until you get used to doing off road things on a road like bike - you'll only learn by doing.

These things are a lifesaver, by the way.

Here’s the book on Amazon:

The Time-Crunched Cyclist, 2nd Ed.: Fit, Fast, Powerful in 6 Hours a Week (The Time-Crunched Athlete) https://www.amazon.com/dp/193403083X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WtA6Bb2X4FP21

I called Cannondale tech support and they said you simply need to add a seat post collar rack mount to compliment the frame's rack mounts at the dropouts. 31.8mm diameter to match the seat post.

https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Alloy-Clamp-Mount-31-8mm/dp/B0014GGN0K/

If you live somewhere that's not too muddy, consider switching to V-brakes in the front. This is even more true if you're particularly tall and have a long headtube. These are cheap enough to give it a go.

I made the switch this year and wish I had done it the second I got my bike.

I used the Da Vinci bike hooks. they work pretty well.

They make them in both 9 and 10 speeds. With the XT 9/10 speed stuff you need specific derailleur for 9 or 10 speed for some reason.

The rear D for 9 speed is the M772 or M773. Also, the Deore SGS is a good choice, this is what came on my bike and it's the same derailleur, just a bit heavier.

The 10 speed rear is the M781

get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Chapin-20020-Fertilizer-Herbicides-Pesticides/dp/B000E2EZBO

much more gentle, plus you can use it anywhere

No worries - cycling is full of random terms that you have to get wrong a few times before you start to sound like a real cyclist!

As far as long-term plans - you can't go wrong with anything by Joe Friel

https://www.amazon.com/Cyclists-Training-Bible-Joe-Friel/dp/1934030201

And again, there's nothing wrong with an intense program this year so you can get some racing under your belt - just know the limitations of it. Also, since cross is so technical, a season of racing on a shortened training plan will probably do you wonders next year. That way you won't have any jitters and will know what you're in for.

Also, "Base Building for Cyclists" is very good as well:

https://www.amazon.com/Base-Building-Cyclists-Foundation-Performance/dp/193138293X

This fork mount solved all of my shudder issues. Unless you feel like throwing all sorts of money at the problem I'd suggest you try this first. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006GHDRYC/

Here’s the rack mount they recommended (and I bought):

Sunlite Alloy Seat Post Clamp with Rack Mount, 31.8mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014GGN0K/

They are $6.40 a set on Amazon. I am tempted to put these on my single speed.

I didn't realize this was a rhetorical question that you just wanted folks to agree with you on. If you're that worried - do it right and use a protractor.

http://bikedynamics.co.uk/guidelines.htm

https://www.amazon.com/12-PROTRACTOR-GONIOMETER-SET-AMS/dp/B000MZRQXC

Put your old shoes on measure the angles then put the new shoes on and make adjustments.

The couple I know of are the Avid Solid Sweep G3s and the Carver Mud Runner CX.

There's also the Hayes Mudcutters, which aren't entirely solid, but have much less cutout that most rotors, and are way cheaper than the prior two mentioned.

Here's one on Amazon.

Is this any good, besides the cassettes being swapped out? https://www.amazon.com/Mongoose-Elroy-Adventure-Wheel-Bicycle/dp/B06X195B5R

Take your car key (or clicker fob) off the ring, lock the doors. Place it in one of these (or similar). Lock it through your car door handle (or roof rack bar, etc.). That's what I do. Problem solved.

https://smile.amazon.com/Master-Lock-5400D-Set-Your-Own-Combination/dp/B0002YP1VC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1504104694&sr=8-3&keywords=key+lock+box

> https://www.amazon.com/Mongoose-Elroy-Adventure-Wheel-Bicycle/dp/B06X195B5R

I'd be wary of Mongoose. They were once a "real" bike brand but most of what they make these days is Wal-Mart crap. Read the reviews.