(Part 2) Top products from r/diypedals

The only kind of DSP I've ever looking into is the one linked below (Sharc DSP) which is from Analog Devices. I'm sure there's others but that seems to be the trend on which to use.

The really best starting point would be to read some shit about it before hand. I had a decent article with some sample code but I don't remember what I did with it.

http://www.amazon.com/DAFX-Digital-Udo-ouml-lzer/dp/0470665998/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405345129&sr=8-1&keywords=DAFX

This book has sample matlab code, but I expect this to be a better reference book than a learning book. I wish I could find that article but I know that Analog Devices' website has some better information.

Good luck on it, the stuff is definitely complex to understand. Probably way easier to just get one and start coding than it is to constantly read up on it.

I just went over to it and picked it up and was surprised by how light it is. I think the wider base gives it better stability than the old one I was using but the old one might actually be heavier. I just weighed them, the new one is 13.3 ounces, and the old is 12.2. So not much difference in weight, but the new one sits higher and has the wider base, that makes it more useful to me.

I just remembered this:
https://www.reddit.com/r/diypedals/comments/5fu93u/i_finally_bought_an_oscilloscope/

The helping hand in that picture might be worth pursuing. Whoever's desk this is has obviously spent a lot of time perfecting his workstation. I'd imagine he's gone through a few helping hands before settling on the one on his current desk.

I will say that this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UCODIA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

has been my single most useful DIY helper....

That should work, but it's awfully expensive. You don't have to buy Hakko brand, it just has to be the right diameter. I'm pretty sure you want T18 tips for your iron. I'm a Weller guy, but I get my tips from uxcell, and they've been rock solid at about $2/tip. Amazon lists the material, you really want the copper ones. The iron ones are electroplated, but tend to wear out after <100 hours of use and if you leave it on while you think, you'll come back to a totally corroded tip. I've not had that trouble with copper.


I'd go with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Bleiou-Replacement-Soldering-FX-888D-FX-8801/dp/B07GBVW695/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=T18+copper&qid=1565204293&s=gateway&sr=8-1


or this: https://www.amazon.com/ShineNow-Quality-Soldering-Replacement-FX-888D/dp/B07TY35M2M/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=T18+copper&qid=1565204516&s=gateway&sr=8-10 to find out which type of tip I like best if I were you

I can chime in here... I have done DIY silk screen enclosures in the past with pretty good results.

Personally I just used speedball acrylic from amazon and applied a good clear-coat over it once it dried.

Screen Print Example 1

Screen Print Example 2

The acrylic ink was pretty easy to apply, but I had issues with it smudging and not transferring properly. It dries well, but is slightly chalky and could flake off without a topcoat.

That being said, I would HIGHLY recommend looking into water-slide decals. I have found them to be much easier to apply and they have a much more professional look assuming you account for their limitations.

Water-slide Example Here

Maybe, maybe not. Get a solder sucker. Something like this:https://www.amazon.com/Elenco-060820-Solder-Sucker-desoldering/dp/B0002KRAAG?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0 Heat up the blobbers and suck them off and redo them.

Simplest way to solder is to touch the tip so it contacts the PCB connection and the component lead for a couple seconds and then lightly touch the tip of the spool of solder to that point, it will flow right on to both points, or touch the solder to the tip of the iron right above that point and the solder will flow down onto the connection, leave the tip there for a second or two and then remove it. It should cool and leave a shiny solder joint. If it's kind of murky grey like a lot of those on your PCB, the solder wasn't hot enough when you removed the heat.

Getting a tip that has a small point is super helpful. A decent soldering iron makes everything so much easier as well. https://gokimco.com/weller-wlc100-40-watt-hobbyist-solder-station.html?gdffi=a2b2595eeb2e44a8bc2e332d298712bc&gdfms=EE997BA12347416BA1AEAC65CC33CFA0&gclid=CNXf4euHiM0CFUpZhgodW2kIkg This is a good cheap one. The ones that are like 25 bucks from Radioshack are garbage.

http://runoffgroove.com/ has a lot of good pedal schematics and clips for how they sound. Lots of innovative ideas that might help put a schematic to a sound. Unfortunately it is missing a lot of circuit theory on how they work. Assuming that you are in high school I would start by learning op amps, diodes, BJTs, MOSFETs, and maybe JFETS.

This book should be able to tell you how all these work and you could probably find a PDF copy online, just be careful about that. It explains pretty much anything you might want to know about these, but it is a lot of theory if you do want to learn how these components work.

If you have questions you can always PM me and I'll do my best to answer!

If you don’t have one already, now is also a good time to invest in a helping hand. They’re invaluable. I use a little desktop clamp to hold the PCB I’m working on, and then another like this to hold parts / cables / etc. Makes awkward soldering situations like this significantly easier!

http://www.amazon.com/Kester-Rosin-Core-Solder-Spool/dp/B00068IJPO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1421246616&sr=8-1&keywords=kester+44+rosin+core+solder

I've been soldering for decades and I have never found a lead-bearing solder that worked better overall. I use 0.031" for through-hole work, 0.020" or even 0.015" for SMD and touch-up. The flux is fast-acting enough that I can use Weller 800F tips and a quick-in-quick-out soldering technique, completing the joint before the heat can spread far. In any case, you get best results when you touch the tip of the solder to the junction of iron and wire, aimed such that the flux spits straight into the joint as it boils.

add: Using 63/37 rather than 60/40, you minimize the paste period where the lead has chilled but the tin is molten, thus reducing the chances of a cold solder joint due to movement.
> The 63/37 is a eutectic alloy, which:
>
> 1. has the lowest melting point (183 °C or 361 °F) of all the tin/lead alloys; and
> 2. the melting point is truly a point — not a range.

-- http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Solder

Good background info: http://www.kester.com/knowledge-base/faq/

I had/have a early 80's PolyTone amp that would eat reverb tanks regularly, but it sounded sooooo good otherwise. To resolve my situation, I got one of these for reverb - Danelectro Spring King. Truth be told, there is a digital element to its design, but...

Electrosmash has some great analysis articles on some classic pedals. They get into different components and design choices in exacting detail. If you don't know anything at all about electronics, a lot of stuff will be a mysterious (what's an op amp??) until you read about a specific part (oh, it's a miniature integrated circuit with some transistors that lets you amplify a signal using a fixed gain set by some resistors). But seeing the parts in context will give you an idea what they're doing. A lot of electronics guides focus on on the abstract mathematical relationships between components, which are important but don't give you the "what's this do" information you might be looking for. Practical electronics for inventors is a good book that covers fundamentals with common examples.

There's the Brian Wampler book that people always talk about in this sub, I don't know if it's exactly what you're looking for, but you should check it out anyway, it's a great source.

lol yeah I watched it a quite a few times before I tried it too. this is the paper I used
https://www.amazon.com/Blinggasm-Waterslide-8-5X11-Inch-Inkjet-Printer/dp/B00ZLVF698/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1493911054&sr=8-2&keywords=waterslide%2Bdecal&th=1

If you really want to get into audio electronics design, I would pick up a book called Small Signal Audio Design. It's long, and it's technical. But it will be a wealth of information for a very long time. https://www.amazon.com/Small-Signal-Audio-Design-Douglas/dp/0415709733/

and maybe something like this may help? https://www.amazon.com/SE-Illuminated-Dual-Flip-Magnifier/dp/B003UCODIA/ref=sr_1_16?crid=14P7OOC4DPSD4&keywords=magnifier%2Bwith%2Blight&qid=1573913544&sprefix=magnifi%2Caps%2C156&sr=8-16&th=1

and i use this to hold components and board in place while soldering: https://www.amazon.com/June-Gold-Kneaded-Rubber-Erasers/dp/B074DC4F7G/ref=sr_1_12?crid=1QYF5TLM7IU2G&keywords=moldable+eraser&qid=1573913686&sprefix=moldable+%2Caps%2C158&sr=8-12

I've only used laser printed water slides, and they mostly work well. After I immerse them in water, they take 1-2 minutes before they get slidey enough to come entirely off the backing.

The paper I use: https://www.amazon.com/Blinggasm-Waterslide-8-5X11-Inch-Inkjet-Printer/dp/B00ZLVF698/ref=sr_1_1

I think it is this book Splunlen is refering to: https://www.amazon.com/How-Modify-Guitar-Pedals-how/dp/1434801063

Please note that there seems to be a new version out soon.

+1 for board-mounted pots, or board-mounted-something-that-also-attaches-to-the-enclosure.

But for stripboard builds I've been using a few little balls of this putty stuff on the back of the board, it works both to insulate and keep the board in place.

My recommendation: Rustoleum Triple Thick Glaze https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-264985-Specialty-Triple-12-Ounce/dp/B00D0293SA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1543344970&sr=8-1&keywords=rustoleum+triple+thick+glaze

only stuff i use now a days. Goes on thick and dries quick.

I seen this book recommended on Youtube by some EE guys I follow. I have not read it but was thinking about getting it.

​

Beginners Guide to Reading Schematics

I use these for laser jet. So far so good decal

Specifically, http://www.amazon.com/Art-Electronics-Paul-Horowitz/dp/0521809266/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453081730&sr=8-1&keywords=art+of+electronics

I don't care for rosin core, personally. It smells nice, but it burns, leaving scorched black particles on your joints, and it leaves an ugly (though protective) residue, which is tough to clean, especially if you leave it for a while.

I much prefer Kester No-Clean, which cleans up very easily with a drop or two of isopropanol.

This is what I use for all of my thru-hole stuff.

Use one of the tools that are used to cut bathroom tiles or use tin snips. People using razor blades for this are eventually going to have a bad time since they are not made for this work.

Edit: This is what I'm taking about.