Top products from r/diypedals

We found 71 product mentions on r/diypedals. We ranked the 239 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/diypedals:

u/SunTsu75 · 2 pointsr/diypedals

Seconded, also consider this kind of thing: https://www.amazon.com/Aven-17010-Adjustable-Circuit-Holder/dp/B00Q2TTQEE/ - it's invaluable for PCBs. Just populate from one side, add something to hold stuff in place (like gaffa tape, or bend one lead, or clip on a sheet of paper, etc), turn over the PCB and start soldering away. I wouldn't want to miss mine.

Any soldering iron 40+W where you can regulate the temperature should do, I own a nice station but when I don't feel like breaking it out because it'd take longer to set it up than to do the job I use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/ANBES-Soldering-Iron-Kit-Electronics/dp/B06XZ31W3M/ set to 350°C. Just make sure to clean and tin your tip regularly and it will do the trick just fine Oh, but ditch the solder and get a few spools of good rosin core solder of different gauges, it's not expensive but worth it. In my experience, the solder that comes with kits like that mostly works as a deterrent.

If you're not planning on buying all-included kits also get a few spools of stranded core wire of different colors. You could use solid core wires but those tend to break if they're getting bended from movement without showing it. With stranded core some strands may break but as others don't they'll continue to work. Invisibly broken wires (i.e.) inside the isolation) are a *beeeeep* to debug.

Also, a set of tweezers are great to have, especially the kind that holds stuff together per default, like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Curved-Tweezers-Cross-Jewelers-Soldering/dp/B000OVPG9A/ (only an example, I'd get a tweezers set that contains one like that).

In my experience a tool set like this one is great to have: https://www.amazon.com/Haobase-6Pieces-Double-sided-Soldering-Assist/dp/B01DLX6V3C/ - especially the bending tool is great to have, as it allows eg to bend the leads of a LED without running the risk of breaking the LED itself. It's also great in order to clean up mistakes, helps with desoldering and such

Speaking of desoldering: desoldering braid is a must. A desoldering pump can be useful, too. And yes, practice soldering and desoldering until you can do both without destroying anything.

If you're not going to buy pre-drilled enclosures then you very likely want a) a center punch and b) stepping drill bits. Those let you drill holes in all kinds of sizes without having to buy lots of drills.

Last but not least a wire cutter is a must

u/brent_tubbs · 1 pointr/diypedals

Given that this is your first build, I'm wondering whether maybe you're still getting the right tools?

I use this soldering iron from BYOC. It's cheaper than an equivalent Weller, but still works well for me. I previously had a Radio Shack one with a less finely-pointed tip, which was frustrating to use. I also use a circuit board holder from Amazon that makes it easy to put a component in on one side, bend the leads a little to hold it in place, then rotate the board to the other side so I can solder it. I place, solder, and clip the leads for one component at a time. I've tried following some YouTube videos that put in a bunch, tape them down, and then solder through the forest of exposed leads, but that ended up messier than I would have liked.

I'm not sure what you mean about soldering from both sides. Looking at the project doc, it seems to me like all the components (other than the switch and pots) go on the same side. Is it about placing components on one side and soldering on the other?

For an IC socket, I follow these steps:

  1. Make sure the PCB is secured in the holder, component side up.
  2. Place the socket in its holes.
  3. Rotate the PCB so that it's almost all the way on its side. The holder's grippy bits can swivel to make this easy. You want it rotated enough that you can get underneath with your soldering iron, but not so far that the socket tips or falls out of the board.
  4. Solder a pin at one of the corners of the socket (don't do them all, yet).
  5. If the socket lifted up while you were soldering it, then put down your solder and use that hand to gently push down on the socket while your other hand uses the soldering iron to reflow the joint from beneath the board. In the second while the solder is molten, the pressure on the socket will make it push down to lie flush against the PCB.
  6. Solder the opposite corner of the socket.
  7. With two opposite corners of the socket now secured, you can flip the board all the way upside down and have easy access to solder the rest of the pins, without fear of the socket shifting or falling out.

    Given that the Helios has board-mounted pots, you might also find the instructions below (from BYOC) helpful: https://imgur.com/a/6FLzV
u/LBriar · 2 pointsr/diypedals

It depends on the component. Resistors and caps usually either work or not, and even really cheap sets tend to be within rated tolerances. I just buy the cheapest sets of those that have the values I want.

Transistors and ICs will depend on what you're getting. Common and still produced values are cheap and easy to get. Again, just buy whatever's cheap and gets you what you need. Watch out for fakes or seconds when buying out-of-production parts like 308s or 3007s. Best to get those from reputable places (smallbear, Mammoth, etc), because they're expensive and it's easy to get burned. I'd really look at the values you're getting when ordering ICs and possibly transistors in bulk. Those parts are usually really specific to a build and buying a lot of values might leave you with a bunch of unused parts.

The Joe Knows sets are good, if a little expensive. They tend to be well sorted, which is nice, but not something I'm willing to pay more for. Like this set of resistors is going to be just as good and is significantly cheaper than the equivalent Joe Knows set. There's certainly nothing wrong with the Joe Knows stuff though - if it has the values you need at the right price, go for it.

You can also score some great bulk deals on ebay and alibaba, but you'll be stuck waiting for overseas shipping a lot of the time. I'd go Amazon for an initial order and then shop around when you refill.

u/MeNoAreNoNiceGuy · 1 pointr/diypedals

Wow, thanks fro the great answers /u/crb3 ! Really interesting stuff.

Number 3 I'm going to read through really slowly again to try to makes sure I get it all. Reverse protection diode makes sense. I think I can leave it out since I am using only 9v DC from the wall wart so it'd be hard to get it backwards like a battery. It seems like increasing the value of C3 would allow a larger reservoir of power and less sag?

One question, why does it matter it it is a 0.1 uF MLC cap vs some other type of capacitor, i.e., What desirable properties are exclusive to MLC?

This is exactly what I has hoping for. I'm slowly working through this book now to get a better understanding of this stuff, but practical explanations like the ones you provided are really interesting and provide an awesome supplement to what I have learned so far from the text book!

Next step is the breadboard to try some of this stuff out!

u/chinesefatwoman · 1 pointr/diypedals

I just went over to it and picked it up and was surprised by how light it is. I think the wider base gives it better stability than the old one I was using but the old one might actually be heavier. I just weighed them, the new one is 13.3 ounces, and the old is 12.2. So not much difference in weight, but the new one sits higher and has the wider base, that makes it more useful to me.

I just remembered this:
https://www.reddit.com/r/diypedals/comments/5fu93u/i_finally_bought_an_oscilloscope/

The helping hand in that picture might be worth pursuing. Whoever's desk this is has obviously spent a lot of time perfecting his workstation. I'd imagine he's gone through a few helping hands before settling on the one on his current desk.

I will say that this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UCODIA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

has been my single most useful DIY helper....

u/niandra3 · 4 pointsr/diypedals

I'm still pretty new to this myself, but like you I have some electronics experience in the past. I just got this Weller 40w iron station with a desolder braid/sucker and a solder tip cleaner. Oh and a more precise tip for the solder iron

I'm really happy with it all so far, and couln't imagine needing more for a while. A heat gun would be nice for de-soldering and reflowing premade boards (like modding Boss pedals), but that can also be done with a regular solder iron as far as I know. You can get the above for about $60 total, so it's a nice way to get your feet wet without a huge investment. Then you gotta add on components/enclosures/pots/switches etc. Maybe get a helping hands and/or circuit holder if you need

Oh and get a good multimeter. I went a step up from the $20 ones and got this one which I'm also really happy with.

u/shoryukencallme · 1 pointr/diypedals

That kit looks pretty good, though I haven't used it. From my own experience, I would recommend a couple of optional upgrades to be thrown in. First, a brass wire type soldering iron cleaner. The sponge on stations like these is fine, but it's much easier to clean with the brass type mid-project. There are cheaper versions available, but my experience is all with the Hakko. Second, I've never had luck with those wire cutters. I've had much more luck with strippers that give separate holes for each gauge. Here's a cheap one and here's the Hakko pair I have.

Like I said, these are optional as the kit comes with basic solutions for both of these tools, but maybe something to think about for the future.

u/rabbiabe · 2 pointsr/diypedals

I’m also new to the game and I’ve found tayda to be a much more accessible site than Mouser — I get overwhelmed by the apparently galactic selection and can’t figure out what to get.

Also u/preppyprepface had really important advice— don’t skimp on your stock. I had to go back to tayda almost immediately and order a bunch more stuff because I initially ordered exactly what I needed for a specific PCB and then got really excited about other potential projects, and the shipping takes a while (weirdly, at a certain point if you order enough it comes DHL from Thailand which for some reason is faster than however they ship from Colorado. Who understands these things?). The most important thing to remember is that things will get screwed up — last week I ruined a 3PDT and shorted an LED and it was great to just reach into the bin for another one and keep chugging. Resistors in particular are so cheap that you can’t even buy less than 10 at a time (10 resistors = $0.12 so it makes sense)

You’ll also want a way to keep things organized — I bought this and this and these. In retrospect I wish I had bought two of the first one, but they’re all useful. Some of the bin walls are removable so you can make different size spaces for different kinds of parts. I then used regular sticky labels (Avery 5160) to label the outside so I could see what went where — for the smaller parts like resistors and capacitors I grouped them, so all the x10kΩ resistors went in one bin (in their little ziploc bags), all the x100kΩ in another bin, etc. it still requires some fishing through (vs buying a big table top organizer) but I live in a small house :)

u/baddays79 · 1 pointr/diypedals

I bought most of the kits from Small Bear Electronics (the exception was the resistor kits). They are one of the only sources I've found for capacitor kits, transistors, op amps, pots, etc and they have some great stuff available.

Link to kits here

Spent about $100 but it took a lot less time than ordering all the items separately on Mouser.

I also bought a resistor kit from Joe Knows Electronics on Amazon.

Link to resistor kit here

I would also recommend buying a component tester, it's one of the best purchases I've made. It makes it feasible to pull all the components off of your breadboard and sort them quickly so you can reuse them. Also very handy in double checking a component value when you're building a pedal without looking at the color coding, etc.

Link to component tester

u/arapawa · 1 pointr/diypedals

I started with a cheap iron from Radioshack and gave up on soldering for years because I sucked at it.

Then I upgraded to this Weller station and suddenly I was soldering like a pro. Temperature adjustment is amazing.

I don't know about any of the super-cheap ones on Amazon, but there's definitely value in spending more to get a great iron.

u/sebotron · 1 pointr/diypedals

My wall of text posts about asking for help will show that I'm still not an expert but the first book that really got me going was Electronics for Guitarists ( http://www.amazon.ca/Electronics-Guitarists-Denton-J-Dailey/dp/1461440866 )

It's not free unfortunately but it's the first book that I found delved at a good level into electronics but always from the perspective of a guitarist instead of an EE student. I do believe that learning something, especially something as complex as electronics, is much easier when in the right context, which for us, is guitar effects and amplification.

You won't find cookie-cutter recipies but you will find a lot of very simple circuits and their analysis and explanation. Also, the math is not required and you can skip it, but it's in there if you want it which I think is a good thing.

I think you can read a bit of chapter one about power supplies on Amazon. Take a look!

u/GCEmD · 3 pointsr/diypedals

Hi! I built a Beavis Board about six weeks ago. Not terribly difficult to make at all. I purchased these on amazon from Joe knows...

Resistors
Capacitors
Transistors

The problem I have is that some of transistors aren't right for the layouts, the capacitors aren't film, and I couldn't find an assorted IC box.

If I had to do it all over again I would catalog all the parts needed for every project on the projects guide or see of there was a list of items the Beavis Board came with and take that to Tayda or Mammoth. It's a lot of work but will be better in the long run.

I'm definitely interested if anyone else has purchased assorted boxes and how that worked out.

u/Hellspark08 · 5 pointsr/diypedals

This is what I use.

It isn't the cheapest adjustable station out there, but it seems to be good quality. I've had a handful of cheap irons over the years, and I wish I had just started with something like this.

Edit: Fixed my link.

u/fizzlebottom · 6 pointsr/diypedals

I bought this a while ago, which has been fantastic for filling boards and soldering components. It gets tough if you have components really close to the edges, but that's why I also use a regular old helping hand tool.

u/iamhelltothee · 1 pointr/diypedals

Thanks, this was really helpful! Since with this blog I finally better understood the process of building pedals, I’ve made up my mind about getting into this and learning as much as possible. It’s a great blog.

I do have a follow up question thou. I’m now making a list of tools I’ll need to get for the job, I already have a few but I’m missing a multimeter. Would [this one](Innova 3320 Auto-Ranging Digital Multimeter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EVYGZA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_A3m-AbTVDFTA0) be good enough?

u/shiekhgray · 3 pointsr/diypedals

I just had a similar misshap! How weird. I got lucky since the model name and number were written on the soldering iron itself so I could get a new one cheaply. You need a new "Soldering Iron" not a new "Soldering Station" I believe. You can plug a really simple iron into a very nice station and have all the benefits of the station temp controller and so on, I think. I've got a WLC100 and the replacement soldering iron is called the SPG40

u/r4d0x · 2 pointsr/diypedals

The nicest one I have ever used was [this one by Otto Frei.](
http://www.ottofrei.com/Store/Soldering-Stations-Third-Hands/GRS-004-570-Double-Soldering-Station-With-2-Third-Hands.html) I really liked it when I borrowed it to do some wire harness and cable modifications, so much so that I looked it up afterward, but I couldn't handle the sticker shock.

For pedal making/modifying, I would recommend a circuit board holder and a typical helping hand (with or without magnifying glass) so that you have both hands available to use the iron and feed solder.

u/exploringaudio1999 · 1 pointr/diypedals

here's what i currently use - http://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-FX-888D/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_1

get a good iron, don't get something really cheap. everything is easier with something that works well.

u/pvalhalla · 6 pointsr/diypedals

There's the Brian Wampler book that people always talk about in this sub, I don't know if it's exactly what you're looking for, but you should check it out anyway, it's a great source.

u/AnagramGuy · 5 pointsr/diypedals

Thanks! Took a couple tries. I used a similar set to this one: Letter Punches

And then I fill the letters with black paint and buff the surface.

This was the inspiration:
http://fairfieldcircuitry.com/

u/eagleace21 · 2 pointsr/diypedals

Ah yeah those will cut but you need something that will cut shorter. I found these on Amazon they work great!

u/Niketplos · 4 pointsr/diypedals

Nice!

​

But invest in one of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q2TTQEE/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_syT0DbPDK5FM5... 10 bucks and will save you time

u/terrorizeplaza · 1 pointr/diypedals

ElectroSmash has some very good breakdown of famous pedals, their circuits and how each part of the circuit shapes the wave. Here is Big Muff for example.

Apart from that, I can't 100% guarantee it will answer your questions, but I've recently stumbled upon a book called Electronic Projects for Musicians by Craig Anderton. I've skimmed over it and it seems to explain everything quite nicely.

Last thing - you can try and get a degree in Electronic Engineering :D

u/EricandtheLegion · 2 pointsr/diypedals

For frame of reference, I am also BRAND NEW to this hobby. Been poking around for maybe 2 weeks tops. Before this, I had never even seen a soldering iron in person.

How much of an investment is a huge investment for you? If you can stomach around 100 bucks, this package has ALMOST everything you need. The only addition I would make is this 10 dollar cleaning station.

As far as learning technique, check out this series of videos, particularly the soldering and de-soldering ones.

u/commiecomrade · 1 pointr/diypedals

Build Your Own Clone

I doubt you'd keep track of any more websites I could mention above once you find a few kits there. As far as equipment goes, get:

A decent soldering iron ... Alternative (please also get this with the alternative)

Solder

Micro Cutters to trim leads

Hopefully you have a small flat-head screwdriver to set knobs and a small flat pair of pliers to attach hardware to the enclosures.

I doubt you'd need to but if you ever need to get any components that aren't supplied with a kit, go to Tayda Electronics for nearly any part (they tend to be cheapest for hobbyists, you can find anything from passive components like resistors and capacitors, to knobs/switches/audio and power jacks, etc.).

u/robotgraves · 4 pointsr/diypedals

I'll start with a meta one. How do you organize your parts?

I am currently using 4 of these: https://www.amazon.com/Akro-Mils-10164-Plastic-Storage-Hardware/dp/B000LDH3JC

with a mix of 15 of these: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/80102919/

And I feel like i just can't keep things as organized as I'd like. What do you do?

u/lithiumdeuteride · 2 pointsr/diypedals

I've used this one for many years.

It lacks capacitor- and transistor-testing modes, but it was designed mainly for automotive use, and for the price, it's very good.

u/oddmanero · 2 pointsr/diypedals

it will get you started, for sure. this is a very comprehensive kit for an absolute beginner, but it lacks in quality of components.

i bought what seems to be another version of the exact same kit, my soldering iron looks the same, the solder sucker, multimeter, tweezers, wire cutter and multitool.

my issues with this kit: the soldering iron tips seem like they're extremely low quality; i've soldered 3 or 4 pedals and i've had to change the tip (thankfully there are a few different/replacement tips in there). the solder is nothing to write home about; my dad has since gifted me some proper, thin, good quality 63-37 solder. he also gave me a brass tip-cleaner (like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-599B-02-Wire-type-soldering-cleaner/dp/B00FZPGDLA/ )

whenever i move out of this tiny apartment i'll certainly spring the extra cash for a soldering station setup from a reputable brand (weller, hakko)

u/philroyjenkins · 2 pointsr/diypedals

I have this already https://www.amazon.com/Donner-Guitar-Supply-Isolated-Output/dp/B00WHLLDWO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495833819&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=donner+power+supply&psc=1 which is about the same thing.

I just don't like that the best way to connect it is a flimsy and cumbersome wall wort. I'd much rather have a hefty and universal extension cable.

u/uhdoy · 1 pointr/diypedals

Thanks for the tips re: clips and Electrodroid.

Can't picture how using the vice would work... Usually what i do is put the components through, smoosh on the Blu-tack, then use this circuit board holder to spin it upside down for the soldering:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Q2TTQEE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/gentlethistle · 1 pointr/diypedals

This is a good starter CAP Kit

And in a pinch for work I needed some resistors, so I drove over and bought this KIT
for $8.

It is nice to have a range of stuff laying around, but you will never be able to stock everything you may ever need.

I dont stock many trannys (maybe 5 varieties), but I do have a few drawers of IC's.

u/Zodsayskneel · 2 pointsr/diypedals

Craig Anderton's Electronic Projects for Musicians! I actually bought this book in 2010 and it completely overwhelmed me. Then I watched an interview with Jeorge Tripps (I think in the FUZZ documentary) where he mentions this book specifically as how he got started. I recently dusted it off and now I totally understand everything going on in there (I think!!!)

u/BrewerGlyph · 3 pointsr/diypedals

I've used assortment packs like this before:

Joe Knows Electronics 1/4W 86 Value 860 Piece Resistor Kit
by Joe Knows Electronics
Link: http://amzn.com/B003UC4FSS

Also search for Elenco

u/miklar · 2 pointsr/diypedals

I think it is this book Splunlen is refering to: https://www.amazon.com/How-Modify-Guitar-Pedals-how/dp/1434801063

Please note that there seems to be a new version out soon.

u/musicman116 · 1 pointr/diypedals

Yet another vote for Weller soldering irons. The WLC100 is the model I use and it does the job well.

u/BuzzBotBaloo · 2 pointsr/diypedals

> Have I received bad information?

Yes, very bad information.

> (1) is this passing along the power into my own effects chain?

Unfortunately...yes. And that's not good because...

> (2) if so, would that power be too much and risk damage?

Absolutely yes. The amp, the effects, and just about everything "down river" may be ruined.

If you really are interested in learning more about DIY FX and stuff, this was a book I got decades ago and still own a worn, dog-eared copy...I have never built any of the projects (many use obsolete parts and I'm too lazy to cross-reference them when there are so many great projects available from modern sites), but it's a good read for how many things like this work. BTW, if you google the book title, you might find a PDF of it on a university website. It's probably also available through a library.

u/fast_luck · 6 pointsr/diypedals

That looks like it's from the Anderton book Electronics Projects for Musicians

The 4739 opamp and CLM6000 optocouplers are unobtainium nowadays, but geofex has some tips for replacing them.

u/patrick848 · 2 pointsr/diypedals

I am looking for a way to ventilate solder fumes in a room, either through a filter or out a window. I'm specifically worried about a pet cockatiel that lives in another room. Does anyone have any advice on a ventilator/fume extraction device? I've found a lot of lab-grade ones for hundreds/thousands of dollars, but I'm looking for something (much) cheaper, and maybe even DIY.

I used to not care about fumes... but now I feel like I should be extra careful... I found this but it looks like that would be sort of hard to work under.

Edit: does anyone have experience with this?

u/carbonpath · 2 pointsr/diypedals

Cheap soldering irons suck, no matter the brand.
Save up and get this:
Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station FX-888D FX-888 (blue & yellow) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apu_86QSBb47A3XH3

u/theunderwrittenmusic · 2 pointsr/diypedals

Who knows how precise this is (hint: probably not very) but what's wrong with something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Donner-DP-1-Guitar-Supply-Isolated/dp/B00WHLLDWO

u/001146379 · 1 pointr/diypedals

https://www.amazon.com/Electronics-Guitarists-Denton-J-Dailey/dp/1461440866/

i have it, but i'm too dumb to really understand and make use of it :(

Edit: you might wanna check out http://www.electrosmash.com/ as well