(Part 3) Top products from r/dogs

I am not a trainer so take this with a grain of salt (I am training my own SD currently with assistance of a trainer, though). I'd definitely recommend clicker training, too.

For puppies, I'd start out feeding them out of your hand (to prevent resource guarding) and then transition to a bowl in your lap. Or feed him in a kong in his crate (put some water in a serving of dry food, mix it and freeze it in the kong). Be sure when you crate him to give him lots of teething and chew toys (no stuffed animals because they could be torn up), no rope toys (because they could be swallowed and make him sick), and no squeaky toys (for obvious reasons). Give him positive association with the crate (throw treats in and around it, feed him in it, put chew toys in it, etc) Be sure to let him outside enough during the night (since he's so young) but don't let him out every time he barks or he will think every time he barks, he gets to leave. For things to chew, I'd recommend any type of chew toy, split antlers, hooves, and benebones. (Don't do rawhides, though)

I'd recommend doing a lot of socializing and building your bond at this point (especially since he's a GSD, if he's not socialized enough he could become protective of you). Get him used to traveling in a car. Touch all over his body and get him used to being touched (for grooming purposes). Do a puppy socialization class if you can. Carry him into pet friendly stores and get him used to lots of situations & have good meetings with strangers and let them pet him. Get into a routine. Feeding, exercising, crating, etc. all at the same time every day. Don't let him sleep in your bed at a young age. While he's still potty training, crating is essential. And make sure he can walk on a loose leash (and use training collars to help with this if you want to).

Start with basic obedience (come, sit, down, stand, stay, etc.) and do a lot of self control training. I'd keep him on a leash at all times. What I do with my dog is give her a "place" that she stays on all the time when we're at home and not playing or exercising (and she's on a leash too but I'd recommend getting some type of tether instead to keep him in his place). This teaches them to settle. Reward being calm and work on waiting (like drop a treat and they have to wait for you to say "okay!" and waiting to go through doors, etc.). Do not let him get into behaviors like jumping on people or counter surfing.

Then after all of that is solid (and he's older), do a lot of PA training. Then work on task training. Here is a good video on medical alerts. I don't know if seizure alert training is similar to other medical alerts but I hope that the video is helpful.

For training help, I'd recommend this YouTube channel.

> I wouldn't register him if he wasn't ready or able to do it though.

I don't know where you live but in the US, there's no such thing as registering.

(Source) Look at questions 7 and 17

Good luck with your dog!

ACDs are quite the toy destroyers aren't they? Although my guy isn't quite as esteemed in the destruction field as an ACD, he is pretty bad. Here's what has survived him:

• Kong Sqrunch
  
• Ethical Skinneeez Big Bite Coyote Stuffingless Dog Toy (I really like this one because you can replace the water bottle inside. The only issue I have with it is that it can get kind of grimey)
  
• KONG Wobbler Treat Dispensing Dog Toy (good if he likes puzzles)
  
• KONG Extreme Dog Toy, Black
  
• Invincibles Snake Stuffingless Durable Tough Plush Dog Squeaky Toy with Squeakers by Outward Hound
  
• Jolly Pets Push-n-Play 14-Inch (might be really fun for him as it taps in to some herding dog's natural herding instinct)
  
• Benebone Real Flavor Wishbone Chew Toy, Made in USA (I'd be careful with these and supervision only at first. If your dog's chewing style is too aggressive, he can end up bleeding. I wouldn't dismiss it until you try it though. My boy is pretty aggressive, but works for him.)
  
• West Paw Zogoflex Hurley Durable Dog Bone Chew Toy for Aggressive Chewers, 100% Guaranteed Tough, It Floats!, Made in USA, for Strong Chewers (this one is awesome. Aside from some dirt, it looks exactly like the day I bought it to this day.
  
• goDog Dragons Flats Plush Dog Toy with Chew Guard Technology (My guy really likes plush toys and squeakers. He doesn't normally get them because he likes ripping them out and it's not the safest. This is the best one that I've found so far that will put up the biggest fight.)
  
• Goughnuts - Original Dog Chew Ring (a lot of people really like this, but unfortunately, Atlas doesn't seem to like the shape too much.)
  
• MultiPet Goblets Pig latex Dog toy Assorted Colors (lmfao my dog fucking loves this pig. The squeaker doesn't last, but the pig's outer shell does. He loves it a lot.)
  
• JW Pet Company Mini Hol-ee Roller Dog Toy, Colors Vary (They've also got an extreme edition here)
  
• MuttNation Fueled by Miranda Lambert Faux Suede Dog Toy (his face has come off, and his tail is frayed, but it is still chewable and he enjoys playing with it)
  
• KONG Cozies Dog Squeaky Toy (Also a really great option if you want to treat him to a plush toy. It will last longer than most others. Mine ripped off the ear when he first got it, but the rest lasted quite a while.)
  
• Outward Hound Hide-A-Squirrel and Puzzle Plush Squeaking Toys for Dogs (He loved this toy so much. He loves puzzles, but he destroyed the log fairly quickly. Surprisingly, he has had one of the squirrels for over a year ... and it still squeaks. I lost the rest of them, but that one little squirrel is still going strong.)
  
• Mammoth TireBiter Chew Toy with Rope (don't get this unless you don't mind bits of tire coming off)
  
• OurPets IQ Treat Ball Interactive Food Dispensing Dog Toy (great if your dog eats kibble and likes puzzles)
  
• Nylabone Dental Dino Power Chew DuraChew Dental Chew Toy (Like the benebone, watch him with this one at first. It's really hard and you don't want him to hurt himself. Eventually wears down, but takes a damn long time)
  
• We also do rope toys, antlers, bully sticks (special occasion- they last like 5 minutes), raw bones (we feed raw), Himalayan Yak Chews, and Flirt Pole.
  
  Reading my list, god damn my dog is spoiled. Keep in mind, these are just the toys that have made it. I'm not even counting the ones he's destroyed!
  
  Let me know if you have any questions!
  
  Lastly, I don't own a husky, but man do I respect the destruction a husky can wreck. I would recommend going to a husky group on facebook or a subreddit to see what toys they would recommend. If it's husky approved... it should last.
  
  
  

Honestly... there's a lot going on here. As you know, a trainer who can evaluate all of this in person would help a lot. Can you ask the shelter to see if they have any trainers on staff or partner trainers that can help you at a low cost?

Based on what you've said, your dog has separation anxiety, is reactive or outright dog aggressive, has prey drive issues, and is generally independent and stubborn.

Separation Anxiety: This guide covers the topic in a lot of depth. The Crate Games mentioned would help the crate training a lot, too. Here's the ASPCA's Weekend Crate Training guide. I'd start completely over with her crate training. Keep in mind that your dog probably has a negative association with the crate so it'll take longer than weekend.

Reactivity: /r/Dogtraining has a weekly Reactive Dog thread with a lot of resources to understand the problem and start working on it. If your dog is dog aggressive, the techniques are the same too. It's just of utmost importance to keep your dog from interacting with another dog. I own a reactive dog - a lot of my walks feel like a stealth game where I hide from other dogs.

Cats/Prey Drive: Honestly... this is the sort of thing you just manage for now. Keep them separated. Give the cats plenty of escapes like cat trees, pet gates, high shelves, etc.

Walking: I use an Easy Walk with my hard puller and it's like night and day. It helped a lot. The front clip harness turns the dog when they pull, so it reduces pulling. You can also try a Halti, but a lot of dogs really hate that without time to condition a positive response.

No Treats: This book is great for learning how to train a stubborn dog. But I'd say, start from the beginning and work on making treats fun and exciting for her. When I first got my dog, he barely ate food from a bowl, much less train for it. I did a few things to make interacting with me/food more fun. First, Finn only got his meals through training/interacting with me in some form. I kept training BASIC and treated him a lot. He walked near me? Kibble. He looked at me? YAY more kibble. He seemed to want to interact with me in any way? GREAT! Kibble party! Say his name and he looks at me? Wooo, shower of kibble. Keep your criteria for success low and build up to it. Getting a dog to drop something they value in exchange for a treat is a pretty high level concept. Make it so the dog feels like playing with you is always rewarding. I also didn't just hand him kibble to his mouth. I throw it in weird directions (helpful for prey/chase drive). I'd hide it and then release him to find it. I'd put it inside a box or something that he got to destroy. There are a lot of food games you can play to make food and yourself more interesting.

You sound well-prepared! Going with a rescue group you know and trust is a great idea.

• I would second the suggestion to think about getting a dog-walker midday. 9 hours is really pushing it - especially if you get a smaller dog (with a therefore smaller bladder). If you do that, your schedule will be fine for low-medium-energy dogs.
  
• Yes, with mixed-breed dogs, visual ID is highly unreliable. The advantage of getting an adult dog is that their personalities and temperaments are pretty much set, so knowing the breed background really isn't as important as it would be for predicting the future temperament of a puppy. With a rescue group, they have their dogs in foster for a while (the rescue where I adopted mine had a 2-week minimum before the dogs were available, so they could evaluate them), so they should be able to tell you about their good and bad qualities, habits, likes and dislikes, etc. The descriptions in the ads are just a starting place - once you make contact, you should have more extensive conversation about the dog with the foster.
  
• Yes, once you've gone through talking about a dog and everything sounds good, do a meet-and-greet. Try really hard not to go to it already committed - do your best to be objective in evaluating the dog, and do not feel pressured to say yes and take the dog home right then if you're unsure.
  
• As for guidance about adopting an adult, I recommend Patricia McConnell's Love Has No Age Limit. She is a trainer and a PhD in animal behavior, and her books are excellent. This one is a nice booklet under 100 pages. Dogs are very adaptable, and can be trained and bonded with their owners at any age.
  
  Good luck!

Congratulations on your new puppy, she's a cutie. You are gonna have a ball! It's practically impossible to totally screw up a puppy unless you are abusive. They all seem to survive our bumbling and inability to speak their language.

If you are new to dogs you don't yet understand that they have a language that you can learn. Please do yourself and your dog a favor and learn a bit of it with this inexpensive invaluable book. it will help you understand what your dog is trying to tell you.
http://www.amazon.com/On-Talking-Terms-With-Dogs/dp/1929242360

Here is her web site with some quick info:
http://www.canis.no/rugaas/onearticle.php?artid=1

Please please throw the Purina food away. If you google the ingredients you will see that it is worse than McDonalds. It contains animal byproducts which is from dead and dying animals as well as any bit of crap they can't put in human food. It also contains corn which dogs can't readily digest and many are allergic to.

Buy a good food made without wheat or corn and with meat as its top ingredient. Here is a link to food ratings. http://www.dogfoodadvisor.com/dog-food-reviews/dry/

You want to choose a 5 star food if you can afford it, or a 4 star. Look at the ingredients and remember that this is the ONLY food she will get, she can't go out and buy anything else. You have to feed her the best you can. Follow the directions on the bag for amounts for the dry food.

To give her the best nutrition mix in some good quality canned food or make up a nice chicken stew, with lots of chicken and vegetables like green beans, broccoli and cauliflower to put on top. She's a baby and good nutrition is important. Besides if you love her it makes you feel good to provide good healthy food and watch her bloom.

The bath for the fleas was good. She needs to see the vet right away and he or she can advise you on what to use for her. Vet care is important. Have her microchipped if you can because rural dogs can get lost.

The crate should be big enough so that she has a place to sleep at one end and a place to go potty. If you have a secure room you could put her in there as well. Be sure to give her toys that are soft and squeak and toys that she can chew on. Gently discourage her chewing on anything but her toys. Sometimes a dab of peanut butter on a toy can make it more interesting. Don't give her rawhide chews (avoid giving Greenies at all) when you aren't home though, as they can choke on them.

There are lots of resources on the net for housebreaking. Dogs don't like to potty in their own home so after a few fits and starts she will get the idea. It will be some time before she can hold it for 8-9 hours though. Keep an eye on her after meals and take her out. Watch her and when she goes be an absolute fool about praising her and talking baby talk and anything else she finds exciting. You want her to associate it with good things. :)

Have fun reading and learning. Keep reinforcement positive. If you fuss at her make it short and forgive her immediately. Dogs don't hold grudges, they scold one another and move on. Humans could learn a lot from them.

KONG works wonders for me. Half-freeze it and boom! Endless puppy satisfaction. It's really strong and you can put treats in it entice your pup. As fuckmylife112 says, rotate your toys so that your pup won't get bored. I also use those rope toys (tug-of-war toys) because they're also pretty strong. Do note that you need to reward good behavior and use a stern but warm voice when correcting your pup like yelping when he bites you.

If toys don't work, you can use an anti-biting spray. Spray it on the things you don't want get chewed on and once your pup tastes the bad flavor, they are less likely to bite again.

KONG:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002AR182/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=sl1&tag=dogmomdaily-20&linkId=a5015a0e131bf582d18ad2d7e1f3f95e&linkCode=w61&imprToken=HNayx181fUWwMY3FikiDyg&slotNum=0

ANTI-TEETHING SPRAY (FOOEY-what i use)https://www.amazon.com/SynergyLabs-Fooey-Ultra-Bitter-Spray/dp/B0002DIOD0/?tag=petresults-20

ANTI-TEETHING SPRAY (Bodhi dog)https://www.amazon.com/Chewing-Puppies-Training-Treatment-Professional/dp/B01I2A6MPG/?tag=petresults-20

There's this so called indestructible chew toy (with a guarantee, never used it but many people are worshiping it lol) if your pup is a death machinehttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042JJB82/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0042JJB82&linkCode=as2&tag=territerri-20&linkId=R63I4QQQKB7BCLBS


EDIT: If you can't have these things delivered, you can buy those rope toys from the pet store or a supermarket in the pet sections. They're pretty good if you buy those tight and thick ones. Squeaky toys are really good too. Wipe some peanut butter on them if your pup doesn't seem interested and reward good behavior.


I also found ice cubes or iced toys really good too. The coldness soothes the gums and helps your pup.
You can get rawhide (get the big ones) but you need to supervise your pup when does chew on it because there are certain cons this https://www.dogingtonpost.com/rawhide-good-bad-ugly/


Good luck!

Hi - I have a Belgian Shepherd myself (Sheepdog variety, aka Groenendael). She is five now and much calmer than she was as a puppy, but as a pup, we were in the dog park twice a day (morning and night) for about 30-60 minutes each time, usually playing fetch (or she was herding other dogs).


You have a few options here other than just giving the dog up, but they will require you to commit time and some money to this.


First, wake up early and go to the dog park. I have something called the chuck it that I used all the time when my Belgian was a puppy. This toy let me avoid picking up disgusting tennis balls by hand while also throwing the toy way further than I typically could. Your dad working 9-5 is like my work schedule - I would wake up at like 6:30, take her to the park, come home around 7:15 and then feed her and get ready for work. She was used to be kenneled from about 8-12 when I would come home over lunch to let her out (I lived 5 minutes from my office). It wasn't much of a break, but it split up the day a bit for her. I would go back to work and leave her with a frozen kong toy that would mentally keep her occupied while I was gone. When I came home, I let her out, changed clothes, and off to the park again.


Also, have you considered doggy daycare or a dog walker? Days I knew would be long in the office, I couldn't get home, or had an event in the evening - she would go to daycare. It was about $25 a day but she basically was running and playing with other dogs for 9 hours. Great socialization and she was exhausted. Dog walker prices vary by area - I would check with some local rescue groups and see who they recommend (they should know the reputable walkers in the area).


Finally, the pup needs training. Either go to PetCo or PetSmart to get started with basic obedience and then graduate to other classes. My little girl was in advance obedience at 6 months old - she was on track for agility training when she was full grown (recommended as to not hurt her growing joints) but we moved and an agility facility was unfortunately nowhere near by. However, that said, I still kept up her training and daily dog park trips.


If you aren't willing to dedicate the time and energy to the breed, you're going to have a hell of a time. They're great dogs but you have to put the time in to working them out, physically and mentally. If you can't, see if the breeder will take the pup back (most will if they're good) and if not, contact the Belgian Shepherd rescue group - they probably have a foster system of some sort setup. Other local rescues may be able to help as well, just make sure they are foster based or have a private facility - don't just give the dog to animal control or the town shelter.

I have a reactive dog, too. Today we had a particularly stressful walk... we weren’t even a block from home when she went and lost her mind barking at my very sweet elderly neighbors who were also out for a walk. It was pretty much downhill from there.

We have been working so hard on dealing with her reactivity, and she has made a lot of progress... But... this is not what I wanted... I wanted a dog that I could take places, go hiking with, take to the dog park, who could play with my friend’s dogs, not freak out on my neighbors...and it’s hard to come to terms with what I actually have. It can be very stressful.

It helped to accept her for what she is. To realize that she is not going to be the dog that I pictured having. I don’t know what the cause of her anxiety is, but I know that she’s been through a lot in her two years. It helps to think about how much progress we have made, to celebrate the baby steps. It helps to realize that dogs, like people, can have bad days too. I try not to let her reactivity overshadow her many other great qualities. But yeah, that can be pretty hard sometimes.

I recommend picking up a copy of the book The Other End of the Leash by Patricia McConnell. It’s a fantastic book with a lot of insight about dog behavior and their interactions with us. She is also the author of Feisty Fido: Help for the Leash Reactive Dog , which I also recommend.

No problem!

Tiring out dogs can be a real pain. Thankfully I have 2 that play well together... One that has a never ending drive to retrieve, and one that loves to be chased. I throw the ball for the one that wants to be chased, and they run in big circles around me for 30 minutes non-stop, then we go inside and they pass out on the cold tile floor in the bathroom! It's fantastic. Haha.

The best advice I can give you is to use high value rewards. One of mine loves fetch just for the sake of fetch. The other wants a food reward. We had to initially get him interested by "trading" a ball for a small slice of hot dog. Once he understood that, we'd toss the ball 2-3 ft away, and he'd bring it back for more hot dog. Then we slowly moved to 10 ft, 20 ft, then full tosses. Once he gets the hang of it, you can phase the hot dog out (1 piece every other retrieve, then every third, then every fifth) until he's really just playing fetch because they like it.

My other big point of advice would be to get a Chuck It Launcher and a pack of Ultra Balls. The launcher makes it way easier to throw for a long time, as you don't have to bend over to pick the balls up, your hands don't get nasty, and the balls go farther. And the ultra balls are great because they are a near-indestructible rubber rather than the tennis ball that comes with the launcher (and they float!).

A question for you to consider before I go into some recs for you: Have you considered the size of the dog relative to your flat? Small/medium dogs can be easier to manage in a smaller living space, and it’s important to consider personality as well (calm v. high-energy will help if you have to leave).

The solution my partner and I have come up with:

1. My job allows me to work from home a few days a week, so I can let our dog out or give her attention during the day.
   
2. On days when I have to go to the office and partner has to work, dog gets to go to dog daycare (which she loves)! The best part about this is that she comes home exhausted from the fun.
   
3. We adopted an older puppy (~8 months), which means she was already at an age where she could hold her bladder overnight. I do not recommend you start with a 3-month old puppy if this is your first dog. Between work and caring for what is essentially an infant, it might be a lot to handle.
   
4. With all skills related to your dog, start small and move up (ie, if you need to leave, try leaving for only five minutes and see what the dog does. Praise highly if they are calm and don’t destroy anything, and gradually work toward longer increments. If the dog doesn’t do what you wish, stay calm, and move back to practicing the last successful step).
   
   Another option that we did not care for, but many people recommended: hire a professional, trustworthy dog-walker to come by once or twice a day to give the dog emotional and physical stimulation, and let the dog relieve itself.
   
   I highly recommend a training guide (books or videos) if you do decide to adopt a new friend—partner, myself, and dog really benefited from Zak George’s “Dog Training Revolution” and he has many supplementary videos on YouTube as well.
   
   Tl;dr: I am a talkative dog person with lots of advice for managing a furry friend that you will either love or hate.

Love Has No Age Limit-Welcoming an Adopted Dog into Your Home

Best $10 you can spend.

I love her books, and am always amazed to realize how little I do know.

My 10 year old Male Golden Retriever was getting into "fights" with the 3 year old Female Golden Retriever who is new to us, but has had a lot of Service Dog training. Irony is the new dog is a very passive Service Dog, and ignores almost everything. Everything was great for three weeks, but once the New Dog felt "at home" things slightly changed.

Older GR gets stressed during storms and likes hiding behind pillows on the couch. Younger Golden decided that was a pretty nice spot to hang out and chill, too. First storm... seemed like all hell broke loose. Lots of snapping at each other, thankfully no puncture wounds (that is more by accident).

Never pull a dog back by its collar, way too easy for a dog to whip it's head around and bite. If they have family jewels, grabbing firmly and yanking gets their attention. If Neutered/female... grab the base of their tail. Gets their attention and enough time to stop by the time they whip around they realize "oh, it's you". /u/beavizsla has an excellent point. You really don't "yank" but lightly grab to get them to stop what they are doing! In the heat of the moment, way too easy to pull to hard and cause damage.

Once it was pretty clear the "resource guarding" was both dogs wanting my attention, simple to let the older one keep his routine and the new comer to sit on the floor next to me. SD has two lives, one with a vest "I'm working, do not disturb" other is at home, no vest... time to be a silly dog. :)

Both are happy and doing great.

tl;dr: Get that damn book from Amazon and read it!

Well yes and no - in my humble opinion.

You are doing great at taking your dog at 2 times a day - I do the same, once when I get up and once when I get home from work. We usually are out for no less than an hour each session. The big difference is that I usually have my dog fetch at least 1 of the sessions for the hour and he really get's a good run in.

One suggestion is maybe try to train your dog to play fetch? I know not every dog is going to have that "prey drive" and ability to do it as well as others, but if your's was like my dog - he just didn't know how to play "that game".

I got my dog from an adoption agency and I'm pretty sure he had terrible ill-prepared owners who ended up giving him away. When I took him to his first field and threw a ball for the first time - he just looked at me funny. I had to "teach and train" him what to do. Try this resource and maybe purchase one of these - they help out immensely.

Bottom line, it's probably not good to ONLY walk your dog. He needs to get a good run in at least once or twice a week (at the least and pending his size/breed). Teaching fetch is probably the easiest solution (and the quickest) and it requires little to no physical exertion in comparison to getting in shape to run with your dog.

Dogs are not good surprise gifts. If you're going to adopt a dog for the whole family, bring the whole family to meet it and bring the whole family to train it. One thing they don't talk about much in books is finding a dog that genuinely likes people and other dogs and finding a dog for first timers. Make sure you spend a good half hour with the dog and ask tons of questions about the dog's temperament from someone more experienced - if you have friends that own well adjusted dogs (probably not the one you mention in the post), bring them with you. Touch him all over to see how he deals with being handled, run with him walk with him one at a time, move slowly and confidently and look for signs of stress: http://www.maplewooddog.com/MDT/Articles/Communication-Handling-Articles/DogBodyLanguagePoster.jpg

You do not need to adopt the first sad eyes you see.

As for preventing behavioral issues like nipping, licking being a pest. You may want to start with a younger dog (10-24 months) who is less set in his ways and beginning to mature; more of a blank slate and willing to learn what is expected of him. It goes both ways, you must constantly train him what is expected in your household and how to distract him from doing things you dislike.

Keywords like this can point to a balanced dog: turnkey, easy going, relaxed, outgoing, happy, confident, playful, loves car rides, friendly, biddable, keen, young, good with people, good with kids, good with other dogs and cats, smart, spayed, aims to please, settles nicely, crate trained, house broken, watches tv :).

Stay away from dogs with keywords like these until you have more experience to care for their needs: special needs, shy, medical issues or allergies, reactive, fearful, may become aggressive, no kids, no cats, separation anxiety, needs lots of room, active homes only, growls, was a chained outdoor dog, not for apartments, suffered from parvo when young, epilepsy, intact, not for dog parks, not for off leash, needs lots of love, came from another country, strong prey drive, thinks he's smarter than humans.

For the more concrete questions: what to buy, what to do before the big day, how to introduce the dog to your home. Start with this book. It helped me SO much as a first timer.

http://www.amazon.com/books/dp/1891767143

Invest in some good positive training courses a month later and make sure the whole household knows they need to provide activity/food/walks for the dog. You might want to do some breed research and find what agrees with your lifestyle. Many shelter dogs are mixes, but it's good to at least know the breeds so you don't end up with a Husky, feral dog, wolf hybrid or sighthound as your first dog. Not that there's anything wrong with it, but they can be a handful for people with no dog experience.

Have you taken any psych classes? Intro to Psych is a very good and, IMO, very necessary foundation for being a trainer. It's not animal-specific, but a lot of the info is easily translatable to training animals.

Have you taken an animal behavior class? That's a good foundations class to take if it's offered in a community college or your university, if you attend one.

In regards to being able to read the dog's emotional state: Turid Rugaas' little booklet on Calming Signals is pretty helpful and well worth the $8. I learned a lot from Canine Body Language by Brenda Aloff when I first got my dog. Correctly identifying the dog's emotional state is step #1 in successfully working with dogs.

I assume this was targeted at me, just fyi since you didn't reply directly I didn't get alerted!

Things like a fan (~$60) dedicated to him in his room, and an elevated bed (~$21) to better facilitate keeping him cool that we managed to fit in his crate (orange may have pics?).

Some items to save US headaches include rug tape (~$15) to keep him and our stuff from getting slid around as he plays, a light-weight crate (~$86) for when we bring him with us to places and need a place for him to lay down and relax, mainly for when we are doing stuff with our other dog.

LOTS of clickers were purchased just so they are always handy. Some other oddities, like balance balls and stuff just to get him used to being on strange surfaces. This is mainly to set him up for future competition success, though.

Bitter Apple spray to make sure he doesn't chew things he shouldn't (rugs, shoes, couches, chairs, base board, electrical wires...basically anything that isn't his toy got sprayed daily for the first few weeks). Lots of Natures Miracle & paper towels to clean up any accidents.

My 9 month old puppy loves his benebone (http://www.amazon.com/Benebone-Bacon-Flavored-Wishbone-Chew/dp/B00CPDWT2M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411690320&sr=8-1&keywords=benebone). I just got him his third one a few days ago. There's two flavors, bacon and peanut butter (http://www.amazon.com/Benebone-Peanut-Butter-Flavored-Wishbone/dp/B00IK243R6/ref=pd_sbs_petsupplies_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1WFNGHN8B9FBJXC180JX), but my dog likes his bacon flavored benebone so much that I'm worried that he won't like the peanut butter one, so I haven't purchased that one for him. These last for a pretty long time. When he was a very young puppy, it lasted 3-4 months. His second one lasted 2 months. He used to spend 30 minutes to an hour chewing on it, but this has tapered off slightly.

I've bought him lots of chew toys, like a couple of different nylabones, an elk antler, bully sticks, etc. He chews on his elk antler once in a blue moon. He likes bully sticks, but can finish a 12" one in about 20 minutes, which is way too expensive for me. He never really liked his nylabones, especially the ones that are original flavored. Benebones are a lot like nylabones (they're both made of nylon), but the wishbone shape makes it easy to hold and it smells pretty strongly of bacon, which I think is why my dog likes it so much.

Jumping in to recommend the Bob-A-Lot that I got my dog a few months ago. It seems to be a little more work for her than the Kong Wobbler since you can adjust the hole that the food comes out of. If I don't feed her out of that, I use this dog bowl. Another good way for me to wear her brain out is to take the meal with us on our walks and train a little as we go.

Just recently my friend got me this toy and she loves it. She'll pull all the toys out and play with them for a while, then wait while I stuff them back in again.

Good luck!! I really hope you get to keep your pupper!

Someone already mentioned BAT training, look that up straightaway!

This book helped me a lot, it is designed for agility dogs with dog reactivity, but it has lots of specific exercises for you to do with your dog. For the ones that require other dogs I improvised- like I would work 100-300 ft away from a fenced dog park.

I also really love anything Patricia McConnell and this specific pamphlet is about leash reactivity. Short, to the point, honestly anything Patricia McConnell you can get your hands on would help you get an idea on the training methods you need to use.

Lastly, the Protocol for Relaxation by Dr. Karen Overall is just a basic exercise (you repeat it the same basic thing many many times), I feel like it greatly increased my dog's calmness and his ability to be calm/relaxed in various situations. This exercise doesn't directly relate to dog aggression, but it does teach your dog what you want him or her doing while a variety of crazy things are going on.

edit: For safety, I would keep your dog physically separated from other dogs at all times. Don't try to 'get over' the aggressiveness by forcing him to meet other dogs. If you are walking down the street and a person with a dog is walking towards you (or a loose dog!), immediately turn around and walk the other way. Or you could make a huuuuuuuuge arc around them. If you think your dog might bite another dog or a person I would use a basket muzzle.

If you want to true and utter control you should get a Chia Pet. You can find them here; https://chia.com/ .

​

1. Puppies and adult dogs don't like to be alone, they want to be with you. They follow you around.
   
2. Puppies and dogs, like people, like to know what's going on in their surroundings. It's an inborn survival trait.
   
3. That's also why they try to lead when walking. Puppies and adult dogs see the world through their nose, it's how they get and process information about their surroundings.
   
4. Your puppy is not trying to control you, he/she already knows you are in charge. Puppies and adult dogs behave in ways designed to get the things they need from you. They need food, they need love, they need stimulation (walks/play/exercise). Stop trying to 'control' your pet and instead 'teach' them to use the behaviours that you like by rewarding those behaviours with good things, i.e.: treats, play with a favourite toy etc.. Ignore the behaviours you dislike, i.e.: bringing him back to his place without comment, turning away when he jumps up on you etc.. You and your pet will both be happier. Please don't buy into any dog whispering bullshit, you'd be better off buying a book like this; https://www.amazon.ca/Talking-Terms-Dogs-Calming-Signals/dp/1929242360/ref=asc_df_1929242360/?tag=googleshopc0c-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=292939055252&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8123898998845343117&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9000855&hvtargid=pla-426747736299&psc=1 and learning how to communicate with your pet.
   
   ​

Licki mats work great for one-person treat dispensing/distracting while you work.

An unrelated option is to train your dog to use a scratch board (usually a piece of wood with sand paper attached) which will address their front nails but not back or dew claws. I am in the process of going through the Cooperative Care Book to desensitize my dog to dremeling but the scratch board is great for keeping her front nails short (which are the ones that grow the most) while she gets comfortable with the dremel.

• Labs are notoriously fast eaters, so maybe a puzzle toy? Here are some good ones: 1, 2, 3. You can also never have enough Kongs, and they're sold at big box pet stores.
  
• A cool fetch toy might be fun too, like a Chuckit or a Ball-on-a-Rope. You can find Chuckit products at the big box pet stores. I like the ball-on-a-rope for training...I can throw it, tug with it, dangle it like a flirt pole, and it fits in my pocket. This Frisbee is good for training too because I can fold it up and put it in my pocket. Plus it glows in the dark and floats!

In general, try one cup of kibble for every twenty pounds of dog.

The mounting could be a lot of things. For dogs who know each other already, it's often a form of play. In this case, it could be that the shepherd is nervous and that's how he relieves stress (think of chewing your nails, it's the same idea). Dogs hump of a LOT of different reasons. On rare occasions it is a dominance thing, but as long as the lab doesn't mind, I wouldn't worry too much. Is the shepherd fixed?

Definitely keep them separated if they have to be alone. If they get into a scuffle, don't reach in to try to break it up. You're very likely to get bit that way. Try filling a spray bottle with water and squirting them if they start to scuffle. It's often enough to break up a fight. You might also want to get a few of these. Even if you don't keep the shepherd, this is always a good thing to carry around. Dogs hate the smell, and combined with the surprise of it, it usually makes them back right down. And it doesn't hurt them, like mace does.

I would suggest that you bring the dog to your vet ASAP, just to get them checked out and scanned for a microchip. Animal shelters can usually scan for a chip, too, but I don't know if they would insist on taking the dog.

Anyway, good luck! I love shepherds.

One, she's probably going through a teen phase of seeing how far she can push, mine did at around that age. Two, it doesn't sound like you've been consistent enough - my GSD and I didn't 'walk' during her pulling phase. We basically moved two meters, she'd pull, I'd u-turn and we'd start again. We moved all of oh, 2-10m from my door for days. What tools are you using to make this easier for yourself? Easy walk harness? Gentle leader? Are you clicking and treating for check-ins? I frustrated the utter crap out of myself teaching it, but it worked. How often are you training? Are you letting your GSD work for food?

You also sound like your GSD has leash reactivity, which the breed seems to lean towards a little. Have you read into the CARE Protocol and worked on thresholds?

Focus wise, you have to train it. Work on focus by rewarding check ins throughout the day. Also work on focus as a training endeavour like this, and this.

Impulse control - it's yer choice and crate games, and of course impulse control games with tug/toys.

Other resources: Control Unleashed by Leslie McDevitt, Fired Up, Frantic, and Freaked Out by Laura VanArendonk Baugh, Fiesty Fiedo by Patricia B. McConnell, and Fenzi Classes.

TL;DR: This is pretty normal GSD behaviour, and may be part of a teen phase. Keep chugging.

Another method to handle such issues is by carying Spray Shield. It is a citronella based spray that shocks dogs systems long enough for you to gain control of the situation. I carry this as well as another least with me (for strays) on my walks. Luckily I have yet yo be required to use it, but I hear a lot of good things from the rescues I deal with (we foster) and my wife hears good things from her customers (she works at a pet goods store).

Ok, then you need to do counter conditioning, not just training. See if you can find a "Reactive Rover" Class, which is specifically for addressing this issue. They base their classes on this book.http://www.amazon.com/Feisty-Fido-Help-Leash-Reactive-Dog/dp/1891767070/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1463417697&sr=1-1&keywords=feisty+fido

You can just read the book, but the class gives you an opportunity to practice and do drills in a controlled setting. I took it with my dog and it did help. I will say, that if I go for a long time without walking with him and practicing what they train he will regress, so it is an ongoing process, but I did make a lot of progress with him...

Hi,
I have a leash reactive dog, some would recommend neutering and it can work, as long as you don't let the behaviour go on long enough that it becomes part of his personality. Personally, I'm not sure the evidence for behavioural alteration is rock solid, but if you're going to neuter anyway, it's worth a shot. Considering it started a few months ago, I'd say if you're going to get him snipped, do it soon.

Secondly, engage with a veterinary behaviourist. One that uses force free methods and is accredited. If you can't afford one, start with the book "BAT 2.0" or "When pigs fly!". In fact, while he's still entire start with those.

EDIT: added links and corrections.

I just use a Dremel Mini Mite though you might need to step up to the next more powerful one for a big dog.

I don't use clippers at all. Too nervous about cutting the quick and generally my dogs have done better with a dremel. I mean they still don't like it but once they get used to it they don't try to get away as much. The only catch is to be careful to not dremel too much as it will get hot and can burn the quick. But on high speed I can take off 2-3 weeks worth of growth in a few seconds (depends on the dog and how hard/large their nails are). Plus it leaves things nice and rounded so it's not as rough on floors/skin.

If you decide to go this route, this is a great resource (I just finished reading it last night and it is an excellent book about positive training techniques that also delves into and uses research to discuss why negative (and abusive) training methods don't work. The author also has a ton of youtube videos showing how to positively teach different types of behavior in difference scenarios.

Zak George's Dog Training Revolution: The Complete Guide to Raising the Perfect Pet with Love

This is my absolute favorite dog book and it connects with his videos as well. The book is written in a more general sense that can be used with any dog of any age and it is really easy to follow.

Yes, gonoughts! It's the ONLY toy my friend's 80lb pit bull can't destroy. They have a lifetime warranty and interestingly the first version we got from Amazon did get chewed up in a couple weeks. After I sent it back the replacement they sent is is INDESTRUCTIBLE. That dog chews on it every day and has hardly made a dent in it after more than a year. I think the original version was some kind of cheaper rubber and they sent me the real thing when they realized I was going to use the warranty.

I got one of these a few months ago. so far it's held up well. It stays in place and helps the dog feel more secure since she cant fall between the seats. It works well to protect the seats from dirt/damage from other things as well.

If you have a really large dog it might not hold up (the straps that hold it up are a bit cheap), but it holds the full weight of my 45 lb dog easily.

It wouldn't work well as a divider, but we use a car harness for our dog regardless. Even if she was 100% trustworthy (not going to climb into front seat/run out of the car off leash) accidents happen.

For an independent-type personality, I highly recommend Jane Killion's When Pigs Fly: Training Success with Impossible Dogs. It's all about finding out what motivates your dog and using that as currency. I found it really helpful when I started out with my own aloof cat-dog.

If you end up needing the Yeast Infection medication, these ear drops work great. They are also very highly rated on Amazon and pretty cheap.

I use to buy this for my GSD who always had ear issues until this was discovered: ZYMOX Ear Solution | The Only No Pre-Clean Once -a-Day Dog and Cat Ear Solution | Natural Enzyme Formula | Veterinarian Recommended | Patented Enzyme Formula | Contains Hydrocortisone for Comfort https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0025YOJXS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3dvvCb1WYVJ0K

I took her to the vet so many times and never found a solution, results may vary - but worth a try to see if it helps.

We actually did the Wisdom Panel test on Zeus, and they said he is a lab + schnauzer + whippet mix, among other things.

I'm not sure I completely believe it though, because while I can not see the schnauzer in him at all, he looks and acts a lot like a whippet and has some lab characteristics as well. He also is very shepherd-y in his coat and some behaviors.

I hope that helps!

Thanks. I lived in Dallas for 18 years and Denton for 4. What struck me there was how many people had dogs they just left in their backyards. No walks, no love, no respite from the heat. Why own dogs in the first place?? Grr.

I hope your dad stays safe. Someone else commented that spray shield works well.

Honestly, I know you said finding a trainer isn't a realistic option - but it is the only way you are going to get real advice to help you figure this out. People on Reddit cannot see what's actually going on by a paragraph or two description of the problem. I've seen individuals read a ton of books to fix behavioral issues on their own though. It will take you a lot of research, but that's your best bet, if you don't want to find a trainer. Start here: http://www.amazon.com/Click-Calm-Healing-Aggressive-Clicker/dp/1890948209

Something like this works sooooo well you don't even know. She'll still shed but the amount of hair you can get off is amazing.

http://www.amazon.com/Mars-Veterinary-Wisdom-Panel-2-5/dp/B00U9AJB24/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

To warn you I have read that it is difficult to get a refund if you purchase through Amazon instead of the actual Wisdom Panel website. That being said though I had a great experience: I received the kit very quickly with Amazon Prime, and the results were sent to me only a week after the lab received the kit.

He could have been poorly socialized as a young dog, and the outcome is the kind of reactivity you're seeing now. Unfortunately, undoing this and building up positive things is going to take a lot of time. Some resources you might find helpful on this topic:

• Fired Up, Frantic, and Freaked Out
  
• BAT 2.0
  
• Click to Calm
  
  It's a lot of counter conditioning and desensitization. :) Building up those positive interactions and experiences.

When I visit my mom, I feed the dog through this toy. I set up an exercise pen (so the ball doesn't get lost under furniture and the food stays contained), put the kibble in the ball, set the ball to the hardest setting, and then put the ball + dog in the pen together. The dog ends up pushing the ball around and around the pen. He eats and gets a mini work out. Even though I still have to walk him, it does burn a bit of energy. For my large dog at least, I end up refilling the ball about 4 times to feed him his meal. (He eats 3 small meals instead of 2 meals a day.) The point here is that the dog will be too tired to cause trouble. This is one idea for you.

You can also try using bitter spray on your belongings so that your dog doesn't try to bite things she shouldn't be biting.

However, my best idea for you is that you consider crate training the dog. It is safe for your home, but more importantly, it is safe for your dog so that she doesn't ingest anything potentially dangerous. It keeps her protected and in a safe place where you don't have to worry about her. You can give her a bigger crate if you're concerned she needs space. There are lots of resources out there that talk about it (r/puppy101 & r/Dogtraining) and while it may take time until your dog is fully crate trained, it 1) deals with the separation anxiety, 2) protects the furniture from being destroyed, 3) protects the dog from getting hurt while alone.

I strongly recommend reading the book Cooperative Care by Deborah Jones and following along with it.

Awesome, just bought one. For those interested, you can't purchase from their website, get them here (Amazon prime).

I bought one of these and one of these. Hopefully she gets the flip board. She only likes toys that are food related so I want more enrichment for her.

I was thinking of getting her one of these treat balls for her food too.

She eats soooo fast and then she burps so I am getting worried about it! I have been trying 3x a day.

A referral to a veterinary dermatologist would be the next step to take.

Deb Jones has a book on Cooperative Care: Seven Steps to Stress-Free Husbandry and also teaches an online class at Fenzi Dog Sports Academy on cooperative care.

We use a dog hammock like [this one](Outward Hound Kyjen OH00679 Back Seat Hammock Dog Auto Travel Back Seat Pet Hammock Easy-Fit Seat Cover, Large, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MD58MA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lgiEybH0V3FGS) it's actually super convenient for multiple dogs and keeps them running around the car.

This is a simple tool and works very well. My roommate has a lab and I was surprised how effective this is (I'm used to overwhelming Newfie fluff).

I also drive a Jetta, just got another one yesterday so in an effort to keep the back seat somewhat clean, i've gotten one of These. So far it's great except for the fact that the one i got reeks of vinyl so i'm attempting to air it out for a few days. Also, this will prevent him from falling behind the front seats and generally keeps him from moving around too much. My dog is 70 pounds so there's not a whole lot of extra room for him.

I've heard Citronella spray is very effective for this purpose. With pepper spray, if you misread the wind/breeze at all, you can fairly easily end up spraying yourself and/or your dog. I'd look into that over the pepper spray personally.

Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Sprayshield-Animal-Deterrent-Spray/dp/B0009YSB9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473864179&sr=8-1&keywords=citronella+spray+dogs

I used this kit from Amazon it is $70 (Maybe different for non-prime members?). You get the kit and have two swabs to use on the cheeks, then put them back in the box and mail it off. A box and shipping label are provided. You then activate the kit online and wait. It took about 15 days from the day I sent it off to get Missy's results. I found out about the kits on this sub! I didn't know about it either. I figured it was some highly expensive technical procedure only done by a vet :P



For best results, I think you aren't suppose to let them eat/drink for 2 hours before, or go outside and possibly get other DNA in their mouths. I'd imagine you'd want to separate your dogs if you have more than one, etc.

We bought the kyjen/outward hound convertible cover from Amazon for ~$20. You can use it as a hammock, or release the front straps to use as a regular cover. It has worked great for our muddy wet puppy!

Edit for link: http://amzn.com/B000MD58MA

We used the same one for a Thanksgiving trip this year. Worked just fine for the price. Amazon link. I paid $15 with free shipping with Amazon Prime.

There's a great book about the history of dogs and one of the points the author makes is that a "problem" with breeding dogs to show is that they are primarily bred for appearance, not behavior. So your girl may be the product of several lines that are pretty but a bit lazy. :)

First, check out /r/puppy101

Otherwise great resources on youtube include: Zak George and Kikopup

Books/Resources that haven't been mentioned yet: Zak George's Dog Training ReVolution and Victoria Stillwell's Books, Blogs, and videos.

This book helped me really understand what makes my dog feel loved and what he experiences: Inside of a Dog: What Dogs See, Smell, and Know

Wow, so much bad advice here.

Just get this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/SprayShield-Animal-Deterrent-Spray-Belt/dp/B0002XKIV6 My wife used to work at an animal shelter and they used this stuff all the time. Safest way to break up a fight.

You might enjoy this book: [Inside of a Dog](Inside of a Dog: What Dogs See, Smell, and Know https://www.amazon.com/dp/1416583432/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SeV9BbGXCB905). It’s not so scientific that you’re overwhelmed but includes anecdotal info as well.

Wisdom Panel 2.5 (which is what I used) is $70 on Amazon right now! In my opinion, unless you think your dog is likely to be part or all of a really rare breed, that one is more than sufficient.

Unless it becomes a persistent problem, you don't really need to stop him from playing, but I wouldn't rile him up any further. If you're worried about him eating too fast, you can get a slow feeder. Something like this where he can't really scarf the whole lot down at once. Even if you don't think it's a problem, it can be a more engaging way for your dog to eat... works his brain a bit more.

There is section about this in the book Inside of a Dog. Basically the male dog has muscles that are designed to stop/start the flow of urine at will, and they habitually keep some 'reserve' urine for marking.

I recomend reading the whole book, it's really interesting.

https://www.amazon.com/Cooperative-Care-Seven-Stress-Free-Husbandry/dp/0578423138

This book by Deb Jones is a good resource. If you have Facebook check out the Nail Maintenance for Dogs group.

I highly recommend this book

You might be interested in the book "Click to Calm" - it's about training reactive dogs with clicker training.

On Talking Terms with Dogs: Calming Signals by Turid Rugaas

Anything by Dr. Stanley Coren

They could try investing in one of these

It helps with dogs who throw up because they ate too fast

Inside of a Dog: What Dogs See, Smell, and Know is great, not so much a how-to, but everybody with a dog should read this.

For a coat like that, all you really need is a hound glove and maybe a shedding blade

Please consider carrying Spray Shield instead.

Try Benebone. Not exactly cheap, but these bad boys last months and my dogs love them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003TU0XFU/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485328266&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dremel+minimite&dpPl=1&dpID=41pjRg6Q9LL&ref=plSrch


If you cut a dog's nails instead of filling, you risk hitting the quick (which not only bleeds, but hurts like hell and makes the dog HATE having his nails done afterwards...) but also risks cracking and splitting of the nail.
I use a Dremel, and grind the nails down. Not only do the dogs hate it much less, but you get nice round tips instead of sharp edges. No chance of cutting too short, and no risk of cracking nails.
Even better, these tools are inexpensive, easy for beginners, and well made. I've been using the same one for years now! Sanding tips are super cheap and easy to replace, too.
Good luck!

I found two listings on amazon but they both look identical (one is more expensive). Are either of these the ones you're referring to?

https://www.amazon.ca/Dremel-7300-N-MiniMite-4-8-Volt-Two-Speed/dp/B003TU0XFU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511544818&sr=8-1&keywords=dremel+7300-pt+4.8v+pet+nail+grooming+tool

https://www.amazon.ca/Dremel-7300-PT-Nail-Grooming-Kit/dp/B003TU0XG4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1511544818&sr=8-2&keywords=dremel+7300-pt+4.8v+pet+nail+grooming+tool

I’d recommend Zak George’s Dog Training Revolution It’s a book but I got the audiobook and it only takes a couple hours to get through but it tells you everything you need to know

This. Calling animal control will probably get the person fined, so they will (hopefully) keep them on a leash, or get a fence.

Also This is a great spray that won't make them attack you, or hurt them, but it will make them back off. (Plus it's only $10 so great for a budget)

I haven't and I hope I don't have to. But I bought a citronella spray off Amazon when my friend her little dog got attacked by another dog recently. https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-SprayShield-Deterrent-Citronella-Yourself/dp/B0009YSB9O/

Hello,

I got a large dog and she chews on this all day and hasn't broken it yet after 2 months of daily chewing.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CPDWT2M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Could you get some sort of slow feeder that you then put the food in and froze? That would definitely hold a full meal although he may have more difficulty moving it around.

Another option might be squishy silicone bowls assuming you aren't leaving him unattended in case he decides to chew the bowl also.

Check out Turid Rugaas's awesome book on dog body language. There is a brief discussion of what she talks about in the book here.

Check out ”When pigs fly” it’s a book written about training bull terriers. https://www.amazon.com/When-Pigs-Fly-Training-Impossible/dp/1929242441

https://www.amazon.com/When-Pigs-Fly-Training-Impossible/dp/1929242441

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00006IX59?cache=b70fcc0ef9df54f5daac849831c2c0e8&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1405882789&sr=8-2#ref=mp_s_a_1_2 this is a great start for non-rainy days! I have an indomitable pitbull, this works wonders on tiring her out!

https://www.amazon.ca/SprayShield-ANIMAL-DETERRENT-Citronella-Spray/dp/B0002XKIV6

This product worked for my golden retriever, who is also prone to ear infections.

https://www.amazon.com/Pet-King-Enzymatic-Solution-Ounces/dp/B0025YOJXS

check out the ingredients--no acids!

Here's what I have: A non-pet specific Dremel with two speeds.

Dremel 7300-N/8 MiniMite 4.8-Volt Cordless Two-Speed Rotary Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TU0XFU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_c-pXBbYTSENXG

https://www.amazon.com/Benebone-Wishbone-Durable-Aggressive-Chewers/dp/B00CPDWT2M/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=wishbone+dog+chew&qid=1563108701&s=gateway&sprefix=wishb&sr=8-3

$70 on Amazon

Goughnuts. It's a rubber shaped doughnut. If your dog destroys it they replace it for free.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0042JJB82/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_199_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=STZYTS8THAHM80WTKR7P&dpPl=1&dpID=51vS4-hICXL

I've taken to carrying citronella spray in my bait bag because I come across so many off leash tiny dogs. It doesn't physically hurt them, but they don't like it and they get out of the street and run back to their yards. https://www.amazon.com/PetSafe-Sprayshield-Animal-Deterrent-Spray/dp/B0009YSB9O

Get a ChuckIt and save your arms! Not only can you throw a ball farther, you also don't have to pick up the nasty slobbery thing.

Rub jalapenos on your face.

No wait don't do that.

Maybe Bitter Apple.

You can get this special tool on amazon, it's meant for horses but I know a lot of people who use it for their heavily shedding dogs. If you use it often it should cut the shedding down.

Safari Dual-Sided, Stainless Steel Shedding Blade https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002ARR22/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_2lf5ybB5SWPSD

If the next thing your vet gives her doesn't work, I suggest trying this Zymox ear medicine on Amazon.

I tried this on my dog after prescription ear medicine failed and it worked. My dog has allergies and it causes her to get ear infections 2-3 times a year and this medicine always clears it up quickly.

If you're no longer using the medical spray, you could try a biting/chewing deterrent. they make bitter apple spray and gel, and while it tastes absolutely disgusting, it's safe for dogs to consume. You could ask your vet if it would be okay to use this or something similar on your pups paws.

Until you can get to the root of the problem we have found that bitter apple spray works really well. All we have to do is pull out the bottle now and Punky stops chewing.

We use this one:https://www.amazon.com/Grannicks-Bitter-Apple-Bottle-Ounces/dp/B00028ZMEO/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1469185074&sr=1-1&keywords=bitter+apple+spray+for+dogs

You could try spraying things before you leave. Is crating him an option?

Honest question, how do you feel about shedding blades for medium to long coated breeds?

I use one because I've heard horror stories about furminator type de-shedding tools, but do shedding blades like the one linked damage the coat when used to remove loose fur?

Yep. Check out this book on the subject. The shelter is such a weird and stressful environment. Some dogs get wound up and hyper, some get scared and withdrawn. It can take months for your shelter dog's real personality to emerge.

My co-worker has this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TU0XFU/
It works really well, but I'm not sure how long she's had it. I have the one from your link and my battery no longer holds a charge. Useless.