(Part 3) Top products from r/ender3

I've owned the Ender 3 for a few months now and have made a number of upgrades, both purchased and printed. Here's a list of what I have purchased and printed, sorted by importance/usefulness.

 

Purchased Parts:

1. EZABL - An automatic bed leveling solution that has worked really well for me. TH3D's firmware and documentation are top notch. Once I dialed it in I've had no issues with bed leveling or adhesion. Also note, TH3D is an American company and Tim, the owner, is even a mod of this sub!
   
   
2. Stepper Motor Dampers - A great way to quiet down the printer. My bedroom and office are connected without an intervening door and the dampers allow me to print overnight and still get get to sleep. Some users have had issues with stepper motors running hot with the dampers installed, but I've had no trouble at all, even after 16+ hr prints.
   
   
3. 5015 Blower Fan - For use with the Petsfang Duct, see below.
   
   
   
4. Assorted M3 Screws - If you're going to be making mods to your printer, you're eventually going to need different sized screws. Having various lengths on hand is super helpful when trying to mount a new part.
   
    
   
   Printed Parts:
   
   
5. Filament Guide Arm - This has helped a lot with keeping the filament feeding smooth and preventing under-extrusion issues. There is a more popular model on thingiverse, but I found this version to be stronger and more stable.
   
   
6. Petsfang Cooling Fan Duct - An extremely popular replacement for the part cooling duct and fan. This creates much more even cooling around the filament as its extruded, providing better bridging and better overall print quality. There is a version using a replacement 5015 blower fan, as I have used, and there's a version called the "Bullseye" that uses the stock fan. I chose to replace the stock fan because mine was starting to rattle.
   
   
7. Tool Holder - It sounds frivolous, but having the tools you need right at hand can be a big help in saving a print or performing trouble shooting. Definitely a must have.
   
   
8. LCD Rear Cover - Protects the circuit board behind the LCD, which is exposed from the factory. If you have children like I do, this is a must.
   
   
9. Cable Chain - Routs the various cables to their destinations in a clean way. Looks super cool. Not necessary, but definitely fun. Note, there is an X-axis cable chain setup available, but I found it made excessive noise and wasn't worth the trouble.
   
   
10. Fan Shroud - Protects the main board fan from bits of filament falling down into the casing.
    
    
11. Storage Drawer - A handy little drawer that slides in next to the LCD. I store things like alcohol swabs, razor blades, and other random tools in it.
    
     
    
    Future Upgrades:
    
    Spool Roller - One issue I've found is that the stock spool holder requires excessive force from the extruder to unwind filament. A replacement spool roller with bearings should reduce the friction significantly and produce more even extrusion.
    
    Metal Extruder - A common problem with the Ender 3 is that it fails to maintain proper tension on the extruder gear, which leads to failure to feed and poor extrusion. An all-metal extruder has been known to fix the issue.
    
    
    
    
    
    

Did you assemble using the instructions that came with the printer? Because then chances are most things need to be tweaked. I suggest looking through this build video and checking if everything is in order. I mean, maybe you instinctively put it all together right, but more likely is that some things aren't squared right, the frame is poorly produced(hence the low price of the printer), so it needs actual effort to get it all built right.

​

The first thing you should do when you are done with all building is calibrate your extruder motor. This basically means making sure that when you tell the printer to move your filament 100mm, it also moves it 100mm. Most likely it isn't calibrated right, I don't think I ever heard of an Ender 3 that came with a proper calibrated extruder right out of the box. You also do need to do the flow calibration in that same link, and for that you will need digital calipers.

​

As for the nozzle, no, you don't need to clean it out before every print. You only need to actively clean it out if you change to a different colour or different type of filament, and you just do that by running the new filament through until the colour is stable, then the new filament has purged the old.

The small "tool" is actually an acupuncture needle :D When that gets lost/bent/worn, don't fall into the hoax of buying "real 3D printer cleaner tools", just buy a pack of 0.35 or 0.4 acupuncture needles. The function of it is if you get a clot that clogs up your nozzle, if it isn't a bad clog, you can just puncture it with the acupuncture needle and run some filament through by hand to clear the nozzle.

Isopropyl is great for some bed surfaces, not so much for others. The Creality glass bed or a PEI sheet both benefit vastly from isopropyl, but the stock Ender 3 bed with the rough feeling surface doesn't need that much cleaning(it also doesn't last long, consider what you want your next bed to be).

Stuff like regular window or frame glass needs an adhesive like hairspray or glue stick, so wiping those with isopropyl before every print would be outright wrong as that actively removes adhesive.

​

If you're not gonna do anything else for now, go through this checklist:

• Are the wheels tensioned right?
  
• Are the belts tight?
  
• Is my extruder calibrated?
  
  ​
  
  Consider getting stronger bed springs as the stock ones are beyond terrible. And when your printer prints right, print an LCD back cover and fan guard - those two are essential to printer health

Get the Pro version. The magnetic print bed is nice. I finally got my Tornado working again last night and I'd forgotten that, "Is the first layer going to stick?", moments. Very reliable as long as you wait for the bed to cool before you put it back on. Plus, any time you upgrade the power supply is always a good thing.

BLTouch for automatic bed leveling. You'll also need an Arduino Zero to flash a boot loader to upgrade your software. Biggest negative to the Ender 3 is that they don't do that from the factory. I got this and I'll find out this weekend if it was worth it. Really don't want to wire up a breadboard to do this.

Get lots of filament from various brands. Stick with PLA or PLA+ to start as it's easier to get good prints. I have about 15 spools on my rack right now. Use a lot of Solutech (hit or miss on color quality) and really like the Amolen and Polyalchemy filaments, but they are pricey. You can get the Amolen in 200g spools to try them out. They print beautifully.

Go to Thingiverse and start planning what you want to print. You'll get a lot of ideas there. Keep reading here and r/3dprinting. You'll find a lot to do.

Good luck, and have fun!

Here’s a 24v 40mm x40mm x 20mm fan. Twice as thick as stock, but quieter, while moving more air. Just be sure to match polarity on the wires and ignore the signal wire (white). This will replace the heatsink fan.

https://www.amazon.com/SUNON-MB40202V2-0000-A99-Fan-Vapo-Size/dp/B0084ZNAU0

For filament cooling, it’s pretty much going to be louder no matter what, but I suggest a petsfang or hero me duct for a 24v 5015 fan. The fan is much more powerful, so you can drop it to 60% cooling in your slicer and it will still be quieter Than stock while cooling better.

I use these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B079BPS9Q8

Cheap, but you get a 4 pack, so if you have trouble, swap them out.

I also suggest wiring these in to simplify swapping fans - just simple solder, heatshrink, plug and go.

It may seem daunting, but it really is simple, and it makes it vastly easier in the long run.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01HHY9ZJS

Pay extra close attention to polarity on the yellow/blue wire stock fan replacement so you don’t blow anything.

> That said I'm sure there are literally hundreds of ways to safely make that connection.

With properly soldered XT-60's being one of them. The only people who need to do anything are ones that got the shitty crimped connectors.
I wish it was easier to see from the outside which ones the machine has, as right now a lot of people are skipping straight to "XT-60 == BAD".

And to /u/magiccak, while replacing the wire with a solid run would be better, your installation is perfectly fine. If you want to remove one more possible hazard, get a set of wire ferrules and the crimping tool and do all the wires going to screw terminals. Something like this, important part being that it can do 24 to 16AWG, though you can easily 'cheat' at the smaller end by doubling the wire on itself, so 22AWG might be enough.

Those couplers are trash and so is the PTFE tube they sent. They may work for a while but you'll want to swap them sooner rather than later. Here's a list of upgrades you'll probably want to do. You'll also want to look up a tutorial on how to upgrade your firmware so you can activate safety features (thermal runaway protection specifically). This also doesn't include a BLTouch or EZABL (auto bed levelers) as I have yet to make a choice personally.

Couplers and Tube:
SIQUK 3 Pieces Teflon Tube PTFE... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FPJHRTQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Metal Extruder: ( original plastic one will wear out or break)
Ender 3 Creality 3D Upgrade... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KSS8FRQ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Bed Springs: (more than needed but oh well)
SIQUK 16 Pieces Heated Bed... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K9PBML5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Glass Bed: (goes on top of print bed which is usually warped, printing on an uneven surface not so bueno)
Creality Upgraded 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DS2LZF1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Raspberry Pi 3B+ for OctoPrint: (still need microsd card for it I believe)
CanaKit Raspberry Pi 3 B+ (B... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BC6WH7V?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Stepper Motor Dampers: (silences the motors, no more sounding like dial up internet lol will need to print mounts from thingiverse)
Upgraded NEMA 17 Stepper Steel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DNT72SF?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Heat Sinks For Stepper Motors: (once stepper motors have dampers and aren't attached to the metal frame, they can get a little hot)
40mmx40mmx10mm Black Radiator... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KWVGGGK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Hot end silicone sleeve: (may not need, mine came with one instead of the old insulation)
Creality Original 3D Printer... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HNXJ39T?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Extra Filament: (ender 3 only comes with a small sample "spool", this is just a brand I use and have had decent results with. The metallic silver hue shows off detail well)
3D Printer PLA Filament 1.75MM... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ME7YUIU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

LOTS O EDITS

Way to effing many. Super frustrated with the Ender 3. I was not looking for this much frustration when I started my new hobby.

Incoming Rant:

1. The hex screws. So easy to strip, even with the supplied hex keys. Let me repeat this: SO EFFING EASY TO STRIP. I had to use a dremel to cut notches in them to actually get them to tighten, or to loosen to install the steppers. (which are really nice btw)
   
   
2. Very VERY Finecky with filament. See Below.
   
   I have a lot of good luck with Gizmodorks filament. The orange one is great. But the other various colors I got I am having issues with. (Too thin laying down??)
   
   I also bought a thing of Hatchbox And the first roll was fine but this second roll is just not working. I wondering if the filament is too big somehow.
   
   I also bought this from Th3dstudio's... and I still can not get it to work properly. I followed the instructions, and it is like it is not detecting the sensor at all, when I try to run the auto home it tries to go through my bed...So I will be trying to get it to work again during the x-mas holidays.
   

Cool thanks. I had pretty much settled on not doing the metal extruder just yet. I'll go side spool until I can get either a guide printed and feel comfortable putting the metal one on. I wish I had the damn springs but once again, slow boat from China with the glass bed.

I didn't get the Capricorn tubing. Just some cheap tubing (looks the same as the stock stuff) but came with what I assume to be nicer couplings. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FS2Y148/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_m7yQCbMD4J49V

I'll go with just the couplers for now. I'm taking my time with the build. A lot of the instruction is, by nature, inexact...but hopefully taking my time will lead to a good result.

I actually meant to include that, I'm sorry. I bought the sample packs from Gizmo Dorks on Amazon.

Here's the one that includes the "orange":

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074W1XFRX

They all seem to print pretty well, and I like the colors. They're also a pretty affordable way to get a variety of colors. I also have their packs with the black, clear, grey, and white, and another with marble, glitter, glow in the dark, and color changing. I've been meaning to see if the make one with the cool metallic silk colors...

Have a look at the bulldog extruder. It has a much higher clamping force on the filament. It does require you to have Marlin or T3HD firmware installed.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FDSHVCN/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It just works. There are a few gotchas that can be quickly resolved.

• The extruder turns in the opposite direction. It is nice that it removes the need for filament guides, but it does require you to modify configuration.h in the firmware. Toggle INVERT_E0_DIR
  
  
• Get a M3 bolt package. You will need at least 4 that are 16mm long. I bought this kit https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0714FLXND/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 as I am sure I will use them at some point.
  
  
• Prevent filament from getting wound in the extruder. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3121836
  This should also allow you to easily print TPU
  
  
• Replace the cabling attachment. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3243464

If you want a few rolls of different colors this is a pretty good deal, 23 bucks for 4 colors... Downside is you get 800g instead of 1000g for the money. Still good if you want multiple colors without breaking the bank 👍 I've had real good luck with this brand

Gizmo Dorks PLA Filament for 3D Printers 1.75mm 200g, 4 Color Pack - Blue, Green, Orange, Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074W1XFRX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AbKjDbY1A0WKD

Yes of course :)

Black PLA:
• HATCHBOX PLA 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 1 kg Spool, 1.75 mm, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J0ECR5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-Nn0Db9E2TV4N
•OVERTURE PLA Filament 1.75mm with 3D Build Surface 200mm × 200mm 3D Printer Consumables, 1kg Spool (2.2lbs), Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.05 mm, Fit Most FDM Printer, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PGY2JP1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_yPn0DbA5MFBZS


White PLA:
•HATCHBOX PLA 3D Printer Filament, Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.03 mm, 1 kg Spool, 1.75 mm, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J0GMMP6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IOn0Db4BZ8QWH
•OVERTURE PLA Filament 1.75mm with 3D Build Surface 200mm × 200mm 3D Printer Consumables, 1kg Spool (2.2lbs), Dimensional Accuracy +/- 0.05 mm, Fit Most FDM Printer, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PGZNM34/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LRn0Db62EBRN2

I had the same question when looking. I decided the only different would be support. I am not one to use support so I shopped price. I tend to believe if it works out of the box it is OK if not then Amazon will take it back. I bought this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JJNX135/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It was package like all the Creality Youtube Video, all the instruction were from Creality.
I could not be happier will this printer.

I haven't seen these mentioned in this sub before, but I ordered a couple Gizmo Dorks packs from Amazon when I first got my Ender 3 Pro:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074W1XFRX?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074W2TNKB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

It's a little more expensive by weight, but it's a good way to get a bunch of different colors.

I like the magnet surface that comes with the pro, I haven't had any issues with parts sticking.

I also ordered the aluminum kit you did, and I also ordered some replacement springs for the bed. I'm planning on installing them this weekend.

So I’ve found this on amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Gwisdom-Extruder-Upgraded-Replacement-Extruders/dp/B07FKD4FZD

Is there a more official one? Want an aluminum replacement, but can anyone recommend a good brand?

This is way over expectation, and i think I've been lucky with the Ender 3 i got.
But i'm sure the assembly+bed leveling, profile setting+support, and .stl file used played a big role also.

Everything is link below.

The profile in the download dont have the support in it, you need to copy it manually from the second video.

No upgrade except the glass bed, and the self printed filament guide, chain, clip and fan cover.


https://imgur.com/a/F8okUSc

How To Print Resin-Like FDM Minis on $200+ 3D Printers (Printing The Game #3)

3D Printed Tabletop

https://youtu.be/qDW7g3JOqLA


EASIER Support Settings for 3D Printed Miniatures (Printing The Game #11)

3D Printed Tabletop

https://youtu.be/QaE7YPvh4E8?t=67


Printed Obsession

https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-85806

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/printedobsession/hell-hath-no-fury-3d-printable-table-top-miniature/


Creality Ender 3 assembly and pro build tips

Tomb of 3D Printed Horrors

https://youtu.be/me8Qrwh907Q


HATCHBOX 3D PLA-1KG1.75-WHT
https://www.hatchbox3d.com/collections/pla/products/3d-pla-1kg1-75-wht

235mm x 235mm Borosilicate Glass Plate for Creality Ender 3 3D Printer
by GO-3D PRINT
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07D6J92KB/ref=pe_3034960_236394800_TE_dp_1

Filament Guard
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2917932

Cable Chain
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2920060

Board fan guard
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2935204

Display Ribbon Cable Clip
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2880021

I bought my Ender 3 Pro last week from this seller:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07JVH629F/

(make sure you clip the $35 coupon to bring it down to $224)

I also bought this extruder kit which comes with the bed springs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07VQPSTFD/

And I got these PTFE fittings because the ones that come with the printer and that extruder are dogshit:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FS2Y148/

Then throw in a roll of your favorite color of Hatchbox PLA for $20 and you should be good to rock-and/or-roll.

It you take your time and have good lighting and small needle nose pliers it isn't too frustrating. I bought crimp tips for the bare wires to make them more secure when tightened down and guarantee that a little wire strand wouldn't short anything.

Ferrule Crimping Tool Kit - Sopoby Ferrule Crimper Plier w/ 1200pcs Wire Ferrules Wire Ends Terminals AWG 28-7 (0.08-10mm²) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K17VDF2/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apap_rCPfFrGuOHN1Y

ok, i think i get you now....

I have used this thermistor
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B3W8XQ4/

These are the style the stock one is
https://smile.amazon.com/Printer-Thermistor-Nozzle-Creality-Eewolf/dp/B07BBKWZ5K/

In octoprint you can enable the log, then watch the 1 second interval output from it to see how it is doing second to second and see the fluctuations in the temp that you wont see on the stock display....

All that said, here is the relevant comment.... I originally wondered about the accuracy of the stock thermistor...so i tried to measure the temperature with an IR thermometer.... my readings were way under what the display said it was...way == 20 degrees or so...... i also have a Fluke multimeter with a calibrated thermal couple used for doing HVAC work...so i put that on the hot end next to the built in thermistor and taped it on with kapton tape under the sock... the result was within 3 degrees of what the display read..... all the time watching the octoprint logs

Next i switched to the screw in type from above and retested.... the temperature readings bounced around more.... my theory is the screw in type is more sensitive because it is actually in firm physical contact verse just touching and held in place.....

I just got some high temp anti-sieze compound a couple of days ago and plan test this weekend and see if it will act like heatsink compound..it is nonconductive and has the right consistency...good to 2700f... if it works i think it will increase the sensitivity of the thermistor by making better thermal contact with the heater block..

screw set.

Probably could use either. The recommended ones fit right into the heat sink fan, another set might sit over the fan and need to be a little longer?
Above is a simple kit.

take that spring out, get a couple of pliers on each end and pull it to stretch it out, then put the spring back. you will have added more tension to this and allowed it to compress the filament as it moves through. quick and easy fix but getting a better spring and/or replacing the cheap extruder parts is recommended: https://www.amazon.com/Gwisdom-Extruder-Upgraded-Replacement-Extruders/dp/B07FKD4FZD

The lead screw is brand new so I'm sure it's not dirty. I managed to get it to print without major z issues by putting the z stepper into spread cycle mode which can power through the binding but I still have some weird horizontal noise in the print like several layers combining or something.

​

I've been using Super Lube with PTFE (This stuff to be precise). My gantry will drop on its own until it gets about halfway through so I think I may be almost there.

This is what bought for the hero.

WINSINN Blower Fan 24V 50mm... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079BPS9Q8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Slicer Program: Cura 3.5.1

Filament: PLA Hatchbox Grey 1.75mm

Nozzle: Stock nozzle which I think is .4mm?

Supports: I used the Cura supports for this one, I might print another one and test how the Meshmixer supports work, but these images are right after I removed the supports and no sanding/filing has been done yet.

Misc:
-Printed at a 15 degree angle facing upwards to avoid any marks on the front of it

-Profile I found from this video, where he goes over the profile.
-Here is the link to the profile downloads if anyone wanted.

Edit: switch temps around

• Bed plate temp: 60
  
• Extruder temp: 200
  
  
  As for any upgrades, all I’ve done so far is a fan cover so stuff doesn’t fall into it and a filament guide, otherwise everything else is factory default

I have the exact glass bed. It's great! just be careful using a metal spatula on it, I accidentally left a few scratch marks on mine.

I also bought some of these and put one on the underside in case I want to use the textured bed.

https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Original-Replacement-3D-235X235MM/dp/B07FCBCS9K/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1QMLEI33P3KGL&keywords=ender+3+replacement+bed&qid=1568821453&s=gateway&sprefix=ender+3+repl%2Caps%2C146&sr=8-4

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PNEQ79Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ANMFDbTMYV3KF

It will work perfectly for a 3:1 direct drive setup.

I chose the pro due to the Meanwell power supply and have applied the following mods or printed parts:

Marlin Stock 1.1.9

KIS3R33S step down converter (to power Raspberry Pi from Ender PSU) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/USB-KIS3R33S-7V-24V-to-5V-3A-DC-DC-Step-Down-Power-Supply-module-RED-/161780779075?txnId=1778699508006

12V 24V to 5V USB dongle housing https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:806285

XT60 parallel connector https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B07BMPKGM6

Hotend Silicone Sock https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B07JMMJ51W

Aluminium Extruder drive https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B07BBPFFVD

Raspberry Pi case (Raspberry Pi 3B for Octoprint) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3075921

Heated Glass Bed https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B07DSC9TJQ - I kept the magnetic base in place though so I can switch between glass and this one which seems to be better than the stock one https://www.amazon.co.uk/Comgrow-Cmagnet-Surface-Creality-Ender-3X/dp/B07H88QCY9

French Style frameless clips https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01M7408WJ

Levelling Springs Upgrade (stiffer than stock) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-STOCK-4pcs-creality-CR-10-cr-10s-ender-3-ender-3-upgraded-flat-spring-/401627349776?txnId=738973658027

Genuine BLTouch https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0748FJ48N

Clip-on LED strip (plugged into Raspberry Pi USB) https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B01M0JAYHG

Petsfang v2 with BLTouch mount left (had the bullseye previously) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2759439

5015 Fan (for Petsfang v2) https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B079BPS9Q8

ENDER-3 BED HANDLE https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2957507

Camera holder (used an old Mobius cam I had) https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2886101

Ender-3 CR10 Tools holders
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2886395

MK8 extruder cable clip https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3007042

Ender3 pressure fittings fix https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2994683

Cable clips https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2960375

Cable clip https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2949858

Filament guide https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2896612

Extruder knob https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3109769

LCD/PCB cover with original screws https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2858209

Extruder Nozzles different sizes https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B076DYCSQB

I just got my ender in Feb so I haven't really hammered it with anything I just got on my second spool last week my first spool was hatchbox then I grabbed some of the amazon basics stuff (my roll was garbage) so I decided to give CHEP's Filament a try and it prints as good as the hatchbox spool I had if not better

Like this? https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Original-Replacement-3D-235X235MM/dp/B07FCBCS9K?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-d-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B07FCBCS9K

Edit: Wait that's just a sticker.

Edit 2: here's a kit https://www.creality3donline.com/creality-3d-printer-removable-platform-hot-heated-bed-build-surface-sticker-fiber-board-for-ender-3-cr-20-235x235x3mm_p0099.html

Here's the pancake stepper I use. It works well and was only $10 on Amazon Prime:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PNEQ79Q/

For the PTFE oil would this work?

Super Lube 51004 Synthetic Oil with PTFE, High Viscosity, 4 oz Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000UKUHXK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WRiODb91FT492

To balance I’m using a sticker consistency for resistance. I will attempt to raise the bed closer

Appreciate the detailed feedback

Yes they are. It cuts out different noises. It is significant. Much less high pitch whine during movements, essentially none.

You need the new steppers because otherwise you will need to print adapters for the old stepper motors with press fit pulleys to fit. There are some good ones to make the press-fit work for the Y axis, but the ones for X axis are not good.

I got this stepper: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0787BQ4WH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wWjQDbECAWXF1

That was my experience too. This worked well for me https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FKD4FZD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just a heads up, the Ender 3 Pro is only $10 more on amazon right now,
https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Printer-Meanwell-Removable-Cmagnet/dp/B07JJNX135/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=ender+3+pro&qid=1574004237&sr=8-5

This lube, OIL not grease, 4 ounces which should be enough to last a lifetime. ;)

https://www.amazon.com/Super-Lube-51004-Synthetic-Viscosity/dp/B000UKUHXK

The stepper motor, not the stepper motor driver. The Nema 17 stepper motor is probably cooked, by the sounds of your troubleshooting results.

https://www.amazon.ca/Nema17-Stepper-42BYGH-17HS4401S-Printer/dp/B0787BQ4WH

I got that one. It's a direct plug in replacement for whats on the Ender3.

https://smile.amazon.com/SainSmart-Creality-Ender-3-Printer-Printing/dp/B07DGV2L8Z/

$195 sainsmart non Amazon now,

https://smile.amazon.com/Creality-Economic-Printing-Function-220x220x250MM/dp/B07CGMN3XF/

$167 for the creality

This kit comes with the firmware already loaded specifically for 3d printers. It also has a snapshot feature so you can save your current firmware and no bootloader is even needed. BUT, with this kit you can also add a bootloader. 3 birds with one stone.
https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Burn-Bootloader-Kit-Instructions/dp/B07HHGVQXK

I could be wrong about the stock extruder specs, but I believe it's right around 42 Ncm. The BMG is a 3:1 gear ratio, so you're getting 3x torque output at the filament at the cost of the stepper running at 3x speed. 42/3=14 Ncm, so anything around that will give you about the same torque as the stock setup. That being said, I picked up a 13 Ncm pancake stepper for my direct drive setup which is working well for me, albeit running a bit too hot for my tastes. This one specifically. You could likely find something similar on eBay or Amazon.ca that would match that.

https://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-Creality-Ender-3-Printer-Printing/dp/B07DGV2L8Z/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=3d+printer+prime+day+deals&qid=1563216765&s=gateway&smid=A1KWJVS57NX03I&sr=8-5

Buy these and swap em in.

Less bed wobble, less leveling in the long term.

https://www.amazon.com/HATCHBOX-3D-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B00J0ECR5I/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2B2P5SB0R7B5R&keywords=hatchbox+pla+1.75&qid=1573968481&sprefix=hatchbox%2Caps%2C160&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/HATCHBOX-3D-Filament-Dimensional-Accuracy/dp/B00J0GMMP6/ref=sr_1_7?crid=2B2P5SB0R7B5R&keywords=hatchbox+pla+1.75&qid=1573968517&sprefix=hatchbox%2Caps%2C160&sr=8-7

​

Would either of these work?

This is what I got:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B015I1CYFE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I believe this one? https://www.amazon.com/Creality-3D-Printer-Separate-Package/dp/B07BF8KXW3

Try this. It removes the headache of wiring an Arduino and you can also back up firmware.

Creality 3D Printer Part Limit Switch With Separate Package CNC for RAMPS 1.4 RepRap 3D Printer CR-10 10S,S4 ,S5 (Pack of 3) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07BF8KXW3/

ZIRO 3d Marble Filament https://www.amazon.com/ZIRO-Printer-Filament-1-75mm-Marble/dp/B01IIAC2MW/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=marble+filament&qid=1563198549&s=gateway&sr=8-3

borosilicate glass bed and double sided silicon thermal pads., never look back.

I still have some bed level adjustments to do, but I think the center is spot on.

SainSmart x Creality Ender-3

• Model: #3DBenchy
  
• Slicer: Cura 4.0
  
• Layer: 0.1mm
  
• Infill: 10%
  
• Nozzle: 220 °C
  
• Bed: 60 °C
  
• Filament: Inland 1.75mm White PLA
  
  ​

I should probably do this regardless for my X, Z, and extruder motors but I upgraded the Y motor to one of these and am not entirely sure what the voltage should be for it. Spec sheet says 3.6, which seems insanely high if the stock X and Z motors should be at 0.94... Right now, everything seems to be working correctly but I still get the same layer shift issue as OP if I print above 50mm/s.

Also if you’re going to be doing major hotend changes I highly recommend this thermistor. It screws into heatblock where the screw now holds the fragile wires for glass thermistor that just hangs inside a hole. This one comes with a new cable and can be unplugged and is also much more rugged. It requires just one change in the firmware and instructions are listed on their website, and firmware changes will probably need to be done anyways to be able to set higher max temps. [Gulfcoast Robotics] M3 Stud Screw-In thermistor 100K NTC 3950 - drop in replacement, works for any China 3D Printer extruders - Anet, Wanhao, Maker Select etc. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B3W8XQ4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ep.2DbEYPC4VW

I used this one, a few reviews mentioned having trouble with it jamming and such. I printed it hotter than normal (220c) which is maybe why I didn't have any problems.

Not in particular but this is what I'm using right now with no issue: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FS2Y148/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_PgLUDbR1BS1HN

Hmm, I guess it does not. Sorry about that. I did a little more searching and found https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BF8KXW3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-1e4CbGSD477R this one had some comments that people used it on an ender 3. Doesn’t come with cables though :(

Here's the rant

The fix, use Cura's "Pause at Height" plug-in, but after changing the filament home the printer before hitting resume.

No where does it say to do this, and in none of the tutorial videos does it say to do this. So simple, but no where is this ever mentioned or shown.


STL

• Pokemon Team Badges STL
  
  Printer
  
  
• Ender 3 Pro
  
• Borosilicate glass bed
  
• SeemCNC EZR Struder
  
• for printing tpu on a bowden type 3d printer
  
• 0.8mm Nozzle
  
  Filament
  
  
• AmazonBasics White TPU(no longer available)
  
• SainSmart Blue TPU