(Part 2) Top products from r/fordranger

I got a 90. Change your brakes, rotors, bearings, calipers. Definitely worth the $200 for the braking power. Replace the back brakes too, probably discs. Make sure the front end is good. Specially the ball joints and control arms. Rebuild if needed. The AC I'm stuck too, I'll probably take some tax return money to fix it, but not soon. Get some Sylvania headlights 9004 currently about $30 on Amazon. They'll do you right with a cleaning of the panels. Good luck man !

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000M5UD1E/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3DL5LLVLWRT0V&coliid=I2ILBM07AFUFUE&psc=1

The reason I mention paste is that it deals with the temps, which I don't think JB weld would do. I've used something like this before with good success: Muffler Paste

It goes on like a paste, and cooks on there. Probably two years and counting for me. Notice JB weld makes a similar product at the bottom of the page too.

Wow three inches! My shocks have 90k on them I probably wouldn't see that much haha. I'm not really after suspension lift in the rear, I've been thinking I would level it with a t-bar crank and then get a body lift later on. I like the idea of more load support. How is the ride?

Are these the ones you got?

http://www.amazon.com/Monroe-58617-Sensa-Trac-Adjusting-Absorber/dp/B000C53RXK/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

I have these and I think they are the best. They've held up perfectly for going on 3 years now. I found them on ebay being sold by a Ford dealer in ohio that had back stock. Amazon has them sometimes too.

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-6L5Z-1313300-A-Floor-Mat/dp/B000LPPXTC

Ya I just used the bumper bracket hole that was almost directly above the hole for the 4.5" light. Its not perfectly centered so you have to drill the hole slightly to one side but standard angle metal will fit. The flood lights I got are top mounted so I drilled a hole on one side of the angle for the bracket bolt and one on the other side for the light. If you use aluminum angle you will get galvanic corrosion from the steel touching it so you need a rubber gasket.

Also, I got a generic wiring harness from O'Reilly's and snuck it through the fender and dash trim so I could velcro the switch to my steering column. I soldered the wires for the lights and if you have a soldering iron it's not hard. Worst case you use crimp fittings.

I got something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07V52K41R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ovGWDb718KQ88

I got this replacement PCV elbow and a replacement grommet earlier this year. Install was pretty quick, but there's not a lot of clearance by the firewall, so I had to bend the new tube to get it into place.

It's not a whole lot cheaper than your dealer, but I hope it helps!

I have these on my 93 and I like them. The top section is very snug, the bottom section is pretty good though it fits somewhat awkwardly around the side due to the seat controls. It has a little foam bar that you stuff between the top and bottom sections of the seat so the cover stays stuffed in there.

It depends on what you are looking for or what kind of power you are putting through the speakers.

If you are running the factory head unit, any severely upgraded speakers may be overkill or not offer much of an improvement, thusly; installing expensive speakers will be overkill

If you just want to fix it and put something in that sounds better than factory; These Pyle PL683BL speakers are excellent stock replacements

Pyle has consistently made decent speakers at extremely reasonable prices, their amplifiers are also very underrated in almost every benchmark that is tossed at them. I just put a set of 6.5 inch Pyle Blue label speakers in my Honda and was absolutely blown away by how good they are, I usually use Alpine speakers that cost 3-4x what these cost.

For that price you could do all 4 speakers for $50, but if you are just trying to fix a blown out speaker, you can just replace the rear pair and leave the fronts alone.

Even if you have a decent aftermarket headunit, the Pyles can easily handle 50 watts RMS, which is what most mid-range head units are rated at, so you are future proofing yourself by upgrading to all 4 of these and later buying a radio headunit.

Or pick up an EEC-IV reader on amazon for $25. Definitely worth it if he plans on keeping the truck.

I just put one of these (using this and this) in my '95 and love it so far.

Since you are looking w/ coil springs I am assuming you are 2WD?

May I make a suggestion - for not much more money you can replace everything with quality MOOG parts for not much more than what you're looking at in just replacement ball joints.

MOOG replacement control arm/ball joint assemblies:

Part #RK80052 Front Right Upper; RWD; Front Coil springs
$47.70
http://www.amazon.com/Moog-RK80052-Control-Joint-Assembly/dp/B007ZLN4YG


Part #RK80054 Control Arm/Ball Joint Assembly Front Left Upper; RWD; Front Coil springs
$47.72
http://www.amazon.com/Moog-RK80054-Control-Joint-Assembly/dp/B007ZLN5LS.

For the lowers:
MOOG K8771T Lower Ball Joint Kit
$32.88 (x2)
http://www.amazon.com/Moog-K8771T-Lower-Ball-Joint/dp/B000C5A044.


I did not even research the best prices and this is what I came up. So for a huge upgrade in part quality you are looking at a total of ~$161.18

Special cams need to be installed on the UPPER control arms. They take the place of the bolts and shims that are already there.

This is the kit I bought - comes with 4 bolts, 2 for each side of the truck.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CB755A?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

moog camber adj bolts they work well
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C59Z68/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm 5'8 and it fits tight. I basically have to extend my leg almost fully to get the clutch all the way to the floor without having it hit in gears 2/4/R. A little big, but if your 5'9 or above it should work fine. You can also remove the cup holders and replace it with a basket of some sort to make it smaller on the extension and have your seat closer to the dash. Not a perfect solution but a cheap/effective one.

Rampage Jeep 39223 Charcoal Truck Bench Seat Console https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000GQA8DC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_e77MybV7CEX4J

Edit: as for sliding its fairly solid except on the hardest of turns and brakes. I have vinyl seats.

'02 3.0 Auto here, same symptoms, crazy needle at idle after its warmed up, fine when driving. I replaced the sender which was harder than you'd think, it needs a non-standard size socket with a recess for the plug. It's also in a difficult spot to see/access, back of the engine, passenger side. You need to look straight down in the right spot to see it.

Still have the crazy needle. Hoping an oil change will clear it up. I've read a faulty cam synchronizer can also cause these symptoms.

https://www.amazon.com/Allison-67-1917GRY-Diamond-Split-Truck/dp/B000IG3JJA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=60%2F40+split+truck+seat+covers&qid=1554532477&s=gateway&sr=8-3 this is the same pattern ive got but im not seeing the ones from the seller i bought from anymore they had a whole bunch of different styles and were cheaper im guessing from china. it was a while back when i bought mine. $40 is still a heck of a lot cheaper than the ones that are vehicle specific

The fuel pump/sender assembly?

https://www.amazon.ca/Spectra-Premium-SP333H-Assembly-Sending/dp/B000C7S5IA/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=ranger+fuel+pump&qid=1556108548&s=gateway&sr=8-7

Here is a picture of what I have as my setup, I will add a link to the shocks I used for the lift. https://imgur.com/URS8oX7

Here is the link on amazon to the shocks I used:
http://www.amazon.com/Monroe-58568-Sensa-Trac-Adjusting-Absorber/dp/B000C53RQ2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00

I went onto monroes website and found the lengths that I needed. Note; this will only work on 2wd with torsion...

Dorman 47016 Coolant Service Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000DCO58S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_53RXAbGW2WSV5

The heater hose is a high point coolant system. The trick is to remove air binding in cylinder head. Install add coolant slowly venting from splice. Stand on bumper to see if you can shake the bubbles out. Carry water with and every time you drive and return to truck. If not cool..put a heavy bath towel over rad cap !!WARNING HOT COOLANT WILL SPRAY UP IN YOUR FACE!! Hence heavy towel. So make sure it is somewhat cool! Put rad-cap in center of towel open cap vent a bit at a time till no pressure spurts out under bath towel. ad coolant. Repeat as air moves to upper volume of radiator over course of week.

A pin hole leak may be in your heater core and you’ll need to stay ahead of it each week monitoring coolant in rad and htr core splice. Replacing htr core is a laborious task.