(Part 3) Top products from r/guns

I typically clean my guns after any range trip, but I am not as OCD about it as I was trained to be.

One thing I do always use is some form of a CLP. I like using something like that because if I leave a little behind in some hard-to-clean area of the gun, it will still provide an oil-like protective film. I cringe when I hear people use something like brake cleaner on their guns to de-grease them. If they miss a spot oiling/lubing afterward they have left bare metal exposed - pretty much guaranteed to rust.

Break-Free - was always a good stand by.

Tri-Flow - is similar to Break Free, I just seem to like it better (once heard it was created by one of the two original Break Free partners after their split. Not sure of the validity of that story.).

Strike Hold - This is just the best of the bunch. It does all it is supposed to: penetrates well, makes it easy to clean the gun, and it provides stellar protection after wiping it all down when finishing up. You could use just this and do well for your guns.

Ballistol - no long-term assessment yet. I seem to still reach right past the Ballistol can and grab the Strike Hold spray bottle. I suppose one of these days I will have to make a serious attempt at learning for myself if this is the way to go.

The Smith & Wesson M&P9 is the best overall pistol currently available in my opinion. It had zero gun-caused malfunctions in a 2010 ATF test. And yet it's still very reasonably priced at around $450. This website will help you shop for them online (if you order it online, you'll need to find a local FFL dealer for them to deliver it to and pay a transfer fee). Any Federal HST cartridge should perform well in it. Since that ammo is hard to find, this website will help you find it in stock online (and yes, ordering ammo over the internet and getting it shipped directly to your home is perfectly legal). Here's my favorite inside the waistband holster. And here's my favorite outside the waistband holster. I recommend buying this hearing protection and this hearing protection (yes, you should wear both at the same time. And yes, you'll still be able to hear everything perfectly fine if you put the volume on maximum). Here's the safety glasses that I recommend. And here's the lubrication that I recommend.

Open carry is legal in Virginia. You don't need a permit. You do need a permit to carry concealed.

Totally agree, wish they had come with the stocks like that from the factory. Laminate stocks are similar to regular walnut/hardwood stocks (just thin layers appoxied/resined together forming an overall stronger bond and stock) I installed mine fairly easily just make sure your pre-drill your holes correctly and measure twice.
There are a lot of resources on youtube

Find the one that best suits you

Its all totally doable yourself but if you feel uncomfortable you could always have a gunsmith do it (but if I could do it myself without messing anything up you should be able to as well) If your rifle has a barrel band (I dont believe your model does) they make adapters to attach to it so you wouldn't have to drill the fore-end. Uncle Mike's are great products and thats what I used but there are other good brands, make and models as well, hard to go wrong with swivel studs. Also if you drill in the forward stud it would give you the option to use a swivel stud bipod

Good luck and enjoy the awesome rifle!

When you are going into printed literature, it is best to go for a specialized subject.

There are a lot of books that want to cover everything, but most of them are pretty bad.

One cover-everything book that I do like is How Weapons Work. But that it mostly because I grew up with this book, and it's probably part of what sparked my interest in firearms. Reading it now, it does cover most things, but it barely scratches the surface of each subject.

You need to know what you want to learn from the book.

If you want books for gun identification you have stuff like The Illustrated Encyclopedia Of XXXXX. These books are great as reference to a particular firearm, but doesn't offer much in terms of data or technical details.

If want to get more specific in a specific brand of firearm you have books like Mauser. Military Rifles of the World. Once you get into books about specific firearms the quality increases. You'll rarely go wrong with a book about a very specific subject.

ForgottenWeapons (which in itself is an extremely good reference for old and unusual stuff) has some book reviews every now and then.

If you want to get technical AGI has some nice video armorer's courses. I only have a couple of them, but I'm impressed with what I've seen.

I don't mean to be one of those guys that suggests exactly what you said you didn't want... but I'm going to anyways.

I assume you've flown before? Ever had a window seat? See how they treat luggage? I assume you have a pretty nice AR. Maybe a handgun and some other gear to go with it? You can get a pelican case for $200. Okay locks will run you $7/piece.

$215. Consider that insurance. Also makes for a nice way to transport your gun to the range from now on.


Pelican 1750 - Amazon

Abus 55/40 - Amazon

Note: You want locks that are KA or keyed alike. I like Abus because they are better than the Chinese made crap (although still nothing compared to abloy) for about the same money.

Also the Plano case is $75 cheaper. If you absolutely must then okay. Just make sure to buy the one that looks like a pelican case and NOT one of the >$100 ones. Those bend and fold and will break.

Plano - Amazon

If you're planning on spending more than $150 just save your money and save up for a premium optic like an Aimpoint, EOTech, Leupold, or Trijicon. If you're looking in the 100-150 range, Holosun makes a great solar/battery powered red dot that holds zero well and has a 30-50k hour battery life(when it's actually in battery mode). If you're looking for a more traditional optic, Bushnell and Nikon have good 1-4x optics. If you're looking for more magnification a Leupold
is within your reach. Vortex has strong offerings in both red dots and traditional optics if you're willing to spend a just bit more. If you're looking in the 50-150 range I'd look into a TRS-25 or Primary Arms for a red dot. For a traditional scope i'd stick with a fixed power optic like this Bushnell, you're going to be hard pressed to find a decent magnified optic with good glass in this price range, fixed power scopes are simpler in construction and offer at least better durability but i'd consider sticking to a non magnified optic under the $100 range. If you're trying to spend even less than $50 there is apparently a very well made $20 Fieldsport which is worth a search on youtube. I wouldn't consider anything magnified under $50 but this is a good range for a cool carry handle with elevation adjustment and retro look. Shooting irons can be more fun than using optics sometimes.

I'm also a new shooter for about a year now. I try to go at least once a month to the nearest outdoor place for rifle and hand guns shooting. So far, many of the other replies have done a great job so i'll just chime in with my recommendation for the ears protection. Right now, i'm using these 3M Peltor Combat ARms Earplugs. They're working well for me ever since I got them as a gift from a friend. I bought 3 more just so I have backups. I have one on me at all time, one in my range bag, and one in my car. Before that, I also use the Howard Leight R-01526. The Howard Leight earmuff are also great for its price. However, I don't like it for long session because of my big head that get squished too tightly if they're on for 20min or longer. It also gets in the way when i'm aiming down the iron sights. Other than comfort wise, the Howard's are fantastic in its operational purposed. If you can, try them both then decide which system works better for you. I have them both and most prefer the 3M more because it's has less profile while in use.

You're a cheapass - you only have limited eyes and ears, so you should do your best to protect them... but you can still be a cheapass and do that; I know this because I'm Mr. Safety, but my middle name is cheapass.

Buy these $9.92 Peltor Combat Arms reusable plugs with indoor/outdoor sides:

http://www.amazon.com/Peltor-97079-Combat-Arms-Earplugs/dp/B000W2CPCC/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1323708791&sr=8-15

Buy these $8.76 T-72 Remingtons (actually made by Radians), basic safety glasses:

http://www.amazon.com/Remington-Shooting-Glasses-Clear-Anti-Fog/dp/B000F7RSFI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1323708803&sr=8-3

Then keep on being a cheapass.

Alternately, you can get these Radians Adrenalines for $13.99; they have an aluminum frame and they look super bad-ass (like awesome sunglasses), the downside is that they only come with tinted lenses, so they aren't as good as clear lenses indoors (but still work). They come with an awesome hard case and a nerdy-ass neckband (which I wear because I'M COOL):

http://www.amazon.com/Radians-Adrenaline-Aluminum-Alloy-Silver/dp/B001F0KGZ8/ref=sr_1_39?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1323708938&sr=1-39

There are just too many individual variant Mausers to cover on a Reddit reply. Being the premier bolt action of the day, it's something like the C&R version of the AR platform. They were made in every shape, size, and caliber.

The short answer is that what most people think of Mausers can be described as the earlier M1893-style small rings and the later M1898-style large rings. (This is a radical over simplification and will turn the stomachs on most big milsurp collectors around here.)

Small Rings are good for slightly lower powered cartridges. They are generally lighter and more sleek looking. Most are stocked in straight wrists. They are also cock on close.

Large Rings are extremely rugged and can take very heavy ammo. They are slightly bulkier and usually look far less graceful. They cock on open. (There is an Intermediate Ring and a "What is with the Turks?" Ring, but they generally fall in the properties of the Large Ring category)


I recommend two books to get you started:

Mauser Military Rifles of the World. You can actually regularly find this at your local Barnes and Noble. This is the most complete Mauser book. It's like a shopping list.

Bolt Action Military Rifles of the World. This is an excellent beginning point for milsurps and the authors were very careful with their facts. Least number of ambiguous 'mistakes' of any collected book I've seen. It also has a two page layout on the evolution of the Mauser design that I find VERY helpful.

CLP should be everything you need as far as solvent.

I am also a huge fan of the blue top gun wash

Those two things and a viper boresnake

For a really stubborn and extreme cases of carbon/lead application use this stuff in a VERY WELL VENTILATED AREA I can not stress that enough. It is strong, it hurts your nose, and it will melt anything it touches from what I can tell. Rubber, polymer, plastic, etc - i use it with a qtip and a small wire brush to scrub off and I am extremely careful to protect everything around me. Doesn't bother my skin but nothing much does. Not something I use on the regular but it is damn good stuff!

You should be all set from there.

Kroil is absolutely fucking amazing. Honestly I found out myself that after about a month or so that Kroil seems to get gummy and so I no longer use it for firearms that I don't use on the regular. If you use the CLP to clean, and then are heading to the range, I would say Kroil all the way on slides, BCG, etc for whatever you are using - then when you put it away CLP again.

The best thing about CLP is that I have yet to find anything that it ruins. It is very noncorrosive.

I'd buy:

Breakfree CLP syringe

Larger bottle of breakfre

Boresnake

Those and a box of q-tips plus a toothbrush and maybe some rags make a great cleaning kit. For a light, you'll want to get a streamlight tlr-1 or tlr-3, but they are both closer to $100. You might also want to get a little safe for her, a mini gunvault would work well. And ammo... must have the ammo!

You might also want a range bag to keep your hearing/eye protection, ammo, and pistol in.

Gunmate bag

And sometimes I find that muff aren't enough which I saw you bought. I like to wear these sometimes by themselves or under muffs.

Peltor ear plugs

I take out the yellow end and they make really nice, compact, and effective hearing protection. And they're reusable of course.

Here's my suggestion, two pelican cases locked with padlocks and secured with steel cable via the same padlocks to something sturdy or difficult to move such as a bed frame. Secure the cases with locks and cables and slide them under your bed. You'll need to measure your guns to find the right size case but a standard pelican rifle case can easily fit two long guns and run you $200 seen [here] (http://www.amazon.com/Pelican-1750-Case-Rifle-Black/dp/B000AOMA1S/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1377658619&sr=1-1&keywords=pelican+rifle+case). Or use the Plano knockoffs ([here] (http://www.amazon.com/Plano-108421-Guard-Tactical-42-Inch/dp/B0029KDHRM/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1377657862&sr=8-6&keywords=pelican+rifle+case)), I haven't used them but they are $125 and should fit your needs. You could also go with one big ass pelican case for all four guns, seen [here] (http://www.amazon.com/Pelican-1740-Travel-Vault-Watertight/dp/B003HGUIEW/ref=sr_1_6?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1377658525&sr=1-6&keywords=pelican+rifle+case) for $368

They are waterproof, a little fire-resistant and go straight to the range with no repacking. If someone is determined to remove these cases and has enough time and tools they probably will, but these should thwart a smash & grab. A sturdy steel cable and four good locks shouldn't run you more than $150 + cases = well under your budget. You could also use cheaper cases for the same basic solution but you get what you pay for.

Hope this helps.

Try the UTG Tri-Rail mount and the NcStar 2-7x32 scope, great combo.

http://www.amazon.com/UTG-Mosin-Nagant-Tri-Rail-Mount/dp/B001WIYTUG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1377501801&sr=8-2&keywords=utg+tri+rail

http://www.amazon.com/NcStar-2-7X32-Pistol-Scope-SPB2732B/dp/B000FH6M00/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377501824&sr=8-1&keywords=NcStar+2-7x32

I'm mounting this on a '43 Izhevsk Ex-PU sniper. Mount is solid and the scope is clear. If you want to be cheap there is also a 3/8 in dovetail under the rear sight base. Use that scope though, you need the long eye relief. Pretty good reviews, and clear glass.

I did a scout scope on my mosin (though instead of using the picatinny rail I just mounted directly to the 3/8" rail beneath the rear sight). I used this scope with these rings. I've been very successful with this method. The scope sits just perfectly above the rifle, gives me a really nice sight. It's honestly brought new life into my mosin, made it even more fun. Holds zero, goes up to 7x magnification... can't really think of any downsides.

Beautiful! I have a 6" stainless GP100 myself. Absolutely love it. I installed this front sight right after i got it: http://www.amazon.com/HiViz-Ruger-GP100-Handgun-Sight/dp/B000EBUG4K

super easy to install and made a huge difference in the sight vizibility.

Find something that's heavy at the end, heavier than your rifle, and shoulder it a bunch of times just like you would your rifle. Do this for a few weeks and you'll increase your strength.

As to hearing protection, I recommend doubling up with equipment like this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001T7QJ9O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004DH65RI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You'll still be able to hear perfectly without doing damage to your ears.

Honestly I would upgrade your red dot. For pretty cheap, you can get a bushnell TRS-25 with a riser (Like $60-$100) and those are really awesome for the money. Other than that, I am fond of the Magpul stuff for furniture, but there is a lot of good stuff out there. Any ideas of what you might want? Here’s a link to the red dot if you care:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ABP8YCA/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1517979061&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=bushnell%2Btrs-25&psc=1&th=1

Additionally, you will need a cleaning kit, like here.

https://smile.amazon.com/PS-Products-AR15-M16-Cleaning/dp/B003ITAFMS/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1498843976&sr=8-8&keywords=ar+cleaning+kit

Also it's a good idea to use paper towels, q-tips, patches, and dental picks.

You don't need to clean your gun every time you go shooting, although it's not a bad idea. I typically clean my gun every other time, or about 200+ rounds. There are AR guides on youtube of all the secret little places where carbon loves to build up, too.

Wear ear protection. Every single time. I always, indoors or outdoors, wear earplugs with earmuffs on top. Gun stores have specialty ones but hardware store ear muffs work just as fine.

Finally, use eye protection as well. Just any safety glasses will do. Sometimes my AR will spit hot gas, carbon, and CLP into my eyes. That's just the way they work with the charging handle at the rear. Also saves you from shrapnel on the very, very off chance of a severe malfunction.

edit:

https://smile.amazon.com/Break-Free-Cleaner-Lubricant-Preservative-Squeeze/dp/B0050GW7KU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498844908&sr=8-3&keywords=clp

Also you're gonna need some CLP, cleaning and lube oil basically.

To clean your gun, wipe down all the dirt and oils, scrape the carbon out, clean the barrel, and then use a little clp to lube the gun and put a thin coat of oil on all the metal parts to prevent rust and wear.

If you AR came with a manual there may be a section of how to break it down and clean it.

There are three main options for a bipod:

• Rail mount - mounts to standardized rails
  
• Sling Swivel Mount - uses the sling swivel on the rifle to attach, useful for most hunting rifles since they don't typiclly come with rails
  
• and barrel clamp - this just clamps to the barrel, they are usually pretty basic, but at the same time they are pretty cheap.
  
  See what would be appropriate for the rifles you are looking at and go with that. It also does not hurt to get her input, going to the gun store with your significant other can be lots of fun!
  
  I just linked to the first example of each with a decent picture, I dont have any specific recommendations.

Honestly, unless it's an emergency, there's no rush to buy a 91/30 online. Raid the stores near your house or wait for a gunshow to roll around your area so you'll be able to inspect the rifle before buying it. Gotta be careful with 70-year old rifles that go for 90 bucks online. You might pay a bit more (honestly, any difference in cost might be negated by FFL fees) for brick & mortar but the peace of mind's worth it.

As for the scope mount, you don't have to actually bother purchasing anything extra. The rear sight base is removable (two pins hold it in place) and once you slide it off it reveals what's basically a 3/8" dovetail mount. Plenty of YouTube vids explaining how to do it.

Once you have the base removed you can slap some 3/8" scope rings on there and mount a long eye relief scope that doesn't require bolt modifications. I myself use a NcStar 2-7x32mm pistol scope, $40 on Amazon.

It's up to you whether you want the recoil pad. The rifle does have a bit of kick (the heft on the full-size one negates this a bit), but it's nothing you can't get used to.

ATI stocks are generally OK quality (I've got one for my Marlin 60) and decently priced but unless they're something drastically wrong with your furniture I wouldn't bother. There's plenty of aftermarket furniture available for purchase if you cruise online shops.

If you feel like getting your hands dirty, you can refinish the stock yourself (not as hard as it sounds) and make it look like what it did back in the Great Patriotic War. I'm planning on refinishing my whole '42 Izhevsk when I get back home.

What case to get depends on what you want to do with it.

Going from safe to range and not much else? Soft case bag, I like the one that rolls out into a shooting mat.

Going on a road trip and want something more heavy duty to be bounced around in the car and put a solid lock on it? This one does the job for me, there are dozens that serve this tier of hard case though.

Packing a really pricey gun on a long hunting trip and you want it to be able to survive WWIII? Pelican. Pelican is basically the god tier hard case, with the price tag to match. I got this on sale for $170 a few months ago, this is where my hunting rifle lives whenever it comes out of the safe because I care about my hunting rifle a lot more than I do my AR.

Take the gun apart, I'm not gonna bother telling you how since there's a ton of youtube videos on it. Spray break-free on the parts clean it dry it and grease it standard stuff people will tell you. I'd also suggest taking apart the trigger clean the cosmoline off and oil it up, the trigger will feel much better after.

Now that stock? Throw it in a tin trashcan and throw that sucker outside to sit in the sun, wipe the cosmoline that seeps out and that'll help remove that old gun smell. Now the sling rings? Yeah those, they're not bronze buddy clean those too for the hell of it.

I'm with everyone else on the "no mods" train, but if you wanna sportorize your mosin the mods I'd suggest to keep shit cheap is a Monte Carlo stock and maybe the UGT Rails if you wanna add a scope without needing clamps. If you wanna keep stuff vanilla and still get a nice upgrade for cheap I'd probably suggest a Smith-Sight, easier to adjust than the original and doesn't make your rifle look tacticool.

If you're not a strong soviet soldier and are a weak fat capitalist pig from eating cheeseburger and forcing your peasantry to do all hard work, there are two options for a butt pad. the cheaper hard rubber pad which doesn't do much for recoil but helps for extending your mosin if you got long arms, or the cabelas pad which you can use on multiple rifles and does help with recoil imo while also extending the butt.

Also if you need ammo, go here SGAmmo has some of the best bulk prices+shipping I've found for 7.62x54r also some good guys in terms of service and speed. If you do buy surplus buy a bottle of windex and spray the barrel and chamber after shooting to prevent corrosion from the ammo primer, hoppe's and most gun oils far as I know will not remove or deactivate the salts.

I've been shooting pistols for a few years now and am just now getting the rifle bug. Over Christmas it just hit me... I don't have a 10/22! I wasn't having any of that; and wanting to have a little fun with it, I came up with this.

Here's what it is:

Ruger 10/22 "All Weather" Carbine

Archangel 556 Rifle Stock

UTG Tactical OP Bipod

AccuShot Scope Rings

BARSKA 3-9x32 Plinker-22 Riflescope

I got to sight it in this morning! Nice and accurate as you should expect from a 10/22. Ran subsonic ammo through it and it was nice a quite. I really like the Barska scope too... it did great on its lowest 3X setting. When I have more time I'll see how it does at long range.

Edit* Also Ruger BX-25 mag

I love the Surefire brand in the ear plugs. The ones with the triple flange ear piece. I wear them under Peltor brand electronic earmuffs and my wife and I can still talk while at the range. I’ve also owned Howard Leights and they are good to go too as long as you don’t leave them out in the rain haha.


https://www.amazon.com/SureFire-Defenders-filtered-Earplugs-reusable/dp/B004DH65RI/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=surefire+ear+plugs&qid=1574204691&sr=8-4

This is the swivel set you need. It has a stud that go into the barrel band in front, or use a screw-in one on the stock. You will need to file the plastic on the barrel band down a bit to get it to tighten down right. The rear one will just be the screw-in one.

As Mr. fufu said below, it's not hard to do and basic drill and file sets are always handy to have around, or it should be a pretty easy job for any gunsmith.

Today was day 1 of my first Appleseed and I'm using a TakeDown. Other than the swivels being a little more work to install it works just fine. I would suggest against the Magpul specifically for Appleseed. The QD points are on the side which will make the gun tilt when you use the sling for support, and the cheek weld can be weird for how they teach it. In general I love that stock, just not for this.

> Which Mauser is best?

Long Mauser is best Mauser.

There's such a huge variety of Mauser models and calibers that you might want to buy one or two books on the subject.

Really though, if you want a Kar.98k that's what you should get; you won't really be happy otherwise. If you want a rifle that's visually identical to the Kar.98k without the price tag you might look at the Israeli-contract FN M1950 (many of which were converted to 7.62NATO), a Czech CZ-Brno Vz.98(N) (post-WW2 Czech copy of the 98k) or a Yugoslavian Mod.98/48 (German Kar.98k that were re-built and re-marked by Yugoslavia in the 1950s).

As far as a scope I'm not really that informed. You should definitely go check that forum though and just search for scope because they have some very knowledgeable people and it's solely focused on the 15-22.

I actually just ordered a dot sight for mine. I've read some really good reviews on it and I'm excited to try it out once it gets here.

This book is an excellent resource if you are going down that road. There are over 50 countries listed in the TOC, god knows how many variants within that... Great book, can't recommend enough for Mauser reference.

Yep, I agree with this. It's a .22, about as low pressure a round as you can find. Make sure it's not obstructed, nothing is obviously damaged, and that it isn't rusted to shit. Clean it, oil it, go shoot it.

Also you probably don't want to dry fire this gun, older rimfires like this will peen the breech face. These drywall anchors (the yellow ones you can find anywhere) work great as snap caps though.

Ok then, military surplus rifles. That's a solid place to start. Here's a rundown:

I actually don't have a K31 book, but this one is written by Joe Poyer who is an author I trust. K31s are pretty straightforward for the most part, it's the earlier rifles that are a tad complicated to study.

There's so many damn Mausers that it's hard to recommend a book that covers enough of them. This one should be enough to get you started. This one just came back in print and is for the Swedish Mauser.

For Mosins, This one should provide enough knowledge, but there's actually a surprising amount of material online. Not many printed books on Mosins in English, sadly.

For Enfields, Ian Skennerton's book is the go-to.

And that should be enough to get you started. For any other guns, just type the gun name followed by "book" into Google and you should find what you need. And as always, the internet has plenty of it's own resources too.

Lots of people like the Bushnell TRS-25 Red Dot, but I personally don't have any experience with it. Vortex makes some great red dots for under $200, and so does Holosun. You can also check out Primary Arms, as they make some of their own brand optics.

According to "The Good Book", as a friend of mine calls it, the Springfield M1A, DSA FAL, rebarreled Garand, or HK91 (In that order, I think).

It's been a while since it was updated, so there maybe new info to consider.

Edit: lol.. I don't know how I missed "AR-10 style".. Oh well. Sorry about the irrelevance.

Damn that's a lot of 22s! I really enjoy the 795. I used the iron sights for 2 months or so, but got tired of them. I bought a Barska 3-9x Plinker scope, and it's pretty great, though a little blurry at the higher powers.

You want this particular Mk. II as opposed one the cheaper ones because it has the AccuTrigger.

Personally, because I live in one of the many states that let's it's citizens have nice things, I would save up a bit more for this, and slap one of these, one of these and one of these on it.

UTG Tactical OP Bipod

So far I love it. Very sturdy and well built.

I bought the gun today for $209. I swapped the barrel band for this which allowed me to mount this bipod. I got this scope, but I only paid $30 for it. Does anything else need to be done, or what would all of you recommend? Trigger work or a barrel replacement? I like the stock as is.

I have this one, not sure if it is any good, but better than nothing Adventure Trauma Pack. Is there anything else I should add?

http://www.amazon.com/HiViz-Ruger-GP100-Handgun-Sight/dp/B000EBUG4K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369928903&sr=8-1&keywords=gp100+front+sight

Pretty sure this is what overthetable was referring to. I might be ordering one soon as well. I've taken off my front sight to paint it and its simple to do. YouTube has plenty of videos on it.

I'm not entirely sure if this is something you're looking for, but Lt. Col. Dave Grossman is a psychologist and a veteran who has specialized in researching what makes shooters tick. His two (the only ones I'm aware of at this moment ... both great reads) works are titled On Killing and On Combat.

If anything they may be able to point you in the right direction of more research and studies that have already been conducted.

I knew someone was going to beat me to posting that link. Its a VERY good read. I would also recommend you read On Killing if you are going to carry.

I just went through weeks of research to try and get a scope on my mosin and although I was on a budget I think I have a nice set up coming.
I used a rail to replace the rear sight and then bought a long eye relief scope. I spent $70 ish all total and I think it should be accurate to about 150 yards.
rail:
http://centerfiresystems.com/MNTMOI03.aspx
scope:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FH6M00/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I havent shot the rifle yet, I'm going to on monday

I use this cheap scope on my Ruger 10/22 and this red dot on my Marlin. They're both dirt cheap, and rock solid for me. I wouldn't trust them on anything more powerful than a .22 though. My buddy loved the red dot so much he bought one to put on his M&P15-22.

I'd like to recommend Boston's Gun Bible. It has a lot of valuable information for new and experienced firearm owners.

Get these for a good front sight replacement. Highly recommend them.

These.

They are cheap and effective. Having the yellow end in makes it so that I can mostly hear conversations and background noises and stuff. The olive end acts just like foam earplugs.

I've used everything from a tactical shopping bag, to the original box, to a range bag, to a Pelican case. Just depends on what I'm taking, the area I'll be, and what comes to hand.

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00SMX95IA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_61iJzbVBWHYPE

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0106BYBPM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_86iJzbEWQ86BS

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

LOL paging /u/Iggins01, a new disciple has appeared.

Just get yourself some CLP. It's what the military uses and is a good general purpose cleaner. It will work fine despite the unfortunate wording in the instructions.

For future reference, you usually don't need to clean a new gun before shooting it unless it came from the factory bone dry (never seen this happen).

Also:

• Solvents are usually cutting agents which are used in the first stage of the cleaning process. They dissolve copper fouling and carbon in the bore and allow it to be removed with brushes/patches.
  
  
• Oils are general lubricants and preservatives, and aren't as effective at removing fouling as dedicated solvents. Edit: Using oils after solvents can also be important because they neutralize any solvent remaining in the bore.
  
  The difference can be important because some solvents are very harsh (Sweets 7.62, among others) and aren't meant to be left in the bore very long. CLP isn't one of these, and will both Clean, Lubricate, and Preserve your gun.

Vortex Crossfire II is also a great scope and a little cheaper. You can get a cheap set of Vortex Hunter rings to mount it for $20.

Read this. Boston's Gun Bible. It covers many topics, including safety and legal aspects. It's a very good place to start.

Mine is rocking one of these. I'm very happy with it.

What is the significance of a riser? Also what is the difference between this and this other than the price difference. and lastly would it be possible to buy the original mount and grab this riser?

HKS Speedloaders; http://www.midwayusa.com/product/757555/hks-revolver-speedloader-ruger-gp100-s-and-w-581-681-586-686-38-special-357-magnum

Pouch for the aforementioned; http://www.amazon.com/Double-Pocket-Speed-Loader-Pouch/dp/B0013KYB4C

Bianchi holster; http://www.amazon.com/AccuMold-Cruiser-Holster-Barrel-Revolver/dp/B0028M995K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1331702358&sr=8-2

Fiber optic front sight; http://www.amazon.com/HiViz-Ruger-GP100-Handgun-Sight/dp/B000EBUG4K

That's more or less our setup. Great shooter.

Thanks for the list! Any recommendations on a first aid kit? Should I also buy one of these instead?

I have both of these on my Savage..

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JJCHWK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001WJ59BI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Very pleased with the scope for $40..

It's a 3-9x32... not sure of the exact model number. Here's the link to amazon where I got it. Seems to have gotten good reviews. http://www.amazon.com/Barska-AC10380-BARSKA-Plinker-22-Riflescope/dp/B001JJCHWK/

So this is a Smith and Wesson Model 27, made in 1960 (per the serial number), .357 Magnum (also .38 special). I received it as a gift and it is my first gun ever! Super stoked to own it now, and I'll probably join the prolonged slide of gun ownership that I see in this sub time to time. My next purchase is likely a smaller concealed carry weapon.

The giant ammo tin is vintage, I'm guessing vietnam era, but no idea, I could be full of shit. It's stacked with hundreds of .357 FMJs. 1 box of .357 hollow points, and 2 boxes of Shotshell snake charmers.

I'm pleased as punch with this gun. I've just purchased a bunch of accessories on amazon, I'll post them below, maybe you can tell me if these are good products or not for range shooting. (No referral links or any of that bs)

Plano Protector 4 pistol case

MTM 38/357 Cal 100 Round Flip-Top Ammo Box

Remington T-72 Shooting Glasses

3M Peltor Combat Arms Earplugs

Hoppe's Universal Gun Cleaning Accessory Kit

A 22 rifle is a good choice for a first gun and will leave you with a fair amount of your gift certificates once you know what you want your second rifle to be. I would suggest building a Liberty Training Rifle and then going to an Appleseed for some quality training on how to shoot.

An M1A would be an excellent choice as a main battle rifle (MBR). I suggest reading Boston's Gun Bible which will walk you through current MBR's and their pros and cons.

Nikon has a ProStaff Rimfire with BDC Reticle, 3-9 x 40mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SMX95IA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_61iJzbVBWHYPE

For 22's I prefer a smaller scope with less magnification like Vortex Optics Crossfire II 2-7x32 Rifle Scope, Dead-Hold BDC Reticle (CF2-31003) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0106BYBPM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_86iJzbEWQ86BS because I'm not taking 400+ yard shots

Mine was like $217 after tax, so I thin $220 is a completely reasonable price. Get yo-self some swivel studs and swivels, a cotton GI loop sling, and some tech sights, son!

Here you go: https://www.amazon.com/Break-Free-Cleaner-Lubricant-Preservative-Aerosol/dp/B0050GW73C/

I always have a can. Great at machine gun shoots. Something acting up? Hose it down.

As far as ammo is concerned, it depends what he shoots - $60 is probably not going to get you much although I'm sure he'd appreciate it.

Ammo can "hamper" full of of cleaning supplies, gun socks & cleaning mats?

e.g.
http://www.amazon.com/Tipton-Polymer-Gun-Cleaning-Picks/dp/B0048KGFHU

http://www.amazon.com/Break-Free-Cleaner-Lubricant-Preservative-Squeeze/dp/B0050GW7KU

http://www.amazon.com/Break-Free-Cleaner-Lubricant-Preservative-Aerosol/dp/B0050GW73C

http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Company-Knit-Gun-Sock/dp/B00014ZY0Q

http://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-24020-BoreSnake-Cleaner-Caliber/dp/B0014VQ6TI

http://www.amazon.com/MTM-AC-11-Ammo-Can/dp/B003ISKM9K

http://www.amazon.com/TekMat-11-Inch-17-Inch-Handgun-Cleaning/dp/B0036N9A3G

http://www.amazon.com/TekMat-12-Inch-36-Inch-Cleaning-Imprint/dp/B0036N474S

I added one of these to my range bag, gives me a bit more comfort

Adventure Medical Kits Trauma Packwith QuikClot
http://amzn.com/B003BS2PW4

If you buy elite, make sure to also get a pack of these.

Even a simple lateral move would be so much better.
Take the Bushnell trs-25.

https://youtu.be/jGLOd1jHz8E

It's $56 every day on Amazon, and comes down to $43 from time to time.

There are two different models,

https://www.amazon.com/Bushnell-Trophy-TRS-25-Riflescope-1x25mm/dp/B00200E0HM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=trs-25&qid=1558729196&s=gateway&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/Bushnell-Optics-TRS-25-Hirise-Riflescope/dp/B00ABP8YCA/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=trs-25&qid=1558729196&s=gateway&sr=8-2


They are considered the minimum viable for reliable, durable, and cheap, plus sport an ultra long battery life.

Using knives is simply more difficult on a physical and mental level to both inflict mass casualties and actually carry out the act of killing. Even highly motivated psychopaths can't inflict as many casualties - the only benefit is the degree of stealth it allows the perpetrator (e.g. gunshots allow groups to know which areas to flee from).

There's a great book on the subject called On Killing by Dave Grossman that explains our basic resistance to killing people and how de-humanizing the process by making it a less personal process makes it easier. An intuitive argument that killing someone with your bare hands is much more difficult mentally than as a predator drone operator, but a great read nonetheless.

Its the Leapers Golden Image 30mm Red/Green dot scope. You can pick it up on Amazon for $40 here

an optic would be good. I bought a Leapers Red Dot sight. For less than $50, it 's pretty good IMO.

It won't give you any magnification but it should be accurate up to 50 yards if you zero it in properly.

Note if you havent done so already: When you attach your mount, make sure you degreased the screws that came with the rails and the holes on the receiver. Then use a hollowground screw to attach them (take it from me, those screws strip very easily) after you put some RED Loctite on the screws.

You can absolutely put a sling on it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000H6NJ7I/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1475203288&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=sling+mounts&dpPl=1&dpID=41RP16XCdYL&ref=plSrch

Just grab that (or find a kit with 1 1/4" loops) and follow the directions in the package. You'll just need a drill and some epoxy.

Don't worry, you're fine.

This is the one I have on my Mosin: http://www.amazon.com/NcStar-3-9X40-Black-Scope-SFB3940R/dp/B000FHBQWO

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FH6M00/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's not the greatest scope ever, but if you get it mounted good it stays true. It'll do until I decide to drop some more money in it and get a bent bolt.

Edit: I linked the wrong scope. It's really 2-7x.

and this http://www.amazon.com/The-Gun-C-J-Chivers/dp/0743270762

and this http://www.amazon.com/Bostons-Gun-Bible-Boston-Party/dp/1888766069

Not OP but it's probably the 1750

https://www.amazon.com/PELICAN-1750-000-110-Long-Rifle-Case/dp/B000AOMA1S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474518339&sr=8-1&keywords=pelican+1750+case+foam

$6.56 for a pack of 100 :D

https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-370326-Ribbed-Plastic-100-Pack/dp/B000H5WVCS

http://www.amazon.com/ATI-Mosin-Nagant-7-62x54R-Monte/dp/B000HOT2SK
the stock is this one, if anyone was wondering.

this stock is what I'm getting

look at the fourth image this isn't the same scope but it's similar and should give you an idea what I mean.

Here you go. I think. Might not be the exact same, but it functions in a similar fashion.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BS2PW4/

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GBMUANI/

https://www.amazon.com/CELOX-Granular-Hemostat-Blood-Clotting-Crystals/dp/B00IP03838/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=quick+clot&qid=1563852080&s=gateway&sr=8-2

also i keep these in my backpack.

https://www.amazon.com/Adventure-Medical-Kits-Advanced-Clotting/dp/B003BS2PW4/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=quick+clot&qid=1563852080&s=gateway&sr=8-6

I've used them for years, work great.

Electronic ear buds? Not really, but these are on my wishlist

Try these

with these

https://www.amazon.com/Break-Free-Cleaner-Lubricant-Preservative-Aerosol/dp/B0050GW73C

aww yiss

Get some

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007ED76P8?vs=1

Never mind, they seem to be sold out everywhere.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007ED76P8/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?pc_redir=T1

Then you need a set of these: http://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-Air-Freshener-Pack/dp/B007ED76P8

To refresh them, just pour some Hoppes back on them.

http://www.amazon.com/Vortex-Optics-Crossfire-Dead-Hold-CF2-31003/dp/B0106BYBPM/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1453939651&sr=8-5&keywords=vortex+crossfire+ii

Nothing wrong with that stuff there. It's just a different method. It is more labor intensive though.

This is what I was talking about. Don't buy it from Amazon though, it's very common and you can pick it up from walmart and most gun stores cheaper. That is just one brand of CLP, another really popular one is Ballistol, but I can never find it locally.

For my frequent shooters they almost exclusively get CLP baths, which makes them very fast and easy to clean. Just field strip them, spray down the dirty parts, scrub with a brush if necessary, and wipe away the excess. I still use regular bore cleaner for the barrel though because it's more aggressive and works faster.

If I'm not gonna shoot something for a while I do the proper white glove cleaning where I meticulously scrub and degrease everything, and then apply tiny amounts of lubricant to select areas. My wife cleans all her guns this way because she hates getting oil on her hands when she goes shooting.

http://thefiringline.com

http://www.ar15.com/

http://www.glocktalk.com/

http://www.thehighroad.org/

boston's gun bible: http://www.amazon.com/Bostons-Gun-Bible-Boston-Party/dp/1888766069

the magpul dynamics training dvds

Boston's Gun Bible https://www.amazon.com/dp/1888766069/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_U3nWub1D9XQM4
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1888766069/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_U3nWub1D9XQM4

Boston's Gun Bible. I've read this one cover to cover...the info on battle rifles is invaluable, even if much of the legal discussion and AR15 info is about 10 years out of date. About 1/4 of the book is a love letter to the M14 and FAL platforms, but the Garand and HK G3 are not left out either.

I didn't like the front sight on my Ruger GP100 (was flat black), so I replaced it with this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EBUG4K

It came with a couple of different colors, I ended up on green/yellow.

Thinking of Hopps they make a car air freshener with gun oil smell. Off to amazon.

EDIT: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007ED76P8

http://www.boydsgunstocks.com/Boyds-Classic-Mosin-Nagant-s/175.htm

http://www.amazon.com/ATI-Mosin-Nagant-7-62x54R-Monte/dp/B000HOT2SK

As for an original stock? Dunno.

You might also try repairing the crack. Or just ignoring it. Pics?

https://www.amazon.com/Bushnell-Optics-TRS-25-Hirise-Riflescope/dp/B00ABP8YCA/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1538503337&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=trs25+riser&dpPl=1&dpID=41wdi3vQufL&ref=plSrch


Get this one it will cowitness with your iron sights. If you want lower 1/3 co witness you need the other sight with a different riser. theres actually a Q/A mentions the Ruger 556

I can't help you with your specific question. But here's the setup that I use.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0077RHZSO/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3SDVJGKGDE2XS&coliid=I26A2GT2KYE8KJ&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004DH65RI/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001T7QJ9O/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Absolutely. Comes with a few replacement pipes in different colors too. It's a piece of cake to put on. There is a small plunger on the muzzle beneath the front sight. Hit that with a punch and it pops right off, new one slides right in. Takes less than 30 seconds.

No plans to replace the rear, I dig the adjustable sight.

Here's my setup. Love it all. Sorry for the lack of formatting, I'm on my phone.

NCStar 3-9x 40mm scope
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000FHBQWO/ref=redir_mdp_mobile

Uncle Mike's swivel
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000H6NJ7I/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1368464932&sr=8-4&pi=SL75

Eagle 30rd banana mag
http://www.slickguns.com/product/ruger-1022-22lr-30rd-banana-mag-new-eagle-799

Forgot what kind of sling I got. It's nothing fancy. The eagle magazine had some weird plastic bit on it to "assist" is removing the mag but it prevented it from fitting. One swift hit with a large rock took it right off though.

Also avoid Remington golden bullets. I say it all the time but they are crap. I had jams every 5-10 rounds. I'm currently using federal's bulk ammo and haven't had a single bad round.

Buy a book before you buy the gun. https://www.amazon.com/Mauser-Military-Rifles-World-Robert/dp/1440215448

for eye protection, I just use standard wrap around safety glasses. I actually bought them at the range I frequent and then found the exact same ones at Harbor Freight...

Anyways, for ear protection, I use Peltor Combat Arms Earplugs and I'll throw on a pair of muffs if I'm indoors using louder weapons.

The NC Star optic he referenced costs all of $45. Dunno what your $700 dollar solution is, but it isn't that scope.

Maybe you could just work on shooting with iron sights first before you mount an optic. Two or even three hundred yards is totally feasible with open sights. Hell, if I can get expert ribbons at four hundred yards with an M-16, you should be good to go. Just practice more, the ammo is cheap enough.

ok.. so leveling make sense.

and i think i understand zeroing..at least the theory of it.

i figured out the zoom but I'm having trouble with focusing. Turing what I think is the focus ring doesnt seem to do anything

here is a link to the scope
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001JJCHWK/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00

Not much to say, really. Ruger SR9c and Llama 1911 .45 (Spanish manufacturer) I just bought the case (Pelican 1750) from amazon. They've got a hell of deal going on right now. Link below.


http://www.amazon.com/Pelican-1750-Case-Rifle-Black/dp/B000AOMA1S/ref=sr_1_1?s=photo&ie=UTF8&qid=1382407826&sr=1-1

Ebay special rubber rail covers! Bonus, they don't have logos or text, just flat, black, rubbery delight for my hands.

Ebay special flaming pig knock off krinkov style muzzle device! A must have for rifle caliber pistols, also unbranded for that clean look that doesn't break the bank.

UTG Bipod. Basically a Harris bipod but 1/3 of the price. As my brother would say, "this thing is titties".

UTG front and rear iron sights. These I'm actually a little guilty about trying but they're irons, they're cheap, and they're adjustable. They're not as good as my friend's Troys and they're not as light as my sets of Magpuls but god damn they just work and work well.

Lastly, my ultimate guilty pleasure "let's just see what happens" purchase. UTG 3-9x50mm scope for my bolt action 223. Holy hell, ~500 rounds through it, I don't adjust anything unless I change ammo and I'll be damned if it isn't as clear as my friend's nikon 3-9x40 but it damn sure is brighter.

There've been studies and books written by people on the subject. The military as a whole puts a pretty big emphasis on being able to actually kill your enemy when it comes down to it.

If you want something snapcap-like to stick in the chamber of a .22LR so you can dry-fire without hurting the firing pin or chamber, get a box of 4-6-8 X 7/8-Inch Plastic Screw Anchors.

It takes the same 10s of shots to ruin the rim on them as "real" .22 snapcaps that cost an order of magnitude more, it's soft enough that even if you really fuck up nothing will get hurt, and they'll usually even feed from a magazine.

I was issued these in basic and they have since been my favorite. And in combat there are theoretically tons of different earplugs that are readily available or provided, including ear-muff type radio headsets and such, but......

They aren't always worn religiously, and even outside of combat the daily work around loud engines (generators, large diesel trucks), tools, and blasting your headphones (if allowed/not caught) while driving trucks (because driving a HMMWV is loud as fuck) will kill your hearing over time too.

The book On Killing would likely be a place to find this stat. In the book he points out that throughout history most weapons fired in battle have not be aimed at anyone. He looks at the number of muzzle loading weapons left on battlefields in the Civil War with rounds packed on top of rounds because soldiers were going through the paces without firing on the enemy. Behavioral psychology was tasked with solving this problem in the latter half of the twentieth century in the US.