Reddit reviews Break-Free CLP-2 Cleaner Lubricant Preservative 4 oz (113.4 gram) Aerosol

For those that dont know...

http://www.amazon.com/Break-Free-Cleaner-Lubricant-Preservative-Aerosol/dp/B0050GW73C/ref=pd_sbs_sg_4

Ahh the smell of CLP and carbon. They should bottle that as cologne.

[Use BreakFree CLP] (https://www.amazon.com/Break-Free-Cleaner-Lubricant-Preservative-Aerosol/dp/B0050GW73C/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1527701862&sr=1-2&keywords=breakfree+clp&dpID=41JdE9XUZ5L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch)

Can be found at your local Wal-Mart in the gun section as well if you don't want to order online. 1 can lasts a long time as you only need a tiny bit. To my knowledge BreakFree CLP is the only thing that the military uses to clean and lube their weapons. It's name stands for Clean Lube Protect/Preserve, it does everything all in one.

With CLP there will be a little left over residue even if you try to get it all off, but this is good as it is protecting the weapon from rusting, and remaining viscous enough to act as a lubricant. The gun will be holstered anyway and it won't get on your clothes so don't worry.

Another thing is that you really don't need to clean your gun as much as you think. The common saying up until recently was "Clean your gun everytime you shoot it, even if its just putting a magazine through it". This is absolutely unnecessary!!! Yes some guns may need to be cleaned every couple hundred rounds like a tight fitting 1911, but pretty much any modern striker fired gun like Glock should only be cleaned once every 1000 rounds.

I follow the every 1000 rounds protocol and have had no issues with my guns getting too dirty/jamming. I've even gone into competitions with 7-800 rounds through my Glock since the last cleaning. Just spray a little CLP on the rails before the match. A wise man once said to me " I like my guns how I like my women, dirty and well lubed".

> where did you get it used, would you recommend the Mossberg 500A, and would you consider that an average used price for a decent Mossberg 500A? check pawn shops, armslist.com, and backpage.com for used. New, any sporting goods store, or local gun dealer should have them, or can get them. I'd say a good used price is between 175 and 225. New, they should be just a bit more than that, up to ~300

>it looks pretty good: looks shouldn't be a deciding factor in an HD gun, but yes, it isn't a bad looking gun

>http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/c/c2/M590A1.png[1] that's a 590 (the 500's big brother) but they're both great guns. If I had to do it all over again (I have a 500) I may have saved a bit longer and bought the 590

>also, what cleaning practices would you recommend as a necessary routine? clean it every time you shoot it. Before you shoot it the first time, break it down as far as the manual shows, and clean/oil all moving parts, or where things rub. Not heavily, just a light coat of oil. I use Break-Free CLP, others use RemOil, and others use other stuff. Find what you like and stick with it. Whatever you do, DON'T use WD-40.

>also, would you recommend the 00 buckshot for home defense? I was reading about it and it seems to be the recommended buckshot (and led to me posting something on WTF I ran across). like the guy below said..#1 buck isn't going to penetrate as much as 00 buck. Personally, I use 00. Whatever you do, DO NOT use birdshot. Dick Cheney shot a guy in the face with birdshot from not far away, and the guy was [mostly] fine

>i've heard the advantage of a shotgun for home defense is that you don't have bullets going through walls that would harm an innocent person. is that true? and would that still be the case with a 00? For the most part, yes. You may have penetration through drywall, but much of it depends on how far the projectile(s) have traveled, and what they have hit prior to encountering the wall. The likelihood of one punching through 2 layers of drywall is there, but I would bet they aren't going to go through your drywall, the brick on the outside of your house, and into your neighbor's window. That being said, you shouldn't be pulling the trigger unless you're aiming at your target.

>thanks for the info in advance. you're welcome. And whatever you get, if you do get something, practice practice practice. You DO NOT want to be in a life-threatening situation and forget how your firearm operates. Stress does crazy things to people.

https://www.amazon.com/Break-Free-Cleaner-Lubricant-Preservative-Aerosol/dp/B0050GW73C

I like CLP Breakfree. Ill just hose it down till its dripping wet. Then you can use a toothbrush or something similar. Can also use brake cleaner, just be sure to oil the gun up afterwards as it draws oil out of the metal. For really caked on stuff you can let it sit in a bath of CLP. I have seen rifles that were caked to death look brand new.

> ebay there are dozens of different Breakfree CLPs... clp 16, clp 20, needle

Yes, what you linked will work perfect. All the Breakfree CLPs you see on Ebay are the same thing. They are just maked CLP 16, 20 etc because that's who the various ebay sells write their titles. They are the same thing in different types of bottles.

Every single one of those will work.

All of these Froglube items are the same formula in different packaging and applicator tips. Decide if you want foam, eyedroper, or just what not. Every single one of them will work for your gun.

Grease is lubricant, but much more thick. It will be marked "grease", you won't buy it on accident. None of your guns need grease. Think motor oil vs joint ball bearing grease.

I'm going to make it easy. Just buy what you linked, or this or this. They are the same formula, just different size bottle. One has an eyedropper, the other one foams because it is in a pressurized can. I prefer the eyedropper because it's easier to spread on the rails of my carry pistol. Then I put a little on a patch and rub down the exterior of the gun. This brand is found in every gunstore in the country.

Anything you can find in a gunstore marked "Lubricant" and/or "Protective oil" will work. You are making this a bigger deal than it is, it's like stressing on what exact 5w30 synthetic to put in your car. It doesn't matter because they all work just fine. The reason there is a million different ones is because they all work.

Doesn't really matter much. I use Breakfree CLP for pretty much everything. Does cleaning, lubing, and protecting well enough for me. Get a .30 cal bore snake and some old Tshirts to cut up or something and that'll be fine.

https://www.amazon.com/Break-Free-Cleaner-Lubricant-Preservative-Aerosol/dp/B0050GW73C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1479085490&sr=8-3&keywords=clp

https://www.amazon.com/Break-Free-Cleaner-Lubricant-Preservative-Squeeze/dp/B0050GW7KU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1479085490&sr=8-2&keywords=clp

NO WD-40! Breakfree CLP is your best bet cause you can get it almost anywhere. I use Froglube or Seal nowadays and they both work great.

CLP

Here you go: https://www.amazon.com/Break-Free-Cleaner-Lubricant-Preservative-Aerosol/dp/B0050GW73C/

I always have a can. Great at machine gun shoots. Something acting up? Hose it down.

CLP should be everything you need as far as solvent.

I am also a huge fan of the blue top gun wash

Those two things and a viper boresnake

For a really stubborn and extreme cases of carbon/lead application use this stuff in a VERY WELL VENTILATED AREA I can not stress that enough. It is strong, it hurts your nose, and it will melt anything it touches from what I can tell. Rubber, polymer, plastic, etc - i use it with a qtip and a small wire brush to scrub off and I am extremely careful to protect everything around me. Doesn't bother my skin but nothing much does. Not something I use on the regular but it is damn good stuff!

You should be all set from there.

Kroil is absolutely fucking amazing. Honestly I found out myself that after about a month or so that Kroil seems to get gummy and so I no longer use it for firearms that I don't use on the regular. If you use the CLP to clean, and then are heading to the range, I would say Kroil all the way on slides, BCG, etc for whatever you are using - then when you put it away CLP again.

The best thing about CLP is that I have yet to find anything that it ruins. It is very noncorrosive.

Perhaps a sprayable gun lubricant would be better? They're designed for exactly the same sort of use (small mechanical parts, high reliability), so I imagine something like CLP (or whatever's available locally) would work for locks.

As far as ammo is concerned, it depends what he shoots - $60 is probably not going to get you much although I'm sure he'd appreciate it.

Ammo can "hamper" full of of cleaning supplies, gun socks & cleaning mats?

e.g.
http://www.amazon.com/Tipton-Polymer-Gun-Cleaning-Picks/dp/B0048KGFHU

http://www.amazon.com/Break-Free-Cleaner-Lubricant-Preservative-Squeeze/dp/B0050GW7KU

http://www.amazon.com/Break-Free-Cleaner-Lubricant-Preservative-Aerosol/dp/B0050GW73C

http://www.amazon.com/Allen-Company-Knit-Gun-Sock/dp/B00014ZY0Q

http://www.amazon.com/Hoppes-24020-BoreSnake-Cleaner-Caliber/dp/B0014VQ6TI

http://www.amazon.com/MTM-AC-11-Ammo-Can/dp/B003ISKM9K

http://www.amazon.com/TekMat-11-Inch-17-Inch-Handgun-Cleaning/dp/B0036N9A3G

http://www.amazon.com/TekMat-12-Inch-36-Inch-Cleaning-Imprint/dp/B0036N474S

• 9mm bore brush and patch loop
  
• Patches
  
• Hoppes solvent
  
• Lube
  
  That's the minimum. I would also recommend CLP as a mid-step between solvent and lube, and as a general cleaner and protectant. Cleaning brushes and picks are useful for getting into the harder to reach places. Finally a bore snake down the barrel at the range after shooting from chamber to muzzle a couple times will make cleaning significantly easier.

You're going to hear a LOT of different things. My advice is to read as much as possible. Don't just take one person's word as gold, because what works for one person doesn't necessarily work for everyone else. My opinion? $600 isn't enough to be competent and comfortable with a setup, if you're not already experienced with guns.

On a budget, here's what I'd do:

First, I'd go with 9mm. I'm a firearm enthusiast, and I primarily shoot 9mm. There are pros and cons to both, but to me, the single biggest benefit of 9mm comes down to affordability. I can buy twice as much 9mm as I can .45. Thus, I can shoot twice as much, and be far more prepared. 9mm won't hit quite as hard as .45, but it hits hard enough to kill. You'll be able to carry more 9mm than .45 ammo, you'll be more accurate (because there's less recoil from 9mm), and you'll be trained better before anything even happens.

So the bare minimum starter package for a gun owner (regardless of caliber) should include a firearm, ammunition, safety gear, and a cleaning kit. Forget about carrying, for the moment. Without those basic things, owning a firearm is completely pointless. Having a firearm in your home that lives in a drawer and can be used against home invasion is better than not having a firearm at all, even if you don't ever carry it outside of your home. And it's a good starting point. A dirty firearm doesn't fire. You must be able to maintain your firearm with regular cleaning, and oiling. A dirty firearm malfunctions. A rusty firearm malfunctions.

On a tight budget, I'd go with a Taurus Millennium G2. People on here love to bash Taurus as a brand, and maybe they deserve that bashing. But the Millennium G2 (that's 2nd generation of the Millennium) get great reviews. Look it up, read reviews of any firearm you're thinking about. Watch videos on Youtube. Don't just talk to people who have never handled that specific model, but do as much research as possible.

So, here's the list-

Taurus Millenium G2 - $209, free shipping. + $35 (average) FFL fees to get it from your local gun store.

Break Free CLP (cleans, lubes, and protects- all in one cleaning product) - $7.99, plus something to wipe the bore($10.97), plus some rags and an old toothbrush to clean the gun.

Disposable ear plugs. Not as good as over the ear, active noise cancelling, etc... but they're a start. $7.86

Shooting glasses. $7.19

This is a start, and it's half of your budget. The other $300 can be put toward something like a holster, a belt, ammo, and classes. I highly recommend classes. If you're not intimately familiar with firearms, they're basically a must. Even if you are, they're still a good thing. Even without classes, you'll still need a range, and ammo adds up. Defense ammo is going to run you ~$30/box, and I recommend shooting that at least occasionally, so that you know what it feels like to shoot (hint: it's different from 115 grain target ammo).

Then, shoot as much as possible.

This stuff! CLP... "Cleaner, Lubricant, Preservative" Use it for guns and anything that needs a good lubin...

WD40 is trash. I gave up on it when working on my '73 Charger. WD40 just gets everything stinky and oily and generally doesn't work very well to loosen up rusty parts. What is it good for is spraying on machined metal like engine parts and tools to prevent rust.

Break-Free CLP is much much better for loosen rusty parts and lubricating.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0050GW73C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_X9xCDbFHAS4NN