(Part 3) Top products from r/klr650

Yeah it was a blast! Although there were definitely low points as well. I was 26/27 for the trip, currently 30. It was about 3 months on the road, but I also skipped almost all of N. America. Figured I can do that later, but South and Central America is changing daily. I think I did 12,000 miles total. I think I spent about 11k for the whole thing, 2500 for bike ('02 KLR, garage kept with only 3,000 miles) another 2000 for mods and equipment, and the rest on the road. You could do it cheaper if you wanted I ended up staying in hotels more often than camping, although the hotels were only about $10-15 a night so even that wasn't too much. Biggest expense ends up being fuel and paying for entry visas, insurance etc. Also I was originally planning on selling my bike at the end but got too attached and shipped it home, so that added another $900. I did go over budget but not by too much fortunately, my girlfriend helped me a little towards the end to finish up (which is why I had no hesitation to make her my wife)
As far as equipment, the most important thing is a bike (obviously!) that you feel comfortable on, you'll be spending a lot of time together. Otherwise I feel my best money spent was on a very good set of panniers. Also good country by country GPS databases were invaluable, but you can get those for free online. I'm a big fan of paper maps, but I have to say the GPS was a lifesaver. There's so much to talk about regarding what to get, and what NOT to bring, it's easy to pack too much. For now I'd focus on getting a good bike and in the mean time I highly recommend this book it's fairly general at times, but is a great place to start planning. I read it front to cover.

Anyway good luck and feel free to stay in touch, especially if you decide to go for it!

The best cover I've used is the only cover I've used. Bought 4 different ones. One for the wife's bike and 2 for my KLR (one for my Versys).

Here's the link

The XXL size fit even with my huge booty top box on my KLR. I'd size one down to the XL if you have no luggage. The XL size fits my Versys 650 and my wifes F700GS perfectly.

It's super thick and waterproof. Has what I'll call "heat-resistant" material on the lower edge near the exhaust/engine area. Comes with bungee hooks to secure the cover under the bike. It also has a ventilated cutout on the side.

My first one I had on my bike year round and the sun got to it. Eventually it just broke down and ripped once it got so thin and faded. If it's not shaded I'd probably treat it every month or so to get the most out of it. As it stands the first one lasted me well over a year.

I did this on my Bandit 1250. I didn't pull the oil pan (4-5 hours of work to do so: have to remove radiator, full exhaust, lot of other pieces). I rented a Time Sert kit in M14x1.25 (Bandit's drain plug size) for $25 + refundable deposit + cost of sleeves (I bought 2). Time Sert may be really expensive, but it is a REALLY REALLY REALLY good tool. I fixed my drain plug in about 15 minutes. Drilled out the hole, rethreaded it per instructions, ran a gallon of rotella through it, put red locktite on the insert, and it has been solid through 2 oil changes so far. I was beyond impressed with Time Sert.

Not sure if they offer an M12x1.5 (KLR) size, but worth a look. on Amazon it's $95, but I would called them and ask if they have an M12x1.5 kit available. aircooled.net link

Alternatively, there are Helicoil and Perma-Coil thread repair kits.

3rd option is to drill it out to a size larger and tap it out, get a new drain plug. Either to M13 x 1.5 or M14 x 1.5. Found this kit on Amazon, you'll have to source your own drill bit, naturally.

Call Eagle Mike, see if he has any repair kits or recommendations.

Check with a local auto shop if they have a time sert in m12 x 1.5 kit and if they'd let you use it. You'll need to get your own sleeve inserts. Autozone may have a rental for you.

Do the redneck thing, put a shitload of high temp silicone on the drain plug, sell the bike to some poor sap. No, don't do that.

Online it looks like a cheap $35 battery. Good enough in a pinch, shit for long term.

Junk...

But yes jumping from a car is perfectly fine, so long as the car is off. The bike will draw the amps that it needs from the car when you try to start the bike.

If you start the car, then you shove those amps down your bikes throat. More specifically, your stator and/or regulator/rectifier's throat.

I rode the TAT last year on my gen 1. I absolutely fell in love with this tool- https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0161-Multi-Purpose-Metric/dp/B000GTV1V2 you can use it for most trail side adjustments and it can replace a few heavier tools. I also carry a small plastic syringe measuring tool and some small tubing that i can use to activate the vacuum petcock so i can drain fuel into a bottle and put it in a buddy's bike. Have fun and watch out for mud

I realize that it's too late, but I found that Amazon had the Motion Pro Terminator clutch cable for a fair amount less than the vendor I've been using and with Prime shipping, I had the replacment two days later.

They have the tabs to choose your model and year:

http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-02-0206-Terminator-Clutch/dp/B000WJIT5W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1415635024&sr=8-1&keywords=motion+pro+terminator+clutch+cable

http://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-03-0204-Black-Clutch/dp/B000WJJ35C/ref=pd_rhf_dp_p_img_2

I think I got this one for 15$ Thanks for the reply though.

Here is the one I got... I don't know if it is "good" but it fits and works with my 12

WIX Filters - 24951 Cartridge Fuel Metal Canister, Pack of 1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CSD28C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_Yog8wbRHB6HCY

It came with the oring as well and I hear that's something to look for.

VHT SP115 FlameProof Coating Satin Clear Paint Can - 11 oz. https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000CPJLGW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5QsRDb69PXSFK

I use the Nelson-Rigg MC-904-05-XX Deluxe All-Season Motorcycle Cover (Black, XX-Large)
for my KLR 650 with pelican side panniers. I think it will fit your situation
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000GU7I72/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I found These on amazon, anyone have them?

KN-123? Should have the rings on them already, but if not see link.

That’s this guy from Acerbis

Start with the owner's manual; it has a schedule for all the planned maintenance (and a few diagrams). Routine maintenance is dead simple.

For more detail on repairs, the Clymer guide is a good resource. And whenever starting a job I'd never done before, I would watch a youtube tutorial. Didn't have a particular favorite vlogger, tho. Aftermarket parts often come with their own installation instructions.

FWIW, you can do it all yourself. It's almost always just a matter of disassembling the machine and replacing the broken part, then putting it back together again. You'll want to invest in a good socket set, a beam torque wrench, and a stand of some sort. I personally liked the bolt-on centerstand, since I often had to get new tires during long road trips (and shops will often charge $30+ just to take off the wheel) but it does limit ground clearance.

I would make the following recommendations before resorting to welding or drilling out, or any method with a higher chance of causing damage to other parts of the motorcycle.

Edit: I looked at the picture and realize you didn't mean you ruonded off the top of the bolt, you mean that you snapped off the head. My advice below is for rounded off nuts and advice on the hex-key oil bolts. You can ignore it as your issue is a sheared off head.

Think of when you change your car oil filter. The oil filter wrench -- how does hit work? It tightens up and gets a better grip as you turn. Now think of your open-end wrench, especially if you don't have one that's a correct fit -- it grabs only two of the thin bolt head edges, and pushes on the thin tips. The worse fit your wrench is to the bolt, the finer the edge of the tip it's going to grab--and smear. Use the open end wrench ONLY as a last resort.


Get either a Loggerhead Tools Bionic Wrench or a Sears Max Axxess wrench version. Squeeze on the nut and turn. As you turn, it bites down harder. This is better than vice grips that bite once, then use small teeth like a metal file if they slip.

Note: There is a controversy, I recommend supporting buying the American Inventor tool, Loggerhead, and not Sears

Consider using a Gator Grip socket.

If any of the above give you a problem, use a hand file or a dremel to put some more solid edges on your bolt for them to grip.

Final tips: The stock bolts are fine. Get a correct fitting, box-end wrench, or a six-sided socket, and you will never have a problem (unless you smear it on a rock). There is nothing wrong with the hex key drain plugs, but note you're using a reverse box-end wrench (a six-point "bolt head") to stick into the hole. And if somehting goes wrong, you have less surface area in the hex hole to apply force to for removing them -- you'll be filing flat edges on that round bolt head so you can get one of the above tools to bite on it. Plus you'll have to carry an extra tool vs the Eagle Mike low profile that's the same bolt head size (I believe).

The hex-key fix is an "I don't know how to use tools so I get one that was dummy proofed for me" tip. The equivalent to using a box end wrench on a bolt, would be using a standard/slotted screwdriver to tighten/loosen your hex keys.

I went with this for the front fender, which really helped to cut down wind pull (and just looks cooler, honestly.)

These are the front turn signals that I traded out, still plenty visible, but not huge like the stock ones.

Add these lights to the front fairing for a whole lot of extra visibility, both at night and for daytime rides too. Easy to wire up, and just takes two holes. Make sure you get the spot beam, not the flood.

I've got this bash plate + crash bar combination on mine now, it's already stood up to one test on a dirt road.

Here's a picture of mine as it stands now. (and a detail shot) Apologies for the garage picture, and dirty bike.