(Part 3) Top products from r/knifemaking

There's a lot of different directions that you could go in, depending on what you want. The best sharpening is done on bench stones, but they have a learning curve. You can also use a jig system like the lansky and get good results. These are great because you can set an angle and keep it, but you are limited in the number of angles you can set (bench stones obviously are not).

I wouldn't recommend either of the sets you list, as they each have three pieces but all of them are basically the same grit. What is your price range?

I really think the best bang for your buck is the basic lansky system: https://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Standard-Coarse-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8L6LI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1493602647&sr=8-3&keywords=lansky+system

It's pretty inexpensive for the basic set (the diamond set is worth it if you want to spend the extra money), pretty easy to use, and works well for most knives.

There are lots of videos on youtube that show good sharpening technique for bench stones. Murray Carter (master bladesmith) has a good dvd series on sharpening if you want to go down the free-hand route.

Yeah ill just copy paste something i sent someone else who had a 300 dollar budget. The only real big things id say you NEED are a few hand files, a bench vise and the steel to make from. Otherwise look into the 1x30 sander and some belts that are linked. Pick through it, all the links have prices in them so let me know what you think!

Okay going to make this short and concise. These are all my opinions to make blades.

• Steel from here (start with 1084 or 1095 and you can either start with .156 or .187 for thickness (.187 is on the THICK side), or you can also get .125 thick for thinner projects. And 1.5 inches wide is the smallest i would go, or you can get 2 inches wide to be safe)
  
  
• Lots of different files, this one will help to start with though
  
  
  
• This belt sander does amazing to start out with
  
  
  Going to need lots of belts for it, here are some. Would suggest getting the 50 grit (please remember he will need multiple amounts of these so get a few of them). I would also suggest grabbing the 120 grit to take some deep scratches out. However the 320 isn't necessary as you can do all that by hand with regular sand paper.
  
  
• 1x30 50grit
  
  
• 1x30 120grit
  
  
• 1x30 320grit
  
  
  Hopefully in the yard or somewhere he can have a workbench set up because having a benchvise is such a luxury.
  
  
• This vice would do the trick
  
  
  
• The magical angle grinder, you can pick this up locally or order online
  
  
• It will need some of these
  
  
  Hand sanding paper (The fun stuff)
  
  
• 320grit
  
  
• 600grit
  
  
• 1000grit
  
  
  Also a sharpening stone will be very helpful however i don't have much knowledge as the best way to go with these. After doing some research, This stone seems like it would do the trick for the most part
  
  I forgot about these, 2 should be okay if he doesnt already have some
  
  
  Assuming you do not buy the 320 grit belts, and buy (5) 50 grit, and (5) 120 grit belts.
  
  The total comes to right around 308.36
  
  Would like to note that all of this is for making the process easier. You can do all of this with 1 bench vise, 1 hand file, a hack saw and some steel. It would just take a long time and be extra tough! But absolutely doable without all of these gadgets
  
  
  And heres a coupon for anything at Harbor Freight 25% off! http://www.dealsoff.com/images/harbor-freight-25.jpg
  
  and this one http://www.harborfreight.com/20off-coupon912-aff-17573.html?utm_source=cj&utm_medium=aff&utm_campaign=wts-coupons&hftref=cj
  

I've never done micarta before, but have done quite a bit of digging on it since I want to do some eventually. There are two things that have popped up in my research that are key to making decent micarta:

1. The process: Building a press and form is pretty straight forward, the main thing to avoid is making scales that are too thin. In order to keep it clean and somewhat uniform, I plan to do something like in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sHez490P7g4
   
   
2. Resin: The part that took some digging to find out is that you should not be using epoxy resin. Epoxy resin is difficult to finish on a grinder and to get to come out well. To get a smooth/clean finish the material must be saturated in the process, and I plan to use polyester casting resin: https://www.amazon.com/Environmental-Technology-34032-polyester-casting/dp/B0018N9E3M
   
   This video has a a pretty good process for using clear casting resins and how to finish them off: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qt9ZLG4lJ8k
   
   

personally i tried the drill bit thing, but if you dont have a surface plate then theres no gaurentee you will hit center. I bouth one if these https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019O501A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and it has been a god send. Also, its awesome for making sure your bevel is even and has a million other applications like measuring for your pins. For marking center, like others have said, I paint the stock with Dykum blue, then use the calipers to scribe center.

The cheapest way? If you're using a Gough jig, you can use a protractor to rig your angle, and tightly wrap your file in 220 grit sandpaper (you can also use a piece of flat steel for more precision). Then progress through the grits, raising a burr each time. Use the rough side old leather belt (I stole one of my husband's) as a strop. Green Polishing Compound on an old belt after using 2500 grit sandpaper will get you plenty sharp.

I sharpened our kitchen knives for a couple years before starting bladesmithing using this method. It'll easily create a good shaving edge, and is much faster than a lansky

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B8IEA4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B8L6NG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00

Lansky deluxe and stand. Got my knife from 0 to 100 in less than 20 minutes. Gough on youtube has a great video on how to effectively use it.

>When I took the blade out of the kiln it did have some carbon on it and it was not cherry red

What color was it?
Were you outside? had bright lighting on?

Color is not particularly reliable unless you have the experience to associate those colors with temperature. 'cherry red' in particular is just too vague. its not even consistent fruit to fruit, cherry red is just too subjective.

and if it hardened satisfactorily then the color isnt really relevent.
get yourself some hardness testing files, find out the facts, not what you think a blade should look like

For some links (again, not to endorse amazon, but...):

https://www.amazon.com/Lansky-Deluxe-5-Stone-Sharpening-System/dp/B000B8IEA4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464840389&sr=8-1&keywords=lansky+sharpeners

I use this sharpener system, also with an auxiliary diamond extra coarse sharpener and leather strop.

For the initial edge setting, I use this surgisharp edge tool: https://www.amazon.com/Surgi-Sharp-Universal-Angle-Guide-SS10/dp/B00IUPMWEY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464840566&sr=8-1&keywords=surgisharp

It lets me put 20 degrees or whatever on the edge with a belt, and then use the stones.

Finally, I use a 1x30 stropping belt (https://www.amazon.com/SURGI-SHARP%C2%AE-Leather-Belt-Abrasive-Stick/dp/B000R6RLAY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1464841655&sr=8-1&keywords=leather+stropping+belt) to get a super sharp edge at the end.

It's a little expensive, but I think it's worth it. I can shave with the knives I sharpen.

Edgemaking System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002IXQD8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PISdBbHXJEBEZ

I really recommend this. It works great and makes em scary sharp.

I ordered 2 packages of this from Amazon. Works well. I bet other places have it online as well. https://www.amazon.com/Bob-Smith-206-Slow-Cure-Epoxy/dp/B001NI8MNK/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=epoxy+bob+smith&qid=1563722419&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Drag a file across the steel, see if it bites into it, or skates across it. if it skates across the steel has been hardened. I do not know why it would come from amazon hardened but anything is possible.

As for the Blades, I have only ever used Starrett blades, in my opinion when I find something that works well for me, I get the if it isnt broke dont fix it mentaility, so I usually use these /dp/B000FCER8Y/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=starrett+hacksaw+blade&qid=1570649165&sr=8-2.

If you do have to anneal the steel, Have a look at this article, it will not only instruct you on how to anneal, but will give you an understanding as to why, so you arent just going through the motions. https://www.instructables.com/id/An-Introduction-to-Heat-Treating-Carbon-Steels-Ann/

I'm interested in building one of these. About how long does one of these cans last in one of these?

Also, would one of the basic use BernzOmatic Basic Use Pencil Flame Propane Torch Head work with one of these, or does it need to be one of the higher-intensity torches?

I have this kit, twice, with the regulator, is it enough? Or should I follow your recommendation anyway?

But thank you very much for your advice

Edit: forgot to link the kit

Here you go

Looks like this stuff I've used on RC planes:

Midwest 5720 Carbon Fiber Tube .125 24" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQYLOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_W13GAb6AR2ZQ9

Figured I'd also mention if you're all about the fine sanding you should give these a try. They can supposedly polish watch crystal. - http://www.amazon.com/Zona-37-948-Polishing-11-Inch-Assortment/dp/B001BHGC7G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1450485387&sr=8-1&keywords=micron+sanding

https://www.amazon.com/RUST-OLEUM-242219-Natural-Danish-Finish/dp/B000ONVIAE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473680778&sr=8-3&keywords=danish+oil

I did use curly maple along with a TransFast Water-Soluble Powder Dye Stain (COLONIAL MAPLE #3277) finished with Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil. Here is a link to the dye http://www.ebay.com/itm/TransFast-Water-Soluble-Dye-1-oz-container-COLONIAL-MAPLE-3277-/261665978437?pt=Paint_Paint_Supplies&hash=item3cec81f845 and for the tru-oil http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000C5398/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Close, it was Actually one of these

2x42" just isnt verry common in the EU imho if we are talking about something liket this https://www.amazon.com/Palmgren-Belt-bench-finishing-machine/dp/B0006577HI

what is more common over here are these types:
https://www.amazon.de/Einhell-Stand-Bandschleifer-Grobschleifscheibe-Schleifband-Scheibendurchmesser/dp/B00HT952FI

Which arent great as the motor is really weak and stalls out under medium pressure + the belt is at an awkward angle and the stone housing is in the way while grinding from the left.

There is also this type: https://www.amazon.de/Bandschleifer-Tellerschleifer-station%C3%A4ren-Ryobi-rbds4601g/dp/B073V5L71L/

Which often have the problem that one side is not accesible to the edge which makes using them awkward.

Lastly something like this: https://www.amazon.de/Metabo-601750000-BS-175-Kombi-Bandschleifmaschine/dp/B003U3U2SY/

Which still has the problem with the wheel housing but has longer belts and a stronger motor and the arm is adjustable. But as it is a rather uncommon size belts are rather expensive imho.