(Part 3) Top products from r/lockpicking

Yeah, I'm trying to save money on it too. What padlock brand/model are you disassembling? Field stripping this Kwikset is the first thing I did when I got it. Very nice to gain that familiarity with the workings before attacking it.

I went about making the picks by printing a Romstar template, matching scale to the ruler in inches on the print-out. Cut out the desired tools and glued them each to a ~5" long section of feeler stock (1/2" wide x 0.02" thick, meant for testing tolerances in machine shops and production lines. 0.02-0.025" is supposed to be the thickness for North American keyways.)

After glue drying, I clamped the feeler stock in a horizontal position in this small vice, and then used EZ Lock Metal Cut-off wheels @~30k RPM to generate a rough shape (Cat#EZ456, should be able to find for $2 per wheel or less, or even cheaper off-brand products). The slower you go and the less you remove at a time, the longer your wheel will last and the less likely you are to overheat the steel (which can cause weaknesses). I used long, light strokes down the whole 5" of feeler for every pass, removing sub-millimeter quantities each time.

I left about 0.5mm of the white paper surrounding the printed tool template, so that I could more cautiously produce the final tool shape with an aluminum oxide grinding wheel (Dremel 952,932,etc). I clamped the Dremel 4300 down to the counter with the bit hanging over the sink, and then hand-held the tool while using the length of the grinding wheel to remove some of the mountains and valley produced by the very thin metal cutting wheel. Holding the pick while leaving the Dremel clamped made it easy to affect how much metal was being removed with small changes in force applied. I used the corners of the grinding wheel to remove away the final material around the snake/hook/half-diamond business end. The same wheel was then used to remove rough spots and round out the edges.

Finishing used some 240 grit sand paper and then a felt buffing wheel with abrasive compound. All these Dremel items came in this Dremel 4300 kit I was gifted a while back. I have a feeling a bench grinder will do a much faster, cleaner job -- but we've all got to start somewhere! :-D

Edit: I'm in the same situation with the recording. Still have to get my white belt yet though! :-D I'll have to figure out a good spot for my phone, or maybe use my webcam. I agree on the cam, never hurts to have a cheap Logitech cam around.

Awesome job!

Not to dimish the feeling of success at all, because I distinctly remember the feeling of popping that first lock but-- I would recommend trying some more advanced locks soon. The Master 3 can literally be picked with a zip tie. While it can be a good learning tool, it's probably more beneficial to move to something like this

Sorry, didn't mean the actual link was incorrect, I meant the description on that page. It describes it as having a pin-tumble locking mechanism but I'm pretty sure that's a warded lock. At least the [brass lock] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Master-Lock-1950EURD-Padlock-Adjustable/dp/B0016LXPI6) you link to has a pin-tumble locking mechanism. Not that Master pin-tumbler locking mechanisms are all that great, but they're better than warded locks.

You could have saved if you got everything off Amazon:

Dremel 4000 = $73

15 100mm x 3mm brass rods = $8

36 Sheets of sandpaper = $8

Flex Shaft = $20

12 Euro Tools Needle Files = $14

2 Day trial of Amazon Prime (Includes free 2 day shipping) = $2

The files are more expensive than the $3 ones you find in Harbor Freight but you get two of every nice and sharp profile Including the Knife that helps you to get into tight spaces to make things like ASSA Gin Spools!

You can get some good (for practise) Masterlocks on Amazon for pretty cheap. Apparently the safety locks are really good for practise as they have some security pins in them.

http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-40DPF-Shielded-Stainless/dp/B00004SQKX

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001927I94/ref=mp_s_a_1_sc_2?qid=1458397269&sr=8-2-spell&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=master+safrty+lock&th=1&psc=1
Try these out

Aluminum isn't a good material for security. A corrosive area , LOTO yes... but you can cut it with a jr. Hack saw. If you want something that is the best bang for your buck then you want something like this. It has a full 6 pin KIK cylinder and anti drill pins and a spinning plate. Is does have a pretty thick shackle though.


https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Hardware-2-5-Inch-Hardened-Security/dp/B001V5IYSS?th=1&psc=1

This is what I would put on my locker. if Walmart was out of masterlocks.

• Practical Lockpicking - highly recommended, covers almost everything
  
  
• Keys to the Kingdom - great book on impressioning
  
  
• Complete Book of Locksmithing - highly recommended
  
  
• Locks Safes & Security - If you want to go off the deep end
  
  These books combined with the eBooks / resources in the stickied post will keep you busy for the next 10 years or so.

Indeed! Those are great ideas!

I just found this saw which is 40 teeth per inch with a kerf thickness of .0165", and says it works with metal. That seems promising, and relatively inexpensive.

I'm trying to not buy too many tools since I'm away from my workshop until late summer, and right now I'm basically working out of the equivalent of a hotel room.

I really like the Stanley locks personally. They are rekeyable, bit an arm and a leg, and really nice. I own three of them. (2 60mm padlocks and a 50mm with shackle guard). The 50mm is under 16.00 even. Here are the three I have purchased that I am really happy with:

50mm w/ shackle guard

60mm w/ shackle guard

60mm fat padlock

That being said, if it is a storage unit that is enclosed, I would have no problem using a normal Chateaux discus lock. I use the Chateaux C970 discus lock, but now that I have found the 50mm stanley with shackle guard I am going to start using them since they are actually a little cheaper than the Chateaux and gives me the option to key it any way I like (thanks to the removable cylinder).

HTH

Irwin Tools Clamp-On Vise, 3", 226303 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001LQY44/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0Rk6BbQFA72CC

I grabbed this for 25 bucks. I just clamp it to my table with a piece of wood (to hopefully avoid marks) and it works fine for what I need.

You can get a heavier duty one with a base for not too much, but I like the portability. I can carry this in my backpack if I want to.

/u/mustangsal is right. The cheap "fire-safe" boxes they sell on Amazon like this one are rated for how many minutes they can withstand a normal fire, but they're not really designed to keep your items theft proof, as someone can walk away with the box and shim the lock in a matter of seconds. The example I've given in the link is rated for 30 minutes. As everyone else mentioned, you need a giant metal safe that's bolted to the joist if you want actual theft prevention.

Thanks! I just ordered a decent set of picks from sparrow, and will be looking into buying a new lock to test out ($50 gone in an eyeblink). Is this the next step up that you're talking about? [Masterlock 150?](https://smile.amazon.com/Master-Lock-150D-Brass-Padlock/dp/B00004SQL8/ref=sr_1_1?s=hardware&ie=UTF8&qid=1481308906&sr=1-1&keywords=masterlock+150

You could always get a MTL Jr KIK from amazon and put it in a KIK padlock and start working on purple, too :)

Yeah, those picks he linked to are for padlocks. I have a set in my pick kit.

99.9% chance you can use a key from the classic Lucky Line skeleton key set and it'll work.

I didn't mention many Abus models because you likely have access to those at home. Wasn't sure if the Brady LOTO was one you'd have easy access to, and it's a bit hard to find it on Amazon selling just one instead of a 6-pack, so here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XU7Q74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You mean something like this? That looks nice, and is reasonably priced.

Yeah it's kind of interesting, but it was El cheapo on the Canuckistani amazon at only $35

https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B004LYRECI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2-tezbPZ6YH9K

> https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Hardware-2-Hardened-Security-Shackle/dp/B001V5IYWE

Yes. That's the one.

Get an American padlock like this one: http://www.amazon.com/American-Lock-A5200GLKA-Government-Padlock/dp/B001NCBWFG/

This Stanley is suppose to be a decent one to get started on. It has some security pins. I dont know exactly what kinds though

I use a simple Hobby Vice. It has served me well.

I have this which does the job but obviously this is UK Amazon.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-VC17-Multi-Angle-Vice/dp/B000LFTOHY/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1483030070&sr=8-5&keywords=desk+vice

not sure. is that important?

edit : a quick search on my secret database reveals that its likely a 380T.

If you have amazon prime (or know somebody who does), you can get a 410 shipped to your door for a dollar cheaper than shipping the loto to and from someone in a small flat rate box.

$13.38 here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001927I94/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486729250&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=loto+lock&dpPl=1&dpID=41wPCEGNMrL&ref=plSrch

Flat rate box is $7.15 * 2 = $14.30.

Mul T Lock Jrs KiKs are cheap right now on Amazon.

Xacto Razor Saw from Amazon for $10.

This is the lock you're referring to right?

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Hardware-2-Hardened-Security-Shackle/dp/B001V5IYWE

ABUS 83AL/45-300 S2 Schlage Rekeyable Padlock Aluminum Body with 1-Inch Shackle, Silver Zero-Bitted

The Brady/Abus 71/40 LOTO is green belt and relatively cheap... https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XU7Q74/

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B000LFTOHY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502453731&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=silverline+vc17&dpPl=1&dpID=41JvJzhWOhL&ref=plSrch

How about these?http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004SQL0/ref=mw_dp_mdsc?dsc=1&qid=1394033259&sr=8-14

>Flex Shaft

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000302Y8/

Non-mobile: like this one

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

Locks, Safes and Security: An International Police Reference (2 volume set) https://www.amazon.com/dp/0398070792/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_eXW-zb5BDJHVY


Don’t steal things.

The 410 is worth buying off of amazon outright, whether you pick, collect, or both (me). Its' "learning curve" is probably the best I've ever seen in a lock (def. in my top 3 anyway), and I own about 70 different models (some not featured, a couple after that pic). It'll take several hours to pop it the first time, but once you do you'll crack it faster and faster. Very cathartic that first time :'‑D Plus it looks cool as fuck and has quite a few interesting design artifacts from it's true purpose (one key, key retaining, destructible, zero counter tension, kick-ass labeling, etc). One of the few cores master has actually gotten right.

A much harder one (for me at least) is their 911, but I've yet to crack the little bastard; think I need just to 'get back to basics' and scrape off my rust.

Dude. I am pissed. Check this out.

http://www.masterlock.com/business-use/product/3

That's ten for some reason and this:
http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-Lockout-Different-Clearance/dp/B007NZSQFQ

Only costs 7?

That's a four Pinner costing $10 and a six Pinner with security pins for $7

The American lock is going to be the Gary to your Ash for a while. You will need a decent amount of practice before you can tackle it but here's the secrets to opening one for the day you're ready:

• You want top of the keyway tension. Preferably with a prybar (best ones here and here). The amount of pressure you'll be putting on the wrench will barely put a dent on the skin of your finger.
  
  
• When you pick, your goal will NOT be setting one stack at a time. Your goal will instead be looking for feedback. This might sound confusing, but the American lock has security pins on the top ("driver" pins) and security pins on the bottom ("key" pins). If your goal is to set a stack, then you will very likely overset it and bind on the keypin.
  
  
• When looking for feedback, gently run your pick across the stacks. If you feel the tension wrench vibrate while scraping in a certain area, the binding driver pin is caught between the plug and the housing (Diagram here).
  
  
• GENTLY lift. Pins in the American lock are nasty. You want enough pressure to only get ONE click. Once you get that click, keep moving and keep looking for feedback. Internally, it should look like this. Notice how he's not looking to raise each stack to the shear line, instead, he's searching for feedback every time he gets a click.
  
  
• Be confident. That lock is just pieces of metal. You just gotta move some pieces out of the way to open it up, and that's it. You'll pop that American lock in no time after some practice!
  
  If you want a good list of locks to lead you progressively up to the 1100, here's my list:
  
  
• Master No. 3 (or Chinese variant). Walmart usually has these. Generally 4 pins.
  
  
• Master 150: 2-3 spools, just to get a feel for them. 5 pins.
  
  
• Master 570: No spring tension on the core, get your introduction to "top of the keyway" (TOK) tension here.
  
  
• Abus 72/40 or variant. You want something with 6 pins and at least 4 spools. This will teach you the importance of dealing with restricted keyways. You may need a slimline pick in 0.015". I personally use the Euro hook from Sparrows. Alternatively, SouthOrd has a Slimline set of picks for this occasion. Peterson too.
  
  
• Master 410 Lock-Out-Tag-Out ("LOTO"): No spring tension on core, 5 pins, and a mix of serrated and spools. What their typical pins look like here.
  
  
• Master 6835: Same guts as above, but with heavy spring tension. This will teach you to test vary your tension as you pick.
  
  Now you should be ready to kick that American 1105's ass!

https://www.amazon.com/Lucky-Line-87202-Skeleton-Keys/dp/B000LNQO8I these ones should do the trick. Worst case, a bit of filing where the key rubs.

What do you mean with incorrect link?

I did some research, and found this on masterlocks home-page

It is an adjustable shackle, so it can be used to lock more stuff, apparently... I'd say the cuts will weaken the shackle a lot, making it useless against a hammer, but.. I'm no security expert :P

At least this thing I can imagine being weaker by a lot....