(Part 2) Top products from r/oilpainting
We found 11 product mentions on r/oilpainting. We ranked the 28 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the products ranked 21-40. You can also go back to the previous section.
21. Weber Hypo-Allergenic Turpentine Substitute Turpenoid, Artist Paint Thinner and Cleaner, 1 qt, White
Sentiment score: 0
Number of reviews: 1
Recognized by artists as the #1 odorless, volatile and thin turpentine substituteSame painting properties and drying time as turpentineOdorless - does not have the strong odor like turpentine hasCompatible with oil and alkyd colors as a painting vehicle either alone or in mediums without affecting c...
22. Fredrix Canvas Pads 9 in. x 12 in.
Sentiment score: -1
Number of reviews: 1
Affordable alternative to stretched canvas10 sheets of medium texture canvas bound into an easily portable padTriple-primed with acrylic gessoSuitable for oil and acrylic painting as well as pastels and most mixed media9-x-12-inch
23. Princeton Brush-Princeton Series 9000 Brown Handled Brush, Set of 7, for Acrylic, Oil and Watercolor-Mixed Media Paintbrushes
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Sold as Set of 7 varied shapes and sizes. Paintbrushes for all your mixed media art needsPrinceton Brush Golden Taklon Short Handle Set Of 7-synthetic fiber bristles for mixed media usePrinceton Brand-good quality at a low price as alwaysBest for student work and in educational settings-Art Educatio...
24. ARTEZA Watercolor Paper 9x12 Inch, Pack of 2, 64 Sheets (140lb/300gsm), Cold Pressed Art Sketchbook Pad for Painting & Drawing, Wet, Mixed Media
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Value 2-Pack: Many watercolor sketchbooks offer just 12 sheets max. But your Arteza set gives you two 9"x12" pads – 64 sheets in all (32 in each) – so you can play with techniques & effects to your heart's content.Premium Paper, Affordably Priced: Why spend a fortune? Your Arteza watercolor pape...
25. The New Munsell® Student Color Set 3rd Edition
Sentiment score: 1
Number of reviews: 1
Interactive charts and chipsComprehensive textbookFully illustrated with diagrams and photos
To be honest, $40 won't get you much as far as quality paints go. Just one 37mL tube of paint (depending on the color, of course) costs between $15-40. Sure, student grade paints are cheaper, but that's also because they're for students - impure pigments, cheaper binders, rougher body. However, u/444Rob444's suggestion is great, as Gamblin is an excellent company. I wouldn't want to use those paints myself, but the reviewers seem really happy with them. My other suggestion would be to buy her a book on oil painting. This one is my favorite, although it's astronomically expensive on Amazon. :(
Is this the book you’re referring to?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/1501327526
I saw many books under the name “Munsell” and wanted to be sure.
> I personally hardly ever use straight black onto my palette I usually mix it.
Gamblin’s founder expressed the same and made a “Chromatic Black,” which is a mixture of Quinacridone Red and Phthalo Emerald. I haven’t used it yet but I picked up a tube recently.
> But I have a friend who mixes 1-10 value scale on his palette when painting to get very scientific on what shade and tint for each one of his mixtures he wants.
Woah. Is that where the book comes in? How does one go about doing that?
As for the pigments, I just recently bought a ton of Gamblin colors, but my starter set is Utrecht. I plan to go all Gamblin, but don’t want to waste the many multiple Utrecht tubes I was gifted.
Except for the Utrecht starter tubes which I have to go home to account for, I have:
I read about differences with Titanium White and Zinc White, and even a Titanium Zinc White, so I hoped to know more from experience about mixing with the two.
I think that book might be the older version. But I’m not quite sure. The New Munsell® Student Color Set 3rd Edition https://www.amazon.com/dp/1609011562/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jOZJBb32FK7MW
This is the copy I own.
The technique that my friend uses actually isn’t in the book. This book mostly focuses on the actual pigments in the paint, what color theory (we use as painters) for mixtures and color logic. Saturation and intensity as well as chroma.
The 1-10 value mixing is a fairly old technique, I have a feeling you would be able to find more information about it online, I’ll search to see if maybe my friend can send me some information.
You have a really large range of pigments on your palette. I think you should read about complimentary colors, and analogous colors. That will help greatly with mixing. For when you mix complimentary colors you can make all those greys you have on your palette.
If you read your tube of paints it will actually tell you what pigments are in it, as well as the oil they used to bind that paint together. If you look up the pigment on the tube, for instance you might have a blue that says PB for purple blue then a number on it which describes the intensity value and saturation from straight out the tube.
There’s just so much science into this it’s easy to get lost. I’d recommend maybe cutting down your palette to a smaller portion that way you really familiarize yourself with your mixtures. If not, I’d recommend making a giant color chart to see.
I’m fairly knew to reddit and I don’t really know how to maneuver around and such, but if you send me a personal message with your email I can send you documents and exercises of paint
I think we have talked about this before but Odorless Mineral Spirits is a solvent that is pretty low in toxicity (you would have to drink it or continually huff it in a small room to get sick from it).
When you said that you are using Cobra oil do you mean that is the brand of oil paint that you are using? If so, you don't need linseed oil. Linseed oil is added to oil paint to extend drying time and lower viscosity. If the paints you are using are water soluble not only will the linseed oil probably give you problems mixing but you could just use water to lower the viscosity of the paint.
I always recommend these artists loft brushes. However if you have a Michael's near you buy them directly from the store. I use them all the time but the store price is $5. I wouldn't buy them for $8.99. However if you are looking to go a step up Princeton is a good brand. I consider brush quality less important than paint quality so really I would just recommend a couple synthetic bristle brushes (Taklon) and a couple hog hair brushes (you can use synthetic hog hair). The Taklon will give you nice smooth strokes and the hog hair will give you texture and make it easier to push around thicker paint.
*note: when you first use a brush you will almost always have a few bristles fall out no matter the quality.
The order of operations you are using to draw will work for oil painting fine.
I've never painted on wood with oil, only acrylics. I'm intrigued tho. I use Arteza Watercolor paper (I bought exactly this: https://www.amazon.com/ARTEZA-Watercolor-Pressed-Painting-Sketchbook/dp/194757504X)
I am one of those people who don't like completely smooth haha. I like my paper gritty lol.
I use odorless turpentine which is a solvent substitute. I choose that because it doesn’t give off any smell and is safer to use than other solvents. I would recommend that to start if you can get your hands on it. If not linseed oil works just the same.
I do not believe olive oil or sunflower oil will work. They MIGHT thin your paint but they will not dry well (or at all) and they will likely yellow the painting if they do dry.
I have been using canvas pads to practice; they are much less expensive than canvases. I haven't tried priming them, but they're handy for getting the same sensation. [Nine bucks for ten sheets, no shill.](https://www.amazon.com/Fredrix-Canvas-Pads-12/dp/B000YQEBPA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1524680115&sr=8-4&keywords=canvas+painting+pad)