(Part 3) Top products from r/sffpc

Hi everyone,

I wanted to share my build in the M1. I knew I wanted to do a build in this case the moment I saw it. I fell in love with the potential to have power, low noise, and portability in one case. I spent a ton of time researching to find the best way to achieve my goal. I ended up settling with a be quiet! Dark Rock TF as my cooler for the 4790k and an Arctic Accelero III on my 1070. As you can see in the pictures, the Dark Rock TF is mounted with the large heatpipes facing the PSU, meaning that I was also able to fit a Noctua NF-A15 on the right side of the side bracket (not pictured). I stress tested with x264 and with the 4790k at 4.5GHz (1.25v) and 4.6GHz (1.29v). The temperatures were pretty hot, 83 degrees and 88 degrees Celsius respectively. These are still 'safe' but hotter than I wanted. I ended up de-lidding my CPU and put Coollaboratory Liquid Ultra between the dye and the IHS and NT-H1 between the IHS and Dark Rock TF. This dropped the stress test temepratures to 70 and 75 degrees, a 13 degree drop! I'm controlling fan speeds with Speedfan and both fans hit max RPM at 65 degrees. For the TF's fans that's 1350 RPM (still pretty quiet) and I'm using the low noise adapter for the A15 which makes it max at 900 RPM.

My 1070 is an EVGA Gaming ACX 3.0. I bought this stock-clock version over the SC by mistake (whoops..). The stock cooler was too loud for me, so I got the Arctic Accelero III. I chose the III over the IV because it comes with mini heatsinks for the 1070's VRMs and VRAM. The III comes with thermal adhesive (glue) for said heatsinks but I was not a fan of this more permanent application (plus it was completely hardened when I got it). So I bought some thermal tape. Works great.
I'm using NF-F12s in an exhaust confgiuration under the Accelero's heatsink. The fan curve on the GPU is very passive. I overclocked the 1070 core clock to +185 and memory clock to +450 on stock voltage (max power limit). I tried running the fans as intake for all positive pressure inside the case which resulted in a temperature of 66 degrees in Unigine Heaven. As exhaust, the temperature dropped to 61 degrees.

So, some more numbers for you. To get an idea of max temps on both CPU and GPU, I ran Heaven and x264 at the same time. The GPU was overclocked to +185 core and +450 memory on both tests. CPU was tested on both 4.5GHz (1.25v) and 4.6GHz(1.28v).


CPU 4.5GHZ: 74 degrees max
GPU: 61 degrees max


CPU 4.6GHz: 79 degrees max
GPU: 61 degrees max


Also, because the GPU temps were so low, it still boosted to above 2000mhz thanks to Nvidia GPU Boost! As you can see, the increase in CPU voltage and temps didn't affect the GPU at all.

I also installed a custom power switch. I bought this vandal switch and this cable to rig it up which worked, but the spade style connectors on the cable didn't secure very well and would end up getting lose and touch one another and turning off the PC. I ended up cutting them off and soldering the wire to the switch.

After all this I can say that I'm finally happy with my build! Thanks for reading!

And sorry for the cable mess! I'll clean it up... sometime...


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price
:----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | Purchased For $280.00
CPU Cooler | be quiet! DARK ROCK TF 67.8 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler | Purchased For $75.00
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-Z97N-WIFI Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard | Purchased For $100.00
Memory | Corsair Vengeance LP 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | Purchased For $45.00
Storage | Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | Purchased For $80.00
Storage | Crucial MX300 525GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | Purchased For $105.00
Storage | Crucial MX300 525GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | Purchased For $105.00
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB ACX 3.0 Video Card | $360.00
Power Supply | Corsair SF 600W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular SFX Power Supply | Purchased For $119.99
Case Fan | Noctua NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan | Purchased For $18.00
Case Fan | Noctua NF-F12 PWM 55.0 CFM 120mm Fan | Purchased For $18.00
Case Fan | Noctua NF-A15 PWM 140mm Fan | Purchased For $20.00
Other| NCASE M1| Purchased For $185.00
Other| Arctic Accelero III| $40.00
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1550.99
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-01-20 16:41 EST-0500 |

Thanks so much! I was really happy with how the color came out as well! it's hard to tell in the album but there is actually a sparkle on the finished powdercoat.... under the right light it just POPS I love it! Also the MSI Ventus card and custom cables match so nicely.... I really am impressed with the bag as well. My first time fitting it into the case was yesterday for the photo album I posted... I will leave a link to it for you here:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0192JLIUU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm really happy to be part of the Sliger club and many thanks!

1. If you're talking about the wifi chip itself: you can buy an Intel module, they're much better and not expensive: (https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Wireless-Ac-9260-2230-Gigabit/dp/B079QJQF4Y/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=intel+9260&qid=1565244718&s=electronics&sr=1-4), and replacing it is quite easy, although you need to do it carefully: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V4DUIlJYBRc
   
2. I have the same mobo and had the same problem. Ryzen 3000 has a very high thermal density (the amount of heat generated isn't higher than the previous gen/Intel chips, it's actually lower but it's generated in a smaller area, making it harder to cool) so it's simply gonna be hotter, even with the best cooler, even though it uses less power than Intel. That's simply the result of the 7nm process, you'll see the same when Intel has 10nm figured out. My solution (I have a Noctua NH-u12s): for the CPU I used the Noctua silent mode PWM cable, or whatever it's called, capping the CPU cooler to 80%. You should have one included with your A9x14 fan. For the case fans I got a Noctua fan controller. I was considering it any way as I like my case fans at a constant speed, and this motherboard doesn't seem to allow for that (except if you set them at 100%...). It's the samllest fan controller I know of, but you might have problems in your case. The controller connects to SATA for power, and optionally connects to another PWM header. Then you have the contoller itself, and it has one output PWM header, and the controller comes with a 3 way splitter. All this adds considerable bulk. I have a large SFF case (InWin A1 Plus) so it wasn't a problem, but your case is smaller, so look if you can fit the controller somewhere. based on the pictures I think it won't be a problem.
   
3. yes, your temps are normal, about the same as my 3700X (I'm at 40 idle, 75 gaming, 90 intel burn test, but I have a bigger case and cooler than you). If you want lower temps, you could lower the power target PPT. Someone at /r/amd or /r/sffpc (don't remember which sub) did some testing and found out you can scale power consumption down favorably (something like -30% power = -10% performance in cinebench). By default your CPU will be at 88W. You could try 75W and see what that does to your temps and performance.
   
4. dunno, I know nothing about the case/brand

I just wanna say the Noctua NH-U9S is awesome. I can't believe this little 95w TDP rated cooler can punch so high above its weight.

I'm pleased to report that a delidded 8700k/ASUS ROG STRIX z370-I combo will run great at 5Ghz (3 Offset) on the NCASE M1 with a Noctua NH-U9S with a single fan, an identical NF-A9 PWM as rear exhaust (Y splitter with the NH-U9's fan into the CPU fan header), and a single 120mm Noctua high static pressure fan as intake on the side panel.

VCORE is offset to produce 1.344v under load

Ambient Temp: 24°

Motherboard Idle: 34°C

CPU Idle: 34°C

Motherboard Load: 43°C

CPU Gaming Load: 65°C average, 71°C highest logged

CPU Prime95 26.6 Load: 82°C highest logged (same with Handbrake encodes, Aida64, and Blender)

This replaced a Corsair H100i V2 that I was not comfortable with because of the high motherboard temperatures (50°C) and even VRM throttling due to lack of airflow. I traded 15°C in CPU cooling performance for an overall cooler and quieter running system and I am happy. These days I'm more concerned about VRM and overall system temperature than I am about having the lowest possible CPU temperature. As long as I reach my overclocking goal, I'm perfectly fine with CPU temperatures in the low 80°C on unrealistic stress testing. It seems in such a small case its almost a zero-sum game of trading CPU cooling for system cooling: you either keep your CPU cool, your system cool, or find a happy medium.

One observation: really hope motherboard manufacturers start taking VRM cooling more seriously. A stylized metal block is not enough, we need good proper heatsinks with fins and heat-pipes if we wanna continue overclocking high core count CPU's inside small, airflow constrained SFF cases.

As far as I can tell, the flex atx psu sits where the GPU wants to be in standard orientation. You could replace the PSU with a picoPSU and use that space, but then you run into the height restriction inherent in this design. The case is only 3.375" high. As you can see in this photo, a standard low profile GPU measures 3.125" above the motherboard tray. It sound like it would fit, except for this photo. A standard atx i/o panel measures 6.26" x 1.76". The opening begins .093" below the bottom of the motherboard and .534" form the end of the motherboard. As you can see, InWin shifted the motherboard panel upwards in order to allow for hdd/ssd placement. As a result, you can't use the PCI-e slot without significant mods.

However, If you were willing to use the picoPSU, which is more powerful than the included PSU, then you could use a riser cable to shift the GPU over and down. A standard low profile GPU measures roughly 1.5" x 2.75" x 6.7". A flexATX PSU measures 1.59" x 3.21" x 5.9". You'd have to come up with some way to hold the GPU in place. When I work with LP GPUs, I find velcro works perfectly. LP GPUs tend to have low cooling requirements and as a result, use light aluminum fin arrays.

The one thing I would caution you about is the choice of riser cable. For instance, I frequently use the ModDIY when space isn't an issue. It's cheap and effective. It will also extend beyond the GPU by about .5". When space is an issue, the I use the HDPlex riser. as you can see, it extends beyond the GPU by the tiniest bit. This is what you should use.

Hope this helps.

Hey all! So my friends and I have a LAN party every couple of months or so, and this was one of my major incentives for downsizing and going SFF. Well, downsizing made me realize that my bag game is shite. I was using my old LL bean backpack from elementary school (I'm 31 now) to hold the Sliger SM560, some wires, and my mouse and controller, and a separate bag for my mousepad, keyboard, and anything that didn't fit in the first backpack. This needed to change.


I did a lot of digging and purchased some bags that were not a great fit, then I stumbled upon this gem. Only 25 bucks, decently padded, and can fit my entire LAN getup in one bag. This thing is GREAT! I fit my tower, keyboard, mousepad, controller, and USB cables/dongles in the main chamber (there's little pockets for the USB stuff), and then my mouse, headset, power cables display cables, and ethernet in the front pouch. This thing ROCKS.

Here's the link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0192JLIUU

So the GPU is overclocked with stock fan curve, I have one EK Vardar fan at 700rpm under the GPU and under full GPU load my max temp has been 71c with a room temp of 22c.

On the CPU side I am using the wraith spire and currently CPU is stock speed as it runs at 3.8gh all core under gaming and it maxes out at 60c, I'm using the new graphite thermal pad instead of thermal past and am loving it and it can be reused over and over again. This is the link if your interested, I got the 30x30 but the 40x40 will fit ryzen better but it probably does not make a difference.

Innovation Cooling Graphite Thermal Pad – Alternative to Thermal Paste/Grease (30 X 30mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CKVW18G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pWlVCbTD5FD1V

With the stock wraith stealth I was getting about 72c and under on gaming loads. And keep in mind ryzen loves memory speed almost more then pure CPU overclock. I pushed my corsair c16 3200mh ram to 3466 with no issues at all and picked up more performance then a 4gh all core overclock and less heat.

50C on idle doesn't sound right. My 2200G is about 30C with stock cooler (about 1500rpm though). I would try to reapply paste.

PSU switch look like 10 minutes. And that mostly because it's hard to remove motherboard with everything attached.

• Buy https://www.amazon.ca/40x10mm-Bearing-Premium-Cooling-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M
  
• Remove PSU. 2 bolts: one at the back, one on the side from the side where 2.5" drives are.
  
• Open PSU. There are a couple of pretty obvious screws. Box opens like a lid.
  
• Unscrew and yank stock fan out. Connector had glue on it, so I had to scrape it off.
  
• Install Noctua fan. Route its cable with the rest of cables that come out from PSU.
  
• Plug Noctua into your motherboard. Use included low-noise adapter cable for best results.

You could always put the io at the back, put a vinyl decal to cover the bottom (now front) and add some feet with a 90° PSU cable connector.

$10 for vinyl wrap or a cut to size sheet of acrylic and some double sided tape.... Or leave it is is lol

• if it was me, I'd do a sheet of acrylic and cover the whole front of the case down to the table so you don't see the PSU cable sticking out of the bottom of the case from the front view... Keeps it cleaner looking
  
  $10- Tall adhesive feet (could go shorter for cheaper, but you want them tall to fit the PSU extension)
  
  $3 low profile PSU extension (these are lower profile than what you'll find on Amazon... I spent a few days looking lol) Other super low profile connectors can be found on taobao and purchased through super buy
  
  So an additional ~$25 to make it work... But that's up to you if you want to go that route. :)

Looking at exactly the same combo with the ncase m1 - ordered the 2080 Ti, waiting for the 9900k + a mini-itx board now, but looking at going the aircooling route, most likely a noctua U9S with NF-A9s. Not planning to overclock as mostly going to be used for gaming. Hoping to get an opinion on whether an Accelero will help further lower temps, or better to stick with stock?

That pic isn't from my build but I copied it exactly (besides the GPU). I didn't think of putting a 4th fan between the HDD and the plate. Thanks for the response.

I currently have 3x http://amzn.com/B00KFCR5BA fans, for the one on the HDD i'm wondering if there is a thinner fan with that kinda of quality? maybe this: http://amzn.com/B00NOTVCUQ

Only change I would make, component wise, is memory at or above 3000mhz and perhaps 16gbs. Ryzen likes higher Mhz and you will see small performance bump.

Here area few videos for the Node 202 that can help walk you through the build.

Science Studio

Jayz Two Cents



Also keep in mind the L9i is made for intel cpus and requires a separate AM4 bracket.

Looks fine, the one thing you might look into is a 1 tb m.2 drive, as they're getting pretty cheap on amazon and would offer some space savings and potentially better system speeds.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073SB2MXT/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

intel nuc sounds perfect for you

I think this one is the best atm https://smile.amazon.com/Intel-Machine-NUC8i7HVK-Radeon-Graphics/dp/B07BR5GK1V?sa-no-redirect=1

Yes, but Noctua sells a mounting kit separately to use it with AM4.
https://www.amazon.es/gp/product/B073PXM4P8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They will send you one for free if you request on the website - but the page was down after the chromax.Black launch, so i just bought it with the cooler on Amazon.

Same problem I had. I ended up buying a pair of these, mostly for the small size. Performance is great for use in the house. Just have to break off the male pin in the center, which is pretty easy to do with a small screw driver.

These are the nf-12s right?

Noctua NF-F12 PWM chromax.Black.swap, Premium Quiet Fan, 4-Pin (120mm, Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07654PNFQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zwDVDbXPJX2R0

I just want to make sure this is the right model and right dimensions since I'm slightly dyslexic. Your fans look tall and I want to make sure I get those that you have.

My friend's Cougar has the fans set up similar to how u/PhattyR6 suggests (two 120mm intakes under the gpu but one rear exhaust vs top) along with a Noctua NH-U9S and his machine is nearly silent under heavy load. By using the 120mm fan in the rear for exhaust, it is almost like running two fans on the Noctua tower cooler as they are nearly directly in-line with each other (like a wind tunnel) so is very effective.

this is the fan

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-Cooling-Blades-Bearing-NF-A4x10/dp/B009NQLT0M

the fan comes with crimps so you can cut the existing fan in the psu and crimp all 3 cables with the noctua fan.

Nope! Amazon.co.uk

It's the only one that would ship. Comes to about $100 but it shipped from Germany. Says it's gonna be here on Sept. 2nd but it's been moving really quickly.

And I just saw that prototype one and I'm definitely picking that one up.

I wish I knew how to use taobao and superbuy but I'm too nervous anyways even when I shouldn't be

It's a Mitac PH12SI-D. I had originally ordered a PH12SI-I, but it had a different power connector.

The PSU I use is an external 120W brick one that came with my Silverstone Thin-mini ITX case.

The board that was originally in this system was a Asus H110T/CSM, which was a nice board, but it has a Realtek NIC, which is complete garbage, as the secondary NIC. It didn't have a PCI Express slot, but it did have dual M.2 slots.

I don't know anything about Hackintosh or Apple.

I would suggest against using that spongy tape you have there. Something like https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LYO3PK9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 would transfer heat a lot better I would think. I'd also try to not cover up or have anything touch the fins.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NOTVCUQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is what I use for my gpu in the Node 202. They work great for me!

I'm using a similar one myself. And please read carefully - you have to buy the external power supply separately.

For US folks, silverstone makes a similar case with 120W DC-DC board as well:

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Thin-Mini-Aluminum-PT13B-120/dp/B01LVYKF5Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527472752&sr=8-1&keywords=mini+ITX+case+120W

Looks like the riser card broke during the moves.

If you want to continue traveling a lot with the node 202, I think it is worth trying to see if a riser cable like below works. Rigid structures like the card that comes with the Node 202 don't like a lot of flexing.

https://www.amazon.com/EZDIY-FAB-Express-PCIe3-0-Flexible-Extension/dp/B01CEKN5VO

I like these as a solution
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071ZVTCX6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bUywDbNH2R9G6
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VHAZ0KW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_yVywDbJY6JB2X

Oops! I didn't realize that, I only say the 25mm. That's why I asked this question lol. Should I rather get these similar metal feet or would you recommend these rubber feet? Maybe these feet instead?

You won't be able to use the riser for anything new. The PCI signals are different from PCI-E.

I would re-use the metal bracket, but switch to flexible PCI-E risers if you are using a newer motherboard: https://www.amazon.com/Express-Riser-Extender-Flexible-Extension/dp/B008BZBFTG

This will allow you to use the metal bracket, but connect modern cards/GPU's.

I recently purchased this one from Amazon. Honestly have not tested it yet though.

https://www.amazon.com/EZDIY-FAB-Express-PCIe3-0-Flexible-Extension/dp/B01CEKN5VO/ref=sr_1_10?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1522341954&sr=1-10&keywords=pcie%2Briser&th=1

Amazon says 21. But it isn't just about the cost. It's about having that own personal customizability anytime I want and not reliant on another if I ever want changes. I know how to work with wood as well.

Wow, I didn't know they actually advertised Intel Wifi. I bought this same exact board from the exact link you posted and mine also came with a Realtek card, which is complete and utter shit. I cannot emphasize how awful that card was; low reception and like 3 mbps download speed on 100 mbps internet. If I knew about the listed wifi I would have definitely complained on amazon.

Too late now though, since I already purchased an Intel 9260 with Bluetooth to replace that godawful realtek card.

Have you considered maybe getting a NUC? It's a small computer that would be easy to move around. This is a high end example of one.

Intel NUC 8 Performance-G Kit (NUC8i7HVK) - Core i7 100W, Add't Components Needed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BR5GK1V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IDjUCbGDDA1DJ

It does have dedicated graphics so it can do a little bit of games but there are cheaper ones without it. ( Since you said you didn't want to game on it )

I bought these and just sorta super glued them to the bottom: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075KZBR2Y?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd

I have a Cougar QBX Kaze, with an Aorus 1080ti, with no fans underneath and I usually don't go above 70c.

The HGST is plugged in using the standard cable. I couldn't double mount because of the way the SATA plug is (they don't bend and it's tricky.

The HGST was plugged in by soft mounting but not pushing it all the way down. It's secure, but not 100% locked in. That allows enough clearance for the power plug, though stresses the SATA cable a bit i'll get a right angle plug soon.

The Silverstone fans are these guys: http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Professional-Fine-Tuned-Performance-FN123/dp/B00NOTVCUQ (though I wish they made it in Red).

Here are my specs! Big thanks to the people over at the AMD OSX Discord, and the guide here for a Vanilla Ryzen Hackintosh.

PCPartPicker Part List

Type|Item
:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 7 1700 3 GHz 8-Core Processor
Motherboard | Gigabyte B450 I AORUS PRO WIFI Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard
Memory | Corsair Vengeance RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
Storage | WD Blue 1 TB M.2 SATA SSD
| ADATA SU650 960 GB 2.5" SSD
| PNY CS900 120 GB 2.5" SSD
Video Card | Gigabyte Radeon RX 580 8 GB Gaming 8G Video Card
Power Supply | Corsair SF 450 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply
Case | NCase M1 v5
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-09-04 02:05 EDT-0400

the smallest I know off the top of my head is the bitty-baby 40mm

It's on Amazon UK now, expensive though.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Thermalright-AXP-100-Full-Copper-900-2500rpm/dp/B07HFF29TK/

On Amazon for $80.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HFF29TK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9lp4Db8Y3Z480

I'm still looking for something similar on eBay to ship to Australia. Amazon isn't here yet.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B071ZVTCX6/ref=pd_aw_lpo_107_lp_img_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=QQR586TZ40S6W8HGM6E4

Which you can pick up from Amazon by the way https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B073PXM4P8/

The GTs are 4 pins.

My setup is graphics cards' fan header -> this -> this -> the GTs

>Can your card handle voltage control, or just PWM?

I'm not really sure but my card is the 1080 Ti FE.

You could just get splitters so you can connect 2 fans to one header.

Example

https://www.amazon.com/XRP-Express-Extender-Flexible-Extension/dp/B008BZBFTG

VIVO Single LCD Monitor Desk... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B21TLQU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Here you go my dude!

https://smile.amazon.com/Intel-Machine-NUC8i7HVK-Radeon-Graphics/dp/B07BR3HCZ3/
or
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07BR5GK1V/

2 x https://smile.amazon.com/Crucial-Single-PC4-21300-SODIMM-260-Pin/dp/B071KNKBQ1/

https://smile.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-500GB-2280SS-Internal/dp/B077SQ8J1V/

or you can get inwin chopin and put amd 2400g in it

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B21TLQU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_k9FvCb0GRV2EK

https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Monitor-Adjustable-Articulating-STAND-V001/dp/B00B21TLQU

Here you go op: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079QJQF4Y/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_jBWWDbZ5HE5PE

this is the one I'm using :

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NH0GW7Z/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ask and you shall recieve

Like this

https://smile.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-F12-chromax-Black-swap-Premium-Grade-Quiet/dp/B07654PNFQ/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=120mm+chromax&qid=1570051036&sr=8-6

UK bag, This is the one I got

US bag, You can get this one if you're in the US, creds to u/Nugmast3r for finding it

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Mini-STX-Computer-VT01B/dp/B01LVYKF5Y?th=1

You will need splitter, don't connect your fan directly to your PSU.

You can try that Graphite thermal pads, aren't they a bit thicker? Would this help? And they should be only one or two degrees worse than past from what i saw online

Innovation Cooling LLC IC Graphite Thermal Pad (30 X 30 mm) ... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07CKVW18G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_W6nwDbR5MPKP7

Hey OP! I've just ordered this Mobo in the mail and am confused on the M.2 options of this model.

Are both drives NVME, that would fit something like this one here or are either of them this style of M.2?

Sorry if dumb question, I'm not sure how to distinguish the two M.2 slots. I know the first link is NVME and second is not, but I don't know if there are different names for the two M.2 slots.

Has anyone ever tried these? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CKVW18G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
no need for thermal paste and uses a reusable pad instead

http://www.amazon.com/Express-Riser-Extender-Flexible-Extension/dp/B008BZBFTG

I'm not sure why his would be 90 bucks more. I'm sure it's higher qualityn but that's a hell of a premium.