Modified boating stuff:

A fuse box like this https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Block/dp/B001P6FTHC/ref=pd_bxgy_200_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001P6FTHC&pd_rd_r=X7BNG9NJZ9ZBBRRTJBR3&pd_rd_w=eatpQ&pd_rd_wg=QSpKm&psc=1&refRID=X7BNG9NJZ9ZBBRRTJBR3 which connects to this https://www.amazon.com/Marinco-On-Board-Charging-Inlets/dp/B000NI38MG/ref=pd_sbs_200_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01K9KDXOA&pd_rd_r=7194DMW9QGPTN4P39QBA&pd_rd_w=jkXDk&pd_rd_wg=IiMzj&refRID=7194DMW9QGPTN4P39QBA&th=1 connected with this https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Vinyl-Outdoor-Extension-Cord/dp/B00OS7ETIA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1525991665&sr=8-5&keywords=extension+cord. In fact some Skoolie people prefer using extension cords over romex entirely.

Our fuse box has a female plug coming off of it, allowing us to physically switch between sources - from battery to generator to shore power. To do 30/50 amp power is similar, but you need a lot more stuff, and is like wiring a house. I basically just added a fuse box to an extension cord. You drill a hole through the side of the bus to mount the second piece. It's pretty cool, to be honest.

Any RV owner will tell you that water is pernicious. Skoolies are the same way. You need to caulk your bus yearly - or at least go over it and look. We replaced the running lights, and did a wonderfully poor job of it, and I didn't caulk it. Then we walked on the roof, which the metal parts had no issue with, but the front of our bus is fiberglass and it separated from the metal, allowing a leak point.

Honestly, a cleaned and then painted roof (using Henry's RV paint for example) will make life very easy. You know how you can get by a couple years between coats of paint on your house? And how house roofs can go 15-30 years? Well, imagine if you drove your house around. It will need some attention before then. Just keep a can or three of silicone or paintable caulk on hand, and you'll be good.

Also, a very handy (if ugly) thing to get is butyl tape. Overpriced version is called flex seal, or you can hit up home depot for the roofing version. It's got a silvered back, and it's great at sealing holes... and sound proofing.

I no longer can put links in as words? I dislike the new reddit layout.

Toilet type issues can be solved easily and cheaply, but there are draw backs.

We have one of these - just a port-a-potty really. But until we get blackwater tanks and everything sorted this does the job.
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-41541-Portable-Toilet-gallon/dp/B004SFKJIQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501018052&sr=8-1&keywords=porta+potty


Running water? Get a manual pump that connects to a 5 gal water tank. https://www.amazon.com/Wealers-Camping-Gallon-Manual-Drinking/dp/B00QLRCTUU/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1501018150&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=manual+water+camping+pump

We started our build in May and we've camped in it twice now... each time it's less like camping and more like a home.

We have a fridge, 4 bunks, master bedroom, bathroom (walls only) shower (walls only) living area, kitchen (no water yet). We're probably $10k into it and I've been working on it an average of 10-20 hours a week every week since may.


Bus, RV and Van all have pros and cons.

One article that turned me onto a bus was http://www.technomadia.com/2011/06/why-a-bus/ Specifically the heading A Bus???

If you have room, time, money and know how and want to make something uniquely yours, a bus would be a good fit.

If you want to move into something right away an RV could work out nice.

If you both want something uniquely yours but have less time, money and space, van dwelling can be a nice step into this type of living.

Thanks for the detailed explanation!

>We used electric heat at first but running on 15amps instead of a 30 or 50 amp power source from campground

I'm building mine for shore power, but that's a really good point. Getting 120V is easy; getting more than 18A, not so much. (If only we had 220V...)

\> We're using 12v for everything we can

I'm leaning towards this as well - even on shore power. Gutting an RV or camper is by far the cheapest option for fixtures, and efficient 120-\>12V power supplies for server use are a dime a dozen.

\> I'm going to see if I can get a USB wifi card with awesome range and see if I can hop on that.

You want a [BIG damn 2.4 ghz antenna.](https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Directional-Parabolic-Connector-TL-ANT2424B/dp/B003CFATOW) In addition to boosting the signal in *both* directions (improving your card is worthwhile, but only for transmission!) it reduces noise - it can't "see" anything it's not pointing directly at. You can also build one with a soup can and a satellite dish.

Absolutely on windows. Works really well on the original bus windows. I always recommend resealing the original windows. This stuff is like 7 bucks for 30 ft on Amazon. The windows is a place where you can prevent air from creeping in, Atleast through the mounts. I also recommend it for aftermarket windows as well. Really recommend it for anything that you need to seal. It's great stuff.

Edit: here is the link
Dicor BT-1834-1 1/8" x 3/4" x 30' Butyl Seal Tape https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001FCB4JS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_W5MlDbBND9RNN

I'm not an expert in school buses, but in cars and trucks the factory uses seam sealer like this- product below. Its probably very strong, unless its in your way I would leave it or add to it.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-08505-Sealer-Cartridge-ounces/dp/B000PEWDKG?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-ffnt-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B000PEWDKG

To run your AC (and everything else, although they're really negligable) that long, you're going to need 37 100w solar panels. That's probably not going to fit on your bus, and by the sounds of it, it definitely won't fit your budget. Also, that 100w rating assumes that these panels are at a 90 degree angle to the sun. So, you'll need to tilt the panels. That also assumes you don't have losses from a crappy PWM solar controller. So, you're going to need MPPT controllers, which are expensive ($550 and way up). And you'll run four 6v Trojan T-105REs down to damaging levels in just two hours.

So, you're best bet is to either use your bus' engine as a generator, in which case I suggest an alternator to battery charger (These get much more power out of your alternator than a simple isolator will. They are well worth the money.) or buying a generator tied to a charge controller (You'll want/need the charge controller if you plan on plugging in anywhere anyway). The generator is by far more efficient (quieter and smells better), but you'll have to find a place for it, and store gasoline for it. It's more expensive up front, but cheaper in the long run.

Another tip would be to get a smaller AC unit. I'm in Texas where the weather is just as hot, if not as humid, and I'm running two 6,000btu window units. That way I can run one when I need to conserve power, and two when I can plug into "shore power" at a camp site or friend's house. New window units are cheap. And running just one of those will only cost you 7kW for the day instead of the astronomical 26kW you're talking about. I think my whole central air system at home uses less than 26kw a day, and I like it COLD!

With my setup that I'm building currently, I'm going to run the alternator to battery charger for when I'm driving (free power), 4x 250W solar panels on tilting racks, a MidNite Solar Classic 200 MPPT solar controller, a 3000w inverter/charge controller combo, 8x Trojan T-105REs, and a 30A shore power plug. I expect my total setup to cost me just under $5k. I also intend to add a second set of solar panels and solar controller next year to get another 1kW of solar up to need to run the bus engine less often.

Curious to see how much if any air from the hot exhaust migrates into the intake. Pink ribbon test held at various distances between the two holes when grills are/aren't attached? It looks like there is room to enlarge the intake hole higher and if there isn't any air migration, to the right. 100 degree intake might indicate some commingling so maybe not the right. Most of your big gains in performance may have already been made.

Another exhaust vent style.

Propane heater


Mr. Heater F232000 MH9BX Buddy 4,000-9,000-BTU Indoor-Safe Portable Propane Radiant Heater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002G51BZU/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_A6yDDb4CB1JKR

And for when it's hot , we hang on the Olympic peninsula

There is a manual impact driver that will work better than any electric driver. You basically put it on the screw then hit it with a hammer (preferably a dead blow hammer for best results) and it will literally break any screw loose, I’ve used one for many years in the navy on gun mounts when the screws were seized in place due to the rust.

The benefits are that it won’t strip the screws out and it’s cheap enough that you can pick it for about $20 or less at places like harbor freight.

The down side is that it can be hard to use sometimes when in a tight spot while trying to hit the head and it’s not as fast as an electric impact.

If I were you I would use the manual impact to break them loose then use the electric impact to speed up the removal. Here’s a amazon link so you can see what it looks like TEKTON 2905 3/8-Inch Drive Manual Hand Impact Driver Set, 7-Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPPATS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pxIZDbMCYSWGE

Thanks for the recommendation. Only issue is that my battery is 14V and all the related battery charging systems are 12V. I guess it shouldn't matter right?

Edit: shopping around I think I want a system with fairly high amperage that is designed for RV/ marine use. The only problem is the 12V/14V issue.

I'm between https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-022-0157-1-Waterproof-Charger/dp/B002DU3S9A/ref=sr_1_1?m=A2U296R8AN80PO&s=merchant-items&ie=UTF8&qid=1478634974&sr=1-1&keywords=Battery%2BTender%2B022-0157-1%2BWaterproof%2B12%2BVolt%2BPower%2BTender%2BPlus%2BBattery%2BCharger&th=1

And the 24V version. Maybe I should stick to 12V because it will actually charge to 14.4V? May need to experiment.

I used one of these works really well. Installed on both the front and rear door. https://www.amazon.com/NU-SET-2120-3-Locking-Deadbolt-Cylinder/dp/B000I6F1WS/ref=asc_df_B000I6F1WS/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=194861420852&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=16918411886128368565&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9014870&hvtargid=aud-801381245258:pla-309480173507&psc=1

Took me forever to figure this out. It’s not easy finding parts for the little three inch pipe. I ended up using the transition plate listed below with high temp insulation between it and the roof. Then on the roof I installed one of these high temp silicon rain guards. Also, if you are looking for a chimney cap Home Depot sells a cheap one that was recommended to us by cubic mini. We painted the stove pipe and chimney cap black using high temp paint.

176203 3" Ceiling Support/ Firestop-... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002NHWAQK?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Insulation, Wool, 0 to 1200 Degrees F https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZI4T1U?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

3 Silicone Hi-Temp Pipe Flashing... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0792PT94W?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

https://www.homedepot.com/p/100396919

VHT SP102 FlameProof Coating Flat... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CPJLGM?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

We had a problem with our bus starting when we got it. It turned over very slow even though the batteries were charged fully. Turned out to be the starter. It was the original starter. Got a gear reduction starter off Amazon for $100 (it shows to be $150 now) and it turns over twice as fast. It almost seems like it turns over TOO fast, but i dont know if thats a thing. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B004D0HNUS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thank You.

I used Sikaflex 1a polyurethane sealant and Rust-Oleum Protective Enamel. I shoot with a crummy old go pro and a Brinno time lapse camera and I edit in Adobe Premier Pro.

Here you go https://www.amazon.com/Trend-PB01-Perfect-Butt-Scribing/dp/B0029WD590

You are looking for a heat reclaimer.

How about one of these?

https://www.amazon.com/Wise-Adjustable-Boat-Pedestal-Black/dp/B000KKET70/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=RV+Pedestal+Captains+Chair&qid=1572286982&sr=8-12

or

https://www.recpro.com/pedestal-for-rv-captains-chair/

Youll need an isolator to charge from the alternator and a little bit larger alternator since being a Kia its probably the bare minimum needed to keep one battery charged.

edit : this kit - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00400D6WU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1