(Part 3) Top products from r/snakes

If you have a glass tank already, I would not get a ball python. They don't do so well in glass tanks as they have high humidity needs, and the screen tops don't hold in humidity and the glass walls don't hold heat it. It would be an uphill battle with constant stress on you and potential health issues for your snake.

Corn sakes and sand boas and hognoses do pretty well in glass tanks though, and a 40g long tank would be a good home for them.

I would suggest picking a species first, and then start researching. Some basics that you will need regardless:

1.) Hides, more than 1. Half logs can be pretty decoration but they aren't that great for a snake feeling safe in. A good cheap hide are these, which you can order online. These are well made, sturdy, dishwasher safe, and are enclosed spaces with only 1 entrance - my ball python and rainbow boa are both very happy with theirs. If you like aesthestics you can use foam and paint to make them look pretty cool using this tutorial or you can purchase some of these

2.) Heat Sources: You will need either ceramic heat emitters, under tank heaters, or both. I would recommend staying away from heat lights as you need to turn lights off at night and most snakes can see even red light. Ceramic heat emitters give off heat but not light. I don't have recommendations for these as I don't use them. I do have recommendations for under tank heaters, which are these, from the same place as the hides. You can also get heat tape from Reptile Basics and they are super helpful in making sure you have everything you need to set up with it. ZooMed or Zilla stick on pads are not that great and can break super easily. If you do end up with one of these, I suggest sticking aluminum foil to the adhesive and then attaching it with foil tape, this will make it re-usable. STAY AWAY FROM HEAT ROCKS.

3.) Thermostats. You will need 1 thermostat per heat source. This is NECESSARY. This is not something you can skip out on. Heat pads and CHE's can easily get hot enough to fry your reptiles. This is the model I am currently using for my heat sources, and other people here use them too. They don't have a lot of crucial safety features, though. I am saving up for one of these Herpstat's. You can get one with multiple probes for multiple heat sources, and it has a ton of good safety features. Tons of people here use these, so if you have questions about which one to get, someone here can answer you.

4.) Security: All snakes are escape artists. All of them. Even the one you don't see ever leave their hides. A stack of books or some rocks on the lid are not security measures. You will want to look into lid clamps, or a system that slides in and has a means of locking. I had my baby boa in an Iris Weathertight box which had 6 locking lid clamps while he was in quarantine. Now he is in an Animal Plastics t8 w sliding doors and I have a lock on them. If you have questions about if your set up will be secure enough, please post pics here and we can helpyou spot potential escape routes. Or you can just search "lost snake" or "escape" on this sub and see some of the ways snakes have escaped. But rocks and books are a guarantee to end with an escaped snake.

5.) Temp and Humidity Guages: These stick on ones are no good. They are dangerous and sometimes deadly - I don't care how cheap they are, or how much of a budget you are on, they are inaccurate and the adhesive WILL give way and your snake could get stuck to it. This is the one I use. I have the "outdoor" probe sitting on the floor of the enclosure on the hot side (under the substrate) and the unit itself sitting on the cool side. This lets me quickly see the temperature gradient and humidity.

6.) Substrate: This is going to be highly individual to what kind of snake you get and what its humidity needs are. Sand boas will need a ton more than a corn snake, for example. But pine is toxic, so avoid that. Figure out what kind of snake you are getting and plan for a substrate for them.

7.) What to Feed: you're gonna have to feed whole prey items. It is highly recommended that you feed either frozen/thawed or pre-killed. I order mine frozen thawed from either Layne Labs or Perfect Prey. I keep them in my freezer and I have a pair of feeding tongs I use to feed with. I usually take them out of the freezer and put them in the fridge the night before feeding day. When I get home from work I take them out of the fridge and set them on the counter (in a plastic bag) to get them to warm temp. Then I get some boiling water, put it in a bowl, put a plate on top of the bowl, and put the prey items on top of the plate. I do this until they reach approx 100F (use a IR temp gun if you have one), and then I run the heads under a hot water until they reach about 110F. I do this for both prey items for my ball python and my rainbow boa, even though my rainbow boa doesn't have heat pits, it's just easier cause I keep them in the same ziplock bag. I then use the tongs to dangle the prey and move it around to make it look like it's "live". Some snakes aren't picky and won't mind a room temp rodent, others will want a dance. My boa is a champ and will knock back food no problem. My ball python will want me to dance the rat around for twenty minutes while she gets into striking position and contemplates the meaning of life, the universe, and everything. Ball pythons are usually picky. Pre-killed means you buy the rodent live, and then kill it yourself, and immediately present it to the snake. You can achieve this with a euthanasia chamber or twisting the neck. Feeding live isn't really the greatest, as there is a chance the prey item will attack and hurt your snake. This is especially true of adult rats, which have sharp teeth and claws. In the wild, a snake could see a prey item and if it's not hungry, it could run away. In captivity, neither the rat nor the snake can run away, and this can lead to snakes being defensive and just trying to hide while a rat bites it fearing attack.

8.) How to Feed: In addition to this, you will probably hear about "cage agression" and needing a seperate tank to feed in. This is a lie. Your snake will not associate your hand / opening of the cage as "feeding time" unless it is the only time your hand is in there. And it won't be, you will be changing water, cleaning poop and urates, changing substrate, and more! After a snake has eating, they need at least 48 hours to digest their food. If they don't have this time, they may regurgitate the food. Regurgitation is an emergency medical event. In order to avoid this, after your snake has been feed, they should be left completely alone for 48 hours, no handling. If you feed in a seperate enclosure, this means that you will be moving your snake post-feeding. This also increases your chances of being bitten. Your hand may smell like rodent still, and your snake will still be in hunting mode, and may think your hand is seconds. So feed in your enclosure. It's less stressful for your snake, less stressful for you, and you have a much lower risk of being bitten.

That's a general overview, I may have left something out there, but I think you can get the general basics. Next you should pick a species and start asking here for more specific advise!!

I wish you and your future scale-child the best of luck!

you might find my BP info copypasta helpful. the first three links are detailed care sheets, then a tub tutorial, and the rest are product recommendations. read everything thoroughly, come back with any questions. let me know if any of the links don't work.

glass tanks can be very challenging for ball python husbandry due to the high amount of air flow with the screen top and the total lack of insulation with the glass walls. it's generally recommended to use tubs or pvc reptile cages instead. wood enclosures can also be suitable if they're designed well and sealed properly to protect the wood against moisture. glass tanks can work, but they require a lot of modification and maintenance, which you'll find tips for in the second link. i'll give you product recommendations to cover options for tanks, tubs, and pvc/wood enclosures.

• the basics and then some
  
• common problems
  
• feeding problems
  
• here is a tutorial to give you an example of how to set up a tub. this is what i would recommend for an immediate setup, and you could upgrade to a pvc cage upgrade later. note: this tutorial shows adhesive velcro to attach the thermo/hygro to the tub wall, but you should not do that. tape and other sticky adhesives should never be used inside the enclosure, your snake can get stuck on it and suffer serious injuries. hot glue is the easiest reptile-safe adhesive option. screws or bolts can also be used to mount things on plastic/wood walls.
  
• pvc reptile cages are ideal. they have the husbandry benefits of a tub with the aesthetics/visibility of a tank, they're much lighter than wood or glass, and they will remain unaffected by decades of constant high humidity. animal plastics, boamaster, and boaphile plastics, are some popular companies. many people will use a tub for a young snake and upgrade to pvc later.
  
• spyder robotics makes high quality thermostats to regulate your heat sources with pulse/proportional temperature control and various safety features. this is a popular cheap thermostat with simple on/off style with zero safety features. inkbird thermostats are also low-cost but overall higher quality than the hydrofarm type. any heat source should be regulated by a thermostat to ensure safe and appropriate temperatures.
  
• heat tape or ultratherm heat pads are high quality and affordable under tank heater [UTH] options. this is a suitable heat source for most enclosure types. remember that a UTH will not provide ambient heat, it will only affect the temperature of the surface to which it is attached.
  
• a porcelain base lamp and ceramic heat emitter[CHE] is the best ambient heat source for a tank, and it will also work for some pvc/wood enclosures. any heat lamp that emits light, even red or blue, should not be used at night.
  
• a radiant heat panel [RHP] is the best ambient heat source in a pvc/wood enclosure. there are a few options, such as reptile basics and pro products.
  
• a digital dual sensor thermometer/hygrometer allows you to easily monitor the warm side floor temperature [with the probe] as well as the ambient temperature and humidity [with the main unit].
  
• an infrared thermometer allows you to spot-check surface temperatures anywhere in the enclosure.
  
• these hide boxes are a cheap simple hide with a design that offers the best sense of security for your snake. cave style hides, cardboard boxes, plastic food containers, etc, can also be used. half logs are not appropriate hides.

There are a number of resources for snake ID and this list is nowhere near comprehensive.

Globally, comprehensive species lists are available via Reptile Database Advanced Search. Reptile Database is mostly correct and up to date in terms of taxonomy. Another worldwide resource is Snakes of the World which, in addition to being comprehensive for extant snakes, also provides a wealth of information on fossil taxa.

Regional guides are useful. If you're in North America, the Eastern Peterson Guide and Western Peterson Guide are great tools, as is Snakes of the United States and Canada. While plagiarized and problematic, the book Snakes of Mexico is the best easily accessible information for the region. For Central America, the Kohler book as well as Savage's Costa Rica book are excellent resources. South America is tough but has a diagnostic catalog. Australia has Cogger as a herp bible. SE Asia has two guides one in German and one comprehensive. For Europe, you simply can't get better than the three volumes of Handbuch der Reptilien und Amphibien Europas. Africa is also difficult - no comprehensive guide exists but there are a few good regional guides like Reptiles of East Africa and Guide to the Reptiles of Southern Africa. Amphibians and Reptiles of Madagascar is a good source for that distinct region. For the Indian subcontinent, use Snakes of India

Remember, species names are hypotheses that are tested and revised - old books become dated by the nature of science itself. One of your best resources is going to be following /r/whatsthissnake, or (for North America) with the SSAR Standard Names List for the most recent accepted taxonomic changes.

Here is an example of a small personal herpetology library.

--------------------------------------------------------

I am a bot created for /r/whatsthissnake, /r/snakes and /r/herpetology to help with snake identification and natural history education. You can find more information, including a comprehensive list of commands, here and report problems here.

Yeah going fake gives you the benefit of something that will last much much longer and has no chance of growing mold and is easy to clean. Good thing is if you're savvy enough and know where to shop, creating a good set up for your snake (aside from the enclosure itself) shouldn't have to break the bank. In the future you will have to shill out some cash for a proper adult enclosure so keep that in mind. For future substrate, the ones I named should be perfectly suited for a BCI since it will need humidity between 60-70%. I would shy away from aspen because it gets soggy easily and is prone to mold growth. Another thing is I suggest getting a ceramic water bowl. Even baby BCI can easily tip over other water bowls and there are some good ones on amazon that are deep and sturdy. https://www.amazon.com/Ethical-5-Inch-Stoneware-Crock-Dish/dp/B00025YU3Q/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=3GEO31AZRX3RC&keywords=ceramic+water+bowl&qid=1565353412&s=gateway&sprefix=ceramic+water%2Caps%2C156&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyVlpZSUQ1R0lPWUsyJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDgzMjE5MTNRM1lGQlBQWk1QRSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTk1Mjc5MkxYS0NLOVZVMEUySyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

If you have any other snake husbandry questions feel free to DM me. I'd be more than happy to point you in the right direction.

I like this book mostly because it was written by Bill and Kathy Love who are well known and respected corn breeders. www.cornsnakes.com is a very helpful forum website.

Some people say a corn that's under 3 years old should eat once a week while others like to feed very young corns more frequently. The Munson plan is sometimes considered a bit aggressive but I like it young corns close to this. When it says four to five days I'll usually feed pinkies every 5 days, fuzzies every 6 days, and hoppers and adult mice once a week. When they're young, they'll often shed about once a month.

The color is of a hypo lavender (I just picked up a little female hypo lavender myself! Her and her normal pattern for comparison ) and the pattern is motley. It may have sunkissed in there too and that reduces the head pattern slightly and tends to make them brighter. Males do tend to be brighter and smaller but there's no guarantee for that. Keep in mind that as babies, most corn morphs will change color slightly with each shed, so if you get a baby it's not going to look exactly the same as an adult.

There doesn't seem to be a required minimum for handling but some snakes do respond better to being handled less often as it can be stressful but it really comes down to the individual snake. Twice a week is typically fine but I wouldn't handle the snake at all once it starts to go into a shed or before it settles into the new home and is eating well.

Spot clean when you see poop and total deep clean once every couple of months though some people say every month. To me, if you're spot cleaning it doesn't seem necessary to do it every month.

If you keep them on aspen, I would be careful about misting as it can mold. You can give them a moist hide though they usually shed fine at 40% humidity which is pretty normal for most places.

Getting a bigger enclosure is fine so long as you make the snake feel hidden by "cluttering" the tank with foliage and hides.

Having a dog shouldn't be an issue so long as you keep the snake out of harms way. I haven't seen any of my snakes react to the presence of the dogs unless the dog tries to get close. Freezing, the "s" shape stance, and high tailing it in the other direction are good indicators of being stressed.

It looks perfectly safe, but I don't know if it would make a good hide... it seems a bit too open, so it'd be a neat decoration, but I wouldn't count on it making a good hide.

I have this one in my hatchling's tank. It serves much better as a hide (thought my snake much prefers his little coconut halves) and still looks really cool.

my set up is as follows and should help you with your set up, assuming you're willing to invest in your animals husbandry and currently use a glass tank with a mesh top.

for each of my snakes I keep in tanks I have cypress mulch bedding, a hygrotherm controller, a reptifogger, a lamp dimmer switch, and a heat bulb that's too high wattage for what I need

I get the extra wattage on the bulb for a few reasons, mostly because it gives me a larger range that I can adjust with the lamp dimmer switch and this way I can easily bump up the temps if any of them start to exhibit RI symptoms.

the hygrotherm sensor is placed inside of the tank right around the middle of the enclosure, I keep it set to maintain 50-60 percent humidity 90% of the time, and when the snake is in shed I bump it up to 80% from the time they start to go blue, to the time they finish sloughing their skin.

by using the hygrotherm/reptifogger combination, it's incredibly easy to keep my snake happy and healthy and still keep them on display so my friends and I can peak in anytime without having to disturb them in a tub.

here are the links for what I use

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019IJXD2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (reptifogger, currently pretty inexpensive relatively speaking)

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0019IHK9Q/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (hygrotherm controller)

http://www.amazon.com/Lutron-TT-300NLH-WH-Credenza-Dimmer-White/dp/B0000DI241/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427830822&sr=8-1&keywords=lamp+dimmer+switch (dimmer switch)

In the hotter parts of the year snakes tend to move around towards dawn and dusk, and are more likely to be moving throughout the night. Get out into good habitat for what you'd like to see and just spend time in the area. Big or diverse ecotype areas of habitat are usually best. Field guides or books like Ernst & Ernst is a good resource for specific habitat use and other natural history information that can help.

I'm in the same boat as the OP but I don't have a tank assembled yet! I'm looking at stuff to buy for it though, and I want my snake to feel as safe and comfortable as possible. is this appropriate for a corn snake? The reviews say so, but I figured I'd ask to make sure. I'm also looking at climbing sticks/etc and found this but I don't know how I feel paying $20 for a small stick, lol. Any suggestions?

Yes, everything this person said! For hides, I like these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UCDIBMY/ref=twister_B00UCDIB4C?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

They're super cheap from Amazon and my snakes love them. Get two both sized so the snake will fit snugly inside without a lot of extra space.

​

Your snake isn't eating because it is very, very stressed. Fix your issues with the enclosure and give it a solid week before you try feeding again.

Hello everyone,

Earlier this week I got my first snake, which was a female western hognose. Unfortunately, the previous owners seem to have provided lackluster care (here was the tank, bedding etc she came in).

I have since purchased a 40 gallon tank, got new bedding, purchased 2 hides, added a larger heating pad, light lamp, and have a thermometer I'll be installing on the heat lamp...

...but 24 hours after transferring the snake to her new tank, she hadn't shown herself at all.

At first she explored her new, larger surroundings. But then she buried and I didn't see her. Worried, I just found her on the cooler non-lit/non-heated side still not moving much (and generally not happy with my bothering her).

Concerns:

Here is a picture of the new setup. I used this ReptiChip substrate (coconut husk), which I'm a bit anxious about because it specifically mentions pythons and boas, not a hognose. I followed their instructions using water to expand the chips and add some moisture, but the moisture is collecting in the tank (picture at the base here).

When I tried to find her in the substrate, I noticed a small flying insect similar to a gnat. Not sure if this is relevant or this is just something I should watch out for.

1. Is the moisture collecting at the base of the tank a problem?
   
   
2. Is it normal for a hognose to spend time buried and feeling "anti-social" when first moved to a new environment?
   
   
3. Is this substrate okay? I only read after purchasing the ReptiChip that hognose may prefer shredded aspen.
   
   
4. What's the temperature for the heading pad and lighting area (I see this called a "basking area")? In the link above I see 90 degrees F
   
   
5. I got this thermometer. Is there anything else (humidity checker) that I need to purchase?
   
   Many thanks for all y'alls help. I apologize for my ignorance. In posting this (and quickly purchasing more/better products), I am doing my best to care for the animal.

temperature sounds about right, cool side should be about 70° and warm around 86°.
I read a lot online, plus bought a book. I think the best info I found was linked on this reddit, plus these:

• http://www.thecornsnake.co.uk/corn_snake_care_sheet.htm
  
• https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corn-Snakes-Herpetocultural-Library-Kathy/dp/1882770706/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1492589590&sr=8-2&keywords=corn+snakes
  
  
  also something I forgot to mention but is dead important: check these things:
  
  
• you are allowed to keep snakes in the place you live (not just the state, but also in your building/flat)
  
• there is a reptile specialised vet within reach. Normal vets might not have a clue how to help a sick snake.
  
• you can get frozen mice where you are, either from a shop or delivered.
  
  EDIT: and make shameless use of this subreddit. Whenever I had questions, even silly ones, I received good explanations, info, and help here. It's a pretty awesome corner of the internet.

If screen top, cover with 3 layers of foil, use tape on the outside only, where snek cannot touch tape, to make a better seal, leave a hole for excess humidity or lamp, hole i think works best on the warm side, oh and a water bowl on both ends of the tank

glass sides and back can be insulated with foam, or foil, black foam looks better, works better and is exactly the measurement for the 2 sides and back https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GAD5G4

the analog dial is usually inaccurate and everyone here is afraid of them after this owners corn snake got stuck to the adhesive that fell off http://i.imgur.com/CRHSzgK.jpg

If you're keen on doing some work to save money and have some tools lying around, you could build your own enclosure for much cheaper than premade ones. There's plenty of tutorials and the materials (usually wood or acrylic) are fairly affordable. The long term costs of owning a snake are pretty negligible, it's the initial cost that's going to be pretty high.

Aside from the enclosure, you also need; a heat mat (ex), a thermostat (ex1 ex2), thermometer and hygrometer (ex), substrate (ex1 ex2), 2 hides (ex), water dish (ex), ceramic heat emitter (ex), cleaning supplies (ex), and a mist bottle (ex).

Those are all just examples and some of them might not work for you, but it should give you an idea of what to look for. Things that aren't "technically" a requirement but are highly recommended are plants/decor and a light (UVB if you want to spoil them) to provide a day/night cycle. If you're wanting a Ball Python, options are practically endless on MorphMarket. Just make sure you do your research on a breeder before buying.

here

I made sure to get the 3000k as they're a warmer softer light, as well as waterproof. I got myself one power adapter per box (each box was a single piece, so I ordered to strands of lights).

The lights are adhesive backed, but adhesives in the enclosure are a big no no, so I just used the adhesive to hold em in place while I placed them, and then siliconed them into place for good.

The lights are cool cause you can wire multiples together with available adapters and connectors. The strands come with a couple adapters too. But no power supply, so make sure you get one, or something equivalent.

Also, I wrapped the lights around the upper perimeter of my boxes, but they're definitely bright enough that I'm considering taking about 1/4 out. They're not overly bright, but it's more of a personal opinion, but my snakes don't seem to mind them. So you may not need more than one strand, depending on how much light you want in the enclosure.

So the tank looks something similar to what I have (just smaller). Does the lid slide into place? That's what it looks like in the picture at least. I have that, but I also have three locks on mine. One of them is similar to this here. The other two clips are these on amazon .


Now the size of the tank all depends on the snake. We started our retic in a 20G, but have switched him into a custom built enclosure once he outgrew it. From what I have seen, the length + width should be a tad bigger than your snake. I prefer to give them extra wiggle room to grow into, but that's also because all my snakes are super young.


I use these thermometers also from amazon. We place one on the cool, middle, and hot side. Or just the cool and hot side depending on the tank size. My toads use something different though. Since it is a tank, we had trouble keeping humidity in, but getting a larger water dish and using this tape on the OUTSIDE of the tank (so part of the screen and some of the sides) have helped tremendously. We also use a cheaper humidifier from Walmart in the room due to our climate.


I do use heat lamps at the moment until I get switched over to something else. The bulbs we use emit zero lighting and we have them connected to a temperature control thing, also found on amazon.


Now for water, you will need to get reptile drops to take out the bad stuff in tap water. That can be found online or at a local pet shop.

You would just have to modify everything for whatever type of animal you want to get. Also, the small little cage is for crickets. They go into the tubes and that's how you feed them to toads/lizards. Also, I would suggest purchases a snake from a breeder/reptile expo versus a pet store.

Consider getting something like this. You can pick your size. They are relatively cheap. Hard to tip over and I think they are an attractive solution.

Ethical 5-Inch Stoneware Crock Dog Dish

here is the thermostat that I have always used. it’s a good price and I haven’t had any issues with it

and here are the thermometer/hygrometer combos that I use. one on the hot side, and one on the cool side.

I got mine in a petshop here in Ireland but they're also on Amazon, Link here. My corn is over 5 feet and the large is fine for him.

Showcase locks such as the one in the link or better ones if you wanna go fancy or shims as others have suggested for a budget

It is ok. To me nothing is black or white, everything is gray. It is the way things are.

Anyways, here is the link to the book from amazon http://www.amazon.com/Stolen-World-Reptiles-Smugglers-Skulduggery/dp/B00AZ82KD2

Honestly, I would not use any hides that you cannot access the snake if needed. If something happened or you needed to check him over medically for some reason, you may not be able to do it and it could be a big problem.

Hides that can be lifted off/have no bottom, or have a top that can lift off of the bottom are the best for that reason.

You might be able to lure him out with food, catch him roaming at night, or just replace all the other hides with different types and see if he will try the new one(s) then remove whichever he is using now. No guarantees, but eventually he will come out.

Removable top type:
https://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Snake-Cave-Large/dp/B000HHLQJU/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=snake+hides&qid=1556554098&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Lift-off type, basic plastic:
http://www.reptilebasics.com/hide-boxes

He should have a warm spot of 85 degrees and a cool side of mid to low 70's, but your humidity seems fine. Are you measuring humidity with a digital or analog hygrometer? Many people get these https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Economy-Thermometer-Humidity/dp/B004PBB1JE from their local pet store, but they can be wildly inaccurate. If you have analog, switch to digital right away. To get rid of the shed, place some moist paper towels or moss into one of his hides.

http://exoticpets.about.com/od/reptilesandamphibians/qt/humidityhide.htm

this is better than nothing. you can build one cheaply, and it will give your snake a place to go to get hydrated. Ball Pythons are tropical species, so they need to have a relatively high humidity. I try to keep mine around 60%, and go a little higher than that if they are having trouble shedding.
I would recommend getting a cage that is designed to keep humidity in, but mine cost me a little over 200 bucks, so that may be a no go for now.
I have also used a hygrotherm (http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-HygroTherm-Temperature-Controller/dp/B0019IHK9Q) / reptifogger (http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Reptile-Terrarium-Humidifier/dp/B0019IJXD2/ref=pd_bxgy_petsupplies_img_y) combo, which comes out to about 150 bucks.
Other than that buy a humidifier and put it in the snakes room, (preferably not in the cage), or get a spray water bottle and mist the cage a few times a day, and build a humidity box for the snake. (by far the cheapest option)
A healthy ball python will not have wrinkles or folds on the inside of where it's bent outside of shed. If it has wrinkles and isn't shedding then it is dehydrated.

Here it is on Amazon: http://amzn.com/B001B5ATYK

And if you want to read more from the mfr: http://www.exo-terra.com/en/products/natural_terrarium_large.php

At Petsmart it retails for $199, but we got it on sale for $159.

We actually went by tonight to pick up some other stuff and they're still running the sale, so if that's in your price range, maybe run by yours and see if they have any?

Well the velcro itself is probably not that bad, but if the adhesive that the velcro is glued to the glass with is the problem. Thats why you shouldnt have any kind of tape in an enclosure. But even if thats fine you want to measure hot spot temperature and the stick on measure ambient temperatures.

This is the kind of thermometer im talking about. You dont see them often cause they are hiden beneath the substrate.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01F3V7PYE/ref=ox_sc_saved_image_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3TX4YUK2VIRSQ

They also have large ones for 30-40 gallon tanks.

The same locks used on the sliding glass doors of store displays.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EXQYEEO/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_HL8HybRT83JJ4

Buy a food scale then. This is cheap, and will work fine

This is the terrarium I got http://www.amazon.com/Exo-Terra-Glass-Terrarium-18-Inch/dp/B001B5ATYK
Left brown rock is a cool hide, top right corner is the hot hide with a heat matt buried undeneath the substrate (aspen). Two logs and some fake foliage with a water bowl on the bottom right. I'm thinking about getting a low watt heat lamp but not sure if it's necessary.

Yes! Forest floor (cypress mulch) doesn’t mold like aspen and you can mist it or pour water in directly. I know Amazon sells it but most stores that I’ve been to that sell reptile supplies have it too. Also I remember I got the compressed coco fiber block and it was SO wet after rehydrating it. I ended up getting a bag of loose eco earth to mix in and absorb some water.
Zoo Med Forest Floor Bedding, 24 Quarts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010OVM7A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_D-czCbXHJYNFD
Zoo Med Eco Earth Loose Coconut Fiber Substrate, 8 Quarts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00167VVP4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_ycdzCbDF55X9G

Going shopping tonight and tomorrow. Was ordering some things on amazon and was wondering what size of a hide I should get, reading the article you gave me said there should be no dead space in there hide. Here are the two I am looking at [One] (https://www.amazon.com/Reptile-Hide-Box-C-Medium/dp/B00UCDIBMY/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1492216546&sr=1-3&keywords=reptile%2Bhide&th=1) [Two] (https://www.amazon.com/Reptile-Hide-Box-C-Medium/dp/B00UCDIBJ2/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1492216546&sr=1-3&keywords=reptile%2Bhide&th=1) And if you dont mind I would like to send you pictures of my completed closure to get your final word on it