(Part 3) Top products from r/sportster

Do it! It's a slightly tedious job but the look you get from it is supreme. Keep in mind I also relocated the ignition with the kit. If you install a tank lift the look is even cleaner bc you have more room. You can tuck the harnesses much easier (if you look close under the HD logo you can see one of them sticking out.. eye sore if you know what to look for haha). And yes you wrap it to the frame section by section. I used e-z tape to combat all the elements and protect the wires. This video from blockhead explains it much clearer and a visual aid. I highly highly recommend watching his videos and throw him some love

What type of Carb? A kehein CV is going to give you the best response on your ironhead; Mikuni and S&S will both work okay with more fiddling.

Ironheads take a LOOOOONG time to warm up, like 20 minutes at 50 mph according to my manual; and you need to make any carb adjustments when fully warmed or it will be fuck-o.

AFTER IT'S WARMED UP: First you increase the idle speed to ~1500, THEN you set the A:F to halfway between stumbling from too rich and too lean, and THEN you set the idle back to ~1100 or wherever your manual says it should be.

This is a great book on tuning Ironheads.

I'd ditch the drag pipes or install some "lollipops" to help with low end response. (Drag pipes are tuned for DRAG RACING aka wide open throttle)

Straight pipes are not very responsive at idle or when just bumping around town.

No, the heavy duty ones are too harsh unless you do a lot of two up riding. If you always have your old lady on the back, the heavy duty ones are a good choice.

Get the 412, 13" ones for sure, and crank up the preload until the sag is right (it should be sagging about 1/3 of its total travel without you on the bike, just under its own weight. Remember that to see total travel, you need to jack the bike up until the wheels are just 1mm off the ground).

As for front springs, you don't NEED to do them, but if you care about handling and brake dive, a set of Race Tech springs will do an amazing job in the front. Its very easy to install them, you just need the 39mm front fork cap tool or this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002XMYHOI/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1).

You can swap the front springs without changing the fluid also, but you should change the fluid every 5 years or so.

Racetech has a calculator on their site that lets you figure out the spring rate. I weigh only slightly less than you, and I bought a .95Kg/mm spring and its perfect.

http://www.racetech.com/

Don't get the Progressive front springs, even though Progressive makes a fine rear shock, their front springs are, in my opinion, garbage.

I imagine you could connect to the ignition circuit. GPS and cell phone chargers don't draw that much power, I'm pretty sure you would be okay. I'm not 100% certain though, maybe toss a thread up in XLForums, or ask /u/gunslinger_006, he is the resident Sportster expert IMO. Wherever you add the wire, ensure to fuse it properly.

Edit for what I do on my sporty: I have a battery tender lead tucked behind my fuse panel cover, and I got a 12 volt socket adapter for my tender plug. I keep it in my saddle bag, and charge up when I need to :-)

If you're looking for cheap I use a set of canvas ones I found on Amazon. They're not pretty but you can shove 2 18 packs in each one if you're brave enough.

https://i.imgur.com/J4eoUX4.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/Stansport-766-Saddle-Bag/dp/B004Z1239G/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=canvas+saddle+bag+motorcycle&qid=1557353861&s=gateway&sprefix=Canvas+saddle&sr=8-4

A bit pricey, but I really like the look of the Memphis Shades Gauntlet Fairing

I'm a fan of the Dakota Digital speedo, but they are pricey as well:

http://www.amazon.com/Dakota-Digital-MCL-3200-Speedometer-Tachometer/dp/B002VVCJT6/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1395148785&sr=1-1&keywords=dakota+digital

This is the stuff I use (black only):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MY3ML8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Something like this might work for you:
https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Oleum-248908-Automotive-12-Ounce-Degree/dp/B003CT4AL6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492443039&sr=8-1&keywords=red+high+temp+paint

I have one of these and it works just fine.

Good point, no need to jack up to change oil, maybe just a minor convenience so I don't have to be hunched over.

I was originally thinking something along the lines of this so I can keep the bike upright while filling the trans but all those stand types say they are for sport bikes.