(Part 2) Top products from r/steelseries

idk what your price range is but ill name a list of headsets iive know are good.ive tried a couple and i personally own the astro a40 tr https://www.amazon.com/ASTRO-Gaming-A40-TR-PC-Headset/dp/B014LH5LH4/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1468999233&sr=1-2&keywords=astro+a40+tr

Razer man o war te edition Very comfortable and has a good bass response
http://gear.blizzard.com/overwatch-razer-manowar-headset

Logitech g633 amazing sound ive tried these i absoultely loved them but i was able to buy keep these at the time i had them
https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Artemis-Spectrum-Surround-Headset/dp/B013P0K8OE/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1468999270&sr=1-1&keywords=logitech+g633

Hyper x cloud ii/revolvers basically an audiophile headset called takstar something idk remember the numbers with a mic
https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Gaming-Headset-PS4/dp/B00SAYCXWG/ref=sr_1_2?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1468999356&sr=1-2&keywords=hyper+x+cloud

https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Revolver-Headset-HX-HSCR-BK-NA/dp/B01CIEBU54/ref=sr_1_3?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1468999397&sr=1-3&keywords=hyper+x+cloud

If you want an audiophile grade open back headphones you can get the phillips shp9500 with a vmoda boom pro(replaces the 3.5mm cable from the phillips with a 3.5mm cable with a mic attached to it that actually works really good ive personally have used the vmoda boom pro, and these also dont have much bass since they are open back but will give you a good soundstage and a more flat overall sound which is great)
https://www.amazon.com/Philips-SHP9500-Precision-Over-ear-Headphones/dp/B00ENMK1DW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468999443&sr=8-1&keywords=phillips+shp9500

https://www.amazon.com/V-MODA-BoomPro-Gaming-Headset-Headphone/dp/B00BJ17WKK/ref=pd_bxgy_23_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=RMHT9CZPCNN63DNKGWBC

Turtle beach elite pro pretty new but looks amazing
https://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Beach-Tournament-ComforTec-TruSpeak-Technology/dp/B01EM9PLVC

Senheisser game one/zero one is a closed back and one is a open dont remember which one is which
https://www.amazon.com/Sennheiser-GAME-ZERO-Gaming-Headphone/dp/B00KNPYAEY/ref=sr_1_sc_2?s=videogames&ie=UTF8&qid=1468999133&sr=1-2-spell&keywords=senheisseer+game+one

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GWU8FTK/ref=twister_B00OZP5HG8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Plantronics rig 500/500hd/500e(just little variations in between still the exact same headset one is just stereo,one is surround sound, and one issurround and comes with different sets of earcups closed and open. ive also personally used these they are fantastic but i wouldnt recommend if you have big ears normal to small ears fit inside the cups well)
http://www.plantronics.com/us/product/rig-500hc

http://www.plantronics.com/us/product/rig-500hd

http://www.plantronics.com/us/product/rig-500e

If anything is out of your price range i can probably recommend some other ones but these are the ones i can think of on the top of my head feel free to ask any questions

If you can you should definitely get a USB adapter.

A long time ago I purchased this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058P0I2C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
But it looks like it's unavailable now. However, something like that would work well for you.

http://www.amazon.com/Plugable-Headphone-Microphone-Aluminum-Compatibility/dp/B00NMXY2MO/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1426879043&sr=8-6&keywords=8mm+to+usb+adapter

I just did a quick search and found this one. It has good reviews. I would strongly suggest you go with the USB. As far as quality goes I think the quality is nearly identical, just a different way to plug in.

I don't think SS has a way to order just parts unfortunately.

Was searching for info on the firmware for the mouse and came across this thread/comment:

I've been using blu-tack (http://www.amazon.com/Blu-Tack-060968-Reusable-Adhesive-75g/dp/B001FGLX72) to clean the grips and it works beautifully. I just spread out a layer of the tack and press down real hard and then peel it off and it's as good as brand new.

I have the original Wireless H, and I ran into the same issue. I can confirm these work in the Wireless H http://m.ebay.com/itm/232171760156?_mwBanner=1

However, they do not charge in the charger, so you would need a generic charger (I use this one and it works well and is quite cheap https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005REEWYY/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Hope this helps!

From this reddit post

https://www.reddit.com/r/PS4/comments/b29dfb/getting_audio_ps4_slim_monitor_has_no_speakers/

, they recommend

https://www.amazon.com/Proster-Extractor-Converter-Optical-Splitter/dp/B07DMCKQBD/ref=sr_1_1

If I had to recommend one (without being able to try it), I would probably go with this one

https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extractor-Converter-JTDAT5CH/dp/B00BIQER0E/ref=sr_1_12

Could you give examples for some good no mic ones? I haven't used the mic on my gaming headset for a long time, so I'll get good quality headphones while looking for a real mic.

Bought the Arctis 5 headset today because my 2-3 year old Razor Carcharias broke and I needed some headphones. So I'm looking for better ones because these Arctis 5s dont even come close to the Carcharias audio quality.

You almost certainly have a combined speaker/mic jack rather than separate jacks. You'll just need a splitter cable, something like this one: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-headsets-separate-headphone-microphone/dp/B004SP0WAQ

Connecting only the speaker jack will not affect the 7.1 in any way. As the other poster said, it's in software.

Did some searching, and found a few good ones:
https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-Mini-size-Headset-Microphone-Windscreen/dp/B01EJ0N5FS/ref=sr_1_15?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1491656414&sr=1-15
https://www.amazon.com/Tetra-Teknica-MNWS5P-Mini-size-Microphone-Windscreen/dp/B00B6KMDU8/ref=sr_1_18?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1491656414&sr=1-18
https://www.amazon.com/Headset-Lapel-Lavalier-Microphone-Windscreens/dp/B005LR0ETO/ref=sr_1_43?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1491656414&sr=1-43

I think the last one is the best one, but I'm not sure. I might need proper measurements of the microphone on the Arctis.

It's a desktop. It should have separated ports.

You need something like this.

Looks like this

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Steelseries-Siberia-Headset-V2-Edition-PS3/dp/B00519J290/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409062425&sr=8-1&keywords=SteelSeries+Siberia+v2+Gaming+Headset+for+PlayStation+3

sry for late reply

One last question, can I use this as an extension cable for the micro USB to 3.5mm plug?
https://www.amazon.com/YCS-Basics-Cellphone-Charging-Extension/dp/B00B5HSC20/

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7WXTJS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This brand.

i did not say NiP , i said NP+ , i am sorry if you missunderstood me.

This one is what i was talking about

http://www.amazon.com/SteelSeries-Gaming-Mouse-Pad-Black/dp/B00336EER8

Actually sorry, I was incorrect, those are not the ones with surround sound. These are

My stealth merc has taken quite the abuse, pop, coffee, beer, water... its felt it all. I have taken it apart to clean over a dozen times. For months i've been having intermittent issues that cleaning didn't solve. on 4 keys on the gaming portion i had problems, a couple days ago my strafe left no longer worked.... My keyboard is so worn there is 15 keys worn down to the clear plastic on the full top.

So i got thinking, why not patch up the burnt looking traces with some circuit writer ink? (https://www.amazon.ca/CircuitWriterTM-Precision-Pen-silver-based-grams/dp/B00B88B9KI)

A lot of patience is needed, if you cross a trace, wait for it to dry and scrape with a pin tip. Also start by going over the actual button dots first, top and bottom. let dry under a hot light for 4 hours, assemble and give the keys a try. Dont use the keyboard for 24 hours roughly to give the stuff time to cure properly. 3 of the 4 problem keys were fixed just by patching the dots. the strafe key though took 2 attempts to fix, due to a burnt short trace. The side effect of all this work though has been a bit of dust near my main keyboard F key making it need a heavy press and me being too lazy to fix it.

Tips for the pen:

-Pay a bit more to get my pen at an electronics shop that has a high turn over, that way it isn't sitting on a shelf long

-SHAKE IT WELL, i hooked mine to a sawzall and let'r rip

-for more precision, apply the ink to the keyboard shell in one spot to use as an ink well and dont press the tip on the plastic. Being too heavy handed will mean a lot of scraping later

I hope this helps those who are in this similar issue. i've been kicking myself for buying my wife and i each a new set and chucking the old dirty ones back when they started going on clearance. I just thought they were coming out with a true RGB version, not doing the stupid move and axing the whole product line. I would love to see a new version, i don't even care its rgb or mechanical, i just want it or its layout and am choked i cant even find a keypad with a similar layout.

When my wife's original broke and i couldn't find them at first, we returned many competitors products due to them not feeling right, then i found 2 at bestbuy for $80 buried in a corner. that was the last time i saw them on a shelf... *tears up*

Just a little word of advice, the Arctis 5 doesn't actually use a proprietary cable. It uses the less common USB mini B 8 pin connector, popularized by Nikon cameras. Most USB Mini B connectors use the more common 5 pin layout. Now, there might be issues with the weirdly shaped socket Steelseries has for the headset, and I'm not sure if there are Mini B to Mini B cables available, but for a janky solution you could get two of these and one of these to make a replacement "cable" but you might need to take a sander or something and get the rubber plug ends smaller to fit in the socket.

I was wrong, sorry. See the response below.

You have to take into account that they only have warehouses in California, Denmark, and Hong Kong, so shipping is probably going to cost a bit more. I'm actually unsure what country you're in, apologies for my ignorance. I had initially assumed Canada, but everywhere I looked the currency abbreviation was listed as CAD. However, if we are assuming Canada, the cable itself is 10 USD. I don't know where you live, but Steelseries uses FedEx for their shipping in the US and Canada. Shipping from where I live in California to Toronto (one of the few Canadian cities I know sorry) with their cheapest option is a little over 20 USD for a .1 kg package, about 3 ounces, which is reasonable for a 2.5m calbe and its packaging. This bring our total cost to 30 USD. 51 CAD to USD is roughly 39 USD, so the 9 dollars left may be differences in final shipping location and duties, so its not that unreasonable. While it is a bit scummy that they are using a rare connector, the fact that it is a 2.5m cable for 10 USD is a tad overpriced, but not by much. If you can find some local Ebay sellers you may be able to get the cable for cheaper.