(Part 3) Top products from r/surfing

Starting out, I recommend sitting in the half lotus pose in a comfortable and silent room. Focus on your breath as you breathe through your nose. Assuming you are beginning mediation, I'd focus solely on the breath as it comes through your nose (don't worry about following it to your lungs). Whenever your mind starts to wander to daily stresses/tasks/bullshit, you can always go back to focusing on the nose breath.


For the first 20 sessions, I'd shoot for 20 minutes maximum. Initially, it's about clearing your mind to experience the present. The longer you meditate, the more things naturally start rising out of your subconscious. I've been meditating 30-45 minutes for the past few years and I enjoy spending the first half clearing my mind followed by concentration on a concept/word like compassion.


I highly recommend the book Still the Mind by Alan Watts. There is some light philosophy but some great thoughts regarding 'why do you want to meditate'.

You can always check /r/Meditation as well. Feel free to reach out if you have further questions!

I honestly think this is one of the most thoughtful responses. All the other stuff is logistics and ways not to piss people off, but going to a 3rd world country, especially a coastal town where it's extra poor and everything is for the sake of subsistence, well that's the way to get some real perspective on the world. Also a lot of those people out there are suuuuper friendly. Except for that one kid... f that kid! ;-)

Alright, some logistical advice: Buy this book! http://www.amazon.com/Surfers-Guide-Costa-Rica-Nicaragua/dp/1449925103

Some of the info is outdated but it's got a lot of good wisdom in it.

oh nice yea those definitely look handy for getting clean precise cuts.
It would be a good investment if I find myself really liking to build boards. Would something like https://www.amazon.com/Woodland-Scenics-Wire-Foam-Cutter/dp/B0006KSMEU do the trick?

Shaun Tomson has pretty much the same thing already written. 12 lessons I learned from surfing, or something like that. Same type of thing you’re goin for... “paddle with the rip” “don’t turn your back on the ocean” “always catch one in”. Really good read tbh. Definitely check it out

Edit: Found the book

Others have some put some great real world info here. I'd only add that these 2 books were quite helpful.

Think Like a Pancreas

https://www.amazon.com/Think-Like-Pancreas-Practical-Insulin-Completely/dp/0738215147/

Diabetic Athletes Handbook

https://www.amazon.com/Diabetic-Athletes-Handbook-Sheri-Colberg/dp/0736074937

Salts and Suits

It’s a fun read about the formation and growth of quicksilver, rip curl, and billabong. And how they went from garage operations to a multi billion dollar industry.

https://www.amazon.com/Salts-Suits-Phil-Jarratt/dp/1740667409/ref=nodl_

You might love the book The Wave. Really incredible book.

Coffee and cigs.

FYI, this is the best coffee maker I've ever used.

OH! One more question, since you seem to know what you're talking about - I'm buying my first wetsuit...Do you think a 3/2 shorty is a good call for right now in SD? I'm willing to buy another warmer one if I decide to surf through the winter, but for now I need something to get me through the early summer. Thinking about getting this one - any thoughts?

https://www.amazon.com/HaiMay-Waterproof-Earplugs-Cancelling-Sleeping/dp/B07TX9CF6P/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=waterproof+earplugs+30+pack&qid=1568905038&sr=8-4

Not the fanciest but works well and it’s cheap! Plus 30 pairs! They fall out sometimes but not more than TYR earplugs in my experience

I found this book to be extremely useful when I was brand new to the sport many years ago:
https://www.amazon.com/Kooks-Guide-Surfing-Instruction-Etiquette/dp/1620877236

I back the foam roller/lacrosse ball recommendations, and some focused area yoga. Also look up some of Christopher Somers' Gymnastic Bodies programs, they have a lot of exercises for shoulder strength and mobility.

Another thing that might help you are deadhangs from a pull up bar. Dr. John Kirsch wrote a book about his studies treating shoulder pain, and as I understand it, the crux of it was that he found that doing consistent dead hangs (with the thumbs disengaged) helped alleviate a lot of the issues over time. I have rotator cuff syndrome in my left shoulder and doing the hangs has definitely been helping the pain from it https://www.amazon.com/Shoulder-Solution-Prevention-Revised-Expanded/dp/1589096428

Breath - Tim Winton

I use this + sandpaper.

Here are some pictures of previous repairs :

http://i.imgur.com/OkgBYn4.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/mT2Qwwb.jpg

It's between this orbit sander or this sheet sander

cheapest way? make your own makeshift softracks for cheap. go to walmart, or kmart, or wherever and get a pool noodle and a couple of racheting tie downs. cut the pool noodle in half, and put the two pieces in between the board and your roof. put the tie-downs over the board and through the passenger compartment and cinch them down.

I did the exercises in this book after I screwed up my shoulder

I rock the simple Casio G Shock, a few bucks more than the sport watch, but worth the added protection when whacking it against all kinds of shit.

https://www.amazon.com/G-shock-DW5600E-1V-Black-Resin-Sport/dp/B000GAYQKY/

This bad boy's lasted longer than my RipCurl Tide Watch and G-Shock that got stolen. Taken it out on triple overhead days and it's still cherry. Thought I lost it at one point so I had to save up for months to get another $8 but when I ordered the other one I found the lost one under my car seat so now I got 2x the pussy soaker.

I have it bad from an old climbing injury, it flared up recently when I was doing something stupid. Anyway, I've been using one of these for a few days and it seems to be helping along with ice and stretches. Google it for some YT videos on how to use it for recovery.