(Part 2) Top products from r/wanhaoi3

I did all of those upgrades plus the extruder gear change. It prints great and highly recommended. The microswiss machined idler stuff is nice but I'm not sure how nessassary it was. I have that fan and have had no issues with 11+ hour prints.

Edit:

I added these split Zaxis couplers. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HBPHSII/

I added this gear: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZYG5Z47/

And the Zaxis brace kit from GulfCoast also.

I've been pretty happy with these upgrades.

I added the Z probe for ABL and used a PEI sheet vs the old sticker. I tried the glass and had good luck until it chipped...too much abs adhesion with the juice.

I recently went through exactly this same situation. I was ready to upgrade to a microswiss all-metal hotend and the catastrophic failure of the print leaving gunk all over my heater block forced the issue. In my case, I opted to replace everything I could including the thermistor and heating element. They are both very inexpensive and you should have a spare laying around anyway in case you need one in a hurry. So...how to clean your heating block...

Fire. Seriously. I used a combination of blowtorch and solvent to remove all the gunk (and mine was a LOT worse than yours...it basically encapsulated one entire end of my heater block, entombing the thermistor, heater and associated wiring).

I used your typical propane torch, holding my heater block in a vise or vise grips. I'd heat it up then quickly wipe away the melted PLA with a clean cloth. Heat, repeat. Then I'd soak the whole thing in some solvent (acetone, MEK, etc). Repeat until clean. Pay careful attention to the tiny setscrew that holds the heater in place...work it free with a hex wrench while it is hot...chances are you got some PLA stuck on there, too. Obviously be super careful when you do this. Ventilation, fire-extinguisher handy, your mom on speed-dial.

When you replace the thermistor and heating element you'll need to do some soldering. This is pretty unavoidable. Those elements come with very long wires attached to them and the Wanhao/MP print heat doesn't need that length. Clip it short, make good solders and use heatshrink over your joints. For the thermistor I simply cut out the center section of the wire and spliced the connector back to the component at the length i needed.

Now, when you put it all back together you will have the option of re-wrapping the heater block with cotton and Kapton tape. People seem split on if this is necessary, but since I'd battled heat creep before I didn't want to introduce any more heat up the block...so I opted to do it. It's a bit tricky if you get the non-punched cotton strips like I did. Luckily I had hole punches handy to make the provision for the hotend and nozzle to get thru the insulation. If you don't have these tools (or don't quite know how to do it), i'd shop around for pre-punched sets.

good luck. Let me know if you need any more help.

here are the parts i used:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071K8Z9KF/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4KY6TR/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076NW3GNH/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E1HANLS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought a pei sheet off Amazon and just clamped it on top of the original surface. No need for glue or hairspray or anything like that. It sticks perfectly and when it cools down it pops right off.

Would recommend it to everyone.

Gizmo Dorks PEI Sheet, 8" x 8" 3D Printer Build Surface Polyetherimide Ultem https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KBGJU5S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_IA4KofJ8WMGmf

If you have a multimeter check the resistance at the connector that plugs into the board. Also check what it says the temp is with the thermistor disconnected and shorted to give you a clue what's happening.

I got this one when I broke mine, it screws in so no crushing it: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07B3W8XQ4/

I pulled the wires out cleaning off a huge blob of pla from my hotend. I can't remember what my symptoms were but I feel like I saw something like you. My best guess is that it's shorted, disconnected or you crushed the actual sensor.

What caused it was probably the Y-axis rods not being aligned very well from the factory or just crappy bearings. You'll need new bearings and then have to adjust the y-rods appropriately.

http://3dprinterwiki.info/y-axis-rod-allignment/ (page is for the i3 but it is shared information for the plus too)

For the bearings you are looking for 8mm linear bearings. They are pretty standard for most of these 3d printers and can be found on numerous 3d printing store sites.

Here's a non-affiliate link to some on Amazon to get you started. https://www.amazon.com/Easy-RepRap-Linear-Bearings-Printer/dp/B00ED150S4


or here from the Ultimate 3d printing store which is Wanhao's Authorized US Distributer. https://ultimate3dprintingstore.com/collections/brand-new-2017/products/upgraded-bearings-set-of-5

Bearings most likely. My Select Plus sounded exactly the same when I got it. Really scratchy, but still worked fine.

I decided to go nuts with the upgrades and put a new Y carriage on from Amazon. Figured I'd replace the bearings while I had it apart. It's been smooth since!

Got these bearings:
CTYRZCH 12Pcs LM8UU Linear Bearings for 3D Printer, RepRap Prusa Mendel DIY CNC Motion, Prusa Mendel, reprap(8mm x 15mm x 24mm) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CE4H5PC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_l2HAoWJvMaMg6

And this Y carriage:
RepRap Champion Y Carriage Plate Upgrade for Wanhao Duplicator i3 and Monoprice Maker Select V1, V2, V2.1 and Plus 3D printers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MUAMRN7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_2q6Hk7jXWW3EW

I've been working on converting to a ramps 1.4 kit. That's the one I ordered. I also picked up an ATX power supply so I can control it with my pi. As far as the conversion goes, it seems pretty simple, installing the Marlin firmware was weird (I ended up having to do the configuration/install myself with the current version of Marlin, not using osoyoo's custom one). I just printed the mount conversion and I'll be installing it soon.

Not sure if it helps or not, just wanted to give you my perspective :)

Here is one that will work:

https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Regulator-Reducer-Waterproof-SupplyTransformer/dp/B0756W6V4F/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1538891834&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=24v+to+12v+step+down+converter&psc=1

Just search on amazon for "24v to 12v step down converter"

Here is the one that /u/chevyfried probably meant to link to, although it is only rated for a draw of 5A, might be best to go with at least 10A (which the first one I linked to is).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LY4RANA/ref=psdc_10967761_t3_B0756W6V4F

So my current plan is to purchase this: https://www.amazon.com/MEAN-WELL-original-LRS-200-24-Switching/dp/B06W9P8831/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498841573&sr=8-1&keywords=MEAN+WELL+original+LRS-200-24

and then take it all apart and replace the PSU, any advice is highly appreciated!

This is my favorite nozzle for Wanhao -
https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Swiss-HW-NOZ-MK10-04-Plated-Resistant-Nozzles/dp/B01BDL4NKM/ref=pd_bxgy_328_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=DDCZV1Y9Q7PXDZKTPBR9

I tried the All metal hotend, and couldn’t get it to work. For some reason the cold end wasn’t cold enough and clogging was continuous. I went back to the teflon tube and this nozzle and it’s been spectacular. Simple, and it just works.

might work? Not sure, i have the non-plus model would require you to do a little wiring :)

https://www.amazon.com/Ceramic-Cartridge-Printers-Extruder-Diameter/dp/B071GNXDFY/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_3?keywords=heater+cartridge+24v+1%2F4&qid=1555293918&s=gateway&sr=8-3-fkmrnull

Yes That is the one I got.

https://www.amazon.com/Anycubic-Thermistor-Wiring-Printer-Heatbed/dp/B01B41K7OM

It technically doesnt add anymore cables, just puts a brick between the fan and the board.

https://www.amazon.com/BINZET-Converter-Regulator-Voltage-Transformer/dp/B00J3MHUWM/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1538683488&sr=8-10&keywords=24v+to+12v

Replacement the original main board with a Melzi board.

https://www.amazon.ca/Geeetech-Melzi-V2-0-Controller-Board/dp/B06XHB7KDL/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1536321827&sr=8-2&keywords=Melzi

Ha! I broke mine 2 days ago. As far as I can tell, The bearing is a V623ZZ. 3mm ID x 12mm OD x 4mm Wide.

I found these on Amazon. They arrive tomorrow.

The thumb wheels the printer comes with vibrate loose real easy. I printed some new ones and put in nyloc nuts. I only have to level the bed every 10-15 prints.

Edit: Here's a guide for replacing them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E1HANLS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Had almost the same problem on my Monoprice clone - would stop feeding, changed brands, etc. until finally the filament had fused to the PTFE tube in the hot end. Required a complete tear down to find it. I figured as long as I'm in there, upgrade the extruder plate

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WVB6CYD/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and the thermistor

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B3ZYBTM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Follow the instructions - do not skip the "tight, then back off 1/4 turn. Heat up to 250 and then tighten the nozzle" steps.

Strip off the Kapton tape (if it hasn't already torn off) and use these instead

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B9KW1L1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1